1989 Ford F-250 With 302 Engine Ignition Control Module Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- Today I’m replacing the ignition control module on my 1989 Ford F-250. I was hoping it would take care of an intermittent stalling issue I was having with the truck but no such luck. I actually needed to replace the in tank fuel pump that was only working intermittently. I’ve since replaced both in tank fuel pumps and the truck runs like a dream. Thanks again for watching.
m7synthetic.myamsoil.com
Thank you I have every video I've watched so far you're the only one that's actually explained how to take the damn thing off thank you sir Good job thank you for all your help
That’s great. Glad to be of help.
Just wanted to say thank you saved me from taking my truck to the shop!!
Thank you. That’s what it’s all about.
Thanks for the video, I'm a pretty good mechanic and I figured out that's what's wrong with my 1989 Ford F-250 that left me stranded yesterday hours from home. Just got a new one and I'm going to go rescue the truck now and I needed to know the bolt size to make sure I had everything I need, and thankfully I found your video and you had this socket size 5.5 mm thank you. I think it's weird that you just posted this 2 weeks ago and here I am with the exact same year exact same truck exact same problem, except when mine died this time it would not restart and has not started since and they're going to tell my truck if I don't get it out of their parking lot. So I hope it works. But I would like to share some info that I've discovered about these same model trucks, there is another problem they have with the ignition shutting off like that and it is over by your battery. Passenger side. There is a connector that goes directly to the negative terminal on your battery it has two pins in it, two wires going to the harness behind the headlight there. Those connectors get corroded inside and they fail on and off. Check continuity between the negative battery terminal and the wires going through that connector. Especially if you undo it and it's full of corrosion. Good luck! 👍
Thanks a lot for the feedback. Good luck.
Oh I just heard you say you needed a fuel pump now. Oh well, maybe somebody else will have the problem and see my other post. Lol. Glad you got yours sorted out. I know mine's getting fuel I can smell it when I crank it over and I tested my fuel injectors with some noid lights. Not getting any spark from my coil but I also realized the power wasn't switching on and off on the top side of the coil which means it's not getting me on and off signal from the distributor. So my problem is most likely that little module you just replaced. If not it's the distributor itself because the little pickup inside goes bad same problem they overheat and bake over time and die. In that case it's just best to get a brand new distributor for it if you can with the module and the pickup and everything all in one
Update on my 1989 Ford f250 XLT with the 302 5 l automatic two-wheel drive. Yes it was the ignition module! Those damn TFI modules! But, I just took my distributor all the way out for a shot cuz I didn't want to mess around and I had a very short socket so I didn't want to strip the screws, and I could put more pressure on it by having it out of the truck. Easy to do on these trucks. But when I took my TFI module off, I was quite shocked how much corrosion was behind it, it was loaded. In fact I think that was the problem. But I wasn't just going to clean it put the old part back on cuz I didn't want to waste time my truck was stranded in a parking lot for two days and they were getting mad at me and telling me they were going to tow it soon. So I just put the new one on it after sanding the flat part of the distributor with sandpaper to clean it up first and I use plenty of dielectric grease that comes with the new module. Make sure you do that! Clearly the one that was put on many years ago by somebody else they did not do that cuz the corrosion was really bad and I didn't see any signs of grease. also I could tell it wasn't original cuz it wasn't a motorcraft part it was some Chinese thing. But it looked like it been on there for a long time. So I cleaned the distributor up and made it all perfectly shiny on the flat spot with sandpaper because if it doesn't ground it doesn't work. In fact I think that was the problem on mine but I wasn't going to risk putting the old part back on and having to take it off again just to swap them. So I kept the old one in case it's still good for a spare, but watch out that corrosion behind the TFI module is a very common thing and can cause a lot of problems. In fact I think it was contributing to some symptoms the truck has had for a while that instantly went away once the new module was on it and it was getting a clean contact to ground on the distributor. it used to start and surge for a few seconds and then it was like it was trying to balance itself out and then it would idle normal. I always thought that was a fuel problem like fuel injectors were dirty or something like that and then the computer would balance it out and it would idle fine. But I'm starting to think that stupid TFI module was not getting a good ground and it was causing it to surge, also sometimes in traffic it would stutter and sputter and have no power at all like it was the fuel pump failing or it had no fuel pressure, it would backfire and butter if I would step on the gas, and sometimes it would last for a few seconds and then drive and sometimes it would last for 15 seconds and then start driving again normally once it got up to speed again. Going uphill was a no-go, going downhill it would catch it speed up and then start firing normally suddenly. I always thought these things that would happen to it that were intermittent or some sort of fuel problem like the fuel pump was failing or maybe the injector drivers in the powertrain control module, but I tested my injector lines with noid lights and I got flashing when I cranked it so I knew it had injector pulse. Besides I could smell the fuel a mile away it just wasn't sparking! I knew it had to have something to do with distributor because I was getting power on both sides of the coil but no spark and the tax side was not flashing when I would crank it it would just stay on. So I realized that the switch that turns the ground on and off which is the TFI module was not working for some reason. There's three reasons that can be actually for if you include bad wiring between the distributor and the coil. The other three would be the TFI module has failed because it's overheated. The TFI module is not getting a ground to the distributor through the ground plate on the back of it. Or the pickup inside the distributor has failed which is also common because of overheating years. Mine was either the failed TFI or the grounding issue and I honestly think it was the grounding issue but I wasn't going to risk putting the old part on it cuz I just wanted to get it fired up and out of there. As soon as I put it on and put my distributor back in made sure my timing was right, put the cap back on, jumped in turn the key and it fired up instantly and runs better now than it has ever run before. And I think maybe those problems it was having in traffic once in awhile and the weird surging when it was cold start was part of the symptoms related to this problem as well, because those problems are gone too. The first time it started with the new module it fired up instantly on a cool night after it's been sitting for days and it started with no surging. And that was the first time that's ever done that. So, bottom line is I think these stupid little modules can cause a wide variety of symptoms but when you're not getting spark out of the coil, but you are getting power to both sides of it, and the power on the tack side is not flashing when you crank it, then it's that damn module! Or it's not grounding, or it's the pickup inside the distributor and it's best just to get another distributor at that point with everything on it. Thanks for the video though I really didn't want to try to figure out what size those stupid little screws were in the dark and strip them by using the wrong one. The 5.5 mm worked but I'm almost wondering if that's wrong because in the late 80s they were still using all standard size screws and bolts I believe. Ford didn't start using metric stuff until the late 90s. I could be wrong though if somebody wants to correct me on that. But thanks for the video it really helped me get the right socket so I didn't have to mess around in the dark in this parking lot where the truck was stranded.
I'm having the sale issue with my 1986 f150 with efi. Ordered both a new ignition control module and a in-tank fuel pump. Hope one of these fixes the issue!
Ended up being a fuel pump for me but the ignition control was a known issue so that’s why I tried that first. Good luck.
How did those two replacements do for your truck? Hope all is well.
thats not the ignition control module thats the TFI module. The ICM box you should be looking for is on the fender. Glad you fixed the fuel problem.
It’s on the fender on the OBS rigs. Distributor mounted on bricknoses
Thanks again for watching. Check out my website at m7synthetic.myamsoil.com
My van starter got very hot. Had to wait for it to cool down before starting. Happened on long rides only
Wow thanks for making this video! I am experiencing very similar happenings with my 89 ford 302! May I ask you questions about this fuel pump you replaced. How did you determine the pump was bad? Thinking back on that fuel pump replacement, when you pulled the pump outlet tube off of the rubber hose, did you see a slit in the hose or not? I ask because I pulled my pump, thinking it is bad, but I found a long slit in that hose and so I replaced it and not the pump.
but I still have the same problem happening, now I wonder if that slit is originally supposed to be there, perhaps for a pressure relief issue??
And there is no one at parts stores of dealerships old enough to answer that question! rrrg, frustrating.
Did your hose have a slit, or did you replace the hose also? because your there and were talking about inside the tank, not an easy area!
I’m sorry I don’t remember for sure about the hose. I don’t think there was a cut in it but I couldn’t say for sure. My way of thinking would have been to replace the pump too while you were already in there with the tank lowered. Over time I have replaced all 3 pumps and the manual switch between tanks. That switch is another factor. I would switch fuel tanks and still be pulling from the other tank overworking the exterior fuel pump on the frame. That’s something to consider as well.
There's another video out how to clean the Tank selector can, further past the Hi pressure pump. Evidently has a lot to do with which tank WILL work. May be a dumb question but did you swap out the fuel filter?
Is the thumping background music needed? Answer = No! We are here to listen to your voice.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ll keep that in mind for future videos.
Thanks for the follow up.
You’re welcome
Replacing the ignition module on my 90 Bronco 5.8l but the distributor is seized up and won't budge. Not an inch. Sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster to try and lossen her up then borrowed a slide hammer and axle puller adapter from Auto Zone to try and pop her loose from underneath but no go. No good reason this shouldn't be a 10 minute R&R. I figure after all this trouble I'll find it wasn't the ignition module but rather the ignition switch. 😆
Sounds about right
finally got the distributor out (2x4 and hammer) and module replaced and sure enough the problem turned out to be the ignition switch mounted on the steering column 😂
Thank you
My pleasure
You should have put pickups in the distributor while you had the distributor out.
Hey when your truck would stall would it cough and sputter before before dying like when u run out of gas? Because I’m working on a 89 f250 5.8L and it will start and run great for a few minutes then with no warning, no sputtering nothin, it just dies like as if u turned the key off. It will restart right away just fine and run for a minute or so then, boom dead. I replaced the frame mounted fuel pump and filter, distributor /cap/rotor/icm, ignition coil, throttle position sensor, and the ignition switch.. nothing changed. I didn’t want to drop the tank to do the in tank pump but I’m thinking I might have to.
It did some of both. A couple of times it died with almost no warning. But I can think of once when it sputtered and I could feather the gas to keep it going for a little bit. The key for me was to listen for the fuel pump on the rail to get louder than normal. When the tank pump would get weak I could really hear that rail pump whine. Then it would eventually stall. I have 2 tanks but the problem for me was that the pump in the rear tank was bad too. So I couldn’t just switch tanks to check it. Good luck.
Have you had good luck with this tfi?
Yes it has worked great ever since it was installed.
I r4eplaced mine and it still is messed up I want to bypass it.
So how did you clean the compound off and new on
I just wiped it off with a shop rag and smeared it on with my finger
@@M7Adventures I did same thing thanks
I’d love to see more videos on that truck man, I have an issue Where my f150 will start perfectly but then shuts off in about 1 second,
I have spark and fuel pressure, no codes anyone have an idea as to what it could be?
Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately I traded the F250 for a 1969 Pontiac Catalina that I’ll have some videos on soon. As to your issue, what year is your truck? Helps to know what fuel delivery system you have among other things.
Try F150 Forum or Ford Truck enthusiasts, some folks there have YEARS at Ford Service managers. Scary what they know, remember..
when them pumps start going bad they over heat quit working
There are a lot of factors when you have 3 fuel pumps. Plus the actuator between the 2 fuel tanks when gummed up can overwork the fuel pumps.
I have an 1989 Ford F-150 won’t start from ignition switch but it’ll crank from 😂sylanoid but no spark
Same issue sabe truck. Did you replace tfi?
I'm replacing mine tomorrow hopefully it does the trick
Not yet I haven’t
Some reason it won’t start from key switch
It sounds like the neutral start switch.
I hope you’ve gotten it worked out
My ‘86 Ford Bronco had Phillips screws holding on the ignition control module.
That makes it easy
Thank brother
Glad to help