No. He’s a parts slinger that is wildly over repairing the vehicle. 25 year senior master and I’ve never seen anything but phasers and water pumps fail on these.
@@CoachJay7212No you are not correct. I have a F-150 and if you don't change the phasers it affects the timing chain and parts start to break off and flow through the system until you need a new engine! Technically has left you behind Sir!
Took my truck up and had this service done and have zero regrets about it. Runs quieter than new and I feel at peace putting another 100k on it without worry! Excellent repair facility and top notch mechanics with integrity!! Thanks again!
@ 2017 model. I work swing shift so I took it up on the weekend and used the key drop and then picked it up the next weekend finished. Did great work and the new oil pan gives me some leak assurance to drive it a while longer without leaks popping up. Just 106k miles on it now. Runs like a top.
Thank you for this! I'm a VWAG guy who got stuck doing this job on an '18 F150. Every single hose crimp was split, driver's side valve cover was cracked exactly where you said it would be. Already did the water pump but customer wants to do thermostat housing as well. You saved me and my customer a lot of headaches. To anyone doing this job, I lifted the cab. I'm a short dude and I feel like I'd have had a really bad time trying to do this in the truck. Cab removal was pretty dang easy. would totally recommend it.
Can confirm, had the phaser job done at 63k miles. 2k miles later my water pump failed and left me stranded in the middle of nowhere. I wish I watched this earlier!!!
My 2019 f-150 made it to about 85k before it started to rattle. Did the timing job myself with all ford parts with the latest phasers. Did chains, tensioners, guides, crank sprocket, water pump, belts and components, thermostat. It’s a job for sure. Toughest thing was torquing that crank bolt. I think mine lasted longer due to start/stop being disabled.
I can’t believe that other techs will question you and ask you. Why would you change the chains if you’re going that far into it? Why would you even keep the same chains on! Lord have mercy I’ve been watching you since I started and I’m always watching videos trying to learn as much as I can And ford definitely is not the only one that has problems. The owner of our shop owns different dealerships so the good thing about that is that we have to work on different makes and models and Ford is not the only one. love your videos dude I’ve learned so much from you and I really appreciate, you making these videos God bless you
Yeah I hate that Ford loves to use plastic in all the worst places. Like the plastic on the exhaust heat exchanger on the Powerboost that leaks coolant all over the driveway.
Just had a heater core hose fitting Crack in half and pist out all the coolant and overheated the engine. Time for a new headgasket and hopefully the heads aren't cracked
All those coolant lines should be upgraded to a regular line without the crimp thing. Brian you are right to replace all this stuff to make the engine last longer and give a better result to the customer. That table with parts is amazing to see.
Dorman has heater hoses for the 5.4 that use these same kinds of lines, they are metal with crimp connectors. I have them on my 5.4, no issues, but I don't know if the same exists for the 3.5.
I can't tell you how many people look at me like I'm "nuts" when I say, from a performance and drivability standpoint, the engineering is incredible........ from a maintenance/repair standpoint, the complexity and synthetic (plastic) materials used are just a nightmare waiting to happen....and when one thing "fails", there is no such thing as a "simple fix', you're looking at big $$$'s by comparison even just for the parts. have to take it to a shop..... now it's really going to be expensive. I understand Ford saving assembly time/money by going with crimp connectors on the water hoses BUT, from a repair standpoint, it makes no sense... unless they are really going with the "who cares about the customer after warranty" approach- which is probably the ground truth. Great job of the Vids Brian!
Yup. I put a used engine in a 2016 Expedition 3-4 months ago due to a broken main timing chain. Worst engine replacement job I have ever done. If I had a 2 post and the space, I would have pulled the body off for that job. But had to work with what I have.
@@mph5896 I've done it both ways and like pulling the body off the most because it's less stressful on the hands and back. Takes about the same time either way.
Ford invented the "Dealer Trap" long before they put it into mass production in the late 80's leading the compitition in design by 5years of follow the leader. Until you have what the automotive market is today.
I can see why someone who doesn't have one wpuld say "why have one of these then?". I just had BSG do the full 6k tune up on my 2019. I drove 5.5 hours to get there and stayed over night in a hotel while Brian and Alex did my work. Here's what I can tell you. My truck had 135,000 on it, was at the VERY beginning of cold start phaser rattle for the second time in it's life - the first time was at 35,000 and phasers were done under warranty at that time (of course replaced with the same pieces of trash as origi al at that time). I strive for efficiency in my truck and even though I'm on 34.5" tires with a 2" level a d trimmed air dam I still was making 22.5mpg average on The freeway when I brought it in to BSG. On the trip home I averaged 24.2mpg (real calculation, nit dash cluster). My engine temp is cooler, tra s temp is 10 to 12 degrees cooler and my engine runs and sounds like a zwiss watch minus the stupid cold turbo valve rattle. Brian and Alex are consummate professionals. I had only two special requests when I dropped my truck off and those were #1 tra s flyid/filter change and #2 "if you see ANYTHING under my hood that you would change or update if this was your personal truck please go ahead and replace it - I gave Brian a blank check to spend whatever he wanted. All said and done he replaced all the oarts in the vid minus oil pan (already have full aluminum) and I was out the door a couple hundred less than I had assumed I'd be at. Can you even imagine what ur bill would look like at a dealership if you gave them a blank check and a blank signed service order? These guys absolutely earn the trust and respect they receive and I wish I had a huge media outlet so I could tell everyone how much a customer appreciates Brian's no nonsense approach and fast/accurate/complete service.
I'm the same distance away... My wife is gonna think I'm nuts but if it's that quick of a turn around (understanding it will be based on schedule openings) I think it will be worth it. I'm only at 89k and it has had phasers twice I believe.
This is awesome to hear 👌🙌🏼. Having some enthusiast cars this is common practice and imo should absolutely be for any vehicle we care for. Where is he located ? I’ll be searching after I watch this video
Good info. All brands have their issues. Manufacturers are constantly looking for ways to make more profit. This is still way cheaper than buying a new truck!
The problem here is their profit has become our added cost of ownership. IMHO that makes the value of what we are buying less. If Ford thinks a $6K bill every 70 thousand miles is okay?. Then For should reduce the price of the truck by 18K. I know I expect my truck to last more that 150K now a days . Even if I paid only 45K for the truck I'd still be mad at a $6,000.00 Bill every 70 K miles.... Not okay..
@@BrianFox I have a 2010 Ford Expedition with the 5.4L 2wd with 265,000 original engine and trans and decided to not buy a new truck and spent the $6,500 and had everything replaced. The truck driver better than new and the mpg have improved. I agree that ford has went down hill with all the timing chain, phasers and etc... These vehicles cost to much for them not to last more than 100,000 miles before needed to have them rebuilt.
Excellent tips in your video! My truck had the cam phasers replaced under warranty just before I bought it. It's a 2018 F150 and I bought in back in October of 2021. Checked my crimped hose fittings, they were all cracked. Going to replace them all and the de-gas bottle cap in the next few days. I've already done the water pump, and rad hoses. I couldn't find an OEM aluminum oil pan and had to replace only the plastic one. Eventually I'll get the aluminum oil pan upgrade. Thanks again for the excellent information in your videos! My truck has over 176,000 kilometers (approximately 110,000 miles) on it. Your videos are keeping my truck alive.
At 60K miles my timing chain needed replacement on my 2012 F150 XLT. That was 4 years ago and I spent 3 days on the driveway doing it myself. The timing chain is made of mild steel. I kid you not. Spent $3,000 for parts only. Dealer could not supply me the torque to yield bolts for the phasers. In fact the dealer said that they need them themselves. It took a lot of head scratching to come up with a method to reused torque to yield bolts. Basically you aim to torque them to what they were before you removed them. If you redo the torque to yield procedure you will break the bolts. Surprisingly that job was successful. Because there were so many opportunities for failure I was jumpy for the next year. Then the right turbo went and I replaced it. Not a fun job. Right valve cover cracked so that got JB welded. Front brake flex lines turned into one way valves and cooked my rotors and pads. My fuel economy was bad due to brakes partially applied all the time. Air conditioner pump is done. Transmission oil pan rusted through. I am only giving you some of the problems I had to deal with that F150. Conclusions; Ford has deliberately designed the F150 so that it can't be easily serviced by the home mechanic. Ford uses the cheapest parts possible to the point that it is criminal. Ford does not provide adequate information for the home mechanic. Ford makes more money off of servicing their vehicles than making them. Ford designs their vehicles to fall apart in about 10 years. Ford customers have had it. Ford might be going out of business.
Brian, you're the most thorough, honest tech out there. Too bad you're so far away, or I'd have you work on my cars. BTW, while you're already in there, as a customer, I'd appreciate it if you'd replace the serpentine belt, tensioner and idlers, too. Like you said, "one and done."
@@FordTechMakuloco I've heard from more than one source that the subpar cam phasers were ONLY on 2017 - 2020 years.... I've read of eariler 3.5's getting 300-400K without needing any internal work done... true ??
@@FordTechMakulocoI have a 2013 Ecoboost with the original belts with 132K miles on them. As far as I can tell they look good but realistically are they overdo in being replaced?
I've heard of planned obsolescence, but this is rediculas! I'm sure other manufacturers have their problems but this is a nightmare for real! Thanks for this video Brian.
My 2018 f150 has experienced all of these issues presented 😢 in addition to having the phasers done 3 times. So frustrating. Thank you for making this video and discussing it.
I have a 2014 with 152000 and have had no problems whatsoever. I wish the best for you guys, It seems the 150 has gone down in quality since I bought mine. 😊
I do the 3.5 2014 and 5.4 tritons all the time when I go to this guy's site I do what he says don't talk to Ford tech and I never had a vehicle come back thanks fordtechmakuloco 🎉
i used to run into those crappy crimpped hoses leaking on GMs all the time. especaily oil cooler lines. even if you put on new ones they would eventully leak again and some in pretty short time. so would just remove the aluminum crimp and put on t-bolt type hose clamps and they would never leak again
Yeah I'd put two hose clamps on them after removing the metal crimp. Or get the Oetiker clamps on them maybe even 2 for the cost of those hoses from FoMoCo. If the clamp is failing.... Fix the clamp right now replace entire hose set for no other reason. 👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🤔
Brian you are a fantastic mechanic. I have to say tho, I have a 7.3 superduty that is almost 30 years old and I havent had even half the issues this truck has.
Definitely pushing the boundaries for the diy guy. What I’ve learned especially on my wife’s later model ford fusion timing job is to pay the money for the Ford service repair information. You have to have it. I used Alldata. I can’t hold a candle to this guy but with the repair data some repairs are doable.
I know you see this every video, but thank you for this info. I'm about to do a 2018 ecoboost phaser, guides, ect, etc. I've been binge watching all the 3.5 ecoboost info you have put out. Our fleet just picked up 40, 2024 f150s with the 3.5 ecoboost. So the 2018 is the guinea pig, so I can learn for when the 2024s start to have issues. Have a great day.
Fixed Right!!! Ford techs (actually the Dealership) wants & needs a constant supply of work coming in due to the large over-head cost and if the engine fails "can I interest you in a new truck".
Seems inhave gotten lucky with my 15 3.5 eco. Just water pump at 145k, vaccum pump leak around the same time and turno collant fitting also. No startip rattle yet. But am religious about 4-5k oil cahnges with mobil one. Your the best and thanks for your helpful videos
Great video Brian! If a part has to come off to get the part of the job that needs replacing I'm replacing it too! Labor is already paid for it's just like the water pumps that were behind the timing belts, no the water pump didn't need to be replaced at 60-75k miles like the belt butt I'm here and if it starts to fail in the next 10-25k miles I'm going to do another timing belt for a water pump job. For the cost of the part I change it! Take the steps to ensure the job is going to be a "one and done", that brings it to the other known failure points, we're this deep make it a job that will last another 100k+ miles! If the vehicle is solid it cheaper than buying new! 😎✌
We need more of you around...at least 10 in every city and town would help. It's hard to find honesty and competence these days more than ever. Well done. Your a good man. Very useful information to those of us who are like minded.
This is the exact reason i will NEVER buy s new car ever again, my late wife's minivan a 2012 dodge grand caravan with the 3.6 pentastar had a cylinder head replaced in 2021 due to dropped valve that cost me $4400 on the flipside i also own a 1995 Ford F250 4x4 with the 5.8l and can reasonably repair it myself, it passes smog every other year excellently so just maintain and drive it INTO THE GROUND until i can't get parts or i can't do the work !!!
Here's your problem once you have a vehicle with a CAN network you have an expiring item. Once a module goes out and the manufacturer no longer makes it you're screwed with a beached whale. That's with all makes TBO
@@bigdaddymak1439 Everything in this world is disposable. Can network is not the boogyman you think it is. Its basically just computers talking to each other on a system. Better than running full amperage to switches and having them burn out and taking out the harness like the old 90's GM stuff.
@@bigdaddymak1439 I read them both, responding to you. You mentioned CAN network, so I replied about that. Go ask for a new PCM for a 2000 Ford F150 at the dealer. Unavailable from them. Pop a used one in and reprogram it. Vin locked modules, there are people popping up to reset those or swap components to make them work without the programming.
Sticking with my 4.9L EFI inline 6 in my 87 Econoline van with c6 trans.... Slow and very reliable. I use it for work. Ex luxury van now contractor van
Same! And to think (not knowing better at that time) I was so close to walking away from the deal when I found out it was the 2.7 and not the 3.5 in my used 2017 F-150. Sure glad I decided to purchase it after all.
Same, my 2.7 has 190K miles and it runs like new. The engine has only needed sparkplugs, a coolant hose and I'm going to replace the plastic oil pan since it has started leaking a drop every night
@@engineer_alv mine also runs very good. I had to replace a purge valve for rough idle after fill ups which was a quick job. I'm probably gonna do a walnut blast on the intake valves next, my cold start idle is getting on the rougher side.
I have a 2014 Explorer Sport, and recently had a timing job, she was throwing multiple codes for timing. Water pump and spark plugs were also done while everything was apart. Here in Canada, all that was $5K canadian. The engine runs smoother than I remember now. Ford did it; by an experienced tech (I asked) If you find anything, LMK!
I'm from Nova Scotia Canada, my 3.5 has 120,000kms.I had the cam phaser software update at 57000kms.I've never had any cold start rattle. I change my oil at 8000kms with Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30. Hope for the best.I was just in for service recently and asked my dealer about the frequency of cam phaser failure,and he said they do very little of the this repair.Just maintain it best I can and hope for the best I guess.
Wonderful video. Yeah if I had one of those model years, I'm changing all of that. I have a '15 and I took mine to the dealer for a warranty timing cover oil leak at 80k. I paid to have them replace the water pump while they were in there.
I have a 5.4 3V also and the 3.5 Eco is a way better drive, I have test driven them. Just tons more low end and mid range torque. If you have to replace all these parts for a DIY job it's still probably feasible, the click connectors are easy to remove and replace and there are aftermarket options for the hoses. I would not use aftermarket for the timing components though.
I must have gotten lucky with my 2011 because I got 204,000 miles and 12 years out of it without any cam phaser/timing chain problems. The only engine/transmission related issues I had were 3 bad coils, one leaky coolant hose (which broke again in a matter of weeks and was replaced under warranty), broken degas bottle and leaky valve cover gaskets (at 11 1/2 years and 192,000 miles). If I can get that kind of reliability for 150,000 or so out of my 2023 I'll be thrilled.
I have a 2017 3.5l with 95k miles. Everything seems to be fine but these videos make me feel like I’m driving a time bomb. I want to trade it in for the potential that it might suffer catastrophic failure. The only thing is, it’s paid off. Do I want a new payment? Hell no! But I also don’t want to be paying 6-10k in repairs on a truck that could continue to fall apart.
@@JimBronson I tell you this from personal experience. I just got a transmission job paid by my insurance. Bill was $5500. I have a couple other buddies who have had their transmissions replaced and all covered under warranty. $100 deductible.
I inherited a 17 with 78k miles and I brought it in to a dealership a few months ago for the cam cover issue and the phaser issue. They replaced the phasers with the new style (I looked at the part number on the service ticket) and they also said the oil pan was leaking so the replaced both the oil pan (full metal now) and the camshaft cover. I also complained about a strange vibration at about 1300 RPM in gears 6-10... they told me it was a bad driveshaft u-joint. So it got a new driveshaft too. Thankfully I found out that it still had warrantee on it and everything was free. I still have warrantee until October and may still be bring it in for trans issues as the vibration at 1300 RPM is still there, but you can barely feel it. Overall I like the truck, but if I can't get everything on it ironed out before I hit 100k or October... I am going to have to get rid of it as I see it being an expensive nightmare to keep going.
I have done every phaser job through our dealer in the last 2 years. Every single one gets the updated phasers, warranty or c/p, doesnt matter. never had a claim kicked over it. now, under warranty I cant do all the chains, guides, tensioners etc. but on c/p i do it all or not at all, if cust. wants to pay to fix it, they can pay to fix it right.
I have to take my 2018 into dealer (warranty) here in San Diego for CamPhasers. What should I say to get it done right even if I have to pay for the amount beyond the warranty? How much should I expect to pay if the phasers and drivetrain are under warranty?
Awesome attention to the details, that is what I call while your in there replace known problems, and you mostly have to take off or right there for easier replace while your in there.
I still have my 92 f-150. Easy to work on. Almost 400k on the engine. My '17 went in yesterday for the phaser job. Makes me want put on a trailer and drive the 16hr road trip to his shop to do this job. Oil pan was the big shocker when I did my first oil change. Was like.. really?
My wife had a 96 with the two fuel tanks. These old Ford trucks are amazing. I'm always surprised at how many are still on the road and so few are ever found in a junk yard
Brian, great video. Great tips. $6k tuneup, thats ridiculous. I hate it every time I run into it, tge same thing you stated, you're doing one job so it makes sense to change parts that could (will) go bad. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us it is greatly appreciated. God bless y'all and stay safe out there.
@@Mytruck5600tailights umm... you are talking about an 8 hour round trip on top of the time to fix your vehicle. Some people don't have the time for that.
2017 F150 76,000 miles, did this job. Drivers side valve cover had visible pool of oil near the spot that cracks but could not see hairline crack until removed and used brakleen and looked very closely. Missed it at first look. Coolant tank hose metal crimp was split also just like in video. OEM brand crank pulley puller , and Lisle cam plates worked well. This a big job, particularly if you have not done a lot of late model major disassembly, and electrical connector experience. Fortunately lots of youtube tutorials.
Me too I’ve got a 2020 just shy of 60,000 and it’s been flawless just been doing preventative fluid changes I was second guessing when I bought it over the 5.0 and 3.5 but I’m glad I did
@@phillipwood-s5y I been really happy with my 2018 2.7 has 85k just normal fluid changes like you said i did just do plugs this weekend still had factory ford plugs. I run Amsoil of course only the best oil for mine turbos are hard on oil. But I know of another 2.7 truck that had 350k when he traded it in nothing but normal maintenance.
@@engineer_alv 191k!!?? thats great to hear I love to hear about high mileage 2.7s gives me hope mine will make at least 200k. and yes 5k mile oil changes are important for these direct injection turbo Motors
You deserve a 👍🏾'S uP my buddy!!...way 2go on the detail!. We need this type of behavior in life period. Ironically, superb maintenance on your vehicles saves lives!!!..GooD JoB siR!!!🌍💫
Ford needs to go after the vendor for the hoses. The only reasons the crimps would fail are materials or workmanship. Most likely one one or some of the crimp tooling is not setup properly. It could even be a design flaw in the dies. Either way, such a pervasive issue spanning so many years should be on the radar of their quality team.
Well, when they are using crap plastic parts the crimp would have to be fairly light which is why i assume those are aluminum fittings. All crap from what i see.
Well its hard to automatically blame the vendor without more info. Now certainly the vendor wants to make max profits, but I bet they had a better quality part they could offer but the bean counters at Ford said no. They figured that a high enough percentage of the parts would get out of warranty that it was worth it for them to use crappy parts.
@@nickwarner8158 "The Vendor" blame only works when it's inconsistent quality. Not when it's the quality most of the time. The vendor will make whatever you want for the price you want to pay. Everyone dumps on the Chinese. They could make perfectly fine stuff, but no one is willing to pay.
@@KStewart-th4sk yeah a strong crimp will just crush plastic. I have a feeling the thermal expansion of the rubber is fatiguing the aluminum over thousands of heat cycles, like bending metal until it breaks.
The best thing I did was buying the Premium Care ESP from Zeigler for my 2018 F150 when I started noticing issues with the trans. Ive had the ESP for about 9 months now and have had the trans rebuilt, sunroof replaced, phasers replaced (again and finally with the revised PN), oil pan gasket, and a turbo oil feed line replaced.
Yes we need to see: Non leaking water pumps Non leaking vacuum pumps Non leaking valve covers (also plastic) Non leaking turbo coolant fittings Exhaust manifold 4x4 engage/disengage that works (vacuum) Direct injection valve stem anti-caking Etc. I have had it all...
Such a great detailed video and explanation literally you could not find better mechanic to get the job done the first time!! As far as the cost he didn't design or engineer this engine he is just the one knowledgeable to note and fix all of the trouble areas that are sadly costly but fixable
I'm an ex-drag racer from the 60's. I haven't been able to afford new vehicles for several decades so this is all new to me. When did this nonsense start? Totally unfair to the consumer.
About 20 years ago it really took off. I remember opening the hood of an 01 Volvo around 03 and was surprised to see plastic parts everywhere... It was the newest car I had seen at the time. The plastic parts and preassembled one piece hoses have only gotten more common as time goes by.
I thoroughly explained this to a client & the result was I have no idea what I'm talking about & it felt like I was getting dissed for being a honest mechanic in a rap song. I said have a nice day & hope you get this issue fixed. At times the people that own these vehicles have more issues then the vehicles themeselves
We got an expedition that the dealer lied about and started prior to our arrival. Got it home and had the phaser rattle. I battled with them to fix it and they did and it’s been nothing but finding things they did wrong since. Vacuum lines not connected, none of the intake boots even remotely tightened. I’m about to ditch the thing because I don’t trust it
This kind of crap is why I stick to Panthers and other older stuff. My wife had a 2013 Taurus SHO. The first year we had it it spent 8 MONTHS at the dealership. Once we finally got it back "fixed" it lasted for about a year before it had to go back again for another 2 months. I was so damn relieved when we finally sold it.
Took my 2016 Expedition to Brian back in October 2019, or 2020 (can’t remember). It suffered from the start up rattling he spoke of. Once he finished up his magic it was rattle free. Stayed that way until I got rid of it in February of this year. Had no issues with anything he did. It did suffer from other design flaws, but not from his work. If you haven’t visited his shop yet you’re wrong.
So you spent all that money just to sell it on a loss. I just don't understand why do the work. Just could have sold the truck to car max which just sells it at auction.
@@906laneMost of us don’t look at our vehicles as an investment to make money by selling them. We need reliability and dependability so that we can get to our jobs, not be stranded on the side of the road with a disabled vehicle. If you are one of the few that can flip a vehicle and make a few dollars, good on you, for many of us, it’s just not worth our time!
@@906lane Bro, if you do the math I drove it a few more years before getting rid of it. Took it in with approximately 185-190k miles. Had 237k miles when I sold it. Hardly a waste in my opinion. It pulled my wife’s car on my trailer from Huntsville, AL to Surprise, AZ. Pulled my rv from Jacksonville, FL to Huntsville, to Surprise. Not to mention all the other work/ pleasure miles in between. With all the towing going on was noticing oil catch can was filling up rather quickly. A lot of oil blow-by… The idea was to never sell. Wanted to keep it for the long haul. Last straw was my visit to Surprise Ford in Surprise, AZ (Yup, dropping dimes). Had an issue that kept blowing my taillight fuse. Admittedly, was running Anzo sequential LED’s; but, no change when stock lights reinstalled (stock assemblies installed for dealer visit). The dealer called to say it was ready for pickup. Naturally I ask what the problem was. It wasn’t explained on the paperwork clearly, nor could the service writer tell me. Turns out those knuckleheads just changed the fuse… with a higher amperage rating!!! WTF?!?! I could’ve done that… Oh, one more last straw. My truck was putting 395hp/ 603lbs-ft torque to the ground (modded and tuned)… the rear differential started not liking it so much. That’s the whole story… Does that make more sense to you?
The problem here is their profit has become our added cost of ownership. IMHO that makes the value of what we are buying less. If Ford thinks a $6K bill every 70 thousand miles is okay?. Then Ford should reduce the price of the truck by 18K. I know I expect my truck to last more that 150K now a days . Even if I paid only 45k for the truck I'd still be mad at a $6,000.00 bill every 70k miles...
I drive my Expedition KR only the weekends to and from my Ranch in the country (About 200 miles) since 2022. Hopefully the high speed and freeway driving will keep it in better condition. It's at 26k miles after 3years. According to the engine time I have around 200+ hours of idle and 500 hours of driving.
They are good trucks. One of my customers has a 2014 with the 5.0L Coyote, and besides an oil pressure sending unit, and those plastic cooling lines, (and of course an APIM failure causing the touchscreen to quit working) it's never had any major failures. And it currently has 345k miles on it, and it still runs and drives great.
I used your videos to do timing job, oil pump, etc on my 5.4 3v a few years ago. Appreciate your videos you have saved me a lot of money over the years. Do you have any opinion on the 2.7 EB vs the 3.5? Seriously considering going to a 2.7 EB F150 since I tow rarely and always under 7k lbs. Seems like the 2.7 is the more reliable engine?
I would love to see this video only with the 2nd gen explorer/flex with 3.5 ecoboost. Had startup rattle at 61k miles, dealer fixed. Now 100k miles rattling even worse.
This is why I'd probably choose a late build 2014 F-150 with a 5.0l (specifically), or a 15-17 F-150 with the 5.0l. Still unsure about the 21+ 5.0l's but they look promising!
Bro my 2015 3.5 ecoboost 95k miles has been Flawless bought it used with 18k miles no start up noises no leaks at the fittings turbos or vaccum pump . i check everytime i do my oil change every 3k miles i do alot of intown driving and i drive it hard always spool up my turbos i hope to keep this truck forever!!
@@PRO4XKEV Well you may be talking gas but i had a VW Turbo Diesel, stuck to the 8000 KM oil change VW recommended intervals and it was still running great at 698, 714 KM when an a-hole running a Red light ended its life and nearly mine too if i had been a second faster through the intersection. Instead of T-boning me he caught the front end of my car and spun me around 3/4 of a turn. Jerk was high on something and doing over 100 Km/hr. in a 50 zone. I drove about 1200 KM per week and did my own oil changes. No 2-week or a little over oil changes for me!
I never thought id say this, but BOY, AM I GLAD I HAVE A 5.4 TRITON V8 that i did a complete timing job, melling oil pump, new roller followers, new lash adjusters and everything else new up front on at 153k miles. Now im at 173k, and she runs like a swiss watch.
Hi, Brian I follow your feeds all the time, I really appreciate how you go in to detail on why you replace what you do and most of all your a perfectionist, I really appreciate that. I'm going to throw a bit of a curve ball at you, what i mean by that is by the operating climate these trucks are in. I live in Northern Canada, we call power running boards a "California design" they just fail up here with the cold, Ice, snow, salt, etc and someone little darling puts the running board motor right were all the crap is kicked up from the front tires, a splash guard helps but very little, that little darling is an Engineer at Ford. I can go on for ever. These splitting hose crimps now, lets talk about that. I see no TSB's or an SSM on this here in Alberta, I will be watching very close moving forward, do you see certain problems on these Ford Vehicles in certain climates? I also wanted to ask if when a part is replaced if it is a corrected series, I know 3.5 Phasers have been amended several times so I'm told, I actually wonder if they are an amended series as they keep failing it seems. Anyways, I want you to know I appreciate all you post on here to keep us consumers updated. Keep well Brian. Pat
Great advise to give, I let clients know also on since we are in this deep in the repair best time to update or change out your other parts that are common failures weather it's good or not it's should be replaced with a new one. If not I get them to sign off on it, so that I am covered on my end stating I let the customer know but refused etc...
Now, if it were my truck, the crimps are getting hacksawed off and replaced with some worm gear clamps which ought to hold up fine. I get why that approach isn’t taken by a shop owner working on customers’ vehicles, but it could save a shadetree mechanic a lot of money when the hose itself is just fine underneath the cracked crimp.
I’ve spent the last year restoring a 76 highboy. It’ll take me another year but it’ll become my daily driver. I always loved new trucks but since buying my 2017 sierra and seeing all the crap on it I have no desire to go any newer. I thought about doing a coyote swap but I could rebuild my FE motor for less than this “tune up”!
I’ve peeled off them cheep ass worthless aluminum crimp ferrel clamps & just replace w/high pressure screw clamps.. haven’t ever had one of those types of clamps leak. Way cheeper method then changing out lines themselves, unless the lines are weak, mushy, rock hard, cracking, etc., etc..
Careful with those because they can leak. We found other shops were simply tightening the clamps and broke or collapsed the plastic line underneath. We used stainless steel bands similar to CV axle boots. We haven’t had one return with any leaks.
@@jamram9924 yes, over tightening any screw type clamp is possible, if one’s exerting excessive force. That and the use of cheap worthless Chineseium clamps
@@seanbatiz6620 ever noticed those factory clamps? The vast majority, other than a few screw type clamps on German cars, these are pressure clamps. Why? water heats and cools therefore expands and contracts. Yes, plastic connectors can break but over a long period to time/years. Steer clear of those Chinese made hoses and connectors. I’ve used a micro meter to measure the thickness and they’re never the same thickness as the OE hoses/pipe fixtures. We’ve used this stainless steel CV boot clamps with great success and zero issues after thousands of miles. We know a little about heat out here in SW AZ. It’s projected to be 109F today…🥵🥵
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
This, ladies and gentlemen, is a professional.
No. He’s a parts slinger that is wildly over repairing the vehicle. 25 year senior master and I’ve never seen anything but phasers and water pumps fail on these.
@@CoachJay7212No you are not correct. I have a F-150 and if you don't change the phasers it affects the timing chain and parts start to break off and flow through the system until you need a new engine! Technically has left you behind Sir!
@@CoachJay7212😂😂😂
Took my truck up and had this service done and have zero regrets about it. Runs quieter than new and I feel at peace putting another 100k on it without worry! Excellent repair facility and top notch mechanics with integrity!! Thanks again!
Do you mind if i ask the year of your truck? also how long did it take?
@ 2017 model. I work swing shift so I took it up on the weekend and used the key drop and then picked it up the next weekend finished. Did great work and the new oil pan gives me some leak assurance to drive it a while longer without leaks popping up. Just 106k miles on it now. Runs like a top.
What is the name of the shop and location?
@ BSG Automotive in Yorkville Illinois
Brian, you just described the difference between what you do, Preventive Maintenance, and what Ford dealers do: Crisis Management.
Thank you for this! I'm a VWAG guy who got stuck doing this job on an '18 F150. Every single hose crimp was split, driver's side valve cover was cracked exactly where you said it would be. Already did the water pump but customer wants to do thermostat housing as well. You saved me and my customer a lot of headaches.
To anyone doing this job, I lifted the cab. I'm a short dude and I feel like I'd have had a really bad time trying to do this in the truck. Cab removal was pretty dang easy. would totally recommend it.
Best Ford tech anywhere.
Can confirm, had the phaser job done at 63k miles. 2k miles later my water pump failed and left me stranded in the middle of nowhere.
I wish I watched this earlier!!!
Brian is the king of Ford engines ❗️
My 2019 f-150 made it to about 85k before it started to rattle. Did the timing job myself with all ford parts with the latest phasers. Did chains, tensioners, guides, crank sprocket, water pump, belts and components, thermostat. It’s a job for sure. Toughest thing was torquing that crank bolt. I think mine lasted longer due to start/stop being disabled.
I can’t believe that other techs will question you and ask you. Why would you change the chains if you’re going that far into it? Why would you even keep the same chains on! Lord have mercy I’ve been watching you since I started and I’m always watching videos trying to learn as much as I can And ford definitely is not the only one that has problems. The owner of our shop owns different dealerships so the good thing about that is that we have to work on different makes and models and Ford is not the only one. love your videos dude I’ve learned so much from you and I really appreciate, you making these videos God bless you
The wonderful world of plastic and cheaply made components, I have a love hate with plastic, awesome video Brian 👍😁
Yeah I hate that Ford loves to use plastic in all the worst places. Like the plastic on the exhaust heat exchanger on the Powerboost that leaks coolant all over the driveway.
@karlschauff7989
Can you tell us more about this? Its location and any DIY fix?
Just had a heater core hose fitting Crack in half and pist out all the coolant and overheated the engine. Time for a new headgasket and hopefully the heads aren't cracked
My 2012 focus 2.0 NA has had 3 coolent leaks since it got over 200 000kms. The plastic crap is starting to warp, crack and separate.
I have a slow coolant leak on my 2017 3.5EB. Now I can look at all those hoses to see which ones are cracked. Great video.
Also check it's not leaking at one of the turbo fitting...take it from me...
Use a coolent pressure testing tool.
One of your best videos and very helpful for ecoboost owners.
I got an 2020 f150 2.7 ecoboost. No issues yet haha
@williamchoza1227 the 2.7 is usually pretty reliable compared to the 3.5 counterpart generally speaking.
All those coolant lines should be upgraded to a regular line without the crimp thing. Brian you are right to replace all this stuff to make the engine last longer and give a better result to the customer. That table with parts is amazing to see.
What happened to the simple and effective steel clamps..
@@Dytopjewa7631faster to install on the line is why. It's about cost saving for the manufacturer.
Dorman has heater hoses for the 5.4 that use these same kinds of lines, they are metal with crimp connectors. I have them on my 5.4, no issues, but I don't know if the same exists for the 3.5.
I can't tell you how many people look at me like I'm "nuts" when I say, from a performance and drivability standpoint, the engineering is incredible........ from a maintenance/repair standpoint, the complexity and synthetic (plastic) materials used are just a nightmare waiting to happen....and when one thing "fails", there is no such thing as a "simple fix', you're looking at big $$$'s by comparison even just for the parts. have to take it to a shop..... now it's really going to be expensive. I understand Ford saving assembly time/money by going with crimp connectors on the water hoses BUT, from a repair standpoint, it makes no sense... unless they are really going with the "who cares about the customer after warranty" approach- which is probably the ground truth. Great job of the Vids Brian!
Yup. I put a used engine in a 2016 Expedition 3-4 months ago due to a broken main timing chain. Worst engine replacement job I have ever done. If I had a 2 post and the space, I would have pulled the body off for that job. But had to work with what I have.
@@mph5896 I've done it both ways and like pulling the body off the most because it's less stressful on the hands and back. Takes about the same time either way.
Ford invented the "Dealer Trap" long before they put it into mass production in the late 80's leading the compitition in design by 5years of follow the leader. Until you have what the automotive market is today.
Theyve been doing it that way since the 1986ish Areostar
I wonder if you could cut off those crimps very carefully and just put Standard clamps on them ?
I can see why someone who doesn't have one wpuld say "why have one of these then?". I just had BSG do the full 6k tune up on my 2019. I drove 5.5 hours to get there and stayed over night in a hotel while Brian and Alex did my work. Here's what I can tell you. My truck had 135,000 on it, was at the VERY beginning of cold start phaser rattle for the second time in it's life - the first time was at 35,000 and phasers were done under warranty at that time (of course replaced with the same pieces of trash as origi al at that time). I strive for efficiency in my truck and even though I'm on 34.5" tires with a 2" level a d trimmed air dam I still was making 22.5mpg average on The freeway when I brought it in to BSG. On the trip home I averaged 24.2mpg (real calculation, nit dash cluster). My engine temp is cooler, tra s temp is 10 to 12 degrees cooler and my engine runs and sounds like a zwiss watch minus the stupid cold turbo valve rattle. Brian and Alex are consummate professionals. I had only two special requests when I dropped my truck off and those were #1 tra s flyid/filter change and #2 "if you see ANYTHING under my hood that you would change or update if this was your personal truck please go ahead and replace it - I gave Brian a blank check to spend whatever he wanted. All said and done he replaced all the oarts in the vid minus oil pan (already have full aluminum) and I was out the door a couple hundred less than I had assumed I'd be at. Can you even imagine what ur bill would look like at a dealership if you gave them a blank check and a blank signed service order? These guys absolutely earn the trust and respect they receive and I wish I had a huge media outlet so I could tell everyone how much a customer appreciates Brian's no nonsense approach and fast/accurate/complete service.
I'm the same distance away... My wife is gonna think I'm nuts but if it's that quick of a turn around (understanding it will be based on schedule openings) I think it will be worth it. I'm only at 89k and it has had phasers twice I believe.
This is awesome to hear 👌🙌🏼. Having some enthusiast cars this is common practice and imo should absolutely be for any vehicle we care for. Where is he located ? I’ll be searching after I watch this video
@@5abivt Yorkville, IL
My truck goes next week. My wife keeps calling it a vacation because I'll have a hotel.
You Sir are a tech with great integrity good job. 👍
Good info. All brands have their issues. Manufacturers are constantly looking for ways to make more profit. This is still way cheaper than buying a new truck!
I agree with you. This is why I also had Brian do my truck and replace it all. It runs better than new and sounds like new.
The problem here is their profit has become our added cost of ownership. IMHO that makes the value of what we are buying less. If Ford thinks a $6K bill every 70 thousand miles is okay?. Then For should reduce the price of the truck by 18K. I know I expect my truck to last more that 150K now a days . Even if I paid only 45K for the truck I'd still be mad at a $6,000.00 Bill every 70 K miles.... Not okay..
@@BrianFox I have a 2010 Ford Expedition with the 5.4L 2wd with 265,000 original engine and trans and decided to not buy a new truck and spent the $6,500 and had everything replaced. The truck driver better than new and the mpg have improved. I agree that ford has went down hill with all the timing chain, phasers and etc... These vehicles cost to much for them not to last more than 100,000 miles before needed to have them rebuilt.
The best Ford MasterTech on RUclips.
Excellent tips in your video! My truck had the cam phasers replaced under warranty just before I bought it. It's a 2018 F150 and I bought in back in October of 2021. Checked my crimped hose fittings, they were all cracked. Going to replace them all and the de-gas bottle cap in the next few days. I've already done the water pump, and rad hoses. I couldn't find an OEM aluminum oil pan and had to replace only the plastic one. Eventually I'll get the aluminum oil pan upgrade. Thanks again for the excellent information in your videos! My truck has over 176,000 kilometers (approximately 110,000 miles) on it. Your videos are keeping my truck alive.
This guy know his stuff. Wish he was close to where I live.
Love to see a 2.7 video!
What is wrong with the 98 guys who gave a thumb down?!?
You prooved every little common defect.
Perfect explanation.
Dealer techs, lol
At 60K miles my timing chain needed replacement on my 2012 F150 XLT. That was 4 years ago and I spent 3 days on the driveway doing it myself. The timing chain is made of mild steel. I kid you not. Spent $3,000 for parts only. Dealer could not supply me the torque to yield bolts for the phasers. In fact the dealer said that they need them themselves. It took a lot of head scratching to come up with a method to reused torque to yield bolts. Basically you aim to torque them to what they were before you removed them. If you redo the torque to yield procedure you will break the bolts. Surprisingly that job was successful. Because there were so many opportunities for failure I was jumpy for the next year. Then the right turbo went and I replaced it. Not a fun job. Right valve cover cracked so that got JB welded. Front brake flex lines turned into one way valves and cooked my rotors and pads. My fuel economy was bad due to brakes partially applied all the time. Air conditioner pump is done. Transmission oil pan rusted through. I am only giving you some of the problems I had to deal with that F150.
Conclusions; Ford has deliberately designed the F150 so that it can't be easily serviced by the home mechanic. Ford uses the cheapest parts possible to the point that it is criminal. Ford does not provide adequate information for the home mechanic. Ford makes more money off of servicing their vehicles than making them. Ford designs their vehicles to fall apart in about 10 years. Ford customers have had it. Ford might be going out of business.
Part of the problem IMO is that they use junk Morse Silent Chains. A quality roller chain might be slightly more noisy but lasts longer.
thanks for that info
cant agree more with your comments. i will never own another ford product
Brian, you're the most thorough, honest tech out there. Too bad you're so far away, or I'd have you work on my cars. BTW, while you're already in there, as a customer, I'd appreciate it if you'd replace the serpentine belt, tensioner and idlers, too. Like you said, "one and done."
All belts get replaced too, but the one idler and tensioner last a long long time.
@@FordTechMakuloco can you do a video like this for the 2017 expedition please!
@@FordTechMakuloco I've heard from more than one source that the subpar cam phasers were ONLY on 2017 - 2020 years.... I've read of eariler 3.5's getting 300-400K without needing any internal work done... true ??
@@FordTechMakulocoI have a 2013 Ecoboost with the original belts with 132K miles on them. As far as I can tell they look good but realistically are they overdo in being replaced?
I will now be fitting out some band clamps for the hose crimps and keep them handy for emergency repairs of splitting metal crimps
Amazing attention to detail, well done, great explanation
I've heard of planned obsolescence, but this is rediculas!
I'm sure other manufacturers have their problems but this is a nightmare for real!
Thanks for this video Brian.
It is ridiculous.
My 2018 f150 has experienced all of these issues presented 😢 in addition to having the phasers done 3 times. So frustrating. Thank you for making this video and discussing it.
I have a 2014 with 152000 and have had no problems whatsoever. I wish the best for you guys, It seems the 150 has gone down in quality since I bought mine. 😊
I have a 2016 with 138000. No problems yet either. Stuff like this makes me want to sell though, before stuff goes sideways
I do the 3.5 2014 and 5.4 tritons all the time when I go to this guy's site I do what he says don't talk to Ford tech and I never had a vehicle come back thanks fordtechmakuloco 🎉
i used to run into those crappy crimpped hoses leaking on GMs all the time. especaily oil cooler lines. even if you put on new ones they would eventully leak again and some in pretty short time. so would just remove the aluminum crimp and put on t-bolt type hose clamps and they would never leak again
Yah-
-I too was kinda wondering why no effort was made just to change out the crimps....
Yeah I'd put two hose clamps on them after removing the metal crimp. Or get the Oetiker clamps on them maybe even 2 for the cost of those hoses from FoMoCo. If the clamp is failing.... Fix the clamp right now replace entire hose set for no other reason. 👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🤔
Yup hose clamps are how I fixed the coolent hose leaks on my quad. Those crimp connectors are a joke.
Brian you are a fantastic mechanic. I have to say tho, I have a 7.3 superduty that is almost 30 years old and I havent had even half the issues this truck has.
I haven't seen that many splits since I took a yoga class 4 years ago.
Aaaa the ladies of the grassy parks in summer.
@@sheepdog3828 😂😂😂
I have a 2017 F-150 Raptor. As soon as I need Cam Phasers done I am bringing it to your shop for the full $6000 tune up!
My God, with all the timing chain / phaser / cooling system failures I’m wondering if Ford has hired engineers from BMW / VW / Audi.
Nope Ford can design junk all by themselves
I herd most of Fords engineering is from Germany so that has to tell you something right there
Definitely not…..all my Audis have had 250k on them with original timing components!!
india ,you have people designing parts that have 1 light bulb in their scrap metal huts
@@TheOldMachinesI can say the same about fords. If you think Audi is better than ford, you may want to google all the issues with Audi.
Definitely pushing the boundaries for the diy guy. What I’ve learned especially on my wife’s later model ford fusion timing job is to pay the money for the Ford service repair information. You have to have it. I used Alldata. I can’t hold a candle to this guy but with the repair data some repairs are doable.
I know you see this every video, but thank you for this info. I'm about to do a 2018 ecoboost phaser, guides, ect, etc. I've been binge watching all the 3.5 ecoboost info you have put out. Our fleet just picked up 40, 2024 f150s with the 3.5 ecoboost. So the 2018 is the guinea pig, so I can learn for when the 2024s start to have issues. Have a great day.
(40) 2024 F-150 w/Ecoboost, now that's what I call job security!
LoL. Your letting employies drive turbo's? Boy your just asking for it.. I hope none are born after 2005 or women
@@tatertots-n-soup there cops, so it will be even worse lol
Fixed Right!!! Ford techs (actually the Dealership) wants & needs a constant supply of work coming in due to the large over-head cost and if the engine fails "can I interest you in a new truck".
Seems inhave gotten lucky with my 15 3.5 eco. Just water pump at 145k, vaccum pump leak around the same time and turno collant fitting also. No startip rattle yet. But am religious about 4-5k oil cahnges with mobil one. Your the best and thanks for your helpful videos
my 15 3.5 tt is leak free i only have 95k miles tho its been good i drive it hard no issues yet hope to keep it another 50k miles
@@TheLawlessGang it's going to eventually leak at the turbo fitting and vacuum pump. They all do
@@marcharris4176 ill probably trade in before i get to 150k
Great video Brian!
If a part has to come off to get the part of the job that needs replacing I'm replacing it too! Labor is already paid for it's just like the water pumps that were behind the timing belts, no the water pump didn't need to be replaced at 60-75k miles like the belt butt I'm here and if it starts to fail in the next 10-25k miles I'm going to do another timing belt for a water pump job. For the cost of the part I change it!
Take the steps to ensure the job is going to be a "one and done", that brings it to the other known failure points, we're this deep make it a job that will last another 100k+ miles! If the vehicle is solid it cheaper than buying new! 😎✌
We need more of you around...at least 10 in every city and town would help. It's hard to find honesty and competence these days more than ever. Well done. Your a good man. Very useful information to those of us who are like minded.
This is the exact reason i will NEVER buy s new car ever again, my late wife's minivan a 2012 dodge grand caravan with the 3.6 pentastar had a cylinder head replaced in 2021 due to dropped valve that cost me $4400 on the flipside i also own a 1995 Ford F250 4x4 with the 5.8l and can reasonably repair it myself, it passes smog every other year excellently so just maintain and drive it INTO THE GROUND until i can't get parts or i can't do the work !!!
Those vans are fairly easy to work on. And work on, and work on🤣
Here's your problem once you have a vehicle with a CAN network you have an expiring item. Once a module goes out and the manufacturer no longer makes it you're screwed with a beached whale. That's with all makes TBO
@@bigdaddymak1439 Everything in this world is disposable. Can network is not the boogyman you think it is. Its basically just computers talking to each other on a system. Better than running full amperage to switches and having them burn out and taking out the harness like the old 90's GM stuff.
@@mph5896 did you read my comment or his?? I'm talking about modules being unavailable when one fails!
@@bigdaddymak1439 I read them both, responding to you. You mentioned CAN network, so I replied about that.
Go ask for a new PCM for a 2000 Ford F150 at the dealer. Unavailable from them. Pop a used one in and reprogram it. Vin locked modules, there are people popping up to reset those or swap components to make them work without the programming.
Sticking with my 4.9L EFI inline 6 in my 87 Econoline van with c6 trans.... Slow and very reliable. I use it for work. Ex luxury van now contractor van
Couldn't be more glad to have a 2.7 EcoBoost after seeing all these 3.5 videos
Same! And to think (not knowing better at that time) I was so close to walking away from the deal when I found out it was the 2.7 and not the 3.5 in my used 2017 F-150. Sure glad I decided to purchase it after all.
Same, my 2.7 has 190K miles and it runs like new. The engine has only needed sparkplugs, a coolant hose and I'm going to replace the plastic oil pan since it has started leaking a drop every night
@@engineer_alv mine also runs very good. I had to replace a purge valve for rough idle after fill ups which was a quick job. I'm probably gonna do a walnut blast on the intake valves next, my cold start idle is getting on the rougher side.
@@performancepass4945 mine is the 2nd gen with DI + port injection so no rough idle.
I've got a 2015 Explorer Sport. Will be getting under the engine on my back with a strong flashlight and start looking. Thanks, Brian
I have a 2014 Explorer Sport, and recently had a timing job, she was throwing multiple codes for timing. Water pump and spark plugs were also done while everything was apart. Here in Canada, all that was $5K canadian. The engine runs smoother than I remember now. Ford did it; by an experienced tech (I asked) If you find anything, LMK!
I'm from Nova Scotia Canada, my 3.5 has 120,000kms.I had the cam phaser software update at 57000kms.I've never had any cold start rattle. I change my oil at 8000kms with Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30. Hope for the best.I was just in for service recently and asked my dealer about the frequency of cam phaser failure,and he said they do very little of the this repair.Just maintain it best I can and hope for the best I guess.
Ours went at 95 k with 6-7 k oil changes with synthetic
@@mathewgunsolus2592 Too long. Stick with 5k
Wonderful video. Yeah if I had one of those model years, I'm changing all of that. I have a '15 and I took mine to the dealer for a warranty timing cover oil leak at 80k. I paid to have them replace the water pump while they were in there.
I’m sold,
Gonna stick with my 5.4 3 valve triton.
For all its idiosyncrasies, it pales compared to this turbo V6.
I have a 5.4 3V also and the 3.5 Eco is a way better drive, I have test driven them. Just tons more low end and mid range torque. If you have to replace all these parts for a DIY job it's still probably feasible, the click connectors are easy to remove and replace and there are aftermarket options for the hoses. I would not use aftermarket for the timing components though.
5.4 is a pile of shit too
I must have gotten lucky with my 2011 because I got 204,000 miles and 12 years out of it without any cam phaser/timing chain problems. The only engine/transmission related issues I had were 3 bad coils, one leaky coolant hose (which broke again in a matter of weeks and was replaced under warranty), broken degas bottle and leaky valve cover gaskets (at 11 1/2 years and 192,000 miles). If I can get that kind of reliability for 150,000 or so out of my 2023 I'll be thrilled.
Wonder if you can use a one time metal band clamp around those splitting metal crimp to prevent them from splitting in the future
I was wondering the same thing
I am almost positive Ford replaced my cam phasers as part of a recall on my 3.5L ecoboost 2019 lariat a few years ago.
I have a 2017 3.5l with 95k miles. Everything seems to be fine but these videos make me feel like I’m driving a time bomb. I want to trade it in for the potential that it might suffer catastrophic failure. The only thing is, it’s paid off. Do I want a new payment? Hell no! But I also don’t want to be paying 6-10k in repairs on a truck that could continue to fall apart.
They are so much more expensive now overall. I would keep the 2017 and do the 6K job to keep it going, if you like the truck otherwise.
For heavens sake....don't do that. Why would you pay $1500 a month when you could simply pay $6000 and go another 100,000 plus miles?!?
Or get an aftermarket warranty and pay $130/mo for peace of mind.
@@21divel I've never seen an aftermarket warranty that's worth the paper it's written on.
@@JimBronson I tell you this from personal experience. I just got a transmission job paid by my insurance. Bill was $5500. I have a couple other buddies who have had their transmissions replaced and all covered under warranty. $100 deductible.
Man I’m so glad your getting some of the newer engines on your channel. For the longest time it seemed all you had were 5.4 Tritons
Always entertaining, plus I learn things from you... Love the channel bro!
I inherited a 17 with 78k miles and I brought it in to a dealership a few months ago for the cam cover issue and the phaser issue. They replaced the phasers with the new style (I looked at the part number on the service ticket) and they also said the oil pan was leaking so the replaced both the oil pan (full metal now) and the camshaft cover. I also complained about a strange vibration at about 1300 RPM in gears 6-10... they told me it was a bad driveshaft u-joint. So it got a new driveshaft too. Thankfully I found out that it still had warrantee on it and everything was free. I still have warrantee until October and may still be bring it in for trans issues as the vibration at 1300 RPM is still there, but you can barely feel it. Overall I like the truck, but if I can't get everything on it ironed out before I hit 100k or October... I am going to have to get rid of it as I see it being an expensive nightmare to keep going.
I have done every phaser job through our dealer in the last 2 years. Every single one gets the updated phasers, warranty or c/p, doesnt matter. never had a claim kicked over it. now, under warranty I cant do all the chains, guides, tensioners etc. but on c/p i do it all or not at all, if cust. wants to pay to fix it, they can pay to fix it right.
I have to take my 2018 into dealer (warranty) here in San Diego for CamPhasers. What should I say to get it done right even if I have to pay for the amount beyond the warranty? How much should I expect to pay if the phasers and drivetrain are under warranty?
Awesome attention to the details, that is what I call while your in there replace known problems, and you
mostly have to take off or right there for easier replace while your in there.
Thats why i have kept my 10th gen F150. No matter what, i will keep fixing her until i am no more
I really miss my 97 reg cab short bed 4.6 it was a super reliable truck.
@@tc6580 I had a 2000 Supercab, very reliable also. Never did anything but oil and coolant changes.
I just bought a 94 f150. Someone needs to b*tch slap Fords accountants for killing their flagship.
I still have my 92 f-150. Easy to work on. Almost 400k on the engine. My '17 went in yesterday for the phaser job. Makes me want put on a trailer and drive the 16hr road trip to his shop to do this job. Oil pan was the big shocker when I did my first oil change. Was like.. really?
My wife had a 96 with the two fuel tanks. These old Ford trucks are amazing. I'm always surprised at how many are still on the road and so few are ever found in a junk yard
I always thought my attention to detail slowed me down but its honestly a blessing and pays more what brand are those gloves ?
Is it possibe to put a hose clamp over the crimped part or remove crimped end and use hose clamp
Brian, great video. Great tips. $6k tuneup, thats ridiculous.
I hate it every time I run into it, tge same thing you stated, you're doing one job so it makes sense to change parts that could (will) go bad.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us it is greatly appreciated.
God bless y'all and stay safe out there.
I'd change those pans out, from your video on it, it looks like a nice relaxing satisfying job at the end of it.
Thanks!
I think it is time for you to move your shop and family to Indiana, say near my hometown in central Indiana! We promise to keep you busy. Great video!
Get in line. LOL
100% agree! We can use him here in the Indy area!
If you wouldn't make a four hour drive to see Brian, then you don't deserve him.
@@Mytruck5600tailights umm... you are talking about an 8 hour round trip on top of the time to fix your vehicle. Some people don't have the time for that.
2017 F150 76,000 miles, did this job. Drivers side valve cover had visible pool of oil near the spot that cracks but could not see hairline crack until removed and used brakleen and looked very closely. Missed it at first look. Coolant tank hose metal crimp was split also just like in video. OEM brand crank pulley puller , and Lisle cam plates worked well. This a big job, particularly if you have not done a lot of late model major disassembly, and electrical connector experience. Fortunately lots of youtube tutorials.
ummmm glad i got a 2.7 ecoboost and not a 3.5! great video brother
Me too I’ve got a 2020 just shy of 60,000 and it’s been flawless just been doing preventative fluid changes I was second guessing when I bought it over the 5.0 and 3.5 but I’m glad I did
@@phillipwood-s5y I been really happy with my 2018 2.7 has 85k just normal fluid changes like you said i did just do plugs this weekend still had factory ford plugs. I run Amsoil of course only the best oil for mine turbos are hard on oil. But I know of another 2.7 truck that had 350k when he traded it in nothing but normal maintenance.
@@trackpackgt877 Mine has 191K miles. I'm doing 5K miles oil changes and will replace the leaky oil pan at my next oil change along with plugs.
@@engineer_alv 191k!!?? thats great to hear I love to hear about high mileage 2.7s gives me hope mine will make at least 200k. and yes 5k mile oil changes are important for these direct injection turbo Motors
You deserve a 👍🏾'S uP my buddy!!...way 2go on the detail!. We need this type of behavior in life period. Ironically, superb maintenance on your vehicles saves lives!!!..GooD JoB siR!!!🌍💫
Ford needs to go after the vendor for the hoses. The only reasons the crimps would fail are materials or workmanship. Most likely one one or some of the crimp tooling is not setup properly. It could even be a design flaw in the dies. Either way, such a pervasive issue spanning so many years should be on the radar of their quality team.
Well, when they are using crap plastic parts the crimp would have to be fairly light which is why i assume those are aluminum fittings. All crap from what i see.
Well its hard to automatically blame the vendor without more info. Now certainly the vendor wants to make max profits, but I bet they had a better quality part they could offer but the bean counters at Ford said no. They figured that a high enough percentage of the parts would get out of warranty that it was worth it for them to use crappy parts.
@@nickwarner8158 "The Vendor" blame only works when it's inconsistent quality. Not when it's the quality most of the time. The vendor will make whatever you want for the price you want to pay. Everyone dumps on the Chinese. They could make perfectly fine stuff, but no one is willing to pay.
@@KStewart-th4sk yeah a strong crimp will just crush plastic. I have a feeling the thermal expansion of the rubber is fatiguing the aluminum over thousands of heat cycles, like bending metal until it breaks.
quality team - 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂lol,lol,lol,lol
The best thing I did was buying the Premium Care ESP from Zeigler for my 2018 F150 when I started noticing issues with the trans. Ive had the ESP for about 9 months now and have had the trans rebuilt, sunroof replaced, phasers replaced (again and finally with the revised PN), oil pan gasket, and a turbo oil feed line replaced.
I'd love to see the same breakdown for failures/components for the Gen1
Yes we need to see:
Non leaking water pumps
Non leaking vacuum pumps
Non leaking valve covers (also plastic)
Non leaking turbo coolant fittings
Exhaust manifold
4x4 engage/disengage that works (vacuum)
Direct injection valve stem anti-caking
Etc.
I have had it all...
Such a great detailed video and explanation literally you could not find better mechanic to get the job done the first time!! As far as the cost he didn't design or engineer this engine he is just the one knowledgeable to note and fix all of the trouble areas that are sadly costly but fixable
I'm an ex-drag racer from the 60's. I haven't been able to afford new vehicles for several decades so this is all new to me. When did this nonsense start? Totally unfair to the consumer.
About 20 years ago it really took off.
I remember opening the hood of an 01 Volvo around 03 and was surprised to see plastic parts everywhere... It was the newest car I had seen at the time.
The plastic parts and preassembled one piece hoses have only gotten more common as time goes by.
I thoroughly explained this to a client & the result was I have no idea what I'm talking about & it felt like I was getting dissed for being a honest mechanic in a rap song. I said have a nice day & hope you get this issue fixed. At times the people that own these vehicles have more issues then the vehicles themeselves
We got an expedition that the dealer lied about and started prior to our arrival. Got it home and had the phaser rattle. I battled with them to fix it and they did and it’s been nothing but finding things they did wrong since. Vacuum lines not connected, none of the intake boots even remotely tightened. I’m about to ditch the thing because I don’t trust it
I will never purchase a vehicle manufactured after 1990 unless I see proof the timing belts/time ng chain systems have been changed.
This kind of crap is why I stick to Panthers and other older stuff.
My wife had a 2013 Taurus SHO. The first year we had it it spent 8 MONTHS at the dealership.
Once we finally got it back "fixed" it lasted for about a year before it had to go back again for another 2 months.
I was so damn relieved when we finally sold it.
Took my 2016 Expedition to Brian back in October 2019, or 2020 (can’t remember). It suffered from the start up rattling he spoke of.
Once he finished up his magic it was rattle free. Stayed that way until I got rid of it in February of this year.
Had no issues with anything he did. It did suffer from other design flaws, but not from his work.
If you haven’t visited his shop yet you’re wrong.
So you spent all that money just to sell it on a loss. I just don't understand why do the work. Just could have sold the truck to car max which just sells it at auction.
@@906lanethe guy drove it for four years after it was fixed. Hardly a waste, IMO.
@@906laneMost of us don’t look at our vehicles as an investment to make money by selling them. We need reliability and dependability so that we can get to our jobs, not be stranded on the side of the road with a disabled vehicle. If you are one of the few that can flip a vehicle and make a few dollars, good on you, for many of us, it’s just not worth our time!
@@chrisforker7487
Thank you.
@@906lane
Bro, if you do the math I drove it a few more years before getting rid of it.
Took it in with approximately 185-190k miles. Had 237k miles when I sold it. Hardly a waste in my opinion.
It pulled my wife’s car on my trailer from Huntsville, AL to Surprise, AZ. Pulled my rv from Jacksonville, FL to Huntsville, to Surprise. Not to mention all the other work/ pleasure miles in between.
With all the towing going on was noticing oil catch can was filling up rather quickly. A lot of oil blow-by…
The idea was to never sell. Wanted to keep it for the long haul. Last straw was my visit to Surprise Ford in Surprise, AZ (Yup, dropping dimes). Had an issue that kept blowing my taillight fuse. Admittedly, was running Anzo sequential LED’s; but, no change when stock lights reinstalled (stock assemblies installed for dealer visit). The dealer called to say it was ready for pickup. Naturally I ask what the problem was. It wasn’t explained on the paperwork clearly, nor could the service writer tell me. Turns out those knuckleheads just changed the fuse… with a higher amperage rating!!! WTF?!?! I could’ve done that…
Oh, one more last straw. My truck was putting 395hp/ 603lbs-ft torque to the ground (modded and tuned)… the rear differential started not liking it so much.
That’s the whole story… Does that make more sense to you?
Attention to detail windows and doors!! Thanks for all the shout outs!!
The problem here is their profit has become our added cost of ownership. IMHO that makes the value of what we are buying less. If Ford thinks a $6K bill every 70 thousand miles is okay?. Then Ford should reduce the price of the truck by 18K. I know I expect my truck to last more that 150K now a days . Even if I paid only 45k for the truck I'd still be mad at a $6,000.00 bill every 70k miles...
You paid ONLY 45K?. Thease trucks shouldn't be more than 35k
I paid 34k for a 2018, it's outrageous I need it for work. My next truck will be a 70's or 80's maybe early 90s.
Yes get a 300 i6 engine it won't die 😆 @elvisbullets7382
I drive my Expedition KR only the weekends to and from my Ranch in the country (About 200 miles) since 2022. Hopefully the high speed and freeway driving will keep it in better condition. It's at 26k miles after 3years. According to the engine time I have around 200+ hours of idle and 500 hours of driving.
I feel lucky to have a F150 with the Coyote engine, 225K miles, never had to open the timing cover, still runs strong.
The molded plastic heater hoses exist on all Ford vehicles, I have had to replace mine on my 5.4 3V.
They are good trucks. One of my customers has a 2014 with the 5.0L Coyote, and besides an oil pressure sending unit, and those plastic cooling lines, (and of course an APIM failure causing the touchscreen to quit working) it's never had any major failures. And it currently has 345k miles on it, and it still runs and drives great.
You do the job the right way. Good for you.
I used your videos to do timing job, oil pump, etc on my 5.4 3v a few years ago. Appreciate your videos you have saved me a lot of money over the years.
Do you have any opinion on the 2.7 EB vs the 3.5? Seriously considering going to a 2.7 EB F150 since I tow rarely and always under 7k lbs. Seems like the 2.7 is the more reliable engine?
Great video. If I ever have a major issue with my 2020 5.0 I'm bringing it to you.
I would love to see this video only with the 2nd gen explorer/flex with 3.5 ecoboost. Had startup rattle at 61k miles, dealer fixed. Now 100k miles rattling even worse.
This is why I'd probably choose a late build 2014 F-150 with a 5.0l (specifically), or a 15-17 F-150 with the 5.0l. Still unsure about the 21+ 5.0l's but they look promising!
Could you provide a parts list of the parts you recommend changing out, as shown in this video?
Easy, lift off radiator cap>>drive new truck under it>>replace radiator cap with new one.
There needs to be more mechanics like you. Love your attention to detail.
Bro my 2015 3.5 ecoboost 95k miles has been Flawless bought it used with 18k miles no start up noises no leaks at the fittings turbos or vaccum pump . i check everytime i do my oil change every 3k miles i do alot of intown driving and i drive it hard always spool up my turbos i hope to keep this truck forever!!
Yours is probably a 1st gen ecoboost. Those were fairly solid. We have a fleet 2014 with about 275k miles and lots of idle time.
@@PRO4XKEV Well you may be talking gas but i had a VW Turbo Diesel, stuck to the 8000 KM oil change VW recommended intervals and it was still running great at 698, 714 KM when an a-hole running a Red light ended its life and nearly mine too if i had been a second faster through the intersection. Instead of T-boning me he caught the front end of my car and spun me around 3/4 of a turn. Jerk was high on something and doing over 100 Km/hr. in a 50 zone. I drove about 1200 KM per week and did my own oil changes. No 2-week or a little over oil changes for me!
I never thought id say this, but BOY, AM I GLAD I HAVE A 5.4 TRITON V8 that i did a complete timing job, melling oil pump, new roller followers, new lash adjusters and everything else new up front on at 153k miles. Now im at 173k, and she runs like a swiss watch.
Can we have a common failure list on the 2020 2.7 Ecoboost in the AWD Edge ST?
Hi, Brian
I follow your feeds all the time, I really appreciate how you go in to detail on why you replace what you do and most of all your a perfectionist, I really appreciate that.
I'm going to throw a bit of a curve ball at you, what i mean by that is by the operating climate these trucks are in. I live in Northern Canada, we call power running boards a "California design" they just fail up here with the cold, Ice, snow, salt, etc and someone little darling puts the running board motor right were all the crap is kicked up from the front tires, a splash guard helps but very little, that little darling is an Engineer at Ford. I can go on for ever. These splitting hose crimps now, lets talk about that. I see no TSB's or an SSM on this here in Alberta, I will be watching very close moving forward, do you see certain problems on these Ford Vehicles in certain climates? I also wanted to ask if when a part is replaced if it is a corrected series, I know 3.5 Phasers have been amended several times so I'm told, I actually wonder if they are an amended series as they keep failing it seems.
Anyways, I want you to know I appreciate all you post on here to keep us consumers updated. Keep well Brian.
Pat
Please do a 2.7 common failure points.
Amen! I have a 2016 2.7 “leak-o-boost.
There’s not any except the early leaking oil pans
Well, I do have that….😂
The video would be pretty much the same as this one
@@jackmehoff1565 nope sure wouldn’t
Great advise to give, I let clients know also on since we are in this deep in the repair best time to update or change out your other parts that are common failures weather it's good or not it's should be replaced with a new one. If not I get them to sign off on it, so that I am covered on my end stating I let the customer know but refused etc...
Now, if it were my truck, the crimps are getting hacksawed off and replaced with some worm gear clamps which ought to hold up fine. I get why that approach isn’t taken by a shop owner working on customers’ vehicles, but it could save a shadetree mechanic a lot of money when the hose itself is just fine underneath the cracked crimp.
Be worm gearing on a brittle plastic tubing unfortunately. It’ll break before it thinks about getting tight.
Thanks for taking the time to show all those failure points. Great video
!Holy moly! thats everything except the block and heads lol
I’ve spent the last year restoring a 76 highboy. It’ll take me another year but it’ll become my daily driver.
I always loved new trucks but since buying my 2017 sierra and seeing all the crap on it I have no desire to go any newer.
I thought about doing a coyote swap but I could rebuild my FE motor for less than this “tune up”!
I’ve peeled off them cheep ass worthless aluminum crimp ferrel clamps & just replace w/high pressure screw clamps.. haven’t ever had one of those types of clamps leak.
Way cheeper method then changing out lines themselves, unless the lines are weak, mushy, rock hard, cracking, etc., etc..
Careful with those because they can leak. We found other shops were simply tightening the clamps and broke or collapsed the plastic line underneath. We used stainless steel bands similar to CV axle boots. We haven’t had one return with any leaks.
@@jamram9924 yes, over tightening any screw type clamp is possible, if one’s exerting excessive force. That and the use of cheap worthless Chineseium clamps
Doesnt sound like simply tightening to me
@@seanbatiz6620 ever noticed those factory clamps? The vast majority, other than a few screw type clamps on German cars, these are pressure clamps. Why? water heats and cools therefore expands and contracts. Yes, plastic connectors can break but over a long period to time/years. Steer clear of those Chinese made hoses and connectors. I’ve used a micro meter to measure the thickness and they’re never the same thickness as the OE hoses/pipe fixtures. We’ve used this stainless steel CV boot clamps with great success and zero issues after thousands of miles. We know a little about heat out here in SW AZ. It’s projected to be 109F today…🥵🥵
Great technician 👨🔧 you help lot thanks for sharing Brian ✌️
After watching this video it makes me hate my 5.4l 3v much less 😁
These videos are why I'm keeping my 00 5.4 2 valve. I dont have any of these issues.