How to test an ignition coil/module with a test light (distributor ignition) - GM
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2014
- The tests shown in this video can be used on most ignition coils with the exception of the 3 and 4 wire coil over plug systems. #nospark
When you have no spark from an ignition coil, you must first test for "control" (the switching on and off of the coil). There are multiple ways to do this. I show two methods in this video. One is using a basic test light and two is using a scope and low amp probe. Finally, I show how to perform a resistance test on the coil itself, using an ohmmeter.
Visit my website, www.scannerdanner.com for more about my eBook and lectures.
Visit our school www.rosedaletech.org, to be part of my class in person.
Visit / @scannerdannerpremium if you would like to be part of my on-line class.
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdanner.com/join-sc... There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC. 
Авто/Мото
As a mechanic myself for about 50 years I can’t remember everything but that was the information I needed to fix the truck I needed to fix. Thank you.
It's videos like these that confirm I'm not a mechanic. I'm a parts changer.
😂😂😂
Literally how I feel Everytime I’m watching a scanner dan video 😩😩
Best part is this is one of those iykyk things. I’m here from a forum and this is very forum
Thank you scanner Danner I know this video is old but it just helped me school my hard headed boss on a truck with a messed up pickup causing a no spark no injector pulse situation. Don't get to deal with this old school stuff often but it helps to have the videos and know come of the basics.
Great Job! You should take a lot of pride in how careful you are to teach us all so well. I really appreciate you and your channel.
Thank you for your video, my truck broke down on the highway on my way to work, fuel pump worked so I didn't know what check first until I saw your video. You explained everything very well. You saved me a lot of trouble shooting time. Thank you.
Same thing happened to me in the weekend 😅 here for the same reason, this guy has good videos
I love seeing a scope in action ,thanks for video !
Paul, thanks for this nice video.I have a question when having crank no start , what will be a average spark kv minimum you are looking for? or varies vehicle to vehicle. I was wondering because I had 00 4.3 Silverado can jump during cranking 30kv good bright known good . also a had no start 00 civic was jumping barley 25 kv at distributor cap ,had new distributor when I started doing my testing however old wires and plugs. I thought it was too weak I also hook up the lab scope but I got lost there because I am not good on the secondary side of it. I replace the wires and plugs and started fine I at beginning I thougth 25 kv was weak spark any advises to help me in future diagnosis thank you are the man
Excellent testing procedure. Great video tutorial mate. Interesting that you confirmed in the end about the secondary short.
LearningZone I know, first glance I said shorted primary winding for sure. Then when I thought about it, a shorted primary winding can lead to a no flicker result when using the test light. It is the one variable that makes the test light test inaccurate. This is what made me want to redo the test and look more closely.
I have a 95 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 where i had power to my ignition coil and no ground on my driver wire. Any advise would be appreciated.
Thank you for info. Have 91 camaro conv that ran great than after not being used often it would not want to start next time started and ran fine now it does not have spark on no 1. You helped me save alot of time
Hi i have a vw golf mk2 gti, it dies when driving, shakes a lot and seems like it has lost its power quite a bit and the headlights are diming at night. Culd it be the ignition coil?
Having the same no spark issue on my 1988 350 gmc carburated engine. Simple test/solution?
Thanks man this was a great help! Got a free 91 Chevy 5.7 truck (366,000 miles) and I think the only issue may be the ignition coil as I've checked all other main elements plus the spark wires (no spark from at least one of them).
Thank you for the film. Pls could't you tell where is the Ignition
Control Module is located on 2001 Saturn SL2. Also I removed one on 2003
Chevrolet Cavalier and there is some red stuff on the small mounting
bolts for that module. Could it be the red thread locker?
You really did all of this BY THE BOOK. Read all of this in my manual. But its good to see it in practice, Thank You!
They are my techniques, so it would make sense that, that is whats in my book. Nice to see you recognize that! Thank you!!
@@ScannerDanner Even better. Subbed
Hi SD
i have a problem getting 12 volts to my coil
[i have replaced cam, crank sensors & new coil confirmed relays are in good condition; had the computer completely refurbished, all fuses are good. I have studied your You Tube post on ignition system design operation; troubleshoot a no spark condition and others.
I need a direction to try; car is a 1998 volvo 2.4 non turbo , one coil.
i don't have funds to buy wave form scanner, i cannot get 5 v France voltage;
please help.
H. Morris
Note , I see the MSD coil. I have the same set up and use Msd, 6A, wires, and coil. E 3 spark plugs, change cap and rotor pretty often. Went thru a spell of changing the cheap after market Chinese distributor modules. But on a recent trip, the MSD coil failed on the road.No warranty as after 1 year since time of purchase. I had a new stock coil in the truck ( with spare dist.modules ) and have replaced the coil again with a new MSD COIL, BUT IS THIS A MSD problem? Never had a stock coil quit. BTW, went to the Holley or Accell dist modules, no problems.
I went to buy a test light for this purpose and this is what the seller told me ?..
"This is a standard test light. When clip is connected to grounrd ... and point is connected To 12v + pos. It will light the light. No grd indicator. It is a hd light. We use ours in trailer shop every day."
Djk950
"If the module being tested is sending a + plus this tester will read it but you cannot get pulse width or elaps time. The tester will only turn on and off with the pulse. I would not use this to test ground signals on any type of control module such as your ICU or ECU. If you want to check pulse + or - properly and safely I would check out a Power Prob that has an isolated ground terminal. This will be the safest way to keep any power surges from going through your control modular and causing damage." Please help with your opinion... Thanks again
On the ignition coil connector I'm only getting power from the pink wire on the grey connector. Is the black connector pink supposed to be hot also? 93 chevy 5.7.
I missed the explanation of what or how the pulsing occurs without the distributor interrupting the circuit. Is the PCM/ECM pulse driving the coil ground?
Also when replacing the coil pack it has two pins pressed in to hold it to the bracket instead of drilling I used two good punches and was able to punch the pins right out in one or two minutes instead of drilling it out. I spray it with PB Blaster or WD-40 and then start the punch and give it another quick spray half way through and the pins will just start to fall apart and it'll come right out of the bracket. I did have a drill ready if I needed it but the punch and a hammer did the trick. Just a tip to anyone looking for ways to get those "rivet pins" out. Good Luck.
Danner!! My car's broke down in the bar parking lot. No spark. Had a new coil and put it in. Still no spark,and no test light. Module?
Hey Dan quick question I have 1999 S10 cranks no spark condition I tried everything spark related I put in used computer it fired up seemed like a wire was off now I tried again no spark again??? Any ideas??thanks alot
So at 1:21 those two plugs that go into the coil, my yellow wire the plug is not plugged into anything? I cannot find anything remotely close that it would plug into does anybody know if that is just a ground or is it something else? Got to get this thing running again
Having issue on 1999 vortex 5.7. I keep blowing out ignition coils what could be doing that??
Loved this one keep up the good work
Great video! Very informative and very helpful.
SssŽSff
Hope not to late for help?? Neg wire White and red Pos?? That comes from Ing Mod?? So if light goes on and off coil ok? Also can I check pick up coil with out removing dist ?? Thank you in advance
I love your videos and how you break everything down and how your doing everything and what it's for. I have a question what is the cooler for that the ICM is bolted to on a 94 Ford ranger 3.0
Can starter draw more voltage to cause no spark to ignition coil?
I had a 96 Chevy 1500 truck 4x4 5.7 V-8... crank no start it would kind of shudder or slightly start but not run smooth then just crank but would not start. Replaced the cap and rotor along with ignition coil pack and it started right up and runs great now. I didn't just throw parts at it though i did about 2 hours of checking fuel pump, fuel relay, pressure at fuel rail and it all checked out. Next tested spark it was there but faint or weak not much flash in my tool tester. Pulled the cap and rotor and had a burn hole in the rotor so I knew I was on the right track. Replaced ignition coil and cap and rotor and its fixed. Hope this helps someone with my symptoms!!
Thank you, my truck has the same symptoms as you described, fuel is good, spark somewhat ok but no start. Gonna check those other things.
My name is sayar Khan from Pakistan I am auto cars electrician I solve your problem 03329028717
Did you have your test light hooked to ground when testing both coil + & - or did you switch to (B) + when testing coil -?
test light to ground for both tests
Just in case of an inadvertent air gap and subsequent spark occurring at the battery. Safety is all. Don't want to blow up the battery
@@ScannerDanner New cam/crank sensors with 12v & ground to the connections.. new coil doesn't throw any spark, what could be the problem?
During coil negative control testing with the test light, was the test light connected to battery positive? Thanks Paul
Battery negative. Sorry I didn't mention that in the video. Why is the test light so bright on coil negative you may ask? Answer: (short answer) low ohm coil, high ohm light
ScannerDanner Premium How about testing coil positive control testing .Where do you connect the test light? battery positive or negative? Thanks
Negative
Fantastic stuff Paul.. Thanks Bud 😎👍
Is there a fused ground that comes out of the coil bolted to the motor below the coil
Great Vid. Just had the same issue on a newer 4.3 yesterday.
On a 98 witch pin from the ECU goes to the coil
Thank you that was a very helpful video
I have the same 90 pickup mines not getting spark to the ignition coil. I thought it could be the pickup coil in the distributor or the ignition switch. It was running great stalled. I’m going to have someone turn the key while I look to see if the distributor is spinning I have a 305 tbi so not sure what it could be I know there’s no crank position sensor and I don’t think it would be cranking if the ignition switch was bad. Please help
Did you figure it out?
I have a 2004 Grand Prix GT with 276,921 miles. I have bought it brand new and have bought other cars but I used it for short-distance traveling. Nothing major has happened to it over years besides normal preventative maintenance issues. However the last few yrs have been the most active on replacing parts.
I have had to replace my ac resistor module 5 times, blower motor wheel 4 times and the water pump 4 times. Most recently I had to use JB weld to fix a cracked radiator because apparently the fans wasn't turning on correctly and I have a coolant leak somewhere. That caused the car to run hot with must affected the small crack in the radiator.
In the past week, I have noticed the car not starting until the 3rd turn or when i press the gas pedal. It started only doing it in the mornings and would be fine throughout the day. Now it does it every morning and all day.
I have heard things like cleaning the Mass Air Flow, replacing Fuel Filter, replacing Crack Sensor, replacing Air Filter, Tune Up (which I did already), Relays, Ignition Switch, Starter the Cam Sensor.
I have kept my car up to date with parts but I just dont want to go buying all these parts for nothing. Does anyone have some advice or similar concerns on their 3800 engine or grand prix. (please help)
i have a 2002 grand prix but with 3.1 engine. it would overheat alot - mainly in hot weather' but really anytime+i had my coolant temp sensor changed and it stopped the overheating issue. i think the cts also controls fans too. have you changed this sensor? also have you checked fuel pressure regulator. if bad the vacume line to it may have fuel inside. i ran vacume gadge into my car from a long vacume hose attached to manifold. 3.8 may have one built inside+ those are helpful also when you study the needle. clean injectors and all sensors possible+ i wipe m.a.f. hot wire with alcohol pad gently and spray screen. check map sensor is my next task +i read it can cause starting issues. im gonna have mechanic do it cause ive read if changed map sensor other things need changed and ive not studied it enough to be comfortable. use correct octane for gas. also i use startron fuel treatment -ethanol neutralizer- it helps mine start faster or it says? also cold start issue can be~ battery~fuel injectors leaking or fuel system issues. check battery connections for corrosion and tightness espessially negative post. check +clean throttle plate. clean pvc valve. just basic stuff that youve probably allready done. i just like these cars and learning on them. i changed my plugs+wires. ac delco irridium are best plugs.+ but 3800 v6 supercharged ( code 1) will use ngk type ptr4b-15* ( gap .060")
i would do a check on engine if it has overheated much for cracked head or gaskets+ just to be safe.
@@charlesdowns1691 thanks but I gave that car away in 2017. Driving a Toyota now. Havent been to a repair shop or auto part store in 5 yrs...
Great video, it help me diagnose a problem I was having.
I have a 1993 Chevy 4×4 pickup truck Cheyenne 1500 model with the JB5 brakes and the first gen 4.3Lt V-6 and I have no spark. On the wiring diagrams it shows the larger pink wire going to the ignition switch and white going to speed control, the other two thinner pink and white go to the distributor and on mine for the larger pink and white I do get power to the pink with ignition on but no ground connection to the large white and on the smaller pink and white that go to the distributor I get no votage at all. I believe that the wires going to the distributor are just signal wires to get spark but looks as if my problem could be no ground from large white wire? Please let me know when you are able to
H3rj4j4
Could a ignition control module on a 2003 4.3 cause a P0300 random misfire? I’m getting that code when the RPM is above 2K driving. I thought about taking the module off and clean then reinstall with new thermal paste behind it.
Most likely plugs and wires with that symptom, though I'm guessing your already replaced them?
Yes. Already replaced plugs and wires. The engine runs fine. Real strong. It’s not a misfire that I can feel. I’ve replaced the crank sensor (with a relearn) and distributor too. I’m going to check for vacuum leak today.
Awesome Video as always ! Paul Do you have a "Link " for you test light that is safe testing on a ICM Module - Coil I want to purchase one like yours... Thank you my friend.
There's plenty of them videos where he proves convenient ional light is safe. Plenty of controversy on subject but I use it all time too.amp draw on regular testlight is low and safe.
@Scannerdanner
yeah the rotor spins wen the motor turns! and yes the distributor came with a new cap and rotor and ignition control module 😞....... this is driving me crazy lol is there anything else that can cause no spark!!!!
+Omar Canales did you do the bypass test? The one I sent you a video on?
Excellent video. Where can you get pin for back probing
www.amazon.com/shop/scannerdanner
Thank you!
thanks for the video . Im having trouble with my 88 chevy truck , I changed Distributor shaft ignition module , also coil still no spark ...
Some voltage measurements would help us here
Good video as usual. I've got a 1990 f150 4.9 liter recently replaced the front tank fuel pump was running good with the slightest miss. Had planned on fuel injection flush. Last week no start. Checked fuel at relief valve shot out strong. Shot starter fluid and fired up. Drove fine. Stopped and started several times. Next day friend brings it home from work and said when he pulled in the driveway put it in park and a few mins later it died. Tested spark on #plug wire with plug in light tester. Sparked 1 time when first cranking then nothing. Tried Next wire. Same thing. 1 spark -nothing. Did this on 4 wires. Checked volts on coil leads. Constant hot with key on one side. Pulse on one terminal when cranking. Used test light on coil to dist cap got steady pulse. No spark from dist to plug. Found bad bulb in tester. Used spark plug I wire grounded to valve cover bolt. No spark.Rotor cap dist cap plug wires and plugs are a few mo the old. Look good on terminals. Rotor turns on dist. Held the rotor to see if the shaft would slip if under stress. Twisted right out of my hand
No play in the shaft up down or side to side. The haynes manuals have actually gotten more useless . They don't cover diagnosing anything. It's all remove and replace parts. Even with the fuel pump getting weak where it wouldn't run I've never seen a check engine light throw a code. It does light when starting but never lit when truck was running so bad it barely idled. Any tips on where to start again would be greatly appreciated.
This video will be more useful on your system ruclips.net/video/llYFDC5-sa0/видео.html Let me know what you find.
@@ScannerDanner thanks so much. I wish you were down south. We could keep you busy. I can't do it all anymore.
Excellent stuff
Exactly.
I like this, thank you so much.
Sorry not too clear w question. R/w wires from ing mod in,under distrib? Again is wht hot and red neg. And if pick up coil is bad do I need to pull dist out? Also is that what you are calling cam timer. If not where to locate,test??? thank you for help. Truck has been sitting for awhile. C/K 3500 Crew cab 1995 454 true gas hog .........
Great video thanks..
I have a 85 gmc pick up 1500 5.0L that just shut off going down the road and hasn't started since it has fuel and what I think is weak fire it's in time if anyone could give me some suggestions would be very appreciated
That looks like a GM HEI / TBI system . I guess those injectors don't go into clear flood mode with the pedal on the floor . That's why you unplugged them . Great lesson .
Great video, helped me to diagnose the problem with my nieces truck. I have a question, would it be safe to use an oscilloscope to check for control signal? Thanks . . .
Depends on your scope. Primary ignition coils can produce upwards of 400v when the field collapses
Hello, so it seems like i have no coil negative on the white wire on my 94 Chevy Blazer 5.7. Can i just directly ground the white wire?
no you cannot, that will not produce a clean enough signal. Do you have injector pulse?
I have a 96 gmc pick up.has crank but no fire..changed plugs and wire and rotor and rotor cap.coil has spark .what can I do to get the Engine to fire over?
check your fuel pressure next
What is the aligator clip portion of the test light connected to? POS battery or NEG battery or grounded to frame? THANKS.
Negative
Any known good ground
I know this is a old video but I have a 97 Nissan Sentra gxe 5speed crank but won't start no spark at spark plug wires but whole distributor assembly is new need your help thanks
External coil or does it live inside of the distributor? Do you have injector pulse?
ScannerDanner when I first noticed it had no spark an no fuel so I hot wire the fuel pump an the pump started running idk I'm lost what could stop both of them at the same time an I replace fuel pump , fuel filter , spark plug wires , whole distributor assembly , crank sensor an still doing same thing
really fine......thank you
Ok so they saing the ligth should keep a contenius ligth or brigth?
The Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info
I've ran into situations where the coil passed the ohm test perfectly and there were controlled switching at the negative side of the coil and still no spark. Still no spark. Cool was still faulty. The ohm test isn't the sure fire way to determine coil condition. It's rare that a bad cool passes the resistance test but it happens.
Mr. Scannerdanner you're awesome!
Im in the middle of troubleshooting a '93 5.7 chevy Silverado. It starts fine. Won't stay idling. Have to pump the throttle to keep it from dying when driving as it wants to stall until I can get to higher RPMs ( approx 2000 on up) in which it does very well and will red line of I let it. It just doesn't want to idle while in gear but will for about 20 sec in park or neutral. When driving in hesitates badly and you can hear the intake "ploomp" like a minor 'backfire' until the desired higher rpms are met to get the truck shifted and gaining some mph but will stall once cruising speed is met. TPS voltage reading starts abt .5v and smoothly increases as throttle is slowly opened. Throttle body has black soot in it now. Has new plugs,wires,cap and rotor. Iam suspecting a weak coil spark and will strengthen as rpm increases as does alternator. Am I on the right track here? What else should I test? I figured it has fuel if the engine will run at high rpms. Btw, I did a resistance test like you did on the good coil with the ground wire on ignition post. I didn't get any reading on my ohmmeter. I did see a testlight spark but it didn't look as robust as yours. Somewhat thin and yellow and blue spark. What about the ignition module in the distributor? Test it? How? No change when unplugging Oxy sensor. And timing is off but doesn't improve when adjusted. I can't set it If engine won't idle. If you don't have time to make a lengthy reply I would appreciate some initial thoughts. Iam pretty good at looking if Iam pointed in good direction. All the vids that show my same symptoms with same engine have a different fix. This vehicle is old but new to me. Don't have any history on it.
Have you found the issue to your truck? I also have issues with the same year and model like yours and can't seem to find the sours. What was yours?
@@denisemoseley9662 not yet. It's my friend's truck. I've already replaced most of the electronic sensors and devices like coil, whole distributor as well. It will throttle nicely. It's getting fuel but It won't idle. You need to throttle it to keep it from dying. Once warmed up you can kind of throttle high and it will run but you can definitely hear a surging that is not caused by the throttle. It's independent. Only two things I haven't checked, and the latter will be the first checked...ECM or, the crankshaft position sensor. That was my first instinct...but, I had to listen to the local "experts" that argued that it wouldn't start at all if it was CPS. I say bullshit, my first failure of any CPS was on a car and it was getting harder to start and sometimes stalls at stop signs. But it was running. I replaced the CPS and it totally fixed problem. I'm a smart guy and vindicate myself often but there are many people among me that seem to have the need to show they're superior to me. I'm not easily impressed so they're just wasting energy and just annoy me. I usually go with their suggestions after mine are dismissed just to prove them wrong without having to run their noses in it.
Amazing content
2008alto hai dustubutar problam ho sakti hai kya
Hey everyone, I have a 92 k2500 5.7 350 TBI. The issue is that after the truck warms up when I put it in drive if I don't have my foot on the gas it will die. It idles great when in park and if I two foot the pedals at stops it runs just fine but as soon as I let off of the gas it will hang around at about 700rpm then within a minute it dies. I've replaced fuel filter, egr, and ICM. The strange thing is it only started after I replaced the faulty ICM. I looked through several of scanners videos but am probably missing something simple or overlooked the correct video. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance everyone.
I have a similar problem with alot of hesitation and stalling on same engine. What did you find out as I noticed no reply? I did a tune up on this new-to-me pickup. No improvement. TPS seems fine. Iam suspecting a weak coil as I've heard that can happen even though one may have spark. Please reply.
Good Evening ScannerDanner 🙏 ✨ take care,have a great day ScannerDanner 👍
Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thank you. Can u show the corvette ICM diagnostic while it’s off the vehicle? It appears mine heats up a great deal and I want to verify it’s bad
The off vehicle tests aren't good imo. The load on them is not the same. Here, watch this one ruclips.net/video/zUHrZTxYBGE/видео.html
Can you do video on non communication from a shorted module ipc abs bcm where one of theses keeps the pcm from communicating
On my radar for sure!
Worked on a 99 s 10 blazer with no communication had to go to module splice pack
I have a 93 f150 4.9L inline 6 cylinder it starts great then i drive it for like 5 minutes and it feels like its running out of gas i turn the key off and start it and it runs great again for 5 or ten minutes any idea what it could be
You'll need to do some tests, fuel pressure, trouble codes? Can't help otherwise
How do i get trouble codes on a 92 ford f150 autozone couldnt do it
Will a bad icm on a 1990 k1500 5.7 cause a no spark no puls in mu injection
It can. But so can the pick-up coil in the dist. And so can a missing power feed or ground to the ICM
If light is dim on distributor what is that a sign of?
Wuld those gm modules work if you aplly positive power from baterry and pulse it with only negative wia pick up coil ore vice versa wuld it still work?
I've been able to trigger these module with a test light to battery positive on and off of the pickup input positive terminal
@@ScannerDanner I did see that testing experiment on google I was wondering wuld I need to put resistor to the positive pulse side and conect baterry power to it ore bridge 2 terminals as shown in that google picture that I found I was wondering wuld the negative pulse terminal do the same thing?
Because I want to use twin gm ignition modules and make cinde of waste spark ignition system I do not have twin trigger coils so I must some how improvise .
I dont know if me singel trigger coil culd handel 2 x 4 pin gm ignition modules.
I want some thing similar like jaguar 2 ignition coils and their gm amplifier only problem how to bypass pulsing problem???
I do have more parts for that car I was wondering if I can use 2 pick up winding and use them in series ore pararel configuration to get corect pulse polarity so I dont fry me ignition modules.
will a vacume gadge help diagnose a bad coil correctly? mine drops 1" or maybe 2" at times. can i trust this also?
I've never used a vacuum gauge to troubleshoot ignition problems
@@ScannerDanner +thank you for reply. i like this video+technique with ignition also.. on my vacume gz+ it normally ready steady 18" normal engine but has been dropping 1" 2" chart says possible ignition issue. ( appreciate it+have a good day )
So if the test light doesn’t flicker that means the coil is good? I have 90 c1500 5.7 at , coil and distributor less than 2 years old, was running fine, then crank no start. No spark at coil.
If the test light doesn't flicker, you need to move away from the coil as the problem and toward the ignition module and distributor pickup coil. I have another video that will help you ruclips.net/video/fra26yyyc-I/видео.html
Great teacher Paul danner
The test pin is really hard to see and was not pointed out, but it works. What tester is being used, just noticed Snap On ouch. Enjoyed the video, Thanks.
I have no spark on my 1986 oldsmobile ciera cutlass 4 cylinders.The secondary is reading 4500 instead of 11000 like this video shows. The test light is solid on positive and it doesn't work at all on negative while cranking the engine. What should I do next ?
Switch your test light to battery positive and tell me if it lights on coil negative. Important though, you MUST have power going to coil positive for this test to be valid.
@@ScannerDanner I switched the test light to battery positive and there is no power there.
I have a 2000 Silverado V6 4.3 I replace the coil I replaced the crank sensor but the coil still not getting not fire I had to control module check they said it was good I I had it checkout than once . please help
It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 80,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there.
Paul Danner (ScannerDanner)
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Michael Barnes check your relays and fuses first if thete all good then check the ignition module if thats all good or your model does not have it then check cam and crank sensors ok .
Hi paul, 2 questions that may sound silly cause im absolute beginner in electric basics...1. how does your testlicht “ survive “ the high voltage?
Second question, i hear u say “ want the spark to go somewhere” does it mean it harms the coil when high voltage has no way out? Sorry for my laymens level...Bob from Belgium Europe
1. The incandescent test light can handle secondary kv because it is very low amperage and the bulb filament simply provides a path. Do NOT try this test with an LED test light!
2. Yes, if the spark has "nowhere to go", that energy builds up in the coil to the maximize level and it will start to look for another path. This can and will damage the coil itself and also the driver for the coil.
@@ScannerDanner thanks mate! Keep safe! Enjoyed yr in depth knowledge and enthusiasm, try to see all of it, what a nice job you do, also contributing to us, over the world, to help us fix our cars! Bless u!
I have a 95 chevy Silverado with a code 12 and 73.do I have to buy distributor do to no pulse to module
Code 12 is a normal flash code. Chase the other code
Good proof of the secondary being shorted
Sir good pm I'm edwin from Philippines I have problem car hyundai elantra 1996 model I replace new ignition coil new camshaft but still doesn't start can I help me how to diagnose the problem thanks
post this to my forum www.scannerdanner.com we can help you there and it is free to join.
Good video but when you turn key on put power to the coil the coil as power good ing to the cap if it rolls over or not there is always power there where in was testing
Great video.
if i have little spark not good from the coil but still wont start and i have fuel what could be the problem ?
It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 80,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there.
Paul Danner (ScannerDanner)
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Thank you sir
Thankfully nice work
ScannerDanner, what would keep a module from advancing, its a 93 350 tbi, new, coolant send, new module, tps, cap, wires, plugs, map works, knock sen. seems to work, when you rev, the timing goes jumps up maybe 5 degrees and comes right back to 0, idle's ok, runs but no power, i thought it was a fuel problem till i checked the timing,
There is a tan/blk wire (that goes to the module) that has a single plug disconnect, on the main harness on the firewall? Make sure it is plugged in. This is your timing connector.
ScannerDanner, yes, it's hooked up, does the egr module control ant timing events? if not i'am gonna have to assume the computer bad!
i have the mt2500 snapon and when i plug it in i don't have power to it, i have to use the 12 volt plug on the side of the gm obd1 modular, all the fuses are good and the cig lighter don't work either! i'am wondering if that 12v comes from the computer or the fuse box, maybe only half the computer is working, the tan\black wire has 4.49 v
12 pin ALDL does not have a power feed, you need the external one for the MT2500 on that model.
Post this to my forum for additional help and make sure you include our exchange here too.
www.scannerdanner.com
Thanks!
Paul
thank you ScannerDanner, i didn't realize the 12 pin had no power, thanks for the help, and i went down and had an emissions done and it passed? i couldn't believe with what little power it had, it passed! i checked the MAP and it worked with a vacuum pump but i think it may be working differently on engine vacuum, cause when you try to accelerate it doesn't want rpm up, and when you slowly let off the throttle and it gets just about at your cruise speed you can feel it wanting to go, kinda like a plugged jet! or letting off the throttle gives the MAP more vacuum, i find it sooner or later! but thanks for the help.
Thanks shared video
thanks for video
Hello. I need some help please. It's a basis old system 1975 Pontiac Catalina 400 cui I was driving about 5-10 mph coming into my apartment parking place and my car stalled out. Try to start it and she started and stalled out tried again and nothing. I pulled the distributor cap everything appeared good I replaced the control module and coil pulled plug's and read them they looked great just some brown all plug's in prospective place has fuel pressure and distributor has power. I really believed the module was the culprit. I tried to start it and same thing. With my daughter bumping the engine over to get the timing mark on harmonic balancer lined up TDC Car has good compression. I believe im really missing something here engine has less than 1000 miles and I was driving it nothing serious like hot roding it and throwing a pushrod or bearing. If it's not electrical it's a basis car fuel air and compression combustion and exhaust. So next would be inspect the timing set but that really puzzles me I build the engine taking my time and 2 months it has a great double roller timing set It would be really hard to jump time. Help Please and Thank you
Do you have spark?
ScannerDanner no.
I cant crank it its misfiring too bad and it wont stay running without my foot on the gas , I changed spark plugs , wires and 1 coil pack because it was supposedly just misfiring on cylinder one , idk what to do ! I need help , idk if it's the ECM or do I have to change the other 7 coil packs, or do I have to buy both and bust my pockets 😔 I know how to install mostly everything just can't figure the problem even with the check engine light reader, it's a 2005 chevy Silverado 1500 4.8, I fixed it it was a broken valve spring
there are too many "could be" issues here. And without the truck in front of me, I'm not sure I can help much.
Intake gaskets, head gasket, injector issues, low fuel pressure, a critical sensor failure etc etc
I fixed it it was a broken valve spring
@@ScannerDanner I fixed it, broken valve spring
That MSD coil might be rated at 3600 ohms on the secondary side. My Accel 300+ CD coil is with 0.3 on the primary side. One thing I just learned was you can test with test gear all day long. Still not got it running. A real test is with engine running under LOAD. Either the coil/module works or not.
Is an incandescent test light safe to use when testing for spark and for coil positive and coil negative on all systems.coil positive should remain bright while coil negative should flicker with test light connected to ground and back probing connector while cranking right ?
+martinguitarhd28 that is correct. The only test I would hesitate to use it on would be on the base circuit of the transistor on the 3-4 wire COPs. I have a video on this. ruclips.net/video/UwQVg0CtkuQ/видео.html
Hey have no power to coil on c10 v6 i can hot wire truck starts up fine help !! Please.new coil
As long as you fed voltage from a place where the key controls you will be just fine. Sound like a broken wire or something. Dont matter where it gets power as long as it gets power
which is the best spark tester to get?
It doesn't really matter. The ones I use are listed on the tools page if my website if you're interested. Thanks!
I was looking at theat lisle one wiht the long ground wire. excellent. It's much cheaper on your page. thx man.
Good vid
THANKS DAN YOUR THE BEST BRO