I just completed this operation on my 2013 F150 and what a pain it is! The easiest way to approach this is through the passenger inner fender well. Remove the passenger tire and the inner fender and you will have easier access to the screws on the bottom of the vacuum pump. I found the top screw easier to access from the top (I used a long handled pivoting ratchet). I had to leave the top screw in the pump assembly when removing because there was not enough room between the pump and the firewall to remove the screw - remember to put that back in BEFORE attempting to reinstall the pump!. Note that the brass-looking oil tube and the wingnut-looking thing on the assembly are NOT securely attached as part of the assemble and they will fall off and land in the most inconvenient of places (schedule a half hour for this - I found mine on the metal splash shield). Not a horrible job the second time you'd have to do this but a real pain the first time.
Hey was the truck able to brake prior to the replacement? I’m having an issue with my truck and it doesn’t brake, they’re hard and locked up. I believe this may be the fix. any further info please let me know
@@felixdacat04._63 Yes it was able to brake. As this was 3 years ago I don't remember what the issue was that prompted this replacement and I have since moved on to a newer F150.
Just did this to my 2016 because my pedal was stiff going slow. Did it in an hour with a ratchet from the top just laying across the engine. Great video. Thanks!!
The milled circle where the gasket goes has 2 deep indentations opposite to each other. It is only at these two indentations where silicone is to be applied. (Check minute 3:42 - 3:52).
Just Wrapped it up, went well. Tips: (1) Buy the Dorman 800-040 replacement clips before you begin. (2) Remove the bolts with the head of the bolt aimed downward, otherwise they hit the firewall and are a pain to remove and install.
Thanks for the help. I started the project on an early weekend morning -- highly motivated. I had the OEM part, the torque wrench, brake cleaner, 8mm ratchet and wrench, a rag or two, high-performance silicone, floodlight, and even a couple of zip ties. I chose to access the vacuum pump from the top (engine compartment) versus the bottom (wheel well) technique. I removed the oil cap and engine cover. Disconnected the hose. And then I reached the 8mm bolts with my wrench. Wow, they're tight! Like crazy tight. Like loctite tight. The previous owner must have tried to stop the leak by tightening the bolts. I couldn't budge them; especially, with the little leverage available working in such a small space. I tried all 3 bolts. No progress on any of them. Reluctantly, I'm going to call around for pricing. Thanks again.
The job from the engine bay was fairly easy. The most difficult part for me was removing the vacuum line with that damn clip. Broke the clip as they are so fragile so I zip-tied around the entire clip and it holds stronger than with just the clip. I layed towels at the front of the engine bay (for support for my abdomen and legs) and basically climbed up and laid flat like I was planking. I used the mirror for cleaning/scraping old sealant off the aluminum area behind the engine where the pump goes. Took an hour. Im not a mechanic and have never done it before.
I broke mine too. They don’t sell just the clip so ordered a whole new hose. Thought about zip tying it as well but didn’t. I always seem to break them clips
Thanks! Been holding off on this until today because your video was so helpful. Not many techs specify the tools and sizes to get the job done! Thank you.
I've had to have this done twice, first time at 148k and just recently at 176k. I wish I'd know this second time it was the same issue, I'd done it myself. This part is roughly $150, but labor was what got me, nearly $500. Never again.
I wish you would have known the problem my mechanic found this problem and he's fixing it. If I wouldn't known the problem I would have watched his video and did it myself
@@schallerindustries8745 just so you know there is one place that makes a seal rebuild kit.. RKX TECH vacuum pump seal kit…. Once you have the pump out you can take the back plate off and there is a seal in there as well.
2014 F150 Eco. 167K mi. I wish I saw this video before I paid $1700 to the Ford dealer to fix- said it was a 5hr job? Business truck...so yes its a write off, but damn that's a lot! They said that they had to pull the valve cover and replace that gasket too. From the comments, I too had the random smoke come up from the passenger side under the hood at idle- smelled like burning oil in the vehicle occasionally. I took it in immediately when I no longer felt safe driving- It started out months prior with an occasional sound of the ABS activating when I was creeping in idle letting off/on the brake when towing a trailer. Then it went away (the smell & smoke were still there on/off) I drove it with no issues for a couple more months, then I towed again- this time it came back to stay with or without towing. It was a lot $ to swallow that fix, but 10 years and I only replaced a throttle body (myself) and a brake light switch. No other issues.
Got mine just need to put it on thanks for the video...ps the oil can also leak on the turbo Manifold and burn and smoke will come out from under the hood .mine does
I have been trying to figure out my brake issues for ages, and I think this might be the culprit! My brakes get hard and/or squishy/gurgly when I idle for more than a few seconds. Thanks for the video! 2013 F150
I just did one and the top bolt was stripped, oreillys has a socket kit that removes rounded bolt heads and it worked, cost $35 for a set of them. Found a replacement bolt at menards, 10mm not 8mm but correct length.
Great educational video thanks, You cut off the installation part where probably you struggled it to put it in !!! This is gonna be my next project Thanks again for ur video 👍
I think my 2016 has this issue. I sometimes have a burning smell when I pull up to a red-light and I have even noticed white smoke coming from the passenger side of the hood and fender well on. Does that sound like this issue?
Hey man I think I have same issue. I know I have a small oil leaks and noticed puffs of white smoke the other day coming from same spot. Did you confirm it was this pump or seal
Jonathan Gilbert mine has been doing the same for about 6 months, last night my brakes completely failed! I’m hoping this is the fix to both of these problems!
Just so everyone knows you can buy a seal kit for these pumps. It’s the rubber that gets bad over time from heat and cooling. RKX TECH.. that’s front and back seals and a little one that goes on the stem.. ford only sells the front last time I knew. They don’t cost much..
Thanks for the reply. I did diagnose the leak. Me thinks the service adjuster is padding the estimate. Question is whether the Tech would go ahead with it. For the couple hours it’ll take I think I’ll take advantage of the warm weather and just do it myself.
I almost had it back in but the filter screen came loose and fell into the motor under the cam. Idk if it was a faulty pump but the old one didnt come loose like that. Will have to take the valve cover off and fish it out hopefully. What a pain.
When you line up the ears from the old pump and the same to the new vacuum pump, what if the camshaft ears don't line up. Do you have to turn the motor so the vacuum pump ears lineup with the same on the shaft in the the motor
You're lucky this was a 2015. I have a 2014 and is was twice as tight in the back against the firewall. One of the worst jobs I've done on a vehicle. Had to go through wheel well. Couldn't get a socket or wrench to go on straight. Rounded off 2 of the bolts and had to use a chisel to get them broke free. Never again!
Dude,2013 is awful,I have a decent amt of mechanical experiences,some success and a few failures and this mf by far is the worst. I would have paid at least a thousand bucks in labor for this,no way u can pull pump off like that on 2013 firewall is too close,if ur considering diy reconsider if u have 2013...j.s.,I hate paying mechanics to f u ck up my vehicle but would have for this gladly,hope the engineer dies b4 he can design anything else,I mean that.
I have a 2014 looks impossible to get it from behind the engine..will i have to go thru the wheel well like you did ? I’m trying to tackle this job this weekend any tips will help ?
Are you sure this seal fits the 2015 f150? When I click the link it takes me to an expedition. I changed the vehicle to my truck and it says it doesn’t fit. Thanks.
In changing my pump, two of the bolts were 10 ml and one was 8 ml. What the heck? I bought the truck about a year ago with 90k miles. I wonder if someone didn't already replace the pump at some time in the not too distant past. I didn't notice the burning smell until I started using the heater(some 4-5 months after purchase of truck).
2013 F-150. My pump was leaking oil at 55,000 miles. It took 3 trips to Ford before they found out what was making the oil burning smell. Sad. It was replaced last trip and I still smell oil! What gives???
Sorry I forgot to state....issue turned out to be simple...the oil leak was from a valve cover gasket on the backside near the firewall. And 3 trips to Ford and they couldn’t see this?
I got a burning smell and found a forum where a guy had the same thing and at the end he said "it was the vacuum pump". What would cause a burning smell with these? Like a small oil leak or something?
The oil leaks and runs down to the manifold. Oil leak is also why I'm here. My seal is gone but the truck has 154,000 miles on it so I'm just going to replace the entire pump.
Hey mate. That pin like in the middle did you push in or you pull the pin out prior intallation? Whats the correct way because that pin is movable you can push and pull… nice video
Good video,i have a question ,if you dont mind to answer, i have a f 150 2012 ,when im in park ,engine run ,i push the brake twice hard ,& ear something like air pump that runing for 10 sec ,& stop ,what is ,are danger to run daily. Or are somthing to foget, thanks ,george
Did you let the RTV sit after applying as the package states or did you install the pump right away with fresh RTV? Don’t want to waste an hour waiting if I don’t need to. Awesome video!!!
High Friction Vacuum Pump? Anyone have any problems with passenger side exhaust camshaft timing chain failures (twice for me) that were caused by a high friction vacuum pump?
I think mine is leaking not so sure. Was the oil like a clear looking oil? And if it’s the vacuum pump would it still like wen the truck is on? Or only when it’s off ?
It only leaks engine when engine is on. The oil is clear, tan or brown ( depends on your engine oil condition and age). If get to underneath the car, near passengers side firewall, you will see leaking oil covers transmission, starter, etc. Most time when it is not so severe, you don't experience anything unless you go underneath the car, you will discover the leak, and you almost think leak comes from head, but for F150 2013-2014 Eco-boost ( I heard some the Explore and Expedition too), it is due to the Vacuum pump.
Coworker has 2007 tundra with 370k miles hasn’t even got a tune up. Doesn’t leak/use oil. 100k miles on my ecoboost. Third throttle body and now this is leaking on mine! Moral of the story kind of wish I would’ve purchase a tundra. Granted I know they can have issues
@@jason91205 ya well I know ppl with Toyotas with transmission problems! Also other issues. My eco boost has almost 200,000 miles and has had any major issues. I know some ppl with over 300,000 and a few close to 400,000 and still no problems. All my fords I’ve had I never had to rebuild a tranny. Unlike Chevy and dodge. I’ve had several fords even after I sold them to friends they didn’t have any issues and they were at 300,000 and still going strong.
That’s every issue with the ecoboost. They’re never corrected and they just keep pumping out motors. I’m a Ford guy, but I wish they would fix the common issues. Especially the phasers and cam chain issues
@DoubleTap702 Mine went bad. Handheld said replace throttle body. Opened up old one and found that Ford went with plastic gears inside that wear down prematurely, which in turn will not open the butterfly.
Anybody know the part number for the vacuum pump hose that attaches to it? The white locking ring looks really brittle and I want to have a backup when it probably breaks when I remove it to replace the vacuum pump. Thanks in advance.
Someone mentioned that they left one of the bolts in the pump, and put it back in before installing. I forget which one. I also read that the 2013-14 has less clearance to the firewall than the 2015 in this video. Have you done the job yet? How did it go?
Does anyone know what the line is that you remove before the bolts that’s connected to the vacuum pump? I broke the white clip. Any help is appreciated.
Would this seal going bad make oil be on the passenger side of the oil pan near the drain plug? Just replaced my oil pan 5,000 miles ago and I have oil stains in my driveway, and can see the oil on the pan.
Does it make sense that about the same time I started noticing the burning smell coming from the vents, I started noticing a sort of groaning feel/sound at slow speeds when turning/braking? Thanks to all for your comments/ideas/questions/answers.!!!! :-))
That is exactly what I'm experiencing. I've read elsewhere that the vacuum pump might be failing when you notice that "groaning". Did you ever resolve the problem with your truck?
@@markosborn1394 Mark, I ended up getting rid of the F-150 back in july. I did replace the vacuum pump, but that didn't seem to take care of the problem. I ended up replacing the valve cover on the right side, I believe. And that still didn't seem to take care of it. I would have probably ended up replacing the valve cover on the opposite side had I still had it. Wish I could offer more help. I did do the vacuum pump job myself but it was a miracle I got it swapped out because it was a job for small hands and somebody mighty flexible. 😋
I have the same thing I was wondering if because the vacum pump is failing if the vacume actuated 4wd awe were not able to suck the awe causing it to drag in 4wd
This was the comment I was looking for. Having same problem(s). Smell and noise. Was hoping someone else said that this fixed both. I've never been able to solve my iwe noise. Really hoping this is it. Plan on replacing pump tomorrow
What if the gold piece tube that filters the oil came off I lost it is there a replacement for just that part or do I have to replace the whole new pump and buy another new one?
My mechanic just changed mine. Apparently he’s done a bunch but mine is the first one they’ve had the brass piece fall off inside the engine. After much time searching for it they found it in the oil drain passage on the block. They can’t get to it but say it won’t hurt anything.
I have a 16 Expedition with the ecoboost. Just discovered today a P0016, P0017 (camshaft codes) P0299 (Turbo code) and a miss fire in cyclinder 4. A comment on FB recommend this part would that make swnse?
I think I may have one going bad on my 2016 EcoBoost. Do these make a knocking sound when they are going bad? Like tapping on the bottom of a plastic 5 gallon bucket?
@@bradbury2007 it is definitely coming from near the firewall and not the front of the engine. Sounds like you tapping on the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket.
I like video got to do this on my 2014 eco 53000 miles wish video was more clear on silicone. Im gonna try this. Im not a mechanic can someone set me straight on silicone placement
I thought these Ford trucks vaccum pump for the brakes is located near the drivers headlight? Never knew of a cam driven pump off the back of the head.....
He not only said what kind of silicone he uses in the video but he also showed it on camera. You may want to re-watch the video again so you can see it. Hope this helps.
Is it risky to just change the seal? Seal is $5-$10 the pump at my local parts store is $125. How would I know what is the best choice? It's leaking oil and stinks the cab up with burnt oil smell.
Can this part cause a rough idle? My truck (2015 F150 3.5EB) has had what I believed to be a misfire since the day I got it at 120k miles, but have had no luck fixing it with boots, properly gapped plugs, and cleaning MAF sensors.
@@AaronHinesAuto dang i only have 45k on my 2015 2.7, love the videos please do some on the 2.7 when you can. Also when ever you do a video give the mileage is always interesting to know. Thanks again.
Does this affect the IWE? I have changed hubs, actuator, check valve and solenoid but still hear slight grind and feels like is in 4WD. 2013 eco boost 3.5.
Have you update on this? I believe it does because your iwe may have low vacuum pressure from the line and it’s causing the grinding sound. Have you replace pump yet?
This just happened to me also. Brought it in to get changed. It fell off inside the engine. After much searching they found it lodged in the oil drain channel. They can’t get to it but say it won’t hurt anything. 🤷🏼♂️
Hey guys i have a 14 3.5v6 with 61,000 miles on it and i get this nasty smell only when i start the car and it goes away after few minutes... could it be this pump?
My truck did the same thing. At first I was thinking the feral cats urinated on my engine. Took it to the dealer and it was this! Paid 441 bucks to get it replaced.
I just completed this operation on my 2013 F150 and what a pain it is! The easiest way to approach this is through the passenger inner fender well. Remove the passenger tire and the inner fender and you will have easier access to the screws on the bottom of the vacuum pump. I found the top screw easier to access from the top (I used a long handled pivoting ratchet). I had to leave the top screw in the pump assembly when removing because there was not enough room between the pump and the firewall to remove the screw - remember to put that back in BEFORE attempting to reinstall the pump!. Note that the brass-looking oil tube and the wingnut-looking thing on the assembly are NOT securely attached as part of the assemble and they will fall off and land in the most inconvenient of places (schedule a half hour for this - I found mine on the metal splash shield). Not a horrible job the second time you'd have to do this but a real pain the first time.
Thanks for the heads up
Hey was the truck able to brake prior to the replacement? I’m having an issue with my truck and it doesn’t brake, they’re hard and locked up. I believe this may be the fix. any further info please let me know
@@felixdacat04._63 Yes it was able to brake. As this was 3 years ago I don't remember what the issue was that prompted this replacement and I have since moved on to a newer F150.
@@felixdacat04._63 did u replace? I’m having the same issue on my 14
I have watched 4 videos of mechanics replacing this vacuum pump and your video is the most simple and clear well explained I mean better 🤭👍
Just did this to my 2016 because my pedal was stiff going slow. Did it in an hour with a ratchet from the top just laying across the engine. Great video. Thanks!!
The milled circle where the gasket goes has 2 deep indentations opposite to each other. It is only at these two indentations where silicone is to be applied.
(Check minute 3:42 - 3:52).
This was a good add on.
Just Wrapped it up, went well.
Tips:
(1) Buy the Dorman 800-040 replacement clips before you begin.
(2) Remove the bolts with the head of the bolt aimed downward, otherwise they hit the firewall and are a pain to remove and install.
Thanks for the help. I started the project on an early weekend morning -- highly motivated. I had the OEM part, the torque wrench, brake cleaner, 8mm ratchet and wrench, a rag or two, high-performance silicone, floodlight, and even a couple of zip ties. I chose to access the vacuum pump from the top (engine compartment) versus the bottom (wheel well) technique.
I removed the oil cap and engine cover. Disconnected the hose. And then I reached the 8mm bolts with my wrench. Wow, they're tight! Like crazy tight. Like loctite tight. The previous owner must have tried to stop the leak by tightening the bolts.
I couldn't budge them; especially, with the little leverage available working in such a small space. I tried all 3 bolts. No progress on any of them. Reluctantly, I'm going to call around for pricing. Thanks again.
The job from the engine bay was fairly easy. The most difficult part for me was removing the vacuum line with that damn clip. Broke the clip as they are so fragile so I zip-tied around the entire clip and it holds stronger than with just the clip. I layed towels at the front of the engine bay (for support for my abdomen and legs) and basically climbed up and laid flat like I was planking. I used the mirror for cleaning/scraping old sealant off the aluminum area behind the engine where the pump goes. Took an hour. Im not a mechanic and have never done it before.
How did u access
It ? We’re u laying on engine or standing on a stool ?
@@cheizaguirre5494 lay across it
This will be me tomorrow 😅
I broke mine too. They don’t sell just the clip so ordered a whole new hose. Thought about zip tying it as well but didn’t. I always seem to break them clips
I'm going to use a moving blanket
Thanks! Been holding off on this until today because your video was so helpful. Not many techs specify the tools and sizes to get the job done! Thank you.
Great help, just finished replacing mine with help from your video! Took me about 1.5 hours start to finish. Thanks!
glad to hear!!!!
@@AaronHinesAutoIs the 2014 still possible to remove the pump from the top? I’ve heard it’s tighter quarters vs later years. Thanks!
Good video. If you pull the inner fender liner you have more room and visibility to make the job easier!
Remove the tire as well?
I've had to have this done twice, first time at 148k and just recently at 176k. I wish I'd know this second time it was the same issue, I'd done it myself. This part is roughly $150, but labor was what got me, nearly $500. Never again.
Same here. Got quoted about $800 to replace this and a multifunction switch. Ridiculous.
I wish you would have known the problem my mechanic found this problem and he's fixing it. If I wouldn't known the problem I would have watched his video and did it myself
Doughboyracing whoever charged you that seriously ripped you off for and hours worth of work.
I just qot quoted $734 from local Ford dealer. Glad Aaron Hines shared this video.
@@schallerindustries8745 just so you know there is one place that makes a seal rebuild kit.. RKX TECH vacuum pump seal kit…. Once you have the pump out you can take the back plate off and there is a seal in there as well.
2014 F150 Eco. 167K mi. I wish I saw this video before I paid $1700 to the Ford dealer to fix- said it was a 5hr job? Business truck...so yes its a write off, but damn that's a lot! They said that they had to pull the valve cover and replace that gasket too. From the comments, I too had the random smoke come up from the passenger side under the hood at idle- smelled like burning oil in the vehicle occasionally. I took it in immediately when I no longer felt safe driving- It started out months prior with an occasional sound of the ABS activating when I was creeping in idle letting off/on the brake when towing a trailer. Then it went away (the smell & smoke were still there on/off) I drove it with no issues for a couple more months, then I towed again- this time it came back to stay with or without towing. It was a lot $ to swallow that fix, but 10 years and I only replaced a throttle body (myself) and a brake light switch. No other issues.
Got mine just need to put it on thanks for the video...ps the oil can also leak on the turbo Manifold and burn and smoke will come out from under the hood .mine does
Yep my turbo was covered and when cleaning everything i noticed it drips from bell housing onto ground mimicking a real main seal leak
Just push the white clip in and it will release you chance breaking it if you try to remove it.
Now you tell me... 😂
I have been trying to figure out my brake issues for ages, and I think this might be the culprit! My brakes get hard and/or squishy/gurgly when I idle for more than a few seconds. Thanks for the video! 2013 F150
Currently doing this operation and come to find out the top bolt is stripped. So I get to go buy an extractor set tomorrow.
I just did one and the top bolt was stripped, oreillys has a socket kit that removes rounded bolt heads and it worked, cost $35 for a set of them. Found a replacement bolt at menards, 10mm not 8mm but correct length.
Great educational video thanks,
You cut off the installation part where probably you struggled it to put it in !!!
This is gonna be my next project
Thanks again for ur video 👍
Bout to do this on my 2020 transit 350hd. I have a feeling you had this pretty easy compared to the struggle I’m in for.
I think my 2016 has this issue. I sometimes have a burning smell when I pull up to a red-light and I have even noticed white smoke coming from the passenger side of the hood and fender well on. Does that sound like this issue?
Hey man I think I have same issue. I know I have a small oil leaks and noticed puffs of white smoke the other day coming from same spot. Did you confirm it was this pump or seal
Jonathan Gilbert mine has been doing the same for about 6 months, last night my brakes completely failed! I’m hoping this is the fix to both of these problems!
@@trevorrodriguez1 I just had mine replaced two days ago, so far so good. I had them replace the pump at the same time.
@@brianmcfarland9809 so no more smell now?
@@darylstricker1353 Mine started again after a few days and I replaced the valve cover gasket. Haven't had the issue since.
Just so everyone knows you can buy a seal kit for these pumps. It’s the rubber that gets bad over time from heat and cooling. RKX TECH.. that’s front and back seals and a little one that goes on the stem.. ford only sells the front last time I knew. They don’t cost much..
Thanks for the reply. I did diagnose the leak. Me thinks the service adjuster is padding the estimate. Question is whether the Tech would go ahead with it. For the couple hours it’ll take I think I’ll take advantage of the warm weather and just do it myself.
I got 170k miles and mine is doing same thing now yay
Great video. Im about to do this on my buddy's truck. 2014 with 160k miles on it. Just started leaking on him
Thanks for the video , you just saved me $500.
Did it myself I deserve a beer now 😂
F150s much more easier than expeditions..
I almost had it back in but the filter screen came loose and fell into the motor under the cam. Idk if it was a faulty pump but the old one didnt come loose like that. Will have to take the valve cover off and fish it out hopefully. What a pain.
So much more room on the 15 than the 14....I’m ready to choke out the engineer.
Well you see there are engine engineers & truck cab engineers.
They don't ever meet, so there is no consideration for servicing/repair.
They do it on purpose. Once they find out it's too easy, they change the design on the next year. Then they sit back and laugh.
@@bozscaggzz7475 It sounds good, but if you knew American industry you would know there is too much DISintegration for devilish designing.
2013 has very little room. Cant use a regular socket wrench
I'ma '13!
my 2013 EcoBoost has been solid 116k miles . I did replace valve cover right side because of tube seal leaks
great video! do you know where I can find a video for a 2017? It seems very different on those years. Thank you!
I didn't catch your response to the question about the silicone all the way around the gasket? Is that correct?
Did u find out how ? I’m trying to tackle this job this weekend any tips will help
White replacement clip.
NAPA part number 730-7381
Ford 5/8" fuel line retaining clip
Bevel side goes toward the end of the hose.
Was hoping you were right bc I broke my clip but nah that’s the wrong clip man
@@christianswigert6809 u find the right clip and # ?
When you line up the ears from the old pump and the same to the new vacuum pump, what if the camshaft ears don't line up. Do you have to turn the motor so the vacuum pump ears lineup with the same on the shaft in the the motor
You're lucky this was a 2015. I have a 2014 and is was twice as tight in the back against the firewall. One of the worst jobs I've done on a vehicle. Had to go through wheel well. Couldn't get a socket or wrench to go on straight. Rounded off 2 of the bolts and had to use a chisel to get them broke free. Never again!
So there is more room in the 2015?
@@bigpicturethinking5620 yes. Several inches. New design in 2015
@@ajjenga4316 I can confirm. Mine was very straightforward to fix. 30 min in and out.
Dude,2013 is awful,I have a decent amt of mechanical experiences,some success and a few failures and this mf by far is the worst. I would have paid at least a thousand bucks in labor for this,no way u can pull pump off like that on 2013 firewall is too close,if ur considering diy reconsider if u have 2013...j.s.,I hate paying mechanics to f u ck up my vehicle but would have for this gladly,hope the engineer dies b4 he can design anything else,I mean that.
I have a 2014 looks impossible to get it from behind the engine..will i have to go thru the wheel well like you did ? I’m trying to tackle this job this weekend any tips will help ?
Are you sure this seal fits the 2015 f150? When I click the link it takes me to an expedition. I changed the vehicle to my truck and it says it doesn’t fit. Thanks.
In changing my pump, two of the bolts were 10 ml and one was 8 ml. What the heck? I bought the truck about a year ago with 90k miles. I wonder if someone didn't already replace the pump at some time in the not too distant past. I didn't notice the burning smell until I started using the heater(some 4-5 months after purchase of truck).
Mine is leaking on my turbo. At first, i thought i was going to need a turbo. Im going to ise this video when i do my pump
I replaced it and now I'm seeing smoking on my turbos is that from oil run from when I took it off and putt new one on
2013 F-150. My pump was leaking oil at 55,000 miles. It took 3 trips to Ford before they found out what was making the oil burning smell. Sad. It was replaced last trip and I still smell oil! What gives???
what did you end up finding out about this? i have a 2013 and I have a faint burnt oil smell through my vents
Sorry I forgot to state....issue turned out to be simple...the oil leak was from a valve cover gasket on the backside near the firewall. And 3 trips to Ford and they couldn’t see this?
I have Motorcraft TA-29 Ultra Silicone Sealant. Will this be good to use for this job or should I get the TA-357 as you are using?
How do you get the stupid white clip off the little vacuum hose? I can’t even get that done been at it for 45 minutes. Any suggestions?
I got a burning smell and found a forum where a guy had the same thing and at the end he said "it was the vacuum pump". What would cause a burning smell with these? Like a small oil leak or something?
The oil leaks and runs down to the manifold. Oil leak is also why I'm here. My seal is gone but the truck has 154,000 miles on it so I'm just going to replace the entire pump.
@@DubTee1480 i'm at 103,000 do you think I should replace the pump? Trying to get out of spending that much atm
Hey mate. That pin like in the middle did you push in or you pull the pin out prior intallation? Whats the correct way because that pin is movable you can push and pull… nice video
I’ve got the same problem on my 2014.
Love the video why dose no one ever say what the part coast
I was trying to put the new pump back on and the pin fell of and went inside the engine. What do I do? Please let me know.
This just happened to me also. Mechanic Can’t get it out. But say it won’t hurt anything where it’s at.
Good video,i have a question ,if you dont mind to answer, i have a f 150 2012 ,when im in park ,engine run ,i push the brake twice hard ,& ear something like air pump that runing for 10 sec ,& stop ,what is ,are danger to run daily. Or are somthing to foget, thanks ,george
Did you let the RTV sit after applying as the package states or did you install the pump right away with fresh RTV? Don’t want to waste an hour waiting if I don’t need to. Awesome video!!!
Will the new pump be hot within the first five of running the truck?
Broke the clip off it what’s my next step?
High Friction Vacuum Pump?
Anyone have any problems with passenger side exhaust camshaft timing chain failures (twice for me) that were caused by a high friction vacuum pump?
Can you share a link of which silicone you used please
Great job
I think mine is leaking not so sure. Was the oil like a clear looking oil? And if it’s the vacuum pump would it still like wen the truck is on? Or only when it’s off ?
It only leaks engine when engine is on. The oil is clear, tan or brown ( depends on your engine oil condition and age). If get to underneath the car, near passengers side firewall, you will see leaking oil covers transmission, starter, etc. Most time when it is not so severe, you don't experience anything unless you go underneath the car, you will discover the leak, and you almost think leak comes from head, but for F150 2013-2014 Eco-boost ( I heard some the Explore and Expedition too), it is due to the Vacuum pump.
Made it look easy
Will this pump fit a 2011 f150 ecoboost?
This would be easy swap but I can’t get the dam bolt off it easily stripped lol
Did you wet the gasket with oil before replacing or install dry?
Has everyone gone with oem pump or have they try after market and has any issues with that
Very helpful
I don't see this vacuum pump on my 2011 F150 ecoboost?
i have 2.7L ford f150 my cuestion is do i have the vaccum pump all so in my truck
Shame on Ford: every eco boost I seen has this issue, YET Ford has not done anything about it
Coworker has 2007 tundra with 370k miles hasn’t even got a tune up. Doesn’t leak/use oil.
100k miles on my ecoboost. Third throttle body and now this is leaking on mine! Moral of the story kind of wish I would’ve purchase a tundra. Granted I know they can have issues
@@jason91205 ya well I know ppl with Toyotas with transmission problems! Also other issues. My eco boost has almost 200,000 miles and has had any major issues. I know some ppl with over 300,000 and a few close to 400,000 and still no problems. All my fords I’ve had I never had to rebuild a tranny. Unlike Chevy and dodge. I’ve had several fords even after I sold them to friends they didn’t have any issues and they were at 300,000 and still going strong.
That’s every issue with the ecoboost. They’re never corrected and they just keep pumping out motors. I’m a Ford guy, but I wish they would fix the common issues. Especially the phasers and cam chain issues
@@jason91205 what symptoms were you getting from the bad throttle body?
@DoubleTap702 Mine went bad. Handheld said replace throttle body. Opened up old one and found that Ford went with plastic gears inside that wear down prematurely, which in turn will not open the butterfly.
Is this the same inatallation procedure with the 2.7l?
Is this pump for 2013 F150 XLT 3.5L V6 Ecoboost?
Anybody know the part number for the vacuum pump hose that attaches to it? The white locking ring looks really brittle and I want to have a backup when it probably breaks when I remove it to replace the vacuum pump. Thanks in advance.
How did you get the bolts out from the pump? Not enough clearance to pull them out.
Someone mentioned that they left one of the bolts in the pump, and put it back in before installing. I forget which one. I also read that the 2013-14 has less clearance to the firewall than the 2015 in this video.
Have you done the job yet? How did it go?
Thanks for sharing
Does anyone know what the line is that you remove before the bolts that’s connected to the vacuum pump? I broke the white clip. Any help is appreciated.
They sell those little white clips in pacs at any auto part store hope this helps
would this pump cause no vac to my turbos?
Awesome video! Need to do just what your showing. One question, I noticed the silicone was all the way around the gasket, Is that correct?
Richard irvin right, i wish he would've had just a few more words about that part. ha
It wont hurt to use gasket maker around the whole thing
Would this seal going bad make oil be on the passenger side of the oil pan near the drain plug? Just replaced my oil pan 5,000 miles ago and I have oil stains in my driveway, and can see the oil on the pan.
You find out what it was ?
Does it make sense that about the same time I started noticing the burning smell coming from the vents, I started noticing a sort of groaning feel/sound at slow speeds when turning/braking? Thanks to all for your comments/ideas/questions/answers.!!!! :-))
That is exactly what I'm experiencing. I've read elsewhere that the vacuum pump might be failing when you notice that "groaning". Did you ever resolve the problem with your truck?
@@markosborn1394
Mark, I ended up getting rid of the F-150 back in july. I did replace the vacuum pump, but that didn't seem to take care of the problem. I ended up replacing the valve cover on the right side, I believe. And that still didn't seem to take care of it. I would have probably ended up replacing the valve cover on the opposite side had I still had it. Wish I could offer more help. I did do the vacuum pump job myself but it was a miracle I got it swapped out because it was a job for small hands and somebody mighty flexible. 😋
Thanks anyway. Since we're talking about two problems (smell and the noise) did it not solve either one?
I have the same thing I was wondering if because the vacum pump is failing if the vacume actuated 4wd awe were not able to suck the awe causing it to drag in 4wd
This was the comment I was looking for. Having same problem(s). Smell and noise. Was hoping someone else said that this fixed both. I've never been able to solve my iwe noise. Really hoping this is it. Plan on replacing pump tomorrow
What if the gold piece tube that filters the oil came off I lost it is there a replacement for just that part or do I have to replace the whole new pump and buy another new one?
just buy a new pump
Will the brass looking piece just fall off if you move it wrong??
My mechanic just changed mine. Apparently he’s done a bunch but mine is the first one they’ve had the brass piece fall off inside the engine. After much time searching for it they found it in the oil drain passage on the block. They can’t get to it but say it won’t hurt anything.
I tried to replace mine but those 8mm screws are just way to tight and im no small man or weak at that and i felt i would strip the bolts so i stopped
Got 2 of 3 and the 3rd i think I stripped.
I have a 16 Expedition with the ecoboost. Just discovered today a P0016, P0017 (camshaft codes) P0299 (Turbo code) and a miss fire in cyclinder 4. A comment on FB recommend this part would that make swnse?
No. You very likely need cam phasors and/or a timing chain. If it were me, I would do both. How many miles on it?
@@DouBeeful we just broke 200,000 km on it
Anyone use the Dorman 904-858 Vacuum Pump for this?
All fun and games until that bottom bolt is rounded 😂
I think I may have one going bad on my 2016 EcoBoost. Do these make a knocking sound when they are going bad? Like tapping on the bottom of a plastic 5 gallon bucket?
Knocking sound could be your timing chain going
@@bradbury2007 it is definitely coming from near the firewall and not the front of the engine. Sounds like you tapping on the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket.
We had a truck making this noise and it was something in the valve cover not getting enough oil. Less than a week later, engine seized up
I like video got to do this on my 2014 eco 53000 miles wish video was more clear on silicone. Im gonna try this. Im not a mechanic can someone set me straight on silicone placement
put it in the same area as the original. Some say all the way around, but it should be thin so it doesn't effect clearances.
How did you get the top right bolt back in? It's been a big pain for me
You need to have that bolt already installed in the pump before placing the pump flush.
Did this effect anyone's motor at all? My brakes are bad and I'm about to change now.
I thought these Ford trucks vaccum pump for the brakes is located near the drivers headlight?
Never knew of a cam driven pump off the back of the head.....
What kind of silicon did you use? Or would gasket maker suffice?
He not only said what kind of silicone he uses in the video but he also showed it on camera. You may want to re-watch the video again so you can see it.
Hope this helps.
Is it risky to just change the seal? Seal is $5-$10 the pump at my local parts store is $125. How would I know what is the best choice? It's leaking oil and stinks the cab up with burnt oil smell.
If your brakes work really good just changed the seal.. mine has 197,000 and just started doing it.
What did you end up doing and how did it work ? Thanks.
I have 130k , I just changed the whole thing for a cost of 100
Would this cause the brake to lose fluid and pedal sink
No, this pump does not control brake fluid. If you lost fluid and the pedal is low, you popped a brake line somewhere
Can this part cause a rough idle? My truck (2015 F150 3.5EB) has had what I believed to be a misfire since the day I got it at 120k miles, but have had no luck fixing it with boots, properly gapped plugs, and cleaning MAF sensors.
Might be moisture in the intercooler. My 13 eb had this issue and drilling a peep hole helped.
Hey men can you make a video how change vacuum pump on 2014-2018 silverado
Ask and you shall receive.
m.ruclips.net/video/FRNXYmD30e8/видео.html
Aaron Hines oh you already have one 😁 cool men thanx 👍🏻
Thanx you some much for you videos 👍🏻
Will that make your engine knocking noise if I have a bad pump?
nope
How did you get pump back in place without wiping off the silicone
practice using the old one first.
Great video, how many miles did the truck have when it failed.
120,000 miles. Truck was a 2015
@@AaronHinesAuto dang i only have 45k on my 2015 2.7, love the videos please do some on the 2.7 when you can. Also when ever you do a video give the mileage is always interesting to know. Thanks again.
My 2016 has 197,000 and just started doing that the other day.
My 2015 210,000 miles. Just started.
130k 2013 for me
thanks,that helped a ton
Now I know what my local Ford dealer is charging me $1200 for. Must be a damn expensive little pump.
It's $120 or so
You are getting taken.
Does this affect the IWE? I have changed hubs, actuator, check valve and solenoid but still hear slight grind and feels like is in 4WD. 2013 eco boost 3.5.
Have you update on this? I believe it does because your iwe may have low vacuum pressure from the line and it’s causing the grinding sound. Have you replace pump yet?
you have to replace the vacuum lines. its not that hard replaced all the things you did as well
Hook it up to a vaccum gauge and see what vaccum is when running.
What is the brass pump parts comes off in side the motor ?
This just happened to me also. Brought it in to get changed. It fell off inside the engine. After much searching they found it lodged in the oil drain channel. They can’t get to it but say it won’t hurt anything. 🤷🏼♂️
I replaced the gasket and it kept leaking, then I bought the pump new and it is still leaking
Prob the valve cover
What does the vacuum pump do
Vacuum
At what mileage should the pump be changed
When it starts leaking
Hey guys i have a 14 3.5v6 with 61,000 miles on it and i get this nasty smell only when i start the car and it goes away after few minutes... could it be this pump?
My truck did the same thing. At first I was thinking the feral cats urinated on my engine. Took it to the dealer and it was this! Paid 441 bucks to get it replaced.
Mine caused my truck to loose boost pressure
I believe Ford has been doing something about this problem...laughing all the way to the bank.
It lasts 3 years and 36k didn't it?