Thanks, 30yrs of garage monkey wrenching boats,mustangs.. I always installed at 0 and distributor on #1 and always backfired and had troubles on first fire ups. Don't know why i couldn't figure out something this simple. Always thought i had it 180 out or screwed up valve adjustment. Thanks for a great explanation ✌️
Great video other than sticking that long screwdriver down the distributor hole. It's so much easier to roll an engine over (after the cam and distributor gears have meshed) and come back to #1 than screw around with a long screwdriver. Your distributor will always fall into place and you won't lose your timing adjustment because the gears are meshed. Bring it back to #1 and your are ready for the timing light. No long screwdriver required.
You know a few decades ago, before we hade RUclips we had chiltons or hays repair manuals. It was all we had. Those old manuals have a lot of basic knowledge that is very valuable for people starting to learn. I have several different ones for my 74 Camaro, and the 92 Chevy truck. The old ones have wiring diagrams too. Yeah distributor wrenches are great. Yeah even a good stock ignition will light you up. The full msd in the 74 Camaro, msd distributor , 6AL box and blaster 3 coil will give you good jolt. ⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
Yes sir, my dad set out to rebuild the transmission in our 57 Pontiac (Hy dramatic) he had a Motors manual, but it went only to 1955 models. So, he went out and bought a Glenns motor manual and it went to 1965 and covered the Hy dramatic transmission (this manual was complete and covered all phases of auto repair) I still have this manual and along with other manuals I have do not under any circumstances loan them out (I will never see them again). As a former Mac dealer, we had many distributor wrenches in our inventory but the best one I had was the wrench shown in the video. That was the KD Tools distributor wrench that covered both 9/16- and 1/2-inch wrench sizes for the bulk of distributors used back then. Yes, sir those ignition systems will light you up and it is also not a good idea to try to start an engine if any raw gasoline has been spilled on them as they will ignite the fumes and cause a bad hair day. Everything set right on an engine, and it will start just like it is supposed to. By taking the time to set everything up it is time efficient as opposed to spending more time to get an engine started.
Its not easy to get top engine builders to give up what they have worked hard to learn over the years, so thank you very much. I also just watched your tappet clearance and adjustment video and highly... highly recommend it too.
I’m 70 years old and thank you for sharing your expertise! Ole street rodder from back in the day. Had renal cancer, chemotherapy etc. but still tinkering when able. Cost for me has gone way up to go real fast these days with all the technology. Still try to keep up with it though. Ronnie East, Tennessee
I'm new to engine building and this answers my problem. I was told to install the new distributor at TDC. The motor refuses to start. Now I know why. Thanks!!!
I have rebuilt several engines in my life. 90% of them were stock and the rest had mild street mods. Recently, I took on a Chrysler 440 with a cam designed for a 2800 stall converter and max power between 4500 and 7000 rpm. It was the first time I ever had to preset the timing at 35 degrees to make the engine run. This video helped confirm that I did it right. Thank you.
I watched this a week ago. Then a famous engine builder has a video uploaded today. How to time your engine. It's an ls based engine. By the time he was through. I was more confused. So I came looking for your video. I am no longer confused. Thank you.
Good Video 1). Fuel, set expansion rate 2). Phasing, Spark prior to arrival NOT departing" 3). Ahhhh, kinda "Rough Timing", enough to run then "Fine Tune Timing" 4). Killer shock, yeah good tip! I learned a lot Great post
I just did this and my mild 350 started immediately. I always put my cars together and have to have help getting them running because all the other videos tell u to give it 8 or 12 degrees of advance. So glad i can do this myself now.
Timely, outstanding tips. Tomorrow, I'm putting the distributor and carb back on my Pontiac 463 after I repainted the motor. I have done it before, but your procedures make it fool-proof. Your tip about the 2" estimate from the balancer mark for initial seting is great. Thanks, Leo
I really like your content I've been renting on cars for over 50 years and it took me at least 20 years to figure out what you just explained keep up the good work man like that very much. If we don't pass on our knowledge to the younger generation it's all going to be lost and I mean how many people out there know how to adjust to set up points or even know what a set of points is and condenser and and and and and good job man.
I got to fire a New 305 with new distributor first thing tomorrow, why the world did the customer want the original engine! Nice demo, always like your content, I need that engine in my Drag Car!!
This is how I learned many many years ago, with one exception. When you get the distributor on the right tooth, pop the rotor off and align the reluctor wheel with the pickup, then lock the distributor down. It will be within about 3 degrees of your desired timing so you can pay attention to other things when it first fires up instead of grabbing the timing light.
On point style ignition systems I would get the distributor set in and the engine set where I wanted it timed and then with power to the coil advance the distributor to the point where the ignition coil fires. One can also use the spark plug to fire as well.
I am an old wrench, I mark the distributor case with a sharpy as well. Otherwise, perfect. New subscriber don't disappoint me😂 I will call you on it when I think your mistaken. Good luck
LOL I wouldn't expect anything different. But it was perfect because this was for first time distributor installation. Lol hey keep watching you might catch me slipping somewhere.
Not a professional engine builder but I built my own mini stock engines, Ford 2300. I always set the distributor with the crank on the timing I wanted to run- 38°. It always fired right up and was within 2-3 degrees.
That is the way that I was told back in the seventies (we did not have these fancy timing tapes, although people made their own) to set the mark about one and a half or two inches advanced and set your distributor to fire. I have put together stock engines and have set the timing to where the initial timing mark would be (around 10 to 12 degrees0 and upon getting the engine started and putting a light on it the timing would show around 25 or maybe a little more on the marks. However, I like this method much better.
Nice video and I’ll apply this when I replace the Mallory Unilight with a MSD on my Cleveland. I was told the 80s wanted their distributer back so I have to give up the Mallory. God Bless
My issue was not enough money! Can you help there? Haha Thanks for teaching folks- learning the hard way back in the 70’s blowing out a power valve was a lesson for me alright.
I was hoping you'd cover actually phasing the rotor versus the ignitor signal (points opening or reluctor wheel leaving the sensor). MSD makes a rotor (PN 84211) to be able to adjust the phase between the two. Of course, you need to sacrifice a distributor cap by cutting a hole in it to watch when the spark happens at the rotor and cap terminal to be able to know how to make the adjustment on that adjustable rotor button.
Oh ya that’s right, how I could of overlooked that and I knew that before! Thank you very much for replying, you helped me shake the cobwebs out of my 63 year old brain!
Hiya mate, Steve from England here, great video, maybe get yourself some sort of mounting for your phone/camera which will improve your channel? 😂 I will be redoing my engine in my anglia (105e) soon so will be watching your channel again, many thanks ❤
Thanks so much for the video and information. Does this practice Work for any carbureted vehicle or only for high-powered performance carbureted vehicle ? I have a 1949 Chevy deluxe with the two 216 in line six all original and I would love to be able to get the maximum performance out of that motor while cruising on the freeway I 55 mph is there any help you can give me or guide me into the right direction on how to get maximum performance out of my car
Sweet, now ill never look like i was in a bombing lol. Thanks for the pro tips brian. I really appreciated your valve adjustment vid. Super easy no bs no confusion. Alot of morons tell you to go by feel. The bad news is if ive NEVER done it how the hell am i supposed to know how it feels when proper? Thanks again buddy, dont worry im going to comment alot. Just so u remember me lol. Take care
good solid old school info... it's been a while since i've had to stab a distributor... that being said.. after tuning EFI for the last couple decades.. were kinds spoiled to setting timing with the keyboard these days..
Id like to know why you chose to stop 35 btdc? Is that whats required for your specific engine? For example I've been trying to get timing correct on a stock sbc chevy and from what Ive read you'd stop about 8-12 btdc...please explain...great video too
Just curious how come you don't use on a street rig a vacuum advance. I sure wish you have showed how to set total advance with your timing light. Love your info and videos thank you.
News of the channel enjoy all of your knowledge. I would like to know your honest opinion about protonix distributors. HP ignition. I have a 302 in a 93 f150. Play around on the street. 150 shot of nitrous
@@robrtforguson91 yes on a small block the dot on the crank gear will be pointing straight up and the cam gear will be pointing straight up to install the distributor
@@SalterRacingEngines thank you for your knowledge!
7 дней назад
keven in wyoming . i had to put a knew intake gasket on my SBC. dropped my distributor in on 0 degrees on timing tab. now i dont have enough advance when i run my motor to get total timing. vacume advance hits intake. can i pull my distributer and move it one tooth. and which way would i turn it. clock wise or counter clockwise ? i saw your video to late. thank you.
The only thing that I feel needs clarification is that when you are using the pickup within the distributer, you can not adjust phasing. (Unless I was taught wrong) Only the timing is changed by moving the cap position relative to the rotor button. However, a crank trigger, you have to phase the rotor to the cap in order to get fire down the correct wire and fire in the correct location across the cap terminal.
I understand what you're saying but if you're setting the timing before top dead center that would be the compression stroke. It doesn't become the power stroke until top dead center.
Ok i watched again - If what im hearing is correct the powerstroke is when the intake valve is closing? If thats so then it should be closed on the compression stroke and should not open until after the power stroke? Im askin cause i dont know and just want to make sure thank you sir
Yes sir if you would go to RUclips and type in "four stroke engine animation" and I think the guy that posted it his name is Thomas Stanley I don't know who he is but it's a very short like 45 second video and it perfectly illustrates what's happening after the intake valve opens on the piston downstroke you now have air and fuel in the cylinder as the Piston starts to rise the valve will shut and now you are compressing the mixture just before it reaches top dead center the spark plug will fire you'll reach peak pressure which drives the Piston downward but watch that video several times because it takes that sometimes to really get a good visual.
@@SalterRacingEngines Thank you i sure do appreciate you doing this video and goin a step further and replying, Thank you sir hope you and the fam are healthy happy and getting wealthy
Ok ... Not a bad video but you can do better .... First off I am going to assume that it's fixed timing because you are setting to total not initial advance ... On a regular engine you should set the balancer to what you want in initial timing not total ... Then once the distributor is in place like you showed the trigger point on that distributor is just as the reluctor wheel arm passes the center bar on the pickup so you line that up and lock the distributor down ...your timing will then be within a degree or two of what you want .... In the case of hei distributor trigger point is point to point ....
Hey up mate seen a couple of your videos lately and like what youse are doing so have given the sub, watched this one as wondering if I've missed a trick over the years but turn's out must have been doing good all these years, working on bultaco dirt bikes as a young fella seems to have payed off. Thanks mr salter
With a decked block and the intake manifold I am running I have to cut down my china rails to get the manifold down on the head ports. This makes my oil pump shaft too tall which jacks up my distributor. With out adding a spacer between the distributor and intake manifold what is the procedure to cut down the oil pump shaft and what would the optimum clearance be at the distributor pin and shaft slot?
Hello and I'm so glad you asked me that before you did anything Please do not cut down the oil pump shaft You will make one of the biggest mistakes towards an engine you could have possibly made if you do that. In the video I said the crank drives the camshaft and the camshaft drives the distributor, well if you don't put the correct spacer under your distributor your cam gear and distributor gear will no longer be in alignment and you will chew that thing into pieces possibly sending large shards of steel and cast iron running through your engine which will for sure wipe it out. You have to make sure the distributor is in the same factory location it was designed to be in so you will have to use a spacer. The only other option is you can buy a distributor that has an adjustable collar on it so all you have to do is loosen a little set screw and you can slide it up and down the shaft and do it that way.
So... I'm assuming the fàctory timing mark on the balancer or tab on the timing chain cover is approx 34-38 deg advanced. Reading spec's are 4 to 8 degrees depending on the engine. Previously assumed those 30+ degrees of timing were max advance at speed (vacuum + mechanical). Would like clarification
Hey great question man I will be sure to address that very soon I'm going to do a part two on that video there's a lot of stuff people asked and hopefully I can clear all that up But for now the white Mark in the video is top dead center and then the timing tape allows me to see where my distributor is firing so if the white Mark lines up with whatever number that is the actual ignition timing the engine is on at that moment
When you set the timing on a model A you better be having it at 2° after top dead center if you're starting it with the crank it won't kick back on you that way.
Yeah I had bumped it when I was trying to explain things it was actually about 50° advance and by the way I've never set the timing on that kind of car
@@gn5673 yes looking at the timing specifications for that particular engine you would install the distributor like I'm showing and then get the rotor button pointed exactly where it needs to be according to the procedures for that engine and lock it down. There are some 4 l Jeeps that have similar setups as well. For example if the computer wants the rotor button pointing at the number one plug wire so that it can control the timing then you would get the intake valve starting to close look down at your balancer and stop it dead on TDC. And then get your rotor button where it's entering into plug number one where it's like halfway into the terminal and that will ensure your phasing is dead on and as the coil is firing you're getting the entire burst of energy from the coil into the wire as its entering into the wire and not as it's leaving the wire. I hope that makes sense.
Hope Everyone Enjoyed This Video. Like, Comment, Share, And Subscribe For More!
So if for some reason it don’t start right away do you set everything back or you just keep cranking it till it starts?
Thanks, 30yrs of garage monkey wrenching boats,mustangs.. I always installed at 0 and distributor on #1 and always backfired and had troubles on first fire ups. Don't know why i couldn't figure out something this simple. Always thought i had it 180 out or screwed up valve adjustment. Thanks for a great explanation ✌️
I have been building engines for 50 years. I enjoy your videos and correct information
Keep up the good work.
@@larrystamey9099 thank you very much sir
Great video other than sticking that long screwdriver down the distributor hole. It's so much easier to roll an engine over (after the cam and distributor gears have meshed) and come back to #1 than screw around with a long screwdriver. Your distributor will always fall into place and you won't lose your timing adjustment because the gears are meshed. Bring it back to #1 and your are ready for the timing light. No long screwdriver required.
You know a few decades ago, before we hade RUclips we had chiltons or hays repair manuals. It was all we had.
Those old manuals have a lot of basic knowledge that is very valuable for people starting to learn.
I have several different ones for my 74 Camaro, and the 92 Chevy truck.
The old ones have wiring diagrams too.
Yeah distributor wrenches are great.
Yeah even a good stock ignition will light you up.
The full msd in the 74 Camaro, msd distributor , 6AL box and blaster 3 coil will give you good jolt. ⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
Yes sir, my dad set out to rebuild the transmission in our 57 Pontiac (Hy dramatic) he had a Motors manual, but it went only to 1955 models. So, he went out and bought a Glenns motor manual and it went to 1965 and covered the Hy dramatic transmission (this manual was complete and covered all phases of auto repair) I still have this manual and along with other manuals I have do not under any circumstances loan them out (I will never see them again). As a former Mac dealer, we had many distributor wrenches in our inventory but the best one I had was the wrench shown in the video. That was the KD Tools distributor wrench that covered both 9/16- and 1/2-inch wrench sizes for the bulk of distributors used back then. Yes, sir those ignition systems will light you up and it is also not a good idea to try to start an engine if any raw gasoline has been spilled on them as they will ignite the fumes and cause a bad hair day. Everything set right on an engine, and it will start just like it is supposed to. By taking the time to set everything up it is time efficient as opposed to spending more time to get an engine started.
Its not easy to get top engine builders to give up what they have worked hard to learn over the years, so thank you very much. I also just watched your tappet clearance and adjustment video and highly... highly recommend it too.
I’m 70 years old and thank you for sharing your expertise! Ole street rodder from back in the day. Had renal cancer, chemotherapy etc. but still tinkering when able. Cost for me has gone way up to go real fast these days with all the technology. Still try to keep up with it though. Ronnie East, Tennessee
You are exactly right, good video. I have been a engine builder for 62 years.
I'm new to engine building and this answers my problem. I was told to install the new distributor at TDC. The motor refuses to start. Now I know why. Thanks!!!
I have rebuilt several engines in my life. 90% of them were stock and the rest had mild street mods. Recently, I took on a Chrysler 440 with a cam designed for a 2800 stall converter and max power between 4500 and 7000 rpm. It was the first time I ever had to preset the timing at 35 degrees to make the engine run. This video helped confirm that I did it right. Thank you.
I watched this a week ago.
Then a famous engine builder has a video uploaded today. How to time your engine. It's an ls based engine. By the time he was through. I was more confused. So I came looking for your video.
I am no longer confused.
Thank you.
I'm an old motorcycle mechanic, but my wife is making me transfer my hobby to something with 4 wheels! This is just what I needed! Very cool brother!
Great video clearly explained . I wish I watched this yesterday as I was trying to time my 455 Pontiac and created a fireball out of the carby.
Good Video
1). Fuel, set expansion rate
2). Phasing, Spark prior to arrival NOT departing"
3). Ahhhh, kinda "Rough Timing", enough to run then "Fine Tune Timing"
4). Killer shock, yeah good tip!
I learned a lot
Great post
I just did this and my mild 350 started immediately. I always put my cars together and have to have help getting them running because all the other videos tell u to give it 8 or 12 degrees of advance. So glad i can do this myself now.
Keep the videos coming, not just for racers but for the street guys too. Thanks
That's great content Brian. Especially the phasing of the distributor to fire before it spins past the electrode.
Timely, outstanding tips. Tomorrow, I'm putting the distributor and carb back on my Pontiac 463 after I repainted the motor. I have done it before, but your procedures make it fool-proof. Your tip about the 2" estimate from the balancer mark for initial seting is great. Thanks, Leo
The whole timing thing has haunted me . But your indepth explanation has been a Big help.
Thanks and keep doing what you do.
When learning there is always a better way, thank you for another great lesson.
Thank you so very much. Finally a down and dirty method. That two inch trick. Old 283. Worked on the balancer.
Wow I did some teaching myself, but I can’t tell you how much I learned from you today. Thank you, your a really great teacher
I really like your content I've been renting on cars for over 50 years and it took me at least 20 years to figure out what you just explained keep up the good work man like that very much. If we don't pass on our knowledge to the younger generation it's all going to be lost and I mean how many people out there know how to adjust to set up points or even know what a set of points is and condenser and and and and and good job man.
One Great video & visual demonstration is excellent.⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Simple and clear explanation thanks
Also turning the distributor with the key on looking for a spark at the number one wire that works well too.
Never heard this but it's GENIUS
I really like your video style very detailed and easy to learn from
Thanks, I got the part number from you're timing light, ordered one so i knew it would work with MSD. Thanks again.
I got to fire a New 305 with new distributor first thing tomorrow, why the world did the customer want the original engine! Nice demo, always like your content, I need that engine in my Drag Car!!
This is how I learned many many years ago, with one exception. When you get the distributor on the right tooth, pop the rotor off and align the reluctor wheel with the pickup, then lock the distributor down. It will be within about 3 degrees of your desired timing so you can pay attention to other things when it first fires up instead of grabbing the timing light.
On point style ignition systems I would get the distributor set in and the engine set where I wanted it timed and then with power to the coil advance the distributor to the point where the ignition coil fires. One can also use the spark plug to fire as well.
@@billywird exactly the same as you on a points car. Just pull the distributor in the direction of the vacuum advance until it sparks.
great video. accurate info. spoken loud enough to hear you. good job. sub'd!
Still got eyebrows 👍🏼😂😂😂😂🤛🏾😎 timing has been my nightmare, great post and now I'm getting back to my motor,yessir!👍🏼🏁🏁🏁
Great video buddy!I did subscribe too. It's obvious you know what you are doing! I'm putting a new head gasket on my 66 Chevelle 327.
I am an old wrench, I mark the distributor case with a sharpy as well. Otherwise, perfect. New subscriber don't disappoint me😂 I will call you on it when I think your mistaken. Good luck
LOL I wouldn't expect anything different. But it was perfect because this was for first time distributor installation. Lol hey keep watching you might catch me slipping somewhere.
But you know now that I think about it I probably should have brought that up. Dang
Not a professional engine builder but I built my own mini stock engines, Ford 2300. I always set the distributor with the crank on the timing I wanted to run- 38°. It always fired right up and was within 2-3 degrees.
That is the way that I was told back in the seventies (we did not have these fancy timing tapes, although people made their own) to set the mark about one and a half or two inches advanced and set your distributor to fire. I have put together stock engines and have set the timing to where the initial timing mark would be (around 10 to 12 degrees0 and upon getting the engine started and putting a light on it the timing would show around 25 or maybe a little more on the marks. However, I like this method much better.
Nice video and I’ll apply this when I replace the Mallory Unilight with a MSD on my Cleveland. I was told the 80s wanted their distributer back so I have to give up the Mallory. God Bless
Nothing bad with a Mallory dist. Msd dist are made cheap like the boxes also
My issue was not enough money! Can you help there? Haha
Thanks for teaching folks- learning the hard way back in the 70’s blowing out a power valve was a lesson for me alright.
That engine sounds like a beast great video thanks
Great video ..... that is how my popps taught me to do it starts everytime no fuss !
Good timing on the refresher course. ( Pun intended ). I have to remove my distributor for repair and retime my ignition tomorrow. THANX
Best video yet!
I needed this video, really helped confirm some details for me. Excellent explanation
Thank you for sharing your knowledge . I really enjoyed it .
Wow man this was explained perfectly. Awesome 👌
Watching from 'Down Under' Oz 🇦🇺. Have sub'd, looking forward to more gr8 content and videos.... cheers 👍
I just hope them boys on tv ( and I know you who you're talking about ) watch this because it made them look so bad. Love the videos.
@@ThomasMurrell-zb5vg hahaha
nice tips! thanks Brian, enjoyed the live stream yesterday also!
Quality information & advice 👍 Thank you
I got to admit I did learn about the MSD tape different sizes thank you for that.
Just subscribed I love technical information
I was hoping you'd cover actually phasing the rotor versus the ignitor signal (points opening or reluctor wheel leaving the sensor). MSD makes a rotor (PN 84211) to be able to adjust the phase between the two. Of course, you need to sacrifice a distributor cap by cutting a hole in it to watch when the spark happens at the rotor and cap terminal to be able to know how to make the adjustment on that adjustable rotor button.
I like bumping the starter to line up the pump shaft. Or turn the flywheel a little bit let it fall right in.
Yeah I'm a little scared to show people that but that's what I do too
That’s what I always do too!
Your content is outstanding, thanks for sharing
Oh ya that’s right, how I could of overlooked that and I knew that before! Thank you very much for replying, you helped me shake the cobwebs out of my 63 year old brain!
Hiya mate, Steve from England here, great video, maybe get yourself some sort of mounting for your phone/camera which will improve your channel? 😂 I will be redoing my engine in my anglia (105e) soon so will be watching your channel again, many thanks ❤
Educational, I've never did it that way!
I will now, especially on run stand.
Your video was very informative thanks
Thanks you for sharing your in put on everything
Another great video, thanks!
Great Channel! Liked & Subscribed
Oh my. That engine sounded great
Thanks so much for the video and information.
Does this practice Work for any carbureted vehicle or only for high-powered performance carbureted vehicle ?
I have a 1949 Chevy deluxe with the two 216 in line six all original and I would love to be able to get the maximum performance out of that motor while cruising on the freeway I 55 mph is there any help you can give me or guide me into the right direction on how to get maximum performance out of my car
@@trivigonzales any engine with a distributor
Sweet, now ill never look like i was in a bombing lol. Thanks for the pro tips brian. I really appreciated your valve adjustment vid. Super easy no bs no confusion. Alot of morons tell you to go by feel. The bad news is if ive NEVER done it how the hell am i supposed to know how it feels when proper? Thanks again buddy, dont worry im going to comment alot. Just so u remember me lol. Take care
nice sounding motor
Just saw your video it helps a lot. When you apply the tape do you zero on the TDC on the tab bolted to the block?
@@markcooper6860 once you find true top dead center then yes
good solid old school info... it's been a while since i've had to stab a distributor... that being said.. after tuning EFI for the last couple decades.. were kinds spoiled to setting timing with the keyboard these days..
Very well explained and not to hard on the eyes either
Id like to know why you chose to stop 35 btdc? Is that whats required for your specific engine? For example I've been trying to get timing correct on a stock sbc chevy and from what Ive read you'd stop about 8-12 btdc...please explain...great video too
Thanks you for sharing your in put on everything 😊😅.
Thanks for the great info.
Love your videos buddy
Great video 👍👍
Great at explaining it.
Thank you very much I’ve got 1986 351 Windsor I’m working on
Great tips thankyou
Just curious how come you don't use on a street rig a vacuum advance. I sure wish you have showed how to set total advance with your timing light. Love your info and videos thank you.
Hey stay tuned I'll make that my next video I meant to do it earlier but I haven't got to it but I will make that the next video
News of the channel enjoy all of your knowledge. I would like to know your honest opinion about protonix distributors. HP ignition. I have a 302 in a 93 f150. Play around on the street. 150 shot of nitrous
I have my timing cover off when you're putting the distributor in your timing gears are both at 12:00 right? Great video by the way
@@robrtforguson91 yes on a small block the dot on the crank gear will be pointing straight up and the cam gear will be pointing straight up to install the distributor
@@SalterRacingEngines thank you for your knowledge!
keven in wyoming . i had to put a knew intake gasket on my SBC. dropped my distributor in on 0 degrees on timing tab. now i dont have enough advance when i run my motor to get total timing. vacume advance hits intake. can i pull my distributer and move it one tooth. and which way would i turn it. clock wise or counter clockwise ? i saw your video to late. thank you.
Great job, thanks
Very good video thanks
Nice thanks man!
The only thing that I feel needs clarification is that when you are using the pickup within the distributer, you can not adjust phasing. (Unless I was taught wrong) Only the timing is changed by moving the cap position relative to the rotor button. However, a crank trigger, you have to phase the rotor to the cap in order to get fire down the correct wire and fire in the correct location across the cap terminal.
I understand what you're saying but if you're setting the timing before top dead center that would be the compression stroke. It doesn't become the power stroke until top dead center.
very good video 👍
Ok i watched again - If what im hearing is correct the powerstroke is when the intake valve is closing? If thats so then it should be closed on the compression stroke and should not open until after the power stroke? Im askin cause i dont know and just want to make sure thank you sir
Yes sir if you would go to RUclips and type in "four stroke engine animation" and I think the guy that posted it his name is Thomas Stanley I don't know who he is but it's a very short like 45 second video and it perfectly illustrates what's happening after the intake valve opens on the piston downstroke you now have air and fuel in the cylinder as the Piston starts to rise the valve will shut and now you are compressing the mixture just before it reaches top dead center the spark plug will fire you'll reach peak pressure which drives the Piston downward but watch that video several times because it takes that sometimes to really get a good visual.
@@SalterRacingEngines Thank you i sure do appreciate you doing this video and goin a step further and replying, Thank you sir hope you and the fam are healthy happy and getting wealthy
Ok ... Not a bad video but you can do better ....
First off I am going to assume that it's fixed timing because you are setting to total not initial advance ... On a regular engine you should set the balancer to what you want in initial timing not total ...
Then once the distributor is in place like you showed the trigger point on that distributor is just as the reluctor wheel arm passes the center bar on the pickup so you line that up and lock the distributor down ...your timing will then be within a degree or two of what you want .... In the case of hei distributor trigger point is point to point ....
Hey up mate seen a couple of your videos lately and like what youse are doing so have given the sub, watched this one as wondering if I've missed a trick over the years but turn's out must have been doing good all these years, working on bultaco dirt bikes as a young fella seems to have payed off. Thanks mr salter
right on thanks for the vid
No problem 👍
What's your opinion on running locked distributor on daily drivet..🤔
With a decked block and the intake manifold I am running I have to cut down my china rails to get the manifold down on the head ports. This makes my oil pump shaft too tall which jacks up my distributor. With out adding a spacer between the distributor and intake manifold what is the procedure to cut down the oil pump shaft and what would the optimum clearance be at the distributor pin and shaft slot?
Hello and I'm so glad you asked me that before you did anything
Please do not cut down the oil pump shaft
You will make one of the biggest mistakes towards an engine you could have possibly made if you do that.
In the video I said the crank drives the camshaft and the camshaft drives the distributor, well if you don't put the correct spacer under your distributor your cam gear and distributor gear will no longer be in alignment and you will chew that thing into pieces possibly sending large shards of steel and cast iron running through your engine which will for sure wipe it out. You have to make sure the distributor is in the same factory location it was designed to be in so you will have to use a spacer.
The only other option is you can buy a distributor that has an adjustable collar on it so all you have to do is loosen a little set screw and you can slide it up and down the shaft and do it that way.
@@SalterRacingEnginesthis is super important advice
So... I'm assuming the fàctory timing mark on the balancer or tab on the timing chain cover is approx 34-38 deg advanced. Reading spec's are 4 to 8 degrees depending on the engine. Previously assumed those 30+ degrees of timing were max advance at speed (vacuum + mechanical). Would like clarification
Hey great question man I will be sure to address that very soon I'm going to do a part two on that video there's a lot of stuff people asked and hopefully I can clear all that up
But for now the white Mark in the video is top dead center and then the timing tape allows me to see where my distributor is firing so if the white Mark lines up with whatever number that is the actual ignition timing the engine is on at that moment
Outstanding! I did not expect a reply... and so soon after I commented. I anxiously await your response. And ThankYou
When you set the timing on a model A you better be having it at 2° after top dead center if you're starting it with the crank it won't kick back on you that way.
Yeah I had bumped it when I was trying to explain things it was actually about 50° advance and by the way I've never set the timing on that kind of car
@@SalterRacingEngines That's okay just good info.
does this work on stock GM TBI engines with ECM controlled timing?
@@gn5673 yes looking at the timing specifications for that particular engine you would install the distributor like I'm showing and then get the rotor button pointed exactly where it needs to be according to the procedures for that engine and lock it down. There are some 4 l Jeeps that have similar setups as well. For example if the computer wants the rotor button pointing at the number one plug wire so that it can control the timing then you would get the intake valve starting to close look down at your balancer and stop it dead on TDC. And then get your rotor button where it's entering into plug number one where it's like halfway into the terminal and that will ensure your phasing is dead on and as the coil is firing you're getting the entire burst of energy from the coil into the wire as its entering into the wire and not as it's leaving the wire. I hope that makes sense.
383 afr l98 heads piston stop won't work? Not long enough?- trying to double check my timing mark / pointer help!!
So can u put the balancer on 35 degrees and drop the distributor in with an vacuum advance distributor or this only for 8551 msd distributors??
@@jamesquinnie7573 yes once it's running you can find tune it.
I found out the hard way setting my timing and turning the dizzy by hand!! I had the car singing at 2500 and got ZAPPED to the MOON Lol...
Good info
Bad ass.👍🏾👍🏾