@@WasherDryerMoney Do all washers have that cause I have mine open and can see all components and I don't see it. Maybe I'm overlooking it. And it's either red or black. I have a Maytag older top load similar to the one here
I just replaced the shift actuator on my machine. The agitation did not work after that. After a lot of troubleshooting I finally realized that I tightened the pulley nut so much that it was not disengaging the teeth from splutch. After determining this I reattached the pulley and more carefully tightened the nut. It works fine now. There is absolutely no information anywhere about this happening. I hope this helps someone.
Sounds like this might be the problem I am having. I replaced the entire washer drive pulley. Ran the Agitate Manual test and it still makes a grinding noise. Its as if the larger 4in. pully wheel is not disengaging from the smaller gear. How did you determine how much was too tight? Every video that I've seen, they tightened the nut all the way.
Thanks for the video. I just took my Maytag Centennial washer apart and brought these parts to my local appliance dealer/repairman. He said the teeth looked fine so the problem was likely the transmission and would be very costly. I put the same parts back on and made sure the nut was tight. No more grinding. ZERO COST REPAIR!! Thanks again!!
After watching many other videos, I come back to this. It’s the only one that shows you exactly what’s ( possibly) wrong with the drive, and how to fix it. You are the man!
Bam this helped so much. My washer had sucked a ton of dryer lint into the square opening (or a mouse made a little nest in there). At the 2:34 moment I thought AHA that's it. Got out the shop vac and sucked it all out. I'd already ordered the kit and put it in. Back to washing clothes and not shopping washers. THANK YOU
I want to thank you for this video. As others in the comments have said, there are many repair videos out there that show how to replace parts on the appliance, but they do not explain why it needs to be fixed or the issues the unit was having. Your video was helpful in determining what problem I was having and how to fix it. Thank you for explaining what the parts are for and how they work. Your video is how I fixed my washer for $40 and 10 minutes of "work" instead of paying someone else to do it. Thank you again.
Just bought the parts and the wife is still negative about the repair. But I am fully confident you hit the nail on the head of our problem. Will update you once the parts are replaced.
Thank you super duper much my dude. I just ripped my machine's bottom off and deduced that it was the actuator and your video was a life saver. I was done, from start to finish, in less than 30 minutes!!!!
Nice! Thanks. Watched a dozen vids to figure out whats wrong with my machine. You are the only one who nailed it! No need though to pull the drive out. It's easy enough to tilt the machine to get at all that.
I've watched like a dozen videos and this is the first one that explained the problem well. I probably would have replaced the actuator and burned it up if I didn't know to clean out the gear assembly. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the video, partner. My washer was making a grinding noise. Turns out, the Shift Actuator wasnt opening the Splutch up. When the washer wanted to agitate (which is a quick rotation motion from the motor), the whole washer barrel was still engaged, thus a grinding noise resulted. I replaced the Shifter and it works great. I refered this video on other washer troubleshooting videos regarding this same issue.
I want to thank you for showing a clear picture of the circle white part and how it goes together before it goes on. You're just about the only person that showed that and I appreciate you thank you. 😊
@@WasherDryerMoney It will help.. These washers are notorious for this and to be honest they should have never been out on the market.. I honestly repair and sell used appliances for a living and I cannot stand the new stuff it's absolute junk these people should be put in jail for sabotaging the public.
Dude, you just cleared up everything that was bugging the $h€€T out of me! Brand new Whirlpool(less than a year). Got fixed through the warranty and went out again. My first whirlpool lasted 21 years. These new 5000dw3? No comment. Thank you.
This is a SUPERB video about these machines !! Especially where cleaning them and buying the parts are so cheap compared to replacing the machine only to eventually have the same parts & malfunctions. Thank You SO MUCH !!!
Wonderful video !!! Originally I got ripped off by the appliance repair guy from Sears who came over to check the washer . He ran a two minute self disagnoses and said it would cost over $600 for a new control board to repair so it wouldn't be worth fixing and gave me a 10% off coupon to buy a new one at Sears and charged me the $79 diagnoses fee . After watching a few of these videos I found out it was the actuator so I bought a new one for $25 , took ten minuts to install and now the machine works perfect. Sears pulled a total rip off scam to get you to buy a new one. I complained to consumer affairs but they said it's legal to scam and cheat consumers and they really don't so anything down there except collect their government pay.
I am ready to tackle the problem after watching this video. ( I changed the belt earlier but it wasn’t the problem.) I liked and subscribed to the channel due to the comprehensive description of the problem and repair, but also due to the kitten and due to the fact that the repairman was barefoot!
Had a "repair" guy come and see my Kenmore 200 series washer and dude didn't even check under the washer for any of that...since it didn't start dumping water instead of resetting the washer he said it was the transmission and off the back was already trying to sell his overpriced used washers.
Had a "repair" guy come and see my Kenmore 200 series washer and dude didn't even check under the washer for any of that...since it didn't start dumping water instead of resetting the washer he said it was the transmission and off the back was already trying to sell his overpriced used washers.
Thank you for the grinding noise you made when spinning the green part. That’s the noise my washer is making…like a slipping noise…reminds me of toy cars when you would pull the plastic rip cord (70’s 80’s). Looked at many videos to explain this noise. Only you made the noise. Thank you. My washer fills, agitates, drains. No spin. Only makes that grind noise when it tries to engage the spin . I still need to call someone to do this. But I feel educated ahead of time.
Excellent video and dialogue. There are so many fixit videos that are useless. Kudos for being so thorough and on the mark. Really like these new clutch systems. When I first looked at the machine and not knowing how it worked I saw the Shift Actuator and the pissant motor and without knowing or understanding... pointed my finger at it as the cause. Thanks.
Glad to help. Be sure to put white lithium grease in the White plastic area that The actuator moves. A lot of times that’s what makes the it go out. that area not being well lubricated.
Hey,thx bro. Very kind of you to share your knowledge, as I've watched several others but I search yours first,as you explain clear&concise without all the blah blah 😉
This is the best video regarding this topic on RUclips. I love the explanation and the demonstration so that I could actually be sure that the noise mine was making lined up. Thank you, when I get mine apart I will use your link!
mine started to grind last week and this video explained so much. I'm in demolition and my work clothing would have sands and small stone chip that will get caught in gears. I was just about to go purchase new washer this week but I going to take it apart first. thanks for the upload. cheers
Video is 🔥🔥🔥. Replaced the shift actuator. Checked all my wires one was loose and made sure the belt was good. Works like a charm and the washing machine is super quiet. Salute…
Thank You! Excellent video and help! Mine is grinding and not spinning. Now that I see the mechanics of the transmission, the repair will be easy. !!!!!!!!!!
Awesome just what i needed i bought a new gearcase and was still making that loud grinding noise, i sent it back thinking it was bad from the factory and replacement kept doing the same exact noise and just got the answer i needed thanks. !!!
Thank you so much for posting this!! Our warranty recently expired and (of course... 🙄) our machine started making this grinding noise a week later. I will definitely be trying this!
My machine leaves clothes sopping wet. It drains, but doesn't spin. I've replaced the actuator, splutch assembly and lid lock, all with new parts and it still won't spin. Any ideas on what my next step could be? I really don't want to have to buy a new machine! Thanks!
Replaced the actuator from the affiliate link and it did the job perfectly. Note that the part is available MUCH cheaper from other sources on Amazon. I paid $36.99 from the affiliate link, but could have gotten for as little as $19.89 from other listings.
Oh my thank you! Your video showing the actuator problem and explanation of cleaning it was top rate! Saved me lots of time and money! I subscribed! I'll be sure to send you a little something for saving me!!!!
the reason the sensors are there is to make sure the drum stops spinning before it shifts. If it were spinning when it shifts, it would strip the plastic teeth right off the plastic gears.
Great explanation. I'm insatiably curious and this hit the spot. Some videos point out where it goes and show you the part but this explains the mechanics behind it and why these motors burn out. I had tons of grit and "stuff" in my system and I can see why the motor was always fighting against it. BTW, what led me here were videos on understanding the Maytag error codes (mine was F7E1) and how to "Nintendo" the console. e.g. Right, Right, Right, Left, Right to access diagnostics.
yo are the goat man , i changed my lid lock an still getting that exact problem you're describing i'm gonna take it apart an solve my problem today thanks for the video dude you just thought me how to fish...
Thank you for your videos I like the way you explain how the parts work in the system. I especially liked the video about the "sealed" gear case where you drained the oil out and replaced it with grease. I've been working on machines for a few years now and don't know everything but that seems like a genius idea for a machine that is built to fail, generally on the expensive parts like the gear case. Making it impossible to just replace the bearings. I'm going to try your method of fixing mine, what do I stand to lose I can't break it more if it's already broke lol. Thanks again!
Good video Money. You break down the maytag very well. I have a no spin-sometimes spin w/grind (mostly no spin, wet clothes). I started with replacing the splutch, although the original looked pretty good (no luck). Replaced the shift actuator...still same situation. I've noticed what appears to be fine grindings and oily residue inside and on the belt guard. ??? Any ideas?
make sure you oil the area where the shifter goes back and forth. It should easily move. if it's stiff even putting a new actuator on will not work. I'm not sure what the oil and fine dust would be. I have seen this in some machines.
Thank you very much for your info. We purchased a hotpoint washer for a temp residence, and it was making that grinding noise. Only during the wash cycle spin cycle is always quiet. So I will replace motor and clean gear. Will follow up once I am done
Thank you. It's truly sad how poorly these new appliances are built. My Whirlpool washer is only 5 years old and this is out. It's had a grinding noise for quite some time. The Maytag I had was nearly 40 years old. Again thanks
I got the f7e5 code which led me to your channel and you make this look easy. It suddenly only grinds during the priming mode of the wash cycles and then abruptly cuts off completely. It also threw out f7e0, f7e3, f7e9, AND f5e3. I reset the machine and check the circuit board and saw the blinking LED and the only code now is the f7e5.
I just checked this video. (By the way great video) I have a Roper with the same actuator and pulley system like in the video. The washer will fill, will agitate for a while but it will not drain. I have to hit the start button to force it to drain. After that the washer will stop the cycle. It will not do the 1st spin cycle and the final spin cycle. When I put the washer on diagnostic mode to drain, I can hear the water draining but no spinning is happening. Something is slipping that does not make it spin. I can see the attempt to spin but it is slipping. The agitator inside the tub I checked the teeth it is fine. I purchased a new actuator via amazon, thinking that might be the issue. Same one on the video you are mentioning. I replaced it and I am having the same exact issue. The belt pulley is fine, not broken. The motor is fine since the washer is agitating. The plastic component with the three parts I checked it, it is not broken, and the wheel is fine. So, what can be the issue? I need your help on this because, I am not going to purchase a washer. I know it is a simple fix. But I can't put my finger on it.
Great video. My Bravos washer MVWX655DW1 was experiencing several issues mainly the drum moving with the wash plate instead of the wash plate moving by itself. This situation lead me to believe the actuator wasn’t shifting. Other water level issues ensued but after watching this video I learned the actuator does way more than shift the drum/plate. So, I purchased the actuator, W10913953,($60 local, could not wait for Amazon bc laundry stacking up) which is only 2 screws to repair. When I dropped the actuator out a small 1/8” plastic pin fell out of the shifter body. This is not the main pin, it was tiny and part of the internal shifter cam. After replacing it I ran a calibration (not diagnosis) scan and all is well now. Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge on these newer style washers. I still prefer metal mechanical units over these newer computer driven plastic money pits. Good luck!
Just changed everything you talked about. Went smoothly except I’m still struggling to get the belt back on. If there’s a trick, add it here for the next guy. I’m sure I’ll have it figured out myself. However, where you said the clips might be hard to squeeze to get them off, you don’t have to squeeze anything, it just twists off easily!
Best info on my washer in a long time ! Thank you . Most of these DIY POST are all trying to sell parts by posting repair info that includes their parts ! You are posting info that is real ! Lol Been working on my Whirlpool Almost 2 weeks so far . Just did what you posted and we will see if that corrects my short start spin and stops ? Will be back later and let you know. Thanks
Hi, I'm from Mumbai in India using the Whirlpool 651s fully automatic Top Load molded plastic version made for our Asian Market. The Machine suddenly had stopped spinning one day I tried to change the Capacitor & nothing changed. So I called the Technician to check out diagnosed the fault to be in the gearbox. Even advised to buy a new Machine as the new Gearbox would be of same cost. After he left saw I your video understood the root cause. I rocked the Machine few times & the gear got released & spinning has resumed. We're using borewell water for the house salts have deposited inside the actuator my guess would be better to remove this & clean up thoroughly to avoid a problem in future. Thank you for the video it has a good length easy explanation. I welcome your thoughts about how to get the actuator out for removal of salts
The best part of the video was seeing your adorable kitten. Hehe On a serious note I have this washer and I am praying it is not the bearings that have gone out. I will check this problem though.
Yeah my kitten has grown up into a cat now. She's still cute though. When bearings are going out in these type of machines they get really loud in spin cycle.
Yea that’s what mine is doing. I was messing around with it last night. Know not a thing but did some research the proper term are the drum bearings. I was thinking it was the actual “transmission” that drives the pulley that has the problem but it’s not I do need a new belt though mines all gummy and you never mentioned what a pain the pulley wheel was to get off. ;) lol
Hello. Thank you for making this video. It is very helpful. We are attempting to repair a Maytag Model No. MVWC360AW0. Back in March, the washer wouldn’t drain and the sensing light was flashing. We first replaced the shift actuator. Then, having not resolved the issue, replaced the drain pump. Noteworthy, we have never been able to get the control panel to enter diagnostic mode. A friend installed the parts and I believe he recalibrated the machine afterwards but can’t be certain. Once repaired, the machine was up and running until about a week ago. Now the symptoms are that the agitator and spin basket are locked up. It doesn’t budge. We disassembled the inside…removed the wash plate and doin basket. There is nothing. On the underside, after removing the protector, we tried to move the cam assembly by moving the drive belt. It does not move freely. A visual inspection shows no oil or evidence of an issue with the gearcase. However, after removing the nut and the cam, there is dirt and oil around the inner lumen of the gears near the shaft. How may we determine if the gearcase is bad? What could seize the agitator/spin shaft?
Oh that is a uncommon problem. I haven’t countered it but it’s been a very long time and I can’t remember exactly what it was. I feel like maybe it’s a bad transmission. The transmissions in those washers are not really made to be worked on. If you look through my videos I disassemble that transmission and give my opinion of how it works. This video helps. Good luck. ruclips.net/video/2ImQbNrdblY/видео.html
Thank you so much.... I actually just needed to replace the belt. It was shredded. I could not understand what that burning smell was. 🥺 Because of your video, I was able to understand the breakdown of my machine and locate my issue. 👌
Thank you for explaining the potential cause. After replacing my actuator, my washer worked great for 1 day. At least we got caught up in our laundry. But the new actuator broke in the same location. Small plastic piece that rotates the arm. After removing the splutch, I found dirty grease but I also found worn splines. I hope a new splutch kit and actuator will solve this.
Very good video, mine was grinding. was going to check the actuator when I took the belt off the motor pulley came off too. so that was the problem and it cast only $20 bucks to fix it.
Interesting. Are you saying the pulley just came off when you went to take the belt off. So it was missing the nut that holds it on. That nut I have had come loose and cause havoc before but I’ve never had them for all the way off. I do recommend putting a tiny bit of thread lock on those nuts so they don’t come back loose. If you look close, you’ll see the factory put some on as well.
Yup you nailed it my man! After my Kenmore machine failed in "stuck in stupid" mode - meaning start a cycle and the thing senses 2 times then the lid latches and the lid lock light blinks . . . and blinks . . . So I ran the diagnostics and got codes for sure . . . which told me that the thing failed to wash and rinse - duh. So I opted to replace the actuator for $55, no big deal, right? Except that did nothing to clear the problem - same thing - locked lid with blinking light which simply means that "something" went wrong to start the cycle. SOOOO . . .I came upon your collection of clips here on good old RUclips and watched several in order to get a good idea of what was going on during these assorted cycles. I popped all the hoses back off and flipped the machine back over and dug back in and this time I pulled the belt and drive wheel off the transmission and actioned the arm and all that stuff inside the shifter and gears (aka the "splutch" in the insiders circle - splined clutch perhaps?). Everything moved smoother than a babies butt so I put it all back together. and tried again with fingers crossed and some prayer . . .and . . .wait for it . . .BINGO! We are back in business mister! OOOO-RAH in USMC vernacular. It is so very satisfying when one can make a simple machine (???) do what it supposed to do. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and put them up for others to see!!!!😃😁
Awesome video. I have a maytag bravos MVWX655DW1. It started making that plastic grinding noise so I replaced that plastic hub under the wash plate but to no avail. It will go through the cycle with grinding noise and when it come to the final rinse and spin it will not spin cycle completely to remove water from clothes it does not finish the cycle and the tub will shake really bad also. Hopefully my description can lead to any type of helpful conclusion. Thank you
Thank you so much this really helped me man just saved the day. Luckily mine was just something caught in the like water pump but I also used it as a chance to clean that spot and glad I did it was quite dirty
great video and good understanding of how this machine works. i get alot of these hope you have other videos on other repairs on these and i usually just walk on them. But i would like to know more about them thnaks again for the video.
GM. I have a Frigidaire Max Fill Top washer that Makes a really bad gridding noise while it initiates the pre wash cycle (weighing clothes), While it moves (agitates) from left to right its ok but as soon as it tries to turn the opposite it grinds and gets stuck. I have to do one of the scans for 3 minutes or more before it stops gridding and functions correctly. it will wash all loads with no problem until the following week and it will start again. Thank you. Blessed Holidays
Sub’d!! Awesome video/explanation! I have this machine and it just stopped agitating in the middle of a cycle and I like to never have gotten the dang lid open. Was stuck closed. Tons of videos suggest it is the drive hub, but after disassembling it and looking at it, it does have some worn splines, but it seems to fit snuggly. After reassembling, the machine, it did fine and made it all the way through a load with no problem. I figure if it were the drive hub, I would have heard some type of grinding, which I did not. After watching more videos, I started to think the actuator might be bad. It was suggested by another technician on RUclips to clean the spludge, which I will do today. I also found out how to put it in test mod and it passed all tests involving agitation, with flying colors. I just with I could be more sure it is the actuator and not something else, so that I’m not just throwing money at it? Thanks in advance for your time, I greatly appreciate it!!! And again, awesome video!! Hard to find such great, in-depth information, from knowledgeable individuals! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for posting this. It was a help in replacing the clutch and actuator on my whirlpool washer. Still have one problem: there is still a short, loud grinding noise when the machine gets to the very end of the final spin cycle, just before switching to "done"; Like maybe the clutch is not fully disengaging at that point. Any suggestions?
Thank you for sharing I hope that's what's wrong with my. hot point washer it sounds like it's sawing wood when it's on the wash cycle only thank you onced again for sharing
Very informative video thanks for doing this! I have several things to check now! Capacitor actuator & the innards above the pulley 💪🙏🏽👌 it fills & drains… jus won’t wash or spin!?
If you mean the rubber piece inside of the end of the transmission, I’m not sure that is serviceable. The bigger issue might be finding a replacement. I have removed the washer that holds back the gear case oil from leaking on the belt. The issue was it was a weird shaped rubber piece that I could never find a new one. That is the big downfall of that machine. The transmission is just not made to be serviced, and even if you do go to the trouble of removing a bad piece out of the transmission there are not replacement pieces that I could fine. They want you to replace the entire transmission which is pricey.
I like the way you're step by step on you're video's, the machine would not agitate,so not noting,I went to check the dogs ,there are none,started to remove agitator the bolt would not come out ,so I resorted to the 4/4 and jack Methodist ,it worked but pulled the shaft out of the trans. The spanner nut I had to cut off,and stuff got into the trans. So I took it all the way down,cleaned trans. Installed grease and putting back together ,I'll let you know what happens.
Thanks super helpful! I replaced the actuator on my machine without doing the other steps, to check that first, but now, as soon as i plug it in, it starts clicking. Worried i broke something 😕
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you, i just placed an order using your affiliate link.
Thanks
@@WasherDryerMoney hey I have amana washer it spin and drain but doesn’t wash the clothes
@@WasherDryerMoney
Do all washers have that cause I have mine open and can see all components and I don't see it. Maybe I'm overlooking it. And it's either red or black. I have a Maytag older top load similar to the one here
I watched so many of these washer videos and the kitten at 3:08 really broke up the monotony. Thanks for that. Super cutie.
Thank you for saving these retired people so much money!
Glad to help
❤😂😂😂
I just replaced the shift actuator on my machine. The agitation did not work after that. After a lot of troubleshooting I finally realized that I tightened the pulley nut so much that it was not disengaging the teeth from splutch. After determining this I reattached the pulley and more carefully tightened the nut. It works fine now. There is absolutely no information anywhere about this happening. I hope this helps someone.
Interesting
Sounds like this might be the problem I am having. I replaced the entire washer drive pulley. Ran the Agitate Manual test and it still makes a grinding noise. Its as if the larger 4in. pully wheel is not disengaging from the smaller gear. How did you determine how much was too tight? Every video that I've seen, they tightened the nut all the way.
Thank you for putting this out there to see
Thank you for putting this out there to see
I did the same thing. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the video. I just took my Maytag Centennial washer apart and brought these parts to my local appliance dealer/repairman. He said the teeth looked fine so the problem was likely the transmission and would be very costly.
I put the same parts back on and made sure the nut was tight. No more grinding.
ZERO COST REPAIR!! Thanks again!!
Yeah, I’ve seen that nut come slightly loose and create the grinding noise. There is supposed to be thread lock on it.
I’m glad you got it fixed.
If you have a loose nut... add threadlock.
After watching many other videos, I come back to this. It’s the only one that shows you exactly what’s ( possibly) wrong with the drive, and how to fix it.
You are the man!
Thanks.
I’m going to make a better detailed version of this video.
Bam this helped so much. My washer had sucked a ton of dryer lint into the square opening (or a mouse made a little nest in there). At the 2:34 moment I thought AHA that's it. Got out the shop vac and sucked it all out. I'd already ordered the kit and put it in. Back to washing clothes and not shopping washers. THANK YOU
Glad to help
I want to thank you for this video. As others in the comments have said, there are many repair videos out there that show how to replace parts on the appliance, but they do not explain why it needs to be fixed or the issues the unit was having. Your video was helpful in determining what problem I was having and how to fix it. Thank you for explaining what the parts are for and how they work. Your video is how I fixed my washer for $40 and 10 minutes of "work" instead of paying someone else to do it. Thank you again.
Glad to help
amazing video and description of operation. So many youtubers could learn a lot from watching this AND best of all, no annoying music. Thank you.
Glad you liked it.
Just bought the parts and the wife is still negative about the repair. But I am fully confident you hit the nail on the head of our problem. Will update you once the parts are replaced.
So how’d it go? 😂
Thank you super duper much my dude. I just ripped my machine's bottom off and deduced that it was the actuator and your video was a life saver. I was done, from start to finish, in less than 30 minutes!!!!
Nice! Thanks. Watched a dozen vids to figure out whats wrong with my machine. You are the only one who nailed it! No need though to pull the drive out. It's easy enough to tilt the machine to get at all that.
How do I test the actuator/ transmission with multimeter
Glad to help
I've watched like a dozen videos and this is the first one that explained the problem well. I probably would have replaced the actuator and burned it up if I didn't know to clean out the gear assembly. Thank you so much!
Great Demonstration---SIMPLE---DETAIL BREAKDOWN---VERY EDUCATIONAL---THANK YOU AGAIN MBF.
Glad to help
Thanks for the video, partner. My washer was making a grinding noise. Turns out, the Shift Actuator wasnt opening the Splutch up. When the washer wanted to agitate (which is a quick rotation motion from the motor), the whole washer barrel was still engaged, thus a grinding noise resulted. I replaced the Shifter and it works great.
I refered this video on other washer troubleshooting videos regarding this same issue.
I want to thank you for showing a clear picture of the circle white part and how it goes together before it goes on. You're just about the only person that showed that and I appreciate you thank you. 😊
Glad to help.
I’m planning to do an even more in-depth video on this subject with a lot more pictures soon.
@@WasherDryerMoney It will help.. These washers are notorious for this and to be honest they should have never been out on the market.. I honestly repair and sell used appliances for a living and I cannot stand the new stuff it's absolute junk these people should be put in jail for sabotaging the public.
Dude, you just cleared up everything that was bugging the $h€€T out of me!
Brand new Whirlpool(less than a year). Got fixed through the warranty and went out again.
My first whirlpool lasted 21 years. These new 5000dw3? No comment.
Thank you.
This is a SUPERB video about these machines !! Especially where cleaning them and buying the parts are so cheap compared to replacing the machine only to eventually have the same parts & malfunctions. Thank You SO MUCH !!!
Glad to help
Thanks I've been looking forever trying to find somebody that can explain the actuator part on these belt drives well explained thank you
Wonderful video !!! Originally I got ripped off by the appliance repair guy from Sears who came over to check the washer . He ran a two minute self disagnoses and said it would cost over $600 for a new control board to repair so it wouldn't be worth fixing and gave me a 10% off coupon to buy a new one at Sears and charged me the $79 diagnoses fee . After watching a few of these videos I found out it was the actuator so I bought a new one for $25 , took ten minuts to install and now the machine works perfect. Sears pulled a total rip off scam to get you to buy a new one. I complained to consumer affairs but they said it's legal to scam and cheat consumers and they really don't so anything down there except collect their government pay.
I love your little helper! I have a baby that always "helps" dad too
I am ready to tackle the problem after watching this video. ( I changed the belt earlier but it wasn’t the problem.) I liked and subscribed to the channel due to the comprehensive description of the problem and repair, but also due to the kitten and due to the fact that the repairman was barefoot!
Had a "repair" guy come and see my Kenmore 200 series washer and dude didn't even check under the washer for any of that...since it didn't start dumping water instead of resetting the washer he said it was the transmission and off the back was already trying to sell his overpriced used washers.
Had a "repair" guy come and see my Kenmore 200 series washer and dude didn't even check under the washer for any of that...since it didn't start dumping water instead of resetting the washer he said it was the transmission and off the back was already trying to sell his overpriced used washers.
Lol
Thank you for the grinding noise you made when spinning the green part. That’s the noise my washer is making…like a slipping noise…reminds me of toy cars when you would pull the plastic rip cord (70’s 80’s). Looked at many videos to explain this noise. Only you made the noise. Thank you.
My washer fills, agitates, drains. No spin. Only makes that grind noise when it tries to engage the spin . I still need to call someone to do this. But I feel educated ahead of time.
Excellent video and dialogue. There are so many fixit videos that are useless. Kudos for being so thorough and on the mark. Really like these new clutch systems. When I first looked at the machine and not knowing how it worked I saw the Shift Actuator and the pissant motor and without knowing or understanding... pointed my finger at it as the cause. Thanks.
Glad to help. Be sure to put white lithium grease in the White plastic area that The actuator moves. A lot of times that’s what makes the it go out. that area not being well lubricated.
@@WasherDryerMoney will this work on a washer that has new aggatzter
Hey,thx bro. Very kind of you to share your knowledge, as I've watched several others but I search yours first,as you explain clear&concise without all the blah blah 😉
Man, I stopped paying attention to your demo after the kitty came to help. I gotta watch that section again. XD
lol
This is the best video regarding this topic on RUclips. I love the explanation and the demonstration so that I could actually be sure that the noise mine was making lined up. Thank you, when I get mine apart I will use your link!
Finally a clear explanation! Thank you my bare footed friend!
LOL you’re welcome
mine started to grind last week and this video explained so much. I'm in demolition and my work clothing would have sands and small stone chip that will get caught in gears. I was just about to go purchase new washer this week but I going to take it apart first. thanks for the upload. cheers
THANK YOU!!!!!! So hard to find proper troubleshooting videos like this.
Glad to help.
Great explanation of how actuator and splutch work together and how one can cause the other to fail.
Thanks a lot for the video. Once you duplicated the noise I knew that was my problem.
Glad to help
thank you very much you just cleared all my confusion how to install back everything.
Video is 🔥🔥🔥. Replaced the shift actuator. Checked all my wires one was loose and made sure the belt was good. Works like a charm and the washing machine is super quiet. Salute…
Glad to help
Thank You! Excellent video and help! Mine is grinding and not spinning. Now that I see the mechanics of the transmission, the repair will be easy. !!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for the exact tutorial I needed. Perfectly presented so even I could understand it.
Glad to help
Ratz! Seems like I just serviced this beast. Thanks for the confidence to re-try.@@WasherDryerMoney
Ok, just ordered the red actuator on Amazon. Here's to hoping this is an easy fix. Thanks for the simple explanation.
Awesome just what i needed i bought a new gearcase and was still making that loud grinding noise, i sent it back thinking it was bad from the factory and replacement kept doing the same exact noise and just got the answer i needed thanks. !!!
Glad to help
Thank you! One of these pieces was actually broken! I was so frustrated after replacing the actuator and the problem was still happening.
Thank you so much for posting this!! Our warranty recently expired and (of course... 🙄) our machine started making this grinding noise a week later. I will definitely be trying this!
Glad to help
Gonna try this. The only video I found that was helpful so far. Thank you for the clear understanding explanation
If I would've watched yours first it would've saved me the time I spent watching the other 20 Maytag videos... and they didn't have a cat. co-star
It's true I'm one of the only appliance repair guys with a cat sidekick. Lol
Absolutely right @CJ Burton
My machine leaves clothes sopping wet. It drains, but doesn't spin. I've replaced the actuator, splutch assembly and lid lock, all with new parts and it still won't spin. Any ideas on what my next step could be? I really don't want to have to buy a new machine! Thanks!
@@JohnHawkridge Did you ever get that figured out?
@@chipsawdust5816 nope. Been going to the laundromat every weekend. Looking to buy another machine.
Replaced the actuator from the affiliate link and it did the job perfectly. Note that the part is available MUCH cheaper from other sources on Amazon. I paid $36.99 from the affiliate link, but could have gotten for as little as $19.89 from other listings.
Great presentation it matches my issue
Glad to help.
Oh my thank you! Your video showing the actuator problem and explanation of cleaning it was top rate! Saved me lots of time and money! I subscribed! I'll be sure to send you a little something for saving me!!!!
the reason the sensors are there is to make sure the drum stops spinning before it shifts. If it were spinning when it shifts, it would strip the plastic teeth right off the plastic gears.
Great explanation. I'm insatiably curious and this hit the spot. Some videos point out where it goes and show you the part but this explains the mechanics behind it and why these motors burn out. I had tons of grit and "stuff" in my system and I can see why the motor was always fighting against it. BTW, what led me here were videos on understanding the Maytag error codes (mine was F7E1) and how to "Nintendo" the console. e.g. Right, Right, Right, Left, Right to access diagnostics.
Amazing video! I was able to figure my problem out, and I learnt so much thanks to you 💪🏼❤️🙌
Glad to help
yo are the goat man , i changed my lid lock an still getting that exact problem you're describing i'm gonna take it apart an solve my problem today thanks for the video dude you just thought me how to fish...
Thank you for your videos I like the way you explain how the parts work in the system. I especially liked the video about the "sealed" gear case where you drained the oil out and replaced it with grease. I've been working on machines for a few years now and don't know everything but that seems like a genius idea for a machine that is built to fail, generally on the expensive parts like the gear case. Making it impossible to just replace the bearings. I'm going to try your method of fixing mine, what do I stand to lose I can't break it more if it's already broke lol. Thanks again!
Yeah I love taking things apart and seeing how they work.
If you get the grease in the gear case and it works well be sure to let me know.
I took that all apart and replace the actuator and it still does it .New actuator no dirt or sand !
Good video Money. You break down the maytag very well. I have a no spin-sometimes spin w/grind (mostly no spin, wet clothes). I started with replacing the splutch, although the original looked pretty good (no luck). Replaced the shift actuator...still same situation. I've noticed what appears to be fine grindings and oily residue inside and on the belt guard. ??? Any ideas?
make sure you oil the area where the shifter goes back and forth. It should easily move. if it's stiff even putting a new actuator on will not work. I'm not sure what the oil and fine dust would be. I have seen this in some machines.
Thank you so much for helping me out I have not seen this style yet you take away the confusion you are the best
Glad to help
Thank you very much for your info. We purchased a hotpoint washer for a temp residence, and it was making that grinding noise. Only during the wash cycle spin cycle is always quiet. So I will replace motor and clean gear. Will follow up once I am done
Omg when that baby calico came in I lost all focus lol.
Yeah everyone loves Kitcat.
SAME
Thank you. It's truly sad how poorly these new appliances are built. My Whirlpool washer is only 5 years old and this is out. It's had a grinding noise for quite some time. The Maytag I had was nearly 40 years old. Again thanks
I got the f7e5 code which led me to your channel and you make this look easy. It suddenly only grinds during the priming mode of the wash cycles and then abruptly cuts off completely. It also threw out f7e0, f7e3, f7e9, AND f5e3. I reset the machine and check the circuit board and saw the blinking LED and the only code now is the f7e5.
Thanks for a great video! No other video I found had this problem and detailed and your video description gave me exactly what I needed. Thank you!❤
I just checked this video. (By the way great video) I have a Roper with the same actuator and pulley system like in the video. The washer will fill, will agitate for a while but it will not drain. I have to hit the start button to force it to drain. After that the washer will stop the cycle. It will not do the 1st spin cycle and the final spin cycle. When I put the washer on diagnostic mode to drain, I can hear the water draining but no spinning is happening. Something is slipping that does not make it spin. I can see the attempt to spin but it is slipping. The agitator inside the tub I checked the teeth it is fine. I purchased a new actuator via amazon, thinking that might be the issue. Same one on the video you are mentioning. I replaced it and I am having the same exact issue. The belt pulley is fine, not broken. The motor is fine since the washer is agitating. The plastic component with the three parts I checked it, it is not broken, and the wheel is fine. So, what can be the issue? I need your help on this because, I am not going to purchase a washer. I know it is a simple fix. But I can't put my finger on it.
Thanks for the vid, very helpful, Im changing the Actuator tomorrow, after seeing your vid i order the clutch kit...Thanks !!
Great video. My Bravos washer MVWX655DW1 was experiencing several issues mainly the drum moving with the wash plate instead of the wash plate moving by itself. This situation lead me to believe the actuator wasn’t shifting. Other water level issues ensued but after watching this video I learned the actuator does way more than shift the drum/plate. So, I purchased the actuator, W10913953,($60 local, could not wait for Amazon bc laundry stacking up) which is only 2 screws to repair. When I dropped the actuator out a small 1/8” plastic pin fell out of the shifter body. This is not the main pin, it was tiny and part of the internal shifter cam. After replacing it I ran a calibration (not diagnosis) scan and all is well now. Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge on these newer style washers. I still prefer metal mechanical units over these newer computer driven plastic money pits. Good luck!
Glad to help.
How do you do a recalibration?
Just changed everything you talked about. Went smoothly except I’m still struggling to get the belt back on.
If there’s a trick, add it here for the next guy. I’m sure I’ll have it figured out myself.
However, where you said the clips might be hard to squeeze to get them off, you don’t have to squeeze anything, it just twists off easily!
Best info on my washer in a long time ! Thank you . Most of these DIY POST are all trying to sell parts by posting repair info that includes their parts ! You are posting info that is real ! Lol Been working on my Whirlpool Almost 2 weeks so far . Just did what you posted and we will see if that corrects my short start spin and stops ? Will be back later and let you know. Thanks
Best video for these machines I have seen. Well done and thank you. You earned a new subscriber!
Thanks. Be sure to check out one of my recent videos. I did a step-by-step replacing of the actuator and Splutch.
Hi, I'm from Mumbai in India using the Whirlpool 651s fully automatic Top Load molded plastic version made for our Asian Market. The Machine suddenly had stopped spinning one day I tried to change the Capacitor & nothing changed.
So I called the Technician to check out diagnosed the fault to be in the gearbox.
Even advised to buy a new Machine as the new Gearbox would be of same cost.
After he left saw I your video understood the root cause. I rocked the Machine few times & the gear got released & spinning has resumed.
We're using borewell water for the house salts have deposited inside the actuator my guess would be better to remove this & clean up thoroughly to avoid a problem in future. Thank you for the video it has a good length easy explanation.
I welcome your thoughts about how to get the actuator out for removal of salts
Just replaced one on our roper. Worked fine after doing a couple of resets and such. Then now it’s back to not agitating.
The best part of the video was seeing your adorable kitten. Hehe On a serious note I have this washer and I am praying it is not the bearings that have gone out.
I will check this problem though.
Yeah my kitten has grown up into a cat now. She's still cute though.
When bearings are going out in these type of machines they get really loud in spin cycle.
Yea that’s what mine is doing. I was messing around with it last night. Know not a thing but did some research the proper term are the drum bearings. I was thinking it was the actual “transmission” that drives the pulley that has the problem but it’s not I do need a new belt though mines all gummy and you never mentioned what a pain the pulley wheel was to get off. ;) lol
Thanks for this video, now we are deciding to replace the parts or get a new washer
Hello. Thank you for making this video. It is very helpful. We are attempting to repair a Maytag Model No. MVWC360AW0. Back in March, the washer wouldn’t drain and the sensing light was flashing. We first replaced the shift actuator. Then, having not resolved the issue, replaced the drain pump. Noteworthy, we have never been able to get the control panel to enter diagnostic mode. A friend installed the parts and I believe he recalibrated the machine afterwards but can’t be certain. Once repaired, the machine was up and running until about a week ago. Now the symptoms are that the agitator and spin basket are locked up. It doesn’t budge. We disassembled the inside…removed the wash plate and doin basket. There is nothing. On the underside, after removing the protector, we tried to move the cam assembly by moving the drive belt. It does not move freely. A visual inspection shows no oil or evidence of an issue with the gearcase. However, after removing the nut and the cam, there is dirt and oil around the inner lumen of the gears near the shaft. How may we determine if the gearcase is bad? What could seize the agitator/spin shaft?
Oh that is a uncommon problem. I haven’t countered it but it’s been a very long time and I can’t remember exactly what it was. I feel like maybe it’s a bad transmission. The transmissions in those washers are not really made to be worked on. If you look through my videos I disassemble that transmission and give my opinion of how it works.
This video helps. Good luck.
ruclips.net/video/2ImQbNrdblY/видео.html
Boom. Great VID, Friend! I appreciate your effort.
Thank you so much....
I actually just needed to replace the belt.
It was shredded. I could not understand what that burning smell was. 🥺
Because of your video, I was able to understand the breakdown of my machine and locate my issue. 👌
Glad you got it going. That is a very rare problem
Thank you for explaining the potential cause. After replacing my actuator, my washer worked great for 1 day. At least we got caught up in our laundry. But the new actuator broke in the same location. Small plastic piece that rotates the arm. After removing the splutch, I found dirty grease but I also found worn splines. I hope a new splutch kit and actuator will solve this.
I bet it will.
Thank you for your video. I replace the actuator and the spluch and still have terrible grinding noise during agitation. What could it be?
Mine does the same thing after the repair.
Very good video, mine was grinding. was going to check the actuator when I took the belt off the motor pulley came off too. so that was the problem and it cast only $20 bucks to fix it.
Interesting. Are you saying the pulley just came off when you went to take the belt off. So it was missing the nut that holds it on. That nut I have had come loose and cause havoc before but I’ve never had them for all the way off. I do recommend putting a tiny bit of thread lock on those nuts so they don’t come back loose. If you look close, you’ll see the factory put some on as well.
@@WasherDryerMoney the motor pulley just snaps in. no nut The teeth where striped.
Yup you nailed it my man! After my Kenmore machine failed in "stuck in stupid" mode - meaning start a cycle and the thing senses 2 times then the lid latches and the lid lock light blinks . . . and blinks . . . So I ran the diagnostics and got codes for sure . . . which told me that the thing failed to wash and rinse - duh. So I opted to replace the actuator for $55, no big deal, right? Except that did nothing to clear the problem - same thing - locked lid with blinking light which simply means that "something" went wrong to start the cycle. SOOOO . . .I came upon your collection of clips here on good old RUclips and watched several in order to get a good idea of what was going on during these assorted cycles. I popped all the hoses back off and flipped the machine back over and dug back in and this time I pulled the belt and drive wheel off the transmission and actioned the arm and all that stuff inside the shifter and gears (aka the "splutch" in the insiders circle - splined clutch perhaps?). Everything moved smoother than a babies butt so I put it all back together. and tried again with fingers crossed and some prayer . . .and . . .wait for it . . .BINGO! We are back in business mister! OOOO-RAH in USMC vernacular. It is so very satisfying when one can make a simple machine (???) do what it supposed to do. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and put them up for others to see!!!!😃😁
Awesome video. I have a maytag bravos MVWX655DW1. It started making that plastic grinding noise so I replaced that plastic hub under the wash plate but to no avail. It will go through the cycle with grinding noise and when it come to the final rinse and spin it will not spin cycle completely to remove water from clothes it does not finish the cycle and the tub will shake really bad also. Hopefully my description can lead to any type of helpful conclusion. Thank you
Thank you so much this really helped me man just saved the day. Luckily mine was just something caught in the like water pump but I also used it as a chance to clean that spot and glad I did it was quite dirty
Very cool
great video and good understanding of how this machine works. i get alot of these hope you have other videos on other repairs on these and i usually just walk on them. But i would like to know more about them thnaks again for the video.
I'm going to dig in my washer, and I will let you know the outcome, thanks again. 👍👍👍
Nice info , appreciate it mine drains and gets stuck on final spin, a year old , gonna try this tonight!!!
Wow great vid, can't believe Maytag used plastic gears for a drive in a washer unbelievable
GM. I have a Frigidaire Max Fill Top washer that Makes a really bad gridding noise while it initiates the pre wash cycle (weighing clothes), While it moves (agitates) from left to right its ok but as soon as it tries to turn the opposite it grinds and gets stuck. I have to do one of the scans for 3 minutes or more before it stops gridding and functions correctly. it will wash all loads with no problem until the following week and it will start again. Thank you. Blessed Holidays
Great explanation of the transmission mechanism and switch - Thanks.
Sub’d!! Awesome video/explanation! I have this machine and it just stopped agitating in the middle of a cycle and I like to never have gotten the dang lid open. Was stuck closed. Tons of videos suggest it is the drive hub, but after disassembling it and looking at it, it does have some worn splines, but it seems to fit snuggly. After reassembling, the machine, it did fine and made it all the way through a load with no problem. I figure if it were the drive hub, I would have heard some type of grinding, which I did not. After watching more videos, I started to think the actuator might be bad. It was suggested by another technician on RUclips to clean the spludge, which I will do today. I also found out how to put it in test mod and it passed all tests involving agitation, with flying colors. I just with I could be more sure it is the actuator and not something else, so that I’m not just throwing money at it? Thanks in advance for your time, I greatly appreciate it!!! And again, awesome video!! Hard to find such great, in-depth information, from knowledgeable individuals! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for posting this. It was a help in replacing the clutch and actuator on my whirlpool washer. Still have one problem: there is still a short, loud grinding noise when the machine gets to the very end of the final spin cycle, just before switching to "done"; Like maybe the clutch is not fully disengaging at that point. Any suggestions?
Thank you for sharing I hope that's what's wrong with my. hot point washer it sounds like it's sawing wood when it's on the wash cycle only thank you onced again for sharing
Thanks for the info, quite useful for the service.
You have the best videos litterally
Thanks
Very informative video thanks for doing this! I have several things to check now! Capacitor actuator & the innards above the pulley 💪🙏🏽👌 it fills & drains… jus won’t wash or spin!?
I’d love your help to figure out what’s going on with my washing machine. Can I send you a brief video to see what it is doing?
Fantastic video. Incredibly helpful, thank you.
Of course I subscribed. Really clear narrative on how to fix this machine! Exactly the info I need to repair our washer.
Thank you for your
Video's ,how do you change the rubber washer at the end of the tr
ansmission shaft
If you mean the rubber piece inside of the end of the transmission, I’m not sure that is serviceable. The bigger issue might be finding a replacement.
I have removed the washer that holds back the gear case oil from leaking on the belt. The issue was it was a weird shaped rubber piece that I could never find a new one.
That is the big downfall of that machine. The transmission is just not made to be serviced, and even if you do go to the trouble of removing a bad piece out of the transmission there are not replacement pieces that I could fine.
They want you to replace the entire transmission which is pricey.
Thank you for your reply,I'm actually talking about a rubber piece up where the shaft comes out by the drive block
I like the way you're step by step on you're video's, the machine would not agitate,so not noting,I went to check the dogs ,there are none,started to remove agitator the bolt would not come out ,so I resorted to the 4/4 and jack Methodist ,it worked but pulled the shaft out of the trans. The spanner nut I had to cut off,and stuff got into the trans. So I took it all the way down,cleaned trans. Installed grease and putting back together ,I'll let you know what happens.
best explain it is working real good thank you
Finally a video that addresses this issue. Thanks!
Your video shows what the actuator looks like, how do I get to it in my Maytag Centennial washing machine.
Wait a minute..........
I just found another video of yours where you explain this. Tuffduty is right.....You are the Man. Thanks for your help.
Glad to help.
Thanks super helpful! I replaced the actuator on my machine without doing the other steps, to check that first, but now, as soon as i plug it in, it starts clicking. Worried i broke something 😕
Thank you! You saved me a lot of money!
Really helpful video. Did not know this was how they worked. Thanks for diving in that far and sharing.
Glad to help