HOW TO REPAIR FIBERGLASS DAMAGE WITH LIMITED ACCESS!
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2020
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As a beginner, the takeaways for me are: 1) don't be afraid to open up the damaged spot. Gotta break those eggs to make an omlete. 2) It's not going to be a one a one-and-done deal. Come back as many times as you need to effect a good surface.
As a commercial fishing boat builder/repair guy myself, I always appreciate your videos. Thanks for taking the time to make em'. You teach and explain so well
Wet and stick technique is cleaner, thanks for sharing
I've been doing body work for over 30 years and this is the best fiberglass repair I've ever seen. I am now a subscriber
This is expected fiberglass repair. I have been repairing racing kayaks occasionally for two years. And this is my regular level. If you have been working in fiberglass repairs for 30 years, I believe, you can do this job with onle left hand and closed eyes. 😂
My dad repaired car bodies, and that was bloody good work quality!
I'm not a boater and do not plan on doing any work on any boat. Yet, I watched this whole video. Awesome to see a true craftsman at work, made me feel like I can now repair holes in boats. LOL
I plan on doing a boat restoration one day and watch all your videos in the mean time. Each one teaches me a ton and gets me more excited to take on a project. Thanks so much!
Hurricane Fiona lodged a 30 sail boat under the hull of my 22 foot Cape Island fishing boat . I have a fist sized hole that still has Woven Roving in it . This video has shown me what to do to get me back on the water this Spring . Thanks for you expertise and laid-back way of teaching . Love your site . All the best from Nova Scotia ☮
I worked for Hatters Yacht's back in the 80's and learned allot of the fiberglass trade that has lended itself many times over the years. You are very attentive to details which translates to a professional finish. Great video!
It has been decades since my fiberglass repair days. Pleased to see this no hype, good advice for DYIs.
I am a dentist who does similar stuff on a smaller scale with teeth every day. Really enjoyed watching the care you put into surface prep, materials choice, and application. It is nice to watch someone who cares.. Will keep this in mind when I am attempting some gelcoat crack repairs on my SeaDoo Speedster. Thank you...............
I can relate to that because I have been working with (my private) boats and doing small repairs almost like this since 1988 i guess and everytime i have been to the dentist fixing my teeth I have compared it to my work with my boats :)
Planning to fix a hood on a semi-truck.
Figured watching a boat video would give top of the line information and I was not disappointed! Thank you!
Probably the best repair for a one sided fiberglass hull video I’ve seen. You’ve done a great job at explaining a one sided and both sided repair. Helped me a lot thank you my friend.
That's nice work Andy :) Glad you posted this, one-sided patches are starting to get all too common on restoration jobs! We always make time to share your work!
Thank you Andy for this video I used this for repairing glass fibre transmission unelected on Land Rover Defender the finished results is fantastic and saved me lot of money for a new one. Many thanks
I respect your passion for teaching others.. well done mate 👍🏻
Thanks for making this video...i own a boat detailing business and most of our jobs our gelcoat restoration plus compound polishing and sometimes I am asked if we do fiberglass repairs. This video helped. Thnx Andy!👍👍
My Man.... ! THIS IS the Video that was MISSING on NET to teach us all Structural Repair ! Great. Thank you !
Thank you for you taking the time to do this video for all of us. This is very nice and may help me big time since I may get an old wrecked canoe very soon.
Brilliant repair, watched a lot of glass fibre workers whilst building kit cars in England, never saw anyone better! Regards from UK Pete.
I have a 22 foot mooshead canoe. Has a small hole/crack at the bow (above water at least) but ive been wanting to do this to it just to keep it from spreading any further. Thanks for the video. Good explaining on everything.
Hi Andy,
Fellow marine fibreglass technician and instructor here.
Love what you are doing to help educate DIYers on safe fibreglass repair technique.
One word of caution I present to all DIYers is to not undertake "critical to safety" repairs, until their personal skill is verified in practice. "Skill and Ability" requires more than book reading or video watching.
Only after a DIYers skills are proven, repeatedly, on 'non-critical" FRP work, should they attempt "critical" FRP which includes "structural", "under waterline", and any work that could result in vessel structural integrity loss or sinking.
I strongly recommend a "test" material bond be applied near the actual repair, at the same time as the repair. After curing, if the test bond fails, the repair should obviously not be relied on, and redone after failure cause determined and corrected.
I have a couple of issues with this video.
1. A 12:1 taper is the actual recommendation for a single sided repair. This is more than sufficient to ensure the mechanical bond is such that the repair is stronger than original substrate, whether epoxy or polyester resin is used.
2. For a double-sided repair, a 6:1 taper on each side is recommended.
Explanation:
1. Single Side Repair:
a) Force applied opposite repair side - Almost all of the resistance to failure is based solely on the mechanical bond. A repair with a 12:1 taper on a mechanical bond is "as strong" as the original substrate (and actually already includes significant safety margin).
b) Force applied to the repair side - Added to the mechanical bond, which is as strong as the original composite, we also have the physical overlap (attempting to push a large piece of cured new FRP through a very small hole in old FRP.)
In other words, a 12:1 taper is more than "adequate" and a greater taper provides no real benefit other than increased safety margin to compensate poor practice/technique. This is actually a bad idea, as there is a degree of bad practice, that simply cannot be compensated by any means.
Therefore, it is imperative the DIYer employ sound practice, rather than attempt to compensate poor practice.
2. Double Sided Repair:
The resistance to failure is achieved by both physical overlap and mechanical bond on either side. Therefore a 6:1 taper is more than adequate. Again there is no real benefit to attempting a repair, more than, more than adequate, and attempting to compensate poor practice with increased taper is still poor practice.
One Side Access Repair Technique
I am not a fan of the technique used in this video.
Another technique is to:
1. Make the hole roughly oval or rectangular (if not already).
2. Cut a piece of FRP backing material that overlaps the hole, but with width narrower than hole length.
3. Drill a hole in the centre and insert a piece of string.
4. Put a stopper knot in the string and draw tight to the hole, ensuring it won't pull through.
5. Abrade the backside of the hole and FRP backing plate.
6. Taper the front side of the hole as indicated above.
7. Dust and solvent wipe the abraded surfaces.
8. Apply thickened resin (peanut butter consistency*) to abraded surfaces.
9. Insert the blanking plate into the hole.
10. Rotate the blanking plate and sock up to the backside drawing on the piece of string.
11. Tie the piece of string to a fixture or tape the backing plate to hold it in place.
12. Once adequately cured layup, fill, fair, and finish as usual.
This will eliminate the sag in the layup, reduce reliance on fill, and best match the original layup thickness and strength.
Note: Everyone, from DIYer to seasoned professional (and most certainly including myself), are still learning until on the wrong side of the sod.
Thanks for posting Andy; keep up the great work, and Happy New Year!
Rod Brandon
President - Sheen Marine
Oops, forgot to define the "*" associated with "Peanut Butter Consistency".
After one of my "Fibreglass Repair" presentations, a DIYer advised me that he always performed his own repairs because he cannot afford to hire a pro and after all, "it's so easy".
He then proceeded to tell me how he mixed peanut butter with epoxy to thicken it.
I asked him to "say that again" to ensure I heard correctly.
Yup!
I attempted to advise that one should never mix Peanut Butter with epoxy (unless trying to attract rodents ;-) and that the guide he was referring to actually suggests to add a filler (such as cabosil, microballoons, or fibres) in such quantity as to achieve a "Peanut Butter Consistency" and that it does not mean to add actual Peanut Butter.
After some discussion, he suggested we agree to disagree.
Hope this brings you a smile.
Happy, Happy New Year!
Rod Brandon
President - Sheen Marine
6 months later I hope you both are still watching your replies. I have a 5th wheel rv that I dropped on the bed rails of my truck. I really cannot access the back of the 2 dings. the areas are about 6" by 12" very contoured. I have years of professional drywall patching behind me but never have done fiberglass work. Rod, I cannot quite follow your modified steps to Andy's video.
I think the two ovals need to be cut out.
I am planning on doing a 1 sided repair just like his only preceed by adding a fringe piece of glass on the inside coming out about 1" around the hole as best as I can within the cut out. Leaving the extending fiberglass uncoated.
Then merge the top glass with the inside layer on the next coat. Is this in anyway something like what you suggested?
Also am considering sliding a few pieces of wood coated with metal tape, screwed lengthwise to the perimeter to give me the profile. I think the metal tape will keep the resins from sticking and the wood may fall into the cavity after backing out the screws.
Fill the screw holes later.
Finish like Andy as best as I can.
Do you guys think this might work? Thanks for your help. Oh, what brand of peanut butter do you recommend?
A bit late, but a key concept here is that the “FRP backing plate” Rob mentioned is quite rigid, usually made by laying up one or more layers of glass cloth and resin on release plastic and allowing it to harden. This layup is then peeled off the plastic and used as described above to bridge the hole and define the contour of the repair. Often this backing piece can be created right on top of an adjacent undamaged area so that it more closely matches the curvature of the damaged area, which will minimize the effort spent matching the repair with the surrounding contours.
Once fitted under the damaged area, the backer is bonded in place behind the damaged area using a thickened resin putty which is allowed to cure before the outer layup of the repair is applied. It helps if you remove any squeeze-out around the perimeter of the repair taper so the outside glass cloth can lay smoothly across the transition from repair taper and onto the backing plate.
I was raised in a full service garage with a body shop. Our body shop guy would use wire mesh behind a hole as you suggested then Bondo over it to fill. If it was a flat surface of course he would braze in a piece of sheet metal. Thanks for your very helpful comments and opinions.
I figured that if I watch some boating fiberglass repairs, I could figure out how to cut the useless shelves off my bathroom tub surround and patch the holes. I absolutely love the way you explained everything! In conclusion, foam, 1708, and spraying the whole unit should fix it up quite well.
great video 76 years and still picking up useful tips .loved the three patch wetting out . and application . I was donnington park gt champion in 1980 . i made the plaster plug and took a top and bottom mold . then plasticell bulkheads woven roving both sides . no steel chassis only a molded in roll over cage to comply with the regs . 12 lap races and only the second place car on the same lap as me and that would have been lapped 1/2 way around the following lap . my GROUND EFFECT underbelly shape produced so much downforce that I could take the old haripin flat and braking was after 50 yard marker for the chicane. ( on the old circuit . in 1980.) excellent video . super breathing mask .and dust extractor on the DA.
I just discovered your videos and after going through a few of them I can see this is the best and most thorough descriptions of glass fibre repairs that is out there 👍. Thanks for putting the work into it 👊. I will read your pdf and probably return with some questions.
So much for a small hole! Thanks, Andy for another very informative video! Love your channel.
Love your videos! Very informative! My father worked in a fiberglass shop for years. I’m tackling some minor repairs on my boat and the info you provide is great! Thanks for the great content!
just discovered and subscribed to your channel. i want to say, some people are great teachers, and are able to explain their craft clearly and concisely, you are excellent at this. thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. this topic has always been a point of curiosity for me, and you've satisficed my curiosity. thanks!
I've been looking for someone to explain this, and this is the best I've found in a long time. I built a fiberglass lamborghini and couldn't figure out how to fill in low spots but the idea with plywood and handles is great advice I dident even think of that! Thank you!
This is exactly the video I needed!! Love your channel, keep up the great work!!
Another great video, thanks for keeping the content coming. That small puncture hole escalated to what looks to my novice eyes, a major project. You made it look like a routine patch 👍
it was....lol
I use small drill holes and hook a backer of disposable cutting board plastic. This prevents the sag dimple and allows more working of the patch.
Thank you for this video... the timing could not be more perfect. I’m in the process of peeling back all the stinky layers of an onion (boat) I recently acquired and while prepping for paint I revealed some hairline cracks that were later found to be weeping moisture from the backside. Further inspection revealed a previous repair that utilized some less than desirable materials. The cracks were the result of poor adhesion and what appeared to be bondo body filler layered in between.
After cutting away all the bad parts I’m faced with exactly this repair.
I now feel somewhat vindicated in that I’ve learned enough from your other videos to feel confident that the repair work I’m doing is adequate and not necessarily cutting corners.
I’ve always felt like there is no right way to do a wrong thing. Thank you for making me realize I’m not doing a “wrong” thing.
Just watching you work for some tips as I have to do my boat hatch as the previous owner made a hash of it with laminated wood looks terrible so in removing the wood to fill with glass then paint over with pre coat then toplack paint your blog has helped heaps many thanks 😊 and regards from the Uk 👍🏻😁🇬🇧
Very bloody helpful, have to do a one sided repair of a fiberglass top on a campertrailer. It was bodged by the previous owner, was unsure how to do it, but thanks to this vid and your expertise I now know how to repair it and do a great job, Thanks mate.
This wee dinghy series is ace! Thought I would miss the Moppie but this is really great.
Great vid 55 years at this stuff .and shoulders are slowing me down now .
So many great tips in this video, applicable to big and small fiberglass jobs. Thank you!
Well, you've picked just the right time to do it! I've just picked up a project boat that has a pinhole(pencil sized) hole in the hull that I can't get to the other side without ripping the floor up.
How’s the boat coming? Did the video help?
Rip that floor up!🤟
Thank you so much for taking your time for your video mister professor! 👍🏼
Hi, Andy.
I am motivated to post by the difficulty you have had on a few occasions explaining fairing.
My creds: Sailor for 60 years. Emerald shellback. Circumnavigator x2 (first to do so using satellite data). Retired USN MCPO.
I love your channel and am inspired by much of your content. I only wish to offer the following content.
1. Fair is the shape of a waterborne object to offer the least resistance to flow. Water should flow over a surface with no abrupt flow vectors (the water flows in straight lines as nearly as possible.)
2. Visually, fair is the flow of one line into another without large angles. It should be pleasing to the eye but has no real performance penalty. Above the water, if your surface moves gently in a single curve, it is fair.
3. A waterborne object needs to be fair in all dimensions. Above the water line the penalty is not performance related.
4. Your fairing tool looks to be fantastic; I would like to try it sometime. Maybe i will.
Again, point of the post is to define "fair".
This was a great video! Thank you for showing your boat and the different projects as well. VERY interesting!
I am creating a new wing for my project car out of two oem wings and this was the video I needed to know how to deal with the gaps. I knew boat repair videos would help!😄
Please keep the super informative videos coming.
Love the information and love your presentation thanks for all you do !
First 🙋♂️
Thanks for everything you shared for many years.
Everything i have done to my small boat , what is lot, i learned from you and your channel.
Many thanks from The Netherlands 👍
These videos make a huge difference to sailors and boat-owners. It is very difficult to find reliable videos on this subject.
Thanks Andy. That was a great repair video - exactly the job I am contemplating. Thank you 🙏
First time watching...what a great and informative job...so much prep and work...many thanks for this.
This was the perfect video for me. I’ve been researching fiberglass repair for hobie cat 16 and this answered all my questions!!!!
Same! Yeah, I wish he would pick up an old crusty Hobie and show everyone how he would do all the "regular" Hobie issues. It would be awesome!
Great vid. As usual Andy. You're the man.
I’m doing a similar repair to my Vanguard 15.5 sailboat.......thanks so much for great direction in detail
I already subscribed. Surprising your impeccable way of explaining and sharing your secrets to carry out a job of such high quality !! Thank you, the video is super nice (including the soft music) in all aspects !! Greetings from Buenos Aires !!👋👋👋
This was GREAT! It's been some time since I've commented and this one is AT THE TOP! Mainly because, well I'm getting ready to put my boat back on the hard after only a year of the last time for a couple of different reasons. Major is I have a small leak and I'm pretty sure where it is and NEEDED THIS REFRESHER COURSE, for one of the jobs. (I LOVE YOUR TEACHING LIKE THIS, VIDEOS) Not screaming just wanted you to know how much I appreciate this and what you do! THANK YOU SO MUCH. I SAVED THIS ONE. LOL. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOURS and Stay Safe.🙏🏻❤🇺🇲⛵⚓
Very nice looking work. Thank you for teaching how to do this kind of repair.
Good day form the north end of the lake. Great video Andy. Although I’ve been doing amateur fiberglass repairs for decades, I always pick up useful tips from your videos. the biggest one so far is the use of 1708 as a primary cloth for structural stuff. It has changed the game for me.
Thanks much.
Love that flexi trowel! Super cool!
Great video. Thanks for taking your time and explaining every step.
The little one at the end saying "This has been..." is priceless! Great instructional!
Great demo and explanation. Looking to learn more about strengthening fiberglass fatigue on a 30’ sailboat.
Wow, thanks for the info! Your video helped me to make a one side repair on my little skiff. Thanks bud!!
Great video, and just what I needed, to do a small area of damage! Thank you!
Ive only been subbed 2 days and I've watched a dozen of your videos this is amazing
Very satisfying to watch, I learned a lot.
Great video, I'm repairing a Kayak and your advices are more than precious. THANKS A LOT 😄👍👍👏👏
Beeing a fiberglass boat repair man for many years. Smart thing to do is gluing some stiff carboard on the inside of the hull using melt glue. Then it will be real easy to place the wet fiberglass on the outside. Always remember using a steel roller to get all the air trapped in the wet fiberglass out. Rolling the wet laminate until you get a dry not splashy sound is wery inportant. Think of it more like vibrating wet cement. The job of grinding a damaged surface until clean and dry surface is a must.
Dude you didn’t read the title? One sided limited access repair . That’s what he demonstrated
No access...
@@MrAjotsohey when there's a hole you put glue around the inside edges then the cardboard bends u stick it through the hole then unbend it and put a screw through the cardboard so u can pull it to stick to the inside edges... Take screw out. Now u have a back wall to be able to put the fiberglass and resin on the whole area. So it has fiberglass just isn't finished but will be strong
Knut I hot glue a thin soft plastic that softens with heat gun. Form it while hot so it has backing and I can roll out my layup. I also worked in a glass shop and his method is a lil diff.
We could layup roll out and shape that repair in one shot, boss yelled alot if you took too long. Helps to learn from pros.
Yeah I second. Using a backing plate (you don’t need access to the other side) would make that way easier when laying up the new layers of fibre.
Great video straight to the good stuff and well explained looking forward to learning more much to do on my first project boat.
I have been kicking around buying a salvage boat with a hole .. your video helped me make my Decision
Before carrying out this repair (which is excellent)...make an oversized plate of grp to place through the hole being repaired and glue into place using epoxy from the inside.
I put a couple of large screws in the plate to pull it against the inside of the hole then repair it as shown in this video. I only use the epoxy to glue into place and leave the plate free ready for the polyester repair.
Amazing advice! You make me a pro with your instruction!
I recently had some wind damage to my right main wheel fairing on my airplane. You've given me some great ideas how to repair the damage. Strangely, you cannot access the interior of the rear section of the fairing, so the structural resin and faring compound look like they might do the trick. The strength issue probably isn't a factor. And, I'd much rather do it myself than pay some aircraft mechanic $200/hour, and have them take a week to do it. Thank you!
You make the best videos and clear instructions!
Thanks Andy, great advise. Keep up the good work!
Hi Andy thanks for great videos! On this project I have a question : if you're using laminating resin does the inside ever cure properly seeing as there is no wax additive material on the inside?
Nice job and I learned some things that I didn't know 🙂 I appreciate you and taking your time to demonstrate the work thank you 😊
"One Sided Repair" where every repair goes your way every time
I love you Andy , mate you
Have hepled me out so much .ive rebuild a 6 meter cabin cruiser using nothing but coosa board from basicly the gelcoat up . Got about another year befor i finish. Thanks andy .from yoir mate in western Australia, Graeme.
Youre really good at containing the mess.
A true Master of your trade, thanks for sharing.
Good job explaining the repair,thanks.😊
You are teaching me so much thank you for myself and my little sunfish
Thanks for the video man! Should prove handy when I fix up my dad's old boat. I plan on turning that thing into a duck hunting boat come spring.
Very informative video again, as usual. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, sir :)
Great information Andy
great project -- thank you. Now to memorize and find equivalents of the chemicals you used overseas.
Aqui em
Awesome video. Very informative. Will be using your knowledge on my Hardtop Blazer
excellent information and demonstration as always!!
Nice job,T.Y., learned a lot.Hope you enjoy your boat ride.
I see ya with the Jay's stickers on the bandsaw! Great video, thanks for sharing the knowledge 👍
Andy, great explanation on how to do this type of repair.
I have a can of the TB fairing filler and it says that it is for use above the waterline. Is it okay to use it in this application (below the waterline) as well?
Very enjoyable personality. Great work. Thanks
As always great video. For a good tip. Hot glue popcicle sticks on inside of hull will keep glass repair from sagging I’ve had great success with this technique
Peel ply works as well. Or in a pinch, cardboard and duct tape. Accessibility is key though.
I'm thinking heavy wire would be better.
More strength to weightl, span longer distances and conform to curves.
I have a long wheelbase dune buggy body I am restoring. This video was perfect in content and information.
Thanks Andy from Australia for your great light hearted and easy to understand tutorial. 😀I have an old fibreglass sand buggy and your information has given me the confidence to tackle it myself. Keep up the great work.👍
Nice video Andy - you’re truly a master craftsman - have learned so much from watching you work over the past couple years.
Most excellent as usual. Thanks
Hi Andy. Another great video. Will you be demonstrating how to do a waterline on this? Cant wait for the next video. You did well with the bertram transom (nightmare). Bless you skipper.
Thank you ! That exactly what I need to fix my canoe bow.
Hi Andy. What a great job you do. Thanks for the knowledge. I’m going to be doing some fiberglass work on the deck of my boat where an old repair has broken free. I was wondering what kind of fiberglass you ended up using on the bottom of that hull and which one would be appropriate for my job. Thanks again. Mac
Good Job, Thanx for direction of repair fiber glass in detail .
Great video a lot of good information I have that problem on my boat now I know how to address it thank you
Hi Andy, very informative videos thanks so much. My dad and I are trying to fix a Hurricane Dorian damaged vessel and will be using your videos for reference. Theres a lot of big cracked off pieces, would you recommend cutting back to have a clean surface or just lay fiberglass over the torn edges?
Great video,thanks again, Elliott.