1987 F150 Steps To Check Ignition Control Module.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2022
- I was having some trouble starting "Old Blue." I decided to check the
ICM. Here is how I went about it! Thumbs Up me if you find anything
of help. Thanks!
Shop for tools and parts I use...
www.amazon.com/shop/carstruck...
*Disclaimer..."I am in the Amazon Affiliate program as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases"...
Note: My sales commission does not increase the items price. 
Авто/Мото
![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6UPe5f1s2ak/mqdefault.jpg)
![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](/img/tr.png)
Absolutely amazing video brother, I am so grateful to have stumbled upon this! My F150 is a 96 but has the identical ICM mounted on the driver fender-wall, so I know these tests are compatible with my truck, too. You just saved me so much aggravation, as well as wasted money on perhaps needlessly replacing the distributor and ignition coil! THANK YOU!
Thanks and remember it makes good sense to carry a spare one of these.
@@SteveAZ711 I’m definitely learning this the hard way video helped me out big time thank you
Hello How did you test it. I have a 1996 but the model doesn't have those 3 prongs. Thanks
This was very well done and easy to follow. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
You fixed my truck!!!!! Thank you
Great to hear!
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Welcome. Thanks!
This is amazingly done. I'm hoping the 5.8 I'm helping my brother work on is the same one.
Glad to have helped. Thanks!
Great job thank you
Thanks for watching!
Exactly what you did!
Thanks!
best how to i have seen this is a KEEPER
Thank you!
Wow! Thank you so much for this video! You did an amazing job explaining all this. Are you a teacher? I'm working on getting my 1984 Ford LTD Crown Victoria running and I'm going to definitely ty this to check the ignition control module. Thanks!
PS. Do you know how to get an injector out of a CFI Ford carburetor? Does it just pull out? Appreciate the help!
Glad it was helpful! Check this link...www.allfordmustangs.com/threads/1984-302-how-to-replace-the-injectors-in-the-tbi.334908/
Thanks
Welcome
my 86 it always has trouble starting, I have to step on the gas pedal ,. will try this ... thanks a lot
Your fuel injectors may be weak or clogged as well.
Great video! Did you have to pull the distributor out to remove the icm?
No I did not have to pull the distributor. I did turn it though, and reset the timing afterwards. I used a 1/4 in deep well socket to get to the screws. They can be a pain as some 1/4 sockets will not fit down into the screw hole.
Thanks!
If you still have the old one, you should break it open and see if you can see a burned out lead.
great video. what size are the machine screws holding this onto the distributor? I want to try to replace mine without removing the distributor. There is room between the firewall and distributor to get in there but none of my sockets seem to fit or maybe they don't reach down that deep. Would a deep socket be needed? BTW I have a 2.9L 1988 Ranger
Seems like I used a 7mm or 8mm socket to get these loose. I believe it was a tapered end deep well socket as well. I did not have to pull the distributor.
@@SteveAZ711 7/32” got the job done. You were right, needed a tapered socket. Thanks for the help and the video.
Yep, 7/32“ . There is precious little room to insert the socket (need a thin wall socket for sure)
I found your video while searching for TFI testing for an ‘88 Ford Escort 1.9L 4-cyl. Ford used this same TFI on Escort until ‘92. Where did you find your test 'values'?
I think it was Haynes or Chilton's Manuals. Thanks!
What size is the bolt that hold the distributor to the block? And do you know if I can just use a crows foot to get the bolt off so that I can rotate but not remove the distributor? I am trying to replace just the module itself.
A 1/2 in. open wrench fits the head (albeit a bit loose) but sufficient to serve its purpose. I never tried a crows foot, but it should work. A small box end 1/2 in. wrench fit my '87 as well.
@@SteveAZ711 Bought a set of 'distributor wrenches' for a few bucks at the auto store. The 1/2" did the trick nicely with the help of your video. Thank you!
I hope I can get some feed back lol this is a older post but when I did my ground to ignition ground I got zeros across the the board is it bad? Even tho it’s below 5?
It should read something other than 0.00. Make sure your meter is set to read a small number...not 2k ohms.
Awesome video. One day, I was coming home from work, and I stalled my truck, pulling out on a hill. I tried to start it, but it wouldn't go. Once I got it home, I tested for spark, and I didn't have any. So I got a new tfi module, and it since then, my truck has had a stutter/hesitation when accelerating and pulling up hills . I did your test on both the new and old tfi modules, and they both tested good, but when I put on the old one, I get no spark. Am I missing something?
Your new module is probably good. The old one may be bad, but needs to get warm to show that. Sometimes they test good and the truck will run for a bit and die. If you have access to a wrecking yard grab a stock module and switch it with the new module or get a different new module. Like I said I think the new one is good though.
I think you have a fuel issue under load. I know, that it only seems that it showed up after changing the module. However, missing under load usually is lack of fuel...worn or clogged injectors, fuel filter, and the main culprit is the fuel pump. The fuel pump will allow you go a ways, quit (like you lost spark) then cool down and let you drive some more before quitting(sometimes), just like a bad module. Do a fuel pressure check and if bad change the filter and see if it gets any better. Oh, and make sure the rotor, cap, and wires are all good. I hope this helps.
@@SteveAZ711 Thank you, this helped point me in the right direction. A fuel issue makes sense as I don't get a CEL (it did come on once last week but was only on for a few minutes). The cap, rotor, plugs, and wires are all new as are the fuel pumps and filter. I will check them out though to make sure. And now that I think about it, I had an exhaust leak (the muffler was about to fall off) because the clamp was loose, all around that area was black. I would think that it's running too rich would it not?
89 f250 5.0 ground and pip test #3 is reading 1050 and doesn't stop climbing 1200 and still going, connections are good could this fail it ? Everything else tested good
These modules fail do to heat. I would not trust anything reading that doesn't fall between set parameters. I cannot say that this would actually cause the problem.
What can you substitute the grease you used for your modules
I have used heat sink compound for a computer processor.
Question my 85 EFI 5.0 will only turn on when I pin ground to the top pip out wire..???
I really do not know. Sorry I can not be of any help here.
@@SteveAZ711 thank you, great video. I just got another harness and see if this one will work. Other option is going carburetor.
What kind symptoms was your truck having when you decided to check the module?
It would idle a bit then die. Eventually found the issue to be bad injectors. I put some rebuilt ones in and it solved the problem. All the cleaning of the old injectors (previous video) was of little use.
Does that mean the module was probably Ok. I just bought a new module and pip pwr & tfi pwr read 3.4 K ohms. 🥺 I'm thinking they sold me a bad module!!!
🌙🌤🌛🌞🌛🌦
It's a couple days later and I got a chance to bench check both modules the new one checks out OK 😅.
The old one checks ok with all 5 resistance test but proves faulty in bench test.
funniest intro!
I had a truck just like that. Really!
should i replace mine if test 4 reads zero ohms or dl
Set your meter to a lower scale and see if there is some kind of reading. 0 ohms is less than 5 but It could also mean that the module is open on that circuit. It doesn't hurt to carry a spare module so personally I would find another module maybe a new one or a used one at a parts yard.
And new one reads 2681 test #3 seams high
If you have a known good module then I suggest substitution. Even if you do not need a new module, a spare one of these is good to have when you do need one. These modules do go bad and Ford started mounting them to the left fender for better cooling along with redesigning them in future models.
@@SteveAZ711 my test #3 reads 25.6. Definitely above 500 but seams really high, any ideas? Update: that was my problem, I put a new one in and it's running great.
i have a 1989 f250 351w 4e0d trans just installed a new icm, distributer, ignition coil, timed truck with spout out to 10 BTDC RAN BEAUTIFUL 500 rpm no stutter nothing put spout back in restarted truck ran barely ran misfiring backfiring? i got it now to start with the spout in itll idle but surges and if i try to drive it the surge is unreal 1500rpm-500-700-1500rpms just bounces any throttle applied im thinking the new icm is bad or my ECM has the bad capacitors
Check fuel pressure and injectors.
@@SteveAZ711 even though it runs perfect without spout in, i assumed i was getting fuel because it runs fine without spout
@@AntiMaxer
If you're looking at it doing fine with spout out, then you likely have a pickup issue.
@@kairu_aname all this was tested ended up being the Original dizzy had some wire come loose inside of it the second Dizzy had the wrong shaft which became magnetized and now onto the 3rd one trucks fixed runs fine full list on parts and what i replaced and tested are on my channel
@@AntiMaxer
Good job.
I just put my two cents in there because I've seen where some cars will run fine with the spout out, and some will run fine with the spout AND the alternator control out.
Tough to diagnose if you haven't seen something like it before.
Can i hot just hot wire it!!!??? arrr I hate these
Gm had their own version as well. An old impala stranded me once back in the 90's.