Ford Bronco F150 Hard Start | No Start | Ignition Module & Pickup Coil | Bronco Restoration
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- Опубликовано: 6 янв 2022
- Hello,
This video shows how to replace an ignition coil and a distributor pickup coil on a 1980-1996 Ford Bronco F Series, Mustang, ect...
The truck shown in this video is a 1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer.
Links:
1994-1996 ignition module: amzn.to/3tbRYcy
1992-1993 ignition module: amzn.to/33dBN3o
1985-1991 ignition module: amzn.to/3zFCWNE
Pickup coil: amzn.to/3fiOsoR
Distributor Cap and Rotor: amzn.to/3f1n5PJ
Ignition Coil: amzn.to/3eZwRC0
Tool Kit: amzn.to/3F85gcy
Spark Tester: amzn.to/3q5KIgl
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Truck Specs:
1990 Ford Bronco
Eddie Bauer Trim package
Black with Tan exterior
Saddle color interior
5.8L 351 Windsor engine
E4OD 4 Speed overdrive Transmission
Manual on the Fly 4x4
3.55 Dana 44 Front Axle w/Manual hubs
3.55 Ford 8.8 Read end
15" Alcoa Aluminum wheels
31" BFG All terrain tires
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Bronco Videos Playlist:
ruclips.net/p/PLc...
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Thank you.
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This is the best video that I have ever seen in this particular topic on the entire RUclips. Hands down. I am 50. And have searched about every topic and video out here. Very detailed. Extremely well explained. And so very timely, in my case in particular that it is down right spooky. I have been restoring my 84 Bronco for 3 years now. Just yesterday pulled the spark plug. Placed the boot on it. Cranked it to see if I had fire/spark between the electrode. There was none. Also have been having all the issues described prior to the no start. Plus more. Even overheat & stopped in the middle of the street. You sir are a true champion. Am saving this video to my Truck list.Thanks!
Great job! I like how you explained everything! 🙌🏻
Wow. I have a '95 F-150 short bed straight six that I have not been able to start for a couple of years now. This channel is going to be the solution to that once and for all! Thank you!
As with any car/truck that has been sitting, start by removing and cleaning/replacing the fuel tank, pump, and lines.
Outstanding detailed, right to the point video with no annoying music! God Bless you and your family Son!
I appreciate that!
Very well done, very informative; even for this old mechanic after 50 years of experience.
I hate those videos with all of the annoying music and background distractions.
Again, this is a top notch video
The ignition amplifier, that can be either grey or black, either distributor or remote mounted, is call a Thick Film Ignition amplifier or TFI for short. Thick film refers to the printing on the ceramic substrate that connects the individual components including the power switch, which I think is a bipolar Darlington transistor. TFI is an "Electronic", ignition for use with a distributor, meaning no mechanical points (or switch), and is controlled by the EEC-IV PCM (usually 60 pin main connector) which controls spark timing in relation to engine RPM and Load (Torque).
TFIs are generally more reliable when they are remote heatsink mounted along the engine compartment inside fender. At the time the TFI was developed it was considered very ambitious and futuristic. Some would say to be reliable it should mounted remote from the distributor and not on it.
If you fast forward to more modern "smart" coil-on-plug type ignitions the design is very similar but the electronics are more robust in terms of elevated temperatures and temperature cycling, and of course features (auto fire, thermal shutdown, etc.). From a power dissipation standpoint it makes sense to put the ignition coil driver (amplifier) at or neat the coil it is controlling, this was the motivation for the TFI.
In V8 engine controlled EEC-V PCMs (the generation after EEC-IV and TFI), with distributorless coil-on-plug ignition, you will find 8 IGBT ignition amps running the 8 coil-on-plug coils (one amp or smart power device in the PCM for each "dumb" coil), and actually had space to add two more IGBTs for running a V10. However, having all of these IGBTs on-board the PCM increased the module power dissipation requirements. Also, it can be a challenge to control multiple high current ignition IGBTs with the PCM and keep the PCM electrically quiet.
Great video with step by step, explanation and practical, hands on demonstration. Many thx!
You explained everything really well! Thank you! Big thumbs up!👍👍👍
I feel like I’m watching a how to video circa 1990. That bronco is immaculate.
yep, he keeps that puppy in ship-shape condition. I'd buy that rig from him in a heartbeat.
Wow! What a great video! Very well done. Thank you so much!
As a beginner female self-taught mechanic, I thank you for your great video shots and detail. 🎉
Thanks for the video. You gave me the confidence to finally getting my pickup coil replaced.
Beautiful camera video. I also learn a lot when you do your videos too.
Thank you.
Great video, great detail on the difference of years, and parts thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video!! Everything was super super detailed and easy to follow. Just bought a 96 F150 with the 5.8 and sometimes it starts hard. I was thinking it was fuel related but this could be it too
Check the color of your ignition module (fender mounted) it should be black.
Checking the fuel pressure is an easy task. I recommend a Ford FPR if a replacement is needed. Good luck.
C tu plaisant et beau a regarder quelqu’un qui travaille bien!!!
Thank you
Very well explained 👍
She’s beautiful man. I just picked up a black 91 F150 Lariat single cab with the 5.0 that was pretty hopeless looking that polished out beautifully. Been going through it bit by bit. Really nice Bronco.
Thank you, and congrats on your purchase.
Very informative video, thanks
Most the early defective modules were made I believe in France, now if you put on a really cheap set of plug wires you are going to have module problems. Especially the cheap duralast.
Just changed the pickup coil in my 1996 F150 Straight Six after it would run then die and not generate an ignition pulse. Had used an aftermarket black icm that seemed to cure the problem originally then it died again so I went thru the process of pulling the gear off the distributor and replacing the pick up coil. Started right up but got the same codes so I put the original black motorcraft icm back on and no codes.
A craftsmen 7/32 1/4 inch deep well works good on the ignition module screws.
I have an 89 F250 with the 7.5L and I had to extend the wires to the fender and bought a Heatsink to help. I realized the other day after cranking it the ICM was way too hot to touch, I’m guessing it’s on the way out. Going to replace it and hope it starts. It started ok but died and wouldn’t start again.
I am assuming its all different on '97 which I am having hard start not so great idle (usually when humidity is higher)
The truck in this video is a 1990 Ford Bronco. Let me know if you have any questions regarding this repair.
You were saying to get the black one for a 96. Every time I look up the number and enter the make and model it says it doesn’t fit this vehicle. It’s a 1996 EB Bronco. 351w.
Good video thanks bud! 👍🏻
Any time!
Great Video!
Thank you.
Very nice! Need to post a pick of that Bronco👍
any concern about the bearings/bushings inside the original distributor being worn out when you are refreshing it?
Does this matter if it's a v8 versus Inline 6? I got a black ICM off a 96 F150 to replace the bad one on my own black 96 F150 but mine is a v8 and the one I got it off of is an inline 6. FYI I made sure I pulled off an original Motorcraft part
I just did a new motor rebuild In 96 ford and have changed everything brandnew and cables have had everything checked now my last thing I haven’t changed is this so I will be trying this
I am having a hard start after my 1995 f150 is warm. Starts very easy when cold.
Will have to find my list of parts i changed. After each "fix" it ran better but after a month of so the problem has returned 100%...
Great video btw!
Check the iac valve and verify egr functionality. If egr is stuck open it will make a hard start condition
@@TheFixTech thank you for the reply! I picked up a vac gun (running these older trucks it was about time to get one). I know the IAC is quite filthy as well. See what the results are this weekend.
Yup...high pressure fuel pump if it starts cold just fine
Hi man, do you have any fix to the code 212? It's a F-150 1995 I don't know if this repair will help
Thanks for the video...I have a Ford Escort 90' 1.6L from Germany that have the seem ignition Control Module 86FB-12A297-AA...The module from a 4 cylinder can fit a with 6 cylinder or 8cylinder
Good to know, is your car a right hand drive?
What's the best distributor to replace it with,some say no,duralast,stay with motorcraft.side to side wobble on our shaft???.and separate ignition module kind of distributor,what kind..and how to test pickup coil to see if it's good.
If you can find a motorcraft distributor, that is the best option. All replacement distributors will come with the pickup coil. Some replacement distributors will come complete with cap, rotor, and module. The distributor mounted module was used from 1985-1991. The shaft should not have any side to side play, a little in/out is fine. Be sure to replace with correct distributor as the gear is made or either iron or steel and cannot be mixed matched with cam gear. For example if you have a steel gear distributor then you can only replace with another steel gear distributor
Ok my 1977 f150 my son gave me. 2 years ago his daughter drove it that summer started kicking back broke starter I told him replace cap&rotor starter. All good no issues. He gave me truck now it sat 2 months. Now no start. 6.6L so I put a start button on solenoid. Screwdriver in coil wire near ac bracket 3/4 " spark or more. Put coil wire on take a plug wire off crank it over lucky to get 1/32 inch spark out of spark plug terminal to ground. Think cap or rotor defective? I am kind of thinking that. But yesterday l removed coil wire from coil wiped debris off. Started right up. Today no start spark out of coil wire not distributor.
What is the motorcraft part number of the black module?
From my experience don't waste your time with anything if you don't hear the r fuel pump it's the fuel pump. I replaced every part of my truck just to find out it was just the fuel pump
Facts
I changed everything and watched all kinds of wack jobs making videos and its still fuel pump only no one knows where the second one is on my 89 bronco ii including people who made video's about it lol but on a lighter note this is a professional straight to the point video, keep up the good work.
So this recall,,what does ford do for that recall you mentioned?
A way to identify this as the problem is to verify if the check engine light comes on in the run position and goes out during cranking. The check engine light should turn off during cranking. If it stays on, the ecu is telling you that it is not receiving a profile ignition pickup (pip) signal during cranking. The ecu relies on this signal to determine engine rotation and cylinder 1 identification. The problem is usually no signal from the ignition pickup in the distributor but could be the icm, ecu or a power or ground problem. On OBD II systems a P0320 code (engine speed sensor) may be set as a pending code or in the freeze frame data.
Good information.
So I have a 86 F150 5.0 I had no spark so I got a boneyard distributor out of a 91 I installed everything the truck starts and runs OK but now the emissions light stays on and won’t go off. I have no way to scan to see why the admission light is staying on if you have any information, I would appreciate it
My best guess on this one would be either the boneyard distributor may have internal faults since even remanufactured distributors are not usually tested "hot" i.e. to expose an intermittent PIP issues. Since it looks like the emissions light came on you likely have a 211 code related to either the ignition module or the distributor. I do know that at some time i believe 90-91 ford went to a remote mounted ignition module instead of on the distributor moving it to the firewall to reduce heat. I believe the dist mounted icm is grey and the remote one is black and two are not compatible . There is something different about how the PIP signal goes either straight to the module and/or ECU or thru one to the other or not at all to the ECU (idk if carbureted if it has one or at least not the same kind) if it was carbureted. Perhaps the 86 icm and the 91 dist are not compatible? You might try seeing if an auto parts store has an OBD I reader or one that can link to the EEC-IV or maybe read the light flashes to see the code I'm not sure how to read that. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful@@200MPHINTHEWRONGLANE
@@michaelethangross3395 yes that’s what I’m trying to find out. I’m trying to see if the 86 ECM and the 91 ECM are the same ..I purchased the distributor from eBay seller said it was from a running donor.
Hey so I have a 1990 f150 with a 5.0 that would shut off while idling or running. There’s no warning sign when it shut off almost like I turn the key. I was thinking it might be the ignition module but not sure. The truck turn on with no problem after it shuts off any suggestions with be appreciated.
Definitely sounds like the module and pickup coil symptoms. Could also be a faulty fuel pump. Does it shut off a while still cold or only when hot?
I’ll let it idle and then it just shuts off after maybe 10min but the it turn right back on. I also have a 1993 with the same issue and symptoms but does not do it as frequently. The 1993 has two new fuel pumps.
I also have a 93 E150 Club Wagon Van 5.8L. I've been having iddle issues and irregular idling were even after is warm,the idle stays high. I have it at mechanics and got egr valve code and something about not getting hot enough for her valve to open. I have a 160° thermostat on it and a 3 core all aluminium radiator so it runs cold.
I saw a video were the guy was having simular issues and change out a cat converter and 02 sensor that went bad and fixed the issue. What do you think..?
These are Efi engines and need to run at the correct temp, the ecm will not go into “closed loop” mode until the engine reaches 180 degrees. You will need a 192 degree thermostat (from ford) so the engine can reach normal operating temperature. From there you can further diagnose other issues. I would check the iac valve and tps sensor.
When i did my tune up,I put a 160 thermostat that the auto parts store said went to it.
And the iac and tps were charged out and map sensor, ignition control, egr,egr tube,egr sensor as well
@@TheFixTech I did put a 160 thermostat that the auto parts store said went to it and tps, Inc, egr valve, sensor and tube,ignition module also
@@mendozaconsultationYou will have to pull codes from the ecm, obd 1 port. There are two tests that should be run, key on engine off, and key on engine running. Problem is these tests will only be accurate once the engine is at normal operating temp, 190 degrees. Auto parts stores offer thermostats in various temps, 160 is too low for these trucks and will make diagnoses hard. Replacements tps should be adjusted to .9-1.1 volts. I would start with a new thermostat, o2 sensor, then run to operating temps and pull codes, the ecm will store codes even if the check engine light is off.
@@mendozaconsultation Also, make sure you installed the correct ignition control module. If you have the remote mounted module (located on the inner driver fender) then you will need the gray module, not black. Once you have the truck at normal operating temp, check the timing with a timing light, make sure the spout connector is unplugged for timing check. Also make sure the spout connector is plugged in when done, make sure the spout connector while plugged in is making good contact with the plug.
This is a comment that I left on a Bronco page. Would you mind telling me if this sounds like it’s related to the ignition module?
“Looking for input-
Bronco wouldn’t start up- this hasn’t happened before. Initially, I got all of the normal lights on the dash and the stereo started playing. When I tried to crank her up, she instantly died out and all of the lights shut off. So, I tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it. That’s all that it took to get things right-She turned and cranked right up. I’m thinking that it could be related to the ignition module. Any other ideas?”
Sounds like a bad ground cable, battery posts need cleaning and or starter solenoid ( located near the battery on the fender wall) needs replacement.
What kind of socket was used for the ignition module removal. Since a regular socket can't fit in the narrow whole
it is a 2.5mm or 3mm hex
Honestly I drilled it out until a socket fit, the new sensor had enough room.
I have 1995 F150 5.0 the truck will shut off while driving or idling will crank and no spark on the plugs, let sit for a while a turns on and works fine for couple of days then it will do the same.Replaced the fuel pump twice PCM and ignition coil and still does the same thing. No check engine lights comes on. Any suggestions?
Replace the ecm and fuel pump relays. I had a similar issue and the relays caused intermittent loss of spark and/or fuel. Also check and replace the ignition module (make sure to replace with correct part). The ignition pickup coil (located inside the distributor) is also a common failure point. Check and replace if necessary.
@@TheFixTech thanks for the info will do and repost what happens!!
NICE work. You differentiate between a fender mounted ignition module, and a distributor mounted one, but you have both. What up with that?
Aside. I made a very foolish mistake in not memorizing my wiring setup while replacing a fender mounted solenoid switch on my f150, 1991 4.9l 6 cylinder. The one large post has only the starter wire come off of it. The other post has the POSITIVE battery terminal along with 3 fusible link wires. An extra fusible link wire was, if my memory serves correctly, just a lone wolf not connected to anything.
I reckon I made the big mistake when I added this wire to the others on the POSITIVE terminal post . The vehicle cranks but will not start. I tested for power to the coil and it was without power. Then I put a bypass wire from the POSITIVE battery terminal to the POSITIVE terminal of the low voltage supply of the coil, and no start situation. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I have two trucks. Check for 12v power at your ignition control module, it is the same wire powering the coil. This wire receives power from the ignition switch. Check for breaks in the wire, fuses and the ignition switch itself. Hope this helps.
@@TheFixTech Thanks for responding. A further testing for POWER @ the ignition module proved a positive test. In today's POSITIVE result l noted after turning the ignition switch on that the cluster lights, ie. battery, brakes, check engine, were not on and immediately thought " that's it" !!! . Last time I failed to realize that the ignition is only " on" when the cluster lights are on, and so l moved the switch that much more until the cluster lights came on and sure enough got a positive signal.
Then thinking " fuel pump " l took a section of plastic hose, put one into the fuel tank, and with the other in my ear listened for activation as l turned the ignition to the on position, and heard nothing. What next? Fuel pump relay switch? How to test for it?
@@steadyeddy6526 if the fuel pump is not primming, check the wiring pigtail on top of the fuel tank. It is very common to erode. You can also check for power, if power is available but no fuel in the fuel rails, then faulty fuel pump.
@@TheFixTech It's an interesting challenge. It is like being in a maze of possibilities and outcomes. You just have to learn to learn and persevere, always following the next lead. Thanks again.
Did you purchased the ignition Module directly from motorcraft?
I have a 94 ford and bought the part after market and the idle it’s very poor.
Thanks
For these trucks it is best to use Motorcraft or Ford ignition parts, be sure to use the correct one for your year as Ford made differences between years
So mines a 95 5.8 and mines Grey will that cause a random stall issue if I don't have the black one
It can be an issue since the black one is the correct model for your truck. Also check your fuel filter and iac valve.
@@TheFixTech when up at parts house and grabbed a black one and had old one bench tested and black one helped alott actually able to go down road without it cutting off thanks man
i have a 1991 f150 with a swap motor from i believe is mustang 5.0 . and it has misfires .could this be the issue.?
Check spark plug wiring and timing. Was the original engine a 5.8 or 5.0? They have different firing orders that year. Is the computer and harness original to the truck or swapped with engine?
Never heard there was a difference in control modules. Jusst put one on my 95 bronco 351 and it was grey. So it's wrong?
If it is a motorcraft or Ford module then yes, I can’t speak for aftermarket modules. The incorrect module may work but you will have a slight misfire and or sluggish startup
@@TheFixTech mine is aftermarket...
Truck was not misfiring before I replaced this, I replaced the icm truck starts and idels great but misfires when reved between 1500-2500 rpm. All my markings line up perfectly
My 93 bronco starts up fine but once it is warmed up and I shut it off for 20 minutes when I go to fire it up again it is hesitant to start and runs rough. Could this be my distributor ignition coil overheating? I also already replaced the ignition coil.
Check fuel pressure, couple be a bad fuel pump check valve. Also check for proper egr function, if egr valve is stuck open it can cause these symptoms
@@TheFixTech will do thx.
@@TheFixTech is egr valve components connected to the smog pump? I gutted smog pump it was making terrible noise and also previous owner took out egr tube which goes to exhaust snd deleted cats.
I drive a 95 f150 with a 5.0/302 and I have a random hard start when starting after sitting over night.. cylinders flood with gas anyways my ICM is gray and every part store says my truck should use DY-1284 not DY-1077 as you say.. the icm i have right now is gray with a sticker from napa
You need the black one, I had the exact same problem. The part stores only know so much, I found the correct information in the ford service manual.
@@TheFixTech I'll have to check that out, I'm short on cash so $80 is a big gamble right now. I have 2 videos uploaded showing my truck start normally and another of it starting and dying if you'd like to take a look
@@TheFixTech so I ended up finding a black icm at a junkyard for $20, it cleared my 212 dtc code but my start and stall problem persists
On the black and gray subject, I also have a 95 f150 and it has a gray module and never had an issue with it till recently. I have a misfire after warm up. Replaced icm gray,maf,o2,tps,coolant temp sensor and no luck
I know this is a year old but if it's actually flooding with gas I would start by changing the fuel pressure regulator. Otherwise I have no idea.
I have heard that the 5.8 351 windsor is a good towing engine?
It can be, but keep in mind these are old engines that will likely need a rebuild if they haven’t been properly maintained. The best engine for towing for these year trucks (1980-1997) is the 7.3L turbo diesel found in 93-up trucks, then the 460 gas (poor gas mileage) then the 351 5.8L. The 5.8L if maintained properly and with some minor upgrades, can easily tow up to 7000lbs
@@TheFixTechI have a 96 5.8L.
What kind of upgrades do you recommend for towing that much? Thanks
Mine is hard to start after sitting all day/ all night but as soon as it starts it will start back up could this be it?
Sound like a fuel issue, check for fuel pressure, could be pressure regulator and or fuel pump check valve. Also check iac valve.
My 1995 f150 has a gray ICM- uh oh. It’s been ran like that for years tho. Could that be a cause of hard starts?
Yes, that was exactly the problem with mine. You’ll even have a slight miss at idle, poor gas mileage
@@TheFixTech I had decent mileage and it even ran pretty smooth when everything else was in good working order. The biggest issue I had was extremely hard starts randomly. I just got a black one from motorcraft installed, hoping this is the fix
@@gabe5360did this work?
@@dirtyeric2 so far so good! Starts way easier now, I also adjusted timing
I have an 88 f-150. My truck is doing the exact thing you described.Did the ignition module solve your problem?
Yes, it solved my issue. Be sure to use the correct part for your year
if your having a hard time finind that bit just sand down a 5.5 thats a little wider
i tried to change mine and got the black one for my 96 f150 5.0 4x4 and it didnt work it ran like garbage put the old one in and it runs great until that module warms up...im stumped why the replacements dont work
Is the replacement block module an original motorcraft? Check engine timing and try to pull any OBD codes.
@@TheFixTech no it wasnt but i had to buy the performace one...stlli have a intermediant no spark ...im thinking the pickup coil...160,000 miles....a distributer is only 129 bucks but not sure if i want to do it...havent done that for like 20 years...lol
Will the tfi keep the fuel pump from priming up?
No, the fuel pump is on a separate circuit. Check your fuses, relays, and wiring. Very common problem on older broncos is the wiring at the gas tank erodes.
@@TheFixTech i was reading that the icm and pip sensor could be some reasons that my fuel pump isnt priming and sending fuel i even replaced the 4 pin connector for the sender and im still not getting voltage all my relays and fuses are getting voltage though ive been trying to figure this out for days you think you might have any input?
you may have a short
@@chrisguy8698 check fuses and relays and the wires they plug into. Sometimes they break just under the fuse box.
Does the module come with the thermal paste
Sometimes, most times no. I used artic silver
My 96 f 150 has the module on the fender left side
Do you still have the cobra?
Yes I do, am wrapping up a head gasket job on it and will upload a video soon.
What camera? So CLEAR!!
Canon g7x mark 3
Be sure you install the correct parts, you dont want to have to do the same job twice.
I was having problem with my 96 already heard honey what you need I don’t wanna hear anymore
I had a 93 f150 that ate ICM's for breakfast. It was eating them every few hundred miles by the end. I sold the truck. Never could figure out what or why. Was probably bad ECM or wire harness.
On oreially website for 95 f150 5.0 the Motorcraft one is gray not black
The correct one for the 1995 is the black one. All auto parts stores have incorrect info regarding this particular part.
@@TheFixTechso Every parts dealer is wrong about this then how did you find out which one was correct if every parts dealer is wrong. And my 95 is in the shop right now and I replaced mine on the fender well awhile back but I'm pretty sure it has the gray one
mine was over heating someone put silicone on the heat transfer area.
Mine is a really bad hard start, Crappy idle and stalls. 1990 4.9 bronco.
Check the iac valve, and check for vacuum leaks.
More iften than not the high pressure fuel pump shorts out internal ...will not start when hot...if it starts cold thats where ya look
U make this way harder than it has to be tdc is so easy on a ford...pull number 1 plug...stick a screw driver in the cylander and manually turn engine kver till the piston hits the top ...look at your timing mark...pull the djstributor.. u need to time it when ur done anyhow now u know the fastest abd best way
I have an 88 F150 5L EFI. I didn't take off and disassemble the distributor to replace the ignition module and pickup coil. I don't see any reason to. Just do it on the truck. Your point on the thermal paste is very true there which is why I've had to do it twice. Also the 'OEM' IM aren't OEM any more even marked as such so they do suck a bit. Might as well assume its time to check timing any time you do something like this, particularly if the timing chain is old.
That’s what happen to me my truck stop on me but it starts back up after I let it sit for a minute
I just installed the black one and I'm having misfire
What year is your truck?
94 5.0
I think these were in the years the ozone layer was bad the mid 80's and Ford got too much sun and went a little senile. Who designed this mess?
The thermal paste has to be smeared across the complete heat sink surface, not like a snake like you did . The paste is supposed to maximize the conduction between the surfaces, by eliminating the microscopic air gap. The way you did it created an air gap.
Do not recommend putting something down the shaft and banging on it. Did the same thing he did and crack the shit out of my shaft
Where did you get a replacement
@@michaelstoutjr.8748 rock auto for like $200
yep using a press is ideal. Definitely don't hit your distributor gear with a hammer. The cast ones especially are very brittle.
You know you can just buy a distributor ass’y that comes with the pickup coil, new rotor and cap for about the same money
True, this was done to show that it can be done and with factory ford parts.
Where you believe you had it.... Be sure of yourself
And if you do all that and that doesn't fix it it's your ecm facts are a wire problem or a relay
I hate these things
They are not so bad if you can find the correct parts, try to find nos motorcraft parts. What year is your truck? Do you have the distributor mounted or remote mounted? Auto parts stores do not have correct info regarding this things.