I've watched this video 4, or, 5 times. My 2004 Cavalier needed taken care of (Lower Panels behind doors). Your video has been extremly helpful and the car is looking much better. Though more time would of produced a nicer out come, it is some of the best body work I've ever done. The one of you painting the blue fender is another one I've watched several times and will a few more, as the project is wrapped up. Have a nice morning!
Ayo BRAIN! Not a typo. If you put out a repair/paint manual like Haynes that covers how to paint, prep and fix all paint related issued on all materials, I'd swear buy it in a heartbeat. Your skills are top notch for sure!
That worked out pretty good. A couple extra steps that might be helpful would be to lightly tap the hole panel to knock off any rust scale on the inside and then tap down the panel a little bit around the holes to get a little thicker patch. Love your channel.
We just got a Corolla for our daughter that has a rust hole because the previous owner decided not to fix paint damage after a collision… I used for video using rattle cans in the past (2k clear) and it turned out amazing. I love you videos and I can’t wait to tackle this new project car.
Thanks for the info, really helped as I have a 1979 t2 bay vw that needs work and I can't afford it to be welded. I'll keep watching. Keep up the great work. Chris from the uk
At 1:10 I see some holes in the back panel that are covered with plastic caps. Maybe those can be used to access the inside surface and spray some rust converter. Also, instead of cardboard, a clean, plastic dustpan can be used... most people have those in the house I think.
Grest video. Great job. And......I am pleased that you mentioned after all your good work to apply some protective coating on the inside through a small hole on this job. I have sprayed rust converter on the inside before patching to kill any surface rust. And after the job is completely finished I use a product called Fisholine. Fish oil. It creaps every where and retards rust for decades if applied well.
Tx for the video. I’d like to add that I saw plastic plugs on the backside of the panel that you might be able to get access to get a vacuum with a small hose attached to get some rust out and possibly scrape some rust. Also then you can get some used motor oil and spread it around to help with slowing down rust
Watch alot and I'm a sub. Love your videos. I've not painted as much as you but I've restored so many antique tractors, oil well engines, Heavy Equipment, Cars, trucks etc. I know a lil bit. Why not use some reformer or acid on the rust you can't get to with a 360 nozzle to kill the rust? At 14 I helped my dad restore a 1949 chevy truck. Under the rear cab window is a seam that is rolled so you can't even get totally inside of it with a sand blaster, which is what we used. An old man told us to use Ospho. Had no idea what that was. My dad used Rust Mort I think it was called, 28 years ago, but thought the blaster was good enough. Was for about 4 years and we noticed rust. Now we used a syringe and Ospho yo get in there and kill it and we did. No rust now for decades. Even if you gotta drill a small hole or larger one and use a body plug and a small brush to seal edges of hole. Just a thought. I see alot of spot on repairs but ppl leave rust, small tiny pits with rust. I can tell you what happens in a few years, especially in a salty environment, if I can't get rid of all the rust however, it always comes back. Always. Acids get a bad name cause ppl don't use them properly, or use on bad paint. Gotta make sure whatever it is to read and do what is said. Ospho has to be rewetted, let sit for a few minutes and then clean with plenty of water and soap if u like. Then dry 100% with air or heat and then spray epoxy, or whatever primer you want. I have engines and autos from 2 decades ago and no rust still. I believe in Ospho and products like it. I also use products from eastwood that make a job like this easier to get rid of or convert rust for a worry free repair. Not a criticism, just a question for you.
Thank you for this having a hard time applying body filler to holes and scratches. Glazing putty is what I need. Love paint society! Keep up great work
Glazing putty is NOT for filling holes. It's used for leveling out sanding imperfections/swirls, and small dings. Don't use it to fill holes, it won't last.
Great video! All I can really add to this Is there is some plastic caps you could pop off on the underside ( 1:07 )and spray in some rust inhibitor it's not ideal but it would help seal it up and slow down the rust coming back through
Yes that's what I asked. I get its a quick repair and not a Lambo but rust has came back to bite me in the butt later and I always kill all the rust no matter how small or minor. In the rust belt if you leave any or bare metal your auto will fall apart. It's a battle.
clean surface then use the tape, then use body filler compound like in the this video? I am needing to do this on a new trailer with truck bed that has a few holes. Appreciate the info
Brilliant. Very helpful. I guess Waxoil would be a good thing to spray onto the back. I used some on an MG Midget in the 80’s and it is still going strong in UK weather.
@@flowergarden1426This entire repair is not much better than spray foam, all he did was Bondo over active rust. My idea of rust repair is to rescue the vehicle from rotting away to scrap. One year maybe a year and a half before it starts to blister from the trapped rust, faster in a wet zone. If you are not going to cut out the rust you need to access it and neutralize all the rusted area.
I now clean the area, cut out rust, dent in the edges, use JB weld to epoxy in a steel patch staying under the surface level then fill it with body filler, have used the fibre reinforced body filler to fill holes before as a stand alone filler with no issues and the repair lasted lifetime of car.
Replacing my rocker panels, and cab corners on my 2001 F150... I wondered about the metal reinforced Bondo compared to the regular stuff. I've got a couple holes outside of where the new rockers cover, and was debated about trying to weld in patches in those.
It's a real good idea to clean the area that you're working on first. there's all types of contaminants on that piece that you're working on. If you sand it without washing it good you're going to take those contaminants and spread them all over where you're working. So you use the same sandpaper again after you put on your fiberglass or dura glass and you sand it. And you're going to have all those little stains of acid from your fingers and tar from the road and just playing dirt. This is why you get a primer that bubbles or even your base coat that will bubble as It is drying. Glazing putty is usually the last putty that you put on after you smooth out your filler and sprayed it lightly and checked for high and low spots. Then sand it with 180 grit and knock down the high spots. The shiny metal ones and then make sure you send all of that paint you sprayed on to see the low spots. That'll keep you from having the wavy gravies. Then look for any pinholes sand the area and put down your glazing putty. This is just the way I do it. Not an old guy. I'm 73 years old. I started doing body work when I was 12 years old. I had a lot of good teachers. Every adult in the neighborhood would come by and suggest something else. Well thanks for listening to me. These are the old guys that never shut up and always give you the way to do it like they did 60 years ago. grit 😊 and then take and prim
@PaintSociety Hey! I have a hole like this in the lower quarter panel of a truck box. Very similar but i have access to the back side of the panel. Would it make sense to use one of these adhesive patches on the inside and leave that patch exposed or how would you cover the patch!? I unfortunately dont have access to weld and trying to avoid replacing the panel...
Greetings from Poland. To make it in accordance with the technology, you would need to spray epoxy on the sheet and then putty on it. It is worth it even if the putty is "water-resistant", i.e. without organic fillers. The use of UV lamps with each application does the trick. Technology with epoxy will extend the anti-corrosion resistance more than twice as compared to putty alone (e.g. Sickens). The basis is: epoxy and a UV lamp.
@@PaintSociety Thanks! I had a look at Gargae Noise. Very useful videos there. What about small rust bubbles that we all discover from time to time? Those which do not require welding, but still have to be treated well if we don't want them to show up again a year after? i really liked Garage Noise's videos, but most of his issues are a bit more dramatic than what I was asking about :) What I mean is how to handle small rust bubbles discovered in the paint, which not necessarily require any welding...
@@TorgeirFredriksen if you see a rust bubble it's most likely coming from the back side and to repair properly will be treated the same way as a rust through hole... The rust on the backside is always more advanced and worse than what you see from the outside.
When you started applying the filler over holes .. I started laughing... 😅😅😅😅 because someone recently I knew stripped a Rocker panel down... and when he was grinding.. he saw someone put a 2×4 underneath the body filler 😅😅😅😅😅😅
Great video tutorial!! This probably what I'll need to do to my e46 arch and sill of its not spread or gone too deep just bubbles to look at so far! 🤞🙏🙄🤦🏻😅😂 Cheers from London England 👍😎🏴
My concern with doing rust repair is addressing the inside of an enclosed area. Have you ever injected a rust converter into the area prior to sealing the outside?
I find, after a thorough grinding session with very coarse grit, drilling several 1/8-3/16 locking holes around the periphery of the hole in solid metal, then peening the metal with the locking holes slightly concave around the big hole is very effective, if not the most effective, means of prep for body filler. Grinding a feather edge around the hole does work, but for optimum strength of the patch, a minimum thickness of filler (≈1/8 inch) should be maintained and as coarse a grit grind on the periphery surface as possible. In painting parlance, this is known as "tooth" and lock holes will secure the feather edges much better than simple toothing.
It looks like there are a couple of plastic plugs on the inside of the fender. I'd suggest that it would have been best to remove these plugs, rinse out the inside of the fender with water to remove as much dirt as possible, then use compressed air and a heat gun to dry the inside of the fender thoroughly. Once dry, you could spray a rust preventative/undercoating inside the fender, and once that is dry, then proceed with the repairs you described. As you said, repairing rust holes with Bondo is never going to be a permanent repair, but I think you greatly decrease the chance of the Bondo patches rusting out by doing whatever can be done to clean and protect the inside of the fender. Thank you for all of your videos. I really enjoy them and I've learned a lot from you.
Man, I thoroughly enjoyed that tutorial. Gonna watch it again, but this time with my pen and paper to make my grocery list! Gotta get this truck through Maryland Inspection in a few days and that’s the last item on my list and I’m GOLDEN! Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video! 💯💯💯💯💯
Great lesson on home /garage body work, I’m doing a old Kombi slowly with that metal filler,it’s great when carnt weld Any lessons on two tone painting Thanks again Roy from Australia
Brian I had a similar situation like this and the rust bubbled back through in 2 years. What is a product that is a true rust encapsulator that rust won't be able to push back through? Fiberglass resin? Do you have to coat each side of the panel to truely encapsulate the rust. i know eastwood has a product but it is 1K and I don't trust anything that is a 1k for long term durability. Thanks.
Use Fluid Film on the inside of the panel. It will penetrate the rust, eliminate, and seal out moisture. Its a great product for stopping rust. Otherwise the panel will continue rusting from the inside out.
The back of the quarter panel should have a 1 inch hole with a rubber 'plug'. I removed the plug and sprayed the inside of the outer metal with Eastwood rust encapsulater. It comes with a flexible tube allowing you to coat the entire inside. Other comments below seem to have done the same with different products.
I've watched this video 4, or, 5 times. My 2004 Cavalier needed taken care of (Lower Panels behind doors). Your video has been extremly helpful and the car is looking much better. Though more time would of produced a nicer out come, it is some of the best body work I've ever done. The one of you painting the blue fender is another one I've watched several times and will a few more, as the project is wrapped up. Have a nice morning!
Ayo BRAIN! Not a typo. If you put out a repair/paint manual like Haynes that covers how to paint, prep and fix all paint related issued on all materials, I'd swear buy it in a heartbeat. Your skills are top notch for sure!
Best autobody repair videos on youtube right here
You are the Best teacher. Regards from Poland
That worked out pretty good. A couple extra steps that might be helpful would be to lightly tap the hole panel to knock off any rust scale on the inside and then tap down the panel a little bit around the holes to get a little thicker patch. Love your channel.
Great ideas! Thanks for watching
And use tiger hair glass on first coat
We just got a Corolla for our daughter that has a rust hole because the previous owner decided not to fix paint damage after a collision… I used for video using rattle cans in the past (2k clear) and it turned out amazing. I love you videos and I can’t wait to tackle this new project car.
I like mixing filler on sheet metal, when I’m done I clean it off with acetone or thinner and reuse the sheet metal for a long time.
Auto Body cock works good for filling small holes like that too in it seals well
I use a mirror
I use a large metal putty spreader to mix on
I just usually sand it down with 80. Been using my pan for a long and was passed down by my dad and he had it for a while
Great idea. Just about to start minor body work for the first time
Thanks for the info, really helped as I have a 1979 t2 bay vw that needs work and I can't afford it to be welded.
I'll keep watching. Keep up the great work. Chris from the uk
Guys like this go straight to heaven!
At 1:10 I see some holes in the back panel that are covered with plastic caps. Maybe those can be used to access the inside surface and spray some rust converter. Also, instead of cardboard, a clean, plastic dustpan can be used... most people have those in the house I think.
Grest video. Great job. And......I am pleased that you mentioned after all your good work to apply some protective coating on the inside through a small hole on this job. I have sprayed rust converter on the inside before patching to kill any surface rust. And after the job is completely finished I use a product called Fisholine. Fish oil. It creaps every where and retards rust for decades if applied well.
Tx for the video. I’d like to add that I saw plastic plugs on the backside of the panel that you might be able to get access to get a vacuum with a small hose attached to get some rust out and possibly scrape some rust. Also then you can get some used motor oil and spread it around to help with slowing down rust
Watch alot and I'm a sub. Love your videos. I've not painted as much as you but I've restored so many antique tractors, oil well engines, Heavy Equipment, Cars, trucks etc. I know a lil bit. Why not use some reformer or acid on the rust you can't get to with a 360 nozzle to kill the rust? At 14 I helped my dad restore a 1949 chevy truck. Under the rear cab window is a seam that is rolled so you can't even get totally inside of it with a sand blaster, which is what we used. An old man told us to use Ospho. Had no idea what that was. My dad used Rust Mort I think it was called, 28 years ago, but thought the blaster was good enough. Was for about 4 years and we noticed rust. Now we used a syringe and Ospho yo get in there and kill it and we did. No rust now for decades. Even if you gotta drill a small hole or larger one and use a body plug and a small brush to seal edges of hole. Just a thought. I see alot of spot on repairs but ppl leave rust, small tiny pits with rust. I can tell you what happens in a few years, especially in a salty environment, if I can't get rid of all the rust however, it always comes back. Always. Acids get a bad name cause ppl don't use them properly, or use on bad paint. Gotta make sure whatever it is to read and do what is said. Ospho has to be rewetted, let sit for a few minutes and then clean with plenty of water and soap if u like. Then dry 100% with air or heat and then spray epoxy, or whatever primer you want. I have engines and autos from 2 decades ago and no rust still. I believe in Ospho and products like it. I also use products from eastwood that make a job like this easier to get rid of or convert rust for a worry free repair. Not a criticism, just a question for you.
Awesome. Gonna try that this weekend on my rear panel! Looked easy enough.
Thank you for this having a hard time applying body filler to holes and scratches. Glazing putty is what I need. Love paint society! Keep up great work
Glazing putty is NOT for filling holes. It's used for leveling out sanding imperfections/swirls, and small dings.
Don't use it to fill holes, it won't last.
Great tutorial. Always been thinking of trying some minor body repair. Thanks.
Great video! All I can really add to this Is there is some plastic caps you could pop off on the underside ( 1:07 )and spray in some rust inhibitor it's not ideal but it would help seal it up and slow down the rust coming back through
Yes that's what I asked. I get its a quick repair and not a Lambo but rust has came back to bite me in the butt later and I always kill all the rust no matter how small or minor. In the rust belt if you leave any or bare metal your auto will fall apart. It's a battle.
You don't need to put self itch primer on bare metal?
Great video showing how to DIY that rust away!! Thats the way I learned when working with my dad flipping cars.
Aluminum HVAC tape, saves alot of effort and last a verry long time as a backer.
Tried your tip and it worked well! I just had to make sure the surface was free of grease and it stuck great.. thanks for sharing
clean surface then use the tape, then use body filler compound like in the this video? I am needing to do this on a new trailer with truck bed that has a few holes. Appreciate the info
Silly question maybe, but can this tape be used on the outside?
Need a repair with no access to the back as box section repair.
Thanks
Don't mix aluminum and other dissimilar metals.
Good idea!
I like your content where it is just DIY stuff in the home garage. Thanks for posting. 👍
Brilliant. Very helpful. I guess Waxoil would be a good thing to spray onto the back. I used some on an MG Midget in the 80’s and it is still going strong in UK weather.
I use low expansion spray foam for backing ..as well fills voids so water can't penetrate in...works great .cheers
i can only disagree with you. Those foams are great hard sponges that soak up water and your work is toast.
@@ALexMcDunnyI’d be mad if I bought a car and they repaired it with spray foam, I have a conscience.
@@flowergarden1426This entire repair is not much better than spray foam, all he did was Bondo over active rust. My idea of rust repair is to rescue the vehicle from rotting away to scrap. One year maybe a year and a half before it starts to blister from the trapped rust, faster in a wet zone. If you are not going to cut out the rust you need to access it and neutralize all the rusted area.
I find a disposable plastic dinner plate is ideal for mixing the bondo.
Cheap and clean
Awesome work. Love the channel.
I now clean the area, cut out rust, dent in the edges, use JB weld to epoxy in a steel patch staying under the surface level then fill it with body filler, have used the fibre reinforced body filler to fill holes before as a stand alone filler with no issues and the repair lasted lifetime of car.
perfect timing I'm starting small repairs at home on a '96 Silverado Light Stellar Blue Metallic
You did awesome job.
Good video, love this channel, Im self taught DIY, many guys don't have tools to do repairs, love this channel, thumbs up from KaapStaad. Salutas
I've had excellent results w/ similar rust. Pound the rust hole in, use por 15 & apply in hole w a acid brush & finish w duraglas. Worked very well
Or even panel adhesive. it's sandable and rust won't get behind it.
Love you new intro ! Still rocking the merch ! I’m also painting full time at my work place now . Thanks to you and the paint society !!
Awesome !!
Thank you so much Brian! I'm learning alot from your videos!!
You the best bro thanks alot this really help me👍👍👍👍
Thankyou very much from Scotland :-)
Well done, Thank you.
Replacing my rocker panels, and cab corners on my 2001 F150... I wondered about the metal reinforced Bondo compared to the regular stuff. I've got a couple holes outside of where the new rockers cover, and was debated about trying to weld in patches in those.
Learning a bit from every video. What sanding grit was used to get to bare metal? Thank you.
I believe he said 80, you can go even coarser like 40 if you have it, quicker and better adhesion.
GOOD JOB LOTS OF VALUABLE INFO; THANK,S BRIAN
It's a real good idea to clean the area that you're working on first. there's all types of contaminants on that piece that you're working on. If you sand it without washing it good you're going to take those contaminants and spread them all over where you're working. So you use the same sandpaper again after you put on your fiberglass or dura glass and you sand it. And you're going to have all those little stains of acid from your fingers and tar from the road and just playing dirt. This is why you get a primer that bubbles or even your base coat that will bubble as It is drying. Glazing putty is usually the last putty that you put on after you smooth out your filler and sprayed it lightly and checked for high and low spots. Then sand it with 180 grit and knock down the high spots. The shiny metal ones and then make sure you send all of that paint you sprayed on to see the low spots. That'll keep you from having the wavy gravies. Then look for any pinholes sand the area and put down your glazing putty. This is just the way I do it. Not an old guy. I'm 73 years old. I started doing body work when I was 12 years old. I had a lot of good teachers. Every adult in the neighborhood would come by and suggest something else. Well thanks for listening to me. These are the old guys that never shut up and always give you the way to do it like they did 60 years ago.
grit
😊
and then take and prim
Great tutorial video 🤝🏽
This video brought me back to my roots. Loved the video just subscribed 👍
I just used this product as well!
Works wonderful!
This has been the best product I’ve found, much like Devcon filler used for aerodynamic fairing on aircraft. I love this stuff for solid repairs.
Can I use this bondo to fill small nicks and dents or do I need another filler??
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO IT IS MUCH APPRECIATED!
Thank you
@PaintSociety Hey! I have a hole like this in the lower quarter panel of a truck box. Very similar but i have access to the back side of the panel. Would it make sense to use one of these adhesive patches on the inside and leave that patch exposed or how would you cover the patch!? I unfortunately dont have access to weld and trying to avoid replacing the panel...
Did a beautiful job!
asome vid,well done dude,thanks alot
Good job sharing
Best will in the world this is not a repair it's a disguise!!!!!!
Very good
I don't know where this channel has been ALL my life! Subscribed! Thank you!
Thank you good job.lot's to learn
ciming from a boat back ground, on my farm truck i used fiberglass with epoxy resin to create a backer for larger holes. then used jb weld then filler
Greetings from Poland. To make it in accordance with the technology, you would need to spray epoxy on the sheet and then putty on it. It is worth it even if the putty is "water-resistant", i.e. without organic fillers. The use of UV lamps with each application does the trick. Technology with epoxy will extend the anti-corrosion resistance more than twice as compared to putty alone (e.g. Sickens). The basis is: epoxy and a UV lamp.
Slick thanks for your time 🙂
Love your channel!!
Knew you was a body man when you started wiping the mud on! Thanks for posting!
I have a rust hole the exact size and shape of my rocker panel… I’m gonna give it a shot
This is really helpful thank you. I have done this a few times but your tips will make it much better next time.
Kinda disappointed bondo doesn't sell that metal reinforced fillers in a 55 gallon drum for the folks here in the salt belt.
Great Video.
Fantastic! Thanks
Would be great if you could explain how to properly fix a rusted spot :) Just like a good body shop would do it.
For that check out garage noise. He has a few good videos currently on that.
@@PaintSociety Thanks! I had a look at Gargae Noise. Very useful videos there. What about small rust bubbles that we all discover from time to time? Those which do not require welding, but still have to be treated well if we don't want them to show up again a year after? i really liked Garage Noise's videos, but most of his issues are a bit more dramatic than what I was asking about :) What I mean is how to handle small rust bubbles discovered in the paint, which not necessarily require any welding...
@@TorgeirFredriksen if you see a rust bubble it's most likely coming from the back side and to repair properly will be treated the same way as a rust through hole... The rust on the backside is always more advanced and worse than what you see from the outside.
Why didnt he show how the guy rolled the mesh and how he placed it behind the hole ?
Awesome video, thanks.
When you started applying the filler over holes .. I started laughing... 😅😅😅😅 because someone recently I knew stripped a Rocker panel down... and when he was grinding.. he saw someone put a 2×4 underneath the body filler 😅😅😅😅😅😅
Thanks buddy!!
Very nice demo,
Whats the advantage of the metal strand over the fiberglass reinforced filler? I would think the metal fibers would be more likely to rust over time
It's aluminum filled filler, so it doesn't rust
In addition it is better for those instances when you may need to attach hardware, or drill/tap. Keep fiberglass for the Corvette.
I’m in South Florida… can I low key come learn from you please?
😩😳
Great video. Thx for making this vid.
Doing a repair like that might work in Florida but up here in the Midwest it would only last about 30 days and it would be bubbling
Great video tutorial!! This probably what I'll need to do to my e46 arch and sill of its not spread or gone too deep just bubbles to look at so far! 🤞🙏🙄🤦🏻😅😂
Cheers from London England 👍😎🏴
Nice job 👌
Nice job
How long did it take to complete the project? The weather here is getting colder. Mid 50’s. Is it too cold now to do this?
My concern with doing rust repair is addressing the inside of an enclosed area. Have you ever injected a rust converter into the area prior to sealing the outside?
That was awesome...
Up here in Wisconsin you'd be able to fit a baby in the hole this is in that area on those trucks.
Thank you awesome tips
I find, after a thorough grinding session with very coarse grit, drilling several 1/8-3/16 locking holes around the periphery of the hole in solid metal, then peening the metal with the locking holes slightly concave around the big hole is very effective, if not the most effective, means of prep for body filler. Grinding a feather edge around the hole does work, but for optimum strength of the patch, a minimum thickness of filler (≈1/8 inch) should be maintained and as coarse a grit grind on the periphery surface as possible. In painting parlance, this is known as "tooth" and lock holes will secure the feather edges much better than simple toothing.
Great video!! Thanks
Very nice video. Can this same process be done if I wanted to shave my radio antenna on my fender or the hood washer squirters?
Thanks, good jobs
Can you use spray foam as a backer?
It looks like there are a couple of plastic plugs on the inside of the fender. I'd suggest that it would have been best to remove these plugs, rinse out the inside of the fender with water to remove as much dirt as possible, then use compressed air and a heat gun to dry the inside of the fender thoroughly. Once dry, you could spray a rust preventative/undercoating inside the fender, and once that is dry, then proceed with the repairs you described. As you said, repairing rust holes with Bondo is never going to be a permanent repair, but I think you greatly decrease the chance of the Bondo patches rusting out by doing whatever can be done to clean and protect the inside of the fender.
Thank you for all of your videos. I really enjoy them and I've learned a lot from you.
Stop being so picky he's just doing an example on how to fix a hole the quick and easy way
Man, I thoroughly enjoyed that tutorial. Gonna watch it again, but this time with my pen and paper to make my grocery list!
Gotta get this truck through Maryland Inspection in a few days and that’s the last item on my list and I’m GOLDEN! Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video! 💯💯💯💯💯
Hahahahah... 9:43 Beautiful ! keep it cheap as possible, most of our tool came from the garbage... lmmfao
Awesome man
Great lesson on home /garage body work, I’m doing a old Kombi slowly with that metal filler,it’s great when carnt weld
Any lessons on two tone painting
Thanks again
Roy from Australia
I am curious about using JB Weld or something similar on rusty pitted areas that are under trim.
What was added to the glazing putty at 9:55?
What’s the purpose of a glazing putty? Would it be ok to just spray the bondo once it dries with a primer?
Full sending never lifting 😏 🤙 mobbin deep 🙌 knowledge is power 🔋
thanks
What were the items that was not listed like the puddy and the hardener what are they called
Brian I had a similar situation like this and the rust bubbled back through in 2 years. What is a product that is a true rust encapsulator that rust won't be able to push back through? Fiberglass resin? Do you have to coat each side of the panel to truely encapsulate the rust. i know eastwood has a product but it is 1K and I don't trust anything that is a 1k for long term durability. Thanks.
Use Fluid Film on the inside of the panel. It will penetrate the rust, eliminate, and seal out moisture. Its a great product for stopping rust. Otherwise the panel will continue rusting from the inside out.
The back of the quarter panel should have a 1 inch hole with a rubber 'plug'. I removed the plug and sprayed the inside of the outer metal with Eastwood rust encapsulater. It comes with a flexible tube allowing you to coat the entire inside. Other comments below seem to have done the same with different products.
awesome video ! 😉
Where in South Florida your shop located?
Good stuff
that.s bad ass sander i need to get one of them