When repairing aluminum boats, it is IMPERATIVE that you make every effort to get the cuts and cracks pushed out by lightly hammering from the inside of the boat, and a wood or metal block on the outside (bottom) to help form the area back to its near flat shape. But most importantly, the preparation is key for a good job. All contaminants should be removed, and followed up with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner. You can follow up with JB weld Marine, and smooth sand it for a more uniform look. Good luck, and stay safe on the water.
I brazed at a heating and cooling factory on coils and evaps aluminum is much harder to braze than copper.Its burns away very easy and doesnt change colors.You made it look easy!!!!!!!!
Careful! I did this and ended up melting a much bigger hole than what I intended to mend. I fixed it, but my heart dropped out when the beautiful shiny pool of perfectly flowing aluminum that was making everything in the universe right again melted right through my hull and down like the trapdoor to the Rancor. WTF! Positioning a solid hunk of brass on the other side of the "weld" to help absorb the heat worked to repair my initial repair. Once done, though, solid AF.
I just did this to my boat... It was a hot day in the shade and it still took forever to get things going. I'm not sure if the rods bonded well with the material or not. I figure it's a good plug at least. Thanks for the video. I'm going to work on my boat some more but I'm going to add a laser thermometer and a good heat gun to help with the heating issues. If I had a welder or could afford one I would, you know. Have a great day!
I know this is an older video but if no one has mentioned it already stop-drilling a crack prior to repairing it is a great way to prevent it from continuing to spread down the road.
Thanks for the video. Boat I'm working on, the transom is about like that. Looks like a shotgun with #7 shot paid it a visit. Seeing this gets me on the right track to get it fixed.
Why would anyone talk about the previous owner about being stupid And a jack leg sitting leaning or kneeling on a already damaged boat Unnecessary. That’s a aluminum boat with rivets wow man and your giving advice.
How is it holding to date? Thank you so much for all the information I have gotten from you. It has helped me alot to fix my boats and for ideas to upgrade/modify them.
Thank you very informative I love the way you went through all the aspects of welding because I have to do mine here this summer so thanks again and I’ll catch you down the trail
Hey Mike, thanks for this video! I have never braised before and know that I will have to do the same thing to my project V HULL as well. I'll try to take video of the process. Again, Thank you!
Aluminum roof patch, comes in a big bucket from Lowes. The stuff used for house trailers. It needs to be mixed with a drill attachment, then brush it on and work it into the holes. Do it out in the sun for best results. After it sets up a few days, go over the outside and inside with that truck bed liner spray.
I used Map Gas with the AL brazing rods on the two cracked ribs and completely screwed the metal up by melting it! Now I have to get it professional welder to fix all the holes and cracks.
nice job buddy. only thing i can see wrong is no crack prep to prevent it from spreading. i do alot of metal work. if you have a crack and weld over it will still spread over time. it is best to drill a hole on the end of the crack prior to filling it.
So I'm about to attempt this also and I have a couple questions. How important is it to drill the hole at the end of the crack? How big of a hole? And also I'd Flux not needed at all for the brazing?
Thank you for great video. One think I would mention. You are lucky. I did it yesterday with Hubbart rods. One made successfully after hammering and 5-7 attempts. Another one did not. Why? - After perfect looked brazing when hot, crack in brazing appear when soldering. It's never been before with free play parts. But on a bot I got this huge problem.
TIG actually welds the rod and material at the same temperature aprox 1200 degrees F° and it's permanent . When I braze aluminum it only hits approximately 750° it seems to stick quite well though. Epoxy resin is another alternative but, the braze is a more strong semi permanent solution.
I use Splash Zone. I saw them use it on Deadliest Catch. I have used this on my aluminum boat. Great. Lasts forever. No heat needed. 2 part epoxy. Can even use underwater.
Put your boat on 2 heavy duty sawhorses, fill with 4 inches of water. Watch for leaks, get a helper. Get a block of steel (at least 3/4" thick) or an auto body "heel dolly" flat on one side. Have helper hold block of steel on whichever side is easier for them, and take a steel rod, at least 3/8 inch diameter, place on rivet and hammer it till the leak stops. Make sure other person keeps the block up against the rivet tightly, or you'll have a bigger leak than you started with. I bought a 10 ft. jon boat that was bondoed on every rivet on the bottom and the square front. I sanded off all the bondo, put on sawhorses, put 4 inches of water in it, and now I have a leak free boat. Found out the person who previously owned it had a 15 horse motor on it and all he ever used it for was "hot dogging" with it. Made all the rivets loose.
This is great teaching the brazing. It reminds me about the old days using lead on auto body. So if there is a crack that traveled you don't need to drill the ends so it doesn't travel under the brazing? thank you!
You did good, look into some automotive Surebond Gray Metal Bond Sealant for your next project. This is the stuff body shops use to bond unibodies together with when repairing whole clips of cars and bonds great.
I enjoy your videos but, seriously I have to correct you being a certified welder. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! Don't wear rubber gloves, or any cloth type that will melt vs burn. It is better wearing nothing then those. If you happened to burn that glove, that melted rubber would damage you way more than just being burned normally. GJ on the patch btw.
Just get a pair of soft garden leather gloves for low heat delicate stuff. Any polyester will melt like plastic to your skin. I've been burned more times then I can count, leather is worth its weight in gold.
Rob I choose therefore I am responsible, Let folks deal with their daily decisions I do makes it easier for me and I do not worry. He stated he should wear welding gloves but chooses not to makes it a point to tell others do not do as I do. And explains why What has happened to his/her choice his/her responsibility.
Rob RTM PC Repair you mention being a certified welder like that means something. How about a person with common sense would realize you shouldn't use rubber gloves..you probably time your firewatch after welding lmao
Great work I grabbed aluminum brazing rods at 2 sources Tractor supply and a Wal-Mart order on line. On line was cheaper not as thick as the .08 TSC.. Mail order was probably .04ish and only 12 inches in length , The hobarts tsc was closer to 20. Both work and provide same coverage. Now where we differed was gas system I used the map also but with o2. Mine just heated a little quicker. I can not thank guys with these how to`s enough. Kids & I might actually enjoy bot this memorial day. 2018
Hey man just started watching your videos, love them. Ive learned so much in a short time. I've got a 14ft mod V Jon boat I restored and did a lot of fabrication as well. Turned it into a bass style boat. Um from Wisconsin so up here we do alot of Musky fishing. I've got so many questions. Lol.. Ill be watching and learning. Thanks for the vids. Id love to be a part of the TBNation. I can post some pics also. I have one request for you tho, it's a game changer every bass boat needs. Let me know if your interested in my idea.
You rock bruddha just moved here to Florida form Hawaii . Had a friend give us a boat for free.. It look like boat you have n video I'll tell you how it came out. If it wasn't for your video I would have never heat Up good enough
grind around rivets, clean with a acetone rag let dry a few, apply jb weld marine the expoy mix let it sit according to directions, flip Boat over do same prep apply flex see (the stuff on tv) I used the jb weld marine putty for my holes and cracks, then finished it off with gluvits expoy, I know it's alot of layers but idc I hit a rock in my johnboat it put a hole in it I took on bunch of water. I'm maken sure I stay dry, so I did all the above the scruff the entire boat, acetone wash, primed , painted and build decks,
Not pretty but kudos for keeping the boat out of the landfill. Just got my first Jon boat and its nice to know about the aluminum brazing rod if I ever need it.
Have you tried G Flex as an epoxy sealant for rivets and seams? If I don't know how to braise, how should I repair a two inch long rock tear in my Jon boat?
JB Water Weld all rivets and small leaks/holes on hull. Coat bottom with Flex Seal. Go fishing! I did this to a 60's era Sears Game Fisher 10' Jon Boat I got on CL for $100. Has not leaked since. Cheap, solid repair. Put a camo paint job on her too. Pride of the ponds now! Fish On!
Great video Thx! Question: can a 1" hole be braised with rods? I have 3 holes from previous live well plumbing that I need to patch. Not sure how to approach the project short of finding a welder...$$$ Thx
100% silicone does a good job at sticking to bare aluminum. I 've fixed Jon boat cracks with it, although that aluminum brazing rod seems like a better idea.
Hey man can I ask one question do you think I can do that if my boat was on the trailer but not upside down cuz I found the two little holes do you think if I heat it up and touch it with the rod it's going to trip off to the ground what do you think about absolutely has to be upside down
you don't need an air hammer to tighten loose rivets,if you can reach both sides just use a ball pein hammer and a bucking tool if you can't reach both sides still use the same tools just get a buddy to hold the bucking tool, you cam even use a hammer as the bucking tool but it will slightly flatten the heads
if you want to remove corrosion from aluminum.. what you use is dilute phosphoric acid. Home depot sells it as Metal Etch and Prep. After you use it.. neutralize with baking soda and water ( arm and hammer soda).. then rise with plain water.
I just got a brand new map gas canister and 6 minutes into heating it still wouldn't even start to melt think it's my nozzle? I'm probly just going to take it to a friend's house with an oxi acetaline torch just enough to heat it up and not cut it but I don't want to do that if I don't have to
@@TinyBoatNation well tommorow I'm gonna take her in the sun and use the whole can if I have to it's just one crack similar in water intake to your main one in the video just wish they had one that melted at like 500...
What's your opinion on using jb weld on small pits on the inside of the hull from foam? I'm trying to figure out which is best to stop the corrosion from going all the way through. Or do you think the brazing would be better?
Should definitely have pounded that crack flat and drill stopped those cracks. Thats the best way to keep it from cracking again in the future. If you don't drill your cracks they will just continue to grow over time no matter what you do to them.
I would have made a bono mold over a section of a good keel/chine, then used bondoglass in that mold placed where you cobbled up the pop rivet aluminum strip job. You can still do this.
I'd get a second or even 3rd torch on that work if you can't heat it enough to get the brazing rod to flow. I'd also hammer out the torn area and clean it up a LOT better.
Easy to melt holes in aluminum something that will work cost little money But at partsplus or a body shop supplier get 3m 08115 panel bonding adhesive takes 24 hours to fully dry but when it does it's like glass hard as a rock boat will not leak
richard cranium works great! when acetylene is mixed with oxygen it's very clean..heats the metal up quick..and back in the day that's all they used to weld airplanes with. it was one of the first forms of welding.
those rods are 93% zinc, 4% aluminum and 3% copper. zinc has a very low melting point (787.2°f) that why you are able to melt it with that torch also zinc corrodes super fast and easy that's why blocks of zinc are mounted to on outboard motors and steel ships to help prevent corrosion of the steel boat and steel parts on an outboard. Not trying to be mean or anything but probably not the best option for boat repairs
Michael Lopez they do use zinc to galvanised screws but it not to prevent galvanic corrosion is to cause galvanic corrosion which is when one metal corroded preferentially to another when both metals are in electrical contact, in the presence of an electrolyte. electrolyte's are present in saltwater and some freshwater. the copper wont cause damage to aluminum until electrolysis begins which is also caused by electrolyte's. I also contacted Hobart and the said that their aluminum low temp brazing rods are 81% zinc, 9% copper and 10% aluminum.
over 40 years ago my dad showed me to use gel coat on any of our little John boats and our little Montgomery Wards sea Kings and things like that rivets beate blow gelcoat back then was cheap just let it dry then run the boat then once it starts leaking it was a cheap fix
Try CaswelD PM It melts at 350f so will be much easier to handle. I would have put a block wood soaked in water behind the repair to make it easier. www.caswellplating.com/casweldtm-soldering-rods/casweldtm-pm-soldering-rod-kit.html Their QuikAluminum epoxy stick will also help some of these repairs. www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-repair-materials/quikaluminumr-epoxy-4-cu-in.html
I'm interest on purchasing my first boat and my Buddy's willing to sell me his 12 foot Jon boat wit hthe trailer for $200 but it doesn't come with the title, is it worth purchasing still? and I would like to add a couple compartments to it and make a little poor man's bass boat out of it. I'm only 18 and fish usually with 3 of my Buddy's including myself. will it work out? and what's the price to do so?
Hard to tell, but it didn't appear the brazing material ever wetted. Looked cold to me. It's my experience that a clean stainless steel handbrush must be used in melted material to bust off oxidation and allow the melted material to wet. Aluminum oxidizes instantaneously, or at least faster than you can brush, then heat, them melt material. Try getting a puddle of melted material, run a SS brush through the puddle brushing the base metal. You'll know instantly that you've broken the oxide layer because the melted material will wet.
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When repairing aluminum boats, it is IMPERATIVE that you make every effort to get the cuts and cracks pushed out by lightly hammering from the inside of the boat, and a wood or metal block on the outside (bottom) to help form the area back to its near flat shape. But most importantly, the preparation is key for a good job. All contaminants should be removed, and followed up with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner. You can follow up with JB weld Marine, and smooth sand it for a more uniform look. Good luck, and stay safe on the water.
What if it's on a older boats keel? Picked up a old 12ft boat and noticed it has a crack on the keel.
A great video... Because of all the helpful comments. I would scrap that boat after this educational video was finished.
I brazed at a heating and cooling factory on coils and evaps aluminum is much harder to braze than copper.Its burns away very easy and doesnt change colors.You made it look easy!!!!!!!!
HTS2000 works pretty good but Tig is the way to go. Good videos keep em going.
You saved that boat. In my books, one like that is scrap metal. Kudos.
Dude, that is seriously a lot of work on a destroyed boat. But I admire your tenacity.
Michael Lopez I will!!
Careful! I did this and ended up melting a much bigger hole than what I intended to mend. I fixed it, but my heart dropped out when the beautiful shiny pool of perfectly flowing aluminum that was making everything in the universe right again melted right through my hull and down like the trapdoor to the Rancor. WTF! Positioning a solid hunk of brass on the other side of the "weld" to help absorb the heat worked to repair my initial repair. Once done, though, solid AF.
I just did this to my boat... It was a hot day in the shade and it still took forever to get things going. I'm not sure if the rods bonded well with the material or not. I figure it's a good plug at least. Thanks for the video. I'm going to work on my boat some more but I'm going to add a laser thermometer and a good heat gun to help with the heating issues. If I had a welder or could afford one I would, you know. Have a great day!
I have patched a hole the size of a baseball in the nose of an old flat bottom using jb weld. It's still holding and the repair was nine years ago.
Mr.Cornfed's Bushcraft & Outdoors dude JB weld is used to repair huge engine blocks... been done for 30 plus years.
My buddy and I did the same in bayou Meto Arkansas! Fuggin log fugged us up. Job weld to the rescue, finished the hunt as normal
I know this is an older video but if no one has mentioned it already stop-drilling a crack prior to repairing it is a great way to prevent it from continuing to spread down the road.
Thanks for the video. Boat I'm working on, the transom is about like that. Looks like a shotgun with #7 shot paid it a visit. Seeing this gets me on the right track to get it fixed.
Why would anyone talk about the previous owner about being stupid And a jack leg sitting leaning or kneeling on a already damaged boat Unnecessary. That’s a aluminum boat with rivets wow man and your giving advice.
Friend of yours?
How is it holding to date? Thank you so much for all the information I have gotten from you. It has helped me alot to fix my boats and for ideas to upgrade/modify them.
Thank you very informative I love the way you went through all the aspects of welding because I have to do mine here this summer so thanks again and I’ll catch you down the trail
Hey Mike, thanks for this video! I have never braised before and know that I will have to do the same thing to my project V HULL as well. I'll try to take video of the process. Again, Thank you!
Aluminum roof patch, comes in a big bucket from Lowes. The stuff used for house trailers. It needs to be mixed with a drill attachment, then brush it on and work it into the holes. Do it out in the sun for best results. After it sets up a few days, go over the outside and inside with that truck bed liner spray.
Thats stuffs pretty neat
All seriousness best RUclips channel ever
I used Map Gas with the AL brazing rods on the two cracked ribs and completely screwed the metal up by melting it!
Now I have to get it professional welder to fix all the holes and cracks.
when cleaning aluminum to weld or braze you should only use a stainless steel wire brush so you have the least contamination in the weld or braze.
Finally! Nobody else said that I've seen
nice job buddy. only thing i can see wrong is no crack prep to prevent it from spreading. i do alot of metal work. if you have a crack and weld over it will still spread over time. it is best to drill a hole on the end of the crack prior to filling it.
just keep an eye on it. if it starts to spread again drill a hole and re braze it. great thing about metal you can always fix it.
So I'm about to attempt this also and I have a couple questions. How important is it to drill the hole at the end of the crack? How big of a hole? And also I'd Flux not needed at all for the brazing?
Thank you for great video.
One think I would mention. You are lucky.
I did it yesterday with Hubbart rods. One made successfully after hammering and 5-7 attempts. Another one did not. Why? - After perfect looked brazing when hot, crack in brazing appear when soldering. It's never been before with free play parts. But on a bot I got this huge problem.
TIG actually welds the rod and material at the same temperature aprox 1200 degrees F° and it's permanent . When I braze aluminum it only hits approximately 750° it seems to stick quite well though. Epoxy resin is another alternative but, the braze is a more strong semi permanent solution.
I use Splash Zone. I saw them use it on Deadliest Catch. I have used this on my aluminum boat. Great. Lasts forever. No heat needed. 2 part epoxy. Can even use underwater.
You should put together a whole aluminum boat from a precut aluminum boat kit. That would be awesome
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Put your boat on 2 heavy duty sawhorses, fill with 4 inches of water. Watch for leaks, get a helper. Get a block of steel (at least 3/4" thick) or an auto body "heel dolly" flat on one side. Have helper hold block of steel on whichever side is easier for them, and take a steel rod, at least 3/8 inch diameter, place on rivet and hammer it till the leak stops. Make sure other person keeps the block up against the rivet tightly, or you'll have a bigger leak than you started with. I bought a 10 ft. jon boat that was bondoed on every rivet on the bottom and the square front. I sanded off all the bondo, put on sawhorses, put 4 inches of water in it, and now I have a leak free boat. Found out the person who previously owned it had a 15 horse motor on it and all he ever used it for was "hot dogging" with it. Made all the rivets loose.
it was rated at only 10hp.
Do you know where to find those heavy duty saw horses
This is great teaching the brazing. It reminds me about the old days using lead on auto body. So if there is a crack that traveled you don't need to drill the ends so it doesn't travel under the brazing? thank you!
You did good, look into some automotive Surebond Gray Metal Bond Sealant for your next project. This is the stuff body shops use to bond unibodies together with when repairing whole clips of cars and bonds great.
I enjoy your videos but, seriously I have to correct you being a certified welder. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! Don't wear rubber gloves, or any cloth type that will melt vs burn. It is better wearing nothing then those. If you happened to burn that glove, that melted rubber would damage you way more than just being burned normally. GJ on the patch btw.
Just get a pair of soft garden leather gloves for low heat delicate stuff. Any polyester will melt like plastic to your skin. I've been burned more times then I can count, leather is worth its weight in gold.
Michael Lopez I've seen people use needle nose visegrip pliers to hold the rod and draw like you said.
Rob RTM PC Repair
Rob I choose therefore I am responsible, Let folks deal with their daily decisions I do makes it easier for me and I do not worry. He stated he should wear welding gloves but chooses not to makes it a point to tell others do not do as I do. And explains why What has happened to his/her choice his/her responsibility.
Rob RTM PC Repair you mention being a certified welder like that means something. How about a person with common sense would realize you shouldn't use rubber gloves..you probably time your firewatch after welding lmao
Great work I grabbed aluminum brazing rods at 2 sources Tractor supply and a Wal-Mart order on line. On line was cheaper not as thick as the .08 TSC.. Mail order was probably .04ish and only 12 inches in length , The hobarts tsc was closer to 20. Both work and provide same coverage. Now where we differed was gas system I used the map also but with o2. Mine just heated a little quicker. I can not thank guys with these how to`s enough. Kids & I might actually enjoy bot this memorial day. 2018
Hey man just started watching your videos, love them. Ive learned so much in a short time. I've got a 14ft mod V Jon boat I restored and did a lot of fabrication as well. Turned it into a bass style boat. Um from Wisconsin so up here we do alot of Musky fishing. I've got so many questions. Lol.. Ill be watching and learning. Thanks for the vids. Id love to be a part of the TBNation. I can post some pics also. I have one request for you tho, it's a game changer every bass boat needs. Let me know if your interested in my idea.
You should have drilled holes at the end of the cracks
That too will put a "Dead End" in the crack, and keep it from spreading further. Good call..!
It would have been a good added measure. But i believe the braze is more then sufficient.
*Why, he'd have nothing left if he drilled both ends. That little boat hit the jackpot for an owner as this young man has a lot of gumption.*
Perfect! I love the step by step. You should do a step by step boat mod.
You rock bruddha just moved here to Florida form Hawaii . Had a friend give us a boat for free.. It look like boat you have n video I'll tell you how it came out. If it wasn't for your video I would have never heat
Up good enough
grind around rivets, clean with a acetone rag let dry a few, apply jb weld marine the expoy mix let it sit according to directions, flip Boat over do same prep apply flex see (the stuff on tv) I used the jb weld marine putty for my holes and cracks, then finished it off with gluvits expoy, I know it's alot of layers but idc I hit a rock in my johnboat it put a hole in it I took on bunch of water. I'm maken sure I stay dry, so I did all the above the scruff the entire boat, acetone wash, primed , painted and build decks,
Not pretty but kudos for keeping the boat out of the landfill. Just got my first Jon boat and its nice to know about the aluminum brazing rod if I ever need it.
Could it have been an advantage if the two side of the gap were hammered closer to the original shape to reduce the gap?
Hi Michael, I followed your videos and made a repair to my boat... I was curious though, how well is that boat holding up with the aluminum brazing?
sweet lord, I thought my boat was in bad shape hahaha
Any videos on repair to plastic bottom boats? I have a flat bottom from Sears with a crack.
You should just be able to solder it back together and plastic weld it
Have you tried preheating the hull on a bigger area with a weed burner first?
No, I have not had this boat for a while
Have you tried G Flex as an epoxy sealant for rivets and seams? If I don't know how to braise, how should I repair a two inch long rock tear in my Jon boat?
JB Water Weld all rivets and small leaks/holes on hull. Coat bottom with Flex Seal. Go fishing! I did this to a 60's era Sears Game Fisher 10' Jon Boat I got on CL for $100. Has not leaked since. Cheap, solid repair. Put a camo paint job on her too. Pride of the ponds now! Fish On!
Great googly moogly, did they tow it along a gravel road off the trailer? Good job fixing someone else's ignorance.
Great video
Thx!
Question: can a 1" hole be braised with rods? I have 3 holes from previous live well plumbing that I need to patch. Not sure how to approach the project short of finding a welder...$$$
Thx
I think it's separating more because you're on top of the boat not necessarily from the Heat and expansion of the metal
You are correct 🎉
I'm gunna fix up an old hull to use as a catamaran hull and this will help with all the dings and dents it has.
100% silicone does a good job at sticking to bare aluminum. I 've fixed Jon boat cracks with it, although that aluminum brazing rod seems like a better idea.
so how do you do the final leak check? you flip the boat over on saw horses and slowly fill it with water?
I’m looking into brazing a leaking keel on my Lowe deckboat. How has this held up since you did it?
Nice im going to try repairing. My boat i have leaking rivits and felx seal dident help
Repairs can get you extend the life of an old aluminium boat. However if boat is that bad, it is time to get another boat :)
Can you use steel wire brushes to clean off the paint on the bottom of the boat???
Why don't you buy the spreader head for your torch? It heats a little wider area?
Thanks,I have a similar situation, 12x30 pin holes in the bottom, and beat to hell, testing the brazing rods now
Try closed ended pop rivets 1st.
@@TinyBoatNation yep I need to order some, for below the water line,
Beautiful work bro.
How did the spot hold up over time ?did the braze job stay?
man you weren't kidding about how messed up it is...should be a great project though!
Also, you can use a regular hammer instead of the air hammer, just a little more work
What brazing rods did you use. There are a bunch out there. Some cheap some expensive
How did it hold up? Did the boat float ok?
@@TinyBoatNation Thank you for responding. Maybe it's time for a new boat.
is brazing strong enough to put aluminum supports inside the boat to support decking instead of using rivets?
Daniel hardin No. Go hire somebody that can weld or use rivets.
Use those welding torch they hav a mini set for jobs like this n for less gas use on propane torch
Hey man can I ask one question do you think I can do that if my boat was on the trailer but not upside down cuz I found the two little holes do you think if I heat it up and touch it with the rod it's going to trip off to the ground what do you think about absolutely has to be upside down
Have you ever replaced the inside ribs that's riveted to a jon boat I have 3 in mine that are bad someone hacked up
probly not the best idea to stand on the lite aluminum boat with a tun of holes lol
ha
you don't need an air hammer to tighten loose rivets,if you can reach both sides just use a ball pein hammer and a bucking tool if you can't reach both sides still use the same tools just get a buddy to hold the bucking tool, you cam even use a hammer as the bucking tool but it will slightly flatten the heads
Would having a heat gun blowing on the other side help any ?
if you want to remove corrosion from aluminum.. what you use is dilute phosphoric acid. Home depot sells it as Metal Etch and Prep. After you use it.. neutralize with baking soda and water ( arm and hammer soda).. then rise with plain water.
Capt Larry - you want to use non etching FYI
I just got a brand new map gas canister and 6 minutes into heating it still wouldn't even start to melt think it's my nozzle? I'm probly just going to take it to a friend's house with an oxi acetaline torch just enough to heat it up and not cut it but I don't want to do that if I don't have to
@@TinyBoatNation well tommorow I'm gonna take her in the sun and use the whole can if I have to it's just one crack similar in water intake to your main one in the video just wish they had one that melted at like 500...
Should.you do.both sides or just from one side
I keep the heat on it and flow it right in. I don't take flame away and I go back and forth.
How log your repairs last?
What's your opinion on using jb weld on small pits on the inside of the hull from foam? I'm trying to figure out which is best to stop the corrosion from going all the way through. Or do you think the brazing would be better?
Man lots of work
Should definitely have pounded that crack flat and drill stopped those cracks. Thats the best way to keep it from cracking again in the future. If you don't drill your cracks they will just continue to grow over time no matter what you do to them.
Hey TBNation, I'm looking for help to rebuild my Bass Tracker Pro 16 1987.
The floor has completely crushed and most of the wood decking is rotten.
@@TinyBoatNation That is awesome, is it possible to get the link.
I would have made a bono mold over a section of a good keel/chine, then used bondoglass in that mold placed where you cobbled up the pop rivet aluminum strip job. You can still do this.
Yeah, but yeah but you are an idiot !
I'd get a second or even 3rd torch on that work if you can't heat it enough to get the brazing rod to flow. I'd also hammer out the torn area and clean it up a LOT better.
Easy to melt holes in aluminum something that will work cost little money But at partsplus or a body shop supplier get 3m 08115 panel bonding adhesive takes 24 hours to fully dry but when it does it's like glass hard as a rock boat will not leak
Thank you!
how do you build the structural supportsystem for a wppden deck?
Lucky for me I have oxy/act Torch set up ready to go
good luck with that. acetaline is too dirty of a gas to use on aluminum. i tried no luck.
richard cranium works great! when acetylene is mixed with oxygen it's very clean..heats the metal up quick..and back in the day that's all they used to weld airplanes with. it was one of the first forms of welding.
those rods are 93% zinc, 4% aluminum and 3% copper. zinc has a very low melting point (787.2°f) that why you are able to melt it with that torch also zinc corrodes super fast and easy that's why blocks of zinc are mounted to on outboard motors and steel ships to help prevent corrosion of the steel boat and steel parts on an outboard. Not trying to be mean or anything but probably not the best option for boat repairs
Michael Lopez they do use zinc to galvanised screws but it not to prevent galvanic corrosion is to cause galvanic corrosion which is when one metal corroded preferentially to another when both metals are in electrical contact, in the presence of an electrolyte. electrolyte's are present in saltwater and some freshwater. the copper wont cause damage to aluminum until electrolysis begins which is also caused by electrolyte's. I also contacted Hobart and the said that their aluminum low temp brazing rods are 81% zinc, 9% copper and 10% aluminum.
Damn! that boat looks a shotgun riddled stop sign, a damn sink hole.
Good luck bud
Where can I find the aluminum rods?
he said harbor freight dude, pay attention
That isn't bad damage, you should see my boat. we run jet pump outboards in super skinny water, as low as 4" deep. I find a lot of rocks.
Same here, that's why I'm watching this video.
You should have used flux. It will take care of impurities and make a better bond and oxy acetylene will heat up faster.
I should have tigged it.
What kind of flux? I called all over no one knew. Can u tell me what kind and can I find at home Depot or Lowe's thanks
over 40 years ago my dad showed me to use gel coat on any of our little John boats and our little Montgomery Wards sea Kings and things like that rivets beate blow gelcoat back then was cheap just let it dry then run the boat then once it starts leaking it was a cheap fix
Drilling a hole at both ends of the crack will stop it from spreading, then fill the holes and crack
I really need that stuff I have 3 cracks in my boat but I love ur videos nd I got the first real comment
Thanks
Try CaswelD PM It melts at 350f so will be much easier to handle. I would have put a block wood soaked in water behind the repair to make it easier.
www.caswellplating.com/casweldtm-soldering-rods/casweldtm-pm-soldering-rod-kit.html
Their QuikAluminum epoxy stick will also help some of these repairs.
www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-repair-materials/quikaluminumr-epoxy-4-cu-in.html
the only thing i question is that the tensile strength is about half as opposed to the 45000lbs...i am curious if the 20000lbs would be enough...
I'm interest on purchasing my first boat and my Buddy's willing to sell me his 12 foot Jon boat wit hthe trailer for $200 but it doesn't come with the title, is it worth purchasing still? and I would like to add a couple compartments to it and make a little poor man's bass boat out of it. I'm only 18 and fish usually with 3 of my Buddy's including myself. will it work out? and what's the price to do so?
The RodFather
U dont buy a boat without a title
period
d g some states don't require titles for the boat. Az only needs a bill of sale to register.
Did the repairs hold up ? Can you give me an update on the status of that boat just got a new project boat myself
how long does it take to heat the aluminum ?
How do I find the forums?
Hard to tell, but it didn't appear the brazing material ever wetted. Looked cold to me. It's my experience that a clean stainless steel handbrush must be used in melted material to bust off oxidation and allow the melted material to wet. Aluminum oxidizes instantaneously, or at least faster than you can brush, then heat, them melt material.
Try getting a puddle of melted material, run a SS brush through the puddle brushing the base metal. You'll know instantly that you've broken the oxide layer because the melted material will wet.
My brother in law told me to use flex seal on my 14’ Jon boat and I said no and used JB. Was he right to say use flex seal
I used flex seal... Didnt work. At all. Never use it.
how long did it take to heat?
Great info thank you
There is a marine JB Weld