Being from Frankenmuth, Michigan myself; I find your videos extremely helpful dealing with rusty panels. I’ve been wanting to take care of my father’s rocker panels on his 96 c1500 using his Miller fluxcore welder. I’ve purchased the body panels and will start tackling the work. Thank you for not only demonstrating the work but explaining the why as well.
I am glad to find someone that use a lap weld or flange weld, if there is room for the tool. My son, 34 now, found a truck that needed work so he could start a lawn service. He quit his long time job after his boss gave him two weeks to learn Spanish for the guys he hired. Dad (Me) fixed the electrical, put a serpentine belt system with pulleys, brackets for missing parts and welded new metal for rust. Not too bad. He gave me the truck after he spent $600. It had new aluminized exhaust, valve job, carb, intake and like most kids, put a huge cam in a 72 Chevy 4 bolt 350, sitting in a 1967 C10. The rear window was horrible. They busted things but bolted a camper shell window in the cab crooked and gaps. A friend had a saws all with 4 batteries. These are dual skin, but found a large window with a slider in it. I was able to cut it out and paid $60 for it. To install, it has to be done in two parts. I drilled each pinch weld, cold galvanized. After measuring from 8 standard locations, trimmed the panels 5/8” over-sized, ground paint of, used masking tape, marks and cut short as I could use the flange tool inside and out. With 32 vise grips, all lined up, MIG the spot welds on both side. Complete all welds then used hard pressed thin layer of dynaglass into the tiny gap, cheese grater, filler to smooth and kept the OEM panel lines on the outside. It was sprayed inside with a yellow wax rust product I had from the dealer that closed. Anything open, went to the trash. All of the other techs found jobs as I dumpster dived each night. I am glad I could fit the flange tool as the 18 gauge metal fit flush. The inside curved corners where hard. A friend had a ball shaped buffing pad almost 6-8” in diameter, worked great with air drill and PSA sandpaper. Glad it works for you. The waist oil is a great tip for guys wanting to keep a vehicle looking good for a few more years. It works. Place some cardboard down if there are drain holes. Thanks for the video! Long time subscriber! Keep em coming...
Great story - sounds like it'll last a good long time. You sound like you're pretty handy. You really can make a car or truck last forever as long as you don't get bored of it (I usually do then get another project) Glad you enjoy the videos and I'll keep them coming. Thanks so much for the support :)
@@LakesideAutobody If you are old enough to remember buying gas with your license plates odd/even number, and a peanut farmer in the White House. Gas had jumped 3 time in 2 years. Sold at $019.9 cents, jumped to $036.9 cents then to $060.9 cents per gallon. People thought the world was coming to an end. In KS, at age 13, a drivers license was black/white, no photo. I had my second Yamaha at 11, a 250cc single off-road w/ lights. If my jeans had coins in it, I could fill the tank. But gas stations where abandon everywhere, they had no fuel. Drive by one, saw a construction company selling a PU. Called the number and gave them $150 for a 1965 C10 Apache, 283, power-glide and wood bed soaked in new motor oil, used motor oil and spilt diesel. They service bulldozers, scrapers and back hoes. Bringing back childhood memories as I grew 7 inches at age 11. Small town gas station w/wood floors, benches for 12 people had the farmers telling jokes, talking about everything, while the women folks was in church. I lived in a pull camper behind the station, pumped gas 7 days a week and was fixing flats and car repairs. The town drunk got his car taken from him so he rode his riding lawnmower the two miles from his farm. Sounds like “Mayberry RFD”, but no Andy Taylor. We had a big farm, but got real tired on the belt. Learned to run fast with long legs, found I was adopted and left. Ain’t spoke to any of them since 1981. Never looked back. But I do love my C10. Thinking of putting sport rack & pinion on it from a 87 Barreta with center take off. C20 lowers, 88-98 knuckle, disc and 3” piston calipers. Keeping it all GM. The difference is, I am writing a service manual for it. Parts, schematics everything. Enjoy the videos and clear vocals w/o music.
100% Agree. Am 65, I learn from when I was 11, Lap Patches If You treat the back with an anti rust paint, in your case oil, they last a lon time. Butt weld is good when you are fabricating panels and requires some shapes. But for day to day driving cars repairs, cleaning and cutting the rust. Is the way to go. Am Not A Car Maker, I repair and Make My Customers Happy. Never Have A Sign in any of My Shop, And Still doing.
When folks question you on that topic, have them look up "Sail Panel Seam". Factories used lap welds in a shallow valley to connect the quarter to the roof - lasted forever if done right :)
you do a great job both butt and overlapping and give common sense reasons for your choice. that's all that's needed and the choices you made on the tailgate after ten years proves it! keep your videos a coming.
Thanks so much - I appreciate that. I have a video coming up that thoroughly goes over the ins and outs of butt welding and metal finishing vs lap welding and other methods - I think you'll like it. Thanks a lot for the support :)
Great video I repaired my tailgate last year and it started rusting again. This time I will start putting the oil on the inside of it. I subscribed to your channel bc of the motor oil suggestion.
In other words, for certain areas where you can’t oil the inside (where the weld is not protected) you are actually better off with POR-15 and fiberglass, which will last much longer if done right.
Awesome. I always thought the after treatment made the difference not how it was welded. Those buttwelded cars on the TV shows are going to be kept indoors and never get wet. Lap welds coated with oil would outlast any untreated butt weld, MIG or TIG
@@LakesideAutobody thats what i always thought to, exactly after but weld and grinding theres barely any metal left , were as lap is way stronger and after i tap it down i do two coats of fiberglass bondo before finishing coats with regular filler
Thanks so much for the information. I’m about to do a lot of work on my truck wasn’t wasn’t sure if it was worth it. Sounds like as long as I take care of it and keep fluid film or oil it should hold up fine
You're welcome - I bought this truck in 2008 for $1200 off of Craigslist. Drove it for 10 straight years through Detroit to work - very salty roads. Trucks are good because they have a full frame and you can easily make sure the rust underneath in under control.
you're the best.. I just got a project car 1972 510, it has some spots that need cut out and fixed similar size to this. I only have a cheap harbor freight welder like the one you've made a few videos on... Do you think it will be fine for what I'm wanting to do to one car with a couple rust spots on quarters and rockers? or will I be wishing I had a mig for my project? I've never welded before.
It’s simple considering what a lengthy pain it is welding patches and painting. The same goes for door bottom weep holes. Who even knows they’re there. 🤦🏻♂️
I once drove I-94 and got off on a side street in Detroit. I hit up the locals: "yo homie, check out my 22" rims dawg, are we gonna chill 😎 @ your crib later 2 nite, G??"
This is Fantastic! Thank you for making this. Did you wash the truck very often during the winter in those 10 years? Also in your opinion does storing inside vs outside make a big difference on whether a vehicle will rust?
I sort of like to keep a clean car but in the winter it is usually dirty. Maybe 3-4 times I took it to the car wash in the winter. I've never had a garage to park cars in overnight but I do believe that would help a bit as the car would have a chance to drain and dry out a bit.
The oils the secret sauce. I prefer a mix of used Dextron ATF / Vaseline petroleum jelly / bar and chain oil. I spray the undersides of my old beater truck every December. Just get it hot to spray and let Gretta 🙄worry about the drips.
Keep coming with the recipes - I love it. I hear some kind of recipe with linseed oil works well too you can even throw in some black rustoleum I guess - make the frame look real nice :)
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry, I am VERY intrigued by all this. I have heard of using used motor oil before but have not tried it. It is hard to argue with success, and 10 years is proof to me that the oil did its job! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I was wondering how you got the oil in those tiny holes. Thought you might have a tiny sprayer setup but nope, just a simple oil can gets it done! Here's another mention of the ATF/Bar & Chain oil mix; scroll the the poster named, "Moxie" www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18457 . @Merlin Cat what's the ratios of ATF/Vaseline/Bar & Chain oil you prefer? I've been using Fluid Film but it seems to wash off exposed areas quickly. Last year I had two vehicles oil sprayed by a local guy. He told me he uses new Bar & Chain oil. I think there's more to his recipe - the stuff not only sticks, it also creeps very well. Many locals say they've seen him heat his mix in a microwave before spraying. He sprayed my wife's truck. I did an oil change on it last weekend. We're half way through winter, she drives it almost every day and no sign of it washing off yet!!! Thanks, Larry
@@lcar9871 There are some really good recipes out there especially in Canada. I bought my wife a new Kia Sportage in 2002 and did this on every oil change. We still have it and no rust in all door bottoms, rockers, hood, tailgate and bottoms of fenders and quarters. I's good to start when it's new. Jerry
Can I use painted aluminum with pop rivets over the original rusted steel panel? Would I use steel or aluminum pop rivets? I know steel and aluminum are dissimilar metals, but since the aluminum is painted, galvanic action should be minimal/eliminated? Of course aluminum easier to bend and would never rust. I have rocker panel.
Neglected oil leak on a 98 Silverado has left behind the most rust free area of the frame and steering linkage. Put on a new power steering hose that was leaking so now I suppose that area will rust too.
Just oiled the repair. You're right though there's lots of strategies for the under carriage. Look up Cosmoline RP-342 - the stuff is incredible - once you spray it on, it's never coming off and seriously protects against rust. In the old days though I would fill a spray gun with used motor oil thinned with mineral spirits and soak the bottom with that. Gets everything greasy like an old valve cover after a while - won't hurt anything either. Doesn't combust either so no worries there :)
All about 1/4" apart. You can put the welds right next to each other though. It doesn't seem to matter - I've done them both ways and haven't seen too much difference :)
Hi Jerry,when repairing a vehicle using a patch panel and a lap joint how do you manage to lose the over lapping panel in your prep work before painting so that the repair is invisible when finished ?....Great video btw 👍
My next video will show how to knock those welds down. Use a combo of butt welds and lap. Lap for the areas of the patch that can be tapped down with a body hammer (pointy end) below the original surface of the panel. Butt welds for the edges or any thing that can't be knocked down although I do try to tap the edges down a bit so I don't have to grind the welds completely flush thus preserving the integrity of the weld and adjacent metal. This vid may help for now - ruclips.net/video/84A8NQnkMEc/видео.html
As always a great video I have been wrenching for 40 years now I have taken up body work just as a hobby and to get some of my cars done our 14 ford 450 wheel lift body is rusting bad no holes what is the best thing to stop rust and best paint to paint over it thanks for the videos
Usually cars rust from the inside out so I would try to get some WD40 or used motor oil inside the panels, rockers, tailgate, wheel wheel arches, fender bottoms, cab corners, etc. It is a bit of work and you have to get creative but it will stop the rust. Make sure the panels can drain too - check the drain holes for debris, and fender bottoms for leaves, mud, etc. You can see this by opening the door and squirting the fender bottom out from the door jamb. Basically everything has to drain and it has to be oily at the bottoms of the panels. As for paint, rustoleum is a good cheap rust preventative paint but it wont match. Hope that helps a little - Jerry
Professional body shops in Michigan lap weld them in. If you insist on butt welding them in don't try to grind the welds down to nothing and attempt to metal finish - you'll have paper thin welds and adjacent metal. You'll lap weld where you can easily tap the welds down and but weld where you can't knock the weld down that far like edges, corners and rigid areas - this video may help: ruclips.net/video/I8VVlYPIigA/видео.html watch close as I explain where I used butt welds, lap welds and spot welds - hope that helps. Jerry
Yes, a series of spot welds 1/2 inch apart. You want to avoid excessive heat - warpage, fire from the inside of the panel - thus the spot welds. You can space the welds real far at first, 'til you get the panel where you want it, then make them closer and closer until you're satisfied. I find putting right next to each other unnecessary though - if a panel is going to rust it's going to rust from the bottom up - hope that helps - Jerry
Are used to know a guy in the 80s that oiled his truck twice a year would mix it with something and sprayed on on his frame it always stayed prfict no rot
I met a small time farmer that had his original equipment from when he first bought his farm after the Korean War. Before he put the machinery away for the Winter, he would spray it with used motor oil, and cut it with diesel fuel #2!
I like to your videos a lot only thing I'm not a fan of is used oil has carbon in it that can cause an acid to rust faster new fresh oil is a lot safer my nabiour had his one car done oil sprayed with used oil and all along the spot welds in rocker panels and wheel wells rotted out faster he asked me why it rusted I asked him did he use the new oil he said used ah carbon from the motor an acid in the oil
Thanks again Jerry. Your practical and professional experience is absolutely the best.
You're welcome Joel.
Glad I found you a couple of months ago. Your videos are short, sweet, and honest. Couldn't ask for more. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome. Glad you appreciate them - Jerry
Being from Frankenmuth, Michigan myself; I find your videos extremely helpful dealing with rusty panels. I’ve been wanting to take care of my father’s rocker panels on his 96 c1500 using his Miller fluxcore welder. I’ve purchased the body panels and will start tackling the work.
Thank you for not only demonstrating the work but explaining the why as well.
I am glad to find someone that use a lap weld or flange weld, if there is room for the tool. My son, 34 now, found a truck that needed work so he could start a lawn service. He quit his long time job after his boss gave him two weeks to learn Spanish for the guys he hired. Dad (Me) fixed the electrical, put a serpentine belt system with pulleys, brackets for missing parts and welded new metal for rust. Not too bad. He gave me the truck after he spent $600. It had new aluminized exhaust, valve job, carb, intake and like most kids, put a huge cam in a 72 Chevy 4 bolt 350, sitting in a 1967 C10. The rear window was horrible. They busted things but bolted a camper shell window in the cab crooked and gaps. A friend had a saws all with 4 batteries. These are dual skin, but found a large window with a slider in it. I was able to cut it out and paid $60 for it. To install, it has to be done in two parts. I drilled each pinch weld, cold galvanized. After measuring from 8 standard locations, trimmed the panels 5/8” over-sized, ground paint of, used masking tape, marks and cut short as I could use the flange tool inside and out. With 32 vise grips, all lined up, MIG the spot welds on both side. Complete all welds then used hard pressed thin layer of dynaglass into the tiny gap, cheese grater, filler to smooth and kept the OEM panel lines on the outside. It was sprayed inside with a yellow wax rust product I had from the dealer that closed. Anything open, went to the trash. All of the other techs found jobs as I dumpster dived each night. I am glad I could fit the flange tool as the 18 gauge metal fit flush. The inside curved corners where hard. A friend had a ball shaped buffing pad almost 6-8” in diameter, worked great with air drill and PSA sandpaper. Glad it works for you. The waist oil is a great tip for guys wanting to keep a vehicle looking good for a few more years. It works. Place some cardboard down if there are drain holes. Thanks for the video! Long time subscriber! Keep em coming...
Great story - sounds like it'll last a good long time. You sound like you're pretty handy. You really can make a car or truck last forever as long as you don't get bored of it (I usually do then get another project) Glad you enjoy the videos and I'll keep them coming. Thanks so much for the support :)
@@LakesideAutobody If you are old enough to remember buying gas with your license plates odd/even number, and a peanut farmer in the White House. Gas had jumped 3 time in 2 years. Sold at $019.9 cents, jumped to $036.9 cents then to $060.9 cents per gallon. People thought the world was coming to an end. In KS, at age 13, a drivers license was black/white, no photo. I had my second Yamaha at 11, a 250cc single off-road w/ lights. If my jeans had coins in it, I could fill the tank. But gas stations where abandon everywhere, they had no fuel. Drive by one, saw a construction company selling a PU. Called the number and gave them $150 for a 1965 C10 Apache, 283, power-glide and wood bed soaked in new motor oil, used motor oil and spilt diesel. They service bulldozers, scrapers and back hoes. Bringing back childhood memories as I grew 7 inches at age 11. Small town gas station w/wood floors, benches for 12 people had the farmers telling jokes, talking about everything, while the women folks was in church. I lived in a pull camper behind the station, pumped gas 7 days a week and was fixing flats and car repairs. The town drunk got his car taken from him so he rode his riding lawnmower the two miles from his farm. Sounds like “Mayberry RFD”, but no Andy Taylor. We had a big farm, but got real tired on the belt. Learned to run fast with long legs, found I was adopted and left. Ain’t spoke to any of them since 1981. Never looked back. But I do love my C10. Thinking of putting sport rack & pinion on it from a 87 Barreta with center take off. C20 lowers, 88-98 knuckle, disc and 3” piston calipers. Keeping it all GM. The difference is, I am writing a service manual for it. Parts, schematics everything. Enjoy the videos and clear vocals w/o music.
That oil trick of yours is great advice!
If you do it to a new door it will never rust - ever :)
100% Agree. Am 65, I learn from when I was 11, Lap Patches If You treat the back with an anti rust paint, in your case oil, they last a lon time. Butt weld is good when you are fabricating panels and requires some shapes. But for day to day driving cars repairs, cleaning and cutting the rust. Is the way to go. Am Not A Car Maker, I repair and Make My Customers Happy. Never Have A Sign in any of My Shop, And Still doing.
When folks question you on that topic, have them look up "Sail Panel Seam". Factories used lap welds in a shallow valley to connect the quarter to the roof - lasted forever if done right :)
you do a great job both butt and overlapping and give common sense reasons for your choice. that's all that's needed and the choices you made on the tailgate after ten years proves it! keep your videos a coming.
Thanks so much - I appreciate that. I have a video coming up that thoroughly goes over the ins and outs of butt welding and metal finishing vs lap welding and other methods - I think you'll like it. Thanks a lot for the support :)
Great video I repaired my tailgate last year and it started rusting again. This time I will start putting the oil on the inside of it. I subscribed to your channel bc of the motor oil suggestion.
Glad it helped - thanks for subscribing
In other words, for certain areas where you can’t oil the inside (where the weld is not protected) you are actually better off with POR-15 and fiberglass, which will last much longer if done right.
Awesome. I always thought the after treatment made the difference not how it was welded. Those buttwelded cars on the TV shows are going to be kept indoors and never get wet. Lap welds coated with oil would outlast any untreated butt weld, MIG or TIG
Body shops that are in business use lap welds - I'm not sure about the integrity of the but weld after you grind it completely flat.
@@LakesideAutobody thats what i always thought to, exactly after but weld and grinding theres barely any metal left , were as lap is way stronger and after i tap it down i do two coats of fiberglass bondo before finishing coats with regular filler
DONE TOTALLY CORRECT.... and I have done these types of repairs and they have lased 20 years..... OIL is the trick for you rust belt guys.
Thank you for your input - that's good to hear. You're right, oil's cheap an it works fine. Thanks for the support Mike :)
@@LakesideAutobody I liked your comment in another that it takes over 5K welds to build an automobile and every single one is a lap weld!
I’ve learned a ton from your channel thank you for your videos there very informative
I'm happy to hear that. You're welcome and I'll keep them coming. Merry Christmas :)
Thanks so much for the information. I’m about to do a lot of work on my truck wasn’t wasn’t sure if it was worth it. Sounds like as long as I take care of it and keep fluid film or oil it should hold up fine
You're welcome - I bought this truck in 2008 for $1200 off of Craigslist. Drove it for 10 straight years through Detroit to work - very salty roads. Trucks are good because they have a full frame and you can easily make sure the rust underneath in under control.
Looks good to me bud. 👍, keep up with the rust repair videos....pure gold. 😊
Thanks - I will :)
Just discovered your site. Thanks for the great videos. You've got a PhD in communication.
You're welcome - I'm glad you like the videos - Happy Holidays
Thanks. This is helpful.
You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
lap weld it is for me. Thanks very informative
It's really the only way to do it. It lasts long, it's efficient, and achievable. Jerry
thanks i do the same with the used oil in my doors for my 72 chevy
You're welcome - Jerry
I do my 1976 resto rod corvette frame is mint no time for frame off lolol owned it 40+years
I do my entire car and truck bodies frames doors quarters . I use new oil in doors and quarters but used on underside
Old motor oil: how many miles should be on the oil before applying? Kidding.
you're the best.. I just got a project car 1972 510, it has some spots that need cut out and fixed similar size to this. I only have a cheap harbor freight welder like the one you've made a few videos on... Do you think it will be fine for what I'm wanting to do to one car with a couple rust spots on quarters and rockers? or will I be wishing I had a mig for my project? I've never welded before.
Thanks Joseph good luck on your car. If you have ?s feel free to ask. Sorry about the late reply - Jerry
Great advice, the sad thing is I bet the average person wouldn’t bother going to the trouble of doing it, thanks for sharing 👍
You're welcome - it is a bit of work but it does stop the rust
It’s simple considering what a lengthy pain it is welding patches and painting. The same goes for door bottom weep holes. Who even knows they’re there. 🤦🏻♂️
I once drove I-94 and got off on a side street in Detroit. I hit up the locals: "yo homie, check out my 22" rims dawg, are we gonna chill 😎 @ your crib later 2 nite, G??"
Right... homie, dawg and chill is not cool anymore - that's old guy lingo now ✌️
This is Fantastic! Thank you for making this. Did you wash the truck very often during the winter in those 10 years? Also in your opinion does storing inside vs outside make a big difference on whether a vehicle will rust?
I sort of like to keep a clean car but in the winter it is usually dirty. Maybe 3-4 times I took it to the car wash in the winter. I've never had a garage to park cars in overnight but I do believe that would help a bit as the car would have a chance to drain and dry out a bit.
The oils the secret sauce. I prefer a mix of used Dextron ATF / Vaseline petroleum jelly / bar and chain oil. I spray the undersides of my old beater truck every December. Just get it hot to spray and let Gretta 🙄worry about the drips.
Keep coming with the recipes - I love it. I hear some kind of recipe with linseed oil works well too you can even throw in some black rustoleum I guess - make the frame look real nice :)
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry, I am VERY intrigued by all this. I have heard of using used motor oil before but have not tried it. It is hard to argue with success, and 10 years is proof to me that the oil did its job! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I was wondering how you got the oil in those tiny holes. Thought you might have a tiny sprayer setup but nope, just a simple oil can gets it done!
Here's another mention of the ATF/Bar & Chain oil mix; scroll the the poster named, "Moxie" www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18457 . @Merlin Cat what's the ratios of ATF/Vaseline/Bar & Chain oil you prefer? I've been using Fluid Film but it seems to wash off exposed areas quickly. Last year I had two vehicles oil sprayed by a local guy. He told me he uses new Bar & Chain oil. I think there's more to his recipe - the stuff not only sticks, it also creeps very well. Many locals say they've seen him heat his mix in a microwave before spraying. He sprayed my wife's truck. I did an oil change on it last weekend. We're half way through winter, she drives it almost every day and no sign of it washing off yet!!! Thanks, Larry
@@lcar9871 There are some really good recipes out there especially in Canada. I bought my wife a new Kia Sportage in 2002 and did this on every oil change. We still have it and no rust in all door bottoms, rockers, hood, tailgate and bottoms of fenders and quarters. I's good to start when it's new. Jerry
@Merlin Cat how do you spray it on
@merlincat What's your mixing ratio of atv to vaseline to bar & chain oil?
Can I use painted aluminum with pop rivets over the original rusted steel panel? Would I use steel or aluminum pop rivets? I know steel and aluminum are dissimilar metals, but since the aluminum is painted, galvanic action should be minimal/eliminated? Of course aluminum easier to bend and would never rust. I have rocker panel.
You can try it. If you use glue the two metals may not corrode :)
Neglected oil leak on a 98 Silverado has left behind the most rust free area of the frame and steering linkage. Put on a new power steering hose that was leaking so now I suppose that area will rust too.
Nothing better than fixing something rust free. How nice would it be to fix a car from the South. Just loosen the bolt - done.
If you have oil leaks it is automatic continuous rustproofing under your car.
Do you spray oil or automobile under carriage coating (which I think is lanolin) on your truck in preparation for winter? Or just oil the repair?
Just oiled the repair. You're right though there's lots of strategies for the under carriage. Look up Cosmoline RP-342 - the stuff is incredible - once you spray it on, it's never coming off and seriously protects against rust. In the old days though I would fill a spray gun with used motor oil thinned with mineral spirits and soak the bottom with that. Gets everything greasy like an old valve cover after a while - won't hurt anything either. Doesn't combust either so no worries there :)
Awesome,,Thanks.
You're welcome Jim - have a good weekend :)
Did you close your weld or just weld at all half inch?Thanks
All about 1/4" apart. You can put the welds right next to each other though. It doesn't seem to matter - I've done them both ways and haven't seen too much difference :)
Hi Jerry,when repairing a vehicle using a patch panel and a lap joint how do you manage to lose the over lapping panel in your prep work before painting so that the repair is invisible when finished ?....Great video btw 👍
My next video will show how to knock those welds down. Use a combo of butt welds and lap. Lap for the areas of the patch that can be tapped down with a body hammer (pointy end) below the original surface of the panel. Butt welds for the edges or any thing that can't be knocked down although I do try to tap the edges down a bit so I don't have to grind the welds completely flush thus preserving the integrity of the weld and adjacent metal. This vid may help for now - ruclips.net/video/84A8NQnkMEc/видео.html
Lakeside Autobody Thanks for the reply Jerry 👍
As always a great video I have been wrenching for 40 years now I have taken up body work just as a hobby and to get some of my cars done our 14 ford 450 wheel lift body is rusting bad no holes what is the best thing to stop rust and best paint to paint over it thanks for the videos
Usually cars rust from the inside out so I would try to get some WD40 or used motor oil inside the panels, rockers, tailgate, wheel wheel arches, fender bottoms, cab corners, etc. It is a bit of work and you have to get creative but it will stop the rust. Make sure the panels can drain too - check the drain holes for debris, and fender bottoms for leaves, mud, etc. You can see this by opening the door and squirting the fender bottom out from the door jamb. Basically everything has to drain and it has to be oily at the bottoms of the panels. As for paint, rustoleum is a good cheap rust preventative paint but it wont match. Hope that helps a little - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thanks jerry this is a wheel lift body not sure how it's built will get under it thanks again for your time
@@michaelovers688 You're welcome
I'm doing cab corners on a 2010 ford f150 should I butt weld or lap weld them in
Professional body shops in Michigan lap weld them in. If you insist on butt welding them in don't try to grind the welds down to nothing and attempt to metal finish - you'll have paper thin welds and adjacent metal. You'll lap weld where you can easily tap the welds down and but weld where you can't knock the weld down that far like edges, corners and rigid areas - this video may help: ruclips.net/video/I8VVlYPIigA/видео.html watch close as I explain where I used butt welds, lap welds and spot welds - hope that helps. Jerry
which one do you think will last longer I'd like to get a good three years out of it before the rust starts to come back
@@steventipton1817 lap but you need to treat the back side of the weld
Jerry, by 1/2 inch apart, do you mean that you tack welded it, not fully welded it? Thank you!
Yes, a series of spot welds 1/2 inch apart. You want to avoid excessive heat - warpage, fire from the inside of the panel - thus the spot welds. You can space the welds real far at first, 'til you get the panel where you want it, then make them closer and closer until you're satisfied. I find putting right next to each other unnecessary though - if a panel is going to rust it's going to rust from the bottom up - hope that helps - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry!
Are used to know a guy in the 80s that oiled his truck twice a year would mix it with something and sprayed on on his frame it always stayed prfict no rot
It really does work - just have to stick with it. It's sort of a pain but worth the work really - Jerry
I met a small time farmer that had his original equipment from when he first bought his farm after the Korean War. Before he put the machinery away for the Winter, he would spray it with used motor oil, and cut it with diesel fuel #2!
@@davekana8388 Thanks for the information. Right now I'm using mineral spirits to cut it but the diesel fuel would be cheaper for sure. Thanks again
U sound a lot like my dad
so many spend the big $ and time to repair but never protect the metal from the back side. Then wonder why it rots out again in a year or two.
I like to your videos a lot only thing I'm not a fan of is used oil has carbon in it that can cause an acid to rust faster new fresh oil is a lot safer my nabiour had his one car done oil sprayed with used oil and all along the spot welds in rocker panels and wheel wells rotted out faster he asked me why it rusted I asked him did he use the new oil he said used ah carbon from the motor an acid in the oil
Thanks - this video is absolutely true - it might change your mind - plus used oil is free :) ruclips.net/video/y05dNxt-nVc/видео.html
I use fish oil , , stinks for a while , but wont rust ,