Motorcraft Starter Solenoid SW1951C: **amzn.to/32Yuhqw** Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar If this video has helped you out consider donating to the the channel with Paypal, thanks!: www.paypal.me/ozzstar
So I have a question. I replaced the starter solenoid under the hood. Ive been having problems with getting a rapid clicking sound though and my dash lights go haywire. If I turn the key two many times its like the battery goes dead and nothing happens. The thing is i just had my truck in the shop and they checked my battery and alternator and they were good. So could this be my ignition switch.
I had an intermittent start (click then would grab) for awhile then it just wouldn't start at all, just click. I followed your steps and noticed when I checked between the positive battery and the negative solonoid it would show voltage, but it was fluctuating up and down. Then when I jumped the solonoid it just clicked, no start. I was about to go buy a new solonoid and new starter when logic kicked in and I thought that I must just not be getting enough power. So I started tugging on wires and the positive cables pulled out of the terminal. I took it off and flattened it a bit to be tighter, re-installed and it cranked right up. Saved me alot of time, money, blood, sweat and tears. Thanks.
Symptoms said mine was suspect too. I landed on your video, same make year/model. I think the best advice was just getting the oem replacement. Exact match. Fixed. Thanks, great content!
Yes, I’ve gone through the same thing over the years. One observation is that the negative terminal on the solenoid that you referred to is actually the positive terminal coming from the battery. Where the other terminal will still be positive going down to the starter motor. Great video Glen and should help folks to be aware of inferior parts.
You are absolutely correct Terry! I should have clarified that better and glad you called me out on it. Thank you sir. For anyone who may not understand, the left side solenoid terminal becomes HOT when the solenoid is activated and sends power directly to the starter. The right side terminal is always HOT even with the key in the off position.
@@ozzstars_cars Left terminal Grounding through the starter motor windings -- thus indicating that it was a "ground" with the test light ? A friend had a Land Rover. Starter switch system under the dash kept burning up. Seemed like the ignition switch carried the full starter current. I had had several Fords and suggested he should activate it through a Ford solenoid. I couldn't make him understand what I suggested -- my lack of adequate explanation I think. Thanks for the video.
Awesome video! Kinda rough here and there, but best explanation I've seen after looking at several others. Easy to understand, non-technical. My kinda video! Now...I got some work to do!
@@ozzstars_cars You’re great! I just meant that the slicker RUclips presentations fell short of explaining this. You had phones ringing, dropping tools, etc. Loved every minute of it! Keep up the good work!
Thank you for showing how to test the solenoid. I just tested mine, it's not clicking or doing anything. I was thinking it was the alarm system messed up again. I still want to remove the alarm system because it's an aftermarket piece of junk, sometimes it runs and sometimes it doesn't
dan I get clicks down at the starter when using the screwdriver test against positive and negative. The top portion of the regulator on the fire wall I am interested in. Its purpose etc. I believe a neighbor disconnected things from it.
I'm going through the same thing to on my 2001 ford f-150 xlt 5.4 v8 tritón. I'm going to go ahead and do that, by the way it was a great video and good presentation step by step which that's the correct way to do it, some just show you but some don't explain step by step and taking their time. I really appreciate you showing this video and I'm pretty sure others out there appreciate you to. Thank you
I Appreciate your video I changed mine while watching your video and found a problem that i already had when I bought my truck a few months ago it was wired completely wrong so thanks keep up the good work saved me some money
Thanks for the awesome video. My wifes been having problems with her 1998 F150. Sometimes it'll start sometimes it won't. I tested the solenoid and bam. Problem identified. THANKS!!
FYI, in the old days, the additional post on the aftermarket solenoid was used to send 12 volts to the ignition points, allowing a hotter spark on startups. Thank you for sharing.
@@ozzstars_cars Yes the normal voltage to the coil/ points is through a resistance wire bringing it down to 8 volts or so. The I terminal would send 12 volts to the points while cranking
Today I just went through the same thing you did with the starter solenoid. Ended up with the same "NEW" design that didn't work. Going to order one online now.
I just put on one of those 4-terminal relays today. Relay clicks loudly, but starter doesn't crank very often. Same problem I started with. Now if I jumper the two large copper terminals, the engine cranks every time. The 12VDC to the relay is good as the relay clicks loudly regardless whether the starter cranks or not. So it must be junk. I admit I`ll have to confirm this. Interestingly, the box said Made in China, but the plastic bag inside said Made In Taiwan. Plan is to do more testing and also take my old Ford relay apart, clean the contacts, and then try it. If it works, then I`ll know to buy a new Ford relay. I also noticed that plastic part interfering with getting the heavy cables on. The new relay came with spacers, but they don`t raise the cable away enough.... the plastic is still in the way. I didn`t check, but I think that 4th terminal connects to the coil (+) on older cars. It provides 12VDC during cranking which essentially bypasses the ballast resistor to get max battery voltage to the coil during starting. If that`s the case, DON`T ground it!
Distributor pick up coil could also be an intermittent problem like this. So, if this doesn't work that's the next part I'll buy. Good video ,it helped. Changing out started solenoid tomorrow. Bought the cheap one at auto zone for $24. Hope it works. Didn't want to wait two days for amazon plus spend another 10 or so. My 94 fordE-250, did an intermittent no start, no nothing to me twice already. Third motor, 4.9 ,rebuilt trans once and has 305,000 miles and still going. Owned now for 20 years.
The negative terminal you referred to is actually a positive terminal coming from the battery and the other positive terminal is for going down to the starter motor
The first test you do around 4:45 (positive battery terminal to left post on solenoid), if you dont get voltage, what do you think the issue is? I previously had voltage, replaced the solenoid and starter, and still didnt start, not upon checking this again I no longer get voltage on that test. As far as I can tell, my grounds are fine, relays are fine, fuses are fine, and connections are clean. I just get 1 hard click when trying to start followed by a smaller soft click somewhere else. Battery reads proper volts and wont start with jump pack.
@@ozzstars_cars The starter was a brand new bosch starter, and I am having the exact same issue as previously with the old starter, just 1 hard click. However, I did have voltage on the first test mentioned before swapping the starter. At this point I need to cross the bridge of getting power to the left side of the fender solenoid again. I did a few ground tests earlier and all seemed fine, will have to lookup if I missed something.
My 1996 F150 has been giving me a headache with its starter solenoid. I swapped out the original OEM part with a Duralast (which resembles BWD) last week, and although it initially worked fine, it's now acting up again with intermittent starting problems. I'm leaning towards opting for a Motorcraft replacement.
Great Video, I just bought a 1988 ford ranger, that won't start, your video gave me, some good tips to fix that issue myself, I will provide an update if I could get that issue fix.
Awesome video! The negative terminal you mentioned is really being pulled to chassis ground through the starter solenoid coil so its technically not the same as the negative on the battery. Measuring the resistance of that terminal to chassis ground will show tens of ohms. In your video, measuring 12 volts confirms the coil isn't open and is a good check to do.
Whenever I say, "I'll get it later ...", I forget I dropped it, and spend 40 minutes cursing trying to find it (usually a 10mm ...) the next day! 😂 Broke When Delivered strikes again! I've got a Ford solenoid story for ya, Glenn! :D So, I bought a Motorcraft one from RockAuto back in 2016 for the Grand Marquis. I had just replaced all 3 battery cables, plus installed a new Remy starter. Put the Motorcraft one in to replace the 10 year old (at the time) one I had bought from Autozone (can't recall the brand). All was well - that starter whipped over faster than I had heard it in years! Then one day I was sitting on the can as my wife went out to go to work. Window was open (which happens to face the garage)in preparation for the nasal assault. I hear the starter crank ... and crank .. and crank! Thankfully I hadn't started my business yet! I flew out of there 100 MPH, just about knocked my wife over as she stood holding the keys in disbelief, and yanked the negative off the battery! I believe I was a victim of the 'rock auto switch' again. You have to pay close attention to what you're getting, regardless of what the box says. I've been burned SEVERAL times by this over the years - the past 5 in particular. I think I got a Motorcraft box, but some other substandard part inside the box. I ended up putting that old Autozone solenoid back in, and it's still working today - 4 years later. 😎
Google keeps messing with my comments!! Finally got this one straight - sorry if you got bombarded with multiple comment notifications there, Glenn. 😡😡
Smitty I would have really been upset about you getting ripped off about buying a knockoff solenoid but throw the toilet story in and I'm literally lol! 😂 I can just hear the starter bendix screaming and the flex plate begging for mercy just as your about to drop a mean deuce in the bowl! haha When I took the Broke When Delivered back to Advance Auto the guy told me since covid19 he has seen parts boxes that usually say made in China that are now printed made in Mexico. So who the hell knows where this inferior crap is coming from? All we know is it's junk. Lots of Motorcraft parts are counterfeit which I'm sure you are aware of like spark plugs and coils being two popular parts. Take care
When I turn the key I can hear a click up to under the hood which I think is the relay. But when I try your screwdriver trick it sparks a little but does not start. Does that mean starter solenoid is bad?
Would you rather have the new Solenoid never Hot or Always Hot? A few years back I went through an old friend of mine’s Ford 8N Tractor. It Needed all new electrical from sitting 8 years, do it once, do it right was the plan. I Got a new solenoid from the local New Holland dealer, made in China. I get everything in order, all excited because this was the last piece. I hook the battery terminals up and the engine starts to turn over! I triple check the key, wiring, double trace everything since it’s Positive ground and a new format for me. I’m completely stumped! The Next day I stop at Tractor Supply and buy one made in Taiwan. Put it in and works like new. China vs Taiwan vs Mexico
@@ozzstars_cars it's ussed to run electric fuel pumps until oil pressure is normal. My '85 f350 with a hot start system has electric fuel pumps, and uses that terminal.
Thank you ive replaced my battery, then my cables from the starter to the battery , alternator and the starter. Just to watch this video and see it was my solenoid😂 thank you for sure
Very professional video (wish all DIY were as clear w/ instructions). So, I'm having intermittent starting issues and when I tried the ignition test which you begin to show at 8:00 - it fails, there's no light on my test probe. My ignition fuse is still good so what does this mean exactly? Could this ignition cable itself be bad?
Test at the starter relay to see if that is working. If the fuse is good and relay doesn't click then it's time to test the ignition key switch. Thanks Scott for your positive comment.
Wonderful video. Wish I seen this before I changed my starter! Did a drop test on the solenoid and it never gets to a stable number. Jumps all over the place! Does this mean it is likely gone? It will spark but not jump when I try to start it.
@@ozzstars_cars thanks I followed the parasitic draw and fuse 14-15 inside cabin if I pull either one of them The light goes out on my tester. I could hear a clicking nonstop which was the battery saver relay? There was some thing on the brake pedal and I noticed a little clicking from the relay body battery saver stopped making noise. I put the brake on in the light got extremely bright. I just have no idea what this means so I put the brake on and try to start it it still wouldn’t start. So weird. Thanks for all your help to be honest I might not of solved it but it was still fun learning from you and playing mechanic. Oh I think I mentioned I am not a mechanic don’t pretend to be a mechanic I’m a psychotherapist working with children.lol
@@ozzstars_cars ended up being a bad solenoid in the brand new starter ? My buddy is a car and diesel truck and fighter jet mechanic lol. He figured it out in 10 min. Thanks for all your help. When it’s new you assume it is 100% good ? It’s not if it comes from China !
Hi, i got the same truck, it seems to shut off when i slow down n turn right. The first time it restarted, but it wouldnt start today at lunch. And showed 12.4 charge so a friend jumped it w thier truck and it workd the battery numbers jumped to 13 or 14 but i drove maybe 2 mins and it shut off again. Coasted home but the battery shows 12.4 and it wont jump start now and sometimes the dash lights come on when i turn the key Sometimes they dont.
Diagnostic Glen eh :) I sure wanted you to test the lower stud on the bwd to see if it energized the relay 🤣 I've lost a flashlight under my Chevy truck and still never found it . HAHAHA
Thanks for a great video sir, very precise and in depth. Question????? When you were bench testing the solenoid using a negitive battery cable clamp, why was it sparking on the ignition pole/rod?? Just wanted to clairfy was it the positive side jumper clamp to the base? Thank you very much. Appreciate your video and teaching! Cheers from Motown. Oh, New subscriber too. Thanks Glen
@@ozzstars_cars Thanks for your quick reply Glen. Solenoid (New) checks out fine. No voltage from positive to neg side being transfered in start mode. Hot side is 12.5 volts. I have 67 Mustang gt with a 4 post solenoid. Red/blue wire to the "S" terminal. Solid brown wire to the "I" post. While momma was turning the key to start, I got no Continuity light up on the "S" wire. Appears that could be the problem? Thanks again for your time, it is very much appreciated sir.
@@ozzstars_cars Thnks Glen. Pulled instrument bezel and found a connection not plugged in (was hot) right at the back ignition switch wiring area. Plugged it back in and now have power to the "S" terminal on solenoid. Dumb mistake on my part when I installed the new Ignition switch a few days ago. Duh! Take care, blessings to you from Michigan
I bought a solenoid for the starter, the other one got hot and actually broke out . Hooked it up and put normal 12. 6 volts to it.the same lower solenoid got hot New starter in order?
Good job... I have a 98 Ford F150 4x4, automatic transmission, but I have a big problem with it, the 4x4 it doesn't works, the windows doesn't works sometimes either, I hope you can help me whit those things, it's been really stressful, I've tried changing the module that it goes into the fuse box, but still not working
What about the plastic covers for all electrical components... My service man says,"...they are not necessary!" But, of course they are ...protect electrical parts from rain and moisture. He threw the plastic covers away!
I’m currently going crazy trying to fix my 95 ford 350. I changed out the starter solenoid, I bypassed the solenoid and it runs. But i don’t have the tool to see if i’m getting voltage from the wire to the ignition which i think I’m not. I hear the relay or something click when i go to start it tho.
I just changed my solenoid on 1985 f150. The one that I took off was put on wrong. Positive and negative wires were on wrong. . I have no power when I turn key to on with everything connected..
I always assumed the Ford solenoid was hooked up to a starter with no solenoid at the motor. Now I'm confused. Why even have it? Do those heavy cables carry the signal line for the starter solenoid at the motor? I was surprised to learn that the signal line for a starter motor carries quite a bit of current as well, often ~ 15A for a few seconds. Maybe this allows current going through the ignition switch to be reduced by a using second relay.
There are two things I'd like a Ford engineer to explain to me. 1) Why Ford does the double starter solenoid deal. 2) I still haven't figured out why Ford uses a negative type EVR (egr vacuum regulator) which induces an engine vacuum leak on purpose. Let me know if you can figure it out Dave. 👍
My truck will start with bypassing the solenoid but after changing it for a new one i still only can start with bypassing. Any suggestions? I'm thinking keyswitch...
11* weather in michigan but when i go to start i cet a click. when i try to jump solenoid i get nothing. there were NO SIGNS prior,wedensday it worked,thursday morning it didnt. maybe the starter froze? or just took a crap? idk. you have an awesome informative video but theres nothing between solenoid and starter is there? its 5:50am and im searching the internet to push off going out in the cold. please tell me to jab the starter with a broom stick a few times lol gotta build a barn
I know this is old video, but I'm hopeful someone can help. This video is great! I was testing my solenoid, but when I did negative of battery terminal to positive of starter solenoid I dropped ~1.5V. Does this simply mean I need new solenoid or is there more at play here? Battery is currently sitting at 11.5V so I know I need to replace/charge it, when I do negative of solenoid to positive of battery I keep the same level, it is just when I do negative of battery to positive of solenoid I drop to 10V
Ok I’m working on a 2012 f250 6.2 gas.. the guy at work said once in a great while it will start with the key and other times had to crawl underneath and jump the solenoid.well today the starter Bendix went out. So got a new starter cleaned all the connections put it all together and nothing still.. I have power coming to the starter main wire but when the ignition is turned the s terminal doesn’t get juice.. is it the ignition or neutral safety switch? Or something else..
So I replaced the starter on my 05 f150 starter due to ugly grind when starting..... but still grinding... some say this firrwall solenoid probably not sending enough power to starter
If you verify your starter motor brushes are still good is it worth it to replace the solenoid or should You just replace the whole starter? Why do fords have a relay under the hood then another solenoid relay on the starter?
Personally I replace it with new, not rebuilt. The firewall solenoid cuts down on the current the ignition switch needs to deal with, it's sort of like a relay.
1998 Ford Expedition - no start - insert key in ignition and all power to the vehicle goes out. I loosen, move and tighten the battery cables and power returns. Try to start truck and power goes out again. Power sometimes returns after just waiting awhile. Good battery; clean terminals; just attempt to start vehicle and the power goes out. Solenoid jump does nothing except make the truck loose all power. It started and ran fine a week ago and when it sits for two weeks it still starts; until now. Unlock truck and power is on; insert key and turn to Run and a few seconds later the power goes off. Suggestions?
Voltage Drop ! All parts test good . Starter works fine on bench , on truck it makes a clunk noise & attempts to turn motor - failing . Solenoid to starter cable test ok with Ohms meter . Is it possible to Not to supply enough Volts Amps to starter when system engaged ? How to test it .
Motorcraft Starter Solenoid SW1951C: **amzn.to/32Yuhqw**
Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar
If this video has helped you out consider donating to the the channel with Paypal, thanks!: www.paypal.me/ozzstar
Oops 9
So I have a question. I replaced the starter solenoid under the hood. Ive been having problems with getting a rapid clicking sound though and my dash lights go haywire. If I turn the key two many times its like the battery goes dead and nothing happens. The thing is i just had my truck in the shop and they checked my battery and alternator and they were good. So could this be my ignition switch.
@@ghettohey2388 could be anything. I would definitely check that the ground wires are all in good condition and have clean contact points.
I had an intermittent start (click then would grab) for awhile then it just wouldn't start at all, just click. I followed your steps and noticed when I checked between the positive battery and the negative solonoid it would show voltage, but it was fluctuating up and down. Then when I jumped the solonoid it just clicked, no start. I was about to go buy a new solonoid and new starter when logic kicked in and I thought that I must just not be getting enough power. So I started tugging on wires and the positive cables pulled out of the terminal. I took it off and flattened it a bit to be tighter, re-installed and it cranked right up. Saved me alot of time, money, blood, sweat and tears. Thanks.
High resistance was the problem. Nice find!
Thank you. I like how clear and simple you made it look! I will fix my truck and share it with my friends.
That's good!
Symptoms said mine was suspect too.
I landed on your video, same make year/model. I think the best advice was just getting the oem replacement. Exact match. Fixed. Thanks, great content!
Awesome!
Yes, I’ve gone through the same thing over the years. One observation is that the negative terminal on the solenoid that you referred to is actually the positive terminal coming from the battery. Where the other terminal will still be positive going down to the starter motor. Great video Glen and should help folks to be aware of inferior parts.
You are absolutely correct Terry! I should have clarified that better and glad you called me out on it. Thank you sir. For anyone who may not understand, the left side solenoid terminal becomes HOT when the solenoid is activated and sends power directly to the starter. The right side terminal is always HOT even with the key in the off position.
@@ozzstars_cars Left terminal Grounding through the starter motor windings -- thus indicating that it was a "ground" with the test light ?
A friend had a Land Rover. Starter switch system under the dash kept burning up. Seemed like the ignition switch carried the full starter current. I had had several Fords and suggested he should activate it through a Ford solenoid. I couldn't make him understand what I suggested -- my lack of adequate explanation I think. Thanks for the video.
@@davecaselli1957 yes, grounding through the starter lit the test light when not in use. Thanks for your comment.
Pro tip : you can watch movies at Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching lots of of movies these days.
@Elian Anderson Definitely, I have been using Flixzone} for months myself :D
Awesome video! Kinda rough here and there, but best explanation I've seen after looking at several others. Easy to understand, non-technical. My kinda video! Now...I got some work to do!
Kinda rough? I'll refund your money. 😮
@@ozzstars_cars You’re great! I just meant that the slicker RUclips presentations fell short of explaining this. You had phones ringing, dropping tools, etc. Loved every minute of it! Keep up the good work!
@DragonPilot gotcha, I didn't take it personally. 😜 Thanks for your comment! -Glen (Ozz)
Thank you for showing how to test the solenoid. I just tested mine, it's not clicking or doing anything. I was thinking it was the alarm system messed up again. I still want to remove the alarm system because it's an aftermarket piece of junk, sometimes it runs and sometimes it doesn't
This is the best video I have ever seen on starters and solenoids. Thanks. Knowing what poles to cross to start the vehicle is what I needed to know.
Thanks!
My starter stays engaged but if I pull the little red wire loose it disengage
Brother Dan did a remarkable job in the video, starter relay and voltage regulation.
dan I get clicks down at the starter when using the screwdriver test against positive and negative. The top portion of the regulator on the fire wall I am interested in. Its purpose etc. I believe a neighbor disconnected things from it.
I'm going through the same thing to on my 2001 ford f-150 xlt 5.4 v8 tritón. I'm going to go ahead and do that, by the way it was a great video and good presentation step by step which that's the correct way to do it, some just show you but some don't explain step by step and taking their time. I really appreciate you showing this video and I'm pretty sure others out there appreciate you to. Thank you
Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with the fix!
I Appreciate your video I changed mine while watching your video and found a problem that i already had when I bought my truck a few months ago it was wired completely wrong so thanks keep up the good work saved me some money
Glad it helped
Thank you sir for taking the time to make this in depth video. The video was clear and not shaky. I appreciate it.
Your welcome Chase, thanks for the comment
Thanks for the awesome video. My wifes been having problems with her 1998 F150. Sometimes it'll start sometimes it won't. I tested the solenoid and bam. Problem identified. THANKS!!
Awesome!
thanks I am hoping this works for my 1998 F150 Triton!!!
Good luck!
I think I treasure my battery 3/8 ratchet more than my impact drill 😁
For those who are replacing a fender mount solenoid- be prepared to horse around the thick cables to match up the solenoid 8mm holding bolts
For sure Richard. I made my cables up with that in mind and orientated the ends to face flat on those 8mm holding posts. Thank God I did. lol
Nice job Glen, new parts have caused a lot of extra of work sometimes.
wow thank you very much!!you saved me lots of money and it was so easy to check and replace. a mechanic wanted 150. just to check it out.
Good news Ernie!
FYI, in the old days, the additional post on the aftermarket solenoid was used to send 12 volts to the ignition points, allowing a hotter spark on startups. Thank you for sharing.
Okay good to know. Sort of an auxiliary power source. Thanks for the info Andrew
@@ozzstars_cars Yes the normal voltage to the coil/ points is through a resistance wire bringing it down to 8 volts or so. The I terminal would send 12 volts to the points while cranking
Awesome video man! FYI, that's actually starter relay. To the best of my understanding, it helps crank the starter so the battery doesn't drain
Good video Glen. I have jump many of the old Ford solenoids like that over the years !
Today I just went through the same thing you did with the starter solenoid. Ended up with the same "NEW" design that didn't work. Going to order one online now.
Motorcraft is the way to go in this case!
Love the SLOMO socket fail... Awesome info friend!!!
Thanks!
Great video , I'm going to have to go check the other test videos too .. my old girl's been having some issues.
Good luck Kim
Thanks Glen. Very informative! Always keep it to one hot dog.
Haha Andy. Thanks for the comment!
Wow. Just what I was looking for. Very informative. Thank you very much.
Awesome!
I just put on one of those 4-terminal relays today. Relay clicks loudly, but starter doesn't crank very often. Same problem I started with. Now if I jumper the two large copper terminals, the engine cranks every time. The 12VDC to the relay is good as the relay clicks loudly regardless whether the starter cranks or not. So it must be junk. I admit I`ll have to confirm this. Interestingly, the box said Made in China, but the plastic bag inside said Made In Taiwan. Plan is to do more testing and also take my old Ford relay apart, clean the contacts, and then try it. If it works, then I`ll know to buy a new Ford relay. I also noticed that plastic part interfering with getting the heavy cables on. The new relay came with spacers, but they don`t raise the cable away enough.... the plastic is still in the way. I didn`t check, but I think that 4th terminal connects to the coil (+) on older cars. It provides 12VDC during cranking which essentially bypasses the ballast resistor to get max battery voltage to the coil during starting. If that`s the case, DON`T ground it!
Buy a Motorcraft solenoid, link in the description.
Thank you for this video. I see you have problems too.
All kinds of problems. Chaos is always causing trouble!
From a shade tree mechanic this video was very helpful. Great job explaining everything.
You're welcome Dudley.
Distributor pick up coil could also be an intermittent problem like this. So, if this doesn't work that's the next part I'll buy. Good video ,it helped. Changing out started solenoid tomorrow. Bought the cheap one at auto zone for $24. Hope it works. Didn't want to wait two days for amazon plus spend another 10 or so. My 94 fordE-250, did an intermittent no start, no nothing to me twice already. Third motor, 4.9 ,rebuilt trans once and has 305,000 miles and still going. Owned now for 20 years.
The aftermarket solenoids suck. Buy a Motorcraft part and be done in one.
The negative terminal you referred to is actually a positive terminal coming from the battery and the other positive terminal is for going down to the starter motor
Correct, I have pinned an explanation at the top of the comment section. 👍
nice video , i cant imagine how many starters have been changed on cars that have this design and the problem was the solenoid .
More than we can count. 🤣
The first test you do around 4:45 (positive battery terminal to left post on solenoid), if you dont get voltage, what do you think the issue is? I previously had voltage, replaced the solenoid and starter, and still didnt start, not upon checking this again I no longer get voltage on that test. As far as I can tell, my grounds are fine, relays are fine, fuses are fine, and connections are clean. I just get 1 hard click when trying to start followed by a smaller soft click somewhere else. Battery reads proper volts and wont start with jump pack.
Definitely could be resistance in a positive cable but most likely a poor ground connection, unless the starter is defective. Did you test it?
@@ozzstars_cars The starter was a brand new bosch starter, and I am having the exact same issue as previously with the old starter, just 1 hard click. However, I did have voltage on the first test mentioned before swapping the starter. At this point I need to cross the bridge of getting power to the left side of the fender solenoid again. I did a few ground tests earlier and all seemed fine, will have to lookup if I missed something.
Great video. I appreciate the detailed narrative
Glad it helped!
Thanks, that was a big help. Mine is a 2002 but it's the same solenoid. luckily mine quit in the driveway not at a store.
That was convenient.
Liked your video, the humor made me stay.
Entertainment at it's finest.
My 1996 F150 has been giving me a headache with its starter solenoid. I swapped out the original OEM part with a Duralast (which resembles BWD) last week, and although it initially worked fine, it's now acting up again with intermittent starting problems. I'm leaning towards opting for a Motorcraft replacement.
JR do what guy in the video did, go OEM Motorcraft.
You are a life saver plz continue making amazing content
Thanks for the compliment and comment!
Great video! Finally a well explained correct video on starter solenoid relay replacement!thank you 🫵👍 🇺🇸
Glad it helped!
Good diag Glen and explanation 👍
Just did mine ended up getting a new starter all so I needed it to be trustworthy
Did you buy the lifetime warranty model?
Jesus led me to this video in the middle of my travels. Godbless you brother and thank you God thank you Jesus Amen
Amen
Thank you very much!
Thank you for the tutorial, it fired right up after I replaced it!
Nice!
Great Video, I just bought a 1988 ford ranger, that won't start, your video gave me, some good tips to fix that issue myself, I will provide an update if I could get that issue fix.
Glad it helped
Thanks from the desert
hi! i just saw your comment on TubeBuddys video and decided to stop by! Awesome content! Keep crushing it ❤️!
Squoosh. Done. Haha Thanks
Thank you so much!! I have been trying to figure out what's going on with my 1994 Ford E350 club wagon with the inline 6! THANK YOU SO MUCH 👍
Thank you... You explained everything very clearly and didn't over explain things. Your video helped tremendously thanks again
You're welcome Brenda, thanks.
Awesome video! The negative terminal you mentioned is really being pulled to chassis ground through the starter solenoid coil so its technically not the same as the negative on the battery. Measuring the resistance of that terminal to chassis ground will show tens of ohms. In your video, measuring 12 volts confirms the coil isn't open and is a good check to do.
I had an Evenrude with a Ford solenoid. When it went south I made a mistake of buying a wing wang brand and it lasted about 1 month.
Whenever I say, "I'll get it later ...", I forget I dropped it, and spend 40 minutes cursing trying to find it (usually a 10mm ...) the next day! 😂
Broke When Delivered strikes again! I've got a Ford solenoid story for ya, Glenn! :D
So, I bought a Motorcraft one from RockAuto back in 2016 for the Grand Marquis. I had just replaced all 3 battery cables, plus installed a new Remy starter. Put the Motorcraft one in to replace the 10 year old (at the time) one I had bought from Autozone (can't recall the brand). All was well - that starter whipped over faster than I had heard it in years! Then one day I was sitting on the can as my wife went out to go to work. Window was open (which happens to face the garage)in preparation for the nasal assault. I hear the starter crank ... and crank .. and crank! Thankfully I hadn't started my business yet! I flew out of there 100 MPH, just about knocked my wife over as she stood holding the keys in disbelief, and yanked the negative off the battery!
I believe I was a victim of the 'rock auto switch' again. You have to pay close attention to what you're getting, regardless of what the box says. I've been burned SEVERAL times by this over the years - the past 5 in particular. I think I got a Motorcraft box, but some other substandard part inside the box. I ended up putting that old Autozone solenoid back in, and it's still working today - 4 years later. 😎
Google keeps messing with my comments!! Finally got this one straight - sorry if you got bombarded with multiple comment notifications there, Glenn. 😡😡
Smitty I would have really been upset about you getting ripped off about buying a knockoff solenoid but throw the toilet story in and I'm literally lol! 😂 I can just hear the starter bendix screaming and the flex plate begging for mercy just as your about to drop a mean deuce in the bowl! haha When I took the Broke When Delivered back to Advance Auto the guy told me since covid19 he has seen parts boxes that usually say made in China that are now printed made in Mexico. So who the hell knows where this inferior crap is coming from? All we know is it's junk. Lots of Motorcraft parts are counterfeit which I'm sure you are aware of like spark plugs and coils being two popular parts. Take care
@@ozzstars_cars - I'm just glad I didn't have to pinch and run ... could've ruined my day! 😃
@@SmittySmithsonite 🤣🤣🤣
When I try to jump my starter it sparks like crazy and a lot is that a sign that the starter is no good?
When I turn the key I can hear a click up to under the hood which I think is the relay. But when I try your screwdriver trick it sparks a little but does not start. Does that mean starter solenoid is bad?
Time to test the solenoid just like I show in the video.
So you mean take it off and tester it. Correct?
Would you rather have the new Solenoid never Hot or Always Hot? A few years back I went through an old friend of mine’s Ford 8N Tractor. It Needed all new electrical from sitting 8 years, do it once, do it right was the plan. I Got a new solenoid from the local New Holland dealer, made in China. I get everything in order, all excited because this was the last piece. I hook the battery terminals up and the engine starts to turn over! I triple check the key, wiring, double trace everything since it’s Positive ground and a new format for me. I’m completely stumped! The Next day I stop at Tractor Supply and buy one made in Taiwan. Put it in and works like new. China vs Taiwan vs Mexico
Wow, stuck in the ON position. Never know what junk is being sold. Take care
You are very good mechanic and you explain very clearly I like you videos thancks friend
Thanks Hector for the kind words.
@@ozzstars_cars yes thancks and keep up you exelet work
Great video glen and Yep on New "Never ever Worked "
Good Videos clear Information Thank you
You got it! Thanks for your comment.
Good to see you glen
I'm back. Thanks
Like how you explain an check, I have a 1996 f150 ,
Thanks
The small bottom post isn't a ground. It's hot while cranking.
Interesting
@@ozzstars_cars it's ussed to run electric fuel pumps until oil pressure is normal. My '85 f350 with a hot start system has electric fuel pumps, and uses that terminal.
Very good explaination! Thank you for help!
@danielhallforth9026 you got it Daniel. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you ive replaced my battery, then my cables from the starter to the battery , alternator and the starter. Just to watch this video and see it was my solenoid😂 thank you for sure
It's an experience you won't soon forget. 👍
Interested in the wiring if there are 2 solenoids.
Excellent video in a way that's easy to understand.
Glad it was helpful to you Ken. Thanks for the comment.
thank you mister ,you saved me lot$$$$ of money
That's good news!
Very professional video (wish all DIY were as clear w/ instructions). So, I'm having intermittent starting issues and when I tried the ignition test which you begin to show at 8:00 - it fails, there's no light on my test probe. My ignition fuse is still good so what does this mean exactly? Could this ignition cable itself be bad?
Test at the starter relay to see if that is working. If the fuse is good and relay doesn't click then it's time to test the ignition key switch. Thanks Scott for your positive comment.
@@ozzstars_cars Looks like I'm at the point of testing the ignition switch (that should be a barrel of monkeys). Thanks again for the help!
Wonderful video. Wish I seen this before I changed my starter! Did a drop test on the solenoid and it never gets to a stable number. Jumps all over the place! Does this mean it is likely gone? It will spark but not jump when I try to start it.
Could be. Check the wiring as well, do a wiggle test.
@@ozzstars_cars thanks I followed the parasitic draw and fuse 14-15 inside cabin if I pull either one of them The light goes out on my tester. I could hear a clicking nonstop which was the battery saver relay? There was some thing on the brake pedal and I noticed a little clicking from the relay body battery saver stopped making noise. I put the brake on in the light got extremely bright. I just have no idea what this means so I put the brake on and try to start it it still wouldn’t start. So weird. Thanks for all your help to be honest I might not of solved it but it was still fun learning from you and playing mechanic. Oh I think I mentioned I am not a mechanic don’t pretend to be a mechanic I’m a psychotherapist working with children.lol
@@Jasonjames1970 your job is tougher than mine. Thanks for what you do and glad the video was helpful. -Glen
@@ozzstars_cars ended up being a bad solenoid in the brand new starter ? My buddy is a car and diesel truck and fighter jet mechanic lol. He figured it out in 10 min. Thanks for all your help. When it’s new you assume it is 100% good ? It’s not if it comes from China !
@@Jasonjames1970 NEW = Never Ever Worked. Glad to hear the mystery is solved.
Hi, i got the same truck, it seems to shut off when i slow down n turn right. The first time it restarted, but it wouldnt start today at lunch. And showed 12.4 charge so a friend jumped it w thier truck and it workd the battery numbers jumped to 13 or 14 but i drove maybe 2 mins and it shut off again. Coasted home but the battery shows 12.4 and it wont jump start now and sometimes the dash lights come on when i turn the key Sometimes they dont.
Same problem! You forgot find a Solution?
@@moniquecasey6133 I was told prbly alternator. Gonna try to get it to a mechanic soon
Diagnostic Glen eh :) I sure wanted you to test the lower stud on the bwd to see if it energized the relay 🤣 I've lost a flashlight under my Chevy truck and still never found it . HAHAHA
If I tried that the entire world may have shorted out. haha Thanks Steve
Thanks for a great video sir, very precise and in depth. Question????? When you were bench testing the solenoid using a negitive battery cable clamp, why was it sparking on the ignition pole/rod?? Just wanted to clairfy was it the positive side jumper clamp to the base? Thank you very much. Appreciate your video and teaching! Cheers from Motown. Oh, New subscriber too. Thanks Glen
The sparks are due to high resistance because the BWD coil is defective and grounding out. Thanks for your comment Robert!
@@ozzstars_cars Thanks for your quick reply Glen. Solenoid (New) checks out fine. No voltage from positive to neg side being transfered in start mode. Hot side is 12.5 volts. I have 67 Mustang gt with a 4 post solenoid. Red/blue wire to the "S" terminal. Solid brown wire to the "I" post. While momma was turning the key to start, I got no Continuity light up on the "S" wire. Appears that could be the problem? Thanks again for your time, it is very much appreciated sir.
@@robertclymer6948 voltage drop test, find out where the short or corrosion is hiding. 😉
@@ozzstars_cars Thnks Glen. Pulled instrument bezel and found a connection not plugged in (was hot) right at the back ignition switch wiring area. Plugged it back in and now have power to the "S" terminal on solenoid. Dumb mistake on my part when I installed the new Ignition switch a few days ago. Duh! Take care, blessings to you from Michigan
@@robertclymer6948 glad you found the short! We all learn from our experiences.
I bought a solenoid for the starter, the other one got hot and actually broke out .
Hooked it up and put normal 12.
6 volts to it.the same lower solenoid got hot
New starter in order?
@johndunbar4660 also check the cables for proper clean tight connection and resistance, could be internal corrosion???
Hecho en México nice
When I crank my truck the starter engages when I push the clutch while running. I unplugged ignition wire and jumped the solenoid and it works fine.
Ford Edge 20xx wont start, theft led blinking. Disconnect battery then try again. WORKS!
So what do you think is causing the PATS security to glitch out?
Where is the link to starter replacement?
ruclips.net/video/uGUIH2Fpho0/видео.htmlsi=VLws0YZICNNDL45L
Good job...
I have a 98 Ford F150 4x4, automatic transmission, but I have a big problem with it, the 4x4 it doesn't works, the windows doesn't works sometimes either, I hope you can help me whit those things, it's been really stressful, I've tried changing the module that it goes into the fuse box, but still not working
What about the plastic covers for all electrical components... My service man says,"...they are not necessary!" But, of course they are ...protect electrical parts from rain and moisture. He threw the plastic covers away!
@allen5455 makes for some nice fireworks if a metal tool touches the contacts to ground.
@@ozzstars_cars ...can also blow out parts!
Good video, thanks a lot
You're welcome suz
I've always was told that you couldn't turn a battery sideways and sure enough that battery is turned sideways
Why can't a battery be turned sideways provided it is right side up? What were you told the reason was?
They’re both positive terminals. Check for 12 volts from the key switch first.
I’m currently going crazy trying to fix my 95 ford 350. I changed out the starter solenoid, I bypassed the solenoid and it runs. But i don’t have the tool to see if i’m getting voltage from the wire to the ignition which i think I’m not. I hear the relay or something click when i go to start it tho.
I just changed my solenoid on 1985 f150. The one that I took off was put on wrong. Positive and negative wires were on wrong. . I have no power when I turn key to on with everything connected..
Check the terminal connections and wire continuity.
Thanks a lot I appreciate it
@kaseylindee4282 you're welcome Kasey!
I always assumed the Ford solenoid was hooked up to a starter with no solenoid at the motor. Now I'm confused. Why even have it? Do those heavy cables carry the signal line for the starter solenoid at the motor? I was surprised to learn that the signal line for a starter motor carries quite a bit of current as well, often ~ 15A for a few seconds. Maybe this allows current going through the ignition switch to be reduced by a using second relay.
There are two things I'd like a Ford engineer to explain to me. 1) Why Ford does the double starter solenoid deal. 2) I still haven't figured out why Ford uses a negative type EVR (egr vacuum regulator) which induces an engine vacuum leak on purpose. Let me know if you can figure it out Dave. 👍
My truck will start with bypassing the solenoid but after changing it for a new one i still only can start with bypassing.
Any suggestions? I'm thinking keyswitch...
Junk aftermarket part?
Excellent video thanks
You're welcome Michael
11* weather in michigan but when i go to start i cet a click.
when i try to jump solenoid i get nothing.
there were NO SIGNS prior,wedensday it worked,thursday morning it didnt.
maybe the starter froze? or just took a crap?
idk.
you have an awesome informative video but theres nothing between solenoid and starter is there?
its 5:50am and im searching the internet to push off going out in the cold.
please tell me to jab the starter with a broom stick a few times lol
gotta build a barn
Cold weather does crazy things to machines. Good luck, hope you fix it.
I know this is old video, but I'm hopeful someone can help. This video is great! I was testing my solenoid, but when I did negative of battery terminal to positive of starter solenoid I dropped ~1.5V. Does this simply mean I need new solenoid or is there more at play here?
Battery is currently sitting at 11.5V so I know I need to replace/charge it, when I do negative of solenoid to positive of battery I keep the same level, it is just when I do negative of battery to positive of solenoid I drop to 10V
Before you do any voltage drop test you need a battery that is fully charged. Low amperage on a weak battery is not going to get the job done.
@ozzstars_cars thank you for the reply. I got a new battery so wish me luck lol.
The deez nuts joke made me like the video😂😂😂 great stuff. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Sure thing Westley! 😄
Ok I’m working on a 2012 f250 6.2 gas.. the guy at work said once in a great while it will start with the key and other times had to crawl underneath and jump the solenoid.well today the starter Bendix went out. So got a new starter cleaned all the connections put it all together and nothing still.. I have power coming to the starter main wire but when the ignition is turned the s terminal doesn’t get juice.. is it the ignition or neutral safety switch? Or something else..
Yup, also make sure the relay is working properly and not an intermittent fault..Good luck with the diagnosis. Let us know what you find.
Excelent help me with my truck
Awesome!
What happens if u jump it by touching both sides and still won't start or crank what would be my next step
Then you probably should watch this video I posted ruclips.net/video/uGUIH2Fpho0/видео.html
Nice video keep it coming please
You got it, over 300 automotive repair videos on the Ozzstar's Cars channel.
Great job 👏
Thanks Arlene
So I replaced the starter on my 05 f150 starter due to ugly grind when starting..... but still grinding... some say this firrwall solenoid probably not sending enough power to starter
Bending needs to properly align with the flex plate. Flexplate could have worn or broken teeth.
If you verify your starter motor brushes are still good is it worth it to replace the solenoid or should You just replace the whole starter? Why do fords have a relay under the hood then another solenoid relay on the starter?
Personally I replace it with new, not rebuilt. The firewall solenoid cuts down on the current the ignition switch needs to deal with, it's sort of like a relay.
@@ozzstars_cars thanks
I was referring to the solenoid on the starter not the one on the hood.
1998 Ford Expedition - no start - insert key in ignition and all power to the vehicle goes out. I loosen, move and tighten the battery cables and power returns. Try to start truck and power goes out again. Power sometimes returns after just waiting awhile. Good battery; clean terminals; just attempt to start vehicle and the power goes out. Solenoid jump does nothing except make the truck loose all power. It started and ran fine a week ago and when it sits for two weeks it still starts; until now. Unlock truck and power is on; insert key and turn to Run and a few seconds later the power goes off. Suggestions?
Both battery cables need to be load tested. There may be a break and/or corrosion.
Voltage Drop ! All parts test good . Starter works fine on bench , on truck it makes a clunk noise & attempts to turn motor - failing . Solenoid to starter cable test ok with Ohms meter . Is it possible to Not to supply enough Volts Amps to starter when system engaged ? How to test it .
Ohms test won't help determine if enough volts/amps are getting to the starter. Could just be a weak starter motor.
Check all your ground straps especially the flimsy ribbon ones that will crumble in your hand but look okay at first glance
Best video ❤
Thanks Greg!