My 1993 F150 5.0 would fail to start when fully warmed up. After doing a bit of research I just shotgunned the ignition system, replacing the coil, pickup, and ignition module. The coils are prone to leak (mine was), the pickup was 30 years old, and Ford Motorcraft states that the ignition module is tested for a life expectancy of 150k miles or 10 years. Solved all start issues, including a faster cold start than before. A few weeks later while out of town on a road trip, the engine would suddenly jerk as if trying to shut down. Replaced the ECM when I got home. The capacitors are notorious for puking all over the board and reeking havoc. Always use a quality replacement or you will simply build the problem right back in (buy the best and cry once!!). Running this problem down might have been easier for me due to the fact that I was is the auto repair game for 52 years before retiring. With the changes that have occurred in the industry, I really don't miss it at all. These OBS ford trucks are a lot more reliable than any of the new stuff that is produced. They are just getting old, kind of like me😬
Fought this same battle for 3 years before a mechanic friend told me about this distributor pickup coil. Replaced the entire distributor and that fixed the problem.
Ma 1996 Ford E-150 van with a 5.8 ended up with a no start condition. Same thing: needed a new distributor. Bought a cheap one and it ran terrible. Bought an expensive Ford Motorcraft distributor, and it started right up and ran great!
Back in the day I used to have an old core unit a distributor with the PIP sensor and module in place. If one of those babies had crank no start no spark, you'd simply attach the ground wire to the test distributor spin the gear and watch it Spark. Anybody who has ever tried to decipher an old Ford H manual for proper testing knows what I'm talking about here. The factory Diagnostics were such a joke, new training businesses popped up on how to diagnose a Ford, seriously.
Be sure to reinstall crank case breather hose on valve cover behind oil filler ,without it dirt and grit will be sucked in and ruin engine! Connects to air intake hose
same nightmare with me right now. Replaced almost everything but the ecm (assuming its in descent condition because I hear the pumps prime for a few seconds and all the solenoids in the engine bay click and tested fine). I got it to run for a few seconds with some starting fluid but I feel like my problem is something shorted out then a mechanical issue. Im gonna run a pressure test and see what I pull but if I get nowhere with that im raising the white flag and having my mechanic do the diag for me. Fuel system is practically brand new other than the injectors but if thats the problem its gonna be a long day of work to replace those on these 300s.
@@route66restoration was about to take it to a shop. After running a pressure test I knew I wasnt getting fuel and saw a line that looked a little bit kinked so I fixed it. Redid the harness for my high pressure pump and new filter and it started right up! Almost took defeat on that one but luckily its been running fine ever since. I thought I wasnt getting spark the whole time but I just had a bad ground on the distributor the whole time.
@@savage6394 i meant on the spark plug my bad. I didnt have a spark tester handy so i slapped the plug to the frame and didnt see anything. Tried it again and i guess I had a better ground because I was getting spark.
@@kellismith4329 I just got my Map sensor replaced yesterday. The old one tested was bad. It still has a little miss and runs a little rough so the distributor is next. I put some injector cleaner in but I don't think they are the problem. I think you are right about the distributor..
i had a fleet of these trucks and when they had a no start condition i would check spark spark first and if i see no spark i pull off the dist cap and it is always the shaft gear roll pin sheared right off, yep these 4.9L 300cid inline 6 cyl, are world famous for that, shearing off the roll pin that holds the gear on the shaft the turns the rotor and i have done many... sometimes it will shear it a bit and move the timing a bit and look for that too...
Don’t feel bad, my 96 f 150, it would run and do good might run 10 blocks or 30 miles and die, after everything replaced found someone changed out crank pulley and forgot the reader plate with 3 nubs missing on back of crank pulley, not sure how it ran at all without it.
I'm battling this problem on a 1996 4.9 now. Did the harbor freight sparkplug tester show spark? I've replaced everything except the distributor, ECM, coil, and fuel pressure regulator. I even replaced the fuel tank switch. Both pumps are new including fuel filter. The truck was running fine then just shut off. I had to tow it home. I haven't changed the distributor since it shows that I have spark from all the plugs and from the coil to the distributor. The only other thing it might be is the actual ignition key cylinder since it sorta loose. Any advise would be cool appreciated
86 Bronco 5.0 EFI . Fuel, crank but no start. I changed pick up coil, coil,msd distributor cap and module. Everything primes but the on way i got it to run and is sometimes, when I pin ground the top or second tfi module wire on connector.
@@route66restoration I got it to run, was ingnition switch, brown/pink was not making contact. Power into EEC harness comes in red/lt green and white/blue. But on driver fender side one conector transitions to brown/pink to ingnition switch. Got it running went back to sleep for 3 days after that hahaha.
That's one of the best engines Ford ever made 4.9 L 6 cylinder engine, no timing chain, gear to gear, will last a long time if you keep the oil changed. Even the auto transmissions were good E40D last a long time if fluid is changed regularly. I have one, my buddy has one with 560,000 miles and running strong.
I just replaced an ignition control module - from Oreillys - and now it’s back to no-start and stalling while running. I thought about replacing the alternator, however the alternator failure would cause a dead battery I would think. The battery isn’t dead, just doesn’t seem to be getting enough power to make the starter crank through. Any ideas? My ground wire seems to jump a bit when I try to crank it - and the only thing I can think is going to do that is a bad ground. But a starter issue still wouldn’t make the vehicle stall out while running and moving … Any ideas would be appreciated 🙏🏽🙏🏽
Scanner Danner would chastise you for changing parts! But after 30 years it is considered a restoration!😅 I have a new to me '94 that would run but very poorly. Had a bad set of wires and cheap loose fitting cap. Checked plugs and they were very sooted up so new o2 but no effect. Pulled computer and checked capacitors to find them like new. Truck has 96k original miles. Someone has previously changed tps so that was good. Truck seemed to have no power so i drove it down road and got speed up and seemed to run much better at rpm. Checked the ect and it was going backwards when heating. Runs great now.
Hi - having the same issues on my red 1995 F150 XLT 5.8. Can I ask where you got your replacement distributor from? What size engine do you have? Read there’s a color mark on the original distributor that tells if it’s steel - apparently you have to check the color to make sure correct metal is used or can ruin cam
My 96 F150 5.8L has a similar issue. Been going on for months. Wouldn't start. I'd jiggle the coil wire. It would start. Or I had to pop open the Distributor cap and clean contacts... finally, it just wouldn't start. Put a new Cap/ rotor in. Started. Until it didn't. Put in a new coil; started until it didn't. Put in a new Ignition control module. Started right up, for a few days anyway. Now, it won't start. Haven't changed the Distributor yet, or temp sensor. Crazy! I ordered this baby from the factory, in 1995, but it's got me puzzled now...
Verify you have good fuel pressure at thr fuel rail. 45 min for 5.0l, 60 min for 4.9l. Inside the cap there is a plate that has 2 screws holding it on. Remove and look inside the removed shell for corrosion. Mine was rusted. Sand paint and reinstall after blowing the magnetic pickup out w/ brake cleaner. I would also pull computer and open it to make sure no capacitors are leaking.
I have a 86 Ford E150 if anyone can tell me why this va will not run, you i thought were gon g to say something I didn't know about!! But you didn't ,lol so, i replaced everything, my sitributor gear is fine, however I believe i need to have my ECM flashed , im going to call a guy up in the morning and see what he can tell me , hopefully he can flash this for me,, if not, well,, it looks like I'll be making a conversion back to carberator and regular intake, i prefer that anyway!!
It’s not that simple to just convert it to a carbuerator - open up your distributor and see if the rotor spins all the way around you may have a worn cam gear - there is no timing chain in these (6cyl) and the factory used a phenolic aka plastic driven gear on the camshaft for quiet operation it is the achilles heel of these engines. Not a terrible task to replace the gears and you can upgrade them to cast iron, they sound like a tractor engine then but very formidable
Why not plug a reader into the OBDII port under the center of the dash, couldn't hurt! could be something as simple as my dad's 96 4.9L I6 F-150 XL, Crankshaft Position Sensor malfunction. TBF, the 1st year of the OBDII port, its SUPER Slow, took it 3 minutes to connect to my Bluetooth reader.
It is OBDI on those ford trucks I have a OBS 1997 F250-hd 5.8L OBDI plug connector is under the hood on driver's side fender wall. Most reliable vehicle I own. 188K Dual body style year because of the utility bodies did not keep up.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
My 1993 F150 5.0 would fail to start when fully warmed up. After doing a bit of research I just shotgunned the ignition system, replacing the coil, pickup, and ignition module. The coils are prone to leak (mine was), the pickup was 30 years old, and Ford Motorcraft states that the ignition module is tested for a life expectancy of 150k miles or 10 years. Solved all start issues, including a faster cold start than before. A few weeks later while out of town on a road trip, the engine would suddenly jerk as if trying to shut down. Replaced the ECM when I got home. The capacitors are notorious for puking all over the board and reeking havoc. Always use a quality replacement or you will simply build the problem right back in (buy the best and cry once!!). Running this problem down might have been easier for me due to the fact that I was is the auto repair game for 52 years before retiring. With the changes that have occurred in the industry, I really don't miss it at all. These OBS ford trucks are a lot more reliable than any of the new stuff that is produced. They are just getting old, kind of like me😬
Thanks for Sharing!
I know the feeling about getting old man.
Fought this same battle for 3 years before a mechanic friend told me about this distributor pickup coil. Replaced the entire distributor and that fixed the problem.
Ma 1996 Ford E-150 van with a 5.8 ended up with a no start condition. Same thing: needed a new distributor. Bought a cheap one and it ran terrible. Bought an expensive Ford Motorcraft distributor, and it started right up and ran great!
Back in the day I used to have an old core unit a distributor with the PIP sensor and module in place.
If one of those babies had crank no start no spark, you'd simply attach the ground wire to the test distributor spin the gear and watch it Spark.
Anybody who has ever tried to decipher an old Ford H manual for proper testing knows what I'm talking about here.
The factory Diagnostics were such a joke, new training businesses popped up on how to diagnose a Ford, seriously.
So then if it doesn’t spark the issue is in the module?
Be sure to reinstall crank case breather hose on valve cover behind oil filler ,without it dirt and grit will be sucked in and ruin engine! Connects to air intake hose
Thanks man I'm in electric lala land now
good perseverance. you fixed a few things along the way too.
same nightmare with me right now. Replaced almost everything but the ecm (assuming its in descent condition because I hear the pumps prime for a few seconds and all the solenoids in the engine bay click and tested fine). I got it to run for a few seconds with some starting fluid but I feel like my problem is something shorted out then a mechanical issue. Im gonna run a pressure test and see what I pull but if I get nowhere with that im raising the white flag and having my mechanic do the diag for me. Fuel system is practically brand new other than the injectors but if thats the problem its gonna be a long day of work to replace those on these 300s.
Keep on until you get it fixed post your results in the comments all the best!
@@route66restoration was about to take it to a shop. After running a pressure test I knew I wasnt getting fuel and saw a line that looked a little bit kinked so I fixed it. Redid the harness for my high pressure pump and new filter and it started right up! Almost took defeat on that one but luckily its been running fine ever since. I thought I wasnt getting spark the whole time but I just had a bad ground on the distributor the whole time.
@@matthewewbaha1358 I'm confused. You said it was a kinked fuel line but then said it was a bad distributor ground.
@@savage6394 i meant on the spark plug my bad. I didnt have a spark tester handy so i slapped the plug to the frame and didnt see anything. Tried it again and i guess I had a better ground because I was getting spark.
@@matthewewbaha1358sound like you need a new battery
I'm going through the same list. I'm up to the control module. Next thought was the pickup coil. I do not want to pull that distributor...
The distributor is easy peasy to swap in those - just replace the whole assembly it is cheaper than all parts individually
@@kellismith4329 I just got my Map sensor replaced yesterday. The old one tested was bad. It still has a little miss and runs a little rough so the distributor is next. I put some injector cleaner in but I don't think they are the problem. I think you are right about the distributor..
i had a fleet of these trucks and when they had a no start condition i would check spark spark first and if i see no spark i pull off the dist cap and it is always the shaft gear roll pin sheared right off, yep these 4.9L 300cid inline 6 cyl, are world famous for that, shearing off the roll pin that holds the gear on the shaft the turns the rotor and i have done many... sometimes it will shear it a bit and move the timing a bit and look for that too...
Don’t feel bad, my 96 f 150, it would run and do good might run 10 blocks or 30 miles and die, after everything replaced found someone changed out crank pulley and forgot the reader plate with 3 nubs missing on back of crank pulley, not sure how it ran at all without it.
I'm battling this problem on a 1996 4.9 now. Did the harbor freight sparkplug tester show spark? I've replaced everything except the distributor, ECM, coil, and fuel pressure regulator. I even replaced the fuel tank switch. Both pumps are new including fuel filter. The truck was running fine then just shut off. I had to tow it home. I haven't changed the distributor since it shows that I have spark from all the plugs and from the coil to the distributor. The only other thing it might be is the actual ignition key cylinder since it sorta loose. Any advise would be cool appreciated
86 Bronco 5.0 EFI . Fuel, crank but no start. I changed pick up coil, coil,msd distributor cap and module. Everything primes but the on way i got it to run and is sometimes, when I pin ground the top or second tfi module wire on connector.
The odd thing is I reverse pinned my module pickup tested fine per Scanner Danner video. But it still would not run
@@route66restoration I got it to run, was ingnition switch, brown/pink was not making contact. Power into EEC harness comes in red/lt green and white/blue. But on driver fender side one conector transitions to brown/pink to ingnition switch. Got it running went back to sleep for 3 days after that hahaha.
That's one of the best engines Ford ever made 4.9 L 6 cylinder engine, no timing chain, gear to gear, will last a long time if you keep the oil changed. Even the auto transmissions were good E40D last a long time if fluid is changed regularly. I have one, my buddy has one with 560,000 miles and running strong.
At 256k just replace all the bearings and have peace of mind, 4.9l is a great engine.
mine ended up being the clock spring after i went through everything you did lol
I just replaced an ignition control module - from Oreillys - and now it’s back to no-start and stalling while running. I thought about replacing the alternator, however the alternator failure would cause a dead battery I would think. The battery isn’t dead, just doesn’t seem to be getting enough power to make the starter crank through. Any ideas?
My ground wire seems to jump a bit when I try to crank it - and the only thing I can think is going to do that is a bad ground. But a starter issue still wouldn’t make the vehicle stall out while running and moving …
Any ideas would be appreciated 🙏🏽🙏🏽
Good ground is very much needed.
Scanner Danner would chastise you for changing parts! But after 30 years it is considered a restoration!😅 I have a new to me '94 that would run but very poorly. Had a bad set of wires and cheap loose fitting cap. Checked plugs and they were very sooted up so new o2 but no effect. Pulled computer and checked capacitors to find them like new. Truck has 96k original miles. Someone has previously changed tps so that was good. Truck seemed to have no power so i drove it down road and got speed up and seemed to run much better at rpm. Checked the ect and it was going backwards when heating. Runs great now.
Did you have any spark originally
Hi - having the same issues on my red 1995 F150 XLT 5.8. Can I ask where you got your replacement distributor from? What size engine do you have? Read there’s a color mark on the original distributor that tells if it’s steel - apparently you have to check the color to make sure correct metal is used or can ruin cam
Rock Auto. Com is where mine came from. Roller cams bronze gears for racing not sure what stock used other than cast iron
4.9 six cylinder
DA 2061 F2TC 12127-D is the part number for 1996 f 150 4.9. If you have a 1995 this may not be for your truck, Mine was made in 1995 but it’s a 1996,
5.8 is a totally different system than this
My 96 F150 5.8L has a similar issue. Been going on for months. Wouldn't start. I'd jiggle the coil wire. It would start. Or I had to pop open the Distributor cap and clean contacts... finally, it just wouldn't start. Put a new Cap/ rotor in. Started. Until it didn't. Put in a new coil; started until it didn't. Put in a new Ignition control module. Started right up, for a few days anyway. Now, it won't start. Haven't changed the Distributor yet, or temp sensor. Crazy! I ordered this baby from the factory, in 1995, but it's got me puzzled now...
My temp sensor was cracked but still worked fine
Verify you have good fuel pressure at thr fuel rail. 45 min for 5.0l, 60 min for 4.9l. Inside the cap there is a plate that has 2 screws holding it on. Remove and look inside the removed shell for corrosion. Mine was rusted. Sand paint and reinstall after blowing the magnetic pickup out w/ brake cleaner. I would also pull computer and open it to make sure no capacitors are leaking.
Ever get the bouncing speedometer needle and transmission kick/jerk issue at the same time?
I believe the transmission issue is called flaring and can be caused by sticking solenoids in the transmission on EAod if memory serves me correctly.
What problems did your truck have or what symptoms did it have??
My 91 has power but will not crank. Did your motor crank?
Yes my cranked no start or run.
Try jumping solenoid if it cranks the solenoid or ignition switch, or neutral safety switch trouble
Yes it did
I have a 86 Ford E150 if anyone can tell me why this va will not run, you i thought were gon g to say something I didn't know about!! But you didn't ,lol so, i replaced everything, my sitributor gear is fine, however I believe i need to have my ECM flashed , im going to call a guy up in the morning and see what he can tell me , hopefully he can flash this for me,, if not, well,, it looks like I'll be making a conversion back to carberator and regular intake, i prefer that anyway!!
It’s not that simple to just convert it to a carbuerator - open up your distributor and see if the rotor spins all the way around you may have a worn cam gear - there is no timing chain in these (6cyl) and the factory used a phenolic aka plastic driven gear on the camshaft for quiet operation it is the achilles heel of these engines. Not a terrible task to replace the gears and you can upgrade them to cast iron, they sound like a tractor engine then but very formidable
Why not plug a reader into the OBDII port under the center of the dash, couldn't hurt! could be something as simple as my dad's 96 4.9L I6 F-150 XL, Crankshaft Position Sensor malfunction. TBF, the 1st year of the OBDII port, its SUPER Slow, took it 3 minutes to connect to my Bluetooth reader.
It is OBDI on those ford trucks I have a OBS 1997 F250-hd 5.8L OBDI plug connector is under the hood on driver's side fender wall.
Most reliable vehicle I own. 188K
Dual body style year because of the utility bodies did not keep up.
@@mongomay1 the 4.9L F150 got OBD II for it's last year of production only, plug is under the center of the dash
@@Celician83 96 4.9L sitting in my garage currently, it's on the drivers side fender wall as @mongomay1 said
@@garywhite7468 is it an OBDII plug or the weird plug Ford had before OBDII
Did you scan the obd2 and get any codes I'm getting the p0414 and a p0320 code at the moment
Sorry No I have no scanners
Thanks sir..
Then replaced everything past front bumper
This is partially why I said screw this. Carb intake hei dist done