The shift actuator has a line powered motor , But it actually has two other functions , one you already reflected is it uses an optical sensor circuit to read the drum rotation speed it sends a pulsed low voltage signal to the washer . the next function it has is it has a micro switch that confirm's it has shifted to the correct position, the motor driven arm has a internal mechanism that triggers a normally open switch to close when it has reached the correct position (open for spin , closed agitate on the red shiftier) . if the washer computer runs the shift actuator motor and does not detect this switch opening and closing it will set a faulty actuator code ,. on the red actuator this switch is between pins 5 (low voltage circuit ground) and pin 7 (shifter position input) One thing to be on the look out for is an slowly lealking tub seal above the transmission will allow water drip into the transmission case , the transmission spinning will throw the drops of water into the workings of the shift actuator causing a hair pulling intermitent fault as it will often work fine when for the first load until it gets a chanch to get wet,, you have to address the drum seal leak or a new shift actuator will just get damaged by the water as well ..
Great information right here! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Usually when I find water that has dripped on the actuator it’s rusty and the bearings have also failed. I’m really disappointed in the lack of quality in these modern washers. You seem to be very knowledgeable about these devices, I hope you will continue to share your expertise with us. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for your comment and feedback! I'm thrilled to hear that you found the video helpful and that you were able to make the test cord to test the shift actuator. Your kind words mean a lot to me, and I appreciate your support. If you have any more questions or need assistance with anything else, feel free to ask. Keep up the great work and happy repairing!
This is a great video. Just a little added info for folks who may be interested... Your washer should have a tech manual. It is usually attached to the inside of the front panel just underneath the top panel of the machine. There should be a "pin out" diagram in the manual. It will tell you which wires feed which component and usually what color they should be... Wire colors may be different than what is listed... But if you trace the wires point to point you can figure it out.
@@HarperandKnowles Indeed... I found mine halfway through fixing this washer and it helped greatly... it's actually a pretty comprehensive service manual. It's one thing I miss on modern electronics.... a lot of equipment shipped with service info inside.
@@camelid My 1 year old Centennial has the black actuator and I have been through 3 so far the first one lasted my about 2 years and the second one 2 weeks! Luckily I figured there was a manufacturer's flaw so I bought a spare from Kentucky and just slapped it in. I think what harms them is washing a very light load like a few little pillows somehow shocks the unit. There is a micro-processor circuit board located next to the optical sensors that looks really awfully complicated for a washing machine! OVERKILL! I all snaps apart and I am checking it out I will edit any findings here asap Thanks for the great informative video Harper and Knowles!
So my adventure started with this Amana top load washer - think it's the NFW4516 one. Anyway it would agitate, and make buzzy grindy noises. Figured was something strange in the mechanical part going on... found lots of mostly non-useful videos on the YT. So I tried to parts-cannon it, with a new splutch/pulley belt kit, and a replacement actuator (red type). Behavior changed - it would fill, then try to spin the tub twice and stop. I couldn't get the display into diagnostic mode to try any testing... so I was spinning the selection dial CCW like everyone was saying and it wouldn't respond, on rebooting it would turn on the fill light. I ordered a used/good replacement board... and got the same thing, after I'd changed out the filter caps on the original board. So now I have a spare, good, original board, and a new(used) control board installed. I kept researching and eventually stumbled across the suggestion to hold the start button for several seconds to clear any pending modes, which finally got me into the diagnostic mode. Everything was pointing to the actuator, even after I cleared the code I was getting a complaint from the controller CPU that it couldn't tell what mode the actuator was in. I started digging in with the new actuator and it's only reading 1.15K, paperwork says it should be 2-3k or so. Now I've watched this video, and based on what I'm seeing, on the red actuator the motor itself must detect the load increasing at the ends of its travel range and reverse the power internally to change the direction of rotation; the black actuator looks like it works in a different way. Since the red actuator seems to be load dependant, then the splutch mechanism has to be considerably lower load for the motor to behave correctly since it's loading dependent. I think the new actuator I got may have a defect, it didn't seem to want to change direction at all. I'm going to swap motors and see what happens, after I test the actuator out of the unit following the setup in this video. Thanks for the external testing idea, btw.
LOL, you’ve got a lot more patience than I! I would have parted it out and thrown the empty hull on the scrap metal pile. I would say that you’ll be an expert on the workings of that machine before you are finished. Thanks for watching and I hope my video was a little help.
@@HarperandKnowles Actually your video was very helpful in solving the issue... so last night checked the actuator off the washer and it cycled ok, so I installed the actuator with power leads and cycled it installed on the washer, and found the issue. It was switching from spin to agitate... but as soon as it tried to go the other direction it went halfway, stalled and returned. I tried moving the shift rod manually and it didn't feel that difficult but it was enough to make the actuator stop. So I pulled the new pulley and basket kit off and played with it... when I compared it to the original set it was quite a bit more difficult overall to move, even after I used some silicone grease on the contact points. So I cleaned and lubed the original transmission set and reinstalled everything... and now I have a working machine. I guess it was originally a bad actuator, and two techs later when they finally gave up on it it was mostly still working, but with too stiff of a transmission to work with the actuator installed. Yay, working washer. I'm glad I didn't buy the washer, I'm 80 bux into parts now - but I do have a couple extra parts now, anyway.
Thanks for the vid. This is my next thing to check. I'll probably pass up all that extra work you did though and just put a couple jumpers on there. All that in line switch and shrink-butting wires together just to test something is a bit overkill for me. Great video though and no doubt the extra stuff teaches others a few more more things they might not know.
Yeah, if you are only going to have to test the part once it is overkill. A tech that does this often might like to have them in the toolbox though. Wouldn't you agree? Good luck with the repair my friend, and thanks for watching!
Well, thanks for watching my video, Donny! To check the motor windings you need to find the wires coming out of the motor and trace them to the terminal block. These’s usually three. One start winding and one run winding and a return. Use a multimeter set to read ohms, check the continuity of these wires against themselves. If one fails you have a broken winding. Check each one against the metal frame of the motor. If you have continuity there you have a shorted winding that should trip your home breaker. To check a control board watch this excellent video from my fellow RUclipsr @ Bens Appliances and Junk ruclips.net/video/IIfsAXV4Vsc/видео.html.
Chip I have a comment for you in regards to your shift actuator tutorial. Although you presented an excellent video on testing a shift actuator you left out one important detail and that would be telling the viewer that the wire connectors are to your right thier left. I only point this out because I know that most of your do-it-yourselfers are not all that mechanically inclined and can get easily confused. I have been doing this kind of repair and diagnostics for over 20 years and you wouldn't believe the number of times that I had to go to a customers home to put back together and or repair something that they played with.
You raise a valid point I'll keep that in mind in the future. I too, have had to reassemble machines others have worked on before me or brought to my shop in pieces. I now have a $35.00 reassembly fee that discourages that! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. I have a WTW4950XW3 washer that either loses a capacitor or one of these shift actuators. This will be handy to see which one before I order both. An annual expense on this washer.
Thank you, this is a super helpful video! You have a new subscriber. May I ask what would cause the little plastic peg on the actuator arm that serves as the cam follower to snap off? Visually, the splutch looks fine (no missing teeth on the gears or debris or anything) however, I did notice that is is hard to release the brake by hand when I manually spin the drum in one direction but easy to release when spinning the opposite direction. (This may be the way the splutch is designed to work for all I know.) I saw that you recommend spraying dry lube on the splutch so I will do that. And I saw someone else comment on checking the drum seal to make sure it is not leaking on the transmission and getting the brake shift actuator wet. I just replaced my brake shift actuator two weeks ago for this issue and have it again tonight. This washer is barely three years old. It would be good to have an idea of the root cause of this issue. Maytag model# MVWP576KW0
Perhaps the plastic peg breaking off was a defect in the manufacture process. I haven’t seen this happen before. As far as it being hard to spin by hand, I don’t have a clue. I’d have to look into that further, it doesn’t seem right. I have only ever seen a shift actuator referred to as the brake actuator when ordering parts for the commercial washers. Perhaps there is an actual brake mechanism that is internal to the commercial transmission but absent on the machines made for the home consumer market. As far as I can tell there is no brake on these machines. That water leaking issue may be real bad news if it has compromised your bearings. Does it roar during a spin cycle? Thanks for watching and subscribing too!
Thank you! This is the commercial washer from Maytag. In my humble opinion, the actuator arm is very poorly/cheaply made, at least on this model. From what I see on various online DIY repair forums, its a common problem with this model. The motor on the shift actuator operates correctly, but when the peg breaks off we're down for the count. I am going to try to fix the arm by drilling out where the peg was on the arm, and replacing it with a small metal, flush mount core pin and see what that does. BTW, I like this channel.
Great video! Have you ever seen a case where a shift actuator seems to be working backwards? In test mode the unit agitates when it should spin and the drum spins when it’s supposed to agitate?
I've never seen that. To agitate the motor has to rotate in both directions. Only one direction if spinning. Now if the tub is moving in both directions then the splutch is jammed up and needs attention. You've got a gremlin in yer washer, my friend!
@@metalshredder4life817 if he changed out the controller board it might have the sense line logic reversed in the algorithm possibly. I think it's low in spin and high in agitate on mine.
@@HarperandKnowles I thought the motor ran in one direction for spin then opposite direction for agitate. I was thinking the oscillating gear made it agitate. Btw, I just came across your videos this morning and subscribed.I looked again I had the older direct drives in mind. I don’t have a lot of experience either ones with these actuators and splutches.
@@rickeykeeton4770 Yeah, Ricky you are absolutely right. But in this particular case we are discussing these newer washers with shift actuators. Those with the old transmissions worked like that, but these reverse the motor direction to agitate. I’m glad you found us and let me welcome you to the channel. Thanks for taking the time to watch and for the extra effort of leaving a comment too!
She's running! And I have a piece of test equipment and knowledge for the next time. Thanks for making me the household hero for a day!! With this test device I found that the original shift actuator that I changed out 2 years ago was fine. It must have been the capacitor the whole time.
Good Morning Harper I came up on your channel it’s very interested information on washers I got a question I have a whirlpool washer my problem is the washer on automatic cycle it wash rinse but on second rinse it just fills won’t drain and spin will this be a faulty switch actuator being faulty it’s work ok on the manual cycle can you advise TY.
Without being able to diagnose your machine directly I can only guess at the problem. Depending on your model it could be the lid lock if it just stops on rinse and doesn’t spin. Try putting your machine in the service diagnostic mode by following the instructions in the service manual found in the front left inside corner of the machine cabinet. Test your lid lock, drain pump and spin and agitate modes. Try watching this video, it may have your solution: The MOST COMMON reasons YOUR WASHER is on the FRITZ | Get VALUE HERE! ruclips.net/video/0ArudhUKrNQ/видео.html
@@HarperandKnowles Hi thanks you for quick response I pulled my service manual and put my machine into the service diagnostic mode as shown to test the tachometer but i notice when it turn to get my wash and done light on when i push the start button the wash light stays on with done light on your video i notice when you push start ONLY the DONE light remind on when i open the lid and turn the drum no lights were moving so am guess i have a faulty tachometer /actuator switch I don't think it's the lid lock switch because when i open the lid the it stops operating
If it failed the diagnostic test then you’re probably right. When you pull it off be sure there’s no trash up inside the gear case. Sometimes mice will drag stuff in there and it will prevent the actuator from working correctly.
Great video! Question for the agitation cycle in basic Whirlpool type washer, does the motor actually spin back and forth over and over to make the agitation?
No, actually the back and forth motion of the agitator is transferred by a rack and pinion gear arrangement connected to an eccentric inside the transmission. The machine will agitate if the motor turns in one direction and will drain and spin when it turns in the opposite direction. Check out this video if you'd like to see the inner workings of the direct-drive transmission, ruclips.net/video/hOFnb2Zh160/видео.html . The new machine's motors do spin back and forth. Thanks for watching my video! I think I misunderstood this question. To clarify, those whirlpool direct drive machines built before 2009 use the direct-drive transmission. The newer machines with the electronic control boards do use motors that cycle back and forth during the agitate cycle.
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks for the quick reply and followup! I have the after 2009 model and had to replace the gear box and actuator. Which made me wonder how to test the actuator, and what made the washer agitate. You answered both questions perfectly. Great channel, much appreciated.
Which design of transmission do you think is better? I noticed with the new style, you can't repair it and have to replace the entire part. I tried to crack it open just to see how it worked, but it was built like a tank.
Oh, by far the old direct drive unit built before 2009. They were built to last for 30 years and often went longer. Somewhere in Whirlpool's history someone decided to make throw away machines that have a limited lifetime. I suppose they sell more machines that way. That gearbox wasn't designed to repair, only replace. Unfortunately the cost of the part and labor isn't usually economical and it's probably better to replace a machine that has enough wear on it to compromise the gearbox.
That is very useful information. Does the optical sensor use ALL the other wires? And WHY does one kind of switch use seven wires and one use six wires? I would think the optical sensor would use the same number of wires in either switch.
This is a great question and one that I have wondered about myself. One thing I have noticed is that the more complex the machine is then the shift actuator is usually the brown variety with the extra wire. I have traced the wires back to the control board and found that in both cases the wires split into two different interfaces. Once they connect to the board I lose them among the many traces on the circuit board. Within the actuator’s themselves is another circuit board with a chip soldered into it. There is a lot of difference between the two and I’m not sure if the extra wire may be another power source for something this additional circuit board needs. Bottom line, I don’t know the answer but I’m as curious about it as you are. If you discover the answer I’d appreciate you sharing the info with me. Thanks so much for your comments and it’s great having you as a new subscriber!
@@HarperandKnowles that kinda leads me tp think you could use a control board from any black switch machine on another black switch machine without worrying about part numbers. Same thing for the red switched machines.
I do it all the time. The only difference you'll find is the number of interface connectors and that's because some models have more features than others.
@@HarperandKnowles am I right about the black switches and the black machine control boards and the red switches and the red machine control boards or do some of them mix and match?
Great video!!!! Quick question: can an actuator malfunction when installed, yet test perfectly fine when not installed? The factor being the amount of pressure on the arm. Thanks so much in advance for your time!!
Yes, absolutely. It's pretty common for the splutch to go bad. The problem isn't usually with the actuator but with the splutch mechanism. If the splutch jams when shifting, the actuator can't force it into position. Sometimes you can fix this by squirting some silicone lube inside the splutch and working the arm back and forth to insure it moves freely. If it doesn't, it will have to be replaced.
@@HarperandKnowles Holy crap that was a fast response!! I really appreciate it!! Yeah, my Maytag/Bravos has been kicking my butt for most of the day today. Tons of videos suggest it is the drive hub, but after disassembling it and looking at it, it does have some worn splines, but it seems to fit snuggly. After reassembling, the machine did fine. Originally, it stopped agitating in the middle of a cycle. I figure if it were the drive hub, I would have heard some type of grinding, which I did not. After watching more videos, I started to think the actuator might be bad. AND NOW, I guess it could be the splutch! 🤦(had to look that one up btw. Never heard of a splutch! lol) Now where to go?! If I weren’t already bald, I would be pulling my hair out!!!!
Ha, I was laying in bed reading on my iPad and your comment notification came up. That is a very problematic machine. I don’t have much luck repairing them. If I get one from the scrappers I almost always part it out because when I fix one to sell it usually comes back to me. If it’s more than five years old you’ve got the best use out of it.
@@HarperandKnowles And that would be my luck!! 🙄🤣 Yeah, if I can figure out definitively what’s wrong with it now, so I can feel good about selling it, I might just be looking for a different set. This is the newest set I’ve ever owned (bought them used). Excluding all of the new stuff, are there any brands/sets out there that you have had really good luck with? Thanks again for all the information, I really do appreciate it!! And no need to respond tonight. 👍🏻
Speed Queen is probably the best brand out there. Maytag commercial is also pretty good. Barring that, if you can find a nice looking Whirlpool built before 2009 and rebuild it, it may last another 15 years. Good luck with your repair.
I’m having an issue with my whirlpool not agitating most of the time I tested and replaced shifter did tachometer test was good the shifter will just cycle back and fourth after the water is done filling if I give the tub a small spin by hand and restart it will agitate and finish the cycle as normal could it the spultch assembly?
It could be that your splutch is jamming. I’d take it apart and see if that inner part that the shifter hooks into moves freely when it’s in its place. Sometimes all it needs is a little silicon lubricant to free it up. Sometimes it’s got to be replaced. Good luck with the repair. Thanks for watching.
Unfortunately, you can't do that. The logic circuit has to be able to read what the actuator is sending it in order to advance its cycles. There's a lot going on in the electronics that aren't obvious to the operator. Thanks for watching.
I have a Kenmore 90 Series washer. After completing one load of wash I started a second. The tub filled with water, agaited then stopped. No matter what setting I put it in nothing happens. No humming, nothing. Another Kenmore 90 series washer was given to me. It agitated but no spin. After checking it out it was only a loose wire. Plugged it in & it went through the cycles. Put a load of cloths in & the only cycle that will now work is the spin. Any help on either one of these would be appreciated. I did notice same series but different timer control model.
Thank you for replying. I checked the lid switch it was good, I even jumped it just to make sure, ( that what I was hoping for) The second on does not fill up. It now only works on the spin cycle. All I did was to connect the loose wire that went to the spin cycle, so I know I did not adjust or short anything out.@@HarperandKnowles
My shift actuator keeps coming off the clutch? I am able to pull it apart and it works fine for a few weeks then falls off again. Do you think this might mean I have a bad clutch?
Thank you so much! I'm glad you found the tutorial useful. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask. Thanks for watching!
Can’t you check for continuity across the motor leads as a 1st test. If it open the motor is bad. I have a retractor on a Frigidaire I’m needing to test. The clutch arm that the retractor activates is very stiff , do you think the clutch is the issue? I just hear a buzzing sound in spin mode. Thanks!
Yeah, you should be able to test the motor that way. Be sure your multimeter isn’t in audible mode. Sometimes that shows open when testing a coiled wire. And the clutch could be the issue if it’s more than the motor can handle. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles thanks, have you worked on this washer at all, wondering if you know this clutch design and best way to confirm it’s not a bad clutch that like you say is too stiff for the motor to handle. It does move and doesn’t have to move too far.
I have worked on these. I don't remember that clutch assembly to be a problematic part. The retractors are pretty robust too. They call that a clutch assembly but it's basically the whole gearbox, shaft , and clutch made into one part. It's real expensive too if I recall. If I had to guess I'd bet that a seal has broken and ruined the inner parts. Did you see any signs of water leakage under the machine?
Applied 120Vac on the actuator and it slowly closes but doesnt stay closed. Is that normal? It drops out a few seconds after it is fully close and starts the cycle again. The N.C. contact opens when it is fully closed. Please advice
The actuator will continue to cycle when testing it with a cord. It would have to have input from the control board to stop it at the end of each shifting cycle so what you are seeing is normal. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much. At least I know how it's going. I change three W10913953 Washer Actuator in the past 4 months. I don't know why my actuator didn't work easily. The arm always stayed in the middle and I can't move it back where it comes.
It sounds to me like your splutch may be messed up. When you have your actuator off, be sure the center part of the splutch (where the actuator arm connects) moves easily back and forth. Sometimes just a spray of WD40 will free it up. Sometimes it will need to be replaced. Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching!
I'm curious, does your washer have the main control knob in the center of the console and perhaps a wash plate or an agitator that attaches to a short shaft gearbox (the agitator bolt is in the bottom of the agitator)? Model Number?
my tech booklet tells me i need ohms range 2k-3.5k between pin 1&2 on the shifter pins ( pins labeled on the red/brownish plastic) I got a short ? beeeeep w ohm multimeter test. Am I possibly onto something?
Well the beep is telling you there is continuity. And if your book tells you there should be a reading between those two pins then there is supposed to be a connection there so I don't think you have a short. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles thanks for quick reply. That makes sense I'm curious why i didn't get a reading in Ohms though. I will recheck my test procedure/settings.
@@HarperandKnowles thanks I figured out how to read the error codes I have 2, F5 and F8 seems the door lid is not sensing it being locked. Might be the pice that fits into the lock or might be the lock.
My washer has been giving me fits. I went through the diagnostics and it led to a bad control board. I replaced the control board and still have the same issue. I have determined that the spin and agitate modes are backwards. Ex. when the washer goes into spin mode - the shift actuator releases the clutch so the basket doesn't spin. and when the machine commands agitate mode - the actuator engages the clutch which causes the agitator and basket to both move during agitation mode. So everything electrically checks out. I'm wondering, have you ever experienced a shift actuator that has become faulty actually show the actuator switch closed when its suppose to be open, and open when its suppose to be closed? So when the machine is in spin mode, my actuator arm is pulled in close to the body of the actuator and it shows the switch as open. However, the arm needs to be 90 degrees from the body to put the clutch in physical spin mode. Any ideas?
I bet your splutch is defective and not shifting smoothly. The inner ring should move from agitate to spin without very much resistance. If this is binding then you’ll get the symptoms you are describing. Thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.
@@HarperandKnowles The shift arm moves freely. It is a new splutch also. That was the first thing I tried. The arm is in the wrong position when the machine thinks it’s in spin mode.
Okay, this is a unique problem. I'm thinking that maybe that shift actuator has gotten misaligned some kind of way. Inside, there is a plastic plate attached to the drive motor that has a grooved track that a pin attached to the shift arm follows. Maybe that pin is in the wrong place on that track. I've never seen this happen but that could be the problem. You may have to change that actuator to fix it. Let me know if that works.
my Amama washer and Dryer were in water enough to completely cover the motor in my Dryer. I replaced the motor in the dryer and it working fine. will I have to replace the motor in the washer when I start it it clicks alittle water comes in and it stops
You should diagnose it to see exactly what part is failing. Here is a video that will help you do that. Complete Guide to Fixing Your Amana Washing Machine: Works for All Whirlpool Corp. Brands ruclips.net/video/M6EQUP4iTHM/видео.html. Thanks for watching!
My shift actuator appears to be constantly shifting back and forth without stopping... anyone ever seen this before? right now it's actually shifting back and forth even though the wash is over. Could this be because it got wet from a leak? Obviously I will need a new shift actuator just curious about the unusual behavior.
I have never seen this. If it is in constant motion then power is being sent to it that shouldn’t be. I’m thinking you may have a control board issue instead. Putting a new actuator in there will probably not solve the problem. Let us know what you find and thanks for watching!
i think a leaking tub seal had shorted it out and caused it to malfunction. I let it dry out, opened it and cleaned up the board with alcohol and replaced the tub seal. I put it back on to make sure the tub wasn't leaking before installing a new actuator and it seemed to work no problem. I still replaced it since I already bought the new one, but I kept it in a stack of parts just in case. washer running mostly fine now, still have to take apart the "non-serviceable" transmission to change out bearings cause it's loud as all get out, but otherwise working fine now! @@HarperandKnowles 🤷👍
You may have to replace the splutch. Sometimes a squirt of lubricant on it will free it up enough to complete the movement of the shift cycle. Good luck with your repair. Thanks for the comment!
Your comment is on a video about testing shift actuators. Without knowing what model machine you have I couldn’t make a guess at the problem. Thanks for watching!
Well, you've done something wrong because, as can be seen in the video, I pointed out the correct pins, built the test devices, and tested them on camera. The video doesn't lie. I suspect you had the unit facing away from you when you did that because if you had it correct, those pins don't even connect to the tachometer. Thanks for watching. Sorry, you friztzed your shifter.
@@HarperandKnowles I really appreciate this video on testing shifters. That being said, I usually splice wires in slightly different places in case the couplers get damaged somehow to avoid the spliced from shorting together. Someone not accustomed to splicing and or heat shrink might apply too much heat and cause the spliced to short. Btw, can you ohm the shifters out to see if they are bad? Seems like I have tried to before but can’t remember how the testing turned out.
The shift actuator has a line powered motor , But it actually has two other functions , one you already reflected is it uses an optical sensor circuit to read the drum rotation speed it sends a pulsed low voltage signal to the washer . the next function it has is it has a micro switch that confirm's it has shifted to the correct position, the motor driven arm has a internal mechanism that triggers a normally open switch to close when it has reached the correct position (open for spin , closed agitate on the red shiftier) . if the washer computer runs the shift actuator motor and does not detect this switch opening and closing it will set a faulty actuator code ,. on the red actuator this switch is between pins 5 (low voltage circuit ground) and pin 7 (shifter position input) One thing to be on the look out for is an slowly lealking tub seal above the transmission will allow water drip into the transmission case , the transmission spinning will throw the drops of water into the workings of the shift actuator causing a hair pulling intermitent fault as it will often work fine when for the first load until it gets a chanch to get wet,, you have to address the drum seal leak or a new shift actuator will just get damaged by the water as well ..
Great information right here! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Usually when I find water that has dripped on the actuator it’s rusty and the bearings have also failed. I’m really disappointed in the lack of quality in these modern washers. You seem to be very knowledgeable about these devices, I hope you will continue to share your expertise with us. Thanks for watching!
I made mine's today, thanks!!! You really have the best videos, love it!!!
Thank you so much for your comment and feedback! I'm thrilled to hear that you found the video helpful and that you were able to make the test cord to test the shift actuator. Your kind words mean a lot to me, and I appreciate your support. If you have any more questions or need assistance with anything else, feel free to ask. Keep up the great work and happy repairing!
This is a great video. Just a little added info for folks who may be interested... Your washer should have a tech manual. It is usually attached to the inside of the front panel just underneath the top panel of the machine. There should be a "pin out" diagram in the manual. It will tell you which wires feed which component and usually what color they should be... Wire colors may be different than what is listed... But if you trace the wires point to point you can figure it out.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching too!
@@HarperandKnowles Indeed... I found mine halfway through fixing this washer and it helped greatly... it's actually a pretty comprehensive service manual. It's one thing I miss on modern electronics.... a lot of equipment shipped with service info inside.
@@camelid My 1 year old Centennial has the black actuator and I have been through 3 so far the first one lasted my about 2 years and the second one 2 weeks! Luckily I figured there was a manufacturer's flaw so I bought a spare from Kentucky and just slapped it in. I think what harms them is washing a very light load like a few little pillows somehow shocks the unit. There is a micro-processor circuit board located next to the optical sensors that looks really awfully complicated for a washing machine! OVERKILL! I all snaps apart and I am checking it out I will edit any findings here asap Thanks for the great informative video Harper and Knowles!
My pleasure!
So my adventure started with this Amana top load washer - think it's the NFW4516 one. Anyway it would agitate, and make buzzy grindy noises. Figured was something strange in the mechanical part going on... found lots of mostly non-useful videos on the YT. So I tried to parts-cannon it, with a new splutch/pulley belt kit, and a replacement actuator (red type). Behavior changed - it would fill, then try to spin the tub twice and stop. I couldn't get the display into diagnostic mode to try any testing... so I was spinning the selection dial CCW like everyone was saying and it wouldn't respond, on rebooting it would turn on the fill light. I ordered a used/good replacement board... and got the same thing, after I'd changed out the filter caps on the original board. So now I have a spare, good, original board, and a new(used) control board installed. I kept researching and eventually stumbled across the suggestion to hold the start button for several seconds to clear any pending modes, which finally got me into the diagnostic mode. Everything was pointing to the actuator, even after I cleared the code I was getting a complaint from the controller CPU that it couldn't tell what mode the actuator was in. I started digging in with the new actuator and it's only reading 1.15K, paperwork says it should be 2-3k or so. Now I've watched this video, and based on what I'm seeing, on the red actuator the motor itself must detect the load increasing at the ends of its travel range and reverse the power internally to change the direction of rotation; the black actuator looks like it works in a different way. Since the red actuator seems to be load dependant, then the splutch mechanism has to be considerably lower load for the motor to behave correctly since it's loading dependent. I think the new actuator I got may have a defect, it didn't seem to want to change direction at all. I'm going to swap motors and see what happens, after I test the actuator out of the unit following the setup in this video. Thanks for the external testing idea, btw.
LOL, you’ve got a lot more patience than I! I would have parted it out and thrown the empty hull on the scrap metal pile. I would say that you’ll be an expert on the workings of that machine before you are finished. Thanks for watching and I hope my video was a little help.
@@HarperandKnowles Actually your video was very helpful in solving the issue... so last night checked the actuator off the washer and it cycled ok, so I installed the actuator with power leads and cycled it installed on the washer, and found the issue. It was switching from spin to agitate... but as soon as it tried to go the other direction it went halfway, stalled and returned. I tried moving the shift rod manually and it didn't feel that difficult but it was enough to make the actuator stop. So I pulled the new pulley and basket kit off and played with it... when I compared it to the original set it was quite a bit more difficult overall to move, even after I used some silicone grease on the contact points. So I cleaned and lubed the original transmission set and reinstalled everything... and now I have a working machine. I guess it was originally a bad actuator, and two techs later when they finally gave up on it it was mostly still working, but with too stiff of a transmission to work with the actuator installed. Yay, working washer. I'm glad I didn't buy the washer, I'm 80 bux into parts now - but I do have a couple extra parts now, anyway.
@@camelid congratulations on a successful repair!
Thanks for the vid. This is my next thing to check. I'll probably pass up all that extra work you did though and just put a couple jumpers on there. All that in line switch and shrink-butting wires together just to test something is a bit overkill for me. Great video though and no doubt the extra stuff teaches others a few more more things they might not know.
Yeah, if you are only going to have to test the part once it is overkill. A tech that does this often might like to have them in the toolbox though. Wouldn't you agree? Good luck with the repair my friend, and thanks for watching!
thank you so much i really needed this information now tell me how to check the motor winding and control board
Well, thanks for watching my video, Donny! To check the motor windings you need to find the wires coming out of the motor and trace them to the terminal block. These’s usually three. One start winding and one run winding and a return. Use a multimeter set to read ohms, check the continuity of these wires against themselves. If one fails you have a broken winding. Check each one against the metal frame of the motor. If you have continuity there you have a shorted winding that should trip your home breaker. To check a control board watch this excellent video from my fellow RUclipsr @ Bens Appliances and Junk ruclips.net/video/IIfsAXV4Vsc/видео.html.
Chip I have a comment for you in regards to your shift actuator tutorial. Although you presented an excellent video on testing a shift actuator you left out one important detail and that would be telling the viewer that the wire connectors are to your right thier left. I only point this out because I know that most of your do-it-yourselfers are not all that mechanically inclined and can get easily confused. I have been doing this kind of repair and diagnostics for over 20 years and you wouldn't believe the number of times that I had to go to a customers home to put back together and or repair something that they played with.
You raise a valid point I'll keep that in mind in the future. I too, have had to reassemble machines others have worked on before me or brought to my shop in pieces. I now have a $35.00 reassembly fee that discourages that! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. I have a WTW4950XW3 washer that either loses a capacitor or one of these shift actuators. This will be handy to see which one before I order both. An annual expense on this washer.
Hey, thanks for the comment. Fix or repair annually! They sure don’t make ‘em like the used to.
Thank you, this is a super helpful video! You have a new subscriber.
May I ask what would cause the little plastic peg on the actuator arm that serves as the cam follower to snap off?
Visually, the splutch looks fine (no missing teeth on the gears or debris or anything) however, I did notice that is is hard to release the brake by hand when I manually spin the drum in one direction but easy to release when spinning the opposite direction. (This may be the way the splutch is designed to work for all I know.)
I saw that you recommend spraying dry lube on the splutch so I will do that. And I saw someone else comment on checking the drum seal to make sure it is not leaking on the transmission and getting the brake shift actuator wet.
I just replaced my brake shift actuator two weeks ago for this issue and have it again tonight. This washer is barely three years old.
It would be good to have an idea of the root cause of this issue.
Maytag model# MVWP576KW0
Perhaps the plastic peg breaking off was a defect in the manufacture process. I haven’t seen this happen before. As far as it being hard to spin by hand, I don’t have a clue. I’d have to look into that further, it doesn’t seem right. I have only ever seen a shift actuator referred to as the brake actuator when ordering parts for the commercial washers. Perhaps there is an actual brake mechanism that is internal to the commercial transmission but absent on the machines made for the home consumer market. As far as I can tell there is no brake on these machines. That water leaking issue may be real bad news if it has compromised your bearings. Does it roar during a spin cycle? Thanks for watching and subscribing too!
Thank you!
This is the commercial washer from Maytag. In my humble opinion, the actuator arm is very poorly/cheaply made, at least on this model. From what I see on various online DIY repair forums, its a common problem with this model. The motor on the shift actuator operates correctly, but when the peg breaks off we're down for the count.
I am going to try to fix the arm by drilling out where the peg was on the arm, and replacing it with a small metal, flush mount core pin and see what that does.
BTW, I like this channel.
Thank you! Let us know how your modifications go.
Great video! Have you ever seen a case where a shift actuator seems to be working backwards? In test mode the unit agitates when it should spin and the drum spins when it’s supposed to agitate?
I've never seen that. To agitate the motor has to rotate in both directions. Only one direction if spinning. Now if the tub is moving in both directions then the splutch is jammed up and needs attention. You've got a gremlin in yer washer, my friend!
The actuator isnt the problem in that scenario. It has to do with the basket drive gear under the impeller. Or the splotch on others.
@@metalshredder4life817 if he changed out the controller board it might have the sense line logic reversed in the algorithm possibly. I think it's low in spin and high in agitate on mine.
@@HarperandKnowles I thought the motor ran in one direction for spin then opposite direction for agitate.
I was thinking the oscillating gear made it agitate.
Btw, I just came across your videos this morning and subscribed.I looked again I had the older direct drives in mind.
I don’t have a lot of experience either ones with these actuators and splutches.
@@rickeykeeton4770 Yeah, Ricky you are absolutely right. But in this particular case we are discussing these newer washers with shift actuators. Those with the old transmissions worked like that, but these reverse the motor direction to agitate. I’m glad you found us and let me welcome you to the channel. Thanks for taking the time to watch and for the extra effort of leaving a comment too!
She's running! And I have a piece of test equipment and knowledge for the next time. Thanks for making me the household hero for a day!! With this test device I found that the original shift actuator that I changed out 2 years ago was fine. It must have been the capacitor the whole time.
I’m glad you got it going. Let’s hope it’ll last a bit longer now!
Good Morning Harper I came up on your channel it’s very interested information on washers I got a question I have a whirlpool washer my problem is the washer on automatic cycle it wash rinse but on second rinse it just fills won’t drain and spin will this be a faulty switch actuator being faulty it’s work ok on the manual cycle can you advise TY.
Without being able to diagnose your machine directly I can only guess at the problem. Depending on your model it could be the lid lock if it just stops on rinse and doesn’t spin. Try putting your machine in the service diagnostic mode by following the instructions in the service manual found in the front left inside corner of the machine cabinet. Test your lid lock, drain pump and spin and agitate modes. Try watching this video, it may have your solution: The MOST COMMON reasons YOUR WASHER is on the FRITZ | Get VALUE HERE!
ruclips.net/video/0ArudhUKrNQ/видео.html
@@HarperandKnowles Hi thanks you for quick response I pulled my service manual and put my machine into the service diagnostic mode as shown to test the tachometer but i notice when it turn to get my wash and done light on when i push the start button the wash light stays on with done light on your video i notice when you push start ONLY the DONE light remind on when i open the lid and turn the drum no lights were moving so am guess i have a faulty tachometer /actuator switch I don't think it's the lid lock switch because when i open the lid the it stops operating
If it failed the diagnostic test then you’re probably right. When you pull it off be sure there’s no trash up inside the gear case. Sometimes mice will drag stuff in there and it will prevent the actuator from working correctly.
@@HarperandKnowles I took apart the clutch already and clean and lubricant it and the actuator no foreign Particle found inside.
Good deal!
Great video. Where can I find those test cords? Tried Amazon, but can’t find it.
There is a link in the description. Thanks for watching!
Hello there, I have a Maytag washer and have changed 2 actuators and they don't last more than 2 to 3 weeks. Is there something causing them to break?
Try changing the splutch. If it do don’t move freely and takes extreme force to shift it will cause the actuator to fail. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Question for the agitation cycle in basic Whirlpool type washer, does the motor actually spin back and forth over and over to make the agitation?
No, actually the back and forth motion of the agitator is transferred by a rack and pinion gear arrangement connected to an eccentric inside the transmission. The machine will agitate if the motor turns in one direction and will drain and spin when it turns in the opposite direction. Check out this video if you'd like to see the inner workings of the direct-drive transmission, ruclips.net/video/hOFnb2Zh160/видео.html . The new machine's motors do spin back and forth. Thanks for watching my video!
I think I misunderstood this question. To clarify, those whirlpool direct drive machines built before 2009 use the direct-drive transmission. The newer machines with the electronic control boards do use motors that cycle back and forth during the agitate cycle.
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks for the quick reply and followup! I have the after 2009 model and had to replace the gear box and actuator. Which made me wonder how to test the actuator, and what made the washer agitate. You answered both questions perfectly. Great channel, much appreciated.
Which design of transmission do you think is better? I noticed with the new style, you can't repair it and have to replace the entire part. I tried to crack it open just to see how it worked, but it was built like a tank.
Oh, by far the old direct drive unit built before 2009. They were built to last for 30 years and often went longer. Somewhere in Whirlpool's history someone decided to make throw away machines that have a limited lifetime. I suppose they sell more machines that way. That gearbox wasn't designed to repair, only replace. Unfortunately the cost of the part and labor isn't usually economical and it's probably better to replace a machine that has enough wear on it to compromise the gearbox.
That is very useful information. Does the optical sensor use ALL the other wires? And WHY does one kind of switch use seven wires and one use six wires? I would think the optical sensor would use the same number of wires in either switch.
This is a great question and one that I have wondered about myself. One thing I have noticed is that the more complex the machine is then the shift actuator is usually the brown variety with the extra wire.
I have traced the wires back to the control board and found that in both cases the wires split into two different interfaces. Once they connect to the board I lose them among the many traces on the circuit board.
Within the actuator’s themselves is another circuit board with a chip soldered into it. There is a lot of difference between the two and I’m not sure if the extra wire may be another power source for something this additional circuit board needs.
Bottom line, I don’t know the answer but I’m as curious about it as you are. If you discover the answer I’d appreciate you sharing the info with me.
Thanks so much for your comments and it’s great having you as a new subscriber!
@@HarperandKnowles that kinda leads me tp think you could use a control board from any black switch machine on another black switch machine without worrying about part numbers. Same thing for the red switched machines.
I do it all the time. The only difference you'll find is the number of interface connectors and that's because some models have more features than others.
@@HarperandKnowles does that mean some will have extra sockets that you just dont use as long as everything that you do have hooks up?
@@HarperandKnowles am I right about the black switches and the black machine control boards and the red switches and the red machine control boards or do some of them mix and match?
Great video!!!! Quick question: can an actuator malfunction when installed, yet test perfectly fine when not installed? The factor being the amount of pressure on the arm. Thanks so much in advance for your time!!
Yes, absolutely. It's pretty common for the splutch to go bad. The problem isn't usually with the actuator but with the splutch mechanism. If the splutch jams when shifting, the actuator can't force it into position. Sometimes you can fix this by squirting some silicone lube inside the splutch and working the arm back and forth to insure it moves freely. If it doesn't, it will have to be replaced.
@@HarperandKnowles Holy crap that was a fast response!! I really appreciate it!! Yeah, my Maytag/Bravos has been kicking my butt for most of the day today. Tons of videos suggest it is the drive hub, but after disassembling it and looking at it, it does have some worn splines, but it seems to fit snuggly. After reassembling, the machine did fine. Originally, it stopped agitating in the middle of a cycle. I figure if it were the drive hub, I would have heard some type of grinding, which I did not. After watching more videos, I started to think the actuator might be bad. AND NOW, I guess it could be the splutch! 🤦(had to look that one up btw. Never heard of a splutch! lol) Now where to go?! If I weren’t already bald, I would be pulling my hair out!!!!
Ha, I was laying in bed reading on my iPad and your comment notification came up. That is a very problematic machine. I don’t have much luck repairing them. If I get one from the scrappers I almost always part it out because when I fix one to sell it usually comes back to me. If it’s more than five years old you’ve got the best use out of it.
@@HarperandKnowles And that would be my luck!! 🙄🤣 Yeah, if I can figure out definitively what’s wrong with it now, so I can feel good about selling it, I might just be looking for a different set. This is the newest set I’ve ever owned (bought them used). Excluding all of the new stuff, are there any brands/sets out there that you have had really good luck with? Thanks again for all the information, I really do appreciate it!! And no need to respond tonight. 👍🏻
Speed Queen is probably the best brand out there. Maytag commercial is also pretty good. Barring that, if you can find a nice looking Whirlpool built before 2009 and rebuild it, it may last another 15 years. Good luck with your repair.
Thanks this is fantastic. Do you have the link for testing the tach?
nevermind i found the procedure in the service manual as you stated! Thanks for this video! I'm pretty sure my tach failed.
Thanks for the comment! Good luck with your repair.
Hey, thanks for giving me a heads up on that missing link, I missed it in the edit so I went back and fixed it, I appreciate you catching that.
I’m having an issue with my whirlpool not agitating most of the time I tested and replaced shifter did tachometer test was good the shifter will just cycle back and fourth after the water is done filling if I give the tub a small spin by hand and restart it will agitate and finish the cycle as normal could it the spultch assembly?
It could be that your splutch is jamming. I’d take it apart and see if that inner part that the shifter hooks into moves freely when it’s in its place. Sometimes all it needs is a little silicon lubricant to free it up. Sometimes it’s got to be replaced. Good luck with the repair. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles thanks I will check it out
Can I bypass or hot wire the actuator so that the machine starts no matter what ? Mine is the last one you showed in the video.
Unfortunately, you can't do that. The logic circuit has to be able to read what the actuator is sending it in order to advance its cycles. There's a lot going on in the electronics that aren't obvious to the operator. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks for your reply and I ended up purchasing one from ebay just now.
I have a Kenmore 90 Series washer. After completing one load of wash I started a second. The tub filled with water, agaited then stopped. No matter what setting I put it in nothing happens. No humming, nothing. Another Kenmore 90 series washer was given to me. It agitated but no spin. After checking it out it was only a loose wire. Plugged it in & it went through the cycles. Put a load of cloths in & the only cycle that will now work is the spin. Any help on either one of these would be appreciated. I did notice same series but different timer control model.
The first one sounds like a lid switch failure. Does the second machine fill with water?
Thank you for replying. I checked the lid switch it was good, I even jumped it just to make sure, ( that what I was hoping for) The second on does not fill up. It now only works on the spin cycle. All I did was to connect the loose wire that went to the spin cycle, so I know I did not adjust or short anything out.@@HarperandKnowles
These are direct drive units
On the second one select the wash cycle and pull the knob out then manipulate the temperature switch and see what happens.
I will be back in a few minutes This washer is outside.@@HarperandKnowles
My shift actuator keeps coming off the clutch? I am able to pull it apart and it works fine for a few weeks then falls off again. Do you think this might mean I have a bad clutch?
Do you mean the pin keeps coming out of the splutch slot? If so you may need a new splutch, one that shifts easier. Thanks for watching!
thank you for sharing my friend just fix my actual problems 👍
Thank you for watching! Good luck with your repairs.
Does it matter if installed aftermarket actuator on whirlpool,i changed and not working
As long as it’s designed to work with your machine it should be alright.
Great tutorial 🙌🏾👍🏾
Thank you so much! I'm glad you found the tutorial useful. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask. Thanks for watching!
Can’t you check for continuity across the motor leads as a 1st test. If it open the motor is bad. I have a retractor on a Frigidaire I’m needing to test. The clutch arm that the retractor activates is very stiff , do you think the clutch is the issue? I just hear a buzzing sound in spin mode. Thanks!
It’s a Frigidaire FFTW4120SW
My retractor motor continuity shows to be open
Yeah, you should be able to test the motor that way. Be sure your multimeter isn’t in audible mode. Sometimes that shows open when testing a coiled wire. And the clutch could be the issue if it’s more than the motor can handle. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles thanks, have you worked on this washer at all, wondering if you know this clutch design and best way to confirm it’s not a bad clutch that like you say is too stiff for the motor to handle. It does move and doesn’t have to move too far.
I have worked on these. I don't remember that clutch assembly to be a problematic part. The retractors are pretty robust too. They call that a clutch assembly but it's basically the whole gearbox, shaft , and clutch made into one part. It's real expensive too if I recall. If I had to guess I'd bet that a seal has broken and ruined the inner parts. Did you see any signs of water leakage under the machine?
Great work
Thank you so much 😀
Applied 120Vac on the actuator and it slowly closes but doesnt stay closed. Is that normal? It drops out a few seconds after it is fully close and starts the cycle again. The N.C. contact opens when it is fully closed. Please advice
The actuator will continue to cycle when testing it with a cord. It would have to have input from the control board to stop it at the end of each shifting cycle so what you are seeing is normal. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much. At least I know how it's going. I change three W10913953 Washer Actuator in the past 4 months. I don't know why my actuator didn't work easily. The arm always stayed in the middle and I can't move it back where it comes.
It sounds to me like your splutch may be messed up. When you have your actuator off, be sure the center part of the splutch
(where the actuator arm connects) moves easily back and forth. Sometimes just a spray of WD40 will free it up. Sometimes it will need to be replaced. Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching!
What resistance should these read? I have a Maytag washer that's not engaging anymore but it reads 1970 k ohm's. Book says should be 2 to 3.5
I'm curious, does your washer have the main control knob in the center of the console and perhaps a wash plate or an agitator that attaches to a short shaft gearbox (the agitator bolt is in the bottom of the agitator)? Model Number?
Than you for the video God bless you.
And thank you for watching.
my tech booklet tells me i need ohms range 2k-3.5k between pin 1&2 on the shifter pins ( pins labeled on the red/brownish plastic) I got a short ? beeeeep w ohm multimeter test. Am I possibly onto something?
Well the beep is telling you there is continuity. And if your book tells you there should be a reading between those two pins then there is supposed to be a connection there so I don't think you have a short. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles thanks for quick reply. That makes sense I'm curious why i didn't get a reading in Ohms though. I will recheck my test procedure/settings.
If this shift actuator is bad would it make the machine not agitate or spin?
Yes, but other things could be the issue too. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles it’s only two years old I’ll try that first thanks
@@HarperandKnowles thanks I figured out how to read the error codes I have 2, F5 and F8 seems the door lid is not sensing it being locked. Might be the pice that fits into the lock or might be the lock.
Most probably the lock itself.
Great job thanks helped me out a lot to figure out what was going on with our washing machine..
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
My washer has been giving me fits. I went through the diagnostics and it led to a bad control board. I replaced the control board and still have the same issue. I have determined that the spin and agitate modes are backwards. Ex. when the washer goes into spin mode - the shift actuator releases the clutch so the basket doesn't spin. and when the machine commands agitate mode - the actuator engages the clutch which causes the agitator and basket to both move during agitation mode. So everything electrically checks out. I'm wondering, have you ever experienced a shift actuator that has become faulty actually show the actuator switch closed when its suppose to be open, and open when its suppose to be closed? So when the machine is in spin mode, my actuator arm is pulled in close to the body of the actuator and it shows the switch as open. However, the arm needs to be 90 degrees from the body to put the clutch in physical spin mode. Any ideas?
I bet your splutch is defective and not shifting smoothly. The inner ring should move from agitate to spin without very much resistance. If this is binding then you’ll get the symptoms you are describing. Thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.
@@HarperandKnowles The shift arm moves freely. It is a new splutch also. That was the first thing I tried. The arm is in the wrong position when the machine thinks it’s in spin mode.
Okay, this is a unique problem. I'm thinking that maybe that shift actuator has gotten misaligned some kind of way. Inside, there is a plastic plate attached to the drive motor that has a grooved track that a pin attached to the shift arm follows. Maybe that pin is in the wrong place on that track. I've never seen this happen but that could be the problem. You may have to change that actuator to fix it. Let me know if that works.
Again...u is a boss👌👌
Thank you again!
my Amama washer and Dryer were in water enough to completely cover the motor in my Dryer. I replaced the motor in the dryer and it working fine. will I have to replace the motor in the washer when I start it it clicks alittle water comes in and it stops
You should diagnose it to see exactly what part is failing. Here is a video that will help you do that. Complete Guide to Fixing Your Amana Washing Machine: Works for All Whirlpool Corp. Brands
ruclips.net/video/M6EQUP4iTHM/видео.html. Thanks for watching!
You sir are freaking awesome subbed
Hey! Thanks for your support. And the very kind comment too.
Outstanding!
Thank you kindly!
Outstanding! Thank you!
Very welcome!
My shift actuator appears to be constantly shifting back and forth without stopping... anyone ever seen this before? right now it's actually shifting back and forth even though the wash is over. Could this be because it got wet from a leak? Obviously I will need a new shift actuator just curious about the unusual behavior.
I have never seen this. If it is in constant motion then power is being sent to it that shouldn’t be. I’m thinking you may have a control board issue instead. Putting a new actuator in there will probably not solve the problem. Let us know what you find and thanks for watching!
i think a leaking tub seal had shorted it out and caused it to malfunction. I let it dry out, opened it and cleaned up the board with alcohol and replaced the tub seal. I put it back on to make sure the tub wasn't leaking before installing a new actuator and it seemed to work no problem. I still replaced it since I already bought the new one, but I kept it in a stack of parts just in case. washer running mostly fine now, still have to take apart the "non-serviceable" transmission to change out bearings cause it's loud as all get out, but otherwise working fine now! @@HarperandKnowles 🤷👍
Mi washer shift actuator But then after about one minute disengage
You may have to replace the splutch. Sometimes a squirt of lubricant on it will free it up enough to complete the movement of the shift cycle. Good luck with your repair. Thanks for the comment!
Mine won’t spin. My daughter opens and closes the door till she hears a click then it’ll spin but I can’t do it. It drains but don’t spin always
Your comment is on a video about testing shift actuators. Without knowing what model machine you have I couldn’t make a guess at the problem. Thanks for watching!
Sounds like maybe the lid switch.
I think you may be right. Thanks for watching!
My machine dryer not working properly work stop work stop problem
I would suspect it has a bad motor, but without being able to diagnose it myself that’s only a guess.
thanks👍👍👍👏
Very welcome! Thanks for watching!
WARNING: I connected 110 volts to the 2 pins he mentioned and the tach part flashed like a lightning bolt - .ZAP! No point in testing it now!
Well, you've done something wrong because, as can be seen in the video, I pointed out the correct pins, built the test devices, and tested them on camera. The video doesn't lie. I suspect you had the unit facing away from you when you did that because if you had it correct, those pins don't even connect to the tachometer. Thanks for watching. Sorry, you friztzed your shifter.
@@HarperandKnowles I really appreciate this video on testing shifters.
That being said, I usually splice wires in slightly different places in case the couplers get damaged somehow to avoid the spliced from shorting together.
Someone not accustomed to splicing and or heat shrink might apply too much heat and cause the spliced to short.
Btw, can you ohm the shifters out to see if they are bad? Seems like I have tried to before but can’t remember how the testing turned out.
Can you help me please
.