So I've been using walk back tune for several years now. The way I learned is you shoot at 20 with the 20 yard pin then depending on you target height you move back to 40 and shoot again using 20 yard pin at the same dot. If your rest is right the arrows will be in a vertical line. Using multiple pins you could get a false positive by your pins not being level. At this point you can verify that your sights are level if your 30, 40, 50 yard pins impact on target. Good video!
Another reason why you put out the best content I’ve been chasing my arrows at 50&60 with my sights instead of my rest I tried it tonight and it freaking works thanks buddy👊
Can't tell you how much walk back tuning has helped me. practice with field tips, screwed the broad heads on and everything would turn to shit.LOL then I discovered this technique and 50-60 yards is no problem, I hunt pretty thick woods so most of my shots are inside of 30. but having that confidence that you can make any shot is huge. And the best part is i'm not shooting expendables anymore. Great comment it's like having fletching on the front of your arrow never heard that before but it's so true.
This is great info I am going to try. I’ve been fighting this left problem and no one has ever mentioned walk back tune the rest. Makes complete sense as soon as I heard it. Thank you
Great content always chased my arrows with site after paper tune figured I was good. Today tried your method of walk back tuning results were amazing. Thanks for all the great videos
Great vid guys and good explanations, really helpful for understanding. We shoot a LOT of 3D (ASA) and after the initial paper tuning, we NEVER go back to paper. It's just a starting point. Making those micro adjustments to your rest as you increase distance rally dials in your setup.
Gosh day I love your show 💓 I just literally just learn something new I have been sighting my bow all wrong for many many years Thanks for all this great info
Walk back tune is an extremely useful tool as well as paper tune with a bareshaft. A bareshaft will really expose your rest flaws, BUT is can also expose the flaws of the shooter as well.
There's nothing like paper tuning your bow, feeling good about yourself, shootin' dimes at 20 with field points, then you undo it all when you screw the broadheads on...I still have hair left on my head for some unknown reason. 😀
Dude this video just saved me from burning down my shop I’ve been messing with this for 2 weeks I didn’t l know why My groups went 5 inches left at 70 but good groups at 60
I utilize walk back tuning but when I go to 30 or 40 or further and have to make a rest adjustment, I then go back to 5 yards and redo my sight. Then once my sightings back I move back to 40 yards and go again
The arrow seldom lies but hunters often do lol. Don’t forget to level (2nd/3rd axis) for adjustable sights can cause the same thing to happen. Thank you for the video guys great info as usual.
Good information on the tuning I noticed a lot of PSE merch, is it just sponsorship or is PSE have any new advantages over Hoyt? As always I have followed your films on the book on crow killer ive got to pick up the book to add to my library great stuff , the fur trade years are a fascinating period in our country, for just a short time early 20’s to the late 40’s 1800’s that is , I honestly do not think without it there would not been westward expansion in this country some would say that these men were savages , it was a savage world thank you so much for bringing it to us, as always stay Gritty
Id rather paper tune with a bare shaft. Or just bare shaft tune in foam target. Shoot a fletched then a bare shaft in foam. Walk back has never worked for me. I'm sure it has for others. Awesome video though!
Great vid with good instruction - examples of what you’re fixing along with how. I no longer paper tune at all. Bareshaft nock tune, fletch em up, walk back tune. Paper is wasted effort. (And as you’ve mentioned, nock tune first even if you buy prefletched. Works like a champ.) SEPTEMBER IS ALMOST HERE!
Do you guys use the 30/40/50 etc yard pin when walking back? I’ve always done it at 20 yards (sighted in good) walk back to 30/40/50 etc, but still using my 20 yard pin. If left or right I’ll adjust the rest
Works the exact same, but using your other pins 30 40 50 if your second axis is off or your pins aren't aligned it won't be as accurate to the eye. So yep use your 20 pin with the walk back
The most accurate way to adjust is to shoot an arrow without feathers.I can shoot from 30m with such an arrow and there are people who shoot from 50 and 60m.To shoot like this, you need to adjust your bow to your shooting technique and another shooter will not be able to repeat it because he holds the bow differently. Something like this.
So you'd recommend nock tuning the broadheads first before walk back tuning? What if you're practicing with field tips? Wouldn't it be better to get the rest tuned before worrying about arrows? I need to do this 100%. Just want to be positive I'm following the correct order.
Correct. I would paper tune, which is a great starting point, nock tune, then walk back tune. You can walk back tune just as easy with your field tips and I would prefer that. Get everything as close to perfect before you throw the broadheads on. Thanks for tuning in. Don't hesitate if you have any other questions.
Once I know my arrows are flying out of the bow really well and I’m consistently hitting left or right at different distances, then I will move the sight.
seems like paper is a waist of time if in paper im perfect and also at 20 but then at 30 40 im left and I move my rest to get it then its gonna be off in paper....
You can reference an old Archery Talk video, Bow Basics - Quick Tuning Your Bow. ruclips.net/video/f25Wr1EULRg/видео.html. This has been a good starting point for me. I'm not so concerned with a perfect bullet hole when shooting through paper. I usually start by shooting at an electrical tape vertical line at 10, 20 and 30 yards (using the 20 yard pin) and finish shooting at a duct tape vertical line at 80, 90 and 100 yards. This gets the center shot pretty dialed for how I shoot my bow. It would be pretty interesting to see if there is any difference when using a Hooter Shooter.
So I've been using walk back tune for several years now. The way I learned is you shoot at 20 with the 20 yard pin then depending on you target height you move back to 40 and shoot again using 20 yard pin at the same dot. If your rest is right the arrows will be in a vertical line. Using multiple pins you could get a false positive by your pins not being level. At this point you can verify that your sights are level if your 30, 40, 50 yard pins impact on target.
Good video!
Another reason why you put out the best content I’ve been chasing my arrows at 50&60 with my sights instead of my rest I tried it tonight and it freaking works thanks buddy👊
Can't tell you how much walk back tuning has helped me. practice with field tips, screwed the broad heads on and everything would turn to shit.LOL then I discovered this technique and 50-60 yards is no problem, I hunt pretty thick woods so most of my shots are inside of 30. but having that confidence that you can make any shot is huge. And the best part is i'm not shooting expendables anymore. Great comment it's like having fletching on the front of your arrow never heard that before but it's so true.
This is great info I am going to try. I’ve been fighting this left problem and no one has ever mentioned walk back tune the rest. Makes complete sense as soon as I heard it. Thank you
best way I've herd it explained thankyou. 🏹🏹🤘🤘
This video was so helpful, I was having this issue just the other day and I couldn’t figure out what was going on 😅
You guys just blew my mind. This is my entire life.
I have never done walk back tuning, but I will now. Great tip guys!
Great content always chased my arrows with site after paper tune figured I was good. Today tried your method of walk back tuning results were amazing. Thanks for all the great videos
Great vid guys and good explanations, really helpful for understanding. We shoot a LOT of 3D (ASA) and after the initial paper tuning, we NEVER go back to paper. It's just a starting point. Making those micro adjustments to your rest as you increase distance rally dials in your setup.
Going to try this when I get home from work. Nothing like last minute tuning when I leave for Idaho this coming Wednesday 😃 Love your content!
Gosh day I love your show 💓
I just literally just learn something new I have been sighting my bow all wrong for many many years
Thanks for all this great info
Thanks for all the great advice 👍🏻 stay gritty
Awesome information thanks guys
Walk back tune is an extremely useful tool as well as paper tune with a bareshaft. A bareshaft will really expose your rest flaws, BUT is can also expose the flaws of the shooter as well.
There's nothing like paper tuning your bow, feeling good about yourself, shootin' dimes at 20 with field points, then you undo it all when you screw the broadheads on...I still have hair left on my head for some unknown reason. 😀
Dude this video just saved me from burning down my shop I’ve been messing with this for 2 weeks I didn’t l know why My groups went 5 inches left at 70 but good groups at 60
I utilize walk back tuning but when I go to 30 or 40 or further and have to make a rest adjustment, I then go back to 5 yards and redo my sight.
Then once my sightings back I move back to 40 yards and go again
The arrow seldom lies but hunters often do lol. Don’t forget to level (2nd/3rd axis) for adjustable sights can cause the same thing to happen. Thank you for the video guys great info as usual.
Good video, all these gritty coupon codes but yet your own gritty store needs restocked! I need a gritty hat!
Good information on the tuning I noticed a lot of PSE merch, is it just sponsorship or is PSE have any new advantages over Hoyt? As always I have followed your films on the book on crow killer ive got to pick up the book to add to my library great stuff , the fur trade years are a fascinating period in our country, for just a short time early 20’s to the late 40’s 1800’s that is , I honestly do not think without it there would not been westward expansion in this country some would say that these men were savages , it was a savage world thank you so much for bringing it to us, as always stay Gritty
Thanx
Id rather paper tune with a bare shaft. Or just bare shaft tune in foam target. Shoot a fletched then a bare shaft in foam. Walk back has never worked for me. I'm sure it has for others. Awesome video though!
Great vid with good instruction - examples of what you’re fixing along with how. I no longer paper tune at all. Bareshaft nock tune, fletch em up, walk back tune. Paper is wasted effort. (And as you’ve mentioned, nock tune first even if you buy prefletched. Works like a champ.) SEPTEMBER IS ALMOST HERE!
Good luck to you this fall.
Many thanks, I’ll take all I can summon. A Wyoming general elk tag is gold these days!
Lots of variance in my shots…. I need all the tuning 😂
Do you guys use the 30/40/50 etc yard pin when walking back?
I’ve always done it at 20 yards (sighted in good) walk back to 30/40/50 etc, but still using my 20 yard pin. If left or right I’ll adjust the rest
Works the exact same, but using your other pins 30 40 50 if your second axis is off or your pins aren't aligned it won't be as accurate to the eye.
So yep use your 20 pin with the walk back
@11:32
The most accurate way to adjust is to shoot an arrow without feathers.I can shoot from 30m with such an arrow and there are people who shoot from 50 and 60m.To shoot like this, you need to adjust your bow to your shooting technique and another shooter will not be able to repeat it because he holds the bow differently. Something like this.
So you'd recommend nock tuning the broadheads first before walk back tuning? What if you're practicing with field tips? Wouldn't it be better to get the rest tuned before worrying about arrows? I need to do this 100%. Just want to be positive I'm following the correct order.
Correct. I would paper tune, which is a great starting point, nock tune, then walk back tune. You can walk back tune just as easy with your field tips and I would prefer that. Get everything as close to perfect before you throw the broadheads on. Thanks for tuning in. Don't hesitate if you have any other questions.
When do you move the arrow rest vs your sight window to just for left and right?
Once I know my arrows are flying out of the bow really well and I’m consistently hitting left or right at different distances, then I will move the sight.
I personally prefer this over paper tuning these days
Nocked tuned; check. Walk back tuned; check!.
seems like paper is a waist of time if in paper im perfect and also at 20 but then at 30 40 im left and I move my rest to get it then its gonna be off in paper....
You can reference an old Archery Talk video, Bow Basics - Quick Tuning Your Bow. ruclips.net/video/f25Wr1EULRg/видео.html. This has been a good starting point for me. I'm not so concerned with a perfect bullet hole when shooting through paper. I usually start by shooting at an electrical tape vertical line at 10, 20 and 30 yards (using the 20 yard pin) and finish shooting at a duct tape vertical line at 80, 90 and 100 yards. This gets the center shot pretty dialed for how I shoot my bow. It would be pretty interesting to see if there is any difference when using a Hooter Shooter.
🎯what’s up? 🏹
Great video but let your guest talk a little.
If you’re dead on at 20 and “18” inches off at 50…..that’s not your rest. Lol😅. 18 inches?
FTA,
This is witch craft....
FTW?