Well put together video Tyler! I had a gut feeling it was the distributor mounted TFI module not sending the correct ignition signals between the pick up coil, the EEC, and the ignition coil. If the TFI fails electronically it cannot send the four signals that the pick up coil sends out and the EEC receives. Check your fuse box to see if the RABS fuse is blown. RABS is the rear anti-lock brake system. The sensor for the RABS is at the top of the differential on the pinion side. There is also a test port for the RABS in the engine bay close to left inner fender. I brought that up only because I saw the light on the dash for the RABS. Well that's awesome you can drive and enjoy the truck now!!!
I like the "F150 specific" folding ladder/one step you have in front of the grille. I need to get one as you know the engine is mounted very low in the engine bay!! I was helping my neighbor with a thermostat housing leak. I slipped off his plastic one step and almost punctured a hole in my stomach!!! Ouch! My tummy contacted the hood latch -- the part that's pointy!! I did get a really bad bruise and a small cut. It healed up though, so good to go now.
I don't have a ign module problem. My Dad bought this F150 with 4.9 brand new in 1992 and when he gave up driving in his 90's I bought it. The paint is falling off of it but still starts and runs good. 32 years old. Original engine. My ignition module is on the driver side fender wall.
Nice. Yeah the ICM got moved to the fender wall starting with 1992. It's worth noting that the ICM on the fender wall and the one on the distributor are not interchangeable.
Hi. I got a 91 Ford f350 7.5 and mines doing the exact same thing when you started yours but way worst. Like bad. I put new spark plugs. New spark plug wires. New rotor and new distributor. Still bad. Is it my icm all this time?
I got a 91 F-150 5.0, it starts up and runs great. Once it gets warmed up and I turn it off, it doesn't want to start. Starter works perfectly fine, I don't know if I am getting enough fuel pressure but it is running great when it does. Motor turns over but doesn't start once warmed up. if you could help me with this issue that would be great.
Fords are super easy to check fuel pressure right on the fuel rail, there is a small port which a fuel pressure gauge screws on to, Key On, Engine Off your fuel pressure spec is 35-45psi, running is 30-40psi. Just be careful with any gas at the test port if there are ignition wires close to it that might be arcing, I just use a rag around the port when attaching a pressure gauge. Harbor Freight has a test kit thats pretty cheap, ford is always the tiny adapter. Something else to watch for is the Tach jumping when the fault is occurring, If its a bad crank sensor the Tach wont move during cranking when it wont start. Another thing to watch for is a check engine light at key On, it should come on for a few seconds at least, if not the PCM may not be powering up. But if the fault is easily duplicated you should be able to check for spark very easy,
I got a 91 Ford F350 7.5 mine is hesitate. Putters. Jukes. Struggling. Shakes. Idle rough and popping like it's trying to backfire. I put new spark plugs. New spark wires. New distributor. New rotor. New TPS. New EGR valves sensor. New map sensor. I even took the idle air control valve off and cleaned it. And recently put new ICM and still no difference. Still running like crap. Anyone know about, please let me know.
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, I'm not sure with your case. Did you get the ICM from a parts store or did you get on off a truck in a junk yard? Believe it or not the part store ones are known to be faulty all the time. I grabbed mine off a truck in the junk yard that clearly wasnt there for engine trouble (T-boned) abd its worked great since.
89 f150 replaced everything you did. Go to drive drives fine for 15 mins then sputters dies put the clutch in fires right up then dies again I'm at a loss!
Check on this you mentioned the module was heating up? I decided to install a insulator between the module and distributor to see if this works better, mine would run for a while then shut down for say 30 min. Then I'd be ok again, Don't make much sense, so you put dielectric grease on,this would what ? Why transfer the heat to an already hot engine, I'm gonna see how this works for Fords better idea,, which is a bad slogan !! Most of they're better ideas should have been tested and not as the consumers expense, another cash cow affect toward the system,a waste of our money on bs products,,,strange I haven't noticed GM have a slogan like that at all. MYbe I'd be better off going GM
Well the heat is not being transferred to the engine. I used Thermal Paste between the ICM and the distributor itself as the paste that was already there was not covering enough of the surface. I'm sure it helped, but the most important thing I did was go get the used ICM from the junkyard. The ones that come with the "new" distributers are junk and fail really quick.
Well put together video Tyler! I had a gut feeling it was the distributor mounted TFI module not sending the correct ignition signals between the pick up coil, the EEC, and the ignition coil. If the TFI fails electronically it cannot send the four signals that the pick up coil sends out and the EEC receives. Check your fuse box to see if the RABS fuse is blown. RABS is the rear anti-lock brake system. The sensor for the RABS is at the top of the differential on the pinion side. There is also a test port for the RABS in the engine bay close to left inner fender. I brought that up only because I saw the light on the dash for the RABS. Well that's awesome you can drive and enjoy the truck now!!!
Thanks! I will look at that next weekend!
I like the "F150 specific" folding ladder/one step you have in front of the grille. I need to get one as you know the engine is mounted very low in the engine bay!! I was helping my neighbor with a thermostat housing leak. I slipped off his plastic one step and almost punctured a hole in my stomach!!! Ouch! My tummy contacted the hood latch -- the part that's pointy!! I did get a really bad bruise and a small cut. It healed up though, so good to go now.
LoL That's a nice little Harbor Freight "Scafolding Bench" that my father in law got. It's been extreamly useful!
Lol...I've done the same thing. It hurts
I don't have a ign module problem. My Dad bought this F150 with 4.9 brand new in 1992 and when he gave up driving in his 90's I bought it. The paint is falling off of it but still starts and runs good. 32 years old. Original engine. My ignition module is on the driver side fender wall.
Nice. Yeah the ICM got moved to the fender wall starting with 1992. It's worth noting that the ICM on the fender wall and the one on the distributor are not interchangeable.
As cheap as it is, you can spend a little $ and get a badass distributer from summit racing or edelbrock
lets goooo!
Gooooooooooooo!
Hi. I got a 91 Ford f350 7.5 and mines doing the exact same thing when you started yours but way worst. Like bad. I put new spark plugs. New spark plug wires. New rotor and new distributor. Still bad. Is it my icm all this time?
I got a 91 F-150 5.0, it starts up and runs great. Once it gets warmed up and I turn it off, it doesn't want to start.
Starter works perfectly fine, I don't know if I am getting enough fuel pressure but it is running great when it does.
Motor turns over but doesn't start once warmed up.
if you could help me with this issue that would be great.
Fords are super easy to check fuel pressure right on the fuel rail, there is a small port which a fuel pressure gauge screws on to, Key On, Engine Off your fuel pressure spec is 35-45psi, running is 30-40psi. Just be careful with any gas at the test port if there are ignition wires close to it that might be arcing, I just use a rag around the port when attaching a pressure gauge. Harbor Freight has a test kit thats pretty cheap, ford is always the tiny adapter. Something else to watch for is the Tach jumping when the fault is occurring, If its a bad crank sensor the Tach wont move during cranking when it wont start. Another thing to watch for is a check engine light at key On, it should come on for a few seconds at least, if not the PCM may not be powering up. But if the fault is easily duplicated you should be able to check for spark very easy,
@@alanw5879 Thank you, the one problem is I don't have a tach, but thank you for replying back. Hopefully I will get this thing running. :)
I got a 91 Ford F350 7.5 mine is hesitate. Putters. Jukes. Struggling. Shakes. Idle rough and popping like it's trying to backfire. I put new spark plugs. New spark wires. New distributor. New rotor. New TPS. New EGR valves sensor. New map sensor. I even took the idle air control valve off and cleaned it. And recently put new ICM and still no difference. Still running like crap. Anyone know about, please let me know.
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, I'm not sure with your case. Did you get the ICM from a parts store or did you get on off a truck in a junk yard? Believe it or not the part store ones are known to be faulty all the time. I grabbed mine off a truck in the junk yard that clearly wasnt there for engine trouble (T-boned) abd its worked great since.
@@printzproductions9244 I brought the ICM off Amazon.
89 f150 replaced everything you did. Go to drive drives fine for 15 mins then sputters dies put the clutch in fires right up then dies again I'm at a loss!
@@printzproductions9244 I got the ICM from pick a part.
Nice in depth video I’ll sub but anyone have a clue as to why my 2004 4.2L F150 Start then shut off i have spark and fuel pressure, no codes
Is that the Triton engine? Those seem to have many problems.
Check on this you mentioned the module was heating up? I decided to install a insulator between the module and distributor to see if this works better, mine would run for a while then shut down for say 30 min. Then I'd be ok again, Don't make much sense, so you put dielectric grease on,this would what ? Why transfer the heat to an already hot engine, I'm gonna see how this works for Fords better idea,, which is a bad slogan !! Most of they're better ideas should have been tested and not as the consumers expense, another cash cow affect toward the system,a waste of our money on bs products,,,strange I haven't noticed GM have a slogan like that at all. MYbe I'd be better off going GM
Well the heat is not being transferred to the engine. I used Thermal Paste between the ICM and the distributor itself as the paste that was already there was not covering enough of the surface. I'm sure it helped, but the most important thing I did was go get the used ICM from the junkyard. The ones that come with the "new" distributers are junk and fail really quick.
Could be the temp sensor