Don't have this 🤡Work on Anything you own if you don't want to be Seating on the Side of the Road and Looking at it costing you Tens of Thousands of Dollars.
Can I just take a minute to thank you for all the effort you put into not only finding these engones (typo, but they're gone alright!), but also all the technicalities of actually making a video about the disassembly. That would be hard enough for some of us, but you make the video amusing too. :)
Been at a Ford dealer in parts for 23 years. We do ALLOT of 3.5 Eco repairs. But NEVER any lower end failure, even on the N/A FWD 3.5 with water pump failures, I bet we've only done 2-3 engines due to coolant puking in to the crankcase. And I love the comment sections lol... POS Ecoboosts... We've seen many first gen with well over 300k on them, with maybe a chain replacement. When they're well maintained they will live. Eventually turbos will fail, tell me a turbo engine where they dont? On the other hand, no matter how well you maintain your Hemi, it will wipe a cam. No matter how well you maintain your GM LS with AFM, they will fail. Thanks again Eric for an awesome vid of epic engine failure!
The addition of turbos, afm, and all sorts of tricks to meet mileage requirements. I was looking at used full size SUVs the other day and all the Fords had 3.5 ecoboosts in them. I ruled them out because I just don't trust buying a used turbo car for a daily. I bought a V8 Toyota with 230k instead. 😂 But those are all coming with twin turbo V6s now too.
@garrettlombardi443 very true. My 230k toyota came with a stack of maintenance records. Also who I felt was a very honest seller trying to nitpick every little thing wrong, like I do. Both of my other cars have a logbook of everything, even every gallon of gas that has gone in. I would probably buy from someone like that. Adding turbos, IMO, just added complexity and additional parts to eventually fail.
At least the UZ series are about the most reliable engines I have ever used. The URs are about as good. Although the belt drive 4.2 in my Audi is stupid solid too, just parts are more expensive to NLA. LS motors without active fuel management are dead reliable as well.
My Dads 2012 King Ranch F150 5.0 cracked 3 pistons at 92,000 miles so it happens to all the engine options. I know a lot of people say the Coyote is the best option but who knows. My Dad is 70 years old and absolutely babied it and always changed the oil at 4k-5k intervals. I’ve seen some of the 3.5 ecoboost engines hit 500,000 miles so maybe it just depends on whether it was built on a Wednesday or a Friday
Yes, I've heard many Gen1 engines coming out with high miles now, some having had to do the phaser/timing chains, but many haven't as well. I'm your dad's age, and I drive my 3.5 Eb for mileage, and every once in a while getting the turbo's to spin up good, but not very often. I do have a catch-can on my truck, and I'm surprised at the gunk that I pour out of it, so I'm somewhat hoping it's keeping the internals a little cleaner at least. With today's labour rate at the dealer, or even outside mechanics that know their stuff, it amazes me how much it costs to work on a six cylinder engine, but the 'fix-it' is still cheaper than upgrading the truck 'if' the truck is kept in good shape. Mine is paid for, so I feel fortunate it runs great, and will keep me maintaining it well of course!
We ar a Ford Specialty shop. At the dealer for 10 years and had my own shop for 12 years now. We have a 2018 3.5l eco with the cab in the air now that I told the guy 2 years ago, NO aftermarket oil filter and NO more then 5-7k on the oil changes. I have not seen him in 2 years until it got towed in last week. Now 2 years and 60k later (its a work truck) and the inside wanted to be on the outside. Broke a #6 connecting rod, and the rod punched a hole in the Block. Hes been going to Valvoline, Jiffy lube for LOF's of course... The Mighty oil filter (Like most other aftermarket filters) on the engine you had torn down are to restrictive. They put to many pleats in the filter element which opens the bypass and basically puts the oiling system in 'limp mode' all the time. Like running around with no oil filter.. Lack of flow and no filtration equals bearing failure... 5w30 SN+ certified oil (Whatever brand you'd like) and a Motorcraft filter if you want your ecoboost bottom end to get to 500k.
I agree 100%. You have no idea what crap oil and filters are used by these quick change shops. You pay for good oil and they still come out with a watering can of mystery oil. Where did the oil come from? Do you ever see the original containers? Use quality synthetic oil (up to SP now) and Motorcraft filters only. Pushing the oil change to 10K, even on Mobil One, is a death sentence for an engine. 5K on synthetic oil is my limit.
😂😂😂500k miles on these. They can't even pull 1/2 that mileage when pampered. The only ford engines that come close to 500k on any part of the engine are diesel engines. And I've worked at a heavy truck dealer for years..... ford is the f word next to Cummins.
I’m kinda proud that I figured out that the crank was broken within the first couple minutes of the tear down though I had to rewind a couple times to know I wasn’t crazy. If you look when he turned it over you can see the wobble in the damper as he overcomes the compression/ bind. Anyways, I took a failure analysis course on engines from caterpillar, and they spent a lot of time teaching us fracture patterns. The thing about fractures like this is they always generally start at stress risers. In this case, the fillet of the rod journal. If you look closely, there is a very smooth oval spot right at the edge of the brake where it meets the journal. This is the origin of a fatigue crack beginning at that stress riser and slowly working its way though. The crack reached a point where the structural integrity of the crank could no longer hold up to normal cyclic loads, and the crank began to transition from a fatigue crack into a brittle fracture with chevrons pointing towards the origin. This part of the failure rapidly accelerated until it finally snapped the remaining material. With only the front bearing supporting the front section of crank, it was free to move a large amount, exasperated by the loads placed on the nose by the timing chain and accessory drive belt. This movement was enough to overload the bearing, forcing it to spin, as well as damaging the oil pump thrust faces and breaking the chain guides.
I'm glad I'm not the only one! The crank was noticeably off from the first rotation. Then the destroyed crank seal.. crank nose off centre in the timing cover.. I was shouting LOOK AT THE CRANK!! by 12:50, had to check the comments to see if anyone else had seen it too >.< .. Loving every minute of your content Eric!
@@ElectricSwordfish it really was. There was a lot of theory, but it got really interesting when they would bring out piles of broken parts that were turned in and we had to try and figure out what happened, what the root cause of the failure and what was collateral damage.
@@geobrower3069I estimate a couple minutes max. The engine ran long enough for it to machine down and spin the bearing, and for that material to make it into the oil filter, but not long enough after the bearing spun for heat to build up in the main cap or for the corresponding rod bearings to be damaged by a lack of lubrication.
"This guide is unbroken," proceeds to smash said unbroken guide lol. These are not the main reasons I keep coming back to your videos but they are unique bits of flavor to your videos and are always entertaining. Thanks for the teardowns Eric!
2017 f150 with 3,5L 279000+ - put every mile on it myself, The only things performed besides routine maintenance - belt tensioner and idler pulley and new serpentine belts, battery, and last month had the exhaust welded uup just before the muffler, and did change spark plugs twice as far as anything associated with the engine. Other maintenance Both front wheel bearings, rear shocks twice, and front brakes only. Have the service records to prove it. Still has every original light bulb in it. This is a work truck, and im not even remotly a Ford fan. My personal vehicle is a hd 2500 GMC 4DR, and that has serviced me well too.
@doityourdarnedself as I stated above, this is a work truck, part of our fleet. We do not follow any scheduled maintenance other than recommended by the manufacturer, but we are asked to care for them as if they are our own vehicles. Oil changes I try to due at or around the 5K mark. Which is usually 4.5 - 5 weeks. The meter in the vehicle will say 77% oil life left??? I question that, This past Sat 4/6, the front and rear diffs were both serviced as well as the transfer case. Both diffs had the original gear oil since new, and so did the T-case. Diffs were very bad being original. T case was sampled and still generally clear fluid but changed anyhow.
Similar story. 2017 3.5 with 310,000 miles. Always complete routine maintenance. lots of easy highway miles, don't drive it hard without need, plug changes every 60-80K or so, one new set of coils. The cats are shot now but I'm not in an emissions check area. Don't gun it and rev the turbos more than needed routinely, it will last.
@@ajgorney After watching a few RUclips video's on the CATS, once they get plugged up, your fuel mileage will suffer greatly apparently, as the fuel to air mixture is thrown off, so the computer throws more fuel than needed. I saw one cat after being pulled, that had large chunks fall on the floor from the CAT, and they aren't excessively expensive. Just sayin', as I'm at 137K and I got my first check engine light, and the code was for the 02 sensor in the bank 2 catalytic converter. You can check by testing the heat going IN and OUT of the cat, where it should be hotter coming OUT, than going in.
The tear down is half the process. I wouldn't have known where to start on a Ford V-6 until I saw your video. Thanks for a complete, Every Nut and Bolt, Wiring Harness Connection and even some mechanical know how for the inevitable fastener issue. TORX head. Thanks for being straight forward and not having a "know it all" attitude. Just observing is a pleasure. This gets me interested in the complexity of the modern engines. I'm a SBC 70's era guy coming out of retirement interested in current power plants. If your other videos are this complete, your helping a lot of us Gearheads. Thanks again.
Right?! I was thinking like right at the moment that crank cracked wouldn’t someone be like “gee maybe I should’ve went deeper than just changing the timing chain” I just don’t get it lol
Back in the day I bought one of my first wreckers. It was a one-ton chevy gasser with what i thought was a bad rod-knock. I drove the thing home, pulled the engine to replace it and found out the crank was broken just like this one. Apparently they had still been using it as a "yard truck" for several months that way...kind of amazing
@@rofin9541 - I agree with you... years ago I used to be a Ford guy then I got smart and realized there are many other options that don't need to be Fixed Or Repaired Daily.
A catch can works wonders. I installed one on my 2014 F-150 3.5 ecoboost after about 15,000 miles because of carbon issues. Never had another problem with stumbling, stuttering, and No cam phasers issues ever. I emptied the catch can about every other fuel fill up….about 1,000 miles. It was nasty gas, oil, and water usually.
ford hate aside, my 2015 F150 has the 3.5ecoboost and it has been a rock solid motor for 140k and counting. The icing on the cake for me is the mileage. I get an honest 21mpg highway if I keep it to 70mph. My last F150 had the V8 and it only got 17mph although that engine was also rock solid. So over the life of my current truck, I have saved quite a bit on gas cost. I'd get another 3.5ecoboost any time. If you keep your fluids changed regularly, they are great engines.
Trade my 14 F150 with 5.0 for a GMC 6.2 and get better gas mileage. But if you spend 70 plus for a vehicle and have to worry about the gas mileage you best stay home. Bought a 78 F250 with a 400 auto trans and got 12 to maybe 16 on the road at 60, and have had Ford Motor vehicle until I just got this 24 GMC just because Ford Dealerships did not want to deal.
@@Old940 I love the old fords but sadly, ford does seem to be going downhill but I've had great luck with their trucks over the years. As for the mileage... I had a 69 mustang with a built 390 engine. It put out almost 500hp and got 8mpg. It was a fun car but not something I'd take on a road trip. Now I have a 70 mach 1 with the 351 cleveland and it is the sweet spot for me.
@@MilitaryTalkGuy Good old 390 CJ. Yes I have had great luck with Ford but the dealerships now think they got you and you will not dare go to another brand. I went to 4 dealerships in different towns and two states with that attitude so I got a GMC, could have gotten a Chevy for a little less but at 83 I wanted a GMC .
Can't wait for this. I have a gen 1 and I'm always interested to see what will happen if I don't change my oil/keep an eye on coolant/replace the phasors/align with Mercury in retrograde/sacrifice the right goat.
No you are a Mechanic once you finish trade-school and your apprenticeship. Just because you change your own oil and air cleaner doesn't make a person a trades-person.
@@jimcockburn4652 Ehh, no. I've seen "techs" straight out of trade school that will never be mechanics. The one I'm thinking of got taught how to do brakes. GM, Ford and Chrysler. And could not figure out the rear drum brakes on an MGA. He'd never been taught to take one side apart and use the other side as a guide to reassemble. And the repeat. But, he knew how to do brakes......
Gen 1 EB in an Expedition EL 105k miles. Runs strong. 5w40 Lucas full synthetic and no more tapping at startup. That engine looks like it missed a few OCI. 1/64 weep hole in the IC for drainage. Took A Durango RT owner for a spin and he said "something this big should not move that fast". Love my EB. Water pump was done at 50k. No other maintenance done aside from oil and plugs. Check plug gap every 3k and use 91 religiously. Gapped at 0.027 and it helps with low speed stumble. Great tear down❤
I had an ‘86 S10 blazer. 2.8L. It had a broken crank for what turned out to be over a year. First sign was the oil pressure dropping when I stepped on the gas. I didn’t know what was wrong. Just kept driving it. I was on my way home from school one weekend when it started “knocking”. I started tearing it down and I could wiggle the balancer a lot. After I got it apart I found the crank broken right in front of the second main bearing. It ran just fine but there were pieces of steel in pan the size of rice grains. No tunes or turbos. Just pure GM 2.8 power.
Man I had an 88 s10 blazer. Those things were just built like tanks. I got tboned and flipped it over onto the roof. We rolled it back with some of the fire department and I drove it home from the tow yard the next morning (she leaked some gas when it was rolled over and the FD wouldnt let me drive it that night.)
As I told you before, in 2014, when I bought my Ford, I was told by a mechanic that I wanted a long-term dependable engine to buy a 5.0L. - and since then, I've been glad several times. Especially since I know several people who do not have anything good to say about them.
Agreed 100% brother, I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it with 160,000 miles on it and still going strong and its a beast and it sounds like a beast with the Borla ATAK exhaust on it as well
Pre 2018 I would agree with you. I have one in my truck and it’s still going strong at 165000 miles. Post 2018 in normal ford fashion, once they worked the bugs out and had a reliable engine they decided to screw it up with direct injection, cylinder deactivation, and the plasma coated cylinders which leave it a crapshoot if you get an oil burner or not. If I were to buy a new one I’d probably go with the 2.7 at this point.
The only time I have seen a broken crank was in 1984 when someone drove into the shop with a V6 diesel in a Buick Century. Drove in, crank broken in half, running on 3 cylinders. Also never saw another v6 diesel again. What a racket that engine made.
I don't know what language you use when you're not making videos, but I'm sure glad you keep them clean and enjoyable to watch. It's nice to see a young man with great attitude. God bless you 🙏🚓
@@I_Do_Carsgood dad! My 4 year old heard me in the garage saying Dammit! Now he walks around the housing saying awww dammit when things go wrong. They see and hear everything we do.!
I literally just watched this video to show my 4 year old what is happening under the hood of our expedition..... And to help him fall asleep at bedtime haha..... Thank you for this video
Alot easier to be civil when you're making YT vids, instead of trying to make flat rate time working for a shop boss, and a pile like this rolls into your shop bay.
Wow, I'll never probably not ever fix another engine again, so much has changed since my old days of fixing. You could fix engine, you do understand engine's. You do have the no how's, and if I ever need an engine I be sure to buy one of yours. You have the know how... Great video..
I’ve always been impressed at the power the eco-boost line puts out. When shopping for a new work truck last year, I did a lot of research on the Ecoboost and I learned that NA was the way to go in the F-series truck due to cam phaser and timing chain issues… This engine had already had a set installed which doesn’t help my argument… Thanks for another great tear down! 👍🏻
The harmonic balancer wobbles on the attempt to turn it over. This maybe a front end collision that broke the crank. The timing chain could have been broken when the engine stopped. Metal would've been circulated from starting at insurance auctions, transport, salvage yard. Ect. Not alot of heat in that bearing journal.
Wasn't there enough damage to the main bearing and the crank to suggest the engine ran for a bit? Plus metal pumped throughout the oil system. If the damage was secondary to a collision, I don't think there would have been time to pump swarf throughout the oiling system.
Likely the most valuable part of that engine, intact injector plugs are worth money as replacement parts when they break. This engine likely lots of idle, and really long oil change intervals, and the final straw likely wearing bearings from poor oil pressure, then the crank breaking from a sharp edge left in manufacture, or a flaw in the steel casting.
I have 266,000 miles on my 2020 Transit 350 3.5 twin turbo. No issues, runs great, weighs 7300 pounds and gets between 15-21 mph according to my loaded weight( up to 3,000 lb ) and headwinds across America. 10 speed auto.
I've got a second gen 3.5 Ecoboost, it currently has 34,000 miles. It got its THIRD engine at 31,000 miles. The last engine had a hole in #3 piston and valve, the dealer could not figure out the cause. Talk about a vehicle I have zero confidence in. I just thank God I bought the extended warranty, the bill they sent to Ford for this engine after my $100 deductible was $16,500.
They have been having a lot of problems with valves and valve springs failing lately. I wonder if they switched suppliers to cut costs or something. I've even new 5.0's with dropped valves.
The pro mechanic that worked on it beat the crankpulley back on with a hammer like a hack and cracked the crankshaft... it was just a ticking time 💣... I'll bet money !!
Interesting looking chunk of scrap metal there! I like my 2 1997 Isuzu Rodeos...one has 482,000 miles...valve guide seals started to leak...other has 145,000 miles....runs great. Happy trails...👍
Dealer tech here: yeah unfortunatel this is becomign a decently common thing with these second gen 3.5 EBs. I've changed a couple in Raptors for this exact reason: the cranks breaking reight behind the first counter weight. Had a lot of these spin rod and main bearings as well. Even had one where the thrust bearing left the chat and the crank had way too much endplay.
@@doityourdarnedself Not that I've seen. Every time I've seen this, the bottom end never looked neglected or like it was starved for oil. I still have the pictures from when I had to show Ford what broke lol
2012 Lariat Ecoboost 4wd, 285k miles. Synthetic oil. Watch fluids. Don't treat it like a race car. Service 4wd, tranny, axle, plugs and coil packs, IEW's , etc. Truck has been amazing for me. If it makes it 1 more year it will be my sons first truck. No dents, no rust,interior perfect. Way better than my first vehicle.
I watch these vids with my kids and the dog. The kids star out enthusiastic but soon get bored and move on but the dog stays and gets real interested, triggering on any unusual noise. When you got to the busted crank he stood up, walked to the TV and barked. Recon he was saying, I knew that was a busted crank. Smart mut.
Another great teardown video Eric. Thanks for my Saturday night entertainment. My brother (a Ford hater) would love what you said about making you use every tool in the toolbox. :)
I had a customer come in with a beetle that ran perfectly until you lifted up on the throttle then BAM BAM BAM.... Crank was broken just like this one. Crazy that it still ran well.
I had a 2012 Lincoln with the 3.5 twin turbo engine. 110,000 miles. It was flawless for the year I owned it. It had more power than I knew what to do with. Scary even. I never put the pedal to the floor, bc it felt crazy fast at half throttle.
Well, sure, but to be fair, that's comparing good engine repair vs bad engine teardown. Not quite the same thing. Agreed that it's always entertaining though!
4 years into owning my 2020 F150 and the gen two 3.5 has been flawless, with the exception of a crush washer leaking coolant on one of the turbos. Great fuel economy, stupid torque, not really that hard to work on. I added a Ford Performance catch can to try and keep the intake tract a bit cleaner, would've loved to see how the intake valves looked on this engine. I bought my truck with the intention to own it as long as possible so I'm hopeful it won't need an engine replacement for a good long while, not sure if I'll be able to say the same about the 10R, but time will tell. At the very least I know I won't have to worry about the cab and bed rusting out from all of the salty midwest winters we have :) The gen three 3.5 is pretty similar to the gen two, I think both are considerably better than the gen one in many regards (better valvetrain design, beefier timing components, oil squirters, port injection, better rod and piston). The gen three gets a bit more complex because Ford added an EGR system including an EGR cooler to the gen three (similar to the 2.7) which I'm willing to bet will be a problem point once those trucks start getting into higher mileages. Midway through production (par for the course with Ford) they also changed the spark plugs on the gen three to an indexed plug that uses a flat washer seat instead of a tapered seat which I'm sure will lead to confusion in coming years.
When I was a mechanic I used to keep a tensioner pulled, so that I could stand an oil filter up while I filled it up. Worked well for large diesel filters.
Owning a '19 F150 with a 3.5 makes this an appropriate video for me. As a guy who worked years as a mechanic before they became rolling computers makes me happy that I no longer work on these vehicles. I just had the cam phasers changed under warranty, would never want to tackle that job, especially since the mechanic had to do it twice as one of the new Ford phasers was bad. As to maintenance, I purchased the truck used but my dealer had all the service records for my use. That truck had been serviced every 3-4000 miles since new and appeared to have been babied since it was spotless even before the dealer did his pre delivery cleanup. I have added a catch can and it does pick up some minimal blow by.
Here we go I got ( beer + peanuts + chips + candy and we are on the road again, hey what is wrong with the engine ? Making a funny noise, hope we get home ok ! Don't stop now.
My 2019 Raptor suffered a crankshaft failure on June 13, 2024. The truck is stock. Never been jumped, hooned, boosted, or even used to tow anything more than maybe 3,000lbs. Seeing this video really makes me wonder about these engines.
As an Ecoboost 3.5L owner in a F150 I can say that if you change your oil often and keep up on all of the required maintenance these engines are long lived. Mine has 157K on it and runs like new. However they do not tolerate neglectful owners.
Agreed. I love mine. I had the notorious oil leak from the vacuum pump but other than that it's been great. Even that I did myself for 150 bucks. Good oil every 5k or less. Oil is cheap. Engines are not.
Especially if the owner drives a lot of short trips. Really any engine with direct injection should either avoid short trips or change their oil way more often. Gasoline DI= diesel-like soot and high levels of unburned fuel in the engine oil.
@karlschauff7989 I agree. I do not subscribe to the manufacturer recommended oil changes. DI leads to fuel dilution and turbos cook the oil. 5k oil changes unless I'm towing alot and then I do 3k.
Just got mine back from dealer for cam phaser rattle at 150k. 2nd owner. I assume job was done before as old ones don't last that long in mileage. I made sure dealer installed the new ones along with chains, guides, etc while that deep into it. During first oil change, I couldn't believe truck had a plastic oil pan... yeah thats getting the "upgrade" to the alumn one piece soon.
Amazing to me that you can buy vehicle in the everyday automotive marketplace with such a complex engine in it. When you think about 1955-1980 V8s from GM and Ford and how serviceable and relatively easy they were to remove and rebuild and compare them to the many modern day engines and propulsion systems being marketed and sold as everyday transportation, it really boggles my old mind. This is an engine that would have been would have been an exotic racing engine in the late 1960s or 1970s. Something that you might find in some exotic vehicle, not in an everyday driver. And kudos to our automotive technicians and mechanics who have bravely stayed in the business and done the homework necessary to work on, service and repair these complex systems. I have a 2019 Ford F150 4X4 with the 5.0 L in it and a 10 speed automatic. Driving it is amazing. So much power and so comfortable. I also have a 1993 F150 2X4 with a 4.9L and a five speed manual. Love driving both of them for different reasons. The difference between the two vehicles for comfort is simply light years. And each of them is simply universes away from the beloved 1952 Ford F1 from my high school days. We are living in an amazing time when it comes to automotive technology advancements.
The port fi 302 was simple as a hammer, made tons of power, and ran forever. This new stuff makes a few % better economy at double the cost of manufacture and repair. All thanks to a self perpetuating bureaucracy.
Those rings! I've been reducing the oil change intervals on my 2.7L F-150 more & more. I'm currently down to 4k mile oil changes. After seeing this, it just became 3500!
Any modern engine needs 3k-4k oil change intervals no matter what the manufacturer says. Between the tiny clearances, the small pathways in the VVT solenoids, etc. it is a must. Throw in direct injection and/or turbos, and it's downright required. I guarantee most of these failures would go away if people would just change their oil.
It spun the front bearing first, and the rest followed. Great points on secondary rings on the engine's condition before failure. The oil filter tells the story here.
ERIC: You had made a comment about the intake port angle being too steep to see the intake valves. Might I suggest a "probe camera" for you. You know the one, carried by any auto store, looks like proctology equipment. Just video the screen of that puppy. Valves, pistons (or lack there of) with the head on, up the nose... the possibilities are endless. Keep up the awesome job. Cheers man.
Yeah I was going to mention or recommend a Borescope or something similar, aircraft mechanics and nondestructive inspections use them all the time. It would make for a cool video!
This engine looks like it did not have regular oil changes, the massive carbon build up on the pistons and the second compression ring that cemented itself to the piston implies that this was a hard working engine that just did not get a lot of regular attention. I agree, the crankshaft had a flaw....a big flaw to be sure.
Usually stuck/carboned 2nd ring indicates poor quality top ring seal. More than likely it was babied too much at break in. I drove mine fairly hard without too much rpm from new like you would break in a fresh rebuild and it doesn't use a drop of oil between 5k mile oil changes. It also gets the piss driven out of it daily. Most engines maintain much better ring seal with harder use, especially now with the thinner low tension rings. The combustion pressure helps push the top ring into the cylinder wall harder, which is super important when it is new and the cylinder still has some roughness to it from honing.
I'd say the oil changes were not that bad. No sludge to speak of and no signs of oil starvation anywhere. I'm not saying that they might not have been great, but they were not bad. This was a crank problem, and unless someone points out a major front impact on the chassis, I'd go with the casting flaw diagnosis. I'd also look closely at the fillets where the journals were machined. Yeah, I'd look closely at the crank pulley, and perhaps look at the front components of the engine for signs of impact damage, but only to rule out impact.
I would have told you I love my 2019 3.5 ecoboost until the #4 cylinder blew at 100k. I had the engine replaced and the transmission went out 75 miles later! $25,000 later I wish I'd just driven off in the river. I'll never own another.
If you had an engine replaced and then the trans blew out 75 miles later, that is not a coincidence, they likely did not store it properly or did not reassemble the engine to the trans properly, something had to be connected
I don't work on cars for a living, but I love your videos, the bits of humor you throw in, and have learned a ton from watching them. Thanks, and keep them coming!
Bummer! I have a 2019 3.5 Eco with 78K miles. So far so good. I'm also a freak about all maintenance, particularly oil changes. Full synthetic every 5K or before. Hope nothing like this doesn't happen to mine. Now I'll be thinking about this all the time!🤨
@@dertmatyui as far as my 30 seconds of research went, yes, if the ad is skippable after 5 seconds, a lot of companies will only pay if you interact with the ad, or watch 30 seconds. This is total laymen, google-fu here. So please don’t take what I am saying as gospel. It can’t hurt?
@@GoneAsGoneCanBe If I wanted to watch commercials, I'd go back to watching television; the reason I started my RUclips was too many commercials. Twelve years now I've been using ad blockers on my account. Should I feel bad?
During my working life I only ever encountered 2 broken crankshafts. Number one was a Leyland diesel bus engine which lay on its side under the vehicle, it probably had done a million and a half miles for the Brisbane City Council, Queensland Australia. Bought by my employer very well used, no known reason for it to break. Number two was a Mazda 3500 diesel bus owned by the school I worked at in the 80s and 90s again outer Brisbane. It was found to have a loose pulley Harmonic balancer, I tightened it up but it worked loose again, so I fitted a new pulley but the damage had already been done, soon after the driver phoned to say that her bus was making a bad noise. I having had experience with a Toyota diesel making a bad noise with a clogged injector, went out and checked it out, loosened off the injectors one at a time, the noise stropped as soon as I loosened number one. Swapped number one injector to another cylinder but the noise stayed with number one, on further examining I found the front pulley to be out about 3mm. I was able to fit a new crankshaft without removing the engine from the chassis. Ted from down under.
Good job on the tear down, , a ver complex engine compared to the old 283 and 350 Chevys I used to work on. All I can say is run clean fuel, never hot dog em and always keep the oil changed regularly with good filters etc. I could see dollar bills flying as you tore this puppy down. then the whole bank flew by with the crank.
243k on my 1st gen 3.5 ecoboost. Original timing chain and guides, turbos. Waterpump changed at 190k , a couple cop rebuilds. Its been tuned since new also
While watching you tear down this engine a random thought ran through my mind. For some reason I would like to see you make a Halloween episode. Where you systematically tear down and creatively destroy every part as you go. Using such proper tools as saws , grinders, hammers, hydraulic press and whatever else seems fun. Just treat everything like a water pump. Put on a monster costume and have fun with it. While laughing maniacally. Just a thought. Hmmmm.
One thing I'm noticing is GDI engines carbon up piston ring grooves causing the rings to stick and consume oil. I use about a coffee cup of transmission fluid in my sons car ( 1.6 Hyundai which used a quart and a half of oil every 3k mi) and ran it a week then changed the oil with some good oil. It doesn't use any oil now. Old school remedy for stuck rings.
Wow, how do you crack the balancers on the crankshaft? And more impressively, how do you not have the pistons turn into a family meal of piston mcnuggets?
The machining of the "pork chops" of the crank can be stress risers for a break point. Most cranks have that, but crank failures are rare. Aggressive programmer tunes can make for stress that breaks things, especially high boost at low revs.
WAY back, I had a 283 in my old chevy, that I pulled out and rebuilt. It was a great experience, learning how everything comes apart, gets some new parts, some rebuilt, goes back together, and fires up again! Since that day, I've done most all of my own repairs and maintenance, and most often will check a RUclips video first, to have a clear grasp of things to watch for in doing a good job. I've gain a lot of tools over the years as well, so I feel fortunate now, having the ability and confidence to take on just about any job after seeing how it's done on RUclips. There's a few more tools that come make life easier, but I'm getting older now, and think it's time to hold up on buying more tools for the most part, and jobs 'under' the vehicle, I may be better off paying someone else. lol. I say this, after doing my oil change and fuel filters as well as a full lube job on my diesel pusher motorhome!
funny, I had a 1948 plymouth straight 6 that I rebuilt, my father made me sell to my brother a few monthes later my brother heard this knocking ... He said I did not tighten the flywheel, should have taped it when I dropped the pan ... Crank broke between number 4 and 5 ... I found it amazing it still ran !
I've never owned a ford past the warranty. Getting dealers to make warranty repairs is nearly impossible. "we'll only perform the work if you bought it here" Mother ford stated there franchises and have no control on denying warranty repairs. Ford can blow goats.
Some time ago I was part of a team commission a solis shaft small gas tubine driving a generator. The turbine rotor spun at about 13000 rpm with the turbine rotor shaft directly coupled to a planetary gear box that spun the generator at 1800 rpm. The turbine fuel control system used a proportional, integral, derivative (PID) strategy to maintain a consistent generator rpm. The turbine/generator was running at less than half load when a large chiller started doubling the load immediately. The PID control system was not completely tuned and it drove the "throttle" fully open in response to the load. The system rpm overshot and the "throttle" completely closed. The system rpm then undershot which drove the throttle back to full open. I was not present at the time and the operators allowed this on-off cycle to continue for about 15 minutes at which point the engine control system initiated a hot shut down the operation due to high vibration. The turbine was restarted after cool down and it ran until the vibration monitors readings went off the chart and shut it down again. A tear down of the turbine revealed that the turbine shaft broke. It was not a straight shear as if a saw cut through it but rather a ball and socket type break. Looking at the break configuration revealed why the turbine couls still start and turn the generator. The break of the crank shaft in your video reminded me of thev break i just described. Turbos can add a lot of combustion pressures in the cylinders which increases the forces transmitted to the crankshaft. Any imperfections in the molecular structure within the crankshaft casting could wth the high pressures prent due to the turbos could have led to the failure.
I was a Porsche tech for 10 years before opening my own shop. I loved doing engine repairs and all of the sophistication they had. I attended all of the Porsche tech schools offered. Disassembly and investigation of what went wrong intrigued me. The Porche 930 Turbo and the 928 engines were among the most interesting to me. I loved it after reassembly and installation turning the key and hearing it "breathe fire". Your verbal thoughts all came back to mind as you were doing this. Nice that you had electric power tools whereas I had to use air with that pesky air hose impeding my movements. It's pretty wild to see that domestic engines are so much more refined these days. They've come a long way. Thanks for this...
I wanted to see this engine broken down for a while and I have to say, im very impressed with its build! Unlike the 2.7l I think, this one doesn't have too many points of failure, change your oil every 5k miles, add good fuel and plugs and I bet it will go the full mile to 300k or more all day
The gen 2 3.5 is a solid engine. First, the 3.5 EB out of a stock F150 was a Le Mans engine 20 years ago, save for the forged steel rods vs aluminum in the racing application (where longevity means 24 hours). A tuned version of the 3.5 STILL IS a Le Mans engine. It is an absolute monster, and the few weak points are gone since 2021 (phasers finally fixed, chain stretch, intake ports, turbo cooling, et c). It has oil and water cooled turbos. It has a forged 4340 crank and forged con rods. It has monstrous 6 bolt main bearings. The only major remaining shortcomings are the exhaust manifolds that would be at home on a model T and Ford moving back to EGR. It is a racecar engine, and if you treat it like a beater Toyota, you will kill it, exactly like the yahoos who destroyed the truck above. Tolerance of abuse is only a virtue for the foolish and irresponsible; such people are better served with the cheapest vehicles that they are willing to tolerate.
If you check the P.O. If there was one, for the original complaint, I would bet it had shifting problems. These had a tech bulletin about the A frame failure in the trans that let’s the wire harness short the number 1 shift solenoid. When this happens the trans will shift into 1st gear no matter what the speed is. If it happens at highway speeds it will over wind the engine to extremely high rpm’s. That could do this damage.
Nice tear down video and I enjoyed your humorous remarks. " The rear crank seems to be in good shape". As you know, when a front main bearing goes out ( maybe due to the same reason all the secondary piston rings were stuck) it would loose some of it's transverse load capability at this forward location supporting the crank. This would allow the forward end of the crank to flex out of it's axial location very slightly. That would induce bending concentration into the crank at the counterweight location, since this is a relatively softer location for the crank bending load path before it's next bearing support if there was abnormal bending introduced that it was not designed to react. As you mentioned, this would set up harmonic vibration at certain rpms, eventually causing stress fatigue cracking after many cycles of rpms at any weak point or flaw in the crank as you pointed out. Under normal wear use, these very small "flaws" would not be an issue. The real issue to me is what caused all the seized oil rings and the front main bearing damage? I have one of these engines. a 21, gen 3. I only use fomoco oil and filters and syn blend oil with 2500m changes, and 100k ext warranty.
The camshaft flat spots are for special tools to hold the cams in place while changing and aligning the timing chain and phasers so they can't be used to to rotate cams once the locking tool is in place
broken crank shaft has happened to a few Raptors i know of . I run 5w50 motul 8100 oil in mine with new warranty engine after my original engine spun rod bearing at 16k miles
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
Don't have this 🤡Work on Anything you own if you don't want to be Seating on the Side of the Road and Looking at it costing you Tens of Thousands of Dollars.
I think we found the guy who used vice grips on the cams
@@cm-hw5ww He's sure flying fast and loose with the capital letters!!
Pin of shame
I'll have what she's having...🤣
@@I_Do_Cars… an e-biker that must get smoked by a Raptor doing 100 while he’s in his bicycle lane from the special academy 😂
Can I just take a minute to thank you for all the effort you put into not only finding these engones (typo, but they're gone alright!), but also all the technicalities of actually making a video about the disassembly. That would be hard enough for some of us, but you make the video amusing too. :)
He certainly has a good sense of humour
Back in 2016, I wanted to get the 3.5L in my service van. My boss opted for the 3.7L. 8 years, 170k, and one water pump, it's still going strong.
2015 3.5 2wd 160k. Oil changes when light comes on and two tranny fluid changes. Replaced battery and a throttle body @110k
2014 honda crv. 198k miles. 10k miles between oil changes. Only changing brakes.😂
@@omardevonlittle3817Comparing a Honda and a Ford….not fair. 😂
@@omardevonlittle38172003 Mustang GT all original 335k miles only time the motor has been opened was to replace the oem guides and tensioners at 300k
If your taking about the cyclone then clearly you’ve never owned a rwd and awd/fwd. have fun doing the water pump then
Been at a Ford dealer in parts for 23 years. We do ALLOT of 3.5 Eco repairs. But NEVER any lower end failure, even on the N/A FWD 3.5 with water pump failures, I bet we've only done 2-3 engines due to coolant puking in to the crankcase. And I love the comment sections lol... POS Ecoboosts... We've seen many first gen with well over 300k on them, with maybe a chain replacement. When they're well maintained they will live. Eventually turbos will fail, tell me a turbo engine where they dont? On the other hand, no matter how well you maintain your Hemi, it will wipe a cam. No matter how well you maintain your GM LS with AFM, they will fail. Thanks again Eric for an awesome vid of epic engine failure!
The addition of turbos, afm, and all sorts of tricks to meet mileage requirements. I was looking at used full size SUVs the other day and all the Fords had 3.5 ecoboosts in them. I ruled them out because I just don't trust buying a used turbo car for a daily. I bought a V8 Toyota with 230k instead. 😂 But those are all coming with twin turbo V6s now too.
Sadly your correct about the hemi and LS with afm but im a huge believer in maintenance it will treat you well most engine failures are due to daglect
@garrettlombardi443 very true. My 230k toyota came with a stack of maintenance records. Also who I felt was a very honest seller trying to nitpick every little thing wrong, like I do. Both of my other cars have a logbook of everything, even every gallon of gas that has gone in. I would probably buy from someone like that. Adding turbos, IMO, just added complexity and additional parts to eventually fail.
That's why i prefer v8 toyota.. don't have these expensive issues..
At least the UZ series are about the most reliable engines I have ever used. The URs are about as good. Although the belt drive 4.2 in my Audi is stupid solid too, just parts are more expensive to NLA. LS motors without active fuel management are dead reliable as well.
My Dads 2012 King Ranch F150 5.0 cracked 3 pistons at 92,000 miles so it happens to all the engine options. I know a lot of people say the Coyote is the best option but who knows. My Dad is 70 years old and absolutely babied it and always changed the oil at 4k-5k intervals. I’ve seen some of the 3.5 ecoboost engines hit 500,000 miles so maybe it just depends on whether it was built on a Wednesday or a Friday
I would say, the Monday engine is probably the worst one, when they are still hung over from the weekend...
It's because it's a Ford. Nothing new
@@Jeff-sp7bgmaybe so, but they run like a scalded dog!
Yes, I've heard many Gen1 engines coming out with high miles now, some having had to do the phaser/timing chains, but many haven't as well. I'm your dad's age, and I drive my 3.5 Eb for mileage, and every once in a while getting the turbo's to spin up good, but not very often. I do have a catch-can on my truck, and I'm surprised at the gunk that I pour out of it, so I'm somewhat hoping it's keeping the internals a little cleaner at least. With today's labour rate at the dealer, or even outside mechanics that know their stuff, it amazes me how much it costs to work on a six cylinder engine, but the 'fix-it' is still cheaper than upgrading the truck 'if' the truck is kept in good shape. Mine is paid for, so I feel fortunate it runs great, and will keep me maintaining it well of course!
You are my regular go to ɓut I don't tell her about the Ford issues you are unlocking!
We ar a Ford Specialty shop. At the dealer for 10 years and had my own shop for 12 years now. We have a 2018 3.5l eco with the cab in the air now that I told the guy 2 years ago, NO aftermarket oil filter and NO more then 5-7k on the oil changes. I have not seen him in 2 years until it got towed in last week. Now 2 years and 60k later (its a work truck) and the inside wanted to be on the outside. Broke a #6 connecting rod, and the rod punched a hole in the Block. Hes been going to Valvoline, Jiffy lube for LOF's of course... The Mighty oil filter (Like most other aftermarket filters) on the engine you had torn down are to restrictive. They put to many pleats in the filter element which opens the bypass and basically puts the oiling system in 'limp mode' all the time. Like running around with no oil filter.. Lack of flow and no filtration equals bearing failure... 5w30 SN+ certified oil (Whatever brand you'd like) and a Motorcraft filter if you want your ecoboost bottom end to get to 500k.
I agree 100%. You have no idea what crap oil and filters are used by these quick change shops. You pay for good oil and they still come out with a watering can of mystery oil. Where did the oil come from? Do you ever see the original containers? Use quality synthetic oil (up to SP now) and Motorcraft filters only. Pushing the oil change to 10K, even on Mobil One, is a death sentence for an engine. 5K on synthetic oil is my limit.
😂😂😂500k miles on these. They can't even pull 1/2 that mileage when pampered. The only ford engines that come close to 500k on any part of the engine are diesel engines. And I've worked at a heavy truck dealer for years..... ford is the f word next to Cummins.
I’m kinda proud that I figured out that the crank was broken within the first couple minutes of the tear down though I had to rewind a couple times to know I wasn’t crazy. If you look when he turned it over you can see the wobble in the damper as he overcomes the compression/ bind.
Anyways, I took a failure analysis course on engines from caterpillar, and they spent a lot of time teaching us fracture patterns. The thing about fractures like this is they always generally start at stress risers. In this case, the fillet of the rod journal. If you look closely, there is a very smooth oval spot right at the edge of the brake where it meets the journal. This is the origin of a fatigue crack beginning at that stress riser and slowly working its way though. The crack reached a point where the structural integrity of the crank could no longer hold up to normal cyclic loads, and the crank began to transition from a fatigue crack into a brittle fracture with chevrons pointing towards the origin. This part of the failure rapidly accelerated until it finally snapped the remaining material.
With only the front bearing supporting the front section of crank, it was free to move a large amount, exasperated by the loads placed on the nose by the timing chain and accessory drive belt. This movement was enough to overload the bearing, forcing it to spin, as well as damaging the oil pump thrust faces and breaking the chain guides.
I'm glad I'm not the only one!
The crank was noticeably off from the first rotation. Then the destroyed crank seal.. crank nose off centre in the timing cover..
I was shouting LOOK AT THE CRANK!! by 12:50, had to check the comments to see if anyone else had seen it too >.<
..
Loving every minute of your content Eric!
Metal fatigue, more specificly in engines, has always fascinated me. I bet that was a super interesting course.
@@ElectricSwordfish it really was. There was a lot of theory, but it got really interesting when they would bring out piles of broken parts that were turned in and we had to try and figure out what happened, what the root cause of the failure and what was collateral damage.
Great analysis, I wonder how long the engine was run after the crank failed.
Amazing that the engine was still in tune!
@@geobrower3069I estimate a couple minutes max. The engine ran long enough for it to machine down and spin the bearing, and for that material to make it into the oil filter, but not long enough after the bearing spun for heat to build up in the main cap or for the corresponding rod bearings to be damaged by a lack of lubrication.
Re: oil pan debris comment - "The Bearing Sea". Good one that didn't go unnoticed😄!
Bearing up under the strainer...
I snickered more than I should have at that too!!😅
More like the Dead Sea
No one else picked up on the comment @ 32:20 "front to back...the clean way"
"This guide is unbroken," proceeds to smash said unbroken guide lol. These are not the main reasons I keep coming back to your videos but they are unique bits of flavor to your videos and are always entertaining. Thanks for the teardowns Eric!
That was hilarious when I saw him do that!!
2017 f150 with 3,5L 279000+ - put every mile on it myself, The only things performed besides routine maintenance - belt tensioner and idler pulley and new serpentine belts, battery, and last month had the exhaust welded uup just before the muffler, and did change spark plugs twice as far as anything associated with the engine. Other maintenance Both front wheel bearings, rear shocks twice, and front brakes only. Have the service records to prove it. Still has every original light bulb in it. This is a work truck, and im not even remotly a Ford fan. My personal vehicle is a hd 2500 GMC 4DR, and that has serviced me well too.
Must be plenty of highway/open road driving
How often do you change your oil?
@doityourdarnedself as I stated above, this is a work truck, part of our fleet. We do not follow any scheduled maintenance other than recommended by the manufacturer, but we are asked to care for them as if they are our own vehicles. Oil changes I try to due at or around the 5K mark. Which is usually 4.5 - 5 weeks. The meter in the vehicle will say 77% oil life left??? I question that, This past Sat 4/6, the front and rear diffs were both serviced as well as the transfer case. Both diffs had the original gear oil since new, and so did the T-case. Diffs were very bad being original. T case was sampled and still generally clear fluid but changed anyhow.
Similar story. 2017 3.5 with 310,000 miles. Always complete routine maintenance. lots of easy highway miles, don't drive it hard without need, plug changes every 60-80K or so, one new set of coils. The cats are shot now but I'm not in an emissions check area. Don't gun it and rev the turbos more than needed routinely, it will last.
@@ajgorney After watching a few RUclips video's on the CATS, once they get plugged up, your fuel mileage will suffer greatly apparently, as the fuel to air mixture is thrown off, so the computer throws more fuel than needed. I saw one cat after being pulled, that had large chunks fall on the floor from the CAT, and they aren't excessively expensive. Just sayin', as I'm at 137K and I got my first check engine light, and the code was for the 02 sensor in the bank 2 catalytic converter. You can check by testing the heat going IN and OUT of the cat, where it should be hotter coming OUT, than going in.
The tear down is half the process. I wouldn't have known where to start on a Ford V-6 until I saw your video. Thanks for a complete, Every Nut and Bolt, Wiring Harness Connection and even some mechanical know how for the inevitable fastener issue. TORX head. Thanks for being straight forward and not having a "know it all" attitude. Just observing is a pleasure. This gets me interested in the complexity of the modern engines. I'm a SBC 70's era guy coming out of retirement interested in current power plants. If your other videos are this complete, your helping a lot of us Gearheads. Thanks again.
I agree. The crank shaft had a factory flaw.
"That sounded terrible! Let's keep going." Throwing caution to the wind 😂
Throwing waterpump into the wind as well
Huston, we have a problem, we cannot rotate the engine in its forward motion. " Err, its shagged "
@@daewooparts The water pump was still a good unit.
Caution is the only thing left to throw at that engine. Channel locks were already thrown at it.
@@brocklagunas3055 the waterpump has a plastic impeller. They are known to seperate and spin on the metal shaft under torque. Its not worth reusing
I see all kinds of bearings, the Bering Sea (bearing see) 😅 Pure genius.
Watching vids like this explains why I have a profound respect for automotive technicians.
Auto Tech here- thanks. Too bad the industry hates us.
This also should make it obvious how insane it was to design and engineer a 3.5 that deals with boosted 400 hp reliably
The sounds that engine was making when it broke had to be phenomenal.
Right?! I was thinking like right at the moment that crank cracked wouldn’t someone be like “gee maybe I should’ve went deeper than just changing the timing chain” I just don’t get it lol
Ginger Baker would`ve love the noise.
It sounded like a typical ford with 1/2 the mileage of a gm truck that still runs like new
@DG-sf9ei gm is less reliable than ford and dodge is less reliable than gm. They all make unreliable cars these days it doesn't matter what company
Back in the day I bought one of my first wreckers. It was a one-ton chevy gasser with what i thought was a bad rod-knock. I drove the thing home, pulled the engine to replace it and found out the crank was broken just like this one. Apparently they had still been using it as a "yard truck" for several months that way...kind of amazing
The initial turn over... Rodney is that you?
Turns out it Rodney’s buddy Hank who was having a very cranky day.
That's when I spotted the crank issue.
Rodney, is that you? Have you "left"?🤪
It really is the best part, I just wait and listen for that little knock!
I’ll tell you how it happens… a 5 Star Tune and a pair of turbos.
On an Edge? I don’t think so. Just a POS Ford Eco Boost
@@rofin9541I don't think this came out of an Edge lol The Edge never got a 3.5 tt only the 3.0 I believe
it says f150
@rofin9541 literally 20 seconds into the video he says f150
@@rofin9541 - I agree with you... years ago I used to be a Ford guy then I got smart and realized there are many other options that don't need to be Fixed Or Repaired Daily.
A catch can works wonders. I installed one on my 2014 F-150 3.5 ecoboost after about 15,000 miles because of carbon issues. Never had another problem with stumbling, stuttering, and No cam phasers issues ever. I emptied the catch can about every other fuel fill up….about 1,000 miles. It was nasty gas, oil, and water usually.
ford hate aside, my 2015 F150 has the 3.5ecoboost and it has been a rock solid motor for 140k and counting. The icing on the cake for me is the mileage. I get an honest 21mpg highway if I keep it to 70mph. My last F150 had the V8 and it only got 17mph although that engine was also rock solid. So over the life of my current truck, I have saved quite a bit on gas cost. I'd get another 3.5ecoboost any time. If you keep your fluids changed regularly, they are great engines.
Trade my 14 F150 with 5.0 for a GMC 6.2 and get better gas mileage. But if you spend 70 plus for a vehicle and have to worry about the gas mileage you best stay home. Bought a 78 F250 with a 400 auto trans and got 12 to maybe 16 on the road at 60, and have had Ford Motor vehicle until I just got this 24 GMC just because Ford Dealerships did not want to deal.
2003 f150 4.2l v6 300,000 miles just filters oil ,2 plug swaps and one coil pack. New boost crap not needed.
@@Old940 I love the old fords but sadly, ford does seem to be going downhill but I've had great luck with their trucks over the years. As for the mileage... I had a 69 mustang with a built 390 engine. It put out almost 500hp and got 8mpg. It was a fun car but not something I'd take on a road trip. Now I have a 70 mach 1 with the 351 cleveland and it is the sweet spot for me.
@@MilitaryTalkGuy Good old 390 CJ. Yes I have had great luck with Ford but the dealerships now think they got you and you will not dare go to another brand. I went to 4 dealerships in different towns and two states with that attitude so I got a GMC, could have gotten a Chevy for a little less but at 83 I wanted a GMC .
@@MilitaryTalkGuyAlso retired USAF.
Can't wait for this. I have a gen 1 and I'm always interested to see what will happen if I don't change my oil/keep an eye on coolant/replace the phasors/align with Mercury in retrograde/sacrifice the right goat.
It will still crap out.
@@rofin9541 Don't spoil it for me.
It'll wind up with Eric no matter what.
I love how he always says, "I'm not a mechanic". If you work on a fleet of BMW's just for fun, you are a mechanic.
No you are a Mechanic once you finish trade-school and your apprenticeship. Just because you change your own oil and air cleaner doesn't make a person a trades-person.
@@jimcockburn4652 Ehh, no. I've seen "techs" straight out of trade school that will never be mechanics. The one I'm thinking of got taught how to do brakes. GM, Ford and Chrysler. And could not figure out the rear drum brakes on an MGA. He'd never been taught to take one side apart and use the other side as a guide to reassemble. And the repeat. But, he knew how to do brakes......
Gen 1 EB in an Expedition EL 105k miles. Runs strong. 5w40 Lucas full synthetic and no more tapping at startup. That engine looks like it missed a few OCI. 1/64 weep hole in the IC for drainage. Took A Durango RT owner for a spin and he said "something this big should not move that fast". Love my EB. Water pump was done at 50k. No other maintenance done aside from oil and plugs. Check plug gap every 3k and use 91 religiously. Gapped at 0.027 and it helps with low speed stumble. Great tear down❤
Wow, never saw a broken crank. Thanks for taking the time to show me one.
I had an ‘86 S10 blazer. 2.8L. It had a broken crank for what turned out to be over a year. First sign was the oil pressure dropping when I stepped on the gas. I didn’t know what was wrong. Just kept driving it. I was on my way home from school one weekend when it started “knocking”. I started tearing it down and I could wiggle the balancer a lot. After I got it apart I found the crank broken right in front of the second main bearing. It ran just fine but there were pieces of steel in pan the size of rice grains. No tunes or turbos. Just pure GM 2.8 power.
Man I had an 88 s10 blazer. Those things were just built like tanks. I got tboned and flipped it over onto the roof. We rolled it back with some of the fire department and I drove it home from the tow yard the next morning (she leaked some gas when it was rolled over and the FD wouldnt let me drive it that night.)
As I told you before, in 2014, when I bought my Ford, I was told by a mechanic that I wanted a long-term dependable engine to buy a 5.0L. - and since then, I've been glad several times.
Especially since I know several people who do not have anything good to say about them.
17 and up 3.5 ecoboosts are pretty reliable besides cam phasers. 18-20 5.0s have terrible oil consumption. Both have their good and bad years.
Agreed 100% brother, I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it with 160,000 miles on it and still going strong and its a beast and it sounds like a beast with the Borla ATAK exhaust on it as well
If you want long term dependable you want a 4.9 I6. Half million mile engine.
Pre 2018 I would agree with you. I have one in my truck and it’s still going strong at 165000 miles. Post 2018 in normal ford fashion, once they worked the bugs out and had a reliable engine they decided to screw it up with direct injection, cylinder deactivation, and the plasma coated cylinders which leave it a crapshoot if you get an oil burner or not. If I were to buy a new one I’d probably go with the 2.7 at this point.
I have 190k on my 3.5 ecoboost and have seen videos of the engine going 500k
Little JB weld on that crank and she’s good as new.
ice cold AC NO LOW BALLERS!!!!!!
A little spray foam and she'll be right.
FnA Cotton!!! I'll take er !!!!
There is a global market for those motors,and 'd bet someone is rebuilding them for $$$$
It should be ok, that's what they used at the factory and look how long it lasted !!!
The only time I have seen a broken crank was in 1984 when someone drove into the shop with a V6 diesel in a Buick Century. Drove in, crank broken in half, running on 3 cylinders. Also never saw another v6 diesel again. What a racket that engine made.
Those cars didn't have diesels in them for long!
I don't know what language you use when you're not making videos, but I'm sure glad you keep them clean and enjoyable to watch. It's nice to see a young man with great attitude. God bless you 🙏🚓
I have two little ones. Sometimes they watch what I post and I don’t need any more reasons to correct what they say 😉
Amen. They do learn from us. Take care 🙏👍
@@I_Do_Carsgood dad! My
4 year old heard me in the garage saying Dammit! Now he walks around the housing saying awww dammit when things go wrong. They see and hear everything we do.!
I literally just watched this video to show my 4 year old what is happening under the hood of our expedition..... And to help him fall asleep at bedtime haha..... Thank you for this video
Alot easier to be civil when you're making YT vids, instead of trying to make flat rate time working for a shop boss, and a pile like this rolls into your shop bay.
Wow, I'll never probably not ever fix another engine again, so much has changed since my old days of fixing.
You could fix engine, you do understand engine's. You do have the no how's, and if I ever need an engine I be sure to buy one of yours. You have the know how... Great video..
I’ve always been impressed at the power the eco-boost line puts out.
When shopping for a new work truck last year, I did a lot of research on the Ecoboost and I learned that NA was the way to go in the F-series truck due to cam phaser and timing chain issues…
This engine had already had a set installed which doesn’t help my argument…
Thanks for another great tear down! 👍🏻
The harmonic balancer wobbles on the attempt to turn it over. This maybe a front end collision that broke the crank. The timing chain could have been broken when the engine stopped. Metal would've been circulated from starting at insurance auctions, transport, salvage yard. Ect. Not alot of heat in that bearing journal.
Wasn't there enough damage to the main bearing and the crank to suggest the engine ran for a bit? Plus metal pumped throughout the oil system. If the damage was secondary to a collision, I don't think there would have been time to pump swarf throughout the oiling system.
No way! That crank was flawed, and I bet it isn't the only one...
That’s a transverse engine. Just another crappy modern ford product in my opinion.
I love the way Eric takes off the wiring harness!
Likely the most valuable part of that engine, intact injector plugs are worth money as replacement parts when they break. This engine likely lots of idle, and really long oil change intervals, and the final straw likely wearing bearings from poor oil pressure, then the crank breaking from a sharp edge left in manufacture, or a flaw in the steel casting.
I have 266,000 miles on my 2020 Transit 350 3.5 twin turbo. No issues, runs great, weighs 7300 pounds and gets between 15-21 mph according to my loaded weight( up to 3,000 lb ) and headwinds across America. 10 speed auto.
I've got a second gen 3.5 Ecoboost, it currently has 34,000 miles. It got its THIRD engine at 31,000 miles. The last engine had a hole in #3 piston and valve, the dealer could not figure out the cause. Talk about a vehicle I have zero confidence in. I just thank God I bought the extended warranty, the bill they sent to Ford for this engine after my $100 deductible was $16,500.
Sell that thing ASAP 😂
They have been having a lot of problems with valves and valve springs failing lately. I wonder if they switched suppliers to cut costs or something. I've even new 5.0's with dropped valves.
I wouldn't buy a Ford these days
The pro mechanic that worked on it beat the crankpulley back on with a hammer like a hack and cracked the crankshaft... it was just a ticking time 💣... I'll bet money !!
Interesting looking chunk of scrap metal there!
I like my 2 1997 Isuzu Rodeos...one has 482,000 miles...valve guide seals started to leak...other has 145,000 miles....runs great.
Happy trails...👍
Dealer tech here: yeah unfortunatel this is becomign a decently common thing with these second gen 3.5 EBs. I've changed a couple in Raptors for this exact reason: the cranks breaking reight behind the first counter weight. Had a lot of these spin rod and main bearings as well. Even had one where the thrust bearing left the chat and the crank had way too much endplay.
Makes you wonder if there's some sort of runaway harmonic going on. Ford has to know about it, hopefully they learn and make improvements.
That is some very expensive and complex self destruct garbage. It must be a real unrewarding chore rebuilding one of these engines.
So more frequent oil changes would not be a factor then?
@@doityourdarnedself Not that I've seen. Every time I've seen this, the bottom end never looked neglected or like it was starved for oil. I still have the pictures from when I had to show Ford what broke lol
2012 Lariat Ecoboost 4wd, 285k miles. Synthetic oil. Watch fluids. Don't treat it like a race car. Service 4wd, tranny, axle, plugs and coil packs, IEW's , etc.
Truck has been amazing for me. If it makes it 1 more year it will be my sons first truck. No dents, no rust,interior perfect.
Way better than my first vehicle.
I watch these vids with my kids and the dog. The kids star out enthusiastic but soon get bored and move on but the dog stays and gets real interested, triggering on any unusual noise. When you got to the busted crank he stood up, walked to the TV and barked. Recon he was saying, I knew that was a busted crank. Smart mut.
Another great teardown video Eric. Thanks for my Saturday night entertainment. My brother (a Ford hater) would love what you said about making you use every tool in the toolbox. :)
And yet, I still await a Chrysler 2.7 liter V6 engine autopsy. I require the sludge maker on this channel!
i remember one of these where i had to pull the pan off and the valve covers and rods down the oil drains because they were sludged shut
They ARE the unheralded boat anchor of North America.
Unfortunately they have all expired
I really want to see the sohc 4.0l. I had an 07 pacifica with it, lot of fun. (When it wasnt being plagued with chrysler electrical issues)
I'm still waiting for some truly vintage stuff. Ford Flathead V8 would be amazing.
It was really a great experience watching you skillfully taking this engine apart. Great job!
I had a customer come in with a beetle that ran perfectly until you lifted up on the throttle then BAM BAM BAM.... Crank was broken just like this one. Crazy that it still ran well.
I had a 2012 Lincoln with the 3.5 twin turbo engine. 110,000 miles. It was flawless for the year I owned it. It had more power than I knew what to do with. Scary even. I never put the pedal to the floor, bc it felt crazy fast at half throttle.
Chicken
@@markwegner6100 right, chicken. I love when Russian bots add their useless commentary.
You wiggled that crank and I channeled Eric O, "There's your problem, lady." Catastrophe!
"Who takes a channel lock to the camshaft?!" [Takes chisel to a bolt 30 seconds later.] LOL. Always entertaining!
That’s exactly what I was thinking! He continues to talk trash about the last guy after his chisel socket.
I would've guessed vice grips, they lock and hold things quite well.
Well, sure, but to be fair, that's comparing good engine repair vs bad engine teardown. Not quite the same thing. Agreed that it's always entertaining though!
@@carver_g9708 Yeah, no criticism on my end. I just love the cheek!
Apples n oranges bro…
4 years into owning my 2020 F150 and the gen two 3.5 has been flawless, with the exception of a crush washer leaking coolant on one of the turbos. Great fuel economy, stupid torque, not really that hard to work on. I added a Ford Performance catch can to try and keep the intake tract a bit cleaner, would've loved to see how the intake valves looked on this engine. I bought my truck with the intention to own it as long as possible so I'm hopeful it won't need an engine replacement for a good long while, not sure if I'll be able to say the same about the 10R, but time will tell. At the very least I know I won't have to worry about the cab and bed rusting out from all of the salty midwest winters we have :)
The gen three 3.5 is pretty similar to the gen two, I think both are considerably better than the gen one in many regards (better valvetrain design, beefier timing components, oil squirters, port injection, better rod and piston). The gen three gets a bit more complex because Ford added an EGR system including an EGR cooler to the gen three (similar to the 2.7) which I'm willing to bet will be a problem point once those trucks start getting into higher mileages. Midway through production (par for the course with Ford) they also changed the spark plugs on the gen three to an indexed plug that uses a flat washer seat instead of a tapered seat which I'm sure will lead to confusion in coming years.
When I was a mechanic I used to keep a tensioner pulled, so that I could stand an oil filter up while I filled it up. Worked well for large diesel filters.
Owning a '19 F150 with a 3.5 makes this an appropriate video for me. As a guy who worked years as a mechanic before they became rolling computers makes me happy that I no longer work on these vehicles. I just had the cam phasers changed under warranty, would never want to tackle that job, especially since the mechanic had to do it twice as one of the new Ford phasers was bad. As to maintenance, I purchased the truck used but my dealer had all the service records for my use. That truck had been serviced every 3-4000 miles since new and appeared to have been babied since it was spotless even before the dealer did his pre delivery cleanup. I have added a catch can and it does pick up some minimal blow by.
The flats on the cams are for a timing tool that holds both cams in place for timing services
Here we go I got ( beer + peanuts + chips + candy + comfortable chair + big TV + my Dog ) = a great time watching I do cars.
Here we go I got ( beer + peanuts + chips + candy and we are on the road again, hey what is wrong with the engine ? Making a funny noise, hope we get home ok ! Don't stop now.
"This guide is.. unbroken." *SMACK*
Spat out my drink. Your character and cameraworthiness makes these so fun.
It's all fun andd games until you can't get a hold of replacement guides for your vehicle. :(
He does this in every video
My 2019 Raptor suffered a crankshaft failure on June 13, 2024. The truck is stock. Never been jumped, hooned, boosted, or even used to tow anything more than maybe 3,000lbs. Seeing this video really makes me wonder about these engines.
Wow that front panel is Hugh, I was surprised how you can see everything from oil sump chains and other stuff wow , I didn’t expect that!
As an Ecoboost 3.5L owner in a F150 I can say that if you change your oil often and keep up on all of the required maintenance these engines are long lived. Mine has 157K on it and runs like new. However they do not tolerate neglectful owners.
Agreed. I love mine. I had the notorious oil leak from the vacuum pump but other than that it's been great. Even that I did myself for 150 bucks. Good oil every 5k or less. Oil is cheap. Engines are not.
Especially if the owner drives a lot of short trips. Really any engine with direct injection should either avoid short trips or change their oil way more often. Gasoline DI= diesel-like soot and high levels of unburned fuel in the engine oil.
@karlschauff7989 I agree. I do not subscribe to the manufacturer recommended oil changes. DI leads to fuel dilution and turbos cook the oil. 5k oil changes unless I'm towing alot and then I do 3k.
Just got mine back from dealer for cam phaser rattle at 150k. 2nd owner. I assume job was done before as old ones don't last that long in mileage. I made sure dealer installed the new ones along with chains, guides, etc while that deep into it. During first oil change, I couldn't believe truck had a plastic oil pan... yeah thats getting the "upgrade" to the alumn one piece soon.
Wow what a surprise. Did not expect a two piece crank.
Amazing to me that you can buy vehicle in the everyday automotive marketplace with such a complex engine in it. When you think about 1955-1980 V8s from GM and Ford and how serviceable and relatively easy they were to remove and rebuild and compare them to the many modern day engines and propulsion systems being marketed and sold as everyday transportation, it really boggles my old mind. This is an engine that would have been would have been an exotic racing engine in the late 1960s or 1970s. Something that you might find in some exotic vehicle, not in an everyday driver. And kudos to our automotive technicians and mechanics who have bravely stayed in the business and done the homework necessary to work on, service and repair these complex systems. I have a 2019 Ford F150 4X4 with the 5.0 L in it and a 10 speed automatic. Driving it is amazing. So much power and so comfortable. I also have a 1993 F150 2X4 with a 4.9L and a five speed manual. Love driving both of them for different reasons. The difference between the two vehicles for comfort is simply light years. And each of them is simply universes away from the beloved 1952 Ford F1 from my high school days. We are living in an amazing time when it comes to automotive technology advancements.
The port fi 302 was simple as a hammer, made tons of power, and ran forever. This new stuff makes a few % better economy at double the cost of manufacture and repair. All thanks to a self perpetuating bureaucracy.
Blame the ever-tightening EPA mileage policies.
Those rings! I've been reducing the oil change intervals on my 2.7L F-150 more & more. I'm currently down to 4k mile oil changes. After seeing this, it just became 3500!
Any modern engine needs 3k-4k oil change intervals no matter what the manufacturer says. Between the tiny clearances, the small pathways in the VVT solenoids, etc. it is a must. Throw in direct injection and/or turbos, and it's downright required. I guarantee most of these failures would go away if people would just change their oil.
And put some shell v-power in that baby
It spun the front bearing first, and the rest followed. Great points on secondary rings on the engine's condition before failure. The oil filter tells the story here.
ERIC: You had made a comment about the intake port angle being too steep to see the intake valves.
Might I suggest a "probe camera" for you. You know the one, carried by any auto store, looks like proctology equipment. Just video the screen of that puppy. Valves, pistons (or lack there of) with the head on, up the nose... the possibilities are endless.
Keep up the awesome job. Cheers man.
Bought a cheap open box special at Horrorable Fate. Definitely paid for itself quickly in saved time.
@@davidpawson7393 Ha! Horrible Fate. Never heard that one before. I go with Haggard Fart or Frazzled Heart.
Yeah I was going to mention or recommend a Borescope or something similar, aircraft mechanics and nondestructive inspections use them all the time. It would make for a cool video!
This engine looks like it did not have regular oil changes, the massive carbon build up on the pistons and the second compression ring that cemented itself to the piston implies that this was a hard working engine that just did not get a lot of regular attention. I agree, the crankshaft had a flaw....a big flaw to be sure.
8/10 speed transmissions + EGR + shit fuel quality and short drive cycles will cause that as well.
Usually stuck/carboned 2nd ring indicates poor quality top ring seal. More than likely it was babied too much at break in. I drove mine fairly hard without too much rpm from new like you would break in a fresh rebuild and it doesn't use a drop of oil between 5k mile oil changes. It also gets the piss driven out of it daily. Most engines maintain much better ring seal with harder use, especially now with the thinner low tension rings. The combustion pressure helps push the top ring into the cylinder wall harder, which is super important when it is new and the cylinder still has some roughness to it from honing.
I'd say the oil changes were not that bad. No sludge to speak of and no signs of oil starvation anywhere. I'm not saying that they might not have been great, but they were not bad.
This was a crank problem, and unless someone points out a major front impact on the chassis, I'd go with the casting flaw diagnosis. I'd also look closely at the fillets where the journals were machined. Yeah, I'd look closely at the crank pulley, and perhaps look at the front components of the engine for signs of impact damage, but only to rule out impact.
I would have told you I love my 2019 3.5 ecoboost until the #4 cylinder blew at 100k. I had the engine replaced and the transmission went out 75 miles later! $25,000 later I wish I'd just driven off in the river. I'll never own another.
Almost any Honda or Toyota. My bonehead friend spent thousands on a new Equinox engine only to likely have to replace it again.
If you had an engine replaced and then the trans blew out 75 miles later, that is not a coincidence, they likely did not store it properly or did not reassemble the engine to the trans properly, something had to be connected
I don't work on cars for a living, but I love your videos, the bits of humor you throw in, and have learned a ton from watching them. Thanks, and keep them coming!
Bummer! I have a 2019 3.5 Eco with 78K miles. So far so good. I'm also a freak about all maintenance, particularly oil changes. Full synthetic every 5K or before. Hope nothing like this doesn't happen to mine. Now I'll be thinking about this all the time!🤨
Secondary crankshaft.... love it.
The one channel I will NEVER EVER skip the ads on.
Will he get more money if we watch them all the way thru?
What ads? Oh right. I use Ublock origin.
@@dertmatyui as far as my 30 seconds of research went, yes, if the ad is skippable after 5 seconds, a lot of companies will only pay if you interact with the ad, or watch 30 seconds. This is total laymen, google-fu here. So please don’t take what I am saying as gospel. It can’t hurt?
@@TiborRoussou and are therefore robbing all of your favorite creators of their hard work and time.
@@GoneAsGoneCanBe If I wanted to watch commercials, I'd go back to watching television; the reason I started my RUclips was too many commercials. Twelve years now I've been using ad blockers on my account. Should I feel bad?
During my working life I only ever encountered 2 broken crankshafts. Number one was a Leyland diesel bus engine which lay on its side under the vehicle, it probably had done a million and a half miles for the Brisbane City Council, Queensland Australia. Bought by my employer very well used, no known reason for it to break. Number two was a Mazda 3500 diesel bus owned by the school I worked at in the 80s and 90s again outer Brisbane. It was found to have a loose pulley Harmonic balancer, I tightened it up but it worked loose again, so I fitted a new pulley but the damage had already been done, soon after the driver phoned to say that her bus was making a bad noise. I having had experience with a Toyota diesel making a bad noise with a clogged injector, went out and checked it out, loosened off the injectors one at a time, the noise stropped as soon as I loosened number one. Swapped number one injector to another cylinder but the noise stayed with number one, on further examining I found the front pulley to be out about 3mm. I was able to fit a new crankshaft without removing the engine from the chassis. Ted from down under.
Good job on the tear down, , a ver complex engine compared to the old 283 and 350 Chevys I used to work on. All I can say is run clean fuel, never hot dog em and always keep the oil changed regularly with good filters etc. I could see dollar bills flying as you tore this puppy down. then the whole bank flew by with the crank.
243k on my 1st gen 3.5 ecoboost. Original timing chain and guides, turbos. Waterpump changed at 190k , a couple cop rebuilds. Its been tuned since new also
While watching you tear down this engine a random thought ran through my mind.
For some reason I would like to see you make a Halloween episode. Where you systematically tear down and creatively destroy every part as you go. Using such proper tools as saws , grinders, hammers, hydraulic press and whatever else seems fun. Just treat everything like a water pump.
Put on a monster costume and have fun with it. While laughing maniacally. Just a thought. Hmmmm.
I approve this message!
10:07 I like when the rattle gun sounds like a laser pistol!
-This is one of the methods I used as an auto mechanic student 70 to 73 ! VERY useful method ! Thank you very much !
One thing I'm noticing is GDI engines carbon up piston ring grooves causing the rings to stick and consume oil. I use about a coffee cup of transmission fluid in my sons car ( 1.6 Hyundai which used a quart and a half of oil every 3k mi) and ran it a week then changed the oil with some good oil. It doesn't use any oil now. Old school remedy for stuck rings.
You should think about looking at a bore scope that you connect to a camera or maybe a direct video output. For the tight spots.
Heat and pressure destroy engines. Turbos create heat and pressure.
Oh gee, we changed the oil every 30,000 miles, give or take.
Ohhh yeah
Perhaps 130, 000
Oil change? DON"T TRY TO UPSELL ME!
You changed the oil ???
Wow, how do you crack the balancers on the crankshaft? And more impressively, how do you not have the pistons turn into a family meal of piston mcnuggets?
The machining of the "pork chops" of the crank can be stress risers for a break point. Most cranks have that, but crank failures are rare. Aggressive programmer tunes can make for stress that breaks things, especially high boost at low revs.
Thanks for explaining the motor's breakdown. I know nothing about car engines, but I learned a ton from this video. Thank you again.
WAY back, I had a 283 in my old chevy, that I pulled out and rebuilt. It was a great experience, learning how everything comes apart, gets some new parts, some rebuilt, goes back together, and fires up again! Since that day, I've done most all of my own repairs and maintenance, and most often will check a RUclips video first, to have a clear grasp of things to watch for in doing a good job. I've gain a lot of tools over the years as well, so I feel fortunate now, having the ability and confidence to take on just about any job after seeing how it's done on RUclips. There's a few more tools that come make life easier, but I'm getting older now, and think it's time to hold up on buying more tools for the most part, and jobs 'under' the vehicle, I may be better off paying someone else. lol. I say this, after doing my oil change and fuel filters as well as a full lube job on my diesel pusher motorhome!
funny, I had a 1948 plymouth straight 6 that I rebuilt, my father made me sell to my brother a few monthes later my brother heard this knocking ... He said I did not tighten the flywheel,
should have taped it when I dropped the pan ... Crank broke between number 4 and 5 ... I found it amazing it still ran !
I've never owned a ford past the warranty.
Getting dealers to make warranty repairs is nearly impossible.
"we'll only perform the work if you bought it here"
Mother ford stated there franchises and have no control on denying warranty repairs.
Ford can blow goats.
At least the oil pump was not using a wet belt
Dude how tall are you ??????????????
Our Ecoboost just blew. This was helpful to see what could go wrong. This was crazy.
Nice job.
Some time ago I was part of a team commission a solis shaft small gas tubine driving a generator. The turbine rotor spun at about 13000 rpm with the turbine rotor shaft directly coupled to a planetary gear box that spun the generator at 1800 rpm. The turbine fuel control system used a proportional, integral, derivative (PID) strategy to maintain a consistent generator rpm. The turbine/generator was running at less than half load when a large chiller started doubling the load immediately. The PID control system was not completely tuned and it drove the "throttle" fully open in response to the load. The system rpm overshot and the "throttle" completely closed. The system rpm then undershot which drove the throttle back to full open. I was not present at the time and the operators allowed this on-off cycle to continue for about 15 minutes at which point the engine control system initiated a hot shut down the operation due to high vibration. The turbine was restarted after cool down and it ran until the vibration monitors readings went off the chart and shut it down again. A tear down of the turbine revealed that the turbine shaft broke. It was not a straight shear as if a saw cut through it but rather a ball and socket type break. Looking at the break configuration revealed why the turbine couls still start and turn the generator. The break of the crank shaft in your video reminded me of thev break i just described. Turbos can add a lot of combustion pressures in the cylinders which increases the forces transmitted to the crankshaft. Any imperfections in the molecular structure within the crankshaft casting could wth the high pressures prent due to the turbos could have led to the failure.
Got a Gen 1 it is still going strong with 119,000 miles on it. Any engine will fail if it is not properly serviced.
I was a Porsche tech for 10 years before opening my own shop. I loved doing engine repairs and all of the sophistication they had. I attended all of the Porsche tech schools offered. Disassembly and investigation of what went wrong intrigued me. The Porche 930 Turbo and the 928 engines were among the most interesting to me. I loved it after reassembly and installation turning the key and hearing it "breathe fire". Your verbal thoughts all came back to mind as you were doing this. Nice that you had electric power tools whereas I had to use air with that pesky air hose impeding my movements. It's pretty wild to see that domestic engines are so much more refined these days. They've come a long way. Thanks for this...
Great vid and tutorial on these newer engines! Im old school and had no idea how these were configured. Thanks for the Great presentation!
I wanted to see this engine broken down for a while and I have to say, im very impressed with its build!
Unlike the 2.7l I think, this one doesn't have too many points of failure, change your oil every 5k miles, add good fuel and plugs and I bet it will go the full mile to 300k or more all day
Looked like the casting had hot tear and gas pockets. They have fought that for years.
What a great video. I own this engine and am about to change out my cam phasers (3rd set) this visit was helpful.
The gen 2 3.5 is a solid engine. First, the 3.5 EB out of a stock F150 was a Le Mans engine 20 years ago, save for the forged steel rods vs aluminum in the racing application (where longevity means 24 hours). A tuned version of the 3.5 STILL IS a Le Mans engine. It is an absolute monster, and the few weak points are gone since 2021 (phasers finally fixed, chain stretch, intake ports, turbo cooling, et c). It has oil and water cooled turbos. It has a forged 4340 crank and forged con rods. It has monstrous 6 bolt main bearings. The only major remaining shortcomings are the exhaust manifolds that would be at home on a model T and Ford moving back to EGR. It is a racecar engine, and if you treat it like a beater Toyota, you will kill it, exactly like the yahoos who destroyed the truck above. Tolerance of abuse is only a virtue for the foolish and irresponsible; such people are better served with the cheapest vehicles that they are willing to tolerate.
Great videos. You make me laugh with your side comments - not sNide comments. You have a great sense of humor. Thanks - John
If you check the P.O. If there was one, for the original complaint, I would bet it had shifting problems. These had a tech bulletin about the A frame failure in the trans that let’s the wire harness short the number 1 shift solenoid. When this happens the trans will shift into 1st gear no matter what the speed is. If it happens at highway speeds it will over wind the engine to extremely high rpm’s. That could do this damage.
Nice tear down video and I enjoyed your humorous remarks. " The rear crank seems to be in good shape". As you know, when a front main bearing goes out ( maybe due to the same reason all the secondary piston rings were stuck) it would loose some of it's transverse load capability at this forward location supporting the crank. This would allow the forward end of the crank to flex out of it's axial location very slightly. That would induce bending concentration into the crank at the counterweight location, since this is a relatively softer location for the crank bending load path before it's next bearing support if there was abnormal bending introduced that it was not designed to react. As you mentioned, this would set up harmonic vibration at certain rpms, eventually causing stress fatigue cracking after many cycles of rpms at any weak point or flaw in the crank as you pointed out. Under normal wear use, these very small "flaws" would not be an issue. The real issue to me is what caused all the seized oil rings and the front main bearing damage? I have one of these engines. a 21, gen 3. I only use fomoco oil and filters and syn blend oil with 2500m changes, and 100k ext warranty.
The camshaft flat spots are for special tools to hold the cams in place while changing and aligning the timing chain and phasers so they can't be used to to rotate cams once the locking tool is in place
Thank you for this information video very interesting!
No matter what manufacture of engine…good fuel - good oil / filter - good maintenance, an engine should last, most of the time
broken crank shaft has happened to a few Raptors i know of . I run 5w50 motul 8100 oil in mine with new warranty engine after my original engine spun rod bearing at 16k miles