Timestamps Two points of view: 1:17 Shock reposition for more gains: 2:27 Flex test: 6:42 Baseline Course runs: 10:31 Course run with reposition mod: 14:37 Mini Moab course runs: 17:32 Conclusion and final thoughts: 20:18
I needed this. I am about to do it to all my rigs. I am all about stock reconfiguring. Thanks for all the information on SCX24S. I am so happy when I find people who love SCX24S as much as I do. 😁
im from neither camps i just like rc crawlers...i have my deadbolt for about 3 days ... so my track is composed by main 6 stones with an S shape with diferent sizes but they all are aprox. between a melon and watermelon size and then i have smaller stones and small loose gravel to culminate the inital and final gaps btween the soil ant the top of the stone sort of a "ramp"... in stock form climbing the first rock was a nightmare it could climb but what a strugle ! once on top of the rocks it behaved meh ...i was about to sink the rocks onto the soil to be easy ...when i the algorithm showed me this video! and what do you know... my framed deadbolt it´s climbing those six rocks like if it was nothing, i mean NOTHING!!!!! IM IN SHOCK ! what? what kind of sorcery is this? this is like straight out of some harry potter shit!!! THE MORE YOU KNOW!
I angle/frame mount all my shocks. If angled properly, the linkage levers against the springs sitting the truck lower. On the stock deadbolt, swapping the battery and esc positions will keep the body from rolling back on climbs. These free mods alone will make more difference then almost anything you can buy, and are the best place to start upgrading.
@@trailwomanrc that’s fair. i have a deadbolt and i just found out the steep angle causes the motor side drive shaft linkage to rub against itself. figured i could just hold some sand paper there with it running to make more clearance. also may be time for some limiting straps. not sure if my front shocks are too angled or not. went with a 3d printed lower cg battery tray and moved the shock mount to the lower battery tray mount up front and it’s pretty angled but… preforms great. stock socks for now still… having a hard time finding replacement. thank you for the information!
wow 2 years ago. I am defiantly going to build a small indoor setup based on what you have going on, that just looks great, and yes I did find the build video.
Really enjoying all the scx24 content you are making! Just picked up my first and you’re channel has been a gold mine for leaning whats under the hood, especially for someone with very little r/c experience.
I'm a 44 yr old single man with no kids and plenty of time on my hands. I received my first RC last week. Ordered a Traxxas Slash 4wd. While looking for videos for it, I found this channel. I am in love with the content. I love my Slash but instead of buying upgrades, I pulled the trigger and ordered a SCX24 Deadbolt yesterday. I am so excited to get it and start modifying it. I can see a DIY realistic course consuming one of my spare bedrooms in the near future. Thanks for the content buddy. New subscriber!
And here I am a month after this post and I've picked up 5 more RCs. My 3 favorites so far are my UDR, Wraith Spawn 2.2 and of course my little Deadbolt. I plan on getting a 1/10 Deadbolt body to put overtop of my Wraith cage to have matching different scale sized crawlers. Thanks again for the videos Adam!
Another nice video Adam, well done! I like my long travel double barrel shocks mounted to the frame so far. Once I found the angle I liked it eliminated the jacked up look that I didn't care for. Now I have much more travel and articulation it seems. I really enjoy tinkering so experimenting with different mounting points is fun for me! Thanks again Adam, take care!!!
You make great, thorough videos & make things easy to understand. Did just the rear myself. Increased front & back by a tire. 3, 3 1/2 maybe. Thanks again!
Appreciate all the research and effort in this video 👍 I like the frame mount on a couple of my rigs. The vertical climbs are more difficult I’ve noticed too. But I think with a limit strap, you can get the best of both.
What a great workshop. And I was surprised by your answer too. I think watching both I would go for the articulation. You do have to choose different angles because of it but the ride seemed more realistic the way the buggy moved. Awesome video.
Thanks for showing the test it was so cool I have a deadbolt stock and it goes over everything I put in front of it just like a real truck. So fore right now I'm leaving it stock but I need some weight on the front so I'm filing some test with penny's on the wheels. Thanks again
Got it Yesterday. Scx24 Wrangler v3 Spektrum. All ready removed front bumper and trimmed the shell under grill and magnet. Put led's both sides of receiver under the front hood. Inside glows. I get it Now. I LOE THIS LITTLE GUY.
You sold me on the SCX24, I bought one for myself for Christmas. I also bought a Danchee Ridgerock. Those things are just loaded out of the box! I’d love to see you do a build on one of those monsters.
@@jamesmcnamara7484 oh man, that Danchee is my spirit animal. The articulation of that thing right out of the box is INSANE! I saw one in person for the first time a couple weeks ago and I cannot get it out of my head. I may buy one this weekend.
Fully agree. Sold me on the scx24 also. There were 3 brands that made the cut during my research for what I should buy. Adam's channel confirmed I needed the scx24. Next problem I had was choosing which of the 6 they offer. Lol
One correction on something you said. Angling the shocks gets you more vertical travel, although the shock itself doesn't have more travel. Geometry; shocks mounted vertically means a 1:1 relationship between shock movement and suspension travel. Angling the shocks away from vertical changes that ratio. Also, a spring will act softer because the suspension has more leverage against it.
I like the two camps explanation on shock locations. Then theres people like me that mount the front shocks to the bumper and the rear shocks to the bumper lol
I guess all things considered i would have to include the build budget. For myself i frame mount to gain flex but I also splash on brass upgrades down low. Brass axles, links, wheel weights and heavy rims. This counters the loss of L.C.G....Best of both worlds. If the budget won't stretch u could always carry a hex drive and relocate when and where required depending on the corse/obstacles. BUY IT, BUILD IT, BASH IT, BREAK IT, BENCH IT, WRENCH IT. RC for life❤......LETS GO! 💰🏎🚗🚒
thats one thing i was wondering about, would putting weigh down low counter the lift. thanks for the insight. im new to the 1/24 stuff. im digging this channel and the community.
The lift is an effect of having increased front suspension travel. When climbing, the weight transfer to the rear raises the front end. Limiting straps , can alleviate this. Pro rock crawlers (koh) often use a winch So they can adjust it as needed.
I just started and tried the relocated shocks on my SCX24 C10. I wasn't a fan of how's it behaved and put them back to factory location. If I could get some stiffer coils, I would frame mount the rears only with the new springs. More rear travel but a more stable front and balanced articulation. New shocks needed soon! LOL
I just did my first runs with my Deadbolt this week, and I was impressed with how well it does in stock form. Better than even some of my modded non_SCX24 crawlers. We have a pretty gnarly course, and I did end up breaking a dogbone in the front. I did feel that I lacked a bit of articulation on our course, so today I followed your guie on relocating the shocks. On my flat rock layout it did tremendously well, and better than stock shock setup. I have installed a bunch of other upgrades since I broke it the other day, so I will take it out on the tough course in the next couple of days, and try it both with stock and with relocated shocks. So far I really like the modified stock setup - and I'm usually not all about that flex. :D
I have tried the shock frame mounting on my 24’s & found for my course & the way I crawl the stock shock location works the best. I have tried Flexblades & have had mixed success with them. I think they work better if only on the back. I’m currently experimenting with putting some tiny springs inside the shocks. Loose a little travel but not much.
Flex extensions in the rear and stock fronts would be a great combo I imagine. For your experiment, are you keep the stock springs on and adding additional springs inside the body?
So far I’ve been running springs on my shocks except for my Warthog. I’m am now starting to experiment with no outer springs & small internal springs in the front to help keep the front down on vertical climbs.
Great content, Adam! Our Injora order just arrived and looking forward to upgrading the C10, JLU, & Gladiator. Up next will be a Deadbolt. Would love to hear your thoughts on a decked out rig over stock on the same indoor course. Personally I love the flex but also want to maintain or improve the performance of these rigs.
Thanks! That’s a good suggestion! The modded deadbolt, aka Snaggletooth, dominates the course to the point where it’s almost not enjoyable. That’s part of the reason I got the stock deadbolt was to feel that challenge again!
I just started messing with long travel shocks in the rear and internal spring on the front setup to pull the front suspension to the chassis and liking it so far, other than that tried longer travel in the front and just didn’t care for that chassis lift, so now I add travel to the rear only, but to each their own it’s all about personal preference.
Great video! I was surprise For Your last decision... I'm running shock to chassis, no spring, limiting straps in front and i'm happy with it. The soft spring do not work well on the shocks, so I saw You give a try with out them. And, why not. At least now i fell i don't waste My money. This stuff is great!
Thanks for watching! I was so surprised by how capable the deadbolt was out of the box and that led me to my decision to keep it stock. I've gotten great suggestions from the community for various types of mounting strategies. It's been great!
Might get a deadbolt soon. MY first 24 scale. Second RC. I replace the Controller an esc with 30a and move shocks i'll be set ? Frame mount the rear, stock mount the front. hehe weight on it too
I am about the flex as well and have been chasing grip and stability so I have long single body shocks with some damping added and lots of weight down low. My crawl courses at home don't have any long climbs and my setups are just fun to push. I ended up with similar shock positions but mine are above the frame rails. Work for me... 👍
I’m looking forward to relocating to the frame rails on my fcx24 k5 because I’ve also trimmed the shocks for a lower ride so maybe CG won’t be a big concern.
This is a great channel I found! Do you recommend any better shocks that are slightly longer than stock? Ones iv tried raise the body due to stuff springs.
Thanks for watching! I like Powerhobby shocks. They're a good blend of performance and low cost. To get around the body lift, you can swap the long travel springs out for the stock shock springs. That brings your ride height back down but still allows for full travel.
Thank you for the test. I love my deadpool truck it's great stock but I want more out of it so I'm going To try something but don't know what your test was help full
I'm a little late to the convo here. But, what if you relocate the rears only and leave the fronts stock? Say only get a little extra flex and keep the nose down. I'm only asking because I just got one for my channel and have no direction for it yet.
I wonder if you add more weight to the front, it's actually a win win situation? since you get the extra articulation + limit the front lift when using frame mount
You need more alloy and brass in the front homie. Get on it! Haha. I have so much fun with my Deadbolt. It’s addictive 🤑🤪I have about $400 into my truck so far. 😛
did you ever try tower mounted fronts with chassis mounted rears or vice versa? wondering what that would do. maybe a slight inbetween? great video though, good info and testing :D
Injora now has 51mm Double-barrels for the SCX24. I was wondering if you had any suggestions as to how I can set them up for the best performance possible
To get better articulation for free than just frame mounting, take the springs off and you can cut the rear shock towers into flex blades. That way, you can probably get 4 tires.
If you put wheel weights in the front I know you will still have the body lift but would it keep the front and planted? Glad you made this video I was wondering if I should do that or not I just bought we'll wait for all four corners that helped a lot
Thanks for watching! I do think some good weight up front would help keep it planted. A good diff cover and steering knuckles would help a lot as they aren't rotating mass.
I notice on off road vehicles like atvs and polaris/kubota they have the shocks angling inward as if they were mounted coming out from the engine. So maybe angling does have effect
I LOVE YOUR MOAB COURSE, IM NEW TO THIS SO SORRY , BUT I BOUGHT THE DEADBOLT, LOVED IT BUT WANTED IT BETTER SO I ADDED AKK THE BRASS, THE BUMPER THE 53MM SHOCKS, A NEW BODY, THEN ADDED THE DEADBOLT INTERIOR, MODIFIED THE ROLL CAGE, BEAD LOCK WHEELS , TIRES, SERVO, AND IT STILL ROLLS OVER EASY? DO I NEED TO WIDEN THE TRACK LIKE THE GLADIATORS? OR DO I HAVE TOO MUCH ON TOP?
Have you done limiting straps? It sounds like you could use some width and some limiting straps. That should help with rolling over and flipping over backwards on hills.
What are your thoughts on leaving the front standard and back suspension on the frame? Would that stop the body lifting on uphill and still give you a little more flex than standard?
Ho, on my deadbolt i'm running for linka upgrade and stock shock mounted on the Towers without spring but with rubber banda. I'd line to have an advice for a batter sto ne setup
Noticing some front tire/shock rubbing in full turn for the front shocks and tires after this mod... Did you notice that too? Also while accelerating through a fully cranked turn on the flat ground my entire front chasse is lifting up a bit but only if Im cranked all the way left or right while making a turn.. sos haha
I see its been a year since you commented this, ever find a fix? I just did the mod as well to find the same issue, it rubs on the shocks bad enough in a full turn that it binds the front wheels completely. I am considering putting the front back to the stock position for now unless I find a workaround
Great video. I got a little bit of binding on my front drive shaft at full extension. I could hear clicking when the truck was off the ground at full extension. if it's not at full extension the clicking goes away. Anyone else found this?
Timestamps
Two points of view: 1:17
Shock reposition for more gains: 2:27
Flex test: 6:42
Baseline Course runs: 10:31
Course run with reposition mod: 14:37
Mini Moab course runs: 17:32
Conclusion and final thoughts: 20:18
I needed this. I am about to do it to all my rigs. I am all about stock reconfiguring. Thanks for all the information on SCX24S. I am so happy when I find people who love SCX24S as much as I do. 😁
im from neither camps i just like rc crawlers...i have my deadbolt for about 3 days ... so my track is composed by main 6 stones with an S shape with diferent sizes but they all are aprox. between a melon and watermelon size and then i have smaller stones and small loose gravel to culminate the inital and final gaps btween the soil ant the top of the stone sort of a "ramp"... in stock form climbing the first rock was a nightmare it could climb but what a strugle ! once on top of the rocks it behaved meh ...i was about to sink the rocks onto the soil to be easy ...when i the algorithm showed me this video! and what do you know... my framed deadbolt it´s climbing those six rocks like if it was nothing, i mean NOTHING!!!!! IM IN SHOCK ! what? what kind of sorcery is this?
this is like straight out of some harry potter shit!!! THE MORE YOU KNOW!
I angle/frame mount all my shocks. If angled properly, the linkage levers against the springs sitting the truck lower. On the stock deadbolt, swapping the battery and esc positions will keep the body from rolling back on climbs. These free mods alone will make more difference then almost anything you can buy, and are the best place to start upgrading.
Great advice about the battery and esc!
You know of any good videos on how to do this? I’m a total noob lol
what do you do when the “V” arm hits the front drive shaft? 😭
@@23stealer23 Not all SCX24 will chafe there. You can sand it down so it won't contact the driveshaft. Or mod it to a four link front.
@@trailwomanrc that’s fair. i have a deadbolt and i just found out the steep angle causes the motor side drive shaft linkage to rub against itself. figured i could just hold some sand paper there with it running to make more clearance. also may be time for some limiting straps. not sure if my front shocks are too angled or not. went with a 3d printed lower cg battery tray and moved the shock mount to the lower battery tray mount up front and it’s pretty angled but… preforms great. stock socks for now still… having a hard time finding replacement. thank you for the information!
wow 2 years ago. I am defiantly going to build a small indoor setup based on what you have going on, that just looks great, and yes I did find the build video.
Really enjoying all the scx24 content you are making! Just picked up my first and you’re channel has been a gold mine for leaning whats under the hood, especially for someone with very little r/c experience.
I'm glad you are enjoying the channel! Please let me know if there is anything else you would like to see featured!
I'm a 44 yr old single man with no kids and plenty of time on my hands. I received my first RC last week. Ordered a Traxxas Slash 4wd. While looking for videos for it, I found this channel. I am in love with the content. I love my Slash but instead of buying upgrades, I pulled the trigger and ordered a SCX24 Deadbolt yesterday. I am so excited to get it and start modifying it. I can see a DIY realistic course consuming one of my spare bedrooms in the near future. Thanks for the content buddy. New subscriber!
That's awesome Kris! Have fun with that deadbolt! These little things are a blast!
And here I am a month after this post and I've picked up 5 more RCs. My 3 favorites so far are my UDR, Wraith Spawn 2.2 and of course my little Deadbolt. I plan on getting a 1/10 Deadbolt body to put overtop of my Wraith cage to have matching different scale sized crawlers. Thanks again for the videos Adam!
I find a combination does well all around - front shocks in stock location and rear shocks frame mounted.
I was thinking this by the end of the video.
Another nice video Adam, well done! I like my long travel double barrel shocks mounted to the frame so far. Once I found the angle I liked it eliminated the jacked up look that I didn't care for. Now I have much more travel and articulation it seems. I really enjoy tinkering so experimenting with different mounting points is fun for me! Thanks again Adam, take care!!!
Thanks for watching! I too prefer the frame mounted shocks once there are some additional mods done to counteract the cons of frame mounting.
You make great, thorough videos & make things easy to understand. Did just the rear myself. Increased front & back by a tire. 3, 3 1/2 maybe. Thanks again!
Thank you, I appreciate that! Rear only is a good strategy
Appreciate all the research and effort in this video 👍
I like the frame mount on a couple of my rigs. The vertical climbs are more difficult I’ve noticed too. But I think with a limit strap, you can get the best of both.
Yes, agreed. And with some brass up front and down low, you can get the best of both worlds 👍🏻
@@CapeCrawlers you just use rubber bands for limiting strap? I’ve been thinking of trying that with the double barrels but idk
Yes I do. I just put up a RUclips short showing how I do it. It has worked well for me!
Try leaving the front shocks in stock location. This will limit the front up travel. Then move your rear shocks it’s a happy middle ground.
I like that approach. I've done something similar with the double barrel shocks. That setup works really good for climbing!
I only reposition mine on the back because you still get that flex and you can still climb verticals👍
I think so
What a great workshop. And I was surprised by your answer too. I think watching both I would go for the articulation. You do have to choose different angles because of it but the ride seemed more realistic the way the buggy moved. Awesome video.
Thanks for showing the test it was so cool I have a deadbolt stock and it goes over everything I put in front of it just like a real truck. So fore right now I'm leaving it stock but I need some weight on the front so I'm filing some test with penny's on the wheels. Thanks again
Thanks for watching! The deadbolt is amazing stock. With just a handful of mods it’s a little monster!
Got it Yesterday. Scx24 Wrangler v3 Spektrum. All ready removed front bumper and trimmed the shell under grill and magnet. Put led's both sides of receiver under the front hood. Inside glows. I get it Now. I LOE THIS LITTLE GUY.
Best RC crawler Chanel I have found!
Thank you! I appreciate that! Please let me know if there is anything else you would like to see on the channel!
You sold me on the SCX24, I bought one for myself for Christmas. I also bought a Danchee Ridgerock. Those things are just loaded out of the box! I’d love to see you do a build on one of those monsters.
@@jamesmcnamara7484 oh man, that Danchee is my spirit animal. The articulation of that thing right out of the box is INSANE! I saw one in person for the first time a couple weeks ago and I cannot get it out of my head. I may buy one this weekend.
Fully agree. Sold me on the scx24 also. There were 3 brands that made the cut during my research for what I should buy. Adam's channel confirmed I needed the scx24. Next problem I had was choosing which of the 6 they offer. Lol
One correction on something you said. Angling the shocks gets you more vertical travel, although the shock itself doesn't have more travel. Geometry; shocks mounted vertically means a 1:1 relationship between shock movement and suspension travel. Angling the shocks away from vertical changes that ratio.
Also, a spring will act softer because the suspension has more leverage against it.
I like the two camps explanation on shock locations. Then theres people like me that mount the front shocks to the bumper and the rear shocks to the bumper lol
To the bumper?! My head just exploded. I need to research this!
Alot of good info in the video. I think so far i like the stock location myself.
Thanks! The deadbolt does a great job in stock form; not a lot of need to mess with it right away!
I guess all things considered i would have to include the build budget. For myself i frame mount to gain flex but I also splash on brass upgrades down low. Brass axles, links, wheel weights and heavy rims. This counters the loss of L.C.G....Best of both worlds. If the budget won't stretch u could always carry a hex drive and relocate when and where required depending on the corse/obstacles. BUY IT, BUILD IT, BASH IT, BREAK IT, BENCH IT, WRENCH IT. RC for life❤......LETS GO! 💰🏎🚗🚒
Very true, the frame mount is a great budget friendly option. So are flex extensions. But you’ve got the right idea 💯💯
thats one thing i was wondering about, would putting weigh down low counter the lift. thanks for the insight. im new to the 1/24 stuff. im digging this channel and the community.
The lift is an effect of having increased front suspension travel. When climbing, the weight transfer to the rear raises the front end. Limiting straps , can alleviate this. Pro rock crawlers (koh) often use a winch So they can adjust it as needed.
Did this today to my chevy k5 and it worked great!! I can almost get mine on 4 wheels so close to 4
I just started and tried the relocated shocks on my SCX24 C10. I wasn't a fan of how's it behaved and put them back to factory location. If I could get some stiffer coils, I would frame mount the rears only with the new springs. More rear travel but a more stable front and balanced articulation. New shocks needed soon! LOL
I just did my first runs with my Deadbolt this week, and I was impressed with how well it does in stock form. Better than even some of my modded non_SCX24 crawlers. We have a pretty gnarly course, and I did end up breaking a dogbone in the front. I did feel that I lacked a bit of articulation on our course, so today I followed your guie on relocating the shocks. On my flat rock layout it did tremendously well, and better than stock shock setup.
I have installed a bunch of other upgrades since I broke it the other day, so I will take it out on the tough course in the next couple of days, and try it both with stock and with relocated shocks. So far I really like the modified stock setup - and I'm usually not all about that flex. :D
The deadbolt is a weapon! With just some simple bolt ons it is crazy capable. Have fun with the build!
I have tried the shock frame mounting on my 24’s & found for my course & the way I crawl the stock shock location works the best. I have tried Flexblades & have had mixed success with them. I think they work better if only on the back. I’m currently experimenting with putting some tiny springs inside the shocks. Loose a little travel but not much.
Flex extensions in the rear and stock fronts would be a great combo I imagine. For your experiment, are you keep the stock springs on and adding additional springs inside the body?
So far I’ve been running springs on my shocks except for my Warthog. I’m am now starting to experiment with no outer springs & small internal springs in the front to help keep the front down on vertical climbs.
Try front shocks in stock location, rears on the frame. Keeps some extra flex, keeps the front end from lifting!
Great suggestion!
rubber bands and you have no problem installing shocks on frsme
You can add travel without raising the vehicle. Droop set ups give a lower center of gravity while increasing how much the suspension can articulate.
Great content, Adam! Our Injora order just arrived and looking forward to upgrading the C10, JLU, & Gladiator. Up next will be a Deadbolt. Would love to hear your thoughts on a decked out rig over stock on the same indoor course. Personally I love the flex but also want to maintain or improve the performance of these rigs.
Thanks! That’s a good suggestion! The modded deadbolt, aka Snaggletooth, dominates the course to the point where it’s almost not enjoyable. That’s part of the reason I got the stock deadbolt was to feel that challenge again!
I just started messing with long travel shocks in the rear and internal spring on the front setup to pull the front suspension to the chassis and liking it so far, other than that tried longer travel in the front and just didn’t care for that chassis lift, so now I add travel to the rear only, but to each their own it’s all about personal preference.
Thats a great approach. I ran a very similar setup on our C10 for a while and it worked fantastic.
Thank you for this grate tutorial!
Great video! I was surprise For Your last decision... I'm running shock to chassis, no spring, limiting straps in front and i'm happy with it. The soft spring do not work well on the shocks, so I saw You give a try with out them. And, why not. At least now i fell i don't waste My money. This stuff is great!
Thanks for watching! I was so surprised by how capable the deadbolt was out of the box and that led me to my decision to keep it stock. I've gotten great suggestions from the community for various types of mounting strategies. It's been great!
Might get a deadbolt soon. MY first 24 scale. Second RC. I replace the Controller an esc with 30a and move shocks i'll be set ? Frame mount the rear, stock mount the front. hehe weight on it too
I am about the flex as well and have been chasing grip and stability so I have long single body shocks with some damping added and lots of weight down low. My crawl courses at home don't have any long climbs and my setups are just fun to push. I ended up with similar shock positions but mine are above the frame rails. Work for me... 👍
What shocks are you running?
@@CapeCrawlers HR 43mm upside down with a few drips of 200 inside, they have been good with lighter springs in the back
I’m looking forward to relocating to the frame rails on my fcx24 k5 because I’ve also trimmed the shocks for a lower ride so maybe CG won’t be a big concern.
This is a great channel I found! Do you recommend any better shocks that are slightly longer than stock? Ones iv tried raise the body due to stuff springs.
Thanks for watching! I like Powerhobby shocks. They're a good blend of performance and low cost. To get around the body lift, you can swap the long travel springs out for the stock shock springs. That brings your ride height back down but still allows for full travel.
That was a high five 😁👍👍
Thank you!
Hello from southeast alaska thanks for all the good info bro
Thanks friend! I hope the fishing is good up there!
@@CapeCrawlers yeah it is going well. My friend brought me some halibut. So I'm working on that today
Thank you for the test. I love my deadpool truck it's great stock but I want more out of it so I'm going
To try something but don't know what your test was help full
Thanks for watching!
I'm a little late to the convo here. But, what if you relocate the rears only and leave the fronts stock? Say only get a little extra flex and keep the nose down. I'm only asking because I just got one for my channel and have no direction for it yet.
*I Want to tell you that your video are Wonderful and so amazing 👍 Awesome Cars 😍 : Your video is very creative.*
Thank you! I appreciate that
Would this be similar to the bronco too? Thank you !! Appreciate all the content! Just got a gladiator and a bronco :)
I flipped my shock mounts and raised the rear end and now I'm top heavy as hell...I'm not giving up tho :)
Keep tinkering, thats the best part!
I wonder if you add more weight to the front, it's actually a win win situation? since you get the extra articulation + limit the front lift when using frame mount
Shocks down, chassis up, that's the way we like to truck!
Stock shocks with brass knuckles and hex extenders then choose tires for the terrain your running .
That's a simple and winning recipe right there!
Yessir! I’m gonna put a steering servo in my bag too
You need more alloy and brass in the front homie. Get on it! Haha. I have so much fun with my Deadbolt. It’s addictive 🤑🤪I have about $400 into my truck so far. 😛
Facts! I’m going to attempt to keep this one stock for a bit so I can do some benchmark testing videos! We’ll see how long that lasts…
@@CapeCrawlers I love you’re last sentence 😂
did you ever try tower mounted fronts with chassis mounted rears or vice versa? wondering what that would do. maybe a slight inbetween? great video though, good info and testing :D
Yes I did, and it's a great setup! I ran that for a while before I converted the deadbolt over to the Nexxspeed chassis. Thanks for watching!
Injora now has 51mm Double-barrels for the SCX24. I was wondering if you had any suggestions as to how I can set them up for the best performance possible
I would set them up like any of the other double barrels: no springs, upside down, take one o-ring out of the upper mounting positon
To get better articulation for free than just frame mounting, take the springs off and you can cut the rear shock towers into flex blades. That way, you can probably get 4 tires.
Great tips! Especially the show tower mod. I'm going to have to try that.
If you put wheel weights in the front I know you will still have the body lift but would it keep the front and planted? Glad you made this video I was wondering if I should do that or not I just bought we'll wait for all four corners that helped a lot
Thanks for watching! I do think some good weight up front would help keep it planted. A good diff cover and steering knuckles would help a lot as they aren't rotating mass.
@@CapeCrawlers getting scientific and all that I like it at the end of the day wouldn't rotating Mass help keep it on forward over that edge
It would help plant it, but it would also detract from the throttle / brake response.
I notice on off road vehicles like atvs and polaris/kubota they have the shocks angling inward as if they were mounted coming out from the engine. So maybe angling does have effect
Inboard style right? I've seen someone selling an inboard kit for these on Etsy but I've never tried it. Maybe I should!
Just picked up a deadbolt for $100 on Friday. So many ideas for this thing.
Glad you caught the sale! Have fun!
Where is the sale?
@@jasonbecker4997 tower hobbies
Got one for 100 on Amazon just before they stopped carrying them
Wow nice review man you are for real i knoe it hurt loolol keep it up
Thanks for watching!
Hi do you recommend the hot racing long travel shocks?
I run the hot racing on a couple of my rigs and I love them! Super smooth operations and tons of travel 💪🏻
I LOVE YOUR MOAB COURSE, IM NEW TO THIS SO SORRY , BUT I BOUGHT THE DEADBOLT, LOVED IT BUT WANTED IT BETTER SO I ADDED AKK THE BRASS, THE BUMPER THE 53MM SHOCKS, A NEW BODY, THEN ADDED THE DEADBOLT INTERIOR, MODIFIED THE ROLL CAGE, BEAD LOCK WHEELS , TIRES, SERVO, AND IT STILL ROLLS OVER EASY? DO I NEED TO WIDEN THE TRACK LIKE THE GLADIATORS? OR DO I HAVE TOO MUCH ON TOP?
Have you done limiting straps? It sounds like you could use some width and some limiting straps. That should help with rolling over and flipping over backwards on hills.
Greasing your shocks lightly will help dampen body roll too
What are your thoughts on leaving the front standard and back suspension on the frame? Would that stop the body lifting on uphill and still give you a little more flex than standard?
I think that is an excellent middle ground and it is the setup I am currently running on this deadbolt as we speak!
Maybe try a strap down with rubberties to lowering the chassis to the axels.
Yep, great idea! I use that on my rigs with long shocks, but it's valuable here as well.
Shock blades for the win😂
It almost seems like doing just the rear would be more helpful so that you avoid the front end spring skyward on climbs
Yep, the hybrid approach with the rear shock relocation seems to be the way to go.
I wonder how limiting straps would do in the front or if you relocated rear only.
I ended up relocating the rear only. I think that's the best setup personally.
Ho, on my deadbolt i'm running for linka upgrade and stock shock mounted on the Towers without spring but with rubber banda. I'd line to have an advice for a batter sto ne setup
Love your vids!
Thanks for watching!
Noticing some front tire/shock rubbing in full turn for the front shocks and tires after this mod... Did you notice that too? Also while accelerating through a fully cranked turn on the flat ground my entire front chasse is lifting up a bit but only if Im cranked all the way left or right while making a turn.. sos haha
I didn't notice the rub, but I also put small tires on it. The torque twist I do get occasionally though
I see its been a year since you commented this, ever find a fix? I just did the mod as well to find the same issue, it rubs on the shocks bad enough in a full turn that it binds the front wheels completely. I am considering putting the front back to the stock position for now unless I find a workaround
I only moved the rear shock tower forward and kept the shocks on the shock tower
I think that's the best setup
Hi thanks
Do you have a fb? Or a page people can ask for help? I just put together my deadbolt and something is definitely not right and I can't figure it out
No Facebook (yet), but you can always email me at capecrawlersrc@gmail.com
I tried emailing you and it says the email failed
Great video. I got a little bit of binding on my front drive shaft at full extension. I could hear clicking when the truck was off the ground at full extension. if it's not at full extension the clicking goes away. Anyone else found this?
Are you running stock shocks and driveshaft?
@@CapeCrawlers yes
Teach me more about articulation and flex please good sir
Check this out: ruclips.net/video/7vhSdCV4zbw/видео.html
My shock setup video has some good tips too
What happens if you leave the front shocks in stock position but frame mount tear.
That is the optimal setup I feel!
whenever i mount my front ones there and they fully extend my driveshaft slides out of each other. how do i fix that?
i have a gladiator*
Sounds like you need some limiting straps. Check this out: ruclips.net/user/shorts2cFlJfdcZj8?feature=share