The Most Common Oil Leak on Ford’s 3.5L EcoBoost | Vacuum Pump
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 23 июн 2022
- Thanks for watching!
Business inquiries maysondunsford@gmail.com
🔔 Subscribe & Ring Bell: / @flyingwrenches13
⬇️2011-2016 Vacuum Pump
Part #: Brpv-23
Buy Here: amzn.to/3HK7pOu
⬇️Tools for the Job
1/4” Gp Socket Set: amzn.to/2TDramn
1/4” Extra Long Ratchet: amzn.to/3Nf0iyL
Trim Tool: amzn.to/3N6X9ks
1/4” Cordless Ratchet: amzn.to/3QJT2Oq
⬇️ Must Have Amazon Tools
1. Pocket Scanner: amzn.to/3wjDaXi
2. Jump Starter: amzn.to/2TKp4B3
3. Pro Level Scan Tool: amzn.to/2SYdhi4
4. 1/4” GP Socket Set: amzn.to/2TDramn
5. 3/8” GP Socket Set: amzn.to/3dUBQDY
6. Extension/Adapter Set: amzn.to/3hXXNmV
7. Rachet Set: amzn.to/3r1EAow
8. GearWrench Set: amzn.to/3hMn432
⬇️Download ForScan For Free | Ford Specific Diag Software ree
1. ForScan Link: forscan.org/home.html
2. Recommended OBD Adapter: amzn.to/3yFLMZJ
⬇️ Gear Used To Make this Video
1. Camera: amzn.to/3jTcRVw
2. B Roll Camera: amzn.to/2VcYq45
3. Microphone: amzn.to/2UrGgeA
4. Tripod: amzn.to/3qTaQdg
5. Lighting: amzn.to/3i0hyu7
6. Editing/Upload: amzn.to/2SXw8dg
7. Gorilla Pod: amzn.to/3yBWe4L
8. My Brain Power - / @flyingwrenches13
⬇️Socials
Facebook: / flyingwrenchesauto
Instagram: / flyingwrenchesauto
TikTok: www.tiktok.com/@flyingwrenchesauto
⬇️Business Inquires: mdunsford90@gmail.com
Disclaimer: Links included in this description may be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links in this description I may receive a small commission. There will be no additional charges to you. Thank you for supporting my channel so that I can continue to provide you my best quality content for free! 
Авто/Мото
2013 with 189,000 started leaking a few weeks ago. watched a hundred videos and decided on going over the top of the engine. bought all the tools that were needed but went with my 5/16" ratcheting combo wrench to remove because everything was so tight could barely move around. got all three bolts off (upper bolt closest to passenger fender you'll need to leave in pump and put in new pump on install) and took pics of pump and where the rotation was lined up to put new one in same spot. WHEN TAKING OFF PRACTICE PUTTING BACK IN RIGHT AWAY 2-3 TIMES. once new pump is prepped put back in and be careful of that pick up and screen thingy that sticks out, wiggle pump and should go back in fairly easy. took an hour and a half and i took my time and was patient. kept saying these three bolts aint gonna beat me out of $500! Good Luck and let it cool off first. cover engine with padding or thick blanket for comfort.
I love the kicking of the inner fender guard , too funny great video
Wow, how handy to put a vacuum pump on the backside of the engine and make it a complete nightmare to get to it.
Gravy.
It's not that bad really. The bad part is the pump is $190 and up.
I had a leaking vacuum pump so only had to buy a new gasket and gasket sealant. Removing, installing new o-ring and bolting back on took me like 30 mins give or take 5ish mins.
@@williammullens63 I guess, but in reality an electric vacuum pump mounted around the radiator area would have made more sense i think, a lot of german vehicles use electric water pumps, vacuum pumps, due to compactness and durability.
@Zoran S oh not arguing with ya lol. My comment was more aimed at how we over time have become less and less able to fix things
Great video, From technician to technician its nice to see a simple quick video of what it looks like back there instead of just feeling around.
My man. I thought my turbo was burning up. Thanks for the great info.
Man, I appreciate your videos immensely. Helped me out big time
Wow you explained that very well and took us through step by step you rock dude!! Keep up the good work!!👍👍🤝
did mine laying over the engine bay, not fun if your 6ft and 300lbs like me id go the wheel well route. used a pick to help getting the vacuum line off and an 8mm ratcheting swivel wrench fit nicely back there. biggest struggle was reinstalling and i believe i didnt do good on the silicone sealant and now i have to redo. dont rush like me take your time
Subscribed 👍 A+ content.. I appreciate your opinions and advice so much. 3.5 Eco 4x4 16 F150. I'm happy I found this channel.
My second leak within 6 months, back to the mechanic shop, thanks for the educational video, the ford expedition I own, is an amazing truck, my very first truck owner. ❤
Excellent video. Thanks for stomping on the fender liner. That made my day. Liked and Subscribed. 2011 EB. Gonna put this off until it's warmer than -8° in Minnesota.
Great energy in your videos. Funny seeing that fender liner getting stomped 🤣🤣
Sometimes you just gotta show them who’s boss
that is exactly the way I have done them.... no better instructions (down to that damn fender liner) 😅 thanks again man!!💪
Done it twice not a bad job. Getting two from bottom of truck and one from the top. Never went through liner.
Keep em coming 👍
2016 here. Just replaced. Took 20 minutes. I just lated on top of engine and used a racheting 8mm wrench to take it out the top. Took a couple minutes for the alignment but other then that is was cake.
Same with my 2016. No trouble reaching from the top, laying over the engine. I saw other YT vids calling for 89 inch-pounds on the 8mm bolts but not enough room to squeeze a T wrench in I went with what I call very tight plus a quarter turn. Sprayed everything clean of old oil leakage so can monitor for a few days or so and confirm no new leaks.
I had this leak, burnt oil smell from oil dripping on the manifold.
I replaced the vacuum pump with a new motorcraft one.
The leak didn't stop.
About 2 months later, the new vacuum pump failed.
Had the new vacuum pump replaced with a new-new motorcraft one.
The leak didn't stop.
About 2 months later, the new-new vacuum pump failed.
Replaced the new-new vacuum pump with a new-new-new Ford one.
And replaced the valve cover gasket at the same time to see if that was the leak.
The leak is now worse, it now smokes from dripping on the manifold.
Raided the pantry and strapped an empty tin can to catch the leaking oil from burning on the manifold.
$2 and no more burnt smell, no more smoke. And I ate the beans.
Currently looking for the right tree to trash this piece of crap into.
Lol. "$2 and no more burnt smell, no more smoke. And I ate the beans." Awesome.
Very helpful! Thank you!!
Thanks for sharing. Much appreciated 😊
Didn’t even take me an hour my 1st time doing it.. I ordered o ring kit for mine and rebuilt it. Also all my bolts came all the way out no problem and I did mine from the top.
Just lay across the top of the engine I just finished doing mine. Swivel rachet and 8mm socket. Hardest part is getting pump back in without messing up the gasket maker. Took about 25 minutes
Good video. I was able to remove all three bolts and also remove the pump from under the hood. Took me all of half hour. I have done this job twice now. Like you said, fairly easy task to do.
What year? Must be 2015 and up. Older years are much tighter. No way to do it from under hood either
Very good video, thanks.
Great video thank you for sharing
Thanx very helpful
Fender liner made me laugh! Sometimes they just whip right out, other times just mumbling and cut hands and kicking stuff haha
Did this job on my 2014 f150 the other day. No need to remove you wheel well. Did it from top. Little tricky but not that bad.
Any tips? It looks like a very tight place to fit any tools in there lol did u use RTV on the gasket ?
well made video!
Thank you
Did this replacement two weeks ago. The three bolts are very tight. Use a six point socket on a long handled 1/4 swivel ratchet to make sure you don't strip the bolts off. The fender liner removal was the hardest part of this job, take your time.
Until pulling one I didn’t know you could torque a 6mm bolt that tight without breaking. They made out of some good stuff for sure.
Yes. Don't try it with a 12pt.
What do you do if you replace it and your truck won't run right?
I replaced it yesterday and my wife went to drive it to work today and it won't accelerate and it's shaking really bad
@@keithhall8026did you find the issue?
Easy job go through the wheel well. We replace at least 2 pumps a week not including the cooler line fittings
Great Video
I have a 2017 Ford Transit with a 3.5 ecoboost with 221000kms.
I have a Cylinder 6 misfire.
I've put a new ignition coil on it,I've changed the spark plug,I've even changed the ignition coil to another Cylinder to see if that Cylinder would act up coil seems to be good.
I've changed the low fuel pressure pump valve on the bottom of the engine.
I've changed the top fuel pump no change.
Can you please help me ?
Just did this... All great advice! I broke the white clip however and need help finding a replacement
I am in the same situation, any luck?
If you push down on the top of the white connector, the line comes right off. No tools needed. Figured this out after breaking mine and getting a new line and clip from the auto wrecker :(
I don't think you can get just the clip as it isn't designed to come apart
I just changed mine on 2013 FX4 it’s a pain in the ass . I used a 8mil ratcheting wrench a step stool a thick towel to lay over the engine and a big inspection mirror a rag brake cleaner to make sure everything was cleaned and put the bolts back in the new one before installing it back in and Silicone it took me about an hour and half
Agreed. This video is a little misleading. I have a 2014 and it was one of the worst jobs I have ever done on a vehicle. There is no room. After 2014 they are much easier. Thet added about 2 more inches to the firewall. Getting the pump lined up and bolts started with the fresh rtv gasket was absolutely horrible.
One step stool, for us short shits. One 8mm ratchet wrench, (cheap gear wrench preferred, it's flat). Took 15 minutes for my 300lb anorexic being to change from the top side, leave the tire on. No lift needed!
Hahahahaha
Great video, quick question my valve cover is leaking on to where a little button is do you know what that is
My local ford dealership wanted 750 to get started plus cost of parts. I replaced it and it still leaks. I think I left some residue of RTV on the mating surface. Will take off and try again
i have a 2013 eco boost with 125k. this is the most major thing i’ve done to it. run motorcraft oil and filter with BG oil additive.
Sorry, "BG oil additive"?
I watch this channel just to hear how the word "oil" is said 😂
If left unattended for some time, can this cause a rough idle at times, and loss of mpg's?
This worst thing about this leak is how close it is to the turbo which gets hot enough the burn the oil residual from the leak. It will smoke and that some of that smoke gets drawn into the cabin. I had Ford dealership to repair my leak and after "4" attempts to repair the leak, they change that now it is my turbo oil line that is now leaking. They want $2k to repair the leak and since I have 128k miles on this engine, it only make sense to replace the engine not just the turbos for $4k. My 2015 F150 still looks new and I service it regularly. It will cost me $11k to put a new engine. Hopefully all issues with the leaks will be addressed permanently. I just can't afford a new truck.
I have f150 leaks on driver side my brother said was from oil hose line .
Well presented; keep up the good work mate.
Thank you!
Dang, Just replaced the gasket on mine this morning, hope my leak wasnt from the pump itself!
I did the valve cover gaskets but yeh still leaking is it easier to get to it with the cover off? thank you for the info
Are y'all seeing alot of leaks coming from the passenger valve cover in that area? Replaced the pump but still have a small leak that looks like the valve cover in the back.
Sorry have a question unrelated to video. Getting what sounds like iwe clicking/grinding sound. Put new iwe both sides and they put caps on the check valve. I guess looking half shafts but not the 4wd . Is that what is said to be done?
great video, do you have one for a 2017? I can't seem to locate the pump. Thanks
Would you use just silicone or something like Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker?
Changed my oil today on my 2013. Got a leak from this spot. Hope this is the issue. 200 miles shy of 100k.
If its not lined up correctly will it be able to bolt all the way up? Mines seem to have alil rocking in it before i bolt all the way down
Great vid, subbed. Just an FYI, there's an "i" in "oil".
Yes, but it's still pronounced 'awl' hehe
Does a leaking vac pump create smoke from the engine compartment?
SOS please help. Doing Vac pump replacement. The center rod with the filter on it fell off and is in the hole , cant even see it with a mirror. Where does that hole go? Any advice on what to do next?
Is it possible to pull the motor to the front a bit to get just that bit extra room
I got 2013 ford f150 3.5 got oil on bottom of engine but don't see it in drive way wonder if it could be valvcum pump
How can I tell if it’s leaking from the oil pump or the valve cover gasket? I know it should be obvious but sometimes it’s not. Just curious your thoughts? Thanks btw I’m a new subscriber 👍
After having ford problems as a young man. "Daddy loved fords" i thought fords wher just over rated and thanks to your videos makes my decision to never by a ford engineering is ridiculous
Replaced mine on a '13 fx4, now brakes are spongy when backing up. What did I miss or not connect right?
I know you did this a year Ago mason. I have actually pmd you on a couple of things before but you must not have seen it or had time to reply. This devil caused my truck to lose oil so rapidly it had 2 quarts of oil maybe a little more and got two of the rod bearings! I pulled it apart because my truck is lifted, cleaned the crank journals, replaced the bearings with some kings, put it back together and drove it for 60000 more miles. now it happened again with some help from the upr catch can o had installed freezing solid with condensate and I have once again repaired it with new bearings because I caught it early. my question is because the o ring gets so hard would it hurt to put rtv (i use hondabond on the entire gasket surface? I'm tired of this thing leaking lol. also when I reinstall mine my torque wrench is a bit too big to get back in there and I can only torque the outer two. any help on this is greatly appreciated
I have a 2011 F150 eco does that have, the same vacuum Pump
If you are nice to it it doesn't have issues.
I’m going to check my truck now to see, my fiance did all repairs to the truck and he died a few months ago, so here I am a woman going to a mechanic to help with the smell of smoke. 1st it was the seals on the manifold so they changed that the the break was stiff when I got to back so they changed a break booster part then the belt made a loud noise so they changed the belt and the tensioner now they said it the eco boost and it need to be changed and I have two it’s like over $2000. Smh I don’t get it if it was that from the beginning they why change so much. I’m going to check all you say so thanknyou
I have a customer with a 2017 Expedition 3.5 Eco. Rear main seal leak. Replaced it about a year ago and it looks to be a repeat offender. Anything common about this rear main failing and causing a leak that you know of?
Can you add the silicone to the head?
The fact that this part and its design was approved as this engines pump booster says all we should need to know about ford and their disregard for customer satisfaction and product quality. I assume their negligence is a result from decades of success and higher sales than all the others.... They knew and ignored the fact that even with the o-ring it still needed gasket sealant in two spots due to not lining up and sealing properly yet didn't care nor did they ever take accountability for said design flaw. Ecoboosts are ticking time bombs
Getting worse and worse !!!!
I fixed my leak but now I feel like I’m running rich and some black smoke…… everything runs great no engine codes
This is it. Heard the suction "gulp" and thought... wth? This is my silvers issue.
What are the symptoms of a bad vac pump?
what are the torc specs on the mounting bolts? @FlyingWrenches
That’s exactly where i have a developing oil leak! Dangit lol not looking forward to doing this one with my big hands
It’s not terrible. Just take your time and make sure everything is cleaned up well. Also realize it may be the valve cover. Both my valve cover and the pump were leaking. If in doubt do them both and be done with it, my opinion.
@@bigpicturethinking5620 it’s definitely the pump. Valve cover is still in excellent condition. That was the first thing I inspected when I saw the few drops of oil around my bell housing. Took a bit but I traced it to the pump. I have to change it and my exhaust manifolds
@@saddlebrook Well you’re in luck. Of those 2 jobs the pump is by far the easier one. It’s hard to imagine engineers were ok with that huge bolt spacing on the exhaust header. The updated ones seem to have better positioned holes for more even clamping pressure. Are you going to do the turbo coolant fittings as well at the same time?
@@bigpicturethinking5620 i definitely am. I have the full parts list now, just have to order it and make myself do it now haha
At about 90k miles, there was a burning smell and occasional smoke around the hood on the passenger side. Turned out to be a valve cover leaking oil on the turbo.
I have that same issue. Planning on replacing the pass side gasket next week. Seems like the oil is leaking and collecting under the pump, then running down to the turbo. Did that fix it?
@@jason258 It fixed it. Apparently it's a known issue with Gen 1 3.5s
@@surplussean3364 awesome, did you do it yourself?
@@jason258 No. I was under warranty still
I’ve got a 15 that I have replaced the vacuum pump and it still has a slight leak that has to be the valve cover gasket. I’m replacing the whole valve cover soon. Let me know if you have any tips After doing it Jason.
the video is over all good, but for the guys that need to see how its done without taking the cab off. are going to have more difficulty finishing the job.
We're do you find the clip on hose if it breaks
Is it always the pump? I replaced mine 13 months ago when I did my transmission and it's leaking already. I thought maybe I didn't use enough silicone.
Did you wet the gasket with oil before install or install dry? Torque setting for those three bolts? Thanks
The seal should be dry and I like to make sure the seal is not crooked in how it lays in the pump seal groove. The only spots that get anything are the areas where the cam cap (it’s not really a cap just an arc for the valve cover to seal to and the end surface where the vacuum pump seals) meets the head - that seam should get a dab of RTV like the Motorcraft sealer or equivalent. I usually clean the mating surfaces and apply the RTV directly to the seam instead of on the pump so I don’t get it on other things. The oil tube o-ring should get lubed before attempting installation of the pump and get an idea of the angle of the drive slot in the cam and turn the pump drive so it looks close before trying to install. You can do this repair from the top as well as from the wheel well. Mounting bolt torque is two stages, 89 in. lbs. and then an additional 45 degrees. This job looks worse than it is.
Have a 2012 F150 ecoboost built in late 2011. The vacuum pump is behind the left headlight. I have an oil leak at the right turbo and I'm thinking it is the oil drain/ supply lines o ring. Does this require the turbo to be removed to replace line? Or any other idea what could be leaking?
Did you figure out what your leak was? I am having a hard time finding what is leaking.
What if you replace and it still leaks? Used ford brand oem vacuum. I used high grade silicone around the edge of the pump instead of just the two spots that ford puts it on
Might want to pull it back off or tighten the bolts more. Just did mine and the filter stem fell off in the motor. Not fun, didn’t know it could come loose from the pump.
Awesome video. Fixed my problem.
But I have a slight misfire under a load, like if I am going 40mph and shift to 3rd or 4th gear and let the boost build up then it slightly pops and bumps like a misfire. Every once and awhile it puffs a black smoke out when it pops.
And it doesn’t always misfire only after long trips. Any idea off top of your head?
Hey Ryan, don’t know if you fixed this issue yet, but if you have an eco boost check out
1. The intercooler weephole mod
- consists of drilling a hole in your intercooler (I know I know) it is a common solution to this problem. You can find plenty of videos on it.
2. Your Spark plugs
- I had this same issue and found a crack in the porcelain of two of my spark plugs and when I replaced them it went away immediately.
Let me know if you’ve figured it out, it would help a lot thanks
High mileage ones also get V/C gaskets and the rear cap removed and sealed. Don't forget to unstomp the inner fender lining before ya put it back in that reversal procedure (grins)
Rear cap? What’s that?
@@bigpicturethinking5620 The rear cam journal cap where the vacuum pump is installed. Those caps will leak along with the V/C gasket right there where the pump meets the head. At our shop it all gets fixed.
@@gojudude 2nd time replacing this vacuum pump. The first time it leaked I just replaced the gasket and added silicon. Just replaced it with a dorman pump and it doesn't look like its leaking from the pump but it does look like either the rear cam journal or the valve cover gasket is?
@@dukestang If you're in the 150K+ mileage then the V/C gaskets are hard and the one on the right is probably leaking. I can't put pics up in these replies, but when you get the V/C off you'll see a small pocket right under the vacuum pump where oil always puddles, and always will. Hard gaskets allow a leak there. I also remove the rear journal where the pump slides in and clean and seal that with anaerobic sealer where it mates to the head.
@@gojudude thanks I’m at 103k now I haven’t worked for Ford for over 10 years now so wanted to ask someone that’s still doing all of this.
My 2012 F150 3.5 Ecoboost doesn't have the mechanical pump, mine has the electrical pump behind the driver side headlight
Am I missing something? My 2011 F150 3.5L Ecoboost does not have a vacuum pump located in that location.
on a 2015 F 150 3.5 L Ecco Boost what are the vacuum pump bolt
torque specs
What about if mine is a 2016 f150 it's leaking under the truck???.
is the vaccum pump above the passenger side turbo? it looks like my turbo is leaking oil but if its the vaccum pump that could make sense
It is!
Hey. My 2011 EB seems to be different for some reason. It doesn't look like this behind the passenger side head, though there is still a leak. When I called the local Ford shop, they quoted me "880.00 without the bracket". Could/would mine have a different style of VP?
Yes yours is different. It’s an electric pump behind the driver’s side headlight assembly (at least I’m pretty sure that’s where it is). If you have an oil leak it could be the valve cover gasket or valve cover.
Do you have any videos changing 2011 f150 3.5 Ecoboost turbo coolant lines?
I do!
I replace my vacuum pump on my f150 3.5 ecoboost 4x4 now I'm having trouble with my brake and how my truck performs
What about leaks in 2017-2018? I have a leak that's dripping from above somewhere on the passenger side. Thanks!
replaced mine on 2014 f150 3.5 echo boost, still have cabin oil smell when heater on, maybe valve cover leak ? any thoughts!
You figure this out?
If the white hose connector breaks, what is the replacement part for that hose or the name of it. Thanks in advance.
If you push down on the top of the white connector, the line comes right off. No tools needed. Figured this out after breaking mine and getting a new line and clip from the auto wrecker :(
Unfortunately, I didn't do as well as most of you guys. I replaced the vacuum pump through the wheel well (a struggle). Problem is that I sheared off one of the bolts into the block when tightening. There's so little space, that I can't imagine being able to extract it. I have the other two bolts installed, and I'm hoping and praying it all stays together with no major leaks. Any ideas, or anyone with a similar experience?
Looking up a vacuum pump for 2011 and 2012 F150 3.5 Ecoboost it only shows an electrical pump and you look up a 2013 F150 3.5 Ecoboost it starts showing a mechanical pump. I wish I had the mechanical pump on my 2012 cause it would be a lot cheaper if it fails.
Does this oil leak normally drip oil on to your exhaust manifold or pipe? I smell burnt oil bad from mine. Im pretty sure this is my culprit too.
Yes.
You figure it out? I've got the smell too.
i replace mine every 2 yrs...also runs the 4x4
I am trying to diagnose an issue with my 2013 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5l 6cyl. Will a leaking Vacuum Pump cause a slight overheating smell inside the truck?
Yes mine has same issue and I’m replacing it soon
I don’t have a cold engine leak. No oil in the driveway. Only when engine is running getting a oil smell inside of cab. Sometimes smoke from passenger side at a stop light. Wouldn’t this most likely be the valve cover?
Same problem
Same. Oil in passenger side, rear spark plug tube.
Did you figure this out? I'm about to replace the pump but wondering if I should go ahead and do the valve cover too.
Ok I replaced it now it won't run right its cutting out what do I do
Might be a dumb question but can change this without draining the oil?
Yes
I broke the white retaining clip - any idea what the part number is to replace that?
The clip is not available, you will need to replace the hose assembly.