I don't have a boat. I am not building a boat. I don't fish. I haven't gone fishing since i was a kid. But somehow I keep coming back to watch your videos. I find them very entertaining and informative. I feel like if I would ever want to build a boat, this channel is the place to start.
That's what got me hooked into his channel, I just liked the way he worked, laid it all out, and overall ease in showing/telling how to use products. Now I am trying to source materials to build a houseboat. peace
Good video re wetting out and peel ply. Thank you. Some local kite board builders use the red striped peel ply to create a non-skid texture with no paint. They squeegee really hard after the roller to get extra unnecessary resin out in order to reduce weight. Some Olympic style kite boards can weigh as little as 7.5 pounds reducing the swing weight significantly. Many hydrofoil appendages are done in cast aluminum or steel molds with extreme clamping pressure. Example, the strut/mast on the Hydro foil you see me on in this photograph has about 75 layers of carbon within a half inch or less.
Joe, I’m glad you gained all the knowledge from your dad that you did. You (and Pops) are teaching a lot of people invaluable skills and information, and you do it with a smoothness that only an expert can do. Thanks for what ya do, and thanks to the fam and everybody working in the background to make your content. It’s great stuff!
Maybe the how-to fiberglass over plywood or our how-to waterproof plywood videos. I am pretty sure that I have that technique somewhere on the channel, but I'm not sure exactly which one. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
My favorite use of peel ply is to squeegee it out which yields light finished parts almost as if you had vacuum bagged it. Basically use it to get out any excess resin without introducing air.
Great intro video to peel ply. I’ve built both ply craft and PVC/ epoxy sandwich boats and one other advantage of peel ply is you can return to an epoxy surface weeks or months later, remove the peel ply and continue epoxy work as if it was fresh laid, without having to sand to expose fresh material. Which is super handy and time/work saving on bigger or multifaceted jobs. I guess we all have our favourite techniques. Personally I almost never use ribbed rollers and rarely use brushes. I almost always use cheap 4” disposable paint rollers - the 1” diameter variety. The advantages I find are they are great at “carrying” epoxy from your pot to your job (especially on small, vertical or difficult situations) and excellent at spreading, evening out, and controlling and removing excess epoxy. Which is particularly handy on larger surfaces. None of which ribbed rollers do well - their claim to fame being basically bubble removal. But I’ve never had problems with bubbles provided you work the surface well and saturate the cloth. Every time I’ve tried ribbed rollers I quickly go back to my paint rollers : )
I built my 31ft racing trimaran (sailboat) in the 90's with carbon fiber over strip planked balsa. I used peel ply for every surface and it saved a lot of time eliminating sanding between lay ups. And sanding the carbon is not recommended because it cuts/weakens the fibers. I got my peel ply from fabric stores (100% nylon suit liner). BTW, when removing (peeling off) the peel ply, if you turn the lights off, you get a free light show. I guess it's the static electricity released as you peel the peel ply off. But you might as well keep the peel ply on until you are ready for the next bond or lay up because it keeps the surface under 100% clean. I always liked using a plastic squeegee to wet out the carbon and lay down the peel ply. And plastic/metal tools were cleaned easily of epoxy using vinegar.
Love your content. You are so generous to share with your son and all of us. How did you pick up such an impressive vocabulary? All your words seem so thoughtful and well chosen. Also, I love your advice regarding cherishing your parents and loved ones because no one knows how long we have together .
Thanks, I appreciate that! It really doesn't have to be that difficult. Do your research, plan you work, line up all your materials, start with small projects, and work your way up.
Another great tip is to layout your FG cloth between sheets of 3 mill clear plastic. Then you can use a hotel keycard to move the resin through and off the layup. You can also lay this sandwich on your part, sharpie right on the plastic, cut it to shape, then when you are ready to apply, you remove the bottom plastic and apply it like a sticker. The remaining sheet keeps the fibers from moving around. Once you apply it, press it down, remove the remaining plastic, then apply the peel ply. Very clean technique that we use in aviation.
My mistake was wetting out on only one piece of 3 mil plastic and trying to lift it off that and place it on the board. What a mess. I'll try your method and hope the extra piece of plastic keeps everything together when I pull the bottom piece off like a sticker. Thanks for the tip!
Another super helpful tutorial Joe - thanks! I am planning on building a 15 ft lightweight,stitch and glue, utility skiff in the next few months and am REALLY hoping you do a series on such a project.
Glad it was helpful! Sounds like you have a cool project planned! We have the 21ft Blazer project boat scheduled first, then maybe a stitch and glue skiff. We will just have to see how it all works out. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
OMG! This stuff would have saved me so much time on my build. Major regrets not using it when I did my bottom. These vids are awesome and help a lot of folks like me.
Yes, there are certain applications for peel ply that can really save some time and effort! Glad you are enjoying the videos and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
They also spray a light wax on fir plywood when it is made so it will be water repellant. This is on sheathing grades. Another good reason to sand it. We also do a fast setting flood coat thinned down with a bit of acetone so it soaks in. If we don't do this we can grab a corner and easily peel it off.
Lost my dad years ago, I laugh almost daily as I do stuff that he spent time teaching when I was young, he also let me problem solve to work things out so I was better able to apply in life. Great video, quick and easily nothing over the top, a few tips along the way targeted at the DIY guy not the professional. Keep up the great work, wishing you and your family the best of health in the future, health is wealth. "Kia Kaha" - "Stay Strong" from New Zealand.
Off topic, but I hope your shop and family did well through the storm! I know yall are used to it, I’m a Florida cracker & we do the dance every year as well.
Thank you Captain Joe for another Great video.. Sorry about Dad, I lost mine 2 years ago christmas but I sure did learn alot from him like you.... Your son is awesome and you guys are SO FORTUNATE to have each other as he is in the presence of not only a Master craftsman but one that Truly cares about him and theres no school comparable to that as even when youre not actually teaching him hes watching you and picking up on your skills... SO AMAZING!!... Im 60 with a bad bad back but my last boat was a 38 scarab avs... I built the 502 motors and repaired a ton of transom rot but it was a nice boat to have in my 30s.... OK, Ill stop going on but I wiish you and yours the best..... Thanks for some sunday knowledge and Ill support til the end!
Wow, sorry to hear about your Dad! I sure do miss mine. Glad I am getting to spend lots of time with my son, I hope he can use some of what he is learning to help him with his adult life someday. Happy we can work on these videos and share with you all! Sounds like you have worked on some cool projects in the past. I get the bad back thing, mine is acting up on occasion as I get older, and it sure isn't any fun! I appreciate you watching and commenting and I wish you all the best!
Hi Captain Joe! Another great video! Keep up the great work! I know there are many of us out here that really appreciate what you are doing! All the best from California!🧡
My home county in Arkansas has many bass boat manufacturers. The best of them allow their workers to experiment and learn. An interesting side product that one made was caskets that matched a favorite boat in color scheme and finish. I never worked at any of the plants but had many neighbors that did. The worst of the employers would have people that still smelled like resin after they had been away from work for the Christmas vacation. Ventilation beats PPE, PPE is better than nothing.
Interesting, thanks for sharing! I think good ventilation and quality ppe are both important when working around most of these products for sure! It funny that you mentioned this because I am posting a Fiberglass Safety video this afternoon.So stay tuned, and thanks for watching!
Peel ply is not available in my area so I have substituted plain old 3 mil poly sheeting. It is a life saver for working overhead, keeping the resin from dripping on you. And when cured it peels right off and leaves a nice smooth surface. Someday I hope to find some peel ply but for now the poly sheeting is a second best option. Great video.
I heard someone online say that some of the dollar store shower curtain that is more like fabric than plastic makes a good substitute. Not sure...I haven't actually tried it. Seems plausible.
No, Thai isn’t as good.. I also use the plastic sheeting to wet it out and place the glass in place, but it doesn’t work the same as peel ply. If you use clear plastic on top, it’ll be too shinny to apply more later. You want the peelply or rip stop nylon on top. The peelply will absorb some excess resin, and leave a cleaner surface that doesn’t need sanding to apply more layers if needed. You can also put on peelply, then some blue paper towels on top to absorb the excess.
Before starting the build of my 31' trimaran, I visited a guy in CO doing the same boat and same material (carbon over duracore balsa strips). Prior to the boat, he had built 2 experimental aircraft. He told me 100% nylon suit liner from the fabric store worked fine for the peel ply (much cheaper there also). It worked for his planes and boats, and my tri that's still holding together after 30 years.
Joe, I appreciate your down to earth approach and honesty in your videos. I have been working in the automotive industry on both cars and boats for years, and truly enjoy your content. Keep up the great work.
Greetings from the west coast of Scotland, thanks for this valuable information, be renewing my transom soon and I will certainly be using peel ply, great finish , thanks again pal.
Epoxy tip: White vinegar for 1'st bath cleaning. Then it just takes a smidgen of acetone to get the final bit. Saves acetone, money and your exposure. :)
20 years ago I built three kayaks with marine plywood and expoxy and fiberglass. Laid up and wetted out several leagent of glass and sanded down each layer with an orbital sander. Boy, I wish peel ply had been available back then.
Starting over on my second project boar and loving the channel. Both a refresher and picking up some new techniques. A request for your next experiment... how about anothe gel coat durability test over this peel ply surface, please. Thanks.
Yes, you can use wax paper as an air inhibitor, but it has to be sanded before recoating. The peel ply leaves a very nice textured surface that is ready to accept coats. Peel ply is one of those great tools to add to your bag of tricks. Thanks for watching!
Hi Capt. Jo, great tutorial, is the peelply a “one use” material or can it be used a few times. Also, I take it the bucket you used to clean your bubble buster is filled with acetone? Thanks again.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Yes, peel ply is one use and done. I use acetone primarily in my shop, but there are other solvents and cleaners some folks use.
Peel plys main purpose is amine blush removal when you are working with epoxy resin, it also smooths out the rough fiberglass texture but it leaves a perfect texture for receiving the next coat of materials rather it be paint or resin. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Good suggestion! I've been wanting to do that for a while. Was hoping to get some requests for something like that, so I will start putting some stuff together. Thanks for watching!
Well done video. I've got a severely crazed fiberglass top I need to restore for my 1958 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite. Do you folks sell supplies retail? Since your fairly close to where I live in Pensacola, I think I'd rather get the supplies I need from you folks rather than order online and not be sure what I'm actually going to get.
Well that sounds like a cool project! Thanks for asking about buying products directly, but we don't sell anything out of the shop.We do have Amazon links below every videos description with the supplies we use listed in every video, and when you buy through our Amazon links it does help support the channel that way. Glad you are enjoying the videos and we appreciate you watching and commenting!
Thanks! Not necessarily. You could go directly to gelcoat or primer and paint after the peel ply if you wanted. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Hi Joe, I am very much appreciating you handing on your great knowledge of this trade. I live on an older GRP boat with the inevitable gelcoat cracks and so on - so I need to develop some skills at these repairs. Tell me if I want to buy goods that you recommend - is that possible when I am not in the USA?? (I live in France). Kind regards
Many of the supplies we use are in links below the videos description. Amazon has a very good selection of materials we use, and buying through the Amazon links helps to support the channel. I hope this helps and thanks for watching all of the way from France 🇫🇷!
Saludos Joe, I’m about to embark on a stitch and glue 14’ skiff here in Puerto Rico. I follow your RUclips channel and looking to use epoxy for the fillets and gluing and polyester resin for the hull and deck. Here in PR the temperature avg is in the 80’s and was wondering which of the west system catalysts I should use normal or slow? Please let me know. Same for the poly resin? Thanks in advance. Capt Juan
Sounds like a great project! I wouldn't typically recommend using polyester resin over epoxy resin. There can often times be problems with the polyester bonding to the epoxy. If you want to use epoxy for the filets, which is think is a good choice due to its properties, I would recommend using epoxy for the entire project. With temps in the 80s med or slow hardener could work. It could depend on your experience level, if you can work fast with epoxy, then medium would be the way to go. If you would like more work time, then go with slow.You could also buy some of each, which probably isn't a bad idea.I hope this helps and thanks for watching all the way from Puerto Rico!
Thanks! No, peel ply is a one time use product. It is fairly cheap, though, and can be a big-time saver for sure. Fiberglass warehouse has a good supply of it, and you can use our fish bump tv code for a nice discount. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
You didn't need to thin out the primer resin? Love the channel. I've been laminating for 30 years and never thought of speeding up my work with a roller for chopped strand. I've been using a brush.
No, I don't typically thin the epoxy resin for priming. I do recommend grinding the plywood surface very aggressively to open up the fibers. Glad the roller tip was helpful!
@@FishBumpTV correct, I feel not so necessary to grind the surface with epoxy, though essential with polyester, especially if planed timber. I rub with 80 sandpaper across the grain. Polyester also needs a thinned coat first.
Hi. Really enjoying your channel. Is the peel ply reusable? And would you ever use it with gel coat to laminate and build up thickness before sanding/finishing to a high gloss?
It's not reusable it actually soaks up excess resin for a lean laminate and it's only used in the fiberglassing process as pva or poly vinyl alcohol could be used after your gelcoat application to cure the surface.
Awesome, thanks! No, peel ply is not reusable. You don't typically use peel ply over gelcoat, but I suppose you could if you only had gelcoat with wax and you wanted to apply multiple layers without sanding between coats. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Captain Joe, can you overlap the peel ply material on the ply wood area.... i understand it's important to make sure the edges are overlapping to ensure you can peel it off. Thanks in advance
Yes, you can overlap it with no problem. You are right though, it is important to leave a loose edge to start your peel from. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I recently read that epoxy resin does not react with the binding agent in CSM like polyester. is this true? i missed it in the vid if you covered this. from what i understand there are epoxy specific CSM.
That is correct. Epoxy resin doesn't melt the binders that hold csm together. There are different csms in Europe that have powder binders that work better with csm. I believe you can get powder binder csm state side, but it is not common. As a side note, conventional csm can be used with epoxy, but it doesn't work very well in my opinion. I hope this helps,and thanks for watching!
Hi from Mauritius. I have not seen or even heard about peel ply here. I intend to build a, small plywood boat with epoxy. Can plastic sheets be used as a replacement. Thnx beforehand for your reply.
A plastic film is not going to perform the same way as peel ply. Plastic is smooth and non porous, so if applied over fiberglass or gelcoat, it will release leaving a slick surface that will need to be sanded before applying the next coat. Peel ply will leave a textured surface that doesn't require sanding in most cases, and will also remove amine blush if you are using an epoxy that produces a blush. I hope this helps and thanks for watching all of the way from Mauritius 🇲🇺!
@@FishBumpTV, hello, thnx for your information. No plywood boat construction over here. Only polyester resin and chopped mat used. Will have to build a poor man sailboat.
Ready for polyurethane or more epoxy. First learnd of peel plyfrom dick rutan . 30 minutes if conversation. He was sanding on a long easy in the middle of a shopping mall not one person but me was interested.
We get issues with air gun blow down from oldish compressor supply imparting compressor oil contamination, in fact we would also get issues with air stapler for joining timber core strips imparting oil so stopped doing it for ski manufacturing.
My question is more home repair. I have a 16x7 garage door thats wood,, the long boards are finger jointed, and with the house over 33 years old the glues they used on the finger joints has broken down I could rebuild the door and replace each part, but i also know fiberglass can add enough structure back to it and water proof it from flexing a new door like it is cost 4k to 8k bucks, and i can't see sticking that kind of money into it When i know i can make it ridged agine and stiff enough not to flex when its cold outside and get ice stuck to the ground, plus it add some insulation properties. It has to look like wood i can do with paint and keep the paint from peeling so what could be done to make it stronger and hold its color? I was using a layered effect to add a wood looking color. Now the reason i want a wood door and not metal is i live in the midwest and high winds in tornado ally a metal door will just blow in but a wood door holds up to higher Wind the reason most houses fall apart is the door gives way the roof flys off and the house flys apart and blows away. But if its solid its not moving unless its a strong F5 In a strong F5 most hard cement structures hold up to the wind ecpt maybe a fast built home depot or lowes where the stand up preform walls. Anyway i need the door stronger and the paint not to peel as far as wind its only going to do so much. But its better then thin sheet metal.
I think epoxy is the way to go for your project. You can take epoxy resin and make a whole assortment of glues and fillers. I have a video on this topic here on the channel. West system is a very popular brand. There is also a company called system 3 that has very good epoxy products. Most of the materials we use can be bought through Amazon links that are posted below the videos description. I hope this helps and I wish you the best with your garage door project!
That's a good question. Most resins do not bond or adhere well to plastics in general, so I would think not. Epoxy resin would probably be your best bet though, and the surface of the model car would need to be sanded aggressively. I hope this helpsand thanks for watching!
A cheat for wetting out 1708 with epoxy is to sandwich it between two sheets of visqueen. Then roll it out with a roller until saturated. When completely wetted out, take 1 side of the visqueen off and transport the cloth to whatever you're working on.
It works with epoxy, vinylester and polyester resins that's why I don't understand why you haven't used peel ply for the inside of your top...I'm pretty sure it was possible to apply directly your Top coat without sanding like you've done, saving you lot of time. Moreover the adhesion is perfect too!
Yes, I am familiar with how it works. I wanted to show the fairing process here on the channel. There will be plenty of chances for me to use peel ply in the future. Thanks for watching
I don't have a boat. I am not building a boat. I don't fish. I haven't gone fishing since i was a kid. But somehow I keep coming back to watch your videos. I find them very entertaining and informative. I feel like if I would ever want to build a boat, this channel is the place to start.
Same here!
That is awesome! I really appreciate your comment! Who knows, maybe you will get inspired and build or restore something amazing!
Thank you!
That's what got me hooked into his channel, I just liked the way he worked, laid it all out, and overall ease in showing/telling
how to use products. Now I am trying to source materials to build a houseboat. peace
Next year, "i got a boat"! 😂
Good video re wetting out and peel ply. Thank you. Some local kite board builders use the red striped peel ply to create a non-skid texture with no paint. They squeegee really hard after the roller to get extra unnecessary resin out in order to reduce weight. Some Olympic style kite boards can weigh as little as 7.5 pounds reducing the swing weight significantly. Many hydrofoil appendages are done in cast aluminum or steel molds with extreme clamping pressure. Example, the strut/mast on the Hydro foil you see me on in this photograph has about 75 layers of carbon within a half inch or less.
Wow, very interesting comment! Thanks for watching!
I like the yellow plastic squeegees for using peal ply, it is great stuff for epoxy, my preferred resin
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Joe, I’m glad you gained all the knowledge from your dad that you did. You (and Pops) are teaching a lot of people invaluable skills and information, and you do it with a smoothness that only an expert can do. Thanks for what ya do, and thanks to the fam and everybody working in the background to make your content. It’s great stuff!
Wow, I appreciate your comment very much! Thanks
Joe, do you have a video that shows how to glass the edges of the flat piece you just did here? Many thanks for passing on your expertise to us!
Maybe the how-to fiberglass over plywood or our how-to waterproof plywood videos. I am pretty sure that I have that technique somewhere on the channel, but I'm not sure exactly which one. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
My favorite use of peel ply is to squeegee it out which yields light finished parts almost as if you had vacuum bagged it. Basically use it to get out any excess resin without introducing air.
Thanks for the tip and for watching!
Great intro video to peel ply. I’ve built both ply craft and PVC/ epoxy sandwich boats and one other advantage of peel ply is you can return to an epoxy surface weeks or months later, remove the peel ply and continue epoxy work as if it was fresh laid, without having to sand to expose fresh material. Which is super handy and time/work saving on bigger or multifaceted jobs.
I guess we all have our favourite techniques. Personally I almost never use ribbed rollers and rarely use brushes. I almost always use cheap 4” disposable paint rollers - the 1” diameter variety. The advantages I find are they are great at “carrying” epoxy from your pot to your job (especially on small, vertical or difficult situations) and excellent at spreading, evening out, and controlling and removing excess epoxy. Which is particularly handy on larger surfaces. None of which ribbed rollers do well - their claim to fame being basically bubble removal. But I’ve never had problems with bubbles provided you work the surface well and saturate the cloth. Every time I’ve tried ribbed rollers I quickly go back to my paint rollers : )
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I built my 31ft racing trimaran (sailboat) in the 90's with carbon fiber over strip planked balsa. I used peel ply for every surface and it saved a lot of time eliminating sanding between lay ups. And sanding the carbon is not recommended because it cuts/weakens the fibers. I got my peel ply from fabric stores (100% nylon suit liner).
BTW, when removing (peeling off) the peel ply, if you turn the lights off, you get a free light show. I guess it's the static electricity released as you peel the peel ply off. But you might as well keep the peel ply on until you are ready for the next bond or lay up because it keeps the surface under 100% clean.
I always liked using a plastic squeegee to wet out the carbon and lay down the peel ply. And plastic/metal tools were cleaned easily of epoxy using vinegar.
Very cool! Thanks for sharing your experience with the channel. I will have to try the lights out peel ply trick!
Love your content. You are so generous to share with your son and all of us. How did you pick up such an impressive vocabulary? All your words seem so thoughtful and well chosen.
Also, I love your advice regarding cherishing your parents and loved ones because no one knows how long we have together .
You make it look so easy
Thanks, I appreciate that! It really doesn't have to be that difficult. Do your research, plan you work, line up all your materials, start with small projects, and work your way up.
Another great tip is to layout your FG cloth between sheets of 3 mill clear plastic. Then you can use a hotel keycard to move the resin through and off the layup. You can also lay this sandwich on your part, sharpie right on the plastic, cut it to shape, then when you are ready to apply, you remove the bottom plastic and apply it like a sticker. The remaining sheet keeps the fibers from moving around. Once you apply it, press it down, remove the remaining plastic, then apply the peel ply. Very clean technique that we use in aviation.
Great tip, I will have to try that! Thanks for watching and commenting!
My mistake was wetting out on only one piece of 3 mil plastic and trying to lift it off that and place it on the board. What a mess. I'll try your method and hope the extra piece of plastic keeps everything together when I pull the bottom piece off like a sticker. Thanks for the tip!
Another super helpful tutorial Joe - thanks! I am planning on building a 15 ft lightweight,stitch and glue, utility skiff in the next few months and am REALLY hoping you do a series on such a project.
Glad it was helpful! Sounds like you have a cool project planned! We have the 21ft Blazer project boat scheduled first, then maybe a stitch and glue skiff. We will just have to see how it all works out. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
OMG! This stuff would have saved me so much time on my build. Major regrets not using it when I did my bottom. These vids are awesome and help a lot of folks like me.
Yes, there are certain applications for peel ply that can really save some time and effort! Glad you are enjoying the videos and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Great video. I've been working with fiberglass for a long time , but I always learn something from these videos.
Glad to help! Thanks!
They also spray a light wax on fir plywood when it is made so it will be water repellant. This is on sheathing grades. Another good reason to sand it. We also do a fast setting flood coat thinned down with a bit of acetone so it soaks in. If we don't do this we can grab a corner and easily peel it off.
Interesting! Thanks for the info and for watching!
Lost my dad years ago, I laugh almost daily as I do stuff that he spent time teaching when I was young, he also let me problem solve to work things out so I was better able to apply in life.
Great video, quick and easily nothing over the top, a few tips along the way targeted at the DIY guy not the professional. Keep up the great work, wishing you and your family the best of health in the future, health is wealth.
"Kia Kaha" - "Stay Strong" from New Zealand.
I’ve been working with epoxies for thirty plus years, I found your technique and communication skills outstanding. Well done and best to you
Off topic, but I hope your shop and family did well through the storm! I know yall are used to it, I’m a Florida cracker & we do the dance every year as well.
Yes, we are all good. Thanks for asking!
Wow, thank you very much! Glad that you are enjoying the channel!
Wow, thanks so much! Glad you are enjoying the channel!
Joe, your videos are always so simple to understand, thank you
Wow, thanks! Trying my best not to overcomplicated things for you all! Appreciate you watching
Another great video, Joe! Thank you for guiding the DIY boaters!
Thanks so much! I'm glad to help!
Your videos are all very instructive, I do appreciate you producing them all. Cheers, Richard
Awesome! Thanks for the nice comment!
Thanks Capt! That peel ply looks fantastic for small jobs. No need to sand before gel coat is huge.
Yep, it is pretty cool stuff! I will be showing more applications for it in upcoming videos, so stay tuned!
Thank you Captain Joe for another Great video.. Sorry about Dad, I lost mine 2 years ago christmas but I sure did learn alot from him like you.... Your son is awesome and you guys are SO FORTUNATE to have each other as he is in the presence of not only a Master craftsman but one that Truly cares about him and theres no school comparable to that as even when youre not actually teaching him hes watching you and picking up on your skills... SO AMAZING!!... Im 60 with a bad bad back but my last boat was a 38 scarab avs... I built the 502 motors and repaired a ton of transom rot but it was a nice boat to have in my 30s.... OK, Ill stop going on but I wiish you and yours the best..... Thanks for some sunday knowledge and Ill support til the end!
Wow, sorry to hear about your Dad! I sure do miss mine. Glad I am getting to spend lots of time with my son, I hope he can use some of what he is learning to help him with his adult life someday. Happy we can work on these videos and share with you all! Sounds like you have worked on some cool projects in the past. I get the bad back thing, mine is acting up on occasion as I get older, and it sure isn't any fun! I appreciate you watching and commenting and I wish you all the best!
6am in Oz and watching again - thanks again for sharing Peel ply aspects with epoxy resin- the rotary cutting scissors is on my list of shopping!!
Fantastic! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Captain Joe!
Another great video! Keep up the great work! I know there are many of us out here that really appreciate what you are doing!
All the best from California!🧡
Thanks, will do! Appreciate you watching from Beautiful California!
My home county in Arkansas has many bass boat manufacturers. The best of them allow their workers to experiment and learn.
An interesting side product that one made was caskets that matched a favorite boat in color scheme and finish.
I never worked at any of the plants but had many neighbors that did.
The worst of the employers would have people that still smelled like resin after they had been away from work for the Christmas vacation. Ventilation beats PPE, PPE is better than nothing.
Interesting, thanks for sharing! I think good ventilation and quality ppe are both important when working around most of these products for sure! It funny that you mentioned this because I am posting a Fiberglass Safety video this afternoon.So stay tuned, and thanks for watching!
Peel ply is not available in my area so I have substituted plain old 3 mil poly sheeting. It is a life saver for working overhead, keeping the resin from dripping on you. And when cured it peels right off and leaves a nice smooth surface. Someday I hope to find some peel ply but for now the poly sheeting is a second best option. Great video.
I heard someone online say that some of the dollar store shower curtain that is more like fabric than plastic makes a good substitute. Not sure...I haven't actually tried it. Seems plausible.
Thanks for the tip! Sounds like it works great.
No, Thai isn’t as good.. I also use the plastic sheeting to wet it out and place the glass in place, but it doesn’t work the same as peel ply. If you use clear plastic on top, it’ll be too shinny to apply more later. You want the peelply or rip stop nylon on top. The peelply will absorb some excess resin, and leave a cleaner surface that doesn’t need sanding to apply more layers if needed. You can also put on peelply, then some blue paper towels on top to absorb the excess.
Before starting the build of my 31' trimaran, I visited a guy in CO doing the same boat and same material (carbon over duracore balsa strips). Prior to the boat, he had built 2 experimental aircraft. He told me 100% nylon suit liner from the fabric store worked fine for the peel ply (much cheaper there also). It worked for his planes and boats, and my tri that's still holding together after 30 years.
Joe, I appreciate your down to earth approach and honesty in your videos. I have been working in the automotive industry on both cars and boats for years, and truly enjoy your content. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, your comment is much appreciated!
Greetings from the west coast of Scotland, thanks for this valuable information, be renewing my transom soon and I will certainly be using peel ply, great finish , thanks again pal.
Glad you are enjoying the videos, and thanks for watching all of the way from Scotland!
Nice show Capt. Joe…. Excellent primer on peal ply. Thank you for sharing your time and many talents. All the best. Chuck
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed the peel ply video!
Epoxy tip:
White vinegar for 1'st bath cleaning. Then it just takes a smidgen of acetone to get the final bit.
Saves acetone, money and your exposure. :)
Thanks! I appreciate you watching and commenting!
20 years ago I built three kayaks with marine plywood and expoxy and fiberglass. Laid up and wetted out several leagent of glass and sanded down each layer with an orbital sander. Boy, I wish peel ply had been available back then.
Thanks for sharing! Yep, the peel ply would definitely have saved you some time!
Thanks for sharing this item to consider for fiberglassing. I probably won't use it but good to be aware
You are welcome, glad you enjoyed the video. You might be surprised at it's uses once you try it, pretty neat stuff! Thanks for watching
Starting over on my second project boar and loving the channel. Both a refresher and picking up some new techniques. A request for your next experiment... how about anothe gel coat durability test over this peel ply surface, please.
Thanks.
Great suggestion! Thanks for watching!
Hi Captain Joe, we'll appreciate love your videos
Wow, thanks so much!
I just use wax paper on small jobs. Learned it when making a fiberglass hood.
Yes, you can use wax paper as an air inhibitor, but it has to be sanded before recoating. The peel ply leaves a very nice textured surface that is ready to accept coats. Peel ply is one of those great tools to add to your bag of tricks. Thanks for watching!
That is so cool the process, excellent footage amazing shots, very clear and focused
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the nice comment!
Great content. Glad I stumbled across you. Keep it up.
Thanks, welcome to the channel!
Another great easy to understand video, I’m learning a lot here thank you
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
Good video well done thank you
Thank you!
Well done man, thx
No problem 👍 you are welcome!
Love your content & presenting style - informative and entertaining, great job Joe!
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate that!
Great video Captain Joe! I love your work as youtuber ❤
Thanks a ton!
Hi Capt. Jo, great tutorial, is the peelply a “one use” material or can it be used a few times. Also, I take it the bucket you used to clean your bubble buster is filled with acetone? Thanks again.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Yes, peel ply is one use and done. I use acetone primarily in my shop, but there are other solvents and cleaners some folks use.
Another great educational video, thank you very much
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment!
Great Video!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Interesting... could use a little more description of the purpose though. I am not clear on why i might need this product. Thanks Joe
Peel plys main purpose is amine blush removal when you are working with epoxy resin, it also smooths out the rough fiberglass texture but it leaves a perfect texture for receiving the next coat of materials rather it be paint or resin. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Show us some pictures of your dad and some of the boats he built sometime.
Good suggestion! I've been wanting to do that for a while. Was hoping to get some requests for something like that, so I will start putting some stuff together. Thanks for watching!
Great video! If you laid this material on the final layer of a deck, would it help hide the joints where wood/coosa boards meet?
Thanks! Yes, it should help hide seams and transitions. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Well done video. I've got a severely crazed fiberglass top I need to restore for my 1958 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite. Do you folks sell supplies retail? Since your fairly close to where I live in Pensacola, I think I'd rather get the supplies I need from you folks rather than order online and not be sure what I'm actually going to get.
Well that sounds like a cool project! Thanks for asking about buying products directly, but we don't sell anything out of the shop.We do have Amazon links below every videos description with the supplies we use listed in every video, and when you buy through our Amazon links it does help support the channel that way. Glad you are enjoying the videos and we appreciate you watching and commenting!
Great video Joe, thanks. After the peel ply, would you then give another coat of epoxy before finishing the job with several coats of paint?
Thanks! Not necessarily. You could go directly to gelcoat or primer and paint after the peel ply if you wanted. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Hi Joe, I am very much appreciating you handing on your great knowledge of this trade. I live on an older GRP boat with the inevitable gelcoat cracks and so on - so I need to develop some skills at these repairs. Tell me if I want to buy goods that you recommend - is that possible when I am not in the USA?? (I live in France). Kind regards
Many of the supplies we use are in links below the videos description. Amazon has a very good selection of materials we use, and buying through the Amazon links helps to support the channel. I hope this helps and thanks for watching all of the way from France 🇫🇷!
Saludos Joe, I’m about to embark on a stitch and glue 14’ skiff here in Puerto Rico. I follow your RUclips channel and looking to use epoxy for the fillets and gluing and polyester resin for the hull and deck. Here in PR the temperature avg is in the 80’s and was wondering which of the west system catalysts I should use normal or slow? Please let me know. Same for the poly resin?
Thanks in advance.
Capt Juan
Sounds like a great project! I wouldn't typically recommend using polyester resin over epoxy resin. There can often times be problems with the polyester bonding to the epoxy. If you want to use epoxy for the filets, which is think is a good choice due to its properties, I would recommend using epoxy for the entire project. With temps in the 80s med or slow hardener could work. It could depend on your experience level, if you can work fast with epoxy, then medium would be the way to go. If you would like more work time, then go with slow.You could also buy some of each, which probably isn't a bad idea.I hope this helps and thanks for watching all the way from Puerto Rico!
Great video! Thanks
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
Just subscribed ~ Thank you ~ Cheers
Awesome! Welcome to the channel and thanks for watching!
Great guidance and information will look for your other video's, 🐼🐼🏴🏴
Awesome! Thank you!
Great content thx
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Ótima explicação, obrigado por compartilhar. Seguindo do Brasil.
Glad to help and thanks for watching from Brazil!
Great video!, can you reuse the peel ply?
Thanks! No, peel ply is a one time use product. It is fairly cheap, though, and can be a big-time saver for sure. Fiberglass warehouse has a good supply of it, and you can use our fish bump tv code for a nice discount. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
It would be interesting to see how this would work on a surfboard. Larry
I don't build surfboards, but I am pretty sure these materials are used frequently in that application. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Joe, you've got a great voice.
Thanks!!
You didn't need to thin out the primer resin?
Love the channel. I've been laminating for 30 years and never thought of speeding up my work with a roller for chopped strand.
I've been using a brush.
Not with epoxy.
No, I don't typically thin the epoxy resin for priming. I do recommend grinding the plywood surface very aggressively to open up the fibers. Glad the roller tip was helpful!
@@FishBumpTV correct, I feel not so necessary to grind the surface with epoxy, though essential with polyester, especially if planed timber. I rub with 80 sandpaper across the grain. Polyester also needs a thinned coat first.
Does peel-ply work with polyester as well for a smooth finished surface?
Yes, it sure does!
Can I use peel ply on polyester resin? keep the videos coming Joe good job crew!
Yes
Sure, it works with polyester, vinyl ester and epoxy with no problem.
Could you guys do a vid on doing roll/spray on gel coat then brought from sanding to polish to show room finish???
Sure, I am working on a video like that right now, so stay tuned!
@@FishBumpTV you’re awesome and much appreciated! Told the wife about your charter! Gonna try it out one day! Thank you 🙏 again!!!
@mattdrake803 Very cool! Uploading a gelcoat spraying and a wet sanding and polish video this weekend. Hope you enjoy, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV just seen it earlier it was awesome can’t wait to see you start polishing! I’m gonna spray the inner hull before floor and foaming
Hi. Really enjoying your channel. Is the peel ply reusable? And would you ever use it with gel coat to laminate and build up thickness before sanding/finishing to a high gloss?
It's not reusable it actually soaks up excess resin for a lean laminate and it's only used in the fiberglassing process as pva or poly vinyl alcohol could be used after your gelcoat application to cure the surface.
Awesome, thanks! No, peel ply is not reusable. You don't typically use peel ply over gelcoat, but I suppose you could if you only had gelcoat with wax and you wanted to apply multiple layers without sanding between coats. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
First. Thanks for the video.
Haha, Nice!
Captain Joe, can you overlap the peel ply material on the ply wood area.... i understand it's important to make sure the edges are overlapping to ensure you can peel it off. Thanks in advance
Yes, you can overlap it with no problem. You are right though, it is important to leave a loose edge to start your peel from. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
what is the best plywood should be use for boat floor? thank you
I have had good success with marine Fir in 3/4 inch. 3/4 coosa board in 26 pound density can also work good as a wood substitute.
Captian are you and Logan the only ones building and doing repairs in the shop? How many projects per year are coming out of the shop currently?
Can you or would you use this with polyester or vinyl ester resin as well as epoxy?
Yes, peel ply works with all three resin types. Thanks for watching!
Joe what is the name of your company that is building all the boats.? I would like to check it out. Any videos of the company ?
Capn Joe, maybe you should start to do some quick tips videos. Like some short ones here and there that are 3-4 mins each!
Thanks for the suggestion, and for watching! Who knows, maybe we will do some shorter length content.
Peel ply is mans best friend.
Haha! It is a great product! Thanks for watching
I recently read that epoxy resin does not react with the binding agent in CSM like polyester. is this true? i missed it in the vid if you covered this. from what i understand there are epoxy specific CSM.
That is correct. Epoxy resin doesn't melt the binders that hold csm together. There are different csms in Europe that have powder binders that work better with csm. I believe you can get powder binder csm state side, but it is not common. As a side note, conventional csm can be used with epoxy, but it doesn't work very well in my opinion. I hope this helps,and thanks for watching!
Hi from Mauritius. I have not seen or even heard about peel ply here. I intend to build a, small plywood boat with epoxy. Can plastic sheets be used as a replacement. Thnx beforehand for your reply.
A plastic film is not going to perform the same way as peel ply. Plastic is smooth and non porous, so if applied over fiberglass or gelcoat, it will release leaving a slick surface that will need to be sanded before applying the next coat. Peel ply will leave a textured surface that doesn't require sanding in most cases, and will also remove amine blush if you are using an epoxy that produces a blush. I hope this helps and thanks for watching all of the way from Mauritius 🇲🇺!
@@FishBumpTV, hello, thnx for your information. No plywood boat construction over here. Only polyester resin and chopped mat used. Will have to build a poor man sailboat.
Thank you, I have been doing it wrong for years.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Ready for polyurethane or more epoxy. First learnd of peel plyfrom dick rutan . 30 minutes if conversation. He was sanding on a long easy in the middle of a shopping mall not one person but me was interested.
Interesting! Thanks for sharing your experience and for watching!
Can you do a video on crazing cracks?
As soon as I get a project boat with cracked and crazed gelcoat, I will make a repair video for you all. Thanks for watching!
I do paint with Alexseal paints and fillers
Cool, thanks for watching!
We get issues with air gun blow down from oldish compressor supply imparting compressor oil contamination, in fact we would also get issues with air stapler for joining timber core strips imparting oil so stopped doing it for ski manufacturing.
I have a quality water trap and filter at the compressor, so it hasn't been a problem for us. Thanks for watching and commenting!
My question is more home repair.
I have a 16x7 garage door thats wood,, the long boards are finger jointed, and with the house over 33 years old the glues they used on the finger joints has broken down
I could rebuild the door and replace each part, but i also know fiberglass can add enough structure back to it and water proof it from flexing a new door like it is cost 4k to 8k bucks, and i can't see sticking that kind of money into it
When i know i can make it ridged agine and stiff enough not to flex when its cold outside and get ice stuck to the ground, plus it add some insulation properties.
It has to look like wood i can do with paint and keep the paint from peeling so what could be done to make it stronger and hold its color?
I was using a layered effect to add a wood looking color.
Now the reason i want a wood door and not metal is i live in the midwest and high winds in tornado ally a metal door will just blow in but a wood door holds up to higher
Wind the reason most houses fall apart is the door gives way the roof flys off and the house flys apart and blows away. But if its solid its not moving unless its a strong F5
In a strong F5 most hard cement structures hold up to the wind ecpt maybe a fast built home depot or lowes where the stand up preform walls.
Anyway i need the door stronger and the paint not to peel as far as wind its only going to do so much.
But its better then thin sheet metal.
I think epoxy is the way to go for your project. You can take epoxy resin and make a whole assortment of glues and fillers. I have a video on this topic here on the channel. West system is a very popular brand. There is also a company called system 3 that has very good epoxy products. Most of the materials we use can be bought through Amazon links that are posted below the videos description. I hope this helps and I wish you the best with your garage door project!
Do you ever vacuum bag parts?
I plan on showing that process in the near future, so stay tuned!
Can the peel ply be used more than once? I guess it gets clogged with resin in some way so it cannot be reused.
Nope, it's a once and done kind of thing. It is relatively cheap though. Thanks for watching!
Try using a squeegee on the peal ply to remove excess resin.
Yep, it works good. I will try to show that in a future video. Thanks for watching!
HOW DO ESTIMATE SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR PROJECT? AND WHAT PRODUCT WILL STICK TO INSUKLATION BOARD? LIKE CORNUING PINK EXPANDED CLOSED CELL X?? FORGT
Can you use fiber glass on a model car
That's a good question. Most resins do not bond or adhere well to plastics in general, so I would think not. Epoxy resin would probably be your best bet though, and the surface of the model car would need to be sanded aggressively. I hope this helpsand thanks for watching!
Can you vacuum bag the peel ply?
That's not the typical application for peel ply, or at least I haven't seen it done. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
A cheat for wetting out 1708 with epoxy is to sandwich it between two sheets of visqueen. Then roll it out with a roller until saturated. When completely wetted out, take 1 side of the visqueen off and transport the cloth to whatever you're working on.
Thanks for the tip and for watching!
Is there a "side" to peel ply? Or, can you place either side down on the fabric?
No particular side. You can apply it either way. Hopefully this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks! Great channel!
It works with epoxy, vinylester and polyester resins that's why I don't understand why you haven't used peel ply for the inside of your top...I'm pretty sure it was possible to apply directly your Top coat without sanding like you've done, saving you lot of time. Moreover the adhesion is perfect too!
Yes, I am familiar with how it works. I wanted to show the fairing process here on the channel. There will be plenty of chances for me to use peel ply in the future. Thanks for watching
I have a 24ft with a little bit of dock rash if you want to do a repair video.🤙
Haha, I hear ya! Maybe once I get through with some of my other projects that I have scheduled!
I wonder how much CGI you are using as your clothing is perfect and not covered in epoxy...lol
Hahaha, yep! I recently posted a video on how I stay clean while working with fiberglass. You might enjoy it! Thanks for watching