Ford Truck Starter Solenoid Replacement -Won't Crank, no start
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- Опубликовано: 24 сен 2020
- Replacing a fender mounted starter solenoid can be fairly simple but there are a few details that should be checked. Proper testing can determine if the original solenoid is defective but sometimes a new part can be a dud. Check out the video to learn how to do a proper diagnosis and replacement of the starter solenoid on an F150 and find out why the new Ford starter solenoid problem occurred. If you have any questions or comments please leave them down below. Thanks for stopping by the Ozzstar's Cars channel! -Ozz (Glen)
Motorcraft Starter Solenoid SW1951C: amzn.to/32Yuhqw
Ford F150 Starter Diagnosis and Replacement video: • No Crank, No Start - D...
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Motorcraft Starter Solenoid SW1951C: **amzn.to/32Yuhqw**
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Oops 9
So I have a question. I replaced the starter solenoid under the hood. Ive been having problems with getting a rapid clicking sound though and my dash lights go haywire. If I turn the key two many times its like the battery goes dead and nothing happens. The thing is i just had my truck in the shop and they checked my battery and alternator and they were good. So could this be my ignition switch.
@@ghettohey2388 could be anything. I would definitely check that the ground wires are all in good condition and have clean contact points.
Thank you sir for taking the time to make this in depth video. The video was clear and not shaky. I appreciate it.
Your welcome Chase, thanks for the comment
Thank you. I like how clear and simple you made it look! I will fix my truck and share it with my friends.
That's good!
This is the best video I have ever seen on starters and solenoids. Thanks. Knowing what poles to cross to start the vehicle is what I needed to know.
Thanks!
My starter stays engaged but if I pull the little red wire loose it disengage
Good video Glen. I have jump many of the old Ford solenoids like that over the years !
Symptoms said mine was suspect too.
I landed on your video, same make year/model. I think the best advice was just getting the oem replacement. Exact match. Fixed. Thanks, great content!
Awesome!
Nice job Glen, new parts have caused a lot of extra of work sometimes.
Thank you... You explained everything very clearly and didn't over explain things. Your video helped tremendously thanks again
You're welcome Brenda, thanks.
Thanks Glen. Very informative! Always keep it to one hot dog.
Haha Andy. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you so much!! I have been trying to figure out what's going on with my 1994 Ford E350 club wagon with the inline 6! THANK YOU SO MUCH 👍
Good diag Glen and explanation 👍
Thanks for the awesome video. My wifes been having problems with her 1998 F150. Sometimes it'll start sometimes it won't. I tested the solenoid and bam. Problem identified. THANKS!!
Awesome!
I'm going through the same thing to on my 2001 ford f-150 xlt 5.4 v8 tritón. I'm going to go ahead and do that, by the way it was a great video and good presentation step by step which that's the correct way to do it, some just show you but some don't explain step by step and taking their time. I really appreciate you showing this video and I'm pretty sure others out there appreciate you to. Thank you
Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with the fix!
Yes, I’ve gone through the same thing over the years. One observation is that the negative terminal on the solenoid that you referred to is actually the positive terminal coming from the battery. Where the other terminal will still be positive going down to the starter motor. Great video Glen and should help folks to be aware of inferior parts.
You are absolutely correct Terry! I should have clarified that better and glad you called me out on it. Thank you sir. For anyone who may not understand, the left side solenoid terminal becomes HOT when the solenoid is activated and sends power directly to the starter. The right side terminal is always HOT even with the key in the off position.
@@ozzstars_cars Left terminal Grounding through the starter motor windings -- thus indicating that it was a "ground" with the test light ?
A friend had a Land Rover. Starter switch system under the dash kept burning up. Seemed like the ignition switch carried the full starter current. I had had several Fords and suggested he should activate it through a Ford solenoid. I couldn't make him understand what I suggested -- my lack of adequate explanation I think. Thanks for the video.
@@davecaselli1957 yes, grounding through the starter lit the test light when not in use. Thanks for your comment.
Pro tip : you can watch movies at Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching lots of of movies these days.
@Elian Anderson Definitely, I have been using Flixzone} for months myself :D
Great video. I appreciate the detailed narrative
Glad it helped!
Thanks from the desert
Excellent video in a way that's easy to understand.
Glad it was helpful to you Ken. Thanks for the comment.
Great video! Finally a well explained correct video on starter solenoid relay replacement!thank you 🫵👍 🇺🇸
Glad it helped!
hi! i just saw your comment on TubeBuddys video and decided to stop by! Awesome content! Keep crushing it ❤️!
Squoosh. Done. Haha Thanks
wow thank you very much!!you saved me lots of money and it was so easy to check and replace. a mechanic wanted 150. just to check it out.
Good news Ernie!
Thank you for the tutorial, it fired right up after I replaced it!
Nice!
I Appreciate your video I changed mine while watching your video and found a problem that i already had when I bought my truck a few months ago it was wired completely wrong so thanks keep up the good work saved me some money
Glad it helped
I had an intermittent start (click then would grab) for awhile then it just wouldn't start at all, just click. I followed your steps and noticed when I checked between the positive battery and the negative solonoid it would show voltage, but it was fluctuating up and down. Then when I jumped the solonoid it just clicked, no start. I was about to go buy a new solonoid and new starter when logic kicked in and I thought that I must just not be getting enough power. So I started tugging on wires and the positive cables pulled out of the terminal. I took it off and flattened it a bit to be tighter, re-installed and it cranked right up. Saved me alot of time, money, blood, sweat and tears. Thanks.
High resistance was the problem. Nice find!
Brother Dan did a remarkable job in the video, starter relay and voltage regulation.
dan I get clicks down at the starter when using the screwdriver test against positive and negative. The top portion of the regulator on the fire wall I am interested in. Its purpose etc. I believe a neighbor disconnected things from it.
Love the SLOMO socket fail... Awesome info friend!!!
Thanks!
You are a life saver plz continue making amazing content
Thanks for the compliment and comment!
Awesome video! The negative terminal you mentioned is really being pulled to chassis ground through the starter solenoid coil so its technically not the same as the negative on the battery. Measuring the resistance of that terminal to chassis ground will show tens of ohms. In your video, measuring 12 volts confirms the coil isn't open and is a good check to do.
Good to see you glen
I'm back. Thanks
Great Video, I just bought a 1988 ford ranger, that won't start, your video gave me, some good tips to fix that issue myself, I will provide an update if I could get that issue fix.
Glad it helped
Awesome video. Big help!!
Thank you
Glad you like it, thanks
Great video , I'm going to have to go check the other test videos too .. my old girl's been having some issues.
Good luck Kim
Good vídeo that help me alot!!
Liked your video, the humor made me stay.
Entertainment at it's finest.
Jesus led me to this video in the middle of my travels. Godbless you brother and thank you God thank you Jesus Amen
Amen
Great video glen and Yep on New "Never ever Worked "
Thanks, that was a big help. Mine is a 2002 but it's the same solenoid. luckily mine quit in the driveway not at a store.
That was convenient.
Awesome video man! FYI, that's actually starter relay. To the best of my understanding, it helps crank the starter so the battery doesn't drain
Helpful video!!
Glad it helped.
Muy. Buen. Video. Amigo.
Felicidades.
Me. Ayudo. Mucho.
Great explanation. Thanks.
You're welcome Dan!
Great vid
Presented well
Thanks
Thanks Pete!
You are very good mechanic and you explain very clearly I like you videos thancks friend
Thanks Hector for the kind words.
@@ozzstars_cars yes thancks and keep up you exelet work
Great job 👏
Thanks Arlene
Excellent video thanks
You're welcome Michael
I love the song in the End. "Billy Jean".
Awesome. 😅
Was I singing again?? Sorry if I was. lol
Good Videos clear Information Thank you
You got it! Thanks for your comment.
thank you mister ,you saved me lot$$$$ of money
That's good news!
From a shade tree mechanic this video was very helpful. Great job explaining everything.
You're welcome Dudley.
Good video, thanks a lot
You're welcome suz
Excellent.
very good video
Thank you for the comment!
Nice video keep it coming please
You got it, over 300 automotive repair videos on the Ozzstar's Cars channel.
Today I just went through the same thing you did with the starter solenoid. Ended up with the same "NEW" design that didn't work. Going to order one online now.
Motorcraft is the way to go in this case!
For those who are replacing a fender mount solenoid- be prepared to horse around the thick cables to match up the solenoid 8mm holding bolts
For sure Richard. I made my cables up with that in mind and orientated the ends to face flat on those 8mm holding posts. Thank God I did. lol
I had an Evenrude with a Ford solenoid. When it went south I made a mistake of buying a wing wang brand and it lasted about 1 month.
Like how you explain an check, I have a 1996 f150 ,
Thanks
Thanks a lot I appreciate it
@kaseylindee4282 you're welcome Kasey!
FYI, in the old days, the additional post on the aftermarket solenoid was used to send 12 volts to the ignition points, allowing a hotter spark on startups. Thank you for sharing.
Okay good to know. Sort of an auxiliary power source. Thanks for the info Andrew
@@ozzstars_cars Yes the normal voltage to the coil/ points is through a resistance wire bringing it down to 8 volts or so. The I terminal would send 12 volts to the points while cranking
Thank you ive replaced my battery, then my cables from the starter to the battery , alternator and the starter. Just to watch this video and see it was my solenoid😂 thank you for sure
It's an experience you won't soon forget. 👍
Thank you for this video. I see you have problems too.
All kinds of problems. Chaos is always causing trouble!
Would you rather have the new Solenoid never Hot or Always Hot? A few years back I went through an old friend of mine’s Ford 8N Tractor. It Needed all new electrical from sitting 8 years, do it once, do it right was the plan. I Got a new solenoid from the local New Holland dealer, made in China. I get everything in order, all excited because this was the last piece. I hook the battery terminals up and the engine starts to turn over! I triple check the key, wiring, double trace everything since it’s Positive ground and a new format for me. I’m completely stumped! The Next day I stop at Tractor Supply and buy one made in Taiwan. Put it in and works like new. China vs Taiwan vs Mexico
Wow, stuck in the ON position. Never know what junk is being sold. Take care
nice video , i cant imagine how many starters have been changed on cars that have this design and the problem was the solenoid .
More than we can count. 🤣
Best video ❤
Thanks Greg!
Whenever I say, "I'll get it later ...", I forget I dropped it, and spend 40 minutes cursing trying to find it (usually a 10mm ...) the next day! 😂
Broke When Delivered strikes again! I've got a Ford solenoid story for ya, Glenn! :D
So, I bought a Motorcraft one from RockAuto back in 2016 for the Grand Marquis. I had just replaced all 3 battery cables, plus installed a new Remy starter. Put the Motorcraft one in to replace the 10 year old (at the time) one I had bought from Autozone (can't recall the brand). All was well - that starter whipped over faster than I had heard it in years! Then one day I was sitting on the can as my wife went out to go to work. Window was open (which happens to face the garage)in preparation for the nasal assault. I hear the starter crank ... and crank .. and crank! Thankfully I hadn't started my business yet! I flew out of there 100 MPH, just about knocked my wife over as she stood holding the keys in disbelief, and yanked the negative off the battery!
I believe I was a victim of the 'rock auto switch' again. You have to pay close attention to what you're getting, regardless of what the box says. I've been burned SEVERAL times by this over the years - the past 5 in particular. I think I got a Motorcraft box, but some other substandard part inside the box. I ended up putting that old Autozone solenoid back in, and it's still working today - 4 years later. 😎
Google keeps messing with my comments!! Finally got this one straight - sorry if you got bombarded with multiple comment notifications there, Glenn. 😡😡
Smitty I would have really been upset about you getting ripped off about buying a knockoff solenoid but throw the toilet story in and I'm literally lol! 😂 I can just hear the starter bendix screaming and the flex plate begging for mercy just as your about to drop a mean deuce in the bowl! haha When I took the Broke When Delivered back to Advance Auto the guy told me since covid19 he has seen parts boxes that usually say made in China that are now printed made in Mexico. So who the hell knows where this inferior crap is coming from? All we know is it's junk. Lots of Motorcraft parts are counterfeit which I'm sure you are aware of like spark plugs and coils being two popular parts. Take care
@@ozzstars_cars - I'm just glad I didn't have to pinch and run ... could've ruined my day! 😃
@@SmittySmithsonite 🤣🤣🤣
The deez nuts joke made me like the video😂😂😂 great stuff. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Sure thing Westley! 😄
That's a starter relay that you are holding! The solenoid is on the starter!
I just put on one of those 4-terminal relays today. Relay clicks loudly, but starter doesn't crank very often. Same problem I started with. Now if I jumper the two large copper terminals, the engine cranks every time. The 12VDC to the relay is good as the relay clicks loudly regardless whether the starter cranks or not. So it must be junk. I admit I`ll have to confirm this. Interestingly, the box said Made in China, but the plastic bag inside said Made In Taiwan. Plan is to do more testing and also take my old Ford relay apart, clean the contacts, and then try it. If it works, then I`ll know to buy a new Ford relay. I also noticed that plastic part interfering with getting the heavy cables on. The new relay came with spacers, but they don`t raise the cable away enough.... the plastic is still in the way. I didn`t check, but I think that 4th terminal connects to the coil (+) on older cars. It provides 12VDC during cranking which essentially bypasses the ballast resistor to get max battery voltage to the coil during starting. If that`s the case, DON`T ground it!
Buy a Motorcraft solenoid, link in the description.
Hecho en México nice
Just did mine ended up getting a new starter all so I needed it to be trustworthy
Did you buy the lifetime warranty model?
Good job...
I have a 98 Ford F150 4x4, automatic transmission, but I have a big problem with it, the 4x4 it doesn't works, the windows doesn't works sometimes either, I hope you can help me whit those things, it's been really stressful, I've tried changing the module that it goes into the fuse box, but still not working
Very professional video (wish all DIY were as clear w/ instructions). So, I'm having intermittent starting issues and when I tried the ignition test which you begin to show at 8:00 - it fails, there's no light on my test probe. My ignition fuse is still good so what does this mean exactly? Could this ignition cable itself be bad?
Test at the starter relay to see if that is working. If the fuse is good and relay doesn't click then it's time to test the ignition key switch. Thanks Scott for your positive comment.
@@ozzstars_cars Looks like I'm at the point of testing the ignition switch (that should be a barrel of monkeys). Thanks again for the help!
When I try to jump my starter it sparks like crazy and a lot is that a sign that the starter is no good?
Diagnostic Glen eh :) I sure wanted you to test the lower stud on the bwd to see if it energized the relay 🤣 I've lost a flashlight under my Chevy truck and still never found it . HAHAHA
If I tried that the entire world may have shorted out. haha Thanks Steve
Grasias por la clase
De nada 👍
Hey how you doing, anyhow I’m getting 12 volts on the positive but when tried to jump the two together I get nothing. Also I went down below and there is power going to starter when I jumper from the bottom I just get a wining sound
Interested in the wiring if there are 2 solenoids.
I’m currently going crazy trying to fix my 95 ford 350. I changed out the starter solenoid, I bypassed the solenoid and it runs. But i don’t have the tool to see if i’m getting voltage from the wire to the ignition which i think I’m not. I hear the relay or something click when i go to start it tho.
My 1996 F150 has been giving me a headache with its starter solenoid. I swapped out the original OEM part with a Duralast (which resembles BWD) last week, and although it initially worked fine, it's now acting up again with intermittent starting problems. I'm leaning towards opting for a Motorcraft replacement.
JR do what guy in the video did, go OEM Motorcraft.
hey bro, just got my e150 back with a new solenoid and it was wired up the opposite way round!? was working for a few days now it's clicking once when i try to start it.... Gonna wire it back up the right ay tomorrow see what happens... any thoughts would be appreciated... cheers
Good luck.🤞
Ok I’m working on a 2012 f250 6.2 gas.. the guy at work said once in a great while it will start with the key and other times had to crawl underneath and jump the solenoid.well today the starter Bendix went out. So got a new starter cleaned all the connections put it all together and nothing still.. I have power coming to the starter main wire but when the ignition is turned the s terminal doesn’t get juice.. is it the ignition or neutral safety switch? Or something else..
Yup, also make sure the relay is working properly and not an intermittent fault..Good luck with the diagnosis. Let us know what you find.
Excelent help me with my truck
Awesome!
I always assumed the Ford solenoid was hooked up to a starter with no solenoid at the motor. Now I'm confused. Why even have it? Do those heavy cables carry the signal line for the starter solenoid at the motor? I was surprised to learn that the signal line for a starter motor carries quite a bit of current as well, often ~ 15A for a few seconds. Maybe this allows current going through the ignition switch to be reduced by a using second relay.
There are two things I'd like a Ford engineer to explain to me. 1) Why Ford does the double starter solenoid deal. 2) I still haven't figured out why Ford uses a negative type EVR (egr vacuum regulator) which induces an engine vacuum leak on purpose. Let me know if you can figure it out Dave. 👍
The negative terminal you referred to is actually a positive terminal coming from the battery and the other positive terminal is for going down to the starter motor
Correct, I have pinned an explanation at the top of the comment section. 👍
Distributor pick up coil could also be an intermittent problem like this. So, if this doesn't work that's the next part I'll buy. Good video ,it helped. Changing out started solenoid tomorrow. Bought the cheap one at auto zone for $24. Hope it works. Didn't want to wait two days for amazon plus spend another 10 or so. My 94 fordE-250, did an intermittent no start, no nothing to me twice already. Third motor, 4.9 ,rebuilt trans once and has 305,000 miles and still going. Owned now for 20 years.
The aftermarket solenoids suck. Buy a Motorcraft part and be done in one.
I have a 2002 Ford F-150. I have replaced the battery battery terminals
However the power cable from the battery to the starter is in bad condition
I ran a jumper cable from the positive battery post down To the starter and I can spend the starter but it doesn't engage and it still will not start ....
Please advise
Any help would be greatly appreciated
The first test you do around 4:45 (positive battery terminal to left post on solenoid), if you dont get voltage, what do you think the issue is? I previously had voltage, replaced the solenoid and starter, and still didnt start, not upon checking this again I no longer get voltage on that test. As far as I can tell, my grounds are fine, relays are fine, fuses are fine, and connections are clean. I just get 1 hard click when trying to start followed by a smaller soft click somewhere else. Battery reads proper volts and wont start with jump pack.
Definitely could be resistance in a positive cable but most likely a poor ground connection, unless the starter is defective. Did you test it?
@@ozzstars_cars The starter was a brand new bosch starter, and I am having the exact same issue as previously with the old starter, just 1 hard click. However, I did have voltage on the first test mentioned before swapping the starter. At this point I need to cross the bridge of getting power to the left side of the fender solenoid again. I did a few ground tests earlier and all seemed fine, will have to lookup if I missed something.
11* weather in michigan but when i go to start i cet a click.
when i try to jump solenoid i get nothing.
there were NO SIGNS prior,wedensday it worked,thursday morning it didnt.
maybe the starter froze? or just took a crap?
idk.
you have an awesome informative video but theres nothing between solenoid and starter is there?
its 5:50am and im searching the internet to push off going out in the cold.
please tell me to jab the starter with a broom stick a few times lol
gotta build a barn
Cold weather does crazy things to machines. Good luck, hope you fix it.
My truck will start with bypassing the solenoid but after changing it for a new one i still only can start with bypassing.
Any suggestions? I'm thinking keyswitch...
Junk aftermarket part?
My truck I put ! Starter on it with cylinoid on the side of it ivereplaced the one on firewall also but when I turn the key it clicks one time then the starter just spin@ but doesn't crank I don't know what to do
i just bought a 97 4wd f 150 4.6 , it been having 4wd issues no going back into 2wd, so i was troubleshooting it with vehicle off and I pulled the 2 4WD vacuum solenoid hoses pretty close to the starter relay, when i pulled off the one there was a big whooosh of air sound, then i went in to start the truck all i get now is a loud clunk sounds like its coming from around that relay area , no crank but it has a couple times tried to turn over for 1/2 second out of 50 tries.. battery is testing 12.5 volts. could it have blown a fuse when i did that or does vacuum have anything to do with it starting?
Battery voltage sensor good but the Amps are really important. After 50 tries it may be weak. I really can diagnose what the problem is online but the vacuum hubs on Ford are known to have issues. That should not prevent the truck from starting. Test the battery, starter solenoid and starter if necessary. Make sure the grounds are good and clean.
It was a loose /corroded connection on a wire going to starter or me hitting starter with hammer lightly, I think it was the connection though. when it did start it was in 4wd i switched it out to 2wd and it went to 2 wd but now it wont go into 4wd, dealership put transfer case switch motor on it and it didnt fix it, now there saying gem module, but when i took it from dealership the truck didnt and wont go into overdrive , it will buck at about 45 mph? IDK but at least its starting again. thank you for the video very good job
Thanks for a great video sir, very precise and in depth. Question????? When you were bench testing the solenoid using a negitive battery cable clamp, why was it sparking on the ignition pole/rod?? Just wanted to clairfy was it the positive side jumper clamp to the base? Thank you very much. Appreciate your video and teaching! Cheers from Motown. Oh, New subscriber too. Thanks Glen
The sparks are due to high resistance because the BWD coil is defective and grounding out. Thanks for your comment Robert!
@@ozzstars_cars Thanks for your quick reply Glen. Solenoid (New) checks out fine. No voltage from positive to neg side being transfered in start mode. Hot side is 12.5 volts. I have 67 Mustang gt with a 4 post solenoid. Red/blue wire to the "S" terminal. Solid brown wire to the "I" post. While momma was turning the key to start, I got no Continuity light up on the "S" wire. Appears that could be the problem? Thanks again for your time, it is very much appreciated sir.
@@robertclymer6948 voltage drop test, find out where the short or corrosion is hiding. 😉
@@ozzstars_cars Thnks Glen. Pulled instrument bezel and found a connection not plugged in (was hot) right at the back ignition switch wiring area. Plugged it back in and now have power to the "S" terminal on solenoid. Dumb mistake on my part when I installed the new Ignition switch a few days ago. Duh! Take care, blessings to you from Michigan
@@robertclymer6948 glad you found the short! We all learn from our experiences.
Why if bench test ford ranger starter, it not stay ingauge if i keep small wire on pin. It uningage with start small wire on start point. It must only uningage only when i take of start thin wire, am i right or wrong?
Rrrrrealy hope someone can help me. Thanks guys.
The small bottom post isn't a ground. It's hot while cranking.
Interesting
@@ozzstars_cars it's ussed to run electric fuel pumps until oil pressure is normal. My '85 f350 with a hot start system has electric fuel pumps, and uses that terminal.
I have a 99 navigator and the solenoid was rigged up with a button until it got changed and the wire sparked and ended up getting hot and melted apart. So I got the replacement like you, then ended up getting the og part. But still no start even if I use a screwdriver it’ll just click. I’m going to try replacing some fuses to see if that works thinking when it sparked it might’ve blown certain ones. Any idea what else it could be if not fuses?
I would suggest you look at a wiring diagram of the circuit. It will be very helpful to diagnose the issue.
@@ozzstars_cars I’ll try that
Okay explain to me why when you go to jump the solenoid from on to the firewall why am I getting like a weak spark and it's not cranking over my starter also the battery is fully charged
Did you test the starter? The cables? Sounds like high resistance somewhere along the line.
If you verify your starter motor brushes are still good is it worth it to replace the solenoid or should You just replace the whole starter? Why do fords have a relay under the hood then another solenoid relay on the starter?
Personally I replace it with new, not rebuilt. The firewall solenoid cuts down on the current the ignition switch needs to deal with, it's sort of like a relay.
@@ozzstars_cars thanks
I was referring to the solenoid on the starter not the one on the hood.
When I crank my truck the starter engages when I push the clutch while running. I unplugged ignition wire and jumped the solenoid and it works fine.
1998 Ford Expedition - no start - insert key in ignition and all power to the vehicle goes out. I loosen, move and tighten the battery cables and power returns. Try to start truck and power goes out again. Power sometimes returns after just waiting awhile. Good battery; clean terminals; just attempt to start vehicle and the power goes out. Solenoid jump does nothing except make the truck loose all power. It started and ran fine a week ago and when it sits for two weeks it still starts; until now. Unlock truck and power is on; insert key and turn to Run and a few seconds later the power goes off. Suggestions?
Both battery cables need to be load tested. There may be a break and/or corrosion.
If you jump the firewall solenoid and nothing happens but relay clicks when turning over key could it still be a defective firewall solenoid?
Anything is possible. Test and don't guess.
Glen I know this is an old video but I have the same truck with a very similar problem 1 out of 10 times no crank hear the relay have positive crank signal at the firewall solenoid I was positive it was the firewall solenoid here’s my dilemma if I wiggle the signal wire on the starter solenoid on the actual starter I get a solid crank and fires right up side note when I have the accesories on the radio for a extended amount of time (waiting for my son to get out of school) it will wig out either act like the battery is dead or over engage the starter I just don’t want to throw parts at it as starters for our truck are insanely expensive nowadays. Wanted to know your thoughts
Could be a broken wire or internal corrosion. Those are difficult to diagnose. Only load testing the circuit and checking for voltage drop will determine the direction to solve the mystery. Good luck Matt, let us know what you find.
So far It looks like a dirty ground at the starter confirmed via volt meter it’s that old sang try the stupid simple stuff first ( my truck spends a bit of time off road being an overland rig)I noticed some slow cranking and did some voltage checking and was able to confirm the relay was good have had no slow cranks or starting issues yet 🤞