@@LakesideAutobodyI know nothing but I do have a question just seen different tuber show me for first time a flange tool. Would you consider using a overlay versus a butt splice for the old to new sheet metal.
@@JohnnyAtlas You can used a flange tool if you prefer but in a high volume body shop there's really no time to mess with it. Cut the rust out, cut a patch, weld, knock it down, fill. That's it - every time - every hole. You can't always use the flange tool - wheel well lips, rockers, sharp bodylines and corners, around tail lights.... so the thinking is why use it anywhere - if a simple lap joint works. Here's a good video that can clear things up a bit - ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html
These videos are brilliant. I'm rebuilding my Dodge Dakota. Got all the mechanical stuff done, now it's time to rebuild the body. I got a box from the dump that's in better shape than mine, but it still needs wheel arches and rockers, and at least one cab corner. I have all the new patch panels. Just need to learn to weld first, ha ha. These videos give me hope.
Got over 350K miles out of my old 1990 Bonneville before rust did it in. Cool to see rust fixed now and then. Wish I had done that with mine in the past before it got too bad.
I sure enjoy watching a real Pro work. I've gained an incredible amount of knowledge from watching your videos. So much so that I tackled my son's rust bucket '02 Sierra project and it actually came out ok! It's a Michigan truck and the rust was rusted. I can't thank you enough for creating and posting these videos! 💯💪🤙
Thanks Doug - I love hearing stories like that - awesome 👍 Each job you do, you get better so... If that looked decent just think how they'll look down the road. Keep me posted on future projects my friend 😊
@Lakeside Autobody , I think I had to use 18 ga on the truck, it was what ALRO steel had available at the time. It was a bit stiff 🤓 Thank you for the response
I've seen a lot of welding near explosives in body shops I've worked in - surprisingly never even a fire. Guys smoked cigarettes while spraying primer, cut off bumpers with a tank next to it, etc. How about muffler shops - they have to be doing this all the time 😊
A get it done kind of guy! Im going to use your techniques when repairing rust on my 84 ford bronco, i have to use patch panels in the rear quarters because they no longer produce the entire quarter panel. Thanks for the videos!!
I have watched several of your videos and though I’m experienced doing rust repair in my home garage on my projects, especially on trucks, I still pick up new ideas and techniques from you. Also like some of your dent removal techniques. One thing I started doing after watching your videos is using a cheese grader. I’ll keep watching and learning!
I’m going to try teaching myself how to do so extensive rust repair on an old minivan. I’ll probably end up buying some premade pieces but some will be freehand. Thanks for posting these vids and giving us a reference to turn to in a jam.
@@LakesideAutobody it was a 1994 Harley heritage my son rides it now , my other son rides my 1999 standard bat wing , both bikes have 130 k miles on them I don't ride any more legs' are to week and I'm 70 years old , but I still restore cars and trucks. thanks for asking.
Jerry I had to watch this again I enjoyed it so much. Question, are we going to see the finished F-150 project? Finish paint, etc. I bet it looks like new. Take care.
I Like your videos you do the same Type of work as my Late Brother did he made Bench shears from 1/2 inch steel 18inch Long It made the process so much easier They was great for 1/8 sheets keep up the good work ps am from the UK 🇬🇧 AGE 62
All these quarter-panel/arch/inner arch issues come from above - seals that leak around the screens/boots/etc etc & let water down inside the panels. Always. Keep an eye on your seals.. Stuff like this I no longer bother making up panels - I toddle along to a scrapyard & chop a better section out of one of their vehicles, weld that better section onto the car I am repairing. Cut your "donor" panel good & big - trim it to fit when you get home. Just glancing at the chassis, that vehicle is toast anyway unless the entire chassis gets a treatment pretty swiftly. I have yet to come across any proprietary treatment that works, so I made my own that does. All that aside - excellent instructional video LSA - as per usual. Practical, to the point & real-world stuff.
My "last" comment would be, when done, drown the whole repair in epoxy 2k primer - if you don't, it will rust again in no time. I have found no substitute for epoxy 2k primer. Every other form of primer is a waste of time & energy. It will rust again in jig time. Plus, use flux-core. Flux core works better for bodywork. It just does.
Just when I think I can't learn anything more from you- -you go ahead and educate me more and more and more I learn and just get dumbfounded amazed with slackjaw. 😮
So, my truck is doing the same thing living in salt-road Ohio. But I can't do that kind of metal work. Haven't quite figured out what to do yet. Not sure if it's inappropriate for me to ask about how much (roughly) it costs to have a body technician do a job like that. But either way, that's some really good work.
@@charlesbarr3561 Thanks Charles. Odds are you probably won't find anyone to do it. They'd probably suggest a new bed or box side at least. A box side is probably around $700 so I'm thinkin' a ballpark estimate might be $2000 to have someone replace the box side. Depends a lot on the individual shop. It's very expensive today because of cost of paint, materials, labor, etc. Hope that helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody that's exactly what I was thinking. I don't think any of the body shops I know would pick up a job like that. I should probably start looking for a bed side, the bed itself has been discontinued for a while. I appreciate the honest response. Can't wait to watch the next video. 👍
Great work on fabrication of that rusted section of bedside. Will you be doing the other rusted spots as well. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the work done and the finished product.
This is great stuff. In your other videos - you are very right about lapping patches instead of butt joints - especially for amateurs like me. On the body filler - my bondo starts to set in less than 2 minutes - before I can really get it how I like it. What products or tips do you suggest to get time for spreading?
Use less and less hardener until you get it to harden when you want. After a while you'll be able to hurry the hardening or slow it down depending on your needs. That's it. Oh... when it's hot out, it's going to harden fast --- cold = slow :)
@mattwarrensocal - is lap joints better than butt joins? Isn't a lap joint a prime spot for moisture to penetrate (and thus be a moisture- trap) and promote the same rust issues?
MAN !!!!!! WHER ARE YOU LOCATED!!!! I have all my trucks go 250k miles,sell them n watch them go another 150k’s !! All Chevys !! I had Fords ! Surface rust,Brakes at 60k so I backed away ! GREAT VIDEOS !!
Thanks Terry. I'm in upper Michigan but I just flip cars and trucks. Rust bucket trucks and clean title repairable vehicles. Glad you enjoyed the video my friend :)
great job, hope you know they do make inner and outer patch panels for them trucks around 50 bucks a piece well worth saving time in making your own especially the inner.
Hi Jerry, Friday comes around, and so do your videos :) Looks awesome. What gauge of metal are you using? Is it a special metal? I've heard of satin coated, whats so special about it. Wonder if you could or have a video, about the sheet metal requirements? Have a great weekend. You definitely earned it!
It's 20 gauge (.030") nothing special - CR sheet I think A1008 from Alro Steel in Grayling, MI. I'll write that down - good idea for a video my friend. You have a good weekend too 😊
satin or also galvanneal are a subtype of galvanized steel that has a...satin appearance among other characteristics. zinc-aluminium-other components coating over steel to sacrifice itself(galvanic corrosion) first before the iron. These coatings don't like heat from welding (arc or flame will burn the zinc alloy) , which is why automakers who use a lot more of it prescribe MIG Brazing, adhesive spot welding and adhesives. Ultra High Tensile Strength Steels also don't like heat from welding.
@@rolfbjorn9937does it give off poison gases when you weld, like normal galvanised steel ? Our chaps used to grind it back to bare metal in the weld area, and wear a mask and use forced ventilation
Wow, that was quite a rusty box side. I had one of those trucks in the past, I did not know there was a piece of foam at the top of the arch. Great repair Jerry, maybe you will keep going on that truck ?
Looks like this truck could be a whole mini-series ! I looked a ford truck since it had great towing capacity, but like this one, the wheel arches were rusting out again and the frame had two holes in it, wasn't even 10 years old and we have salt, but not like Michigan or Upstate NY.
I did this on my pickup but it was worse so i built a wheelhouse out of 16 gauge and then I finished with parts of a hood. It took me a very long time and I'm wondering how long did you spend on this project?
Generally a patch like this takes about 4 hours. If you started at 8am you should have the thing in primer before lunch. Go to lunch, come back and block sand it. That's how it went working in a body shop many times. Feather fill and lacquer primer with both dry nicely while your at lunch about an hour @ 70 degrees
They cut pretty thick stuff - I commonly cut 20 gauge (.035") and 22 gauge (.030") It'll gut thicker too - It's from HF so I think the specs are on the site :)
Have you got any videos recommending how to handle rusted out windshield frames? My 2000 Mustang has some amount of rust beneath the windshield (havent removed it yet, is an absolute hassle, but used a 9 gauge guitar string to remove the windshield on my subaru just fine, havent tried it yet on the Mustang), and on my Subaru, in the wall that goes from the windshield flange up to the roof, theres an area where it has rusted all the way through. Having watched a lot of your vids over the last couple years, I feel like I can piece together a solution, just wasnt sure if there was a more definitive solution.
You can absolutely fix all of that - had a Ranger that rusted through the windshield and down the fire wall. The metal cowl (grille) had to be cut out, the repair done and painted inside the air duct/ cowl area, then the grille part welded back in and mudded up. It took some time but it can be fixed. You can do it how ever you can do it - it that makes sense :)
Does no one supply decent rust protection coatings ? Over in the UK cars dont seem to rust like they used to, although one brand of pick up truck rotted out its chassis rails in a few years, the company bought them all back and cut them in half then sent them for scrap ,yet a few garages, old school made jigs and repaired the chassis frames and made them stronger
To me all welding helmets are very similar - even the cheap harbor freight one works great. YesWelder sent this one out for me to try it so... It works well and has the 180 view that darkens also. Here's one similar (mine's discontinued) ruclips.net/video/1XIibD2iAnc/видео.html Thanks for you kind words too Kevin 😊
It's lap welded - here's that video ruclips.net/video/Jk29avqnVXI/видео.html Here's a vid comparing lap and butt - ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html The welder was gas - here's a vid on the exact welder - ruclips.net/video/jZikIeH-SWQ/видео.html
Very well done! Especially having the correct tools. The ONLY thing I would have done is undercoat the filler tube. I know, because I had one rust on my 97 Camry. That's sad 63,000 miles & all that rust. I'd STILL have my 97 if it wasnt for rust. 🙄 👍
This is a good example of horses for courses. It's a rough and ready approach, but given the application it's perfectly passable and if I was paying for this kind of job on this kind of vehicle I'd be absolutely hoping for this approach. Not everything needs to be Concourse
👍 Don't be fooled by these concourse guys either - they are sneaking in the filler one way or the other. Whether it is thick thick primer or body filler it's filler. I'd rather have filler than thick primer any day too. I think they're sneaking in a little filler here and there too - just like the factories do :)
Hi there. Happy Wednesday to ya. IF you feel like answering an unrelated question, I've got one for ya- I have an old super surface rusty hood that I am going to practice on. It seems though that the metal has become thin because of the ridiculous amount of flex in it. Can filler flex like that? It will definitely need some areas knocked down and filled, and skim coated. Will all that material flex with the metal? -DIO
It was sort of common that old large hoods flexed quite a bit. If it's just flexing that's fine. If it is "popping" in and out you'll have to address that. One way to fix it is this - ruclips.net/video/K5MVVnsERqc/видео.html
Unfortunately, I just make YT videos. I flip clean title, repairable vehicles for collision videos and rust repair is done on family vehicles. Even with doing close family member rust buckets, I'm booked for months out! Thanks for asking though MP800 :)
I've been a body man for years, started when I was kid, I was an apprentice for many years ! I fully understand what he is doing! The everyday person couldn't do it! My point is, by the time you get the patch panels, do all the cutting, weilding, grinding & the materials for the plastic work and put in primer! You have spent more then what a used bed would be! Your not even into the cost of those materials! You done spent more then the cost of buying a used bed and painting it!
I've never had a boss and if I did ide tell him do himself, you see what you don't understand is " a good body man don't need a boss, a boss needs the bodyman!!!!
Hey Jerry what do you think about primer sealer over fill primer I saw a can of automotive primer sealer and it said to spray over last primer coat before painting 🤷♂️
Sealer can be very helpful. Some guys like to use it some don't. It get everything one color, seal the body work, help with covering any very small imperfections, prime any tiny bare metal spots that were missed. :)
The sheet metal is 20 gauge (.035"). The black spray was rubberized undercoating. See this video of a decent method to prevent future rust - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
I'm about to try welding a patch panel for the first time. What gauge sheet metal do you recommend using for around the wheel well area and the side sill?
I only use the ARCCAPTAIN now - it welds really nice and is super user friendly. Has a nice big interface with large letters and number for older eyes 😊 They both weld very similar - I've been pretty impressed with the import welders. Getting parts may be a different story if you ever need them 🥴
I have one right now and I'm sure the body will last a very long time but one thing to remember is that the underbody, frame, fuel lines, brake lines, brackets, mounts, etc. are all steel and will rust so.... They are collision repairable :)
That would be the correct way to do the panel replacement. Same as hammer and dolly out dents, control warping but when your using 3/8” or more body filler it really doesn’t matter.
Thanks for doing these and showing the actual work being done in real time..
You're welcome Edward - have a good weekend :)
Good JOB....👌🏻👌🏻
You think he did this in 20 minutes?
I'm so old I can remember when we had actual body shops in this country
Yep - I think rust repair was common back then. Not now though :(
Hey Jerry, I really enjoy and appreciate you sharing your skills. Saving another Michigan rust bucket. Looking forward to part two. Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words Paul - glad you enjoyed it 😊
Rust repair...something I get stuck with quite a lot. So good to see another video on the subject👍
I appreciate your + comments all the time BBG - have a nice weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobodyI know nothing but I do have a question just seen different tuber show me for first time a flange tool. Would you consider using a overlay versus a butt splice for the old to new sheet metal.
@@JohnnyAtlas You can used a flange tool if you prefer but in a high volume body shop there's really no time to mess with it. Cut the rust out, cut a patch, weld, knock it down, fill. That's it - every time - every hole. You can't always use the flange tool - wheel well lips, rockers, sharp bodylines and corners, around tail lights.... so the thinking is why use it anywhere - if a simple lap joint works. Here's a good video that can clear things up a bit - ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody you are a great teacher thanks for the link totally understand why now.
@@JohnnyAtlas You're welcome - glad it helped. Thanks for the kind words :)
These videos are brilliant. I'm rebuilding my Dodge Dakota. Got all the mechanical stuff done, now it's time to rebuild the body. I got a box from the dump that's in better shape than mine, but it still needs wheel arches and rockers, and at least one cab corner. I have all the new patch panels. Just need to learn to weld first, ha ha. These videos give me hope.
You can do this my friend - just ask a bunch of ?s - any time. I get to them 1-2 times a day :)
rebuilding my Dakota
The magic hands of an expert with years of experience. This is a genius at work.
Thanks for the kind words Bruce :)
You are the master Jerry - of body work...and film making! SO helpful, thank you!
Thanks CA - I appreciate your support - always good to hear from you my friend :)
Got over 350K miles out of my old 1990 Bonneville before rust did it in. Cool to see rust fixed now and then. Wish I had done that with mine in the past before it got too bad.
Thank you. I followed your videos exclusively to repair a corner of the passenger door on my 2008 Highlander. Now it’ll pass inspection here in Pa. 😊
Awesome - love to hear things like that :)
Nice to see you do a rust repair after a while jerry. Look forward to part 2
Thanks SS - glad you enjoy them. Have a good weekend :)
Awesome job! It’s nice to see someone still patchin’ em up.
Not too much of that going on in shops today for sure :)
We use to make our own patches all the time. The patch panels you buy are so expensive now and don't fit anyway. Good tin smithing
👍✌😊
I sure enjoy watching a real Pro work. I've gained an incredible amount of knowledge from watching your videos. So much so that I tackled my son's rust bucket '02 Sierra project and it actually came out ok! It's a Michigan truck and the rust was rusted. I can't thank you enough for creating and posting these videos! 💯💪🤙
Thanks Doug - I love hearing stories like that - awesome 👍 Each job you do, you get better so... If that looked decent just think how they'll look down the road. Keep me posted on future projects my friend 😊
@Lakeside Autobody , also curious what gauge sheet metal you used on this repair? Thx!
@@dwreed63 20 gauge (~.035") You can use 22 gauge too (~.030")
@Lakeside Autobody , I think I had to use 18 ga on the truck, it was what ALRO steel had available at the time. It was a bit stiff 🤓
Thank you for the response
@@dwreed63 You can rest easy knowing it'll last longer 😊
Amazing work , a true craftsman. Thank you for sharing your secrets to us DIY folks who like to do things for ourselves
Glad you enjoyed it ODD - thanks for watching :)
This customer really loves his truck
I never think it was possible to weld next to a gaz tank. I always remove it. You are more brave than I.
I've seen a lot of welding near explosives in body shops I've worked in - surprisingly never even a fire. Guys smoked cigarettes while spraying primer, cut off bumpers with a tank next to it, etc. How about muffler shops - they have to be doing this all the time 😊
Awesome work. I bet you never thought this many people would want to watch you do bodywork. :) But we do!
I appreciate you kind comments all the time DIO - have a good weekend my friend :)
Great job fitting your own patch in. You make it look simple. I better start saving my Wheaties Boxes
Thanks RG - always good to hear your + comments :)
Man those side cut plyers are Awesome 😃
A get it done kind of guy! Im going to use your techniques when repairing rust on my 84 ford bronco, i have to use patch panels in the rear quarters because they no longer produce the entire quarter panel. Thanks for the videos!!
You're welcome my friend - have a great weekend 👍⚾😊
I have watched several of your videos and though I’m experienced doing rust repair in my home garage on my projects, especially on trucks, I still pick up new ideas and techniques from you. Also like some of your dent removal techniques. One thing I started doing after watching your videos is using a cheese grader. I’ll keep watching and learning!
The cheese grater can really make a difference in speed and getting the dent straight. Thanks for watching Randy - enjoy the rest of the week :)
Good video, I keep singing in my head "love hurts" watching it
i recently realized this may save me thousands...thank you!
You're welcome my friend - enjoy the weekend :)
That was very good job man , please make more videos like those
I'll keep them coming CL - have a good weekend :)
Great video. Enjoyable watch.
Thanks C636 - enjoy the rest of the week :)
I’m going to try teaching myself how to do so extensive rust repair on an old minivan. I’ll probably end up buying some premade pieces but some will be freehand. Thanks for posting these vids and giving us a reference to turn to in a jam.
That's great to hear. Ask ?s if needed. Thanks for watching and you're welcome 👍😊🏈
Big Jerry got some of the best body work training videos on youtube . From a Pro Tech🙏🙏💪💪💪
Thanks AEW1 - that's nice to hear coming from someone who works in the field. I really appreciate the support 👍😊
now that's a craftsmen a lost art , I enjoyed this very much sir respect for your talent .
Thanks Old Biker - what's your favorite road bike?
@@LakesideAutobody it was a 1994 Harley heritage my son rides it now , my other son rides my 1999 standard bat wing , both bikes have 130 k miles on them I don't ride any more legs' are to week and I'm 70 years old , but I still restore cars and trucks. thanks for asking.
@@oldbiker9739 I love to hear peoples stories. Thanks for sharing ✌
Great job Jerry, you almost make it look easy. I love these metal working videos.
Have a great weekend
Thanks Bruce - you too. I appreciate you comments :)
Jerry I had to watch this again I enjoyed it so much. Question, are we going to see the finished F-150 project? Finish paint, etc. I bet it looks like new. Take care.
Yes - I'm doing it for a friend in between collision jobs. It should look pretty nice - you take care too Mike 😊
Another great video Jerry. I hope you and your family are doing well.
Hi Bluesman - thanks for checking in - good to hear from you my friend. If you're ever back this way stop in whenever :)
Awesome work, you are a Artist with sheet metal. Enjoyed this very much and learned alot too.
Thanks for the kind words MJAC - have a nice weekend :)
Excellent video! Looks like all too familiar Michigan rust. Take care, looking forward to more.
Thanks 👍. Have a good weekend William 👍😊
Nicely done Bud!!☻
Thanks RK - have a nice weekend :)
Great Video, looking forward to part II. Rust never sleeps in your part of the world.
You're right Irish G - good to hear from you my friend. Have a good weekend :)
They’re all worth saving. Have you seen the price of new and used vehicles?
Great video! A lot to learn here
I Like your videos you do the same Type of work as my Late Brother did he made Bench shears from 1/2 inch steel 18inch Long
It made the process so much easier
They was great for 1/8 sheets keep up the good work ps am from the UK 🇬🇧 AGE 62
Thanks Christopher :)
Dude, I live on the Gulf Coast and we bitch about the salt but you guys and the whole Northeast are on a whole different level! LOL
Thanks for the video Jerry. Saving another rust-bucket one patch at a time! Randy
Yes - thanks for watching Randy :)
PS surely the customer told you to treat hole car with Evaporust and a good body sealer knowing it's only done 65.000
Thank you Jerry for another great how to step by step vidio. Take care.
You take care too Mike - nice to hear from you as always :)
That's a great job! I look forward to watching the finish video. Thanks for sharing
I will finish it too - just got to get back to it. Been busy with other jobs lately :)
All these quarter-panel/arch/inner arch issues come from above - seals that leak around the screens/boots/etc etc & let water down inside the panels. Always. Keep an eye on your seals.. Stuff like this I no longer bother making up panels - I toddle along to a scrapyard & chop a better section out of one of their vehicles, weld that better section onto the car I am repairing. Cut your "donor" panel good & big - trim it to fit when you get home.
Just glancing at the chassis, that vehicle is toast anyway unless the entire chassis gets a treatment pretty swiftly. I have yet to come across any proprietary treatment that works, so I made my own that does. All that aside - excellent instructional video LSA - as per usual. Practical, to the point & real-world stuff.
My "last" comment would be, when done, drown the whole repair in epoxy 2k primer - if you don't, it will rust again in no time. I have found no substitute for epoxy 2k primer. Every other form of primer is a waste of time & energy. It will rust again in jig time. Plus, use flux-core. Flux core works better for bodywork. It just does.
Thanks for your input James - have a great week 🛠👍😊
Holy crap. That's some serious skill brother 😊. Great job and thanks for the video.
Thanks TJ - have a good weekend :)
Great job Jerry this is my favorite metal work
Much appreciated Louis - have a great weekend :)
Awesome work as per usual
Thanks JRM - have a good week :)
Just when I think I can't learn anything more from you-
-you go ahead and educate me more and more and more I learn and just get dumbfounded amazed with slackjaw. 😮
Glad to hear it MD - that kind of stuff is motivating. I appreciate the kind words my friend - have a good weekend :)
great video, helped me out a lot with my rust bucket haha
👍😊
You sure do nice work. And you are a good teacher
Thanks Mike - have a good weekend my friend :)
Simple and effective, excellent 👍
Thanks! 👍 HKR
Great video Jerry. Thank you. AL
Very welcome Al - have a good weekend :)
This is an amazing video!!!!! Truly skilled and thanks for sharing your experience
I appreciate the kind words my friend - enjoy the week :)
Mazdas got to be the top 3 for rust
Yes....
Great tutorial, keep up the good work!!!
Thanks Mr J - thanks for checking it out :)
I love your videos!! You take the intimidation out of body work. You're like the Da Vinci of body work!!
😊 thanks - I appreciate your kindness.
Wow, you're an exceptional welder. And wow, that's some amazing body repair.
Thanks Charles - I appreciate the support :)
So, my truck is doing the same thing living in salt-road Ohio. But I can't do that kind of metal work. Haven't quite figured out what to do yet. Not sure if it's inappropriate for me to ask about how much (roughly) it costs to have a body technician do a job like that.
But either way, that's some really good work.
@@charlesbarr3561 Thanks Charles. Odds are you probably won't find anyone to do it. They'd probably suggest a new bed or box side at least. A box side is probably around $700 so I'm thinkin' a ballpark estimate might be $2000 to have someone replace the box side. Depends a lot on the individual shop. It's very expensive today because of cost of paint, materials, labor, etc. Hope that helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody that's exactly what I was thinking. I don't think any of the body shops I know would pick up a job like that. I should probably start looking for a bed side, the bed itself has been discontinued for a while. I appreciate the honest response. Can't wait to watch the next video. 👍
Great work on fabrication of that rusted section of bedside. Will you be doing the other rusted spots as well. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the work done and the finished product.
I will be finishing it up. I'm doing this for a guy in between collision jobs :)
Great video Jerry you're a metal magician!
Thank UPK - hope you're catching up on all the work you had over there a while back :)
@@LakesideAutobody it’s rough Jerry but I’m catching up, this weather is trying to get nice and I want to enjoy it this year!
@@UndergroundPaintKing Got to take time to enjoy it for sure :)
@@LakesideAutobody yes sir I agree!
Greetings from Connecticut! Great job, Jerry!
Interesting... How's Connecticut? Never been there. Thanks for watching Joseph :)
@@LakesideAutobody Well, the winter has been unusually mild, so I’m certainly happy about that!
Enjoy your channel. Hope you’re doing well!
@@jumpinjojo 👍🛠😊
This is great stuff. In your other videos - you are very right about lapping patches instead of butt joints - especially for amateurs like me. On the body filler - my bondo starts to set in less than 2 minutes - before I can really get it how I like it. What products or tips do you suggest to get time for spreading?
Use less and less hardener until you get it to harden when you want. After a while you'll be able to hurry the hardening or slow it down depending on your needs. That's it. Oh... when it's hot out, it's going to harden fast --- cold = slow :)
@mattwarrensocal - is lap joints better than butt joins? Isn't a lap joint a prime spot for moisture to penetrate (and thus be a moisture- trap) and promote the same rust issues?
Jerry, always a good day when you post! Beautiful work as always🔥💯 thankyou for taking the time to show us how it’s done.
I appreciate your positive comments as always Jake - have a good weekend my friend :)
MAN !!!!!!
WHER ARE YOU LOCATED!!!! I have all my trucks go 250k miles,sell them n watch them go another 150k’s !!
All Chevys !!
I had Fords ! Surface rust,Brakes at 60k so I backed away !
GREAT VIDEOS !!
Thanks Terry. I'm in upper Michigan but I just flip cars and trucks. Rust bucket trucks and clean title repairable vehicles. Glad you enjoyed the video my friend :)
Hi thank you for sharing your knowledge fixing rusty cars llike a real hard worker man,excellent job,appreciate it.God Bless 🙏👍👌
Thanks for the kind words Hector - God Bless you too my friend 😊✌
great job, hope you know they do make inner and outer patch panels for them trucks around 50 bucks a piece well worth saving time in making your own especially the inner.
Yes - thanks for the information. Have a good weekend my friend :)
Im new to the channel i have an o8 chrysler 300 awd with bad rusting ,i really wanna save it ,thanks for your videos
You're welcome - feel free to ask ?s - get to them every day :)
Hi Jerry, Friday comes around, and so do your videos :) Looks awesome. What gauge of metal are you using? Is it a special metal? I've heard of satin coated, whats so special about it. Wonder if you could or have a video, about the sheet metal requirements? Have a great weekend. You definitely earned it!
It's 20 gauge (.030") nothing special - CR sheet I think A1008 from Alro Steel in Grayling, MI. I'll write that down - good idea for a video my friend. You have a good weekend too 😊
satin or also galvanneal are a subtype of galvanized steel that has a...satin appearance among other characteristics. zinc-aluminium-other components coating over steel to sacrifice itself(galvanic corrosion) first before the iron.
These coatings don't like heat from welding (arc or flame will burn the zinc alloy) , which is why automakers who use a lot more of it prescribe MIG Brazing, adhesive spot welding and adhesives. Ultra High Tensile Strength Steels also don't like heat from welding.
@@rolfbjorn9937 Thanks for the information and your input Rolf B - where you an engineer?
@@rolfbjorn9937does it give off poison gases when you weld, like normal galvanised steel ?
Our chaps used to grind it back to bare metal in the weld area, and wear a mask and use forced ventilation
Wow, that was quite a rusty box side. I had one of those trucks in the past, I did not know there was a piece of foam at the top of the arch.
Great repair Jerry, maybe you will keep going on that truck ?
Yes PSG - I'm going to keep going till she's all done. It's a friends truck that I do in between other work :)
@@LakesideAutobody awesome !!
As always, your work is amazing.
Thanks Coolcat - I appreciate that. Have a great week :)
Looks like this truck could be a whole mini-series ! I looked a ford truck since it had great towing capacity, but like this one, the wheel arches were rusting out again and the frame had two holes in it, wasn't even 10 years old and we have salt, but not like Michigan or Upstate NY.
👍😊
Wow.....nice work. Now, just add a new truck bed to that good piece of metal....lol.
Thanks and thanks for checking it out :)
I did this on my pickup but it was worse so i built a wheelhouse out of 16 gauge and then I finished with parts of a hood. It took me a very long time and I'm wondering how long did you spend on this project?
Generally a patch like this takes about 4 hours. If you started at 8am you should have the thing in primer before lunch. Go to lunch, come back and block sand it. That's how it went working in a body shop many times. Feather fill and lacquer primer with both dry nicely while your at lunch about an hour @ 70 degrees
What gauge sheet metal do you use for your patch panels? Thank You for the great video.
22 or 20 - 22 ~ .030" & 20 ~ .035" Both hold up well over time and can be worked with easily :)
Another great video, thanks! What gauge sheet metal is that? Those sheers cut it like its 22ga or smaller.
They cut pretty thick stuff - I commonly cut 20 gauge (.035") and 22 gauge (.030") It'll gut thicker too - It's from HF so I think the specs are on the site :)
👀 beginning was scary 🔨
Have you got any videos recommending how to handle rusted out windshield frames? My 2000 Mustang has some amount of rust beneath the windshield (havent removed it yet, is an absolute hassle, but used a 9 gauge guitar string to remove the windshield on my subaru just fine, havent tried it yet on the Mustang), and on my Subaru, in the wall that goes from the windshield flange up to the roof, theres an area where it has rusted all the way through. Having watched a lot of your vids over the last couple years, I feel like I can piece together a solution, just wasnt sure if there was a more definitive solution.
You can absolutely fix all of that - had a Ranger that rusted through the windshield and down the fire wall. The metal cowl (grille) had to be cut out, the repair done and painted inside the air duct/ cowl area, then the grille part welded back in and mudded up. It took some time but it can be fixed. You can do it how ever you can do it - it that makes sense :)
You are a true genius and great metal sculptor, and you can work on my vehicle anytime!
Thanks for the support Ben - I appreciate the comment. Happy New Year 🎉😊
I learn so much from youre videos thank you !!
You're welcome LP - enjoy the week :)
Does no one supply decent rust protection coatings ?
Over in the UK cars dont seem to rust like they used to, although one brand of pick up truck rotted out its chassis rails in a few years, the company bought them all back and cut them in half then sent them for scrap ,yet a few garages, old school made jigs and repaired the chassis frames and made them stronger
There's not a lot of good choices for rust protection. Some plug the drain holes - some wear off, some don't coat everything, etc.
Mean no harm but cut out the rust LOL that's the whole side LOL awesome work sir never a dull moment
Thanks Rudy - have a great weekend :)
Other great job. Keep up the good work and have a great weekend
Thanks Brad - appreciate it 😊
You're a good teacher. Btw, what welding helmet is that? What do you like about it? Thanks!
To me all welding helmets are very similar - even the cheap harbor freight one works great. YesWelder sent this one out for me to try it so... It works well and has the 180 view that darkens also. Here's one similar (mine's discontinued) ruclips.net/video/1XIibD2iAnc/видео.html Thanks for you kind words too Kevin 😊
Did you lap weld that panel on or butt weld? Also is that a mig with gas? Or is it flux?
It's lap welded - here's that video ruclips.net/video/Jk29avqnVXI/видео.html Here's a vid comparing lap and butt - ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html The welder was gas - here's a vid on the exact welder - ruclips.net/video/jZikIeH-SWQ/видео.html
Very well done! Especially having the correct tools. The ONLY thing I would have done is undercoat the filler tube. I know, because I had one rust on my 97 Camry. That's sad 63,000 miles & all that rust. I'd STILL have my 97 if it wasnt for rust. 🙄 👍
Good suggestion RB 👍🛠😊
Thanks for the class lol can you tell me what kind of metal sheet you use for the job not clue on what to use thanks in advance
20 or 22 gauge CR A1008 Sheet Metal. You can get this stuff from most metal supply places like Alro Steel. 20 gauge is ~ .035" -- 22 gauge is ~ .030"
@@LakesideAutobody thank very much trying to do my own lol
@@victorbeltran5304 Cool - let me know if you have any more ?s :)
You are a Craftsman ,sir!
Thanks Greg - have a good week my friend :)
Hey anyone know how much something like this costs? I could really use
Awesome work, sir.
Thanks and thanks for watching :)
This is a good example of horses for courses. It's a rough and ready approach, but given the application it's perfectly passable and if I was paying for this kind of job on this kind of vehicle I'd be absolutely hoping for this approach. Not everything needs to be Concourse
👍 Don't be fooled by these concourse guys either - they are sneaking in the filler one way or the other. Whether it is thick thick primer or body filler it's filler. I'd rather have filler than thick primer any day too. I think they're sneaking in a little filler here and there too - just like the factories do :)
Great video man🤘🤘
Thanks James 🛠👍✌
Would a complete bedside be a better route to go with that much rust? Where do you draw the line on something like this?
Money draws the line. The cheapest route is homemade patch, then patch panels then bedside then whole bed :)
Hi there. Happy Wednesday to ya. IF you feel like answering an unrelated question, I've got one for ya- I have an old super surface rusty hood that I am going to practice on. It seems though that the metal has become thin because of the ridiculous amount of flex in it. Can filler flex like that? It will definitely need some areas knocked down and filled, and skim coated. Will all that material flex with the metal?
-DIO
It was sort of common that old large hoods flexed quite a bit. If it's just flexing that's fine. If it is "popping" in and out you'll have to address that. One way to fix it is this - ruclips.net/video/K5MVVnsERqc/видео.html
Damn good job. Do you offer services to the public?
Unfortunately, I just make YT videos. I flip clean title, repairable vehicles for collision videos and rust repair is done on family vehicles. Even with doing close family member rust buckets, I'm booked for months out! Thanks for asking though MP800 :)
I've been a body man for years, started when I was kid, I was an apprentice for many years ! I fully understand what he is doing! The everyday person couldn't do it! My point is, by the time you get the patch panels, do all the cutting, weilding, grinding & the materials for the plastic work and put in primer! You have spent more then what a used bed would be! Your not even into the cost of those materials! You done spent more then the cost of buying a used bed and painting it!
What if your boss says fix it?
I've never had a boss and if I did ide tell him do himself, you see what you don't understand is " a good body man don't need a boss, a boss needs the bodyman!!!!
@@garyschroer68 👍✌😊 - Have a good 4th Gary 🧨💥
What's the matter you don't like hearing the truth?
Hey Jerry what do you think about primer sealer over fill primer I saw a can of automotive primer sealer and it said to spray over last primer coat before painting 🤷♂️
Sealer can be very helpful. Some guys like to use it some don't. It get everything one color, seal the body work, help with covering any very small imperfections, prime any tiny bare metal spots that were missed. :)
@@LakesideAutobody I think I’ll try it hopefully it won’t rain Saturday 😁
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 👍
another incredible video, thanks for that. what gauge were the sheets you cut and what was that black spray on the metal parts?
The sheet metal is 20 gauge (.035"). The black spray was rubberized undercoating. See this video of a decent method to prevent future rust - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
I'm about to try welding a patch panel for the first time. What gauge sheet metal do you recommend using for around the wheel well area and the side sill?
22 or 20 gauge 22 is ~.030" and 20 is ~ .035"
How does the Arccaptain compare to the YesWelder you had in earlier vids? Do you still use that one too? Nice project!
I only use the ARCCAPTAIN now - it welds really nice and is super user friendly. Has a nice big interface with large letters and number for older eyes 😊 They both weld very similar - I've been pretty impressed with the import welders. Getting parts may be a different story if you ever need them 🥴
how long will the ford f 150 aluminum body last? are they collision repairable? thanks!
I have one right now and I'm sure the body will last a very long time but one thing to remember is that the underbody, frame, fuel lines, brake lines, brackets, mounts, etc. are all steel and will rust so.... They are collision repairable :)
@@LakesideAutobody how old is your ford? it would be great if you would do a review of how the aluminum body and paint on aluminum is holding up.
One suggestion, make your patch first before removing all the rust so you wont remove the shape you want to make.
That's a good tip PVP - thanks for your input :)
That would be the correct way to do the panel replacement. Same as hammer and dolly out dents, control warping but when your using 3/8” or more body filler it really doesn’t matter.