Most Common Mistakes Working With Fiberglass!
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- Опубликовано: 13 авг 2022
- After a few years of conversations with folks I thought that this could be a topic that might help save a bunch of setbacks and frustration on your projects ;-)
We've all been there (Including myself), and it's all part of the process (in my option part of the problem solving fun :-)
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From Down Under, Thank you so much Andy for your years of passing on knowledge. You have helped me so often get through my boat projects..
You are the greatest. There's no chance I'd have embarked on this boat restoration journey without your wealth of knowledge and generosity to share it for free. Getting ready to glass in my stringers tomorrow. Timing couldn't be better.
Thank you!!
❤
Using your videos as a refrence tool has been AMAZING!!!! Thank you so very much for all the knowledge you pass on to us! It really makes a difference!
These videos are a great resource, I agree. But these pale in comparison to vast wealths of knowledge present on his Patreon. Not tryin’ to sell you on it-don’t get me wrong. Just wanted to pass that on. 👍🏼
Good video! I learned a lot of this on the fly when I glassed my outer hull this past summer. I found out very quickly that you have to know your limits. When I laid down the first layer, I divided the bottom of the hull into left and right halves with an overlap right down the center. (The transom area and float pods were already done.) The plan was to lay one half of the bottom, bow to stern, using one long sheet to cover half of the bottom and then move on to the other side. When I put that first sheet down though, I was within about ten minutes of disaster. By the time I finished working the glass at the bow, the area back by the stern was already firing off! With the Texas heat, there was no time to fix any problems had any come up. Good thing the job went as smoothly as it did because there would have been no time to fix anything! Even though I had resin and hardener premeasured and poured into separate cups waiting to be mixed, I didn't have a helper to do the mixing when I was ready for the next batch of resin. I had to stop in the middle of the wet out to mix resin, and that takes time. It was so hot, it was firing off almost as fast as I laid it down and it was all I could do to stay ahead of it, and that was because I tried to do too much at one time. After that near fiasco, I cut the long sheets and overlapped them, and addressed the overlaps when I faired it out. In other words, I divided the bottom of the boat into quarters instead of halves in order to have smaller pieces of cloth to work with. Now that it's faired out and painted, you'd have to know where the overlaps are to see them. I used a combination of six ounce and eight ounce cloth to keep the weight down. I'm building my boat specifically for the coastal marshes and shallow flats - skinny water, and weight has to be the main consideration.
Andy. I am so thankful for you and your classes online. You make us so much better and professional in our boat projects… I love doing the “teapot-tap”😂. I would love to speak to you sometime.
Andys advice and jamestown distributors= success and quality on any boat project. Thanks to both.
One day I'll put your work to practice, but in the meantime I'm learning loads and enjoying your videos tremendously! Thanks for your hard work and great productions!
Andy, I am restoring a 1974 Renault Alpine A110 which is 100% Fiberglass and have found very usefull watching your videos!! thanks for sharing with us !!
I bet you don't know how much FUN my Dad and I enjoy watching this and learning from you. Thanks so much.
Over the years, this is the one channel I keep coming back to. Best channel boat repairs!
Not only have I watched probably 1000’s of videos trying to learn about something I know nothing about and getting just about every pilot rating up to Airline Transport Pilot rating then sitting in numerous ground schools learning the systems of various airplanes I’ve flown. I know a good instructor from a bad one. You rate right up there as a good instructor. Very nicely done video. I’m going to subscribe because now I’m trying to learn how to fiberglass, which I know nothing about.
Thanks for the vid Andy, brilliant as always! Im a Swedish boat repairman and I was told that you should use 2,5x the amount of poly in weight! e.g. 100g of fiberglass with 250g of poly or vinyl. You still need the feeling for it though!
Love these videoes Andy ! i have one lesson i learned the hard way as a teenager in South Florida i bought my first boat at 15 Years of age A 21 footer Center Console that had soft floors and had already been stripped out with new Plywood Laid down but not Glassed in Yet all the Resin,Cloth , and Application tools came with the boat and the Rocket Gavanized Trailer the boat was on was worth what i paid for the whole thing i didn’t even have a car so i borrowed my Dads Volvo StationWagon to tow it home full of Piss and Vinegar and a ton of excitement i went right to work Glassing the Plywood ASAP before i had time to build the Center Console that was nonexistent i went to Town i had lots of Spunk but no Paceince so i didn’t Wet it all out correctly or pretreat the weathered. Plywood that really was just AC or outdoor ConstructionGrade Man i rolled severalLayers on that floor and let it fully cure i. that SouthFlorida heat and Sunshine and of course i lost interest so she sat out there for a couple of years i noticed that the UV destroyed all that Resin and it basically was free floating on top of the Plywood next i figured it out it all needed to be ripped out and thrown away because of the Beam it was a extra wide Cloth blah blah also my Mom didn’t like the thing parked on the side of the house i grew up in and had moved out at 17 so she traded it for Lawn Service when her and my Dad divorced ? Oh Well my lesson was simply know what the hell you are getting into and consult the right people i’ve learned a lot over the years and i’ve successfully done a lot of Fiberglassing and Cold Molding Boats i’m also a retired Professional Wood Worker and i’ve owned 17 or 18 Boats over the years ,Wood ,Fiberglass , and Aluminum Hulls and i did a full Restoation on a 1964 Chris Craft Constellation Mahogany CabinCruiser with Fiberglass Cabin sides and Roof on top of the Plywood Deck Which i did reinforce with the WestvEpoxy system and Cloth for Water Tight Seams and Connections ! i also did a lot of Plywood deck Improvements with that System i’m retired now and honestly i watch your channel for entertainment and a learning guide not completely sure what my next Boat project will be but i do understand and admit my Addiction there are a couple of Glen L designs i like and have had my eye on for years ! Who Knows ?
Thank you for sharing your techniques. With out your advice I would have never been able to pull of a repair I’m doing on a 72 corvette. Thank you sir
as always very informative and very educational, love the way you describe how to and the why, hooked from start to finish thank you!! keep them coming looking forward to the next one .
Cheers Andy, I appreciate your videos and that you are willing to share your knowledge. I always learn something from your posts, you're a good man.
Great video Andy. I have rebuilt quite a few power boats and as an old fella I use polyester resin for layups and epoxy for gluing. I get many people saying you must use epoxy for layups on plywood. I have always pre wet the ply prior to layup and have never had any issues. It sure pleased me that you used polyester in your test. I have been a subscriber to your channel for a long time and look forward to your videos. Cheers from Australia
Bob
Now, I worked in a fiberglass shop that predominantly used epoxy resin, very little polyester. I was told that epoxy will bond to polyester, but polyester does not give a good bond to epoxy. That's what was taught in our classes. Hmm, now I'm wondering if this is true.
@@jenette16Its TRUE!
I've done a lot of fiberglass repairs over the years on heavy truck hoods, some nostalgia race cars and friends boats. This was a very good video, I've had to re-do a lot of amateur repairs and you've touched on the worst mistakes. People who haven't developed skills with glass should do some practice pieces as you've demonstrated.
I've made the truck front, for both Mack and Peterbilt! Many years ago! All fiberglass. You probably repaired some of my handy work! How and what have you repaired?
40 degree weather in the UK. Some of my original fiberglass "fixes" just melted lol. I had not sanded off all the paint off the hull for the bits of wood I glued to it. Thankfully it was mainly stuff not needed once I stripped out the boat. But yeah, the heat is making a difference. Thanks for your videos! My later effort is holding together, now I've watched your videos!
Nice to finally see some instructional videos. Super helpful and glad to learn more. Thanks.
I must have watched dozen videos of people building their own kayaks and canoes. Nearly all of them laid the raw glass on the beautiful wooden hull they built and then proceed to pour and squeegee the resin into the glass.
I have always wondered about that wooden hull sucking up the resin causing a poor bond.
For example, whenever I glue up wooden objects I always lay a thin coat on both pieces for the exact same reason.
The wood sucks up the adhesive and results in a weaker bond if you only coat one side.
Thank you for your video. It confirmed what I have always thought. Thumbs up.
Your channel is my go to now, thanks for sharing so much valuable info with us
So glad to see Andy making these videos! Can't help adding my two cents, as I've worked on many fiberglass projects since 1957!
P .S. did you know that fiberglass history goes back to world war 2? The AT-6s had fiberglass in them and are still flying!
A real treat to see a professional at work
Ya your technique and experience shows, I’m already kicken myself on my last couple of projects, lol. Thank-you for sharing your knowledge. Thanks
The content on this channel is awe inspiring!! Can't thank u enough!!
Excellent! I'm a beginner at this and I love these tips. Excellent job.
thanks so much, it's great to see someone that knows what they are doing sharing skills. there seems to he a lot of chancers doing fiberglass on you tube.
Thank you Andy. I needed that info for my up coming hot rod project.
Thanks for the info and lessons .....great info for my up and coming project ....keep up the good info ......
Your videos are always informative and helpful, thank you
You're Awesome!! Thank you for sharing and taking your time sharing your knowledge and demonstrating it.
Brilliant, I needed to see this video. Usually I have resin in my hair and wet glass fibres on both hands within five minutes of mixing the resin!
I've learned this the hard way as I have some work in my bilge starting to separate from the substrate. (I don't think I bothered to coat the wood at all when I did the work over ten years ago) Eventually I'll have to grind it off and now I know the importance of doing it right. Thanks!
Must bilges are saturated with oil! A BIG NO-NO for laying up with fiberglass!
Nice. Thanks, very helpful and timely for a project coming up!
thank you, I have worried about saturated the glass too much. so, I think I was using too little resin. the good news is I am just getting started. I can change my technique. when I can vacuum bag, I typically use quite a bit, assuming the excess will be pulled out. It is the instances where I have to layup with out vacuum bagging I get into trouble. I also use too much pressure. this was helpful.
Great video - Well explained with good hands on examples - thank you
Thanks for sharing all this helpful information, Andy!!
Excellent demonstration!!
A lot of great learning on this video. Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks Andy for the tips on rolling out to much resin.
Aweome work man. I know how long these vids take to cut and edit. Plus the knowledge alone.
Much love from Australia!
You could work the fiberglass with a camfered roller before adding resin on tom to avoid trapping air into fibers and improve the outcome even more.
THX for sharing👍
Amazing work andy you are an inspiration to us all😊
I needed this 20 years ago. Know it now. But forget. Thanks for the reminder
Andy, maybe you have one in the shop but, they make fairly cheap digital scales (about 4" x 4") with adjustable units (grams, ounces etc). You could use one of those to measure the pressure you are using on the roller. You could even bring your roller to a post office and use their scale at the self-help postage machine. Just a suggestion, I've heard you trying to quantify the pressure in several videos.
The tutorial is great I like it and I feel that is the best on how to start with fiberglass.
Thanks !
Thank you...beginner...your assistance is greatly appreciated!!!
That was a fantastic demonstration matey! Absolutely outstanding and exactly what I needed to see before my first attempt at fiberglassing:)
I have been a bit concerned but now I know I'm going to smash it right now lol.!
Hi Andy,
Another great informative video - thanks. Could you do one with "tips and tricks" for laying up fiberglass overhead, e.g. repairs to the inside of a cabin. Thanks
Was just hoping for the same thing. I've gone after some rotten core from the underside and need to get fresh core up and in and then new glass laid out.
Thank you sir. Last month i am facing too much (non pre coat) problems.
Great demonstration, thanks Andy 👍😁
Once again, another important lesson shared. When you have been doing this for as long as and as much as you have, over the years, you pick up all the do's and dont's us inexperienced people wouldn't know about.
Then kindly share it so we do not make the same mistakes. Thanks to this, I will be able to do it right the first time, on a boat I have designed and will build sometime in the near future. Thanks again Andy.
I liked this video a lot! Any significant differences to be aware of when doing this with epoxy instead of polyester?
I just found your channel. Great job. I have never glassed but plan to in the near future.
Excellent video. I learned so much. Thank you!
I believe the word that you were looking for is diligence. .... Methodical diligence is they key to a successful layup when one is working with polyester resin.
I appreciate you and your sharing of your hard earned experience
Very Interesting !!!! Thanks for the demonstration.
Love your work, mate ❤️
Thanks for great lesson on applying resign!!
How would you do this on a vertical area- would like to beef up my sailboat transom to help support a boarding ladder
Love watching your videos, so helpful for my own river boat restoration project, I’m looking to soon replace my transom using marine plywood due to being in the uk coosaboard is near impossible to find at a price that fits the budget. With presoaking the wood as such is it ok to do that first before the glue up stage as, one to add a extra extra seal/protection for the ply and to then give the thicken epoxy a better bond. Will this work the same? Many thanks Dani
excellent video canoe to repair, now I have a basic understanding as to how. thank you , new subscriber now.
really instructive and useful video, thank you!
Thank you brother very helpful like always 💯
awesome vid! love your demonstrations!
What do you think about waiting for the first coat to become tacky before laying the cloth and then more epoxy once the cloth is stuck and pressed into the shape you want? Granted this isn't for 5 layers of heavy cloth, but I was watching some people doing carbon fiber overlays for vehicles and that's how they got their twill to conform to shapes without folds.
I agree there are a lot of people doing it wrong. I'm just trying to learn all I can, and the carbon fiber application process made me reconsider even the GOOD fiberglassing tutorials I've been watching. Hmmm. Thank you!
Great! Really useful video! Thanks Andy!
Perfect, useful demonstrations.
My suggestion to the beginner. Pause video on completed balsa samples, NOTE color and clarity of presaturated piece and commit that to memory. In the second sample piece, two fingers is a good start but be mindful of roller angle. The greater the angle (closer to 90 degrees) the more resin you will remove, even with two fingers of pressure. When too much resin is removed it will allow the material to suck air in between layers. Strength and flexibility of the glass is getting the correct balance of resin and glass. I suggest doing sample test pieces then do cross section cuts. Sand cut edge, then wet and you should be able to see the layers and any voids. I would also be mindful of material thickness. Doing too much at once can generate a tremendous amount of heat, creating heat fractures. Usually only happens when we went over 3/8 " or in corner areas on hot days. As stated don't rush. Note difference in time and care taken during balsa samples. It really does matter in strength and longevity.
This is great. Do you have a video that would apply to how to patch a round instrument hole?
I'm particularly interested in what the final layer looks like, if painting is the only option or if it's possible to thicken up some gel coat
thanks Andy your videos are such a good reference cheers mate
Most thank you bro for the knowledge.
Andy, great demo and explanation. Could you do a tutorial about peel ply, what is is and how to use it on your project?
You can find videos of peelply in use at SailLife 's older library :)
Peel ply is seldom used, as it requires much more work! If you do your work right the first time! It does give a nice surface, but it will leave a somewhat small texture!
What effect would having a layer of peel ply over the samples, would it let you drive out more resin, get a denser layup, and still exclude air?
Thank you so much for your videos. They are awesome.
first time with you.. i will look for all your veds on this.. likded, subed.. thank you so much for sharing and teaching, getting old ut still want to build a little boat, retired in the philippines, need to go fishing -lol
Thanks for the advice will come in handy..
I went to the school of learn-by-mistake. What you show makes so much sense after I did a bunch of stuff wrong. Fortunately, no one died. And my subsequent efforts actually benefitted from my rookie errors.
BTW - why (when) would one choose polyester resin instead of epoxy?
Nicely done, thanks.
Great vid Andy awesome as always. Now maybe the same vid in epoxy I know most the same things apply but epoxy is much harder to wet out then poly. I did learn a few things for sure I know there all same for same. Death grip on the roller was my main problem I bent a couple rollers.
Andy, how large of an area should you work at any give time ?
I have a couple of larger soft spots I need to do on the deck of my 45ft sailhoat.
This will be my first time at this.
Great channel bye the way , keep the info coming.
Many thanks , Steve.
Great video and comparison test.
I don't use fiberglass much but if I do it's something important. You are much appreciated.
So much wonderful information! I want to do a camper. Any advice or videos on how to do a large area? What about seams? Thank you
Literally just made a core repair in Inconceivable. The balsa was really really thirst. Mixed 16 oz thinking I would have extra…. Was almost scrapping the cup by the end.
Nice work with the light reflection to the camera lense.
I used to use A ROLLER really hard for the bubbles. Always had parts with bubbles in them after I pop them. I have learned to be more gentle on the roller with better results. What kind of mask do you use when using poly resins?
these videos are great! Does it matter if you let the base coat dry completely? on a big project could i saturate my wood one day and glass the next day or is it best to glass while its still tacky?
Thanks for the video on this topic. I know there are other older videos on laminating fiberglass... but I would love your take on laminating multiply ply's of either a Masonite or a plywood. Super strong to span distances...like a swim platform or a double wide engine hatch.
Brilliant advice, thank you. 🙂🙂
I think you are taking your time on the first comparison prewetted layup.
very useful and informative. practical and easy
This video was very helpful. Thank you. I'm wanting to glass over a deck that was built using bare presure treated ply. The wood appears to be in decent condition with the exception of one section that I've cut out and will be replaceing. The boat is about 20 years old, and I'm wondering if, in your experience, 20 year old presure treated ply will absorb enough epoxy to form a bond with the glass. Your example with with the dry balsa gave me cold sweats...
My hunch is that the age of the plywood isn't an issue, as long as it isn't rotten. In a situation were the surface being fiberglassed isn't absorbent, you might have better luck with epoxy rather than polyester resin, since epoxy naturally sticks well.
Great vid and good info .Quick question what's the cheapest cleaner for my brushes and rollers..
great point and makes sense as a glasser this is must know
For me Andy your vids and your info on forums is the best of any RUclipsr and absolutely I would have you working on my own boats and I don't trust many people. Anyway, I don't think its fair to brush apply whatever mix you are using then instantly lay the cloth, I feel every type of epoxy needs a minimum of 3-5min (temp or UV dependant) on the surface so it can utilise its initial flow out and chemical characteristics before you lay anything on top. Then even layering up I would expect the first layer to be given a soak out and allow that bottom end to be an actual foundation before I even decided what I was applying next. See doing it like you did it will rarely work if your mixing strands, like say a biaxial then a chop strand on top followed by a lighter finish cloth. I can mess a job up that I know will usually work out fine when I'm combining different grade cloths just by not letting the flow out of each pour actually do its job. I know you are honest so I'm not questioning your integrity just I think you would need to follow the exact procedure for each of them to actually judge the final product. I'm back on 105 and UK powder bound chop strand when I need the El choppo finish. Not even going back to poly or vinyl ever again after using UK powder bound chop, no shrinkage and brutal levels of bond and maybe 20% strength over normal chop and poly/vinyl. Have you tried UK powder bound chop strand mate? Can send you a bunch of fresh trial stuff if not. The ones I prefer are the 300 and 450gm over the 600gm powder bound, they are a different magnitude as far as 'staying where your laying' works ridiculously good with a fin roller or paddle roller either will do and only needs a few strikes, the angles stitched in quick as you like with a wheel roller and the thing won't move. If you've never used UK powder bound chop with 105 you need to try it Andy as a matter of urgency. I promise you will be like "ohh my I need this in my life"
Can you buy this in the states?.....
Fabulous mate. Just a question, will a bay window need a few coats of matting and resin like in this video or just one layer is enough?
Thanks Andy!
If I had watched this video, long ago, it would have saved me thousands of dollars, really, nothing like half of the side of my home build boat being able to just be ripped off with a good tug of the hand, awesome video! They don't teach fiber-glassing in any jr colleges that i know of, why not?