DIY Aluminum Brazing holes in canoe / boat with Blue Demon Triple Play / aluminum solder & welding
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- DIY Boat repair: Today we are doing Aluminum welding, aluminum soldering, or more technically aluminum brazing some holes in the bottom of a vintage Grumman canoe. This aluminum boat has been out in the elements for over 50 years and the salty air has done a bit of damage. We need to do a vintage canoe restoration.We will do aluminum welding or aluminum brazing to patch some old leaks. It's aluminum solder in a sense. This repair is better than epoxies like JB weld because it bonds to the metal and doesn't degrade in the sun.
First clean the area of paint, oxidation and other debris with an aggressive stainless steel wire wheel on an angle grinder. We then use Blue Demon BDTP-125-01T Triple Play Low Temp Aluminum-Zinc Brazing Rod 1/8" x 18" and heat it with a Bernzomatic Map gas torch. This rod may be similar to Alumaloy, Super Alloy, or other multi metal rods for aluminum repair. The metal heats up and the rod melts in and flows and pools much like solder.
The repairs can be left alone or ground flush as desired. I will be coating them with aluminum paint to protect and match the rest of the boat.
Buy your supplies from these affiliate links to help support making more videos like this.
the rods: amzn.to/2FubxWl
brazing flux : amzn.to/2EncfS9
torch: amzn.to/2S4hScH
mapp gas: amzn.to/34f1YSa
mapp gas 2-pack: amzn.to/2RFlyV0
twisted cable wire brush - aggressive: amzn.to/2ONu2UU
wire brush - gentle: amzn.to/2VUk90k
grinder: amzn.to/2BdzBIT
aluminum paint: amzn.to/2LW5m0A
For something more interesting, try listening to audio books. I love having a good book read to me while I work or drive. They sure beat top 40 radio these days!! Here's a link to a free month of Audible. Enjoy!!! Prime members get an even better deal! - amzn.to/36mNLFJ
You ever have groceries delivered? Try Amazon Fresh and let the groceries come to you. - amzn.to/3bNfzUI
You make it look like even I could do it. Thanks from Texas!
You can do it!
Excellent job .Bring that old boat back to usable condition for many more years. Ontario Canada.
You remind me of Bob Ross, the way you sound & you stroking your rod, like he did his brush
wow. I love that. I'm super calm too. I'm burning rubber and filling cracks... it's all happy aluminum brazing.... lol
@@robdude1969 omg, lol, after I read my comment I fell out laughing my ass off, wow that definitely was not meant to sound like that, I was just meaning how smooth you were with your ALUMINUM BRAZING ROD, man I had to clean that up , lmmfao😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Sometimes the comments are more entertaining than the Video.
Carl's remark reminded me about this old British video ......
ruclips.net/video/CgbcQIT7BMc/видео.html
Just leaves you both laughing but bewildered at the same time .
Something to be said about proofreading ..... it's just as important everyday.
Ha !
@@carlschmiedeke151 lmfao
@@1silvervespa lol, yeah, I went back , & read my comment, & fell out laughing my ass off, I was like damn that didn't come out sounding like it was meant, lol
Perfect! Turns out my new jon boat was only $50 because it leaks lol. Ill defintely try these out.
The bob Ross of brazing
There are a lot of commenters here who are disturbed about the presence of the rubber under that puddle of filler rod metal. I think that as long as you succeeded, then you know what you're doing and it's just another way of doing things. But to satisfy that contingent, I suppose another way to do it would be to apply a patch that covers the entire area and only braze the edges, so that the heat is away from the rubber.
all true, and I torched a bunch of the flotation inside the bulkhead too... less than excellent situation, but certainly more effective than my past glue jobs.
Nice work!! I just started learning on my canoe and its definitely a skill to be able to do this. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! Good luck on your projects! How did it turn out?
I THINK YOU ID A REAL GOOD JOB EXPLAINING THANK YOU ,
Thanks!
I wonder if the old trick of putting lines of bar soap next to the area being heated would give easier indication of the surface temp .
As used by people bending and shaping aluminum .
Sometimes it's nessasary to heat thin aluminum before bending to prevent it just cracking.
The soap blackens as the aluminum reaches working temp.
Might help with when to bring in the welding rod saving the poking proding method . Just dry bar soap draw a line say half inch from where your going to weld .
Then start heating your repair target area and watching for the soap to go brown . Then see if the aluminum rod melts more readily when touched to the work area.
Could be simple aid to the anticipating surface temp
A real visual indicator of the surface temp. Just regular household bar soap.
1silvervespa that’s a cool tip. I will certainly try it.
At my job I have some different heat marker pencils. If I get any of this I’ll have to try using some of them to measure the heat.
I use two other things to indicate surface temperature: black sharpie and acetylene soot, either of which work perfectly fine. Probably anything that winds up being carbon under the heat of the flame will work just as well, as I suspect the temperature at which it becomes CO2 is similar to the melting point of the brazing rod.
Some friendly advice, cut the aluminum out of the bottom add a screen door and smother it with flex seal. Like new!
Maybe for my next video. I bet it would be a fun project.
Hello fishies
I had just started to watch your video in my caravan I had towed by a lorry to the lake, when a band of local ruffians hoisted the tongue of my trailer and Bob's you're uncle, they wheeled me lodgings right into the sea. I must have floated along for nearly seven minutes watching this video on my iPad before I noticed my caravan was taking on water and I was now around 20 knots off the shore of Liverpool! As I type this comment, I'm typing with one hand and bailing with another. All the while praying to Ganesh that the battery in my laptop will last long enough for me to get these, my last final words out. You see, I cannot swim. It's very likely that as you are reading this, my bloated corpse is sitting on the bottom of the big pond, possible becoming fish food, perhaps even a shark.
Allow me to say, this is the finest video I have ever had the pleasure of viewing and am chuffed like a kipper that I may have made it long enough to let you know.
Good life to all, I may not go down in history, but I will go down with this ship.
Ahoy me mateys! And, Gramma? get your ass into that great big kitchen in the sky, because this lad is coming home to meet his maker and to eat some of your fried chicken!
Did you get the fried chicken or float to shore? I bet if you welded up them seams, the trailer would float on! Thank you for your comment, it will bring me joy in your honor and remembrance.
You have to love a guy that goes down with the ship!
Chicken deep fried in hell.
At about 9:20 I would have tapped the strip down again. Instead of using the rod like filler .
Just leaving room for faster corroding later.
What ever can seep in from the top.....
Nice! Glad to know this as an option
good luck!
This video adds to my list of to-do ideas, thanks.
Good luck! Let us know how it comes out!
If I ever fix up another old boat I'm going to try your way. I've got an old $20 rowboat that I "repaired" about 30 years ago. I used patches bolts and caulk. It still floats okay but doesn't look very professional. I like your way much better, although it's probably more expensive and certainly takes longer.
Thanks for the comment - Good luck on yours, if it works, maybe leave it. I think there is a place for certain repairs... I tried this on a rip and it wasn't the best choice. Check this video too to see how I did on another canoe repair - ruclips.net/video/yd3cBGLt4-Q/видео.html
Had some weird aluminum brazing material in the 1980s . You had to get a puddle formed then scrape the surface under liquid braze with stainless steel. Very hard to use. This stuff is much newer and looks like it works a lot better. I need something to try where I can’t use any electric or even acetylene set up
So interesting! Thanks 😊
My pleasure!
Beauty!
and so satisfying to do. Cheers!
I would think the expansion and contraction of the materials would make the rivets next to your repair begin to leak
do you know what a rivet is?
@@normantaulbee4011 The sound a frog makes.
@@normantaulbee4011 Do you know these rivets have rubber seals in them?
@@Scubastevetampabay California seals?
VERY INFORMATIVE THANKS I ,M GOING TO GIVE IT A SHOT !!
Patrick Peterman tell us how it goes for you!
You're working with a spot in the middle of a heat sink that's about 17 feet long! That's making it a challenge!
yes.
Is that how you frost cakes? Your not coming to my birthday party bro. Lol
You should put together a whole aluminum boat from a precut aluminum boat kit with this. Muggyweld did boat patching too but no one ever put together a whole boat!
thank YOU FOR THIS DEMO !!!
Great, helpful vid for the beginner. Who knew!
Repairing the international space station.
I noticed you said that the screw was stainless steel. You get a dissimilar metal reaction between stainless steel and aluminum. Effectively the aluminum will corrode away from the stainless steel . Always place an inert separator between stainless steel and aluminum e.g nylon or PTFE washer.
That’s going to be tough in this situation. Thanks for bringing it up though.
Electrolytic reaction.
@@usernamemykel Galvanic corrosion
I think that such projects may have a smoother result by using an aluminum flux. The flux will greatly help combat the rapidly forming oxide layer and allow rapid wetting of the surface.
nice work
Very relaxing
I agree. except for the melting rubber fumes.... I have other projects that will be much more enjoyable.
ASMR!!
rivet that back down first
The rivets were inside the bulkhead and inaccessible. The bulkhead hardware was corroded and I would have done more damage to "do it right." I have riveted a new rib in the middle, so skills weren't the issue.
Why not drill and put rivets back in along where the old rubber is?
The back side rotted away on a lot of them. This is inside the bulkhead area as well. It would require much more invasive work to get inside to re-rivet. We have been using JB weld for a couple decades now, but it only lasts so long.
I was wondering whether the larger area of riveted separation might have been amendable to welding an overlain, thicker gauge aluminum piece, effectively spanning the area of structural compromise. The areas of disruption and separation, involving riveted aluminum and a water tight rubber seal, would likely be associated with progressive weakening and further compromise of adjacent rivets and rubber sealing. Thanks!!
another person suggested a large patch as well... I think it would be tricky in this area, and this repair has help up quite well....
@@robdude1969 Good to hear it held up! I was thinking to pin it down with a screw then braze it closed. Afterward you could grind away the screw from the inside if needed.
@@michaelsimmons4883 most of this repair was ahead of the front bulkhead and not accessible from the inside. Thanks for the idea though!
Excellent demostrstion.
I'm new and I want to lern how to solder aluminum 2mm thick together and also to join aluminum with garvanized steel.
Can you make a video showing how to do it?
Should you do both sides?
Thanks for the video. I'm wondering if the rod metal would have flowed better if you had used some flux?
Me too
8:00 on I couldnt watch you try and braze the most sooty area on that whole canoe, unbelievable.
Mr. Sims the Titanic sank too. Crazy huh?!?
@@robdude1969 the rms Olympic sunk. Wearing the titanic's nametag, 1912 insurance fraud.
@@MrSims-ky2ne mind blown. new conspiracies every day.
social.shorthand.com/TitanicMystery/jCPyIbzzPVc/did-the-titanic-really-sink-or-was-it-olympic
I Blue demon triple play aluminum brazing rods braze cracked cast aluminum that is 1/8” thick, and approximately 8” long.
Unfortunately i ground a V- Grooves on both sides to prep it, but realized that when i go to braze the second side, the heat will loosen the first side.
I’m thinking to grind the grooves thru just enough to put a damn on one side so the aluminum rod can then flow thru to the other side, then just finish filling the groove.
Will this work?
If not could you please let me know if you have a better idea?
Good luck! Did it work?
Slow your torch down. Heats up the area more evenly & you get a better braze
Thanks for the tip!
That seam needs cleaning and acetone or alcohol before brazed. Adhesion and cleaning is important
Can u give me a link to where to Buy the brazzing rod
I think I would use JB Weld where that rubber is..
Thanks for sharing the info...How is the repair area's you made holding up? I have a Donor boat that needs this kind of repair?
Just getting ready to recycle old aluminium canoe I rescued for the metal recycling bin. I have some big holes from previous owners trying to weld smaller holes and making them bigger. Bought some aluminium plates to patch big holes. Would like to see this canoe on the water again. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Great video.
spend some time with it... bend your patches to fit curves well. hold your work flat or level and give it a try!
Thanks very much that was so helpful to me ! Very satisfying to watch too
good luck with your project! whatcha working on? It was fun to do... I can't wait to do another aluminum project. :-)
I will be repairing holes in a very old riveted aluminium boat which has been in the family for 3 generations.
It’s 11 foot 6 and has been everywhere .
@@Wheelabarraback I know the feeling... I have had mine since the 1970's. Let me know how it goes!
Yes I will I was going to weld it but saw you do a job on yours and decided to braise instead. I have to get the Mapp gas as I just have oxy and LPG . Oxy will obviously blow holes in the boat LPG too cool.
@@Wheelabarraback oxy-lpg is pretty stable. Thats my favorite fuel gas to braze with. Not for welding but perfect for brazing. Map gas takes significantly longer than oxy-lpg.
Excellent video to learn in one go. However please try and speak louder next time.
Thanks and well-done..
I will subscribe
Don't you think you might have crammed some up under that lip if you could not rivet it down and I am kinda lost as to why you did not??? I wont tell you what to do or how to do it, it is not my place but I am curious as to why on either :)
Thank you. I’m restoring an old Grumman Sport Boat and will use the same materials / procedures. I am going to use 2-part epoxy system with heat gun on most seems. What primer and paint did you use and how did it work? Thanks!
been using an oil based aluminum paint on it for years... hard to tell when it goes bad.... looks like the metal it's supposed to be!
Thank you
Next time you're trying to solder two pieces together like you are the boat get a flat head screwdriver to help push the breeze into the Gap to help hold it better also would have helped if you had something to hold that together with not trying to be mean but how well did this hold water what is it leaking more I ask because I seen some of the shield going up in flames
The video is short... I spent time on it until it was done. I did cut some of the rubber seal out. it was nasty when it went up!
thanks for making this video.
does that stuff work on cast aluminum ?
It works fine for cast aluminium, atleast Alutite brand works. d2y5sgsy8bbmb8.cloudfront.net/v2/5bd6727f-7015-576f-b1a4-fb46a9501b97/ShortForm-Generic-480p-16-9-1409173089793-rpcbe5.mp4
@Fat Italian to use Alutite and heat fix spot very hot (almost melting point) so it bonds with aluminium properly it makes very strong bond. but 2x 250mm rods cost like 40euro and it is quite risky if it is first time using it.
Fat Italian: cast aluminum not aluminum.
isn’t there a difference?
can you weld cast aluminum?
i’ll have someone do it if it’s possible.
@Fat Italian i hate you and your name,, i hate italians, full stop.. you make me sick
what brand of brazing rod are you using? looks nice
Never use a stainless steel wire wheel on aluminum believe it or not when aluminum and steel touch and make contact it will cause corrosion in the aluminum, I got taught that when I did autobody courses for the aluminum ford trucks
William Popow interesting. Never heard that before.
Mark it with Sharpe first and when it gets hot enough, the Sharpe will disappear.
interesting! Thanks.
@@robdude1969 I've seen similar stuff done with a torch, they get the soot all over the piece and they adjust the flame to heat it up, when the soot disappears, it's hot enough. I got the Sharpe trick off another old-timer.
@@jasonreynolds4050 I love it. Good to read it again... maybe I will remember it this time!
Put some Flux on there ig wont puddle up as bad
I wonder if you could use the brazing on the outside holes and jb weld the inside for more of reassurance or some epoxy on the inside ?
The whole repair is behind a bulkhead, but that would be great to seal the area. I have done this exact same technique on another canoe.
I wonder how hard it would be to just install new rivets.
To do this repair perfect, we would have needed access behind the bulkheads. It would have required rebuilding / replacing the bulkheads as well which were a bit worse off at their mounting points.... while this "patch" isn't ideal, it has been quite functional for years now.
Is pure aluminum??
No, it’s a much softer alloy that bonds to aluminum. Check the data sheets from manufacturer. Should be in the description.
How is this braze holding up 3 years later may I ask
Fantastic. Thanks for asking.
And how many trips do you think it’s held for
@@bloodrunspoo69 it doesn’t get a lot of use, but it is sitting exposed to the elements.
Time for a plasticized boat.
barf.
Can u send me the link to the rods u bought.
Check video description. Good luck!
Will does it leak
no leak.
oops I didn't see the brand name in title of video while ago.. anyways I will try to find some of that here in Bowling Green ky.
I have amazon links in the description to make it easy for you. Let us know how your project turns out!
Pls what kind of rod are you using?
I put link in description. cheers!
Good video. I am restoring a 1958 heavy plated aluminum 16' Springbok. Do you know if there is a better weld rod for such a boat?
S Campbell these worked great on mine. Take your time. Clean your aluminum well.
These rods hold 50k psi. The only thing they are not good for is over 1000 degree pieces, Like an Aluminum exhaust.
Any update on how the joints weathered over time?
sealed up great. I did paint the boat as well. ruclips.net/video/Od2VP52jzjA/видео.html
Unable to tip my boat.... Can I braze vertically?
good luck with that.
Bad day ?
Scott Jacobs it gets rather fluid. Gravity may affect your outcome. Really, I’m wishing you luck!
@@robdude1969 thank you
No chance you fixed a leak
@robdude1969 iv tried this but the alloy hull wouldnt get hot enough, yet small jobs works fine, i circled the area for 10mins and the hts2000 rods wouldnt melt on heated area, any pointers?
Mark n Renee is the area clean? Steel brush until shiny. Use mapp gas. Aside from that, not sure. Heat the hull and drag the rod into the hot metal.
hows the repair holding up? Looks effective!
I did this repair over a year and a half ago now, and it hasn't changed a bit. I did just smooth out the high spots, fill, and repaint it this week actually to get ready for summer.
@@robdude1969 nice! I hope my boat will never need a patch but it's nice to know there is a good solution
Will this work on a motorcycle cylinder block with a small hole? Does it not melt if the engine is hot?
not sure if it's ideal for your need, but your motorcycle block wont get as hot as this stuff needs to melt.
What is road by which welding is being done ,is it is of simple aluminium alloy and what is it called.
Blue Diamond Triple Play
great video. i have multiple spots to hit with brazing on my 78 boat.Have you tried other rods? i was about to spend big bucks on some super alloy 5 rods + flux, about 100 on amazon, ive also seen cheap ass fluxless rods at lowes for 5$...
Good luck! Let us know what you use and how it works.
Alumiweld @Horror Fright, just as good as any and inexpensive.
I used the same rod. I feel like the rod forms puddle for me and becomes very liquid and runny. How did you keep it from running away from you.
I had to level the canoe to fix just that.
Playdough
@@mikek4610 that's great!
Your using the flame to melt the rod, your gona have a weaker bond by doing that rather than just heat the surface of the item your welding.
agreed! thanks for your tip.
Is there a difference between brands if rod? It seems like there alot of choices out there.
I have only used the Blue Demon sticks... let us know your findings!
How in the world did you get a giant boat hot enough? Also, from what I understand, MAPP gas is no longer available.
@@robdude1969 I had a little time today to use aluminum rod for the first time. I had the Harbor Freight version and found it to be no problem. I had to try the aluminum can hole plug and it bridged over just fine. Joining light gage straps was a snap. Its ok in my book! This opens up a whole new world of projects using aluminum.
@@rtp3962 sweet... I had seen the rods there, but still have a ton of these. you plugged the mouth of a can?!?! I gotta try that!
@@robdude1969 no no. Not the mouth of the can. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the bottom and plugged that off. It bridged fine for that but I'm sure it wouldn't do the mouth. It opens up alot of projects for the future that I would like to do out of aluminum, but my mig and Tig skills wouldnt allow me to. It's fun non the less
Mine wont stick it just flakes off ?????? ?????????????? HELP
the surface probably isn't hot enough or clean enough.
An i also am using the kind rolld up like fishing string looking not a straight rod
Nice job, but clean the metal better. Any black spots should be bright fella. Just saying.
good tip. subsequent experiences proved that essential!!
@@robdude1969 Nice to have someone notice experience and take guidance from it too.
Can I use er 4043 or er 4047 for this application 🙄
These are a zinc rod. A welder would turn that brittle metal to dust.
Can we see if it leaks?
The holes I filled did their job. The brazed areas were sanded to remove high and rough spots. Next is a fresh coat of aluminum paint. I may do a part two video of that soon.
Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/Od2VP52jzjA/видео.html
Does it last? Or does it start to separate like JB Weld..?
Hugh Stratton it lasts.
@@robdude1969 ok..I'm going to try it on my boat
hi there..could i use this to stick 1.5mm carbon steel together?
try it and let us know your results. I used these on aluminum.
@@skiffintherift9179 are you serious? coat hangers melt like that?!?!?! all I have is plastic! I can't even go try it to see if your joking or not!
@@skiffintherift9179 after you said that, I found a couple references to it with oxy... it would be interesting to try! Maybe a new video!
I wonder if there's something that would dissolve the rubber and paint in the cracks. Maybe acetone?
there is a strip about an inch wide running the entire length of the canoe.
So can u do this on horizontal. Boat can't be moved
gravity pulls the puddle down.... may consult a welder if this isn't an option. TIG would be next choice, but not as easy, so check with a pro.
@@robdude1969 yep I'm a pro. Don't want to pay sum to run argon. Aluium boat so thin, wuts. Scares me
You gotta get it flat. It goes liquid fast.
Did it sealed after burning the old rüber?
yes - but the worst part is the foam in the bulkhead has suffered.
@@robdude1969 I wonder why!
Good job anyways!
Andre Demetrio the worst part is that the bulkhead is quite sealed and getting new foam in there will be a challenge.
@@robdude1969 Rob, Aluminum is always very tricky because of the aluminum oxide, it is very hard and smooth micro structure, does not to like to stick with anything.
West systems sells a etching kit, you can do the etching to remove the oxide and improve the "roughness" of the surface, then you can apply a "flexible" epoxy fillet to make the good seal.
I have use the gflex and it was good for me.
Check it out!
www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-655-thickened-epoxy-adhesive/
You need to work on your heat placement and rod control. Nevertheless, thanks!
Jeremy's HVAC Journey this was my first try. Thanks. I’m guessing you use a lot of this in hvac.
@@robdude1969 I've never brazed aluminum, we throw it away on jobs and replace it with copper or PEX lol.. But in my experience I always concentrate my heat on the piping or materials first, get it red cherry hot, super close to melting, then move my flame to the fitting, joint, T, ect.. I'm not an expert but it could've been done a little differently. Either way no hate bro, appreciate you posting this!
@@robdude1969 I use a B Tank and Extreme Turbo Torch setup - it's Acetylene / Air. Just because it's easier to lug around as opposed to 2 bottles with Oxygen/Acetylene.
Jeremy's HVAC Journey I have a copper pipe job coming up. One day. A bunch of old valves all the way to the main. Each one has a slow drip.
@@robdude1969 Nice! I'd be brazing all of that copper! 😂 BUT Propress is the big boy stuff now, takes all of the fun out of burning stuff up! Ha
A wise man once said..."If you caht fix it, FUCK IT and Duck it". duct tape to the rescue .
Use electric rod for the flux
Do you need flux?
Non. Just clean it with sandcloth or brush with a ss wire brush
This guy's like a three year old with a coloring book. I think you need more experience my friend. And why didn't you hammer down that strip before brazing? That's ok, we learn as we go. Good luck with your channel.
What is MAP gas?
en.wikipedia.org › wiki › MAPP_gas
"MAPP gas" is a trademarked name, belonging to The Linde Group, and previously belonging to the Dow Chemical Company, for a fuel gas based on a stabilized mixture of methylacetylene (propyne) and propadiene. The name comes from the original chemical composition, methylacetylene-propadiene propane.
It shows you where you are headed...lol
It's a hotter gas than propane, so you can get back to your video games quicker. Costs a little more though.
Aku jajal kok ra iso pak?
Gort, Klatuu says to incinerate the earthing's military tanks.
Always wear a Respirator when welding
good advice....
If u know how to weld, the pain to watch
Not everyone has a welder set up for aluminum.
This was painful to watch but hopefully it works better than the JB Weld he said they've used for 30+ years 😂
Volume!😂
sorry - I wish youtube had a normalize volume feature.
This is none of my business, I know. I am sure your repair did NOT make a difference.
It plugged the leaks. Thanks for your thoughts.