Replaced the pump on my 2016. Removed the inner fender liner, EASY access! I had the old one out and new one in, took me about 20 minutes. No issues for a week, now today I am getting the burnt oil smell again!
So you just removed the wheel and wheel well liner? Also, some people are saying it was the pump and the valve cover gasket that leaked. I have a 2015 and I’m not sure which it is, or both.
Great Video! I had a oil smell that was slowly getting stronger, had no oil leaks under the hood, watched this video, went and verified that this vacuum booster was infact leaking and now am buying the seal.
This video was very informative. Unfortunately it did not fix my oil leak that appeared to be coming from the Vacuum Pump. It took me roughly 2 hours to complete this job. I think actual valve cove will be next. I just purchased my truck used from a Ford dealership. On the test drive i told them I smell fresh oil burning on the exhaust. They assured me it was residual from a valve cover gasket replacement. So i allowed a week to go by to ensure it was residual. Unfortunately not. So I did the vacuum pump seal 2 days ago, and cleaned all excess oil from the back of the head, block and exhaust. Still leaking.... thank you for your video.
That's frustrating, sounds very similar to my experience. I did the valve cover gasket first on mine and it ended up being the pump. Sounds like they're both a common problem on these turbos. I replaced the gasket and spark plug tube seals on mine, but a lot of guys buy a whole new valve cover with the tube seals already installed. I guess it's not too expensive and saves some work. Hope it goes well for you, thanks for watching.
@@MasterJacks well I appreciate you taking the time to post the video. I used the same approach you did as well. Over the top of the head. Wasn't bad as it initially looked. Most time consuming part was getting the pump back behind the head past the harness, and properly indexing the cam drive. Once rotating the drive behind the block, there was a considerable amount of oil released from the pump. So like you had stated in one of your previous replies... i will do a thorough clean, and diagnosis before I purchase a new valve cover. I can smell the oil burn, but can't see blue smoke like I was before. And the odor coincides with coming to a stop. 🤞it's residual. Thanks again.
I can't thank you enough for this video and information. I've seen that so many folks have spent endless amounts of money trying to identify this exact situation. And I darn near became one of them. Outstanding post!!
Thankyou sir! Dealer tried telling me it was rear main seal leaking.. i got under today and traced up to there and didnt know what it was leaking.. i will now be able to fix myself.. thanks!
+1 here too. They love to tell your rear main seal leak without looking if it's coming higher. I had two shops misdiagnose it same way. 1500 repair vs. $20 DIY
I just installed one of these bad boys and had no vacuum whatsoever, I realized I might not have aligned the pump in the first place IDK. Im about to redo this again with youre instructions. Thanks friend!
Great video, very informative. I have the same leak and couldn't figure out what the hell was actually leaking until I came across your video. Thank you for posting this info for the rest of us!!!
Great video. I biggest concern of doing this was wrecking the vacuum hose connector due to not knowing how to disengage/disconnect it.I've seen others show that they broke the white tab taking it off. Showing that makes all the difference to me. Thanks!!
more often than not.. the oil leak is coming from the back of the vacuum pump housing. not the o-ring seal where it meets the cylinder head. sooo replace the whole pump... not just the $10 gasket.
Good video man. I have an oil leak dripping in all the right spots, im gonna order that seal and just change it first because this looks the most possible. When i run my auto start the inside of my truck has smoke in it from the oil hitting the exhaust manifold
I noticed oil on my drain pan and transmission area. Didn't see the leak source but it is more on the passenger side. Thought I'd look on RUclips and boom "vacuum pump oil leak" seems to be common to some degree. Looks like an easy fix I suppose. Looks like I'll be buying me this o-ring soon.
took me halfway through to realize you were using a mirror! lol. Recently have seen and smelled smoke coming from my passenger side every now and again and couldn't see where it was coming from.
The ring leaking is only part of the problem. The part itself leaks on the backside as well where the back cover is mounted to the part. The best thing to do is to replace the whole entire part. The part costs anywhere from $100 to $250 depending who you get it from.
I just replaced the pump on my 2013 F150 EcoBoost, Personally I would not just replaced the gasket, apparently after reading some Forums they also leak from the back. Also changing the pump this way is the hardest way to do it, If you remove the passenger side wheel and wheel well, it's easier to reach and remove the bolts.
24 hrs to fully cure, though I've run many vehicles well before that and haven't experienced problems. I used Permatex RTV Ultra Black. I have an amazon link in the video description. Thanks for watching!
Will this seal cause the smoking on the turbo. The reason I ask is because I’ve already replaced the valve cover gaskets, but it’s still smoking on the passenger side turbo.
Yes, thanks for the video. I recently disabled and like working in my garage. I am about to insall pump. Can you tell me where I can get service manual? Having problems getting screws in
Could this be whats gling in with my truck? I can see smoke coming from the engine passenger side. Fills up the cab and smell like a mix or something burning but not like exhaust
@@Dusty696969 It's very likely. It drips oil right onto the passenger side exhaust manifold. The air intake for the cab is right there too so you'll definitely smell it. It's more common than the valve cover gasket, but that's something else that could cause the same symptoms.
I replace my passenger valve cover gasket and vacuum pump and i still getting a small oil leak down my exhaust. Any idea what else it could be ? Turbo fittings look fine
That's a bummer. At least you're not out too much doing the easier of the two repairs. I had done the valve cover gasket first and mine ended up being the pump. Best of luck, hope you get to the bottom of it.
Thanks for the video, I think I have the exact same problem in my ‘15 eco boost! Did you happen to replace any other O-rings or just the main one the video shows? Thanks
Did you make the entire repair from the top, or did you have to come from underneath? Just wondering if I can knock it out from top or will putting it on a lift be best?
@@milesdavidson3179 I just did this job a week ago. I just swapped the entire pump. you gotta take it out anyway, so just replace with a new one was my thought. I got the same "FOMOCO" part from Amazon for around $124.
Did you have any trouble with the little brass piece staying in while reassembling? I "lost" mine taking it out but fortunately found it after hours of searching. It had fallen on top of the frame mount.
How can I be so sure that this is my exact oil leak, mine doesn’t smoke regularly, its madly inconsistent. I almost feel like it seems that it only smoke from that side when I run the defroster and AC.
I think you give the wrong idea about the reason for the vacuum pump on a turbo charged GAS engine, The vacuum the vac pump produces is needed to operate the power brake booster and other accessories,like the heater and A/C controls, it does not provide vacuum to the intake manifold. Thanks for a good video on the replacement process!
Made this repair yesterday and occasionally still get a drop after driving it, you guys think it’s just the old oil that was there still dripping down the head because i couldn’t clean the whole head just where the pump went
I dont know what I'm doing wrong, did it step by step and was ok for a few days. When I hit the gas a bit harder I get a leak again. Not sure if I should add a bit more torque on those bolts or maybe use more RTV silicone. Anyone had the same issue? Thanks.
can you explain the RTV application a bit more? You state that a bead needs to be applied, but it appears that you are applying it to the bolt areas with your finger. Please advise as I haven't seen anyone else on youtube mention the rtv. Thanks again!
Thanks for the question. On the back of the cylinder head there is a seam where a bearing cap adjoins the head. The vacuum pump mounts flush against that seam where the cap and head come together. Ford states to run an 8mm bead of high performance engine RTV silicone along that seam to prevent leaks. Because the area does not have great access, I applied the "bead" with my finger using a mirror. Hope that helps!
My shop did an ultra violet oil test (so they say) and let me know the vacuum pump and valve gasket are leaking. Sounds to me like I should replace the o-ring on the pump to start and check back for other leaks after a good cleaning. Where did you order your o-ring from? Thanks for the great video.
I got the o-ring from the Ford dealer. It was under $10. After I replaced it, I had to clean it a few times (just sprayed it with brake clean) until I got all the residual oil. Within a few days it was completely dry with no sign of any leaks. I'd definitely start with the vacuum pump seal before diving into the valve cover gasket.
Awesome. Getting a gasket from the dealer tonight. $7 and some change for Uncle Sam. At least this leak should be fixed and we’ll see if that’s it. Shop wants to replace the whole pump. Glad I found this video since the only issue seems to be the leak and not any braking performance.
@@SpicyRok7482 couldn’t reach to change the parts and I’m not THAT proficient with some work so found a good recommended mechanic who used to own the same truck and was familiar. Used my part and fixed it extremely reasonable. Very happy to have found him as this truck is not aging well…..
@@brodiebirkel My own '13 w/70K mi. ( Nothin' Major...YET. ) seems to have a seep/leak in the same general area. Will investigate R&R then D&A to Repl ALL O-ring seals ( RKX Reseal Kit ) since I may have the pump in hand. Time will tell.
When a normally aspirated engine is running, vacuum is present in the intake manifold. This vacuum acts as a power source to other systems such as brake assist, 4wd activation, crankcase ventilation, etc. In a turbo-charged engine, the intake manifold is actually pressurized during boost. The camshaft-driven vacuum pump provides vacuum to these ancillary systems independent of intake manifold pressure.
Fun fact: the Explorer and other transversely mounted 3.5 Ecoboosts don't have a vacuum pump. They do have a venturi device to provide vacuum even under boost though. The only reason the F-150 has a vacuum pump is because the engine doesn't create enough vacuum for the application.
@@Batman-uz8xo I have a faint burnt oil smell coming from my air vents and I think this pump is the cause. the vents draw air right above this location. Did you get yours fixed?
I had this issue a couple years ago after smelling burnt oil in the cab when stopped. The dealer found the leak from the vacuum pump and said they had to pull the cab to get to it because I had a 4 inch lift.... several thousand dollars later, under warranty, the vacuum pump was replaced. The smell is back again and my gal is no longer under warranty. I can probably do this repair myself but how did you remove it without pulling the cab and how long did it take? I have a feeling the dealer saw $$$$ when they found out my warranty was with another company.
It's pretty easy to do as seen from the installation in this video. A mirror is helpful, but plenty of space to do it without cab removal! That sounds like a nightmare. Thanks for watching.
Yes the back of the pump will leak along with where it mates with the engine. You are better off spending the $120 and getting a new pump or plan on doing this job again when the case starts to leak.
You could put a little oil on the small o-ring. I didn't put any oil on the big o-ring. I put a little silicone on the back of the head on the groove where the bearing cap and the head meet.
I have the exact same problem/year/engine as the truck in the video. The smell has been getting stronger and I can visibly see oil leaking from the threaded bolt hole near the corner of the valve cover. Did you ever get a check engine light, low pressure oil warning, or loss of MPG? Great video btw
@@MasterJacks Fixed the leak Thanks to your video. I took off the passenger side fender well and got a really good look at the bolts and the oil dripping onto the turbo & manifold.
Replaced the pump on my 2016. Removed the inner fender liner, EASY access! I had the old one out and new one in, took me about 20 minutes. No issues for a week, now today I am getting the burnt oil smell again!
So you just removed the wheel and wheel well liner? Also, some people are saying it was the pump and the valve cover gasket that leaked. I have a 2015 and I’m not sure which it is, or both.
Great Video! I had a oil smell that was slowly getting stronger, had no oil leaks under the hood, watched this video, went and verified that this vacuum booster was infact leaking and now am buying the seal.
I have been trying to figure out where that leak and smell was coming from. I could see it but had no idea what it was. Thanks so much. Awesome....
This video was very informative. Unfortunately it did not fix my oil leak that appeared to be coming from the Vacuum Pump. It took me roughly 2 hours to complete this job. I think actual valve cove will be next. I just purchased my truck used from a Ford dealership. On the test drive i told them I smell fresh oil burning on the exhaust. They assured me it was residual from a valve cover gasket replacement. So i allowed a week to go by to ensure it was residual. Unfortunately not. So I did the vacuum pump seal 2 days ago, and cleaned all excess oil from the back of the head, block and exhaust. Still leaking.... thank you for your video.
That's frustrating, sounds very similar to my experience. I did the valve cover gasket first on mine and it ended up being the pump. Sounds like they're both a common problem on these turbos. I replaced the gasket and spark plug tube seals on mine, but a lot of guys buy a whole new valve cover with the tube seals already installed. I guess it's not too expensive and saves some work. Hope it goes well for you, thanks for watching.
@@MasterJacks well I appreciate you taking the time to post the video. I used the same approach you did as well. Over the top of the head. Wasn't bad as it initially looked. Most time consuming part was getting the pump back behind the head past the harness, and properly indexing the cam drive. Once rotating the drive behind the block, there was a considerable amount of oil released from the pump. So like you had stated in one of your previous replies... i will do a thorough clean, and diagnosis before I purchase a new valve cover. I can smell the oil burn, but can't see blue smoke like I was before. And the odor coincides with coming to a stop. 🤞it's residual. Thanks again.
I can't thank you enough for this video and information. I've seen that so many folks have spent endless amounts of money trying to identify this exact situation. And I darn near became one of them. Outstanding post!!
I'm hoping that's what is wrong with ours bit of an oil leak that hasn't yet been diagnosed. Now I gotta place to look
Just had mine replaced. That pump and both valve cover gaskets 1100 dollars! No more stinky smell with the heat on.
Thankyou sir! Dealer tried telling me it was rear main seal leaking.. i got under today and traced up to there and didnt know what it was leaking.. i will now be able to fix myself.. thanks!
+1 here too. They love to tell your rear main seal leak without looking if it's coming higher.
I had two shops misdiagnose it same way. 1500 repair vs. $20 DIY
I have been told my rear main seal is leaking as well. Im going to look into this
Nice quick informative video, no 10 mins of babbling BS. Love it! Thank you
I just installed one of these bad boys and had no vacuum whatsoever, I realized I might not have aligned the pump in the first place IDK. Im about to redo this again with youre instructions. Thanks friend!
Great video, very informative. I have the same leak and couldn't figure out what the hell was actually leaking until I came across your video. Thank you for posting this info for the rest of us!!!
Great video. I biggest concern of doing this was wrecking the vacuum hose connector due to not knowing how to disengage/disconnect it.I've seen others show that they broke the white tab taking it off. Showing that makes all the difference to me. Thanks!!
White replacement clip.
NAPA part number 730-7381
Ford 5/8" fuel line retaining clip
Bevel side goes toward the end of the hose.
Thanks for the video buddy! Kept smelling burning smell and oil dripping on exhaust. Finally going to get this fixed
Thanks For the video I thought for sure the rear main seal was out , what a relief !
more often than not.. the oil leak is coming from the back of the vacuum pump housing. not the o-ring seal where it meets the cylinder head. sooo replace the whole pump... not just the $10 gasket.
Did you put RTV in the two areas at 3 and 9:00 (roughly) on the new pump?
@@dlamarca yes.
Good video man. I have an oil leak dripping in all the right spots, im gonna order that seal and just change it first because this looks the most possible. When i run my auto start the inside of my truck has smoke in it from the oil hitting the exhaust manifold
Always wondered were the smoke came from
I've read to change ALL the gaskets... including the one on the outer casing?
I noticed oil on my drain pan and transmission area.
Didn't see the leak source but it is more on the passenger side.
Thought I'd look on RUclips and boom "vacuum pump oil leak" seems to be common to some degree.
Looks like an easy fix I suppose.
Looks like I'll be buying me this o-ring soon.
took me halfway through to realize you were using a mirror! lol. Recently have seen and smelled smoke coming from my passenger side every now and again and couldn't see where it was coming from.
It's called a"smoking mirror "
😂😅
Thanks just installed mine yet exactly like you did this one yet it keeps on leaking oil
The ring leaking is only part of the problem. The part itself leaks on the backside as well where the back cover is mounted to the part. The best thing to do is to replace the whole entire part. The part costs anywhere from $100 to $250 depending who you get it from.
Thank you Amijo good video
I just replaced the pump on my 2013 F150 EcoBoost, Personally I would not just replaced the gasket, apparently after reading some Forums they also leak from the back. Also changing the pump this way is the hardest way to do it, If you remove the passenger side wheel and wheel well, it's easier to reach and remove the bolts.
How long should you wait till you start it up once done? And what RTV you used? Thanks
24 hrs to fully cure, though I've run many vehicles well before that and haven't experienced problems. I used Permatex RTV Ultra Black. I have an amazon link in the video description. Thanks for watching!
Will this seal cause the smoking on the turbo. The reason I ask is because I’ve already replaced the valve cover gaskets, but it’s still smoking on the passenger side turbo.
Yes, thanks for the video. I recently disabled and like working in my garage. I am about to insall pump. Can you tell me where I can get service manual? Having problems getting screws in
Could this be whats gling in with my truck? I can see smoke coming from the engine passenger side. Fills up the cab and smell like a mix or something burning but not like exhaust
@@Dusty696969 It's very likely. It drips oil right onto the passenger side exhaust manifold. The air intake for the cab is right there too so you'll definitely smell it. It's more common than the valve cover gasket, but that's something else that could cause the same symptoms.
I replace my passenger valve cover gasket and vacuum pump and i still getting a small oil leak down my exhaust. Any idea what else it could be ? Turbo fittings look fine
Will this drip/spray oil on/towards underside of pass turbo? I was doing turbo adapters and that area is covered in oil.
Lost the little brass piece on the vacuum pump that filters the oil don’t know where it could be do I have to buy another new pump?
You probably shouldn't be working on cars if you are that shall we say challenged mechanically lol
Is the gasket the same for The 2014?
Great video thanks
How hard is this to do
How much would I expect to pay for this repair at a reputable repair shop?
I replaced the pump and I still have the burnt oil smell.. I heard the valve covers themselves can warp or the gasket will fail.
That's a bummer. At least you're not out too much doing the easier of the two repairs. I had done the valve cover gasket first and mine ended up being the pump. Best of luck, hope you get to the bottom of it.
You mentioned the repair procedure calls for the silicone sealant. Where do you find repair procedures?
I used Mitchell ProDemand owned by SnapOn. The images and procedures within that software denote "Courtesy of Ford Motor Company"
Did you have oil on the little pan below the oil filter with this type of oil leak?
Thanks for the video, I think I have the exact same problem in my ‘15 eco boost! Did you happen to replace any other O-rings or just the main one the video shows? Thanks
I just did the big one. It might be good to replace the smaller one too since it's coming up on 10 years old
What if I don’t change it??
Did you make the entire repair from the top, or did you have to come from underneath? Just wondering if I can knock it out from top or will putting it on a lift be best?
I was able to do the whole thing from the top.
Anyone use the Dorman 904-858 Vacuum Pump for this?
Do you know if that gasket will fit a 2013 f150? The vacuum pumps look similar, so I don’t see why it wouldn’t be the same gasket.
@Edward Mendez I’m here trying to figure that out too. Did you ever figure it out?
I’ve got a 14, any answers?
@@milesdavidson3179 I just did this job a week ago. I just swapped the entire pump. you gotta take it out anyway, so just replace with a new one was my thought. I got the same "FOMOCO" part from Amazon for around $124.
Did you have any trouble with the little brass piece staying in while reassembling? I "lost" mine taking it out but fortunately found it after hours of searching. It had fallen on top of the frame mount.
I'd try some transmission assembly gel. It's a clean grease that holds things in place for assembly then dissolves and dilutes into the oil when warm.
How can I be so sure that this is my exact oil leak, mine doesn’t smoke regularly, its madly inconsistent.
I almost feel like it seems that it only smoke from that side when I run the defroster and AC.
How much would this cost to fix at the dealership?
$500 or so
I think you give the wrong idea about the reason for the vacuum pump on a turbo charged GAS engine, The vacuum the vac pump produces is needed to operate the power brake booster and other accessories,like the heater and A/C controls, it does not provide vacuum to the intake manifold. Thanks for a good video on the replacement process!
I probably did say that wrong. The intake is charged/pressurized which is why you need a pump to run vacuum items. Nice catch, thanks for watching!
Made this repair yesterday and occasionally still get a drop after driving it, you guys think it’s just the old oil that was there still dripping down the head because i couldn’t clean the whole head just where the pump went
Great Video. Thanks
I dont know what I'm doing wrong, did it step by step and was ok for a few days. When I hit the gas a bit harder I get a leak again. Not sure if I should add a bit more torque on those bolts or maybe use more RTV silicone. Anyone had the same issue? Thanks.
Did you wet the gasket with oil prior to install or mount dry?
I watched another RUclips repair video for this that said the o-ring goes on wet.
can you explain the RTV application a bit more? You state that a bead needs to be applied, but it appears that you are applying it to the bolt areas with your finger. Please advise as I haven't seen anyone else on youtube mention the rtv. Thanks again!
Thanks for the question. On the back of the cylinder head there is a seam where a bearing cap adjoins the head. The vacuum pump mounts flush against that seam where the cap and head come together. Ford states to run an 8mm bead of high performance engine RTV silicone along that seam to prevent leaks. Because the area does not have great access, I applied the "bead" with my finger using a mirror. Hope that helps!
Anybody ever get a thumping sound from the vacuum pump?
My shop did an ultra violet oil test (so they say) and let me know the vacuum pump and valve gasket are leaking. Sounds to me like I should replace the o-ring on the pump to start and check back for other leaks after a good cleaning. Where did you order your o-ring from? Thanks for the great video.
I got the o-ring from the Ford dealer. It was under $10. After I replaced it, I had to clean it a few times (just sprayed it with brake clean) until I got all the residual oil. Within a few days it was completely dry with no sign of any leaks. I'd definitely start with the vacuum pump seal before diving into the valve cover gasket.
Awesome. Getting a gasket from the dealer tonight. $7 and some change for Uncle Sam. At least this leak should be fixed and we’ll see if that’s it. Shop wants to replace the whole pump. Glad I found this video since the only issue seems to be the leak and not any braking performance.
@@bfbirkel Replacement of the perfectly fine vacuum pump helps fund the shop owner's brand-new Cigarette boat.
@@SpicyRok7482 couldn’t reach to change the parts and I’m not THAT proficient with some work so found a good recommended mechanic who used to own the same truck and was familiar. Used my part and fixed it extremely reasonable. Very happy to have found him as this truck is not aging well…..
@@brodiebirkel My own '13 w/70K mi. ( Nothin' Major...YET. ) seems to have a seep/leak in the same general area. Will investigate R&R then D&A to Repl ALL O-ring seals ( RKX Reseal Kit ) since I may have the pump in hand.
Time will tell.
What is the purpose of the vacuum pump?
When a normally aspirated engine is running, vacuum is present in the intake manifold. This vacuum acts as a power source to other systems such as brake assist, 4wd activation, crankcase ventilation, etc. In a turbo-charged engine, the intake manifold is actually pressurized during boost. The camshaft-driven vacuum pump provides vacuum to these ancillary systems independent of intake manifold pressure.
MasterJacks thanks! Mechanic said he found mine leaking and I’ve had a rattle so hopefully this fixes both issues
Fun fact: the Explorer and other transversely mounted 3.5 Ecoboosts don't have a vacuum pump. They do have a venturi device to provide vacuum even under boost though. The only reason the F-150 has a vacuum pump is because the engine doesn't create enough vacuum for the application.
you are my new god
what is vaccum pressure ? is it vaccum or pressure?
Irrelevant, whatever it is it leaks
Was there any visible smoke coming from the leaking seal?
Not from the vacuum pump itself. The oil was dripping down onto the RH exhaust manifold and smoking/burning.
@@MasterJacks so when it did smoke was there any coming in the cab from the air vents?
@@Batman-uz8xo don't remember if it was visible, but could definitely smell the burnt oil through the vents in the cab when at a stop or slow speeds.
@@MasterJacks ok thanks. I may have to replace mine. Your video helped a lot 👍🏼
@@Batman-uz8xo I have a faint burnt oil smell coming from my air vents and I think this pump is the cause. the vents draw air right above this location. Did you get yours fixed?
I had this issue a couple years ago after smelling burnt oil in the cab when stopped. The dealer found the leak from the vacuum pump and said they had to pull the cab to get to it because I had a 4 inch lift.... several thousand dollars later, under warranty, the vacuum pump was replaced. The smell is back again and my gal is no longer under warranty. I can probably do this repair myself but how did you remove it without pulling the cab and how long did it take? I have a feeling the dealer saw $$$$ when they found out my warranty was with another company.
It's pretty easy to do as seen from the installation in this video. A mirror is helpful, but plenty of space to do it without cab removal! That sounds like a nightmare. Thanks for watching.
Nick and Anna you can take the liner form the fender well out and get to it easier..
Do you think AT-205 would have stopped that leak?
I don't have experience with leak stoppers. I've heard they can be effective on small leaks, but I find myself skeptical.
@@MasterJacks I was testing you.
@@blackericdenice lol
Does anyone know if the pump itself can be leaking, or is it the seal?
Yes the back of the pump will leak along with where it mates with the engine. You are better off spending the $120 and getting a new pump or plan on doing this job again when the case starts to leak.
hello what you put around the seal, silicone or oil
You could put a little oil on the small o-ring. I didn't put any oil on the big o-ring. I put a little silicone on the back of the head on the groove where the bearing cap and the head meet.
2017+ 3.5EB is a new engine design. I believe they do not have this pump.
I have the exact same problem/year/engine as the truck in the video. The smell has been getting stronger and I can visibly see oil leaking from the threaded bolt hole near the corner of the valve cover. Did you ever get a check engine light, low pressure oil warning, or loss of MPG? Great video btw
Mine didn't come with any light or warning, just the smell and leak.
@@MasterJacks Fixed the leak Thanks to your video. I took off the passenger side fender well and got a really good look at the bolts and the oil dripping onto the turbo & manifold.
you mentioned a turbo? is this a turbo only issue?
Yes, this is turbo engine problem. The 5.0L and other non-turbo engines do not have a vacuum pump.
TORQUE TO YIELD BOLTS SHOULD NOT BE RE-USED, THEY WILL SNAP OFF.
otherwise just snug them back up, skip the 45 degree.
Well they didn't, and nobody else has had that issue
I just had mine truck in and they said 1 bolt is seized and they would have to pull the engine if it snapped. $8000
190,000 on my 2014 3.5 and it is ju8st now leaking.
Great video, very helpful. Thank you !!! 👍🏼
Wow, that was a b!tch of a job! I hope to never do that again
We all know why I am here.