This is the type of person that leaves bad reviews about how horrible and unreliable his truck was, and complains to everyone about how his truck was a piece of shit that died at only 100k miles while stopped at a red light.
This engine died because of poo maintenance but fords suck nothing but problems. I never owned a Ford that didn’t suck. And idk anyone who had a Ford that didn’t have problems. Buy gm
Using logic that only a nitwit could possibly utter in public -- buy GM! On the basis of what? Absolutely bugger all. Never owned a Ford that didn't suck? So why buy a second one then? That's what you're implying. Presumably the first was awful, but you bought again. Not getting at you personally, because, good lord, there are millions of people who get on a forum and vent about some brand or other. Because they got a "bad one". Jeez, if I had a buck for all the whiners (on any brand, take your pick) who got on forums, Boobtoob, over at coffeeshop, etc and complained about some brand as if their tirade was the only truth, hell, I'd be richer than Elon Musk. I've never owned one, but i'd say Buy Toyota! Buy GM? It has never once occurred to me that it would be a good idea, Same with Ford and Chrysler, VW, Mercedes, BMW, Nissan, Hyundai, Kia, Tesla -- doesn't leave much. I'm backed into a corner with Mazda at the moment -- five years on a 2019, no problems except for a criminal stealership service dept. They have managed to competely ruin a good product experience. By "recommending" BS services on a car with oil changes at less than 2K miles -- I don't drive much any more. It's like talking to a complete idiot no matter who the srvice writer is at the desk, and the sevice manager? Well, she should either be on meds at a loony bin or four years into a 30 year sentence for committing fraud on the general public. Likely dozens of times per day. Much more likely your bad experience with Ford was due to incompetence at dealer level when they were unable to solve a problem, but claimed they did. Just saying.
Same goes with bmws for me, some people buy them with a thought that they won't need much maintenance, yet they complain about these cars being bad because of issues that arrises. I'm not gonna talk about N54/N55/N63 engine equipped ones, these are expensive to maintain and these are really troublesome (could be reliable, but you'd go broke trying to keep it that way)
@@matthewbradley8226ZERO problems with my 2019 F150 with 2.7 twin turbo. It’s been more reliable than my Toyotas. 5 years old, 52,000 miles, zero so far
if you carfax my cars you won't see oil changes.. you have to look at the notebook I keep in the glove box.... I don't trust any mechanic to change my oil... if somebody is going to forget to fill the engine it is going to be me
I had $9300 in rear end damage fixed on my last car about 10 years ago. It was done by a dealer's body shop. The Carfax just listed the date, mileage, and "vehicle serviced." Can't trust Carfax!
Unfortunately if there is ever a warranty claim the manufacturer will try to deny do to lack of maintenance. Simply because you chose not to pay someone else to do your oil changes. I had a 4 cylinder Dodge Stratus that lasted 236000 miles because Idid my own oil changes until the tow truck (that I called to tow it after the og a/c compressor locked up on me) put a hole in oil pan. Then claimed that it was preexisting the cost of a new pan and new compressor far out weighed the value of the car even if I put them on myself.
My dealership doesn't care about who does the oil changes. Just as long as you can prove it was done. A log book (they used to have a section in the paper owners manual) and receipts will work just fine. If the manufacturer won't honor it... buy a different vehicle.
@craigquann By law (in the US anyway) the manufacturer is required to honor a log book and/or receipts for purchases of oil & filters or oil changes done elsewhere for warranty purposes.
That rear crank seal retainer plate showed the TRUE extent of the sludge & varnish that was accumulated in that poor engine over its brief lifespan. I'd be ashamed of myself, if that were my engine. Kinda like having to go to the emergency room with dirty underwear on.
I have the perfect solution for the last problem in your statement there. I've been doing it since I was 18 and spent a couple of months in the woods with the park service. Just don't wear skivvies. Then you don't have to worry about them being dirty when you get to the hospital and if you wipe your ass your pants won't be t dirty either
I mean shoot bro at least if you crap your drawers in the emergency room theres probably an emergency youre dealing with. This engine couldve lasted to 150k miles if they didnt neglect the oil changes. Built ford tough of course right
Worked drill floor oilfield . . most fun you can have releasing that locked up oil aka not fossil remains of forests . . that burnt is actually re greening the globe . . debate me you cows
A family friend is TERRIBLE at car maintenance. She would go years between oil changes. In fairness, she has a wheelchair bound husband that is 100% permanently disabled, and 2 kids (teens at the time). She's got a lot going on. Oil changes just isn't something you can ignore. I bought her all the equipment (tools, drain pan, oil, filter, etc.) and changed the oil for her, teaching her teen boy how to do it. I also purchased enough oil and a filter for the next oil change. She made dinner for us that evening at her house. All day long, and all throughout dinner, I kept quizzing the boy "what mileage is the next oil change due?" so he'd remember. A year later I came back, and saw the oil and filter sitting in the corner of the garage. I was done with them. If they won't even do basic work (when they HAD the supplies) to take even a minor amount of care of their car, then they don't even deserve to have a car.
These Ford 2.3 Ecoboosts are really good engines in the rangers. Barely see issues with them and only see issues with them if you don't do oil changes. Puts out great HP and Torque for that little truck. Good towing capacity too.
I have the explorer with the 2.3 and really like the drivetrain. I thought it would be underpowered but the engine really punches above its size. The 10 speed is usually good but can randomly be clunky
Have a 22 Ranger and love the 2.3 EcoBoost. Full synthetic every 5k miles. I am a bit unnerved how black the oil gets in a relatively short period of time. 🤷
I have a family member who is a cheap Charlie when it comes to vehicle maintenance. The manufacturer stated "10,000 mile oil changes" - they followed it, and then some. I think about 12k-ish before they changed it. Ditto for tires. Even though the car was driven below average miles, tires didn't get changed for nearly 10 years because "they still had good tread." People like that are penny wise and pound foolish.
I would say it was never changed. Like... ever. You'd be surprised how many people think changing the oil is just a "'big oil' conspiracy to sell more oil". That's not "poor maintenance intervals, that's NO maintenance intervals lol
@@cantwealljustgetalong2 Agreed. 10K OCI is absolutely ridiculous. I have a 2023 Ram that calls for 10K OCI. I did the first "break in" OC at 1K mi., second at 5K and then 5K thereafter for the life of the vehicle. Oil is cheap, $60K trucks are not.
@MiawMaineCoons yeah complete insanity. 5 quart jugs of mobil 1 full synthetic are 23 dollars at walmart and oem filters are available on rock auto for 5 bucks a filter if you buy a case. its literally so cheap to change oil every 3 or 4 thousand miles.
@CNCMatrix lol yeah i work at a shop and we have lots of customers that follow the manufacturers intervals of 10K miles....the oil that comes out of the pans is a sludgy pitch black mess, and when we put fresh oil and a filter on and check the oil level the fresh oil is still black because the engines are so dirty and contaminated inside
Great video as usual. Quite a few years ago, I had a Ford Ranger with a 2.3L. If was in the 1980s and the engine was the iron block 2.3 similar to the Pinto engine. It went 300,000 miles. I changed the oil every 5000 miles. I now have a Nissan Frontier with the 2.5L engine. It is running fine at over 100,000 miles. Again, I have the oil changed every 5000 miles just as Nissan recommends. As is in the video mentioned, oil is cheaper than engines.
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 Ford did turbo the 2.3 lima, in the Mustang SVO/ Merkur XR4Ti, Thunderbird Turbocoupe (83-88) and Cougar XR7 (83-86) i think.
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 I think Ford built a turbocharged Mustang with one of these in the 1980s. I do not remember how well it worked. My truck was not turbocharged and still had a carburetor.
@@Jody-kt9ev I had an '88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe with the turbo 2.3 5 speed, car ran flawlessly for 189,000 miles until I traded it for a '95 T-Bird SC..Still had the original turbo, and didn't burn a drop of oil between 3,000 mile oil changes. Those were great engines.
I work from home, so my Civic doesn't go far. Bought it in 22 with 197 KM. Today it has 2016 KM, and it has an oil change every 5 K. Even when the oil is just a touch brown, if it has a burnt smell in any way shape or form it is out of there. I have seen too many engines on the channel not cared for, and Eric will never get mine. I am very aware that my engine need proper warm up time because it will drive 8 K every other day. THX Eric for all the great work.
There is such thing as too much. On the other side, some say the factory intervals are too far apart, especially for performance / work stuff. Especially when actually driven.
I had my oil changed yesterday. I use good quality oil and change every 3K. 215K on the car and it runs great. I asked to see the oil filter. I looked in the folds and it was clean as a whistle. No silver flecks, no sludge, nothing. I hope to see 300K on this vehicle.
Ive caught 3 different shops one was even a dealer, that dont actually change the oil. They just wipe the filter off and top it up so the stick reads full. So you cant always blame the car owner for extended oil changes etc. Thanks for the video.
This. I remember a few shops getting caught in one of them news investigations flatout not doing the work, or purposefully creating other issues to force a return visit 💸💸💸 No way that was the end of such practices. Then you have the inept techs that can't even ask for help and mess things up.
Dealers tend to attract dishonest mechanics and service managers. Bet their pay structure encourages this, it happens too often. You know what they say, 10 bad apples give the remaining 90 a bad name.
Always ask for the old parts. Its a reverse core charge. The only way you shouldn't be able to get them back is if warranty is covering the work. Otherwise they belong to you.
I'll wager someone put engine flush in there and drove the car. The instructions on that stuff say to not drive the car. The rod bearing damage would indicate this is why the bearing did what they did. Someone paid much money for that. Thanks for another great video sir!
The shop probably put the flush in and gave the keys back to the customer... 4.8 star shop. There's no way this customer ever found the oil fill or drain plug or dipstick. Then the 4.8 star shop probably got to get paid to do an engine replacement.
2.3 ecoboost has been out for 10 years and has been a reliable engine. Valvoline has two 2.3 running non stop in explorers to test the differences between full synthetic and blend. Both engines have over 400k. The only issues they had was a front crank seal. Test is easy to find on youtube.
I'm excited to see this tear-down, because as far as I can tell this is the same engine used in my 2017 S550 Mustang with 2.3L i4 EcoBoost engine... The only difference, as far as ChatGPT will tell me, is that the one you did the teardown on has a different tuning package and slightly beefier pistons and rods for towing and such... Could be completely wrong... I'm not a tech.. I vowed to never return to my Ford Service Center after I caught them doing numerous fucked up things.. 1) Covering dash cams before starting work, with an oily rag no less.. 2) Failed to slot in tabs on an access panel after changing a battery. They literally didn't slot in the tabs and just screwed it back into place, bending all the tabs upwards. 3) Failed to use the oil and filter I supplied for them (i buy the good shit) and they just shrugged off my notes and used whatever crap they had in the back. 4) The service guys love to talk down to you on the phone and cut you off and talk over you mid-sentence when you're trying to give them the information they asked for. Ford could live up to their great founders name, if they wanted to, and make quality cars and trucks, but they're seemingly okay with mediocrity and ridicule.
@@randyhall2135 I remember years ago with Eric The Car Guy doing an engine flush only to find out it only made it worse, and highly recommends avoiding that at all costs
Of course the owner neglected the engine - *but nobody deserves to have a chain tensioner and 2 guides on the material bill and taking the engine out of the car and replacing these 3 parts on the labour bill when it's actually not done!* 😵💫
Its always been like that. There was never a time when it wasn't. My grandfather talked about the things they did in the 1950s that was outrageous, that involved sawdust😂
The OCI for this engine is "roughly 7500-10000 miles" as indicated by the owners manual. I tend to do mine "before 7500 miles" usually between 6000 and 7500. I haven't seen inside my engine, but at 77K miles it still runs and sounds great.
Somebody changed a few parts, like the turbo, timing chain, variable timing solenoids, cam gears and oil, after a flush, but skipped a few also. Shame it wasn't serviced better during it's life.
"I jumped on it because it was a stick" that's what she said.......I couldn't resist. great video I always enjoy these, also I would say the lack of on time oil changes and then an engine flush is what did that one in. engine flushes are a bad idea when you see that much sludge, the engines best chance is good quality engine oil changed early with maybe a bit of gentle cleaning additive that works slowly with the oil over time.
I do oil changes for a living and let me tell you the average oil change on every car that comes in is between eight and 12,000 miles between oil changes
I dated a woman that had a 1975 ford Granada with a 351W That had almost NO maintenance on it. Once I put valve cover gaskets on it, the sludge was even with the tops of the rocker arms. The car had 252,000 on it when I did that valve cover gasket job. I couldn't believe it had not blown up already. She actually drove the car to 301,000. It still ran, but the front suspension was so bad that you couldn't keep it on the road. I would say that there was no reason to bother rebuilding that engine after she quit driving that car..
I bought a pretty cool looking 78 Magnum w/400 4bbl from a "friend" in the mid to late 80's. When I went to change a leaky left valve cover gasket, the dry-looking sludge was covering the rockers, rocker shaft, and was starting to take the shape of the inside of the valve cover, kinda like a jello mold. I removed the intake manifold and breastplate gasket, and I found a solid, giant "pancake" of ashy-dry sludge the size & shape of the lifter valley. It was crazy.
Thanks for another great teardown, Eric - your commentery and working style never fail to entertain me ... I know it's a tough challenge to get these engines in the US, but there are two engines I'd really like to see on your channel: a Volkswagen W8 or W12 and the notorious V10 TDI :-) And no - I'm not a fan of them, but I think they would be a nice addition ;-) Have a great week and greetings from good 'ol Germany
After watching your channel for some time.......I change the oil in our vehicles when there's nothing to watch on tv (really often). Thanks for your efforts.
2.3 EB's are very stout and reliable. I have had 2 over the years. a 2015 Mustang Ecoboost Premium and now a 2023 Bronco. Both have /had some modifications, with absolutely zero issues. Oil changed at 5,000 miles every time though. maintenance is the key.
As far as maintenance history, lots of shops don't report to any services, neither do any owners who diy. My truck gets oil every 5k, trans every 30k, diffs and transfer at 60k. The only things that would show on a report is the "free" first couple of oil changes that gm included with the purchase
I uprgraded the turbo on my 2019 ranger 2.3. Tuned it and a banks pedal monster. Never had an issue before then. Dont have any issues now either. This was an awesome video
I own a line-mate of this engine with only 49k on it. It was a lease turn-in and only had 32k on it after 3 years when I bought it. I've only put 17k on it after 3 years (I live really close to work) and have changed the oil 3 times, with the fourth due here in a month. I pray that the inside of my engine looks way better than this! At least now I know what the inside of my engine looks like. Thanks Eric!
Bought a 01 or 02 neon a long time ago that was very poorly maintained. The oil was like sludge. I drained the oil from the engine hot. Then ran about a gallon of kerosene into the valve cover. Started it back up for maybe 10 or 15 seconds. Drained it, and got a ton of black sludge. I left it drip for a long long time, engine still very warm. Then I refilled with oil, and ran it normal for a couple weeks and changed the oil again. I probably wouldn't do it again, but I was to broke to deal with it another way...but that engine ran for another decade just fine after that until I got rid of the car. Would I recommend that, never, but in this case it worked out
Indeed, these newer engines with tighter tolerances and VVT require the utmost attention to replacing the oil at regular intervals. I believe much less forgiving than older pushrod engines.
There was a youtuber who got a brand-new maverick and drove it over 100k miles in a year with no oil change. He was too busy youtubing to get any maintenance done on it.
i borrowed a family friends ford escape for a week when my car was in the shop, i drove it about 2600 miles in that week so i wanted to be nice and change the oil before i gave the vehicle back. when i went to go drain the oil the pan was near empty like less than a quart came out, long story short the car had 46,000 miles on it and never had a single oil change since it was bought new. crazy part is it drove perfectly with almost no oil in it. im sure it didnt last past 80 or 90 thousand miles though lol
Eric, I have a suggestion. Tear down Honda GCV160 and GM LIH engine side-by-side. Both have wet timing belts, Honda is an old lawn mower engine, LIH might as well be in a ride-on lawn mower. I understand these might be hard to come by, but with how many Chevy Traxs' are on the road there is a chance at some point in the future.
I own a 2.3L Ford Ranger. If you were wondering about the oil change intervals, the manual says ever 5,000 or 7,000 or 9,000 mi depending on the driving conditions.
@@jonathansmith7306 The distance interval isn't the issue as much as the type of driving. Short distance driving is absolutely horrible on engines because the moisture is rarely evaporated completely contributing to high sludge build up. Synthetic oil is designed to accommodate the higher engine temperatures of the newer engines. I do 7,500 mile oil changes on my motorcycle (currently at 110,000 miles) and road vehicles because a one way trip is between 54 and 135 mile, with a couple of hours of stop and go and in and outs for shoping. However, all of the town rigs get 3,500 mile changes with Shell Rotella T4 to prevent sludge build up and it works fantastic. I had a long haul Kenworth T600 that got interval changes 7,500 and 10,000 miles with the Rotella T4 because it was a coast to coast rig and was gone for three weeks at a time. The engine had an in-frame roll-in freshen up at 586,000 miles and a full out of frame rebuild at 1.7 million miles. It all depends upon how the vehicle is used and who is driving it.
Bought my wife a 2019 eco sport 48k miles..all service done by the dealership..it cost yea. Recall killed it with the oil pump belt and tensioner. Finally Ford decided to replace the motor with 87k on it since catastrophic oil failure. I’m going back to 70’s vehicles. Edit. Oil changes are regular in my wife’s car..and my 06 Saturn.
Hey! I’d love to see a 24 Tacoma 4 cylinder turbo engine teardown. Supposedly they are junk and don’t last long. I’m sure there’s a large pile somewhere based on all the comments I see on RUclips. Enjoy watching the channel. 🎉
-Folks, If I were Mary Barra or any other auto company CEO the very first thing I would order is that BLACK PLASTIC VALVE COVERS be discontinued. We would go back to cast aluminum stuff immediately! And the same for oil pans. If we have to stamp them from cheap steel then so be it; NO MORE BLACK PLASTIC!
But black (or coloured) plastic valve covers are cheap and light? 🙂The design life of the car/truck is only 7 years/100,000miles after all. Plus if they warp like on GM engines -- spare parts sales! I prefer aluminium myself, engine bays full of plastic are really ugly -- Ecoboost inline-fours are some of the ugliest engines. The Ford Australia Barra inline-six had plastic valve covers unlike the previous Intech inline-six, they were coloured in different colour plastic: Red for Turbo, Green for LPG, Black for standard IIRC. It's not great, but it is what it is. Same for the GM Vortec 4200, some had aluminium valve covers, some had plastic valve covers.
I'm not a fan after working on my 2007 Chrysler 300C with the 5.7 Hemi. I pulled coils to check plugs, then replaced them, then replaced coil boots, then replaced one coil that was bad and when I was putting the new one in it wasn't tightening down for some reason. I was using a regular hand socket and the plastic stud boss broke off. It has a brass threaded insert but fat lot of good that did since the plastic broke. I was too pissed to pull it off and try to see if it can be glued back together or if I have to buy a ~$100 used plastic valve cover!
Good thing you're not in the auto industry. "Plastic" (they're actually glass impregnated resin) oil pans are far superior to a stamped steel pan. They're flatter which reduces leaks, much better at reducing engine noise, they're very durable, and they never rust out. They actually cost more to manufacture than a cheepo stamped steel pan, they're chosen because they're better.
When it comes to vehicles that have any significant amounts of short trips where the engine never gets to spend any time at the full temp or lots of heavy traffic, you really have to follow the severe service schedule vs regular. Quality oil is a must, too. You can't just pour in the cheapest conventional oil in town and expect it to 7k miles between changes without sludge buildup that will eventually clog an oil passage somewhere and cause starvation that will shed metal into the oil, and a GAME OVER for the engine. All in all, this looks exactly like the failure Car Wizard likes to go on and on about with the 5.3 3-valve engines. You can spend thousands on doing the chain plus cams and phasers, but you will hit the same issue a few weeks later just because the sludge clogged an oil channel and the brand new parts self destruct due to oil starvation. What's really sad is that the last owner must have put at least a thousand dollars in engine parts alone trying to save a motor that was clearly (to an experienced mechanic) beyond any repair.
Correct: BMW diesel about 25.000 km (15.500 Miles) and computer counts number of cold starts, driving patern etc and recalculates the best timing for the oil change. Remember it is diesel so one can argue if diesel might be a bit worse for fuel type compared to petrol ⛽️.
@@4711Express I still wouldn't trust what the car tells you and just do it on an aggressive fixed schedule or do oil analysis to determine when it really needs it. The manufacturers have realized it's not really in their best interest for you to do oil changes on time - hence the extended intervals.
I know someone who got one of these Rangers as a rental. He put a pair of vice grips on the wastegate to keep it closed. It did the nastiest burnout for about 100 feet. Then Rodney shot out the side of the block.
If the shop that did the work had checked the Carfax and saw that the owner drove 50,000+ miles on the car without maintenance, they should have flat out declined the work. That's the sign of a headache customer you won't be able to satisfy or get rid of.
I own a 2021 Ranger....40K miles....love it so far. I ignore the factory oil change of every 7500 miles...I do mine around every 4K miles....oil changes are still less hassle than new engines....
Thanks for the video... Yeah the vehicle computers telling customers to change oil at 10k miles is not cool. Some people don't change it until that warning pops up, for me, It has been 3m/3k mils, even on my newer vehicles. My Jeep grand Cherokee with the 5.7 has 175k miles on it, and it gets an oil change every 2500 miles... That is how I roll, and most likely why my 2015 Jeep with 175k miles is still kicking without problems... runs great still has plenty of pep and doesn't burn a drop, although my pan gasket leaks a bit... I'm not sweating it right now and plan to change it out soon, but I keep with thoe oil changes.
I change my oil every 3k or 3 months depending on what comes first, I am aware that might be to soon but it’s what feels right, my car is at 198000miles and I have a feeling it’s gonna go 100000+ more
I just traded in a 2019 Ranger with only 39K. I changed the oil with full synthetic every 4,000 miles. I heard they had transmission issues, and I had the symptoms, so I traded it in. Another fun, informative video!
This pisses me off because I had a 1979 2.3 Ford mustang that went 495.000 miles when I traded it for a 79 LTD with 72.000 miles (he was asking 850⁰⁰ for it), so you know it was still strong & chirping 3rd gear on dry payment! It was a family car & taken care of except for my driving it like a mustang,😅. I guess they really don't make them like they used to.🤔😮💨 I only ever had to replace water pumps (12ish) & 1 carburetor for the engine & just maintenance stuff like tie rods, clutches ETC. love the channel.
My 2016 Chevy traverse just hit 170,000 miles yesterday. These engines are known for timing chain failure and engine destruction. But I don’t wait till the 7500 mile suggested interval in the manual. I change it at 5000 miles and check and add when necessary. All these new engines use a lot of oil and these eco boosts aren’t any different.
The worst example I've seen of oil not being changed was in a Chevrolet Safari van. I don't recall the mileage, although it wasn't a new vehicle. The oil was so bad that there were small pieces of metal on the dipstick. The truck ran, but it ran pretty rough.
I just can't get to sleep on Saturday until I hear the sweet, sweet sound of crack cams getting capped. For some reason, that sounded kind of harsh. How about cap cracks getting cammed? Yeah, let's go with that.
Cool that you named your long probably. Back in the early 70s, I bought a long screwdriver from Mac Tools. I was working at a VW dealership at the time. I named it "The Duke". It got a lot of use then, and it still lives in my toolbox. It's still referred to as The Duke to this day.
I sold a 2002 Explorer with 240k on it to a friend. I had changed the oil every 5K throughout the time I owned it. He takes care of his stuff too, The T\truck now has well over 400K on it and still starts, runs, and drives pretty darn well and does not burn oil, maybe a quart between 5K oil changes. Well maintained 4.6Ls will last a long time. The one thing my friend has had to do was a timing chain replacement.
Looks like warranty repair by experienced tech who knew this bandaid fix wouldn't work. I'm surprised he got it as clean as it is given he was only paid warranty time. On a CP job , the sludge would stop teardown as only a fresh engine will fix Maintenance Malfeasance
A lower tech engine often is more robust..the 1982 iron duke has 300k miles. Today..the longest oil change interval i did was 116k miles..i changed the filters every 6 to 12k miles. Drove 72k miles on it in one year.. 116954 miles. Mobil 1 oil. Car eats exhaust manifolds. Put a dozen on it.
Your wisdom is beyond words, even for a salvage guy... keep up your spirits and I wishing you and your family well 😊. Keep up the humouris reviews/teardowns... thanks and happy birthday to the ground/guides 😂
I have a 2020 Ranger with this engine. The factory oil change minder will have you doing 8 to 10k oil changes if you do highway trips. I change mine when it is at 50% oil life remaining and i use full synthetic. Its surprising how many people put non synthetic cheap oils in a modern turbo engine and then follow what the dash says and put 10k on it...sad.
My 19 has 76k and is still pretty good. Also the 2.3 can be swapped into anything with a 2.0 so could be why they were expensive. Also the previous 2.3 non turbo in the 08-11 rangers can also fit the 2.3 ecoboost with slight modifications to the firewall
5-7,000 miles on an oil change is okay if, big if, the vehicle is used at highway speeds, the oil last longer in an engine if the engine is able to get to full temperature, that pretty much evaporates the water that forms from condensation, such as a vehicle used on highways. Vehicles that spend their life city driving or short jaunts from here to there, they will need many more oil changes, about every 3,000 and a vehicle that rarely gets driven, say 500-1000 miles a year, definitely change the oil every year
@@jag4790 All you are doing is increasing the stress on components in the whole vehicle... Accelerate judiciously, brake judiciously..... drive smoothly..... If you live in the big city and only drive short stop and start heavy traffic speeds all week... get out on the highway each weekend and burn off the accumulated water etc. in the oil with a 1 hour jaunt at speed......
I had an '86 chevy cavalier in college that I bought for $600 with just over 145,000 on it to commute. I owned it for a little more than 5 years and sold it with just over 260,000 miles for $200. I put more than 100,000 miles on that beast and never changed the oil (it burnt about a quart every 1,000 miles or so, so technically you could say I did change the oil). I told the kid who bought it from me that I never changed the oil as full disclosure and told him I would just keep checking and adding oil as needed.
I do 5k mile oil and filter changes on my ecoboost fusion with ford oil and filter and my engine looks really good and always runs smooth even with 110k miles
It’s like buying a 4WD F150 and actually driving off road like I did. Scratches and dents down both sides, bent the skid plate, crushed a tire (never heard of that). Then I towed over the Rockies several times a year. I don’t use a bed liner so the bed is all scratched up. Then my old dog pissed in it. But I do change the oil! 😂
Living down the track bush north Oz , going for a trip into town one morning picked up a hitchhiker . . told me he had broken down some way before & he was a school teacher who had been on his way to a remote abo bush community , his vehicle had seized due to lack of oil he figured out when checked dip stick . . he offered in his defense that he had the motor reconditioned many months prior & thought it would't use oil as a result for some time to come & did't bother checking the level . . true story
Yes it does. Older folks think these newer engines are like the old junk they used to drive. And they don’t comprehend the tech involved in these engines.
Magic honey works wonders , had a 302 Windsor that was knocking on heavens door at start up . . after a dose & then regular after , lasted years no issues till replaced it with a Cleveland
Someone please answer this question I have - the 2.0 in our '18 MKC failed at 37K miles due to coolant intrusion, the dealer replaced the engine in MAY 2023 (assembled in March 2023), and this July, the REPLACEMENT ENGINE ALSO failed from coolant intrusion after ONLY 4,000 miles. The second replacement engine in it right now was manufactured this April and has the SAME exact block part number (J2GE 6006 AC) as the failed first replacement engine at 4,000 miles. Has Ford not solved the coolant intrusion problem despite "supposedly" redesigning the block starting around the 2020-ish model year? The block part number on the original engine (assembled in December 2017) is HV 206 AA.
Thank you very much for putting my mind at ease. I have a very well maintained 2019 Ranger XL. I do a 3000 mile oil changes. Ford suggest 6000. (I got 2 free oil changes because I did it a 3000 then 6000) My concern was the oil pump. You showed me I have no cause for concern, because it is not wet belt driven. I had a 1997 Ranger XLT, with the 2.3.. But that I learned was a totally different animal. Thanks again.
Same. I refused to buy a 2.7L because of the plastic oil pans that warp and leak and hate that the 5.0s all have wet oil pump belts. These Rangers have only 1 chain off the crank and I too like the idea of a direct gear driven oil pump off the balance cassette. Do religious early oil changes and don't drive 'em like you stole 'em and they should last. These Rangers also were the last gen with mechanical e-brakes and analog dashboards.
@@the308capital the 5.0 had gear driven oil pumps before 2021MY. Regardless there have been no widespread issues related to Kevlar reinforced belts failing. For the record my 2.7 is 192K miles
I don't drive a lot - between 5 and 6 k miles a year - and I have the oil changed once a year. So far, every time I look at the dipstick, the oil looks like oil, with no signs of forbidden glitter or anything else sparkly. Also, by the by, the engine almost never exceeds 4,000 rpm. The car is almost 23 years old, with only a bit over 150,000 on the clock. The service logbook is hilarious, because the dealer stamps for its service history overflowed the spaces provided about a decade ago; and they started stamping any spare space they could find, so the margins on the last page of the logbook are just filled with service stamps. (I've owned the car for a bit less than four years.)
As always thanks for the Saturday night entertainment Eric. The only question I have for you would be what if the 2nd owner was a DIY'er who changed his/her own oil? I know if you look at the CarFax on my car, you'd see the last time the oil was changed was 7 years and 22,000 miles ago (I don't drive a lot). I change the oil and filter every year, even if the mileage interval isn't met. I just prefer to do it myself so I know the car is getting the right oil, a quality filter, it lets me look at the old oil to see if there are issues (i.e. coolant in the oil, etc), and it also gives me a great opportunity to check under the car for any issues that might be going on. I'm not saying that the 2nd owner of this engine was a DIY'er, and it's entirely possible they didn't do any maintenance on the engine, and if so, shame on them. I'm just not sure how much you can read into a CarFax vehicle history maintenance section.
While I don't think it's the case here, I do kind of get irked that carfax has no way to show and no interest in recording maintenance done by owners. Change your own oil? Next person is going to see a 100K mile gap with no "official" changes.
@@iuyozxentries into what? My Toyotas have an owners site where you can record / track maintenance data and you can input owner performed work. Are you saying CarFax has a similar feature?
@@iuyozx the problem with inputting your own maintenance is that only you can see it, when a Carfax report is ran in doesn’t show. We traded in my wife’s truck last year that had 54,000 miles and only showed the oil changes early on from the dealership. All the maintenance data I input into my garage on Carfax was absent from the report.
please don't paint all EcoBoost engines in the same light..as a failure. Of an engine...example.. the 2 liter engines are made in two different pants.. on in Cleveland and one in spain.. the fusions have on or the other installed in them... but a note here.. the 2.0 ecoboost built in spain, are installed in a land rover,, a volvo and a few other cars... and if you are lucky,,in a fusion.. the spainish versions of the engine have very little problems..i am a tech ( classic Italian cars ) but own a 14 fusion with the vep- spainish built engine.. and now at 194000 miles,, and is runs smooth as silk.. has very good power.. and i still get 33/34 mpg on the freeway at 70 mph in cruse control... 36 mpg at 65 mph.. i have chatted with a friend at volvo and land rover,, about the 2.0 engines that they have installed on that company's car... the result?? no issues with engine,, i do change my oil with full syn dexos2 oil every 6000 miles.. spark plugs every year( they are 5$ each.. cheap )... a lot of folks really don't take care of their cars... so not all ecoboost engines are the devils spawn. as some folk nelieve.
Earlier 2.0 Ecoboost engines also had a closed deck block design which was more robust than the Gen 2's open deck design introduced in the 2015 Edge and spread to the 2017+ Fusion and Escape. There is nothing wrong with an open block design (the 2.3 in this video is also an open block and it's a popular choice for many automakers), but Ford screwed it by machining a slit between the cylinders for extra cooling which ended up being a point for coolant intrusion. The 2020MY Escape introduced a revised 2.0 engine without the slit between the cylinders and there have been no coolant intrusions reported anymore. There is a reason the Focus ST never received the open deck block with slits and that's where you can tell the newer engine was not designed for extra boost nor tunning.
@@engineer_alvout of my time looking for answers regarding the specifics of the 2.0 Ecoboost in the Focus Sts was entirely summed up in this comment. I recently was on a deep dive regarding why the focus st 2.0 wasnt in this recent lawsuit against ford for catastrophic failures for the 2.0 ecoboosts. My research showed that it was due to the type of turbo, due to the single scroll turbo that was used in the focus st models. I did also see that the focus st motors were assembled overseas. overall i took it as the focus st ecoboosts are just single scroll ecoboosts with some better supporting stock parts that kept them alive better. But if it is inherently due to this slit block design and poor assembly is very interesting. how do you feel that inherently they are the same motors with most of the same R n D done on them. That they have the same design philosophy throughout making them still poor, or are the key differences showing major results?
Oil change intervals should be at 5k with synthetic blend oil. My Ranger gets routine oil changes. I expect to get 250 k or more out of it. Abuse of an engine always leads to disaster.
I once took apart a Kubota EA300 single cylinder diesel that had never had the oil changed and failed. The oil had completely congealed into a black jello-ish mass.
I've tried for years to convince my friend that he's killing his cars by not changing the oil! he repeatedly say's "I can't afford it". he got an old cavalier, and after no oil change in 3 years, it dropped 2 valves. he said "why would it do that? there was plenty of oil in it"!
It isn't completely related, but one has to remember that a lot of commenters aren't really clear about how engines work, either. Not even close. Sure, they watch teardown videos here, but nothing has really sunk in as to an overall understanding of how various engine parts do their job. Not a criticism of people, just an observation. There's another huge viewership engine teardown video channel run by a French-Canadian that ends in 99, and he does under 20 minute staccato monologues that are, in my opinion, complete crap -- told him so -- This guy working in his driveway and in the house offers what he thinks are design critiques of engine designs based on zero technical expertise whatsoever, utterly laughable -- any engineer who actually worked for a manufacturer could turn the guy into incoherent knots in two minutes just by asking him a couple of questions. But of course, he has a huge following of Toobnitwits, and you can tell -- they have zero clue, far worse even than the presenter. It's like a horde of English Lit, accountants and librarians praising the dinglebunny for explaining absolutely nothing! I'm a mechanical engineer myself, so regard that channel as the blind leading the blind. Now, Eric here most certainly DOES have a clue. This is one very capable guy, in my opinion. Aside from lurid video titling, he's pretty careful with opinions and conclusions. Quite rightly so. You don't need to be a degreed engineer to thoroughly and innately understand how engines work, you just have to have an aptitude for it. Talented "amateurs" in most fields have all but the most deeply-involved on a particular topic engineers beaten, because of long experience and continued day-to-day interest. But that does leave a big majority out there for whom the penny hasn't dropped on a given subject -- the trouble is, they think it has and think they know a lot but really know little. It's a human trait to jump to conclusions, based on incomplete understanding. We all do it on some occasions. The trick is to not expose your lack of understandin so that others quickly realize -- "that person doesn't get it". Just for personal reasons of self-respect, one sometimes needs to be cautious in offering a silly opinion. But we'll all do it at one time or another. Think of your own daily job. You know it inside out and backwards, and can easily tell if others don't when they make comments and opine nonsense that simply does not fit what you KNOW is the case, leaving you to scratch your head in wonder. Part of life. Dropping valves because of no oil changes is like blaming the taste of beer on the color of the bottle cap, they're unrelated.
Pro tip: if you don't change your oil,your timing chain ain't gonna be happy, and one result can be....dropped valves. Valves need oil too you know. CHANGE YOUR DAMN OIL
This is the type of person that leaves bad reviews about how horrible and unreliable his truck was, and complains to everyone about how his truck was a piece of shit that died at only 100k miles while stopped at a red light.
@@stevenlatham4397 yup. EXACTLY.
This engine died because of poo maintenance but fords suck nothing but problems. I never owned a Ford that didn’t suck. And idk anyone who had a Ford that didn’t have problems. Buy gm
Using logic that only a nitwit could possibly utter in public -- buy GM! On the basis of what? Absolutely bugger all. Never owned a Ford that didn't suck? So why buy a second one then? That's what you're implying. Presumably the first was awful, but you bought again.
Not getting at you personally, because, good lord, there are millions of people who get on a forum and vent about some brand or other. Because they got a "bad one".
Jeez, if I had a buck for all the whiners (on any brand, take your pick) who got on forums, Boobtoob, over at coffeeshop, etc and complained about some brand as if their tirade was the only truth, hell, I'd be richer than Elon Musk.
I've never owned one, but i'd say Buy Toyota! Buy GM? It has never once occurred to me that it would be a good idea, Same with Ford and Chrysler, VW, Mercedes, BMW, Nissan, Hyundai, Kia, Tesla -- doesn't leave much. I'm backed into a corner with Mazda at the moment -- five years on a 2019, no problems except for a criminal stealership service dept. They have managed to competely ruin a good product experience. By "recommending" BS services on a car with oil changes at less than 2K miles -- I don't drive much any more. It's like talking to a complete idiot no matter who the srvice writer is at the desk, and the sevice manager? Well, she should either be on meds at a loony bin or four years into a 30 year sentence for committing fraud on the general public. Likely dozens of times per day.
Much more likely your bad experience with Ford was due to incompetence at dealer level when they were unable to solve a problem, but claimed they did. Just saying.
Same goes with bmws for me, some people buy them with a thought that they won't need much maintenance, yet they complain about these cars being bad because of issues that arrises. I'm not gonna talk about N54/N55/N63 engine equipped ones, these are expensive to maintain and these are really troublesome (could be reliable, but you'd go broke trying to keep it that way)
@@matthewbradley8226ZERO problems with my 2019 F150 with 2.7 twin turbo. It’s been more reliable than my Toyotas. 5 years old, 52,000 miles, zero so far
As a mechanic myself it is always fun to watch teardowns on engines I don't work with. Thanks for all the awesome teardowns Eric!
Same here. I enjoy seeing all the different designs.
I find it amazing with all the stuff going on in engines that they last as long as they do
Uncle Rodney would say that engine got no respect, no respect at all!
Knock knock ✊🏻✊🏻
@@samholdsworth420 Who's there?
@@timradde4328 uncle Rodney
@@timradde4328 The grim reaper
Take my Ecoboost.....please, says Uncle Rodney Dangerfield!
Been following for over two years. One constant you hear from almost every engine tear down, "change your oil'.
Same, this channel has motivated me to change more often. I used to let my wife’s car go 5-6k on full synthetic … not anymore.
@@infidel900rr 5K full synthetic intervals are perfectly fine in a world of manufacturers calling for 10K mile intervals
@@infidel900rr 5k is totally fine and this is where you want to be.
Cheap insurance, full synthetic every 5K
if you carfax my cars you won't see oil changes.. you have to look at the notebook I keep in the glove box.... I don't trust any mechanic to change my oil... if somebody is going to forget to fill the engine it is going to be me
I had $9300 in rear end damage fixed on my last car about 10 years ago. It was done by a dealer's body shop. The Carfax just listed the date, mileage, and "vehicle serviced."
Can't trust Carfax!
Unfortunately if there is ever a warranty claim the manufacturer will try to deny do to lack of maintenance. Simply because you chose not to pay someone else to do your oil changes. I had a 4 cylinder Dodge Stratus that lasted 236000 miles because Idid my own oil changes until the tow truck (that I called to tow it after the og a/c compressor locked up on me) put a hole in oil pan. Then claimed that it was preexisting the cost of a new pan and new compressor far out weighed the value of the car even if I put them on myself.
@@jeromy742 what are you talking about. Nothing you said makes any sense. The tow truck wasn't liable because you did your own oil changes? just stop.
My dealership doesn't care about who does the oil changes. Just as long as you can prove it was done. A log book (they used to have a section in the paper owners manual) and receipts will work just fine. If the manufacturer won't honor it... buy a different vehicle.
@craigquann By law (in the US anyway) the manufacturer is required to honor a log book and/or receipts for purchases of oil & filters or oil changes done elsewhere for warranty purposes.
- "Knock, knock"
- Who's there?
- "It's Rodney"
- Rodney who?
- "Rodney Bearing"
😄
That rear crank seal retainer plate showed the TRUE extent of the sludge & varnish that was accumulated in that poor engine over its brief lifespan. I'd be ashamed of myself, if that were my engine. Kinda like having to go to the emergency room with dirty underwear on.
I have the perfect solution for the last problem in your statement there. I've been doing it since I was 18 and spent a couple of months in the woods with the park service. Just don't wear skivvies. Then you don't have to worry about them being dirty when you get to the hospital and if you wipe your ass your pants won't be t dirty either
@@michaelfrench3396 Brilliant!
I'm wondering if he even ran synthetic oil.
Absolutely 💯 😂
I mean shoot bro at least if you crap your drawers in the emergency room theres probably an emergency youre dealing with. This engine couldve lasted to 150k miles if they didnt neglect the oil changes. Built ford tough of course right
Oil is cheaper than charging the engine! Just changed mine this morning 8q and a filter for $48. Full sync. 380,000 miles. On a 5.0 F150.
In Canada, double that price.
Everyday moving south of the border just makes more sense.
@@NSUGS 7q and no filter is $90 for my car and its specific oil formula, so I don't think country has anything to do with it
@@NSUGSbruh do your own oil change for 50$ CAD for a full synthetic from Canadian tire
Worked drill floor oilfield . . most fun you can have releasing that locked up oil aka not fossil remains of forests . . that burnt is actually re greening the globe . . debate me you cows
@@NSUGSacting like you pay double than Americans. No shit, canadas wages are higher than America, who knew?!
“I jumped on it because it was a stick” no pause 😂
lots to unpack with that
Same NGL
You’re gay.
A family friend is TERRIBLE at car maintenance. She would go years between oil changes. In fairness, she has a wheelchair bound husband that is 100% permanently disabled, and 2 kids (teens at the time). She's got a lot going on. Oil changes just isn't something you can ignore. I bought her all the equipment (tools, drain pan, oil, filter, etc.) and changed the oil for her, teaching her teen boy how to do it. I also purchased enough oil and a filter for the next oil change. She made dinner for us that evening at her house. All day long, and all throughout dinner, I kept quizzing the boy "what mileage is the next oil change due?" so he'd remember. A year later I came back, and saw the oil and filter sitting in the corner of the garage. I was done with them. If they won't even do basic work (when they HAD the supplies) to take even a minor amount of care of their car, then they don't even deserve to have a car.
These Ford 2.3 Ecoboosts are really good engines in the rangers. Barely see issues with them and only see issues with them if you don't do oil changes. Puts out great HP and Torque for that little truck. Good towing capacity too.
I have the explorer with the 2.3 and really like the drivetrain. I thought it would be underpowered but the engine really punches above its size. The 10 speed is usually good but can randomly be clunky
@@georgelin8498 ik what you mean. Usually shifting from 2nd to 3rd gives a little jerk in the ranger
Have a 22 Ranger and love the 2.3 EcoBoost. Full synthetic every 5k miles. I am a bit unnerved how black the oil gets in a relatively short period of time. 🤷
That four bangers POS by Ford will never make it past 100k miles. Guaranteed they all blow up.
@@dagothodros641 Who told you? I have my Ranger at !99,000 miles with oil changed every 4000 miles.
I have a family member who is a cheap Charlie when it comes to vehicle maintenance. The manufacturer stated "10,000 mile oil changes" - they followed it, and then some. I think about 12k-ish before they changed it. Ditto for tires. Even though the car was driven below average miles, tires didn't get changed for nearly 10 years because "they still had good tread." People like that are penny wise and pound foolish.
imagine only changing oil 8 times in 100K miles lol
I would say it was never changed. Like... ever. You'd be surprised how many people think changing the oil is just a "'big oil' conspiracy to sell more oil". That's not "poor maintenance intervals, that's NO maintenance intervals lol
@@cantwealljustgetalong2 Agreed. 10K OCI is absolutely ridiculous. I have a 2023 Ram that calls for 10K OCI. I did the first "break in" OC at 1K mi., second at 5K and then 5K thereafter for the life of the vehicle. Oil is cheap, $60K trucks are not.
@MiawMaineCoons yeah complete insanity. 5 quart jugs of mobil 1 full synthetic are 23 dollars at walmart and oem filters are available on rock auto for 5 bucks a filter if you buy a case. its literally so cheap to change oil every 3 or 4 thousand miles.
@CNCMatrix lol yeah i work at a shop and we have lots of customers that follow the manufacturers intervals of 10K miles....the oil that comes out of the pans is a sludgy pitch black mess, and when we put fresh oil and a filter on and check the oil level the fresh oil is still black because the engines are so dirty and contaminated inside
Great video as usual. Quite a few years ago, I had a Ford Ranger with a 2.3L. If was in the 1980s and the engine was the iron block 2.3 similar to the Pinto engine. It went 300,000 miles. I changed the oil every 5000 miles. I now have a Nissan Frontier with the 2.5L engine. It is running fine at over 100,000 miles. Again, I have the oil changed every 5000 miles just as Nissan recommends. As is in the video mentioned, oil is cheaper than engines.
Can you turbo charge those old 2.3’s?
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 Ford did turbo the 2.3 lima, in the Mustang SVO/ Merkur XR4Ti, Thunderbird Turbocoupe (83-88) and Cougar XR7 (83-86) i think.
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 I think Ford built a turbocharged Mustang with one of these in the 1980s. I do not remember how well it worked. My truck was not turbocharged and still had a carburetor.
@@Jody-kt9ev I had an '88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe with the turbo 2.3 5 speed, car ran flawlessly for 189,000 miles until I traded it for a '95 T-Bird SC..Still had the original turbo, and didn't burn a drop of oil between 3,000 mile oil changes. Those were great engines.
Yep. I had one of those Thunderbirds. Metallic blue. It was a good car.
Alright!!! Saturday is complete !!!!
Been on the look out for this as well.
Soo true right! ! !
Good night!
(or go out and party)
I work from home, so my Civic doesn't go far. Bought it in 22 with 197 KM. Today it has 2016 KM, and it has an oil change every 5 K. Even when the oil is just a touch brown, if it has a burnt smell in any way shape or form it is out of there. I have seen too many engines on the channel not cared for, and Eric will never get mine. I am very aware that my engine need proper warm up time because it will drive 8 K every other day. THX Eric for all the great work.
There is such thing as too much.
On the other side, some say the factory intervals are too far apart, especially for performance / work stuff. Especially when actually driven.
Subaru owner here and ditto on the 5K. I even bought the special coolant so I can top it up myself.
What is KLM?
@@Noksus Metric Kilometers per hour.
You mean "km"? Kilometer?
I had my oil changed yesterday. I use good quality oil and change every 3K. 215K on the car and it runs great. I asked to see the oil filter. I looked in the folds and it was clean as a whistle. No silver flecks, no sludge, nothing. I hope to see 300K on this vehicle.
Ive caught 3 different shops one was even a dealer, that dont actually change the oil. They just wipe the filter off and top it up so the stick reads full. So you cant always blame the car owner for extended oil changes etc. Thanks for the video.
This. I remember a few shops getting caught in one of them news investigations flatout not doing the work, or purposefully creating other issues to force a return visit 💸💸💸
No way that was the end of such practices.
Then you have the inept techs that can't even ask for help and mess things up.
knew mechanics who bragged about taking the customers alternator off & giving it some spray paint & charging for a reconditioned one
Dealers tend to attract dishonest mechanics and service managers. Bet their pay structure encourages this, it happens too often. You know what they say, 10 bad apples give the remaining 90 a bad name.
Looks like the front of the timing guides were wiped clean, now they’re brand new $$$
Always ask for the old parts. Its a reverse core charge. The only way you shouldn't be able to get them back is if warranty is covering the work. Otherwise they belong to you.
Just wanted to go to bed. But I will never skip one of these videos. Thanks for your time and stay safe.
Greetings form Germany
Don't hold back on these wasters
Climbing the ladder unnecessarily to throw the water pump in the bin hand me DYING! xD
I'll wager someone put engine flush in there and drove the car. The instructions on that stuff say to not drive the car. The rod bearing damage would indicate this is why the bearing did what they did. Someone paid much money for that.
Thanks for another great video sir!
You forgot the part about driving with wide open throttle!
The shop probably put the flush in and gave the keys back to the customer... 4.8 star shop. There's no way this customer ever found the oil fill or drain plug or dipstick. Then the 4.8 star shop probably got to get paid to do an engine replacement.
2.3 ecoboost has been out for 10 years and has been a reliable engine. Valvoline has two 2.3 running non stop in explorers to test the differences between full synthetic and blend. Both engines have over 400k. The only issues they had was a front crank seal.
Test is easy to find on youtube.
I'm excited to see this tear-down, because as far as I can tell this is the same engine used in my 2017 S550 Mustang with 2.3L i4 EcoBoost engine... The only difference, as far as ChatGPT will tell me, is that the one you did the teardown on has a different tuning package and slightly beefier pistons and rods for towing and such... Could be completely wrong... I'm not a tech..
I vowed to never return to my Ford Service Center after I caught them doing numerous fucked up things..
1) Covering dash cams before starting work, with an oily rag no less..
2) Failed to slot in tabs on an access panel after changing a battery. They literally didn't slot in the tabs and just screwed it back into place, bending all the tabs upwards.
3) Failed to use the oil and filter I supplied for them (i buy the good shit) and they just shrugged off my notes and used whatever crap they had in the back.
4) The service guys love to talk down to you on the phone and cut you off and talk over you mid-sentence when you're trying to give them the information they asked for.
Ford could live up to their great founders name, if they wanted to, and make quality cars and trucks, but they're seemingly okay with mediocrity and ridicule.
They definitely tried to flush the engine after a bunch of symptoms had already appeared. Total waste of money.
Maybe instead of one bottle, they put 2 or 3 in, and ran it longer than directions on bottle... I laughed when he said this poor engine.
@@randyhall2135 I remember years ago with Eric The Car Guy doing an engine flush only to find out it only made it worse, and highly recommends avoiding that at all costs
Customer was probably avoiding the engine change. Used vehicle so sold to person with low income.
“I’m just gonna zip bolts off til the parts fall off” subscribed.
Of course the owner neglected the engine - *but nobody deserves to have a chain tensioner and 2 guides on the material bill and taking the engine out of the car and replacing these 3 parts on the labour bill when it's actually not done!* 😵💫
Rainman's latest video had a car where the bill says they turned the rotors, but did not. At a dealer, of course.
@@russellstyles5381 Feels like 1989-1990 again. At least, that's the last "dishonesty plague" I remember through ste...er... dealerships.
Its always been like that. There was never a time when it wasn't. My grandfather talked about the things they did in the 1950s that was outrageous, that involved sawdust😂
The OCI for this engine is "roughly 7500-10000 miles" as indicated by the owners manual. I tend to do mine "before 7500 miles" usually between 6000 and 7500. I haven't seen inside my engine, but at 77K miles it still runs and sounds great.
Good thing you blurred out the Car Fox's face. You don't want him coming after you
Hmm, a person's body with a dog's head? I say he's a Car Werewolf!😂
So continue my 5000 mile MAX change interval on the ranger.. noted
2.3 eco boost every 3k miles!!!
@@Brownlightning1990 I'll get right on it after it gets done sitting at the dealer for over a month for transmission TSB lolol
-You and Ray MacKinlay's work to help out that family in need really restores my faith in humanity Eric.
Somebody changed a few parts, like the turbo, timing chain, variable timing solenoids, cam gears and oil, after a flush, but skipped a few also. Shame it wasn't serviced better during it's life.
Engines are complex, skimp on oil changes, spend way more for new parts wtf people?
Uncle Rodney putting that new RTV on old RTV! 😅 "Work of a true craftsman."
"I jumped on it because it was a stick" that's what she said.......I couldn't resist. great video I always enjoy these, also I would say the lack of on time oil changes and then an engine flush is what did that one in. engine flushes are a bad idea when you see that much sludge, the engines best chance is good quality engine oil changed early with maybe a bit of gentle cleaning additive that works slowly with the oil over time.
I do oil changes for a living and let me tell you the average oil change on every car that comes in is between eight and 12,000 miles between oil changes
That’s really unfortunate
@@I_Do_Cars and what’s really amazing. Is people are spending a fortune for these cars and they’re absolutely trashed on the inside I mean trashed.
@@anthonybertone2336 I wonder all the time how people feel they have enough resources to treat such a huge expenditure with so little regard.
8000 miles ? Some manufacturers recomend 12.000 miles?
I feel bad doing 7k intervals on my own DD but I make sure it's topped off in between. This thing was probably ran down to nothing.
I come to see you break down engines but its a bonus how good your comedy is
I dated a woman that had a 1975 ford Granada with a 351W That had almost NO maintenance on it. Once I put valve cover gaskets on it, the sludge was even with the tops of the rocker arms. The car had 252,000 on it when I did that valve cover gasket job. I couldn't believe it had not blown up already. She actually drove the car to 301,000. It still ran, but the front suspension was so bad that you couldn't keep it on the road. I would say that there was no reason to bother rebuilding that engine after she quit driving that car..
What year was this?
@@scottkrafft6830 Back in the mid 80's
I bought a pretty cool looking 78 Magnum w/400 4bbl from a "friend" in the mid to late 80's. When I went to change a leaky left valve cover gasket, the dry-looking sludge was covering the rockers, rocker shaft, and was starting to take the shape of the inside of the valve cover, kinda like a jello mold. I removed the intake manifold and breastplate gasket, and I found a solid, giant "pancake" of ashy-dry sludge the size & shape of the lifter valley. It was crazy.
Rebuilding the front suspension on a car like wouldn't be terribly expensive. Was this car in an area that rusts cars out?
14:11 Looks like the camshaft has a message for whoever was in charge of changing the oil lol
Thanks for another great teardown, Eric - your commentery and working style never fail to entertain me ... I know it's a tough challenge to get these engines in the US, but there are two engines I'd really like to see on your channel: a Volkswagen W8 or W12 and the notorious V10 TDI :-) And no - I'm not a fan of them, but I think they would be a nice addition ;-)
Have a great week and greetings from good 'ol Germany
After watching your channel for some time.......I change the oil in our vehicles when there's nothing to watch on tv (really often).
Thanks for your efforts.
2.3 EB's are very stout and reliable. I have had 2 over the years. a 2015 Mustang Ecoboost Premium and now a 2023 Bronco. Both have /had some modifications, with absolutely zero issues. Oil changed at 5,000 miles every time though. maintenance is the key.
No issues with your 2023 bronco lol. It’s a year old dude
@@lesterparker1594just because it’s new doesn’t mean anything, plenty of vehicles can have problems even being new. Ask owners of brand new Tundras!
@@lesterparker1594 it's still a 10 yr old engine design which has proven reliable through the years.
Reliable? Those cars and truck constantly have problems.
@@Zippadeedoodaa-nt8om lol, no they don't... show me otherwise?? you can't LMFAO!!!! clown
As far as maintenance history, lots of shops don't report to any services, neither do any owners who diy. My truck gets oil every 5k, trans every 30k, diffs and transfer at 60k. The only things that would show on a report is the "free" first couple of oil changes that gm included with the purchase
I uprgraded the turbo on my 2019 ranger 2.3. Tuned it and a banks pedal monster. Never had an issue before then. Dont have any issues now either. This was an awesome video
I have a 2021 ranger. How much horsepower are you getting out of it with the turbo and tune?
I own a line-mate of this engine with only 49k on it. It was a lease turn-in and only had 32k on it after 3 years when I bought it. I've only put 17k on it after 3 years (I live really close to work) and have changed the oil 3 times, with the fourth due here in a month. I pray that the inside of my engine looks way better than this! At least now I know what the inside of my engine looks like. Thanks Eric!
Bought a 01 or 02 neon a long time ago that was very poorly maintained. The oil was like sludge. I drained the oil from the engine hot. Then ran about a gallon of kerosene into the valve cover. Started it back up for maybe 10 or 15 seconds. Drained it, and got a ton of black sludge. I left it drip for a long long time, engine still very warm. Then I refilled with oil, and ran it normal for a couple weeks and changed the oil again. I probably wouldn't do it again, but I was to broke to deal with it another way...but that engine ran for another decade just fine after that until I got rid of the car. Would I recommend that, never, but in this case it worked out
Ingenuity in tough circumstances, and I'm glad it worked out well!
Indeed, these newer engines with tighter tolerances and VVT require the utmost attention to replacing the oil at regular intervals. I believe much less forgiving than older pushrod engines.
The fact that this thing still lasted 100k miles despite that oil change interval is amazing.
There was a youtuber who got a brand-new maverick and drove it over 100k miles in a year with no oil change. He was too busy youtubing to get any maintenance done on it.
Synthetic oil helps a lot.
And it might have made it a bit longer if he didn't end up at that shop. Looks like the flush was the final nail in the coffin.
i borrowed a family friends ford escape for a week when my car was in the shop, i drove it about 2600 miles in that week so i wanted to be nice and change the oil before i gave the vehicle back. when i went to go drain the oil the pan was near empty like less than a quart came out, long story short the car had 46,000 miles on it and never had a single oil change since it was bought new. crazy part is it drove perfectly with almost no oil in it. im sure it didnt last past 80 or 90 thousand miles though lol
@@localrogersynthetic oil doesnt help a lot. its almost the same as conventional oil, mostly a gimmick
Eric, I have a suggestion. Tear down Honda GCV160 and GM LIH engine side-by-side. Both have wet timing belts, Honda is an old lawn mower engine, LIH might as well be in a ride-on lawn mower. I understand these might be hard to come by, but with how many Chevy Traxs' are on the road there is a chance at some point in the future.
I own a 2.3L Ford Ranger. If you were wondering about the oil change intervals, the manual says ever 5,000 or 7,000 or 9,000 mi depending on the driving conditions.
The 7 and 9K seem like just too long for a turbocharged engine.
@@bills6093 Why do you think that? Synthetic oil technology has come a long way.
@jonathansmith7306 no matter the technology oil gets dirty and filters get clogged. Definitely too long of interval.
@@jonathansmith7306
The distance interval isn't the issue as much as the type of driving.
Short distance driving is absolutely horrible on engines because the moisture is rarely evaporated completely contributing to high sludge build up.
Synthetic oil is designed to accommodate the higher engine temperatures of the newer engines.
I do 7,500 mile oil changes on my motorcycle (currently at 110,000 miles) and road vehicles because a one way trip is between 54 and 135 mile, with a couple of hours of stop and go and in and outs for shoping. However, all of the town rigs get 3,500 mile changes with Shell Rotella T4 to prevent sludge build up and it works fantastic.
I had a long haul Kenworth T600 that got interval changes 7,500 and 10,000 miles with the Rotella T4 because it was a coast to coast rig and was gone for three weeks at a time. The engine had an in-frame roll-in freshen up at 586,000 miles and a full out of frame rebuild at 1.7 million miles.
It all depends upon how the vehicle is used and who is driving it.
When I worked for Ford the interval for oil change stickers was 8,000km (5,000 miles)
Thank you for doing this 2.3 ecoboost. Feel free to do it again!
Bought my wife a 2019 eco sport 48k miles..all service done by the dealership..it cost yea. Recall killed it with the oil pump belt and tensioner. Finally Ford decided to replace the motor with 87k on it since catastrophic oil failure. I’m going back to 70’s vehicles. Edit. Oil changes are regular in my wife’s car..and my 06 Saturn.
Isn't that thing equipped with the glorious wet belt?
@@MiGujack3 🤷♂️ the invincibility of the belt is inhumane.
Pretty old school dude.
Hey! I’d love to see a 24 Tacoma 4 cylinder turbo engine teardown. Supposedly they are junk and don’t last long. I’m sure there’s a large pile somewhere based on all the comments I see on RUclips. Enjoy watching the channel. 🎉
-Folks, If I were Mary Barra or any other auto company CEO the very first thing I would order is that BLACK PLASTIC VALVE COVERS be discontinued. We would go back to cast aluminum stuff immediately! And the same for oil pans. If we have to stamp them from cheap steel then so be it; NO MORE BLACK PLASTIC!
But black (or coloured) plastic valve covers are cheap and light? 🙂The design life of the car/truck is only 7 years/100,000miles after all. Plus if they warp like on GM engines -- spare parts sales!
I prefer aluminium myself, engine bays full of plastic are really ugly -- Ecoboost inline-fours are some of the ugliest engines.
The Ford Australia Barra inline-six had plastic valve covers unlike the previous Intech inline-six, they were coloured in different colour plastic: Red for Turbo, Green for LPG, Black for standard IIRC. It's not great, but it is what it is. Same for the GM Vortec 4200, some had aluminium valve covers, some had plastic valve covers.
The coil pack cover is plastic on the barra but the actual valve cover is metal (not sure what type of metal)
I'm not a fan after working on my 2007 Chrysler 300C with the 5.7 Hemi. I pulled coils to check plugs, then replaced them, then replaced coil boots, then replaced one coil that was bad and when I was putting the new one in it wasn't tightening down for some reason. I was using a regular hand socket and the plastic stud boss broke off. It has a brass threaded insert but fat lot of good that did since the plastic broke. I was too pissed to pull it off and try to see if it can be glued back together or if I have to buy a ~$100 used plastic valve cover!
@@FastSS02 Wow, that sucks!
Good thing you're not in the auto industry. "Plastic" (they're actually glass impregnated resin) oil pans are far superior to a stamped steel pan. They're flatter which reduces leaks, much better at reducing engine noise, they're very durable, and they never rust out. They actually cost more to manufacture than a cheepo stamped steel pan, they're chosen because they're better.
When it comes to vehicles that have any significant amounts of short trips where the engine never gets to spend any time at the full temp or lots of heavy traffic, you really have to follow the severe service schedule vs regular.
Quality oil is a must, too. You can't just pour in the cheapest conventional oil in town and expect it to 7k miles between changes without sludge buildup that will eventually clog an oil passage somewhere and cause starvation that will shed metal into the oil, and a GAME OVER for the engine.
All in all, this looks exactly like the failure Car Wizard likes to go on and on about with the 5.3 3-valve engines. You can spend thousands on doing the chain plus cams and phasers, but you will hit the same issue a few weeks later just because the sludge clogged an oil channel and the brand new parts self destruct due to oil starvation.
What's really sad is that the last owner must have put at least a thousand dollars in engine parts alone trying to save a motor that was clearly (to an experienced mechanic) beyond any repair.
Correct: BMW diesel about 25.000 km (15.500 Miles) and computer counts number of cold starts, driving patern etc and recalculates the best timing for the oil change. Remember it is diesel so one can argue if diesel might be a bit worse for fuel type compared to petrol ⛽️.
@@4711Express I still wouldn't trust what the car tells you and just do it on an aggressive fixed schedule or do oil analysis to determine when it really needs it. The manufacturers have realized it's not really in their best interest for you to do oil changes on time - hence the extended intervals.
I know someone who got one of these Rangers as a rental. He put a pair of vice grips on the wastegate to keep it closed. It did the nastiest burnout for about 100 feet. Then Rodney shot out the side of the block.
If the shop that did the work had checked the Carfax and saw that the owner drove 50,000+ miles on the car without maintenance, they should have flat out declined the work. That's the sign of a headache customer you won't be able to satisfy or get rid of.
I own a 2021 Ranger....40K miles....love it so far. I ignore the factory oil change of every 7500 miles...I do mine around every 4K miles....oil changes are still less hassle than new engines....
Thanks for the video... Yeah the vehicle computers telling customers to change oil at 10k miles is not cool. Some people don't change it until that warning pops up, for me, It has been 3m/3k mils, even on my newer vehicles. My Jeep grand Cherokee with the 5.7 has 175k miles on it, and it gets an oil change every 2500 miles... That is how I roll, and most likely why my 2015 Jeep with 175k miles is still kicking without problems... runs great still has plenty of pep and doesn't burn a drop, although my pan gasket leaks a bit... I'm not sweating it right now and plan to change it out soon, but I keep with thoe oil changes.
I change my oil every 3k or 3 months depending on what comes first, I am aware that might be to soon but it’s what feels right, my car is at 198000miles and I have a feeling it’s gonna go 100000+ more
I just traded in a 2019 Ranger with only 39K.
I changed the oil with full synthetic every 4,000 miles.
I heard they had transmission issues, and I had the symptoms, so I traded it in.
Another fun, informative video!
Trans issues in the ranger aren’t very common. They’re really common in the explorer though
Not sure when you bought in 19 but you may have had warranty left on it. Probably should have brought it in.
This pisses me off because I had a 1979 2.3 Ford mustang that went 495.000 miles when I traded it for a 79 LTD with 72.000 miles (he was asking 850⁰⁰ for it), so you know it was still strong & chirping 3rd gear on dry payment! It was a family car & taken care of except for my driving it like a mustang,😅. I guess they really don't make them like they used to.🤔😮💨 I only ever had to replace water pumps (12ish) & 1 carburetor for the engine & just maintenance stuff like tie rods, clutches ETC. love the channel.
Those fords from the 70's and 80's were garbage. They are slightly better today.
That's not my dad! That's a cell phone!
I love Lonely Island 😂
My dad is not a phone, duuuuuuh 😂
🤣🤣 Awe man the memories! “Two Hollywood phonies tried to give me their autograph - GROUND!”
My 2016 Chevy traverse just hit 170,000 miles yesterday. These engines are known for timing chain failure and engine destruction. But I don’t wait till the 7500 mile suggested interval in the manual. I change it at 5000 miles and check and add when necessary. All these new engines use a lot of oil and these eco boosts aren’t any different.
You should sell some merch. An "Uncle Rodney, is that you?" shirt would be awesome.
The worst example I've seen of oil not being changed was in a Chevrolet Safari van. I don't recall the mileage, although it wasn't a new vehicle. The oil was so bad that there were small pieces of metal on the dipstick. The truck ran, but it ran pretty rough.
I just can't get to sleep on Saturday until I hear the sweet, sweet sound of crack cams getting capped.
For some reason, that sounded kind of harsh. How about cap cracks getting cammed? Yeah, let's go with that.
Cool that you named your long probably. Back in the early 70s, I bought a long screwdriver from Mac Tools. I was working at a VW dealership at the time. I named it "The Duke". It got a lot of use then, and it still lives in my toolbox. It's still referred to as The Duke to this day.
Damn auto fill. I meant to say your long pry bar...
You were hoping for an orca blast once you got the plugs out!
I sold a 2002 Explorer with 240k on it to a friend. I had changed the oil every 5K throughout the time I owned it. He takes care of his stuff too, The T\truck now has well over 400K on it and still starts, runs, and drives pretty darn well and does not burn oil, maybe a quart between 5K oil changes. Well maintained 4.6Ls will last a long time. The one thing my friend has had to do was a timing chain replacement.
Looks like warranty repair by experienced tech who knew this bandaid fix wouldn't work. I'm surprised he got it as clean as it is given he was only paid warranty time. On a CP job , the sludge would stop teardown as only a fresh engine will fix Maintenance Malfeasance
A lower tech engine often is more robust..the 1982 iron duke has 300k miles. Today..the longest oil change interval i did was 116k miles..i changed the filters every 6 to 12k miles. Drove 72k miles on it in one year..
116954 miles.
Mobil 1 oil.
Car eats exhaust manifolds. Put a dozen on it.
Your wisdom is beyond words, even for a salvage guy... keep up your spirits and I wishing you and your family well 😊. Keep up the humouris reviews/teardowns... thanks and happy birthday to the ground/guides 😂
I have a 2020 Ranger with this engine. The factory oil change minder will have you doing 8 to 10k oil changes if you do highway trips. I change mine when it is at 50% oil life remaining and i use full synthetic. Its surprising how many people put non synthetic cheap oils in a modern turbo engine and then follow what the dash says and put 10k on it...sad.
I own a 21 Ranger. Never clicked on a video so fast! I religiously change my oil every 3500 miles with Rotella 5W40
Same but with Mobil 1 5w30
My Hyundai's recommended oil change interval is 7,500 miles, and the oil still looks good each time.
Happy Saturday night, all my online friends.
Hope you have a great one!
Happy Saturn/Satan old Sun swap days . . near extinction event is 'happy' ?
My 19 has 76k and is still pretty good.
Also the 2.3 can be swapped into anything with a 2.0 so could be why they were expensive.
Also the previous 2.3 non turbo in the 08-11 rangers can also fit the 2.3 ecoboost with slight modifications to the firewall
5-7,000 miles on an oil change is okay if, big if, the vehicle is used at highway speeds, the oil last longer in an engine if the engine is able to get to full temperature, that pretty much evaporates the water that forms from condensation, such as a vehicle used on highways. Vehicles that spend their life city driving or short jaunts from here to there, they will need many more oil changes, about every 3,000 and a vehicle that rarely gets driven, say 500-1000 miles a year, definitely change the oil every year
Any vehicle with a turbo using synthetic should still be 3 to 4 k
Does hauling ass to the speed limit help the engine? So if the speed limit is 65 and the light turns green i go pedal to metal till i hit 65.
@@jag4790
All you are doing is increasing the stress on components in the whole vehicle...
Accelerate judiciously,
brake judiciously.....
drive smoothly.....
If you live in the big city and only drive short stop and start heavy traffic speeds all week...
get out on the highway each weekend and burn off the accumulated water etc. in the oil with a 1 hour jaunt at speed......
I had an '86 chevy cavalier in college that I bought for $600 with just over 145,000 on it to commute. I owned it for a little more than 5 years and sold it with just over 260,000 miles for $200. I put more than 100,000 miles on that beast and never changed the oil (it burnt about a quart every 1,000 miles or so, so technically you could say I did change the oil). I told the kid who bought it from me that I never changed the oil as full disclosure and told him I would just keep checking and adding oil as needed.
I can’t believe the oil filter didn’t explode!!
That's when engines were built like tanks. The best era of trucks and cars was the time they first introduced fuel injection until the late 1990s.
Around 1985 or 1986.
great teardown, change your oil folks. its the most important thing it seems
Oil and coolant ...
I do 5k mile oil and filter changes on my ecoboost fusion with ford oil and filter and my engine looks really good and always runs smooth even with 110k miles
I think the sawzall needs to be a regular tool for disassembly on this channel
I have a '19 Ranger. It nags you if it wants an oil change! It doesn't seem to be time or mileage, there must be some sort of oil quality sensor.
Imagine paying $30,000 for a truck and not taking care of it. Make it make sense.
Can hardly buy these used for 30k
It’s like buying a 4WD F150 and actually driving off road like I did. Scratches and dents down both sides, bent the skid plate, crushed a tire (never heard of that). Then I towed over the Rockies several times a year. I don’t use a bed liner so the bed is all scratched up. Then my old dog pissed in it. But I do change the oil! 😂
I can buy a used 2019-2022 Ranger for $20,000-$25,000.
Living down the track bush north Oz , going for a trip into town one morning picked up a hitchhiker . . told me he had broken down some way before & he was a school teacher who had been on his way to a remote abo bush community , his vehicle had seized due to lack of oil he figured out when checked dip stick . . he offered in his defense that he had the motor reconditioned many months prior & thought it would't use oil as a result for some time to come & did't bother checking the level . . true story
Yes it does. Older folks think these newer engines are like the old junk they used to drive. And they don’t comprehend the tech involved in these engines.
Regarding the core charge; these are really popular engines for performance swaps. Lots of people put them in fox body mustangs.
New style of rod bearings with air gap for extra cooling....
Magic honey works wonders , had a 302 Windsor that was knocking on heavens door at start up . . after a dose & then regular after , lasted years no issues till replaced it with a Cleveland
Someone please answer this question I have - the 2.0 in our '18 MKC failed at 37K miles due to coolant intrusion, the dealer replaced the engine in MAY 2023 (assembled in March 2023), and this July, the REPLACEMENT ENGINE ALSO failed from coolant intrusion after ONLY 4,000 miles. The second replacement engine in it right now was manufactured this April and has the SAME exact block part number (J2GE 6006 AC) as the failed first replacement engine at 4,000 miles. Has Ford not solved the coolant intrusion problem despite "supposedly" redesigning the block starting around the 2020-ish model year? The block part number on the original engine (assembled in December 2017) is HV 206 AA.
Uncle Rodney is always the life of the party!
Thank you very much for putting my mind at ease. I have a very well maintained 2019 Ranger XL. I do a 3000 mile oil changes. Ford suggest 6000. (I got 2 free oil changes because I did it a 3000 then 6000) My concern was the oil pump. You showed me I have no cause for concern, because it is not wet belt driven. I had a 1997 Ranger XLT, with the 2.3.. But that I learned was a totally different animal. Thanks again.
Same. I refused to buy a 2.7L because of the plastic oil pans that warp and leak and hate that the 5.0s all have wet oil pump belts. These Rangers have only 1 chain off the crank and I too like the idea of a direct gear driven oil pump off the balance cassette. Do religious early oil changes and don't drive 'em like you stole 'em and they should last. These Rangers also were the last gen with mechanical e-brakes and analog dashboards.
@@the308capital Many years ago I was told I drive like an old lady.
@@the308capital the 5.0 had gear driven oil pumps before 2021MY. Regardless there have been no widespread issues related to Kevlar reinforced belts failing. For the record my 2.7 is 192K miles
I'm taking a pretend dump at work to watch this 👌🏽
For 39 minutes? I hope someone checks on you
😂😂
PAY dump
Jealous...I'm pretending to have a job
Employee of the month !!😂
I don't drive a lot - between 5 and 6 k miles a year - and I have the oil changed once a year. So far, every time I look at the dipstick, the oil looks like oil, with no signs of forbidden glitter or anything else sparkly.
Also, by the by, the engine almost never exceeds 4,000 rpm.
The car is almost 23 years old, with only a bit over 150,000 on the clock. The service logbook is hilarious, because the dealer stamps for its service history overflowed the spaces provided about a decade ago; and they started stamping any spare space they could find, so the margins on the last page of the logbook are just filled with service stamps. (I've owned the car for a bit less than four years.)
Funny how these modern small 4 cylinder engines aren't all that small.
Junk.
As always thanks for the Saturday night entertainment Eric.
The only question I have for you would be what if the 2nd owner was a DIY'er who changed his/her own oil? I know if you look at the CarFax on my car, you'd see the last time the oil was changed was 7 years and 22,000 miles ago (I don't drive a lot). I change the oil and filter every year, even if the mileage interval isn't met. I just prefer to do it myself so I know the car is getting the right oil, a quality filter, it lets me look at the old oil to see if there are issues (i.e. coolant in the oil, etc), and it also gives me a great opportunity to check under the car for any issues that might be going on.
I'm not saying that the 2nd owner of this engine was a DIY'er, and it's entirely possible they didn't do any maintenance on the engine, and if so, shame on them. I'm just not sure how much you can read into a CarFax vehicle history maintenance section.
While I don't think it's the case here, I do kind of get irked that carfax has no way to show and no interest in recording maintenance done by owners. Change your own oil? Next person is going to see a 100K mile gap with no "official" changes.
1000% agree.
Owners can input entires.
@@iuyozxentries into what? My Toyotas have an owners site where you can record / track maintenance data and you can input owner performed work. Are you saying CarFax has a similar feature?
@@iuyozx the problem with inputting your own maintenance is that only you can see it, when a Carfax report is ran in doesn’t show. We traded in my wife’s truck last year that had 54,000 miles and only showed the oil changes early on from the dealership. All the maintenance data I input into my garage on Carfax was absent from the report.
@@romanc4708 ahh ok. Didn’t realize that
This example is the poster child for Maintenance on any engine!
please don't paint all EcoBoost engines in the same light..as a failure. Of an engine...example.. the 2 liter engines are made in two different pants.. on in Cleveland and one in spain.. the fusions have on or the other installed in them... but a note here.. the 2.0 ecoboost built in spain, are installed in a land rover,, a volvo and a few other cars... and if you are lucky,,in a fusion.. the spainish versions of the engine have very little problems..i am a tech ( classic Italian cars ) but own a 14 fusion with the vep- spainish built engine.. and now at 194000 miles,, and is runs smooth as silk.. has very good power.. and i still get 33/34 mpg on the freeway at 70 mph in cruse control... 36 mpg at 65 mph.. i have chatted with a friend at volvo and land rover,, about the 2.0 engines that they have installed on that company's car... the result?? no issues with engine,, i do change my oil with full syn dexos2 oil every 6000 miles.. spark plugs every year( they are 5$ each.. cheap )... a lot of folks really don't take care of their cars... so not all ecoboost engines are the devils spawn. as some folk nelieve.
Earlier 2.0 Ecoboost engines also had a closed deck block design which was more robust than the Gen 2's open deck design introduced in the 2015 Edge and spread to the 2017+ Fusion and Escape. There is nothing wrong with an open block design (the 2.3 in this video is also an open block and it's a popular choice for many automakers), but Ford screwed it by machining a slit between the cylinders for extra cooling which ended up being a point for coolant intrusion. The 2020MY Escape introduced a revised 2.0 engine without the slit between the cylinders and there have been no coolant intrusions reported anymore.
There is a reason the Focus ST never received the open deck block with slits and that's where you can tell the newer engine was not designed for extra boost nor tunning.
@@engineer_alvout of my time looking for answers regarding the specifics of the 2.0 Ecoboost in the Focus Sts was entirely summed up in this comment. I recently was on a deep dive regarding why the focus st 2.0 wasnt in this recent lawsuit against ford for catastrophic failures for the 2.0 ecoboosts.
My research showed that it was due to the type of turbo, due to the single scroll turbo that was used in the focus st models. I did also see that the focus st motors were assembled overseas.
overall i took it as the focus st ecoboosts are just single scroll ecoboosts with some better supporting stock parts that kept them alive better. But if it is inherently due to this slit block design and poor assembly is very interesting.
how do you feel that inherently they are the same motors with most of the same R n D done on them. That they have the same design philosophy throughout making them still poor, or are the key differences showing major results?
Oil change intervals should be at 5k with synthetic blend oil. My Ranger gets routine oil changes. I expect to get 250 k or more out of it. Abuse of an engine always leads to disaster.
Happy birthday to that ground…
I threw the rest of the cake too!!!
I once took apart a Kubota EA300 single cylinder diesel that had never had the oil changed and failed. The oil had completely congealed into a black jello-ish mass.
I've tried for years to convince my friend that he's killing his cars by not changing the oil! he repeatedly say's "I can't afford it". he got an old cavalier, and after no oil change in 3 years, it dropped 2 valves. he said "why would it do that? there was plenty of oil in it"!
How is dropping valves related to not changing the oil? 🤔
It isn't completely related, but one has to remember that a lot of commenters aren't really clear about how engines work, either. Not even close. Sure, they watch teardown videos here, but nothing has really sunk in as to an overall understanding of how various engine parts do their job. Not a criticism of people, just an observation.
There's another huge viewership engine teardown video channel run by a French-Canadian that ends in 99, and he does under 20 minute staccato monologues that are, in my opinion, complete crap -- told him so -- This guy working in his driveway and in the house offers what he thinks are design critiques of engine designs based on zero technical expertise whatsoever, utterly laughable -- any engineer who actually worked for a manufacturer could turn the guy into incoherent knots in two minutes just by asking him a couple of questions. But of course, he has a huge following of Toobnitwits, and you can tell -- they have zero clue, far worse even than the presenter. It's like a horde of English Lit, accountants and librarians praising the dinglebunny for explaining absolutely nothing! I'm a mechanical engineer myself, so regard that channel as the blind leading the blind.
Now, Eric here most certainly DOES have a clue. This is one very capable guy, in my opinion. Aside from lurid video titling, he's pretty careful with opinions and conclusions. Quite rightly so. You don't need to be a degreed engineer to thoroughly and innately understand how engines work, you just have to have an aptitude for it. Talented "amateurs" in most fields have all but the most deeply-involved on a particular topic engineers beaten, because of long experience and continued day-to-day interest.
But that does leave a big majority out there for whom the penny hasn't dropped on a given subject -- the trouble is, they think it has and think they know a lot but really know little. It's a human trait to jump to conclusions, based on incomplete understanding. We all do it on some occasions. The trick is to not expose your lack of understandin so that others quickly realize -- "that person doesn't get it". Just for personal reasons of self-respect, one sometimes needs to be cautious in offering a silly opinion. But we'll all do it at one time or another.
Think of your own daily job. You know it inside out and backwards, and can easily tell if others don't when they make comments and opine nonsense that simply does not fit what you KNOW is the case, leaving you to scratch your head in wonder.
Part of life. Dropping valves because of no oil changes is like blaming the taste of beer on the color of the bottle cap, they're unrelated.
@@dans_Learning_CurveIf they didn't bother changing the oil, you think they any other form of maintenance like timing chain/belt ?
Pro tip: if you don't change your oil,your timing chain ain't gonna be happy, and one result can be....dropped valves. Valves need oil too you know.
CHANGE YOUR DAMN OIL
Somehow, hearing you asking for Uncle Rodney just makes my whole week. Thanks, dude!
Poor engine, went from the OG owner taking care of it to the second owner neglecting it