Im in the middle of fixing up my tinny. I had 36 holes in it. The previous guy had used pop rivets and stainless screws. The problem with electrosis is it's caused when dissimilar metals conduct when water gets between them. Or an electric cable earths into the hull not the battery. Ive used jb weld. Then coated the entire inside of the hull with penetrol aluminum. Penetrol impregnates the aluminium. It dries out moisture which causes the rust/corrosion. Nyalic ect is great on a boat from new. But if you have corrosion it will just cover it. I took my boat out...16 years old... out and no leaks from the repairs..yet. Another thing to do is buy Tef Gel and put it on all screws you use on your boat. It forms a barrier between the screw and boat. Also..if you have a carpetted floor and electrosis take up the floor and treat it. My mate had a loose wire earth into his hull. It reacted with the salt water between the hull and the carpet. Always wash down and remove any sinkers, hooks, swivels any foriegn metal.
36 holes, oh man that must have been a project. That Penetrol sounds very interested, I'll take a look into that product. When using stainless into aluminum I try to coat the screw and area in silicone as a barrier, I'll also look into the Tef Gel as well. Corrosion is such a nasty thing to deal with and 100% should be avoided at all costs.
Just curious to know if you considered applying epoxy to the sides of the boat? Seems there are rivets there that are under water too. I would want to apply at least 3 or 4 inches of epoxy there, especially after going through all that prep work. Great video, nice job!
You could definitely wrap it around, I chose not to so you didn't see it. It tends to be rivets on the bottom that leak, I haven't dealt with any side rivets leaking to warrant wrapping the epoxy that far myself.
You only get 30 minutes once it's mixed. I used three of those plastic measuring cup containers to do both sides, the bottom and the transom on my little 8 ft. wooden boat. It's plenty thick. It's hard to push around with a paint brush. I can't believe people can move it with a roller. Between the 6 minute mixing of each container and pushing the crap around with a chip brush, my hands are sore. Glad that's done!
I just used fasco steelflex on a boat , it looks like the goop "coat it "is easier to apply . I couldn`t get a brush to do anything , did most of the boat with a squeegee . I like the dark grey color of the goop ,it looks pretty even . If i do another boat I will give the goop a try.
So i just did my dirst coat and wasnt able to finish the whole boat i just ordered another can im probably gonna coat ovee some of the firsr coat do inhave to prep it again or will it stick just fine
Thanks for the great video! Ive seen how people just fix only the leaks, I love how you put the coat on the whole bottom. Have you noticed the coat you put on affecting the ride of the boat on the water?? Thanks!
To fill in dents how do you think coat it would hold up? I have my 16' mod v sanded down with 80 grit so it's rough and I wanna do a gloss black but I want to get rid of all the small dents I feel like bondo won't hold up due to flexing but I figured coat it or gluv-it would hold well and would be able to be sanded down evenly what do you think?
The problem would be applying it to vertical surfaces, coat-it would probably work a little better but gluv-it by design is very thin and runs. Flat surfaces either one would level would great, but for dents on the sidewalls bondo might be a better option.
@mvboutdoors thanks bud. I might do a test and I'll let you know with flexing and such how they work out. Doing all this work having little dents on a finish project will drive me crazy because there's no story behind them.
@@imnotwatching1 I know how you feel, I used to get really irked over having such a clean looking boat and then some random dents. I just have to remind myself that the dents are under the water line lol
Mine wasn't completely setup the next morning (13 hours) but by the end of the day (it's 6 pm now) it's very hard. I did a few touch ups to make sure I never have a leak. It's looks like it's at least 1/32 of an inch thick everywhere on the boat, so I should be good to go, I'm going to let it sit for atleast 3 days to make sure it's supper hard.
I got a 14ft Jon boat. Will the 2lb kit be enough? Can you go over existing paint? I’ve stripped most of it off but there’s still a few small thin spots
So Im looking at a 16' Sea Nymph, basically the same boat. How did you flip it to paint the bottom, given the 600+ pound weight? Great build, looking to duplicate much.
I guess I only ordered a small can Wich won’t be enough for the whole bottom can I just do the rivits and what extra it covers ? Do I need to do the inside rivits or any side rivits back etc or just bottom ?
If you're only looking to seal up the boat sure you can do just the rivets. You can do both the interior and exterior, just mix small amounts so you don't waste any.
2 questions because i am in the process of doing the same stuff just on a bigger boat 1 how come you didn't just go over the seams and the rivets instead of coating the entire bottom? and 2 is if you were painting the whole boat anyway was it necessary to tape the boat? i am not bashing or anything i truly and trying to learn i have never done boat repair until now.
The bottom coating provides protection to the entire hull in addition to sealing leaks/rivets. For example beaching the boat, etc. You certainly could only apply to rivets/seams if that's your only goal. As for taping, epoxy is thick and mildly textured. Even when you paint over it you'll see where the epoxy is. Taping it off gives you a nice clean edge that is much less apparent.
Great video! I used this on my boat and I wanted to go up the side 3 or 4 inches. Unfortunately when I did it, it ran some and is quite uneven in areas. Now that it is set, do you think I could add a couple inches more a bit thinner to square it up? Or do you know of a way to remove some to square it up? I’m not completely happy with how uneven it is and it will bother me if I don’t do something. Any recommendations on primer to use for the whole boat before I paint?
I've used this marine primer a couple times now and it's worked out well: amzn.to/3i3Xjj8 For the runs, get yourself a sander with some 80grit and smooth it down then you can add a coat on top and it will look smooth. Any drips/runs are going to show through another layer on top.
Have you ever used a totalpaint product coatit epoxy?? Just wondering if the total paint would accept the coat it epoxy without peeling over time Thanks ..
I have painted over Coat-It and it holds paint great. You have to make sure to prep it properly. I did a video here for how to prep epoxy before painting: ruclips.net/video/5SiuLqZ1k9w/видео.html
@@mvboutdoors yes I’ve watched that video a few times as I’m getting ready to paint my boat . Love your videos by the way, they’re very thorough. 👍🏼 But I’m not using rustoleum. I went with a product called “totalboat” paint .. It’s pretty expensive per gallon .. Just curious if you’ve ever work with that product. And what were the results after painting over the coat-epoxy.. thanks
Can this be used inside rather then the bottom like you would Gluvit .I’m in Canada and Gluvit is $120 plus where as i just bought coat it on Amazon on sale for $75
Thank you. It has some thin spots but not where It was leaking..... If I touch them up I won't have enough for the inside and money doesn't allow me to get another tub or GLuv-it ... Thanks for always helping
I’ve got crack on the bottom left corner of the transom. Previous owner tried to patch with jb weld. Still leaks got any suggestions? Thank for all the info it’s a big help!
@@_its80_ For me I would get it welded, it's the only thing that will last long term. If you want a temp fix, drill the ends of the crack so it doesn't expand and fill it with epoxy/sealant.
Water spots are always an issue with black finishes but they wipe away easy enough. Much better than a white color like my last where it would stain up to the waterline everytime it was taken out.
@@mvboutdoors thanks for the quick reply. Love your channel too BTW. I'm building the same 1648 at the moment. Just got it stripped and ready for the coat it bottom coat. Got a little nervous on the mixed reviews of black paint. Guess it can go either way with any colors also. Just did not want to follow the trend of camo.
Yes this a bottom coating, all bottom coatings are epoxy sealers. Yes you can and should paint over it, paint protects epoxy from UV (not that it will get much exposure on the underside.) I did just that in the next couple videos if you wanted to see the process.
Good job Muscles!!! Nice and slow!!! I'd probably end up sanding down to bare aluminum, but like you said, if the factory paint is still good, you should be alright. How did you pick that brand over the "others?"
Haha those boats are a lot heavier than you think, or at least awkwardly shaped! I used Steelflex on the last boat bottom and while it was definitely slick it was such a pain to apply. I ended up using coat-it for sealing up some other bolts and the transom and I loved how it worked. It's also meant for boat bottom, about half the price and goes on much easier. Seemed like a no brainer.
What makes gator glide or super sluck any different from this one? Aren’t they all epoxy coatings? I also ready you have to paint this stuff because its not uv resistant
Yes, they are all epoxy coatings with different mixes of additives to perform differently. Most epoxies will last longer if UV protected via paint but only some manufacturers put it on the label. Gator Glide / Super Slick have glossifiers and additives for slickness built into them. Coat-it has kevlar to make it more durable/abrasion resistant which I feel works great for a boat bottom but it does not have slickness additives. That doesn't mean it won't be smooth or any slower on the water. Slickness additives are less useful for boats that won't be skating over grass/logs like an airboat/mud boat would. Hope that helps!
Coat it is supposed to be mixed by weight , not by volume so mixing cup calibrations are useless. You need to use a small scale to calibrate adding the hardener.
After using this product and 2 separate coats......never again. It does work and is difficult compared to other products like aluminium Hawk which I have used and works the same but much much better.
@@mvboutdoors That's a good price. Good thing the title issue worked out for you. You should do a detailed cost analysis video on your boat. I'm sure a lot of people are interested to know how much something like this costs.
Can you apply this while the boat is right side up? I just got a new engine added to my Aluma weld 1650. I dont want to take the motor and the controls off.
Coat-it would work well for applying from underneath. Something like Gluvit would be too loose and drip off but this sets up really quick. You may want to do it in smaller mixes and give the epoxy a little extra time to cook before applying so its nice and thick.
Im in the middle of fixing up my tinny. I had 36 holes in it. The previous guy had used pop rivets and stainless screws.
The problem with electrosis is it's caused when dissimilar metals conduct when water gets between them. Or an electric cable earths into the hull not the battery.
Ive used jb weld. Then coated the entire inside of the hull with penetrol aluminum.
Penetrol impregnates the aluminium. It dries out moisture which causes the rust/corrosion.
Nyalic ect is great on a boat from new. But if you have corrosion it will just cover it.
I took my boat out...16 years old... out and no leaks from the repairs..yet.
Another thing to do is buy Tef Gel and put it on all screws you use on your boat. It forms a barrier between the screw and boat.
Also..if you have a carpetted floor and electrosis take up the floor and treat it. My mate had a loose wire earth into his hull. It reacted with the salt water between the hull and the carpet.
Always wash down and remove any sinkers, hooks, swivels any foriegn metal.
36 holes, oh man that must have been a project. That Penetrol sounds very interested, I'll take a look into that product. When using stainless into aluminum I try to coat the screw and area in silicone as a barrier, I'll also look into the Tef Gel as well. Corrosion is such a nasty thing to deal with and 100% should be avoided at all costs.
Great paint prep!! The secret to a good paint job is good prep.
Just curious to know if you considered applying epoxy to the sides of the boat? Seems there are rivets there that are under water too. I would want to apply at least 3 or 4 inches of epoxy there, especially after going through all that prep work. Great video, nice job!
You could definitely wrap it around, I chose not to so you didn't see it. It tends to be rivets on the bottom that leak, I haven't dealt with any side rivets leaking to warrant wrapping the epoxy that far myself.
Excellent tip on mixing the epoxy
Can’t wait to see the finish project .. if it’s something like the last build this one should b more epic
Looks like you have this under control. Excellent !!!!!!
You only get 30 minutes once it's mixed. I used three of those plastic measuring cup containers to do both sides, the bottom and the transom on my little 8 ft. wooden boat. It's plenty thick. It's hard to push around with a paint brush. I can't believe people can move it with a roller. Between the 6 minute mixing of each container and pushing the crap around with a chip brush, my hands are sore. Glad that's done!
I was whooped by the time I finished, It really takes a lot out of you!
I just used fasco steelflex on a boat , it looks like the goop "coat it "is easier to apply . I couldn`t get a brush to do anything , did most of the boat with a squeegee . I like the dark grey color of the goop ,it looks pretty even . If i do another boat I will give the goop a try.
For sure, coat-it was so much easier to work with!
So i just did my dirst coat and wasnt able to finish the whole boat i just ordered another can im probably gonna coat ovee some of the firsr coat do inhave to prep it again or will it stick just fine
I would clean it with some dawn soap, dry it then give it a light scuff anywhere you are overlapping.
Does it leave slick finish for bottom surface ...less resistance when flowing in water?
Yes, it's a very smooth surface. It's epoxy so it has that glassy feel. It's not as slick as gatorglide for example but its stiil very smooth.
Thanks for the great video! Ive seen how people just fix only the leaks, I love how you put the coat on the whole bottom. Have you noticed the coat you put on affecting the ride of the boat on the water?? Thanks!
There were no negative impacts for coating the entire bottom. I also painted over it as well. I love coat-it, great product for a fair price.
@@mvboutdoors Awesome, thanks again!
To fill in dents how do you think coat it would hold up? I have my 16' mod v sanded down with 80 grit so it's rough and I wanna do a gloss black but I want to get rid of all the small dents I feel like bondo won't hold up due to flexing but I figured coat it or gluv-it would hold well and would be able to be sanded down evenly what do you think?
The problem would be applying it to vertical surfaces, coat-it would probably work a little better but gluv-it by design is very thin and runs. Flat surfaces either one would level would great, but for dents on the sidewalls bondo might be a better option.
@mvboutdoors thanks bud. I might do a test and I'll let you know with flexing and such how they work out. Doing all this work having little dents on a finish project will drive me crazy because there's no story behind them.
@@imnotwatching1 I know how you feel, I used to get really irked over having such a clean looking boat and then some random dents. I just have to remind myself that the dents are under the water line lol
Mine wasn't completely setup the next morning (13 hours) but by the end of the day (it's 6 pm now) it's very hard. I did a few touch ups to make sure I never have a leak. It's looks like it's at least 1/32 of an inch thick everywhere on the boat, so I should be good to go, I'm going to let it sit for atleast 3 days to make sure it's supper hard.
which product you like better the glove it or coat it ? I hear the coat it cracks over time on a hull because it has no flex ?
@@hunter_1252 coat it for bottom coating, gluvit for interior leak sealing
@@mvboutdoors ok awesome man thank you !
I got a 14ft Jon boat. Will the 2lb kit be enough? Can you go over existing paint? I’ve stripped most of it off but there’s still a few small thin spots
@@sfpp2023 Yeah the 2lb kit should be enough. You can go over existing paint if it's adhered well to the hull.
@@mvboutdoors awesome I think they sell it at my Home Depot I’ll check and try it this weekend
So Im looking at a 16' Sea Nymph, basically the same boat. How did you flip it to paint the bottom, given the 600+ pound weight? Great build, looking to duplicate much.
Very slowly, lol. I balanced it on its side then slowly lowered it down.
Muscles, dedication, and will to have the boat flipped.
I guess I only ordered a small can Wich won’t be enough for the whole bottom can I just do the rivits and what extra it covers ? Do I need to do the inside rivits or any side rivits back etc or just bottom ?
If you're only looking to seal up the boat sure you can do just the rivets. You can do both the interior and exterior, just mix small amounts so you don't waste any.
Will gator glide stick to this stuff or does this make the boat slick like gator glide
You would use gatorglide instead of this, not layer on top. You could, with proper prep, but they are but epoxies.
This is the exact reason I came here thanks 🙏🏾
2 questions because i am in the process of doing the same stuff just on a bigger boat 1 how come you didn't just go over the seams and the rivets instead of coating the entire bottom? and 2 is if you were painting the whole boat anyway was it necessary to tape the boat? i am not bashing or anything i truly and trying to learn i have never done boat repair until now.
The bottom coating provides protection to the entire hull in addition to sealing leaks/rivets. For example beaching the boat, etc. You certainly could only apply to rivets/seams if that's your only goal.
As for taping, epoxy is thick and mildly textured. Even when you paint over it you'll see where the epoxy is. Taping it off gives you a nice clean edge that is much less apparent.
can you paint overtop of this stuff after its applied?
Yeah, no prob painting
coming along very nice 👌
How many pounds of coat it did you use? I’m fixing to do mine
I used about 1/2 the 8lb kit, more than enough
Great video! I used this on my boat and I wanted to go up the side 3 or 4 inches. Unfortunately when I did it, it ran some and is quite uneven in areas. Now that it is set, do you think I could add a couple inches more a bit thinner to square it up? Or do you know of a way to remove some to square it up? I’m not completely happy with how uneven it is and it will bother me if I don’t do something.
Any recommendations on primer to use for the whole boat before I paint?
I've used this marine primer a couple times now and it's worked out well: amzn.to/3i3Xjj8
For the runs, get yourself a sander with some 80grit and smooth it down then you can add a coat on top and it will look smooth. Any drips/runs are going to show through another layer on top.
Hey
Just wondering if there was any “coat it “ left over after the bottom was fished..
Thanks
Yes, I had about 1/4 left using the larger kit size.
@@mvboutdoors awesome thanks.. enjoy your videos! 👍🏼👍🏼
I only got 3/4 of the bottom done on my 1648 with the 8 lb. Kit and they didn't skimp me because I weighed it before hand.
I have a small 10ft flat bottom jon I'm working on. How much coat it would I need? Would the smaller 2lb (1.75) do it?
Yeah for sure, that covers a lot of area
I have a 14ft aluminum boat will the 2lb kit be enough....also is how has it held up so far
Yeah that would be more than enough, it's help up great! Very strong stuff.
Hows it holding up a year later
How does it hold up in salt water. Any info on that .Thanks
Shouldn't have any issues with salt, it's epoxy.
Have you ever used a totalpaint product coatit epoxy??
Just wondering if the total paint would accept the coat it epoxy without peeling over time
Thanks ..
I have painted over Coat-It and it holds paint great. You have to make sure to prep it properly. I did a video here for how to prep epoxy before painting: ruclips.net/video/5SiuLqZ1k9w/видео.html
@@mvboutdoors yes I’ve watched that video a few times as I’m getting ready to paint my boat . Love your videos by the way, they’re very thorough. 👍🏼
But I’m not using rustoleum. I went with a product called “totalboat” paint ..
It’s pretty expensive per gallon ..
Just curious if you’ve ever work with that product. And what were the results after painting over the coat-epoxy..
thanks
@@BruceErler-ts3ef Thank you! I haven't used total boat products personally but Coat-It in general is paintable so I can't see it being a problem.
@@mvboutdoors ok thanks 👍🏼
Any reason you didn’t take the coating all the way to the nose of the boat?
Mainly because it's a different texture and the front of the boat isnt going to see wear. I wanted a cleaner front look.
Can this be used inside rather then the bottom like you would Gluvit .I’m in Canada and Gluvit is $120 plus where as i just bought coat it on Amazon on sale for $75
You could but gluvit works better because it's a lot thinner and seeps into cracks/rivets. You could probably thin coat it for a similar effect
any transparent colour type ?
Not in Coat-It but maybe other epoxies.
Good job MVB! Thanks for the vid. I have a quick question if you don't mind. Is this epoxy a true black? It looks kind of grey....
@@colterarmstrong2283 it's definitely a gunmetal gray, not black
@mvboutdoors thanks for the response. I bought some dye to make it a true black on the hull of my boat, instead of purchasing an expensive paint.
Can you paint on top of this ?
You sure can!
Can you paint over it once it sets?
Yes absolutely! Next video will be exactly that.
The cup you're pouring into should have 7:1 ratio lines.
Nice job! How's it holding up?
Excellent, would use it again in a heartbeat
Will it work on wood boats?
Definitely, it's epoxy so wood/aluminum no problem.
How much coat it did you need? And is that a 14’ boat?
I used this kit here and used a good portion of it. This was a 1648 boat
amzn.to/3JfAn9M
Did you use 2 coats or just one
Just one, it lays on thick
Thank you.
It has some thin spots but not where It was leaking..... If I touch them up I won't have enough for the inside and money doesn't allow me to get another tub or GLuv-it ...
Thanks for always helping
Do you only have to seal the bottom? Or inside aswell? My boat has multiple rivet leaks
In my opinion, the more the better. I plan to seal from the interior with Gluvit just to be safe.
@@mvboutdoors thank you! Should I try to tighten the rivets at all before? Pretty new to this but wanna get my boat in tip top shape!
@@_its80_ yeah for sure, I used an air hammer and it worked really well
I’ve got crack on the bottom left corner of the transom. Previous owner tried to patch with jb weld. Still leaks got any suggestions?
Thank for all the info it’s a big help!
@@_its80_ For me I would get it welded, it's the only thing that will last long term. If you want a temp fix, drill the ends of the crack so it doesn't expand and fill it with epoxy/sealant.
Have you had any issues keeping the black clean?
Water spots are always an issue with black finishes but they wipe away easy enough. Much better than a white color like my last where it would stain up to the waterline everytime it was taken out.
@@mvboutdoors thanks for the quick reply. Love your channel too BTW. I'm building the same 1648 at the moment. Just got it stripped and ready for the coat it bottom coat. Got a little nervous on the mixed reviews of black paint. Guess it can go either way with any colors also. Just did not want to follow the trend of camo.
Does this affect top speed at all
Not negatively, it has the possibility of improving it by smoothing out the surface
Is this considered a bottom coat? Or just an epoxy sealer ? Can I paint over it or should I leave it as is ?
Yes this a bottom coating, all bottom coatings are epoxy sealers. Yes you can and should paint over it, paint protects epoxy from UV (not that it will get much exposure on the underside.) I did just that in the next couple videos if you wanted to see the process.
@@mvboutdoors I can’t find the video do you have to sand the sealer before paint?
@@joshuaswanson3068 The main thing is to clean it really well with a degreaser first. ruclips.net/video/YufHgSBi7zA/видео.html
Good job Muscles!!! Nice and slow!!! I'd probably end up sanding down to bare aluminum, but like you said, if the factory paint is still good, you should be alright. How did you pick that brand over the "others?"
Haha those boats are a lot heavier than you think, or at least awkwardly shaped!
I used Steelflex on the last boat bottom and while it was definitely slick it was such a pain to apply. I ended up using coat-it for sealing up some other bolts and the transom and I loved how it worked. It's also meant for boat bottom, about half the price and goes on much easier. Seemed like a no brainer.
What makes gator glide or super sluck any different from this one? Aren’t they all epoxy coatings? I also ready you have to paint this stuff because its not uv resistant
Yes, they are all epoxy coatings with different mixes of additives to perform differently. Most epoxies will last longer if UV protected via paint but only some manufacturers put it on the label. Gator Glide / Super Slick have glossifiers and additives for slickness built into them. Coat-it has kevlar to make it more durable/abrasion resistant which I feel works great for a boat bottom but it does not have slickness additives. That doesn't mean it won't be smooth or any slower on the water. Slickness additives are less useful for boats that won't be skating over grass/logs like an airboat/mud boat would.
Hope that helps!
Use a automotive paint mixing cup it will have on the side mixing ratios no need for a scale…. nice job
Great idea, I'll look for that
Coat it is supposed to be mixed by weight , not by volume so mixing cup calibrations are useless. You need to use a small scale to calibrate adding the hardener.
THAT WAS MY QUESTION, could it be used over other paint. 👍👍
For sure! Factory paint is usually very good, as long as its in good condition the epoxy will adhere no problem.
You only did one coat?
That's correct, its very thick epoxy.
you did not say how much you needed in the cup, im trying to understand step by step what you did i want to do my boat with the same stuff!
The ratio for mixing is printed on the label, I was doing it in small batches so I showed how to measure and calculate your ratio.
Proper prep will lead to a long lasting coating but man will it wipe you out!
Point...paint bottom with proper bottom paint. Let cure for 7 days. Then put your epoxy coat on. Best sealed bottom!
I couldn’t tell, but did it end up being black?
It dried to a dark gray, not all the way black
Great vid bro - get some cardio you’re a young man 👍🏻
Thanks man, working on it!
After using this product and 2 separate coats......never again. It does work and is difficult compared to other products like aluminium Hawk which I have used and works the same but much much better.
Alumahawk is paint, Coat-It is an epoxy, a very different material and used for a different purpose.
How much you pay for the boat?
It's a long story on the boat purchase but around $1000 for boat/trailer.
@@mvboutdoors That's a good price. Good thing the title issue worked out for you.
You should do a detailed cost analysis video on your boat. I'm sure a lot of people are interested to know how much something like this costs.
Can you apply this while the boat is right side up? I just got a new engine added to my Aluma weld 1650. I dont want to take the motor and the controls off.
Coat-it would work well for applying from underneath. Something like Gluvit would be too loose and drip off but this sets up really quick. You may want to do it in smaller mixes and give the epoxy a little extra time to cook before applying so its nice and thick.
@@mvboutdoors Thanks man!