Came in from the garage and thought I had grease on my phone screen and I kept trying to wipe it off, but it was the wall in the background behind you. That messed me up for a second.
Loved this explanation! Been messing with my truck for almost a week now can’t figure out what’s wrong since it won’t turn on. Replaced the battery twice since it kept reading low voltage but still wouldn’t turn on! Need to check the starter today and hopefully that solves the mystery! Thank you so much for the great information!
Got a problem with my truck struggling to start. Sometimes it fires up fine, other times it struggles but starts. Last night it failed entirely to start - it *almost* started on attempt 1, but attempts 2 and 3 produced a single click. It then started flawlessly after sitting for about five minutes, but the check engine light was suddenly on. I'm willing to bet money the light will be off tomorrow when I start it up, if it starts at all. I experience no problems with the vehicle's other electrical systems at any point during these incidents.
If it's cranking and almost starting then the issue isn't the starter. Starter would give you a no crank issue. So you either have an issue with your fuel system or the ignition system.
@@8020Media Since the other night, the engine has started just fine every single time. Unfortunately, when it started working again, it also suddenly kicked on the check engine light. I pulled the code, and it's for the ignition control module. You called it.
What kinda truck do you have? I have a 2020 Silverado 2500 gas engine, doing the same thing. Slow cranks sometimes then work perfectly other days the some times it doesn’t start.
Note: these notes will apply to American made cars from the early 60’s to the late 80’s, or 90’s. I left the Auto Parts industry at that time, working on my own cars only. I lost touch with the industry when I went back to school and became an engineering technician in electronics. When you hear a starter spinning and it doesn’t drop in RPM, the starter bendix is most likely the problem.the bendix is what engages with the flywheel. It is clutch driven, the clutch being like the one on a mini bike in that when it engages the flywheel and starter is spinning a sprang clutch makes the bendix spin in only one direction. If the bendix is bad it won’t drive the flywheel and allow the starter motor to spin free. If the bendix engages the flywheel gear and the motor spins but doesn’t have enough energy to turn the engine over, either you have a bad battery or a starter that is failing. In that case you can put a volt meter, ( or a multimeter set to dc volts from set at 20 volts or so), and have a friend crank the engine. Typically the voltage with drop to about 9 or 10. Lots while the starter is cranking. If it drops further and the battery load test fine, check the battery cables. If they show little to no resistance they are ok and the terminals are clean the starter is probably at fault. if it clicks either the battery voltage is too low to or is bad. If the battery load test good then the starter solenoid is suspect. On early GM engines the solenoid sits on the starter motor like the starters in the video, and they can be changed independent of the starter motor. Two screws and a tab are all the hold it in place. Some older solenoids had copper on both sides of the contact disc inside the solenoid. Since these are not available as rebuilt units I would take them apart and turn the contact disc around so that there are clean contact surfaces to transfer voltage to the starter motor. But before going nuts you can check the primary windings for continuity with a multimeter, or read the resistance of those windings. They are basically an electromagnet the pulls the piston attached to the starter bendix into the flywheel. If those windings have burned up the start will do nothing except help hold the front wheels on the ground. The assembly is basically dead weight until a new solenoid is installed. On Fords a separate solenoid is mounted on the Passenger side fender well and are easy to replace. Chrysler has their solenoid mounted internally. They are inside the starter. I’ve never bothered to replace those, but have seen very few failures because Chrysler start motors use gear reduction to ease the load on the starter motor, giving them an advantage over other brands.
Great video chief, you share good information as I was getting the rapid click and no start, I changed the starter, it worked for few days and the rapid clicking is back and it does not start...so, I'll keep trying all the issues that you pointed out. Thanks for sharing.
E - Sorry to hear this. Hopefully you figure out the issue. This video could be helpful: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html Thanks for the feedback!
I’m getting all my lights and radio turn on but when I turn my key to start nothing happens at all no noise nothing, but my car has been starting no problems at all and this morning it just didn’t start, can a starter just die out of nowhere?
It could for sure if the solenoid seized up or something. But I wouldn't jump to that conclusion very quickly...check the basics...I'd start with looking at the fuses and checking the battery.
My car won’t start unless I jump start it then it will start up just fine for the rest of the day but the locks on my keys sometimes won’t work that’s how I know my car is not going to start but if the lock button on my keys unlock my doors than I know my car is going to start what could that be or mean?
Had a mobile mechanic to conduct a diagnosis on my Ford territory 2005 model. Vehicle issue was that it couldn't start. He concluded that it was both a battery and an alternator problem. Had both replaced. Car was still abit hazy starting up but got the vehicle up and running. Battery test concluded after the new one that it was charging up but slower than usual. Went for a 50 minute drive, no problems on the road, AC radio all working fine. Got home, turmed car off, turned it back to check if it was still ok 7 seconds later and it was dead. Checked the new battery and it was completely drained. Your thoughts?
K - If your 2005 Ford Territory has a new battery and alternator but the battery drains completely after driving, the issue could be due to a parasitic draw, a faulty alternator connection, or an issue with the battery wiring. Start by inspecting the alternator’s wiring and ground connections to ensure they’re secure and properly transferring power. Perform a parasitic draw test by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and using a multimeter to measure current draw; anything above 50mA indicates an excessive drain. Common culprits include aftermarket electronics, a faulty relay, or a short in the wiring. If the alternator isn’t properly charging despite being new, test the voltage output at the battery while running (should be 13.5-14.5 volts) to rule out any installation issues or a defective alternator. Keep us updated!
I put the key in the ignition lights came on then turned the key, no crank no lights just completely shut off we jumped the car, I took it to get the battery tested at 2 different auto zones and they said the battery and alternator is fine but 1 store said it was the starter but before I spend 300$ on a starter I wanted to get someone else’s opinion if you don’t mind, thank you sir 💯🙏
Thanks! Car died and I could not turn the ignition over and there was no sound. Battery checked out good and I replaced the alternator the week before. Hopefully this narrows it down to a bad started. Got it towed back to the house. Looks like a few hours to replace it on a Chevy Colorado 2015.
Thank you. I thought it was my srarter but didn't really know. But this is very educational. Gives me knowledge and advantage when I have to take it for repair. Women are taken advantage of at repair shops. ❤
Thank you. I found the video helpful for diagnosing the issue with my car not starting. In my case, when I turn on the ignition, the dashboard lights come on as usual, but the engine won't start-there's no clicking or cranking sound. Sometimes, it will start if I knock on the fuel pump. What would you suggest I do in this situation?
Excellent, informative video! Helped me narrow it down and remove any doubt i had as to whether or not it was my starter. Tried jumping it unsuccessfully.
1:52 REMEMBER!! This can also be the sign of a dead battery. A rattling relay, is a dead giveaway of a dying or dead battery. However, the battery may have enough juice to actuate the solenoid itself, but not enough juice to get the starter motor to crank the engine. I've had that situation happen to me once, I was worried the starter gave out but then we tried to jump my car and it started like a champ! This is very possible and it does happen. Left my dome lights on that night prior lol! Good think they're halogen bulbs because it didn't seem to affect their lifespan much but I'm trying not to do that because I don't want to burn them out either. Or have to replace my battery....
Thank u for the detailed explanation. Mine the electronic window and all works but no click sound and car wont start. Changed the starter all good, working.
Replaced my starter 2 wks ago now when I turn the key over the battery dies. Battery, alternator, relays, fuses are all good. Did the same when I changed the starter first time . The starter was a refurbished one
C - If your battery dies immediately when turning the key after replacing the starter, the issue is likely a shorted or faulty starter, a bad ground connection, or a high-resistance power cable. Since this also happened the first time you replaced the starter and you used a refurbished unit, it's possible the starter is drawing excessive current due to an internal short. Check all battery and ground connections, ensuring they are tight and free of corrosion. Inspect the starter power cable for damage, as a frayed or internally corroded wire can cause voltage drops. Try testing the starter outside the vehicle (bench test) to confirm if it’s faulty. If everything checks out, replacing the refurbished starter with a brand-new OEM or high-quality aftermarket unit may solve the issue. Keep us updated!
@ Thank you I believe you’re correct. I replaced it yesterday with another warrantied Starter and it started back up. My ground connection from my battery was a little loose and tightened back up. If anything changes I’ll update 👍
Thanks for the video. I've got a brand new battery and doesn't seem like there's the power that new battery should be giving the starter. Every now and again, it'll only just barely start the engine. Battery has been tested twice now and passed. New terminals, same story. Hoping this is the starter? It's under warranty but not sure how to go about the process
7 - If your new battery tests fine and the terminals are clean and tight, the issue is likely with the starter motor or its connections. A failing starter can exhibit symptoms like weak cranking or intermittent starting despite a healthy battery. Before replacing it, ensure the ground connection from the engine to the chassis is solid and inspect the starter’s power cable for corrosion or damage. If these are good, the starter is the probable culprit. Since it’s under warranty, contact the warranty provider or the shop that installed it and explain the symptoms. They may require a diagnostic test or starter inspection to confirm the issue before authorizing a replacement. Keep us updated!
@@8020Media My wife actually was looking more into it because I'm stumped and found that it may be possible that a low battery in key fob is the culprit. I measured the 3v battery at 2.8 volts which is considered dead, so hoping this may be it. We'll know within 2 weeks. Will update
My 05 titan had been sitting for a while, I am very positive that my battery is good but when I turn the key it’s almost as if everything is surging. My gauge needles will spazz and there is a ton of clicking and what sounds like sparking but there’s no actual sparks. I hope it’s just my starter but the gauges are throwing me off.
K - The clicking, gauge needles spazzing, and surging electrical behavior in your 2005 Nissan Titan after sitting for a while likely indicate a weak or corroded battery connection, bad ground, or failing starter relay rather than just a bad starter. Even if the battery is good, check the battery terminals for corrosion or loose connections, as poor contact can cause voltage drops and erratic electrical behavior. Also, inspect the chassis and engine ground straps, as corroded or loose grounds can lead to intermittent power delivery. The clicking sound suggests the starter solenoid isn’t getting enough voltage, which could be due to a weak connection or a failing starter relay. Keep us updated!
My truck makes weird ticking noise increases with speed when pushing the throttle forward, I can hear it on a hill as-well on idle and when in reverse I don’t hear it until I hit the brake, I’ve done some research and they says it’s my starter bendix hitting sliding back forward hitting my flywheel
My car was starting fine and normal then one night I went to turn it on and it just clicked. (Music, radio everything turned on) and I did it two more time and the same exact thing. Then I waited about 5 minutes and did it again and it turned on like nothing happened and I didn’t have any check engine lights on or nothing. Then the next morning came and it didn’t want to start after the first two tries and I just stopped because it was pouring down rain and I needed to get to work. Any ideas or suggestions.
Big question, i have a 2005 chevy venture. I changed the alternator about a year ago now. Now, after not using the car for about a week the car won't start. When i turn the key and check under the hood, i hear clicking, as you described, and no engine start, I also notice the serpentine band trying to start but stopping and not being able to start. Inside the car, i notice that when i turn the key, the dashboard turns on as well as radio clock but get a reading that says "low fuel" even though we know we have half a tank. After a while, with the key turned, the dashboard lights, including the radio clock, start dying out. We jumped started the car and the cart did start and the engine ran, but after a while we heard the serpentine belt start to give out and the engine just stopped and the same issues repeated while still having the cables connected. My hunch is now that it is either the alternator and/or starter problem since the battery is brand new. Is there anything i should check before doing the tedious job of taking the alternator and getting it checked (im going to move the motor since engineers hate us when they made the venture).
M - Sorry to hear this. The alternator is the most likely culprit. Before removing it: - Test the battery and alternator output. - Inspect the wiring and serpentine belt system. - Check for parasitic draw. If the alternator fails testing, replace it. If it tests fine, focus on wiring or the belt/tensioner system.
@@8020Media thanks for your reply. One of our mechanic friends came over to check it and tried to jump start it but now there is no lights or anything and he said the same that its probably the alternator (its unfortunate since i changed it about a year ago). Im going to take it out and get it tested. Great video, as someone who i just learning about cars to do some maintenance, this helped a lot.
When I try to start my Chevy I hear a weird low whirring and it dies out. I’ve switched out all the cartridge fuses and mini blade fuses. Replaced the battery. But I still can’t get it to start. So I’m assuming it’s the starter?
I'm getting that machine gun noise. My 1997 Lexus kept dying because the battery was not connected properly. I think the connection got loose. Also one of the buttons to lock the door was stuck and kept draining the battery but no one figured that out for 8 years. I have problems with my Lexus because it's old but I found a good mechanic.
S - The machine-gun noise you're hearing is likely from the starter solenoid clicking repeatedly, caused by insufficient voltage reaching the starter. This issue is often related to a weak battery, loose or corroded battery connections, or a failing starter motor. Since you mentioned a loose battery connection and a long-term drain issue from the stuck door lock button, the battery might have been weakened over time. Start by ensuring the battery terminals are clean and tightly connected, fully charge or replace the battery if necessary, and verify the alternator is properly charging the system. Fixing the door lock drain issue will prevent future battery problems. If the noise persists with a healthy battery, the starter itself might need inspection or replacement.
My issue is the cold cranking. I was told maybe because of the weather that it was not cranking due to that so I bought a new battery. It’s doing the same thing but it’s only when it’s cold outside. No issues when temperatures are normal, what should I do?
T - Focus on testing the starter motor, battery connections, and fuel system, and ensure the correct engine oil is being used. If the issue persists, inspect sensors like the Engine Coolant Temperature or Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Praying my starter is bad and not something wrong with the anti theft system on my 97 ford ranger. It acted like a dead battery about 1 out of 3 times trying to start over the last week. Just get a CLICK when trying to turn the key. I was able to push it and bump start it okay (luckily its a stick). Checked the battery is putting out 12.5v and when I bump start and get it running, alternator is putting out 14.2v. Also checked the solenoid is getting power, it sparks when you put a wrench across it.
Question for you. If you test the saterter and it tests good. Now remove the wire between the motor and solenoid. Re-energize the signal wire. Obviousluly.the motor won't run, but why doesn't the solenoid work and retract back and push out the drive? Solenoid will not respond without a the motor hooked up! Why? I think if you remove the solenoid from starter , ground at a mounting screw, apply constant 12v on battery + post on solenoid and energize signal wire. The solenoid should retract back! But they won't. Why not?
@@ChadVanryn NO, I'm saying if you remove the actual load (starter motor). Why will a solenoid not actuate / push out drive if the actaul motor isnt working.
My starter motor was clicking rapidly, so I replaced it with a brand new starter. But with the new starter it's still just giving me rapid clicks? I still think the clicking is from the solenoid engaging and disengaging. Is there anything else that could cause this behavior?
K - If your new starter motor still clicks rapidly, the issue likely lies with insufficient power reaching the starter. Check that the battery is fully charged, providing at least 12.6V at rest and 10V while cranking. Inspect battery terminals, starter connections, and engine ground straps for corrosion or looseness, as poor connections can limit current flow. Test the starter relay and solenoid control circuit to ensure proper operation, as a faulty relay can cause the solenoid to disengage prematurely. Additionally, check the cables for internal corrosion or high resistance that may restrict power delivery. If all components are fine, have the battery load-tested and verify the alternator is charging the system correctly. Keep us updated!
I pulled my starter fulling expecting to replace it and noticed the small wire had broken off the clip that attaches to the solenoid. Did the best I could to reattach it, saved $150.
So my 2012 sonata fails to start once a month it seems. Dashboard, lights everything works. No crank, no start, no sounds no jump start. This has been happening after the starter has been replaced as well. I began disconnecting the battery to reset the alarm system as well as unplugging the connection in the inside fuse box. It will start 30mins later sometimes. Sometimes I have to leave it unplugged overnight. I've changed the start fuse also. The car will start like normal for at least a month and do it all again. I also make sure the steering wheel is not locking up and I try to park on level ground. Any idea what's causing this? Diagnostic checks are getting too expensive.
J - The intermittent no-crank, no-start issue on your 2012 Hyundai Sonata, especially since the starter has already been replaced, is likely caused by a faulty neutral safety switch, an intermittent ignition switch issue, or a problem with the anti-theft system. Since disconnecting the battery or fuse box sometimes allows it to start, the alarm/immobilizer system may be preventing the car from recognizing the key or allowing the starter circuit to engage. Next time this happens, try shifting to Neutral and attempting to start, as a failing neutral safety switch may not detect the car is in Park. Additionally, inspect the starter relay and wiring to ensure there’s no loose connection. If the immobilizer is the issue, using a scan tool to check for stored immobilizer or key recognition errors may help pinpoint the problem. Keep us updated!
I have to crank up my car 2 times for it to start and then after like a week the battery is dead and usually I get it replaced and it’ll turn on again(but I still have to crank it 2 times for it to start)
I - The fact that your car requires cranking twice to start and the battery dies after a week suggests two likely issues: a parasitic drain on the battery and a potential fuel delivery or ignition system problem. The repeated battery failure points to an electrical component or system draining power when the car is off. Perform a parasitic draw test by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and using a multimeter to measure current draw; anything above 50mA indicates a significant drain. As for the need to crank twice, it could be caused by a failing fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, or ignition system component like spark plugs or coils. Keep us updated!
Mines does the one click when i turned the key, but my truck started dying out when i was driving in the snow 2 weeks ago but when it stopped snowing it had ran back to normal
T - The single click when turning the key suggests an issue with the starter motor, its solenoid, or the battery connections, but the earlier stalling in snowy conditions points to potential moisture or corrosion affecting the electrical system. Snow and moisture can cause grounding issues or interfere with the alternator's ability to maintain the battery charge, which may also lead to insufficient power to the starter. Start by checking the battery's state of charge, cleaning the terminals, and inspecting the ground and starter connections. Additionally, inspect the alternator output to ensure it's charging properly, as the snow-related behavior may indicate an alternator or electrical connection issue exacerbated by wet conditions.
My 2013 Honda accord coupe makes a screeching/whine noise when I press the push to start button. Since it started getting colder, it’s been doing this. Both turning it on and off.
@@8020Media nope, there is no lights or anything at all. Everything drives good, it’s just that noise when starting it up. Sounds like it’s coming behind the steering wheel
My clio campus 2008 starts first time every time. However I get a slight grinding sound for half a second after it starts. Does this mean my starter motor is going to die soon?
L - The grinding sound after starting your 2008 Clio Campus is likely due to the starter motor's pinion gear not disengaging from the flywheel quickly enough. This could indicate wear on the pinion gear, flywheel teeth, or the starter solenoid. While it doesn’t necessarily mean the starter motor will fail immediately, if the issue persists or worsens, inspect and possibly replace the starter motor or solenoid to prevent further damage. Checking the flywheel for wear or damage during this process is also recommended. Keep us updated!
@8020Media thank you for the detailed response. My friend is a mechanic and pretty much said exactly what you've described. The only thing that is weird is the fact it doesn't happen every time. When the car is warmed up, it doesn't make the sound. It only happens first thing in the morning usually.
My explorer does the rapid clicking and occasionally will start up. I hook a jump starter up to it, and it fires right up, but as soon as i shut it off, the clicking comes back.
My car for around 2 weeks would crank like 3 to 4 times to start and now it doesn’t start at all but all the lights turn on and I hear a click when I go and turn it but no crank at all what could be the problem
Thank you! The comment about the starter being in an area prone to oil leak discharge has been a huge clue to solving my problem. My 2009 civic si starts intermittently and has gotten progressively worse, yet whenit starts, its as if no problem ever existed. I was thinking of changing the clutch switch, etc. The seemingly unphased response from the car when it does start convinced me its not the starter. its true and not true. My car has had a code P2647 ( something like that) and is leaking oil around that specific sensor. The code has changed to P2646. Today i noticed an even bigger oil leak. SO my theory is that this problem ive delayed has caused this worse starting problem by spraying the starter motor with oil. We shall see how it turns out.
With my 04 Subaru it starts up most of the time but sometimes all it does is click rapidly first I thought it was a battery replaced it after a week same issue had a guy this morning hit the starter for me it started right up alternator is good have a scan tool that can check it and it was at 14.49 volts which is up to spec so gotta buy a starter and install it
I changed the battery and ignition switch with a jump it’ll run and drive fine once i turn it off it’ll click but won’t start no battery light or anything
I have a 99’ acura integra b20b swapped and I turned the car on this morning and it started good. But then I turned it off for 30 min and tried to turn it on but no crank no start but all the lights and power came on.
If you see a battery draw when car is off CAN that still be a starter problem. (Battery shows draw when it is shut off). Thanks for any insight. 2004 Honda Crv.
@@8020Media anytime bro it’s actually been starting everyday since then weneva I have enough money to fix it I will right now money is tight so jus thanking God that it’s starting up still …jus riding on faith literally 🙏🏾❤️
C - No, a bad starter cannot stop the engine while it is running. The starter is only used to crank the engine during startup and does not play any role once the engine is running.
My 2006 impala struggles to start but has power. Once the car is running it has no problems but the moment I turn the car off & try to turn it back on it’ll give me issues. Sometimes it won’t turn on sometimes it’ll turn on slowly after holding the key for a slight longer.
B - If your vehicle keeps blowing the ECM/ECMB fuse and the starter is making a strange noise, it's likely due to an electrical short or excessive current draw from the starter. A failing starter motor with an internal short can overload the circuit, causing the fuse to blow. The noise from the starter suggests it might have damaged components, such as a bad solenoid or worn brushes, exacerbating the issue. Inspect the starter wiring for damage or frayed insulation that might cause a short to ground. Replacing the starter motor and ensuring all associated wiring is intact and secure should resolve the issue. Keep us updated!
Car initially won’t start. Need to turn off and on the key for few times. Then car will start. After few minutes drive it automatically starts again and the next morning it will do The same (giving a crank sound) any idea ?
Y - The issue of your car not starting initially but starting after turning the key a few times, followed by intermittent problems, could be caused by a failing starter motor, weak battery, or faulty ignition switch. The "crank sound" suggests the starter is engaging but struggling, indicating either insufficient power delivery or an internal starter issue. A weak battery or corroded terminals can cause intermittent starting problems, especially in the morning when the engine is cold. Alternatively, a worn ignition switch may not consistently send the proper signal to the starter. Start by testing the battery and alternator, inspecting connections, and checking the starter motor and ignition switch for wear or electrical faults. Keep us updated.
bro i put a new starter on 2hen i cranked it the starter sounded like it kept spinning and it hasnt started since. its 20 degrees so havent got under the car to see whats going 9n but all i hear is a click the battery and cables are good i have a battery charger
D - If your new starter kept spinning when you first cranked it and now only clicks without starting, it’s likely a stuck starter, bad solenoid, or an installation issue. The starter may have failed to disengage properly, causing it to overheat or damage the flywheel teeth. Since it's now just clicking, check the starter connections to ensure they are tight and making proper contact, especially the ground and power cables. Also, try tapping the starter lightly with a hammer while turning the key-if it engages, the solenoid may be faulty. If the problem persists, the starter may be jammed against the flywheel, requiring you to unbolt and reposition it. Cold temperatures can also cause internal resistance, so ensure your battery is fully charged and delivering enough cranking amps. If all else fails, the new starter may be defective and need replacement. Keep us updated!
Ok mine is a 2008 nissan pathfinder 4.0 at night we will be going down hwy and battery guage starts fluctuating headlights go dim or bright depending on battery guage. Oreillys tested alternator, battery, and starter. Alternator and battery test good, starter tests bad at 60 amps. I replaced the alternator in may because it was not putting enough volts out to recharcge battery. They said the starter could be causing a drain on battery while running. We have never noticed starter dragging to start engine. What are your thoughts?
My n54 engine turned off while driving down the road and triggered a engine light, there is power to windows and everything else but the car won't crank and start, the car has fresh oil in it 5 months old, i do remember a couple times before the problems im having now i tried to start the engine and it would make longer cranks then starts up. I don't know what to do 2011 bmw 740li n54 .
i have a 2011 sonata limited with push to start and i hear no crank when starting but all my systems turn on like radio, dash, lights, etc. i do get symbols on my dash such as eps, battery, immobilizer, engine oil pressure, and check engine light. although these symbols all appear i haven’t had a problem starting my car until a recent morning and my best guess is the very cold weather. if you believe it’s something else, please help me
My honda civic starts very well i drive it park it then it have trouble starting i wait a few minutes and it an try again an it starts what you think is the problem
What year is your Honda, I got a 2002 Honda civic ex and today I swapped out the battery bc it didn’t want to turn on. Might change the starter next if it doesn’t work might change the alternator next
I have a Pontiac and just recently it started struggling to fire up. Sometimes it starts up fine but once it turn it off and try again it cranks and won’t turn on. It fires up after a few attempts. Any advice on what it could be?
I have a weird issue myself. Been changing out parts on my Mitsubishi to get it back on the road. Yesterday I had changed the input shaft speed sensor so I had to remove battery tray etc.. well it started back up and drove really well. This morning I come out to test drive again and I turn the key.. no crank.. battery is brand new lights radio work but when you turn it over you see the power drain and you hear a whirling noise but nothing else. I’m lost no codes because I just had took battery off for extended period
My 2005 madza rx8 i went to go start it and it started up just fine then turned it off without letting it warm up and then went to go start it again and it wont crank or start at all. When i turn the key the radio turns off but everything else works. I have a oil leak so im gonna check if oil got on the starter, i went to jump the car and it didnt work. My battery is a couple months old and the fuses seem to all work. The car is a manual so i pop started it and it started up and didnt have any problems staying on but when i shut it back off i got the same problems no crank no start.. im thinking the starter went out...
😤 For the past 2 weeks I’ve been getting a slow crank 1988 Chevy obs GMT400 turn the key nothing, hold it then 2 seconds later she’s running! Well last night Friday November 15 I pull up to the gas station get back in NOTHING!!! All my lights are bright battery read 12.2 volts, hit the starter with a hammer NOTHING so I believe this is my problem! I pray it is!
@ had my mechanic fix it yesterday my brain to my alarm went bad! First he checked to see if the starter was getting power & surprisingly it wasn’t! So he went under the dash as I have a alarm remote start and kill switches so he hot wired it to see if it starts & it did! So the alarm 🚨 brain went bad $30 fix..... now I just have to replace my alarm system the brain antenna & remote control which is under warranty
i should’ve tried the battery test cause my car has trouble starting on the first start of the day but once it’s heated up it has no trouble starting just like if it had no issues so probably is a battery
I have a hummer H2 2004 new battery i tested the alternator its good… did the parasitic drain test and good as well my issue is that the is no click, no start, battery dies over night or in a couple of hours and the dashboard doesn’t turn on so with a dead battery and not a single click it can be the starter?
I got a problem on my car, it starts fine sometimes and sometimes the starter would spin (you can hear it) but it doesn't crank then you try again a few times and it starts and cranks no problem. Could it be a faulty solenoid causing the gear to not engage?
Running into an issue where the car struggles to start and when it does start and I drive around for 30 min turn it off I gotta wait an hour or so before the car starts again any thoughts?
E450 super duty diesel here. All electrical works, when key is turned whirring sounds come from the starter. No clicks. Batteries are tested and full/ healthy. Any ideas??
Sometimes my Nissan Sentra won't start, get 1 click, everything powers off, the hit the push button once, then hit the button to start and starts up... Doesn't do it Everytime, but it's an issue, I don't know if it's the starter or what, only 2yrs old
my acadia now is starting in the morning and then i will go out to a store or something and nothing no crank no nothing but all good electrical after about 10 tries it will start it’s now doing this consistently i tried to swap out the relay and still the issue is there … could it be a failing starter ? i dread this job on a 09 acadia great vids btw
I recently bought a 2015 Infiniti Q50 and been having problems with it starting days after buying it. Took it to Infiniti for multi point inspection and they found no problems and they suggested I remove the after market starter it has. I picked up from Infiniti and it was starting and running with no issues for almost a 3 weeks till a couple days ago it didn’t want to start but then hours later it did. Now it completely doesn’t want to start for the whole day. Ignition lights and everything come on but won’t start. When I try to start it I just hear one click.
@@shaquilefinch7401 till this day don’t know what caused it not to start. Infiniti could not find anything wrong with it either. It only did that when I started it with the push button inside the car. Now I just use the remote start and haven’t had a problem, It’s been a little over a month
I have a 2016 sonata that sometimes just clicks and dashboards power surges. Battery voltages is good but just click but it does crank and fires right up when jumped. Do you believe it’s the starter?
So recently i have been hearing a grinding noise come from my engine bay when starting the car how would i be able to diagnose wether it is my alternator or starter motor
This is the most impressive analysis of starter issues and self diagnostics I've ever seen. I'm an instant subscriber!!!! Great job!
I - Thanks! We really appreciate the feedback!
I thought the exact same thing, very thorough, extremely thoughtful and well laid out explanation. Instant subscriber and thumbs up.
Came in from the garage and thought I had grease on my phone screen and I kept trying to wipe it off, but it was the wall in the background behind you. That messed me up for a second.
J - Haha. Yep, we've moved our setup since this video.
😂
I did the same thing 😭
Same here 😂
😂 me too
Loved this explanation! Been messing with my truck for almost a week now can’t figure out what’s wrong since it won’t turn on. Replaced the battery twice since it kept reading low voltage but still wouldn’t turn on! Need to check the starter today and hopefully that solves the mystery! Thank you so much for the great information!
E - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helped!
Got a problem with my truck struggling to start. Sometimes it fires up fine, other times it struggles but starts. Last night it failed entirely to start - it *almost* started on attempt 1, but attempts 2 and 3 produced a single click. It then started flawlessly after sitting for about five minutes, but the check engine light was suddenly on. I'm willing to bet money the light will be off tomorrow when I start it up, if it starts at all.
I experience no problems with the vehicle's other electrical systems at any point during these incidents.
If it's cranking and almost starting then the issue isn't the starter. Starter would give you a no crank issue. So you either have an issue with your fuel system or the ignition system.
Read the codes when they show up and see what they are. Might be stored even if the engine light doesn't appear.
@@8020Media Since the other night, the engine has started just fine every single time. Unfortunately, when it started working again, it also suddenly kicked on the check engine light. I pulled the code, and it's for the ignition control module. You called it.
T - Keep us updated!
What kinda truck do you have? I have a 2020 Silverado 2500 gas engine, doing the same thing. Slow cranks sometimes then work perfectly other days the some times it doesn’t start.
Note: these notes will apply to American made cars from the early 60’s to the late 80’s, or 90’s. I left the Auto Parts industry at that time, working on my own cars only. I lost touch with the industry when I went back to school and became an engineering technician in electronics.
When you hear a starter spinning and it doesn’t drop in RPM, the starter bendix is most likely the problem.the bendix is what engages with the flywheel. It is clutch driven, the clutch being like the one on a mini bike in that when it engages the flywheel and starter is spinning a sprang clutch makes the bendix spin in only one direction. If the bendix is bad it won’t drive the flywheel and allow the starter motor to spin free. If the bendix engages the flywheel gear and the motor spins but doesn’t have enough energy to turn the engine over, either you have a bad battery or a starter that is failing. In that case you can put a volt meter, ( or a multimeter set to dc volts from set at 20 volts or so), and have a friend crank the engine. Typically the voltage with drop to about 9 or 10. Lots while the starter is cranking. If it drops further and the battery load test fine, check the battery cables. If they show little to no resistance they are ok and the terminals are clean the starter is probably at fault. if it clicks either the battery voltage is too low to or is bad. If the battery load test good then the starter solenoid is suspect. On early GM engines the solenoid sits on the starter motor like the starters in the video, and they can be changed independent of the starter motor. Two screws and a tab are all the hold it in place. Some older solenoids had copper on both sides of the contact disc inside the solenoid. Since these are not available as rebuilt units I would take them apart and turn the contact disc around so that there are clean contact surfaces to transfer voltage to the starter motor. But before going nuts you can check the primary windings for continuity with a multimeter, or read the resistance of those windings. They are basically an electromagnet the pulls the piston attached to the starter bendix into the flywheel. If those windings have burned up the start will do nothing except help hold the front wheels on the ground. The assembly is basically dead weight until a new solenoid is installed. On Fords a separate solenoid is mounted on the Passenger side fender well and are easy to replace. Chrysler has their solenoid mounted internally. They are inside the starter. I’ve never bothered to replace those, but have seen very few failures because Chrysler start motors use gear reduction to ease the load on the starter motor, giving them an advantage over other brands.
Thanks for all the helpful additional color!
Appreciate the lack of fluff and chatter! Lol straight to the point just what I need.
A - Glad you felt this way! Thanks for the feedback.
The solutions to my problems. Thank you. This is best explanation video of a bad starter
E - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Great video chief, you share good information as I was getting the rapid click and no start, I changed the starter, it worked for few days and the rapid clicking is back and it does not start...so, I'll keep trying all the issues that you pointed out. Thanks for sharing.
E - Sorry to hear this. Hopefully you figure out the issue. This video could be helpful: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Thanks for the feedback!
Rapid click for me is always sign for low battery charge. I get my jump starter in that case. What do you do? Did you try jump start when it happens?
I’m getting all my lights and radio turn on but when I turn my key to start nothing happens at all no noise nothing, but my car has been starting no problems at all and this morning it just didn’t start, can a starter just die out of nowhere?
It could for sure if the solenoid seized up or something. But I wouldn't jump to that conclusion very quickly...check the basics...I'd start with looking at the fuses and checking the battery.
mine is doing the same thing at the moment. what did you do to help it start back up?
My car won’t start unless I jump start it then it will start up just fine for the rest of the day but the locks on my keys sometimes won’t work that’s how I know my car is not going to start but if the lock button on my keys unlock my doors than I know my car is going to start what could that be or mean?
Tee - This is most likely a bad battery. You can go to an autozone or any other car shop to get a free battery test. Keep us updated.
Same!
Had a mobile mechanic to conduct a diagnosis on my Ford territory 2005 model. Vehicle issue was that it couldn't start. He concluded that it was both a battery and an alternator problem. Had both replaced. Car was still abit hazy starting up but got the vehicle up and running. Battery test concluded after the new one that it was charging up but slower than usual. Went for a 50 minute drive, no problems on the road, AC radio all working fine. Got home, turmed car off, turned it back to check if it was still ok 7 seconds later and it was dead. Checked the new battery and it was completely drained.
Your thoughts?
K - If your 2005 Ford Territory has a new battery and alternator but the battery drains completely after driving, the issue could be due to a parasitic draw, a faulty alternator connection, or an issue with the battery wiring. Start by inspecting the alternator’s wiring and ground connections to ensure they’re secure and properly transferring power. Perform a parasitic draw test by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and using a multimeter to measure current draw; anything above 50mA indicates an excessive drain. Common culprits include aftermarket electronics, a faulty relay, or a short in the wiring. If the alternator isn’t properly charging despite being new, test the voltage output at the battery while running (should be 13.5-14.5 volts) to rule out any installation issues or a defective alternator. Keep us updated!
I put the key in the ignition lights came on then turned the key, no crank no lights just completely shut off we jumped the car, I took it to get the battery tested at 2 different auto zones and they said the battery and alternator is fine but 1 store said it was the starter but before I spend 300$ on a starter I wanted to get someone else’s opinion if you don’t mind, thank you sir 💯🙏
Y - It certainly sounds like it could be the starter. We have a video that may help here: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Thank you for a clear and informative video. After your comments, I think I might need a new battery.
R - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helped. Keep us updated.
you are the real MVP in my situation.. thank you
J - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it was helpful!
Great video. I had these same symptoms. 💨 Smoke from the hood. Stick black film under the starter. Had to replace it.
K - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it fixed your issues.
Thanks! Car died and I could not turn the ignition over and there was no sound. Battery checked out good and I replaced the alternator the week before. Hopefully this narrows it down to a bad started. Got it towed back to the house. Looks like a few hours to replace it on a Chevy Colorado 2015.
R - Certainly sounds like it could be! Keep us updated.
Me too tonight!! Did you end up finding out if it was the starter?
I appreciate you explaining everything in detail 👍🏻 Thank you very much.
I - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it is helpful.
Thank you. I thought it was my srarter but didn't really know. But this is very educational. Gives me knowledge and advantage when I have to take it for repair. Women are taken advantage of at repair shops. ❤
N - Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the feedback!
Correct 👍
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Thank you. I found the video helpful for diagnosing the issue with my car not starting. In my case, when I turn on the ignition, the dashboard lights come on as usual, but the engine won't start-there's no clicking or cranking sound. Sometimes, it will start if I knock on the fuel pump. What would you suggest I do in this situation?
Z - Thanks for the feedback! We have another video that may be helpful here: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Good concise information efficiently delivered. Thank you, sir!
N - Thanks for the kind words! Hope it helped.
Excellent, informative video! Helped me narrow it down and remove any doubt i had as to whether or not it was my starter. Tried jumping it unsuccessfully.
1 - Keep us updated. Thanks for the feedback! Glad it was helpful.
1:52 REMEMBER!! This can also be the sign of a dead battery. A rattling relay, is a dead giveaway of a dying or dead battery. However, the battery may have enough juice to actuate the solenoid itself, but not enough juice to get the starter motor to crank the engine. I've had that situation happen to me once, I was worried the starter gave out but then we tried to jump my car and it started like a champ! This is very possible and it does happen. Left my dome lights on that night prior lol! Good think they're halogen bulbs because it didn't seem to affect their lifespan much but I'm trying not to do that because I don't want to burn them out either. Or have to replace my battery....
A - Very true! Thanks for sharing this insight.
Thank u for the detailed explanation.
Mine the electronic window and all works but no click sound and car wont start.
Changed the starter all good, working.
C - Nice! Glad the video helped out.
I get weak crank just got new starter in wish me luck installing.
S - Keep us updated. We hope the video helps.
@@8020Media finally got it in also threw 130 amp alternator in also i plan to do more this spring or summer.
When Brushes wear out. You get the false flat battery syndrome with 1 or 2 brushes making contact, resulting in drawing more current.
I - Thanks for the insight.
Yeah.... Thanks thought I was loosing it.
@@8020Media
Bruhes over heating what could be the problem
Replaced my starter 2 wks ago now when I turn the key over the battery dies. Battery, alternator, relays, fuses are all good. Did the same when I changed the starter first time . The starter was a refurbished one
C - If your battery dies immediately when turning the key after replacing the starter, the issue is likely a shorted or faulty starter, a bad ground connection, or a high-resistance power cable. Since this also happened the first time you replaced the starter and you used a refurbished unit, it's possible the starter is drawing excessive current due to an internal short. Check all battery and ground connections, ensuring they are tight and free of corrosion. Inspect the starter power cable for damage, as a frayed or internally corroded wire can cause voltage drops. Try testing the starter outside the vehicle (bench test) to confirm if it’s faulty. If everything checks out, replacing the refurbished starter with a brand-new OEM or high-quality aftermarket unit may solve the issue. Keep us updated!
@ Thank you I believe you’re correct. I replaced it yesterday with another warrantied Starter and it started back up. My ground connection from my battery was a little loose and tightened back up. If anything changes I’ll update 👍
Thanks for the video. I've got a brand new battery and doesn't seem like there's the power that new battery should be giving the starter. Every now and again, it'll only just barely start the engine. Battery has been tested twice now and passed. New terminals, same story. Hoping this is the starter? It's under warranty but not sure how to go about the process
7 - If your new battery tests fine and the terminals are clean and tight, the issue is likely with the starter motor or its connections. A failing starter can exhibit symptoms like weak cranking or intermittent starting despite a healthy battery. Before replacing it, ensure the ground connection from the engine to the chassis is solid and inspect the starter’s power cable for corrosion or damage. If these are good, the starter is the probable culprit. Since it’s under warranty, contact the warranty provider or the shop that installed it and explain the symptoms. They may require a diagnostic test or starter inspection to confirm the issue before authorizing a replacement. Keep us updated!
@@8020Media My wife actually was looking more into it because I'm stumped and found that it may be possible that a low battery in key fob is the culprit. I measured the 3v battery at 2.8 volts which is considered dead, so hoping this may be it. We'll know within 2 weeks. Will update
7 - Sounds good. Keep us updated!
My car does the clicking u talked about so should I just replace my whole starter ?
My 05 titan had been sitting for a while, I am very positive that my battery is good but when I turn the key it’s almost as if everything is surging. My gauge needles will spazz and there is a ton of clicking and what sounds like sparking but there’s no actual sparks. I hope it’s just my starter but the gauges are throwing me off.
K - The clicking, gauge needles spazzing, and surging electrical behavior in your 2005 Nissan Titan after sitting for a while likely indicate a weak or corroded battery connection, bad ground, or failing starter relay rather than just a bad starter. Even if the battery is good, check the battery terminals for corrosion or loose connections, as poor contact can cause voltage drops and erratic electrical behavior. Also, inspect the chassis and engine ground straps, as corroded or loose grounds can lead to intermittent power delivery. The clicking sound suggests the starter solenoid isn’t getting enough voltage, which could be due to a weak connection or a failing starter relay. Keep us updated!
My truck makes weird ticking noise increases with speed when pushing the throttle forward, I can hear it on a hill as-well on idle and when in reverse I don’t hear it until I hit the brake, I’ve done some research and they says it’s my starter bendix hitting sliding back forward hitting my flywheel
Y - It's certainly possible. Keep us posted here.
Hi great video!! Can a starter motor work intermittently?
Thank you so much for sharing. Excellent information! It helped!
C - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helps!
My car was starting fine and normal then one night I went to turn it on and it just clicked. (Music, radio everything turned on) and I did it two more time and the same exact thing. Then I waited about 5 minutes and did it again and it turned on like nothing happened and I didn’t have any check engine lights on or nothing. Then the next morning came and it didn’t want to start after the first two tries and I just stopped because it was pouring down rain and I needed to get to work. Any ideas or suggestions.
G - This video will help with your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Great tips for multi diagnoses out comes thanks for video posting
M - Thanks for the feedback. We hope the video helped.
Big question, i have a 2005 chevy venture. I changed the alternator about a year ago now. Now, after not using the car for about a week the car won't start. When i turn the key and check under the hood, i hear clicking, as you described, and no engine start, I also notice the serpentine band trying to start but stopping and not being able to start. Inside the car, i notice that when i turn the key, the dashboard turns on as well as radio clock but get a reading that says "low fuel" even though we know we have half a tank. After a while, with the key turned, the dashboard lights, including the radio clock, start dying out. We jumped started the car and the cart did start and the engine ran, but after a while we heard the serpentine belt start to give out and the engine just stopped and the same issues repeated while still having the cables connected. My hunch is now that it is either the alternator and/or starter problem since the battery is brand new. Is there anything i should check before doing the tedious job of taking the alternator and getting it checked (im going to move the motor since engineers hate us when they made the venture).
M - Sorry to hear this. The alternator is the most likely culprit. Before removing it:
- Test the battery and alternator output.
- Inspect the wiring and serpentine belt system.
- Check for parasitic draw.
If the alternator fails testing, replace it. If it tests fine, focus on wiring or the belt/tensioner system.
@@8020Media thanks for your reply. One of our mechanic friends came over to check it and tried to jump start it but now there is no lights or anything and he said the same that its probably the alternator (its unfortunate since i changed it about a year ago). Im going to take it out and get it tested. Great video, as someone who i just learning about cars to do some maintenance, this helped a lot.
M - Good to hear it helped. Keep us updated!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
M - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Thanks for this my friend, it was a great and informational info💯
G - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it was helpful!
When I try to start my Chevy I hear a weird low whirring and it dies out. I’ve switched out all the cartridge fuses and mini blade fuses. Replaced the battery. But I still can’t get it to start. So I’m assuming it’s the starter?
Rep - That's what we're thinking.
This is why we should change parts accordingly to the manufacturer's manual. I couldn’t get to work today ToT
B - Sorry to hear about it man. What happened?
I'm getting that machine gun noise. My 1997 Lexus kept dying because the battery was not connected properly. I think the connection got loose. Also one of the buttons to lock the door was stuck and kept draining the battery but no one figured that out for 8 years. I have problems with my Lexus because it's old but I found a good mechanic.
S - The machine-gun noise you're hearing is likely from the starter solenoid clicking repeatedly, caused by insufficient voltage reaching the starter. This issue is often related to a weak battery, loose or corroded battery connections, or a failing starter motor. Since you mentioned a loose battery connection and a long-term drain issue from the stuck door lock button, the battery might have been weakened over time. Start by ensuring the battery terminals are clean and tightly connected, fully charge or replace the battery if necessary, and verify the alternator is properly charging the system. Fixing the door lock drain issue will prevent future battery problems. If the noise persists with a healthy battery, the starter itself might need inspection or replacement.
My issue is the cold cranking. I was told maybe because of the weather that it was not cranking due to that so I bought a new battery. It’s doing the same thing but it’s only when it’s cold outside. No issues when temperatures are normal, what should I do?
T - Focus on testing the starter motor, battery connections, and fuel system, and ensure the correct engine oil is being used. If the issue persists, inspect sensors like the Engine Coolant Temperature or Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Praying my starter is bad and not something wrong with the anti theft system on my 97 ford ranger. It acted like a dead battery about 1 out of 3 times trying to start over the last week. Just get a CLICK when trying to turn the key. I was able to push it and bump start it okay (luckily its a stick). Checked the battery is putting out 12.5v and when I bump start and get it running, alternator is putting out 14.2v. Also checked the solenoid is getting power, it sparks when you put a wrench across it.
Luckily that was it. So glad I didnt have to go tracing down electrical. 3 bolts and a connector was 100 times easier :D
J - Nice! Thanks for coming back and sharing your experience!
Question for you. If you test the saterter and it tests good. Now remove the wire between the motor and solenoid. Re-energize the signal wire. Obviousluly.the motor won't run, but why doesn't the solenoid work and retract back and push out the drive? Solenoid will not respond without a the motor hooked up! Why? I think if you remove the solenoid from starter , ground at a mounting screw, apply constant 12v on battery + post on solenoid and energize signal wire. The solenoid should retract back! But they won't. Why not?
Are you talking about bypassing the solenoid
@@ChadVanryn NO, I'm saying if you remove the actual load (starter motor). Why will a solenoid not actuate / push out drive if the actaul motor isnt working.
My starter motor was clicking rapidly, so I replaced it with a brand new starter. But with the new starter it's still just giving me rapid clicks? I still think the clicking is from the solenoid engaging and disengaging. Is there anything else that could cause this behavior?
K - If your new starter motor still clicks rapidly, the issue likely lies with insufficient power reaching the starter. Check that the battery is fully charged, providing at least 12.6V at rest and 10V while cranking. Inspect battery terminals, starter connections, and engine ground straps for corrosion or looseness, as poor connections can limit current flow. Test the starter relay and solenoid control circuit to ensure proper operation, as a faulty relay can cause the solenoid to disengage prematurely. Additionally, check the cables for internal corrosion or high resistance that may restrict power delivery. If all components are fine, have the battery load-tested and verify the alternator is charging the system correctly. Keep us updated!
I pulled my starter fulling expecting to replace it and noticed the small wire had broken off the clip that attaches to the solenoid. Did the best I could to reattach it, saved $150.
M - Nice! Hopefully it keeps working out for you.
So my 2012 sonata fails to start once a month it seems. Dashboard, lights everything works. No crank, no start, no sounds no jump start. This has been happening after the starter has been replaced as well. I began disconnecting the battery to reset the alarm system as well as unplugging the connection in the inside fuse box. It will start 30mins later sometimes. Sometimes I have to leave it unplugged overnight. I've changed the start fuse also. The car will start like normal for at least a month and do it all again. I also make sure the steering wheel is not locking up and I try to park on level ground. Any idea what's causing this? Diagnostic checks are getting too expensive.
J - The intermittent no-crank, no-start issue on your 2012 Hyundai Sonata, especially since the starter has already been replaced, is likely caused by a faulty neutral safety switch, an intermittent ignition switch issue, or a problem with the anti-theft system. Since disconnecting the battery or fuse box sometimes allows it to start, the alarm/immobilizer system may be preventing the car from recognizing the key or allowing the starter circuit to engage. Next time this happens, try shifting to Neutral and attempting to start, as a failing neutral safety switch may not detect the car is in Park. Additionally, inspect the starter relay and wiring to ensure there’s no loose connection. If the immobilizer is the issue, using a scan tool to check for stored immobilizer or key recognition errors may help pinpoint the problem. Keep us updated!
@8020Media thanks
I have to crank up my car 2 times for it to start and then after like a week the battery is dead and usually I get it replaced and it’ll turn on again(but I still have to crank it 2 times for it to start)
I - The fact that your car requires cranking twice to start and the battery dies after a week suggests two likely issues: a parasitic drain on the battery and a potential fuel delivery or ignition system problem. The repeated battery failure points to an electrical component or system draining power when the car is off. Perform a parasitic draw test by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and using a multimeter to measure current draw; anything above 50mA indicates a significant drain. As for the need to crank twice, it could be caused by a failing fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, or ignition system component like spark plugs or coils. Keep us updated!
Mines does the one click when i turned the key, but my truck started dying out when i was driving in the snow 2 weeks ago but when it stopped snowing it had ran back to normal
T - This can happen when it gets cold!
@@8020Media oh okay so that would mean my starter still good or its no good anymore?
T - The single click when turning the key suggests an issue with the starter motor, its solenoid, or the battery connections, but the earlier stalling in snowy conditions points to potential moisture or corrosion affecting the electrical system. Snow and moisture can cause grounding issues or interfere with the alternator's ability to maintain the battery charge, which may also lead to insufficient power to the starter. Start by checking the battery's state of charge, cleaning the terminals, and inspecting the ground and starter connections. Additionally, inspect the alternator output to ensure it's charging properly, as the snow-related behavior may indicate an alternator or electrical connection issue exacerbated by wet conditions.
Yup it's my starter!!! Thank you
M - Hope the video helped! Keep us posted.
My 2013 Honda accord coupe makes a screeching/whine noise when I press the push to start button. Since it started getting colder, it’s been doing this. Both turning it on and off.
Mine too
S - Could be related to your serpentine belt. Are you getting a check engine light or any engine codes?
@@8020Media nope, there is no lights or anything at all. Everything drives good, it’s just that noise when starting it up. Sounds like it’s coming behind the steering wheel
S - Have you had a shop look at it? We still think it could be the belt.
My clio campus 2008 starts first time every time. However I get a slight grinding sound for half a second after it starts. Does this mean my starter motor is going to die soon?
L - The grinding sound after starting your 2008 Clio Campus is likely due to the starter motor's pinion gear not disengaging from the flywheel quickly enough. This could indicate wear on the pinion gear, flywheel teeth, or the starter solenoid. While it doesn’t necessarily mean the starter motor will fail immediately, if the issue persists or worsens, inspect and possibly replace the starter motor or solenoid to prevent further damage. Checking the flywheel for wear or damage during this process is also recommended. Keep us updated!
@8020Media thank you for the detailed response. My friend is a mechanic and pretty much said exactly what you've described. The only thing that is weird is the fact it doesn't happen every time. When the car is warmed up, it doesn't make the sound. It only happens first thing in the morning usually.
Can a bad starter solenoid be an intermittent issue or is it typically an issue where when it goes bad it permanently stops working.
V - It can definitely be an intermittent issue!
My explorer does the rapid clicking and occasionally will start up. I hook a jump starter up to it, and it fires right up, but as soon as i shut it off, the clicking comes back.
I have the same problem. Have you found out what's wrong
D - This video may help with your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
I figured it out. I had a battery clamp that was corroded, I replaced it, and problem solved
@grantbowen8990 mine was a bad battery connection. One of my clamps was building up corrosion, I replaced it, and that fixed my problem
D - Thanks for coming back and updating! This will certainly help future viewers!
My car for around 2 weeks would crank like 3 to 4 times to start and now it doesn’t start at all but all the lights turn on and I hear a click when I go and turn it but no crank at all what could be the problem
C - This video will be more helpful with your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Thank you! The comment about the starter being in an area prone to oil leak discharge has been a huge clue to solving my problem. My 2009 civic si starts intermittently and has gotten progressively worse, yet whenit starts, its as if no problem ever existed. I was thinking of changing the clutch switch, etc. The seemingly unphased response from the car when it does start convinced me its not the starter.
its true and not true. My car has had a code P2647 ( something like that) and is leaking oil around that specific sensor. The code has changed to P2646. Today i noticed an even bigger oil leak.
SO my theory is that this problem ive delayed has caused this worse starting problem by spraying the starter motor with oil.
We shall see how it turns out.
V - Keep us updated!
Thanks! this video was very helpful.👍
P - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it was helpful.
With my 04 Subaru it starts up most of the time but sometimes all it does is click rapidly first I thought it was a battery replaced it after a week same issue had a guy this morning hit the starter for me it started right up alternator is good have a scan tool that can check it and it was at 14.49 volts which is up to spec so gotta buy a starter and install it
A - Keep us updated! Hope you found your problem.
I changed the battery and ignition switch with a jump it’ll run and drive fine once i turn it off it’ll click but won’t start no battery light or anything
O - We have a video that may be more helpful: ruclips.net/video/cOW5RlAkqi4/видео.html
I have a 99’ acura integra b20b swapped and I turned the car on this morning and it started good. But then I turned it off for 30 min and tried to turn it on but no crank no start but all the lights and power came on.
J - This video may be more helpful with your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Pretty true bro on my 7.3 Diesel the first 2 for true for me when I had a bad starter lol and then I had to buy a new one and replace it
D - Sorry to hear! However, thanks for taking the time to share your experience!
@@8020Media only like a 100 bucks so it was alright the top bolt on it sucks to get to or access but again it’s alright
No matter what I change batt alt starter my car drains battery n I pulled all relays n fuses .Finding nothing
C - Are you getting a check engine light?
If you see a battery draw when car is off CAN that still be a starter problem. (Battery shows draw when it is shut off). Thanks for any insight. 2004 Honda Crv.
M - Certainly could be a starter issue. What symptoms are you experiencing?
Yeah I jus had to hit my starter with a hammer it’s winter season so I’m assuming because it’s very cold outside smh I appreciate this video
B - Thanks for sharing your experience and feedback!
@@8020Media anytime bro it’s actually been starting everyday since then weneva I have enough money to fix it I will right now money is tight so jus thanking God that it’s starting up still …jus riding on faith literally 🙏🏾❤️
Bad starter can stop the motor wile running?
C - No, a bad starter cannot stop the engine while it is running. The starter is only used to crank the engine during startup and does not play any role once the engine is running.
My 2006 impala struggles to start but has power. Once the car is running it has no problems but the moment I turn the car off & try to turn it back on it’ll give me issues. Sometimes it won’t turn on sometimes it’ll turn on slowly after holding the key for a slight longer.
R - We think this video will help with your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
What if it keeps blowing the ecmb fuse the starter has been making a crazy nouise
B - If your vehicle keeps blowing the ECM/ECMB fuse and the starter is making a strange noise, it's likely due to an electrical short or excessive current draw from the starter. A failing starter motor with an internal short can overload the circuit, causing the fuse to blow. The noise from the starter suggests it might have damaged components, such as a bad solenoid or worn brushes, exacerbating the issue. Inspect the starter wiring for damage or frayed insulation that might cause a short to ground. Replacing the starter motor and ensuring all associated wiring is intact and secure should resolve the issue. Keep us updated!
Car initially won’t start. Need to turn off and on the key for few times. Then car will start. After few minutes drive it automatically starts again and the next morning it will do
The same (giving a crank sound) any idea ?
Y - The issue of your car not starting initially but starting after turning the key a few times, followed by intermittent problems, could be caused by a failing starter motor, weak battery, or faulty ignition switch. The "crank sound" suggests the starter is engaging but struggling, indicating either insufficient power delivery or an internal starter issue. A weak battery or corroded terminals can cause intermittent starting problems, especially in the morning when the engine is cold. Alternatively, a worn ignition switch may not consistently send the proper signal to the starter. Start by testing the battery and alternator, inspecting connections, and checking the starter motor and ignition switch for wear or electrical faults. Keep us updated.
Very informative video thank you
S - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helps.
bro i put a new starter on 2hen i cranked it the starter sounded like it kept spinning and it hasnt started since. its 20 degrees so havent got under the car to see whats going 9n but all i hear is a click the battery and cables are good i have a battery charger
D - If your new starter kept spinning when you first cranked it and now only clicks without starting, it’s likely a stuck starter, bad solenoid, or an installation issue. The starter may have failed to disengage properly, causing it to overheat or damage the flywheel teeth. Since it's now just clicking, check the starter connections to ensure they are tight and making proper contact, especially the ground and power cables. Also, try tapping the starter lightly with a hammer while turning the key-if it engages, the solenoid may be faulty. If the problem persists, the starter may be jammed against the flywheel, requiring you to unbolt and reposition it. Cold temperatures can also cause internal resistance, so ensure your battery is fully charged and delivering enough cranking amps. If all else fails, the new starter may be defective and need replacement. Keep us updated!
@8020Media I have an older Impala so I think I'm having a security problem because I put another starter and just click new battery
Mine this morning wouldnt start, it would preheat and click over once and would say to service 4x4, the 2nd time it said to check my filters...
I - This video may be more helpful: ruclips.net/video/cOW5RlAkqi4/видео.html
Hello I have a 2001 nissan xterra 3.3 xe 4wd has no sound,crank,lights or start either does this sound like starter failure issue? Ty
I - Could also be battery related. Have you tested it? Here's a good video for your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
I had a coolant leak that dripped into the valley of the motor (1uzfe ) where the starter is, could that be the problem?
B - If not addressed, it certainly could cause problems.
@@8020Media I have no crank no start
B - This video will likely be helpful for your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Should have watched this before I bought a new battery.
N - Sorry to hear.. Hope you found your solution!
Saaaaammeeee lol
My 2002 envoy, cranks but doesn’t turn over and starts. All my lights works, radio, windows. Any thoughts ?
O - This video may be useful: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Fuel
Ok mine is a 2008 nissan pathfinder 4.0 at night we will be going down hwy and battery guage starts fluctuating headlights go dim or bright depending on battery guage.
Oreillys tested alternator, battery, and starter. Alternator and battery test good, starter tests bad at 60 amps. I replaced the alternator in may because it was not putting enough volts out to recharcge battery.
They said the starter could be causing a drain on battery while running. We have never noticed starter dragging to start engine. What are your thoughts?
N - We think it would be the alternator. This video may be helpful for your research: ruclips.net/video/HKP1vKsIr4g/видео.html
Thanks for this from England.
P - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helps.
My n54 engine turned off while driving down the road and triggered a engine light, there is power to windows and everything else but the car won't crank and start, the car has fresh oil in it 5 months old, i do remember a couple times before the problems im having now i tried to start the engine and it would make longer cranks then starts up. I don't know what to do 2011 bmw 740li n54 .
D - This video may be more helpful for your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
i have a 2011 sonata limited with push to start and i hear no crank when starting but all my systems turn on like radio, dash, lights, etc. i do get symbols on my dash such as eps, battery, immobilizer, engine oil pressure, and check engine light. although these symbols all appear i haven’t had a problem starting my car until a recent morning and my best guess is the very cold weather. if you believe it’s something else, please help me
A - This video may be more helpful for your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Amazing informative video! Thank you
K - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
I agree...excellent video thank you...🥰
A - Thanks for the feedback!
My honda civic starts very well i drive it park it then it have trouble starting i wait a few minutes and it an try again an it starts what you think is the problem
T - Check on the main relay and your ignition components.
What year is your Honda, I got a 2002 Honda civic ex and today I swapped out the battery bc it didn’t want to turn on. Might change the starter next if it doesn’t work might change the alternator next
I have a Pontiac and just recently it started struggling to fire up. Sometimes it starts up fine but once it turn it off and try again it cranks and won’t turn on. It fires up after a few attempts. Any advice on what it could be?
R - We have a video on this that we think may be helpful: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
2016 nissan sentra makes a banging noise when turning on. Sometimes it does it other times it dont.
E - Interesting.. Does it sound like the engine is banging to the frame?
@@8020Media yes sure does
Also, it sounds like at the end, the starter loses power, and suddenly the car turns on.
E - Could be worth to check your engine mounts.
I have a weird issue myself. Been changing out parts on my Mitsubishi to get it back on the road. Yesterday I had changed the input shaft speed sensor so I had to remove battery tray etc.. well it started back up and drove really well.
This morning I come out to test drive again and I turn the key.. no crank.. battery is brand new lights radio work but when you turn it over you see the power drain and you hear a whirling noise but nothing else. I’m lost no codes because I just had took battery off for extended period
M - This video may help with your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
My 2005 madza rx8 i went to go start it and it started up just fine then turned it off without letting it warm up and then went to go start it again and it wont crank or start at all. When i turn the key the radio turns off but everything else works. I have a oil leak so im gonna check if oil got on the starter, i went to jump the car and it didnt work. My battery is a couple months old and the fuses seem to all work. The car is a manual so i pop started it and it started up and didnt have any problems staying on but when i shut it back off i got the same problems no crank no start.. im thinking the starter went out...
T - Possible. This video may also be helpful for your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
@@8020Media I think it could a bad solenoid because my starter spins but I'm not sure if it's something electrical with my radio and amp hookup
T - Certainly possible! Keep us updated.
😤 For the past 2 weeks I’ve been getting a slow crank 1988 Chevy obs GMT400 turn the key nothing, hold it then 2 seconds later she’s running! Well last night Friday November 15 I pull up to the gas station get back in NOTHING!!! All my lights are bright battery read 12.2 volts, hit the starter with a hammer NOTHING so I believe this is my problem! I pray it is!
D - Thanks for sharing! Keep us updated.
@ had my mechanic fix it yesterday my brain to my alarm went bad! First he checked to see if the starter was getting power & surprisingly it wasn’t! So he went under the dash as I have a alarm remote start and kill switches so he hot wired it to see if it starts & it did! So the alarm 🚨 brain went bad $30 fix..... now I just have to replace my alarm system the brain antenna & remote control which is under warranty
D - Nice! Thanks for the update.
Clicking while driving 4years never changed it car won't start /smoke coming from engine after 10 tries .. definitely changing the starter
L - This video may be more helpful for your research: ruclips.net/video/cOW5RlAkqi4/видео.html
i should’ve tried the battery test cause my car has trouble starting on the first start of the day but once it’s heated up it has no trouble starting just like if it had no issues so probably is a battery
Aero - Sounds like a potential battery issue!
what about a starter relay fuze?
T - Certainly a possibility.
Do you have a video on factory car alarm randomly going off😢. I have a 2015 honda accord❤
T - We do not currently, but we'll add it to the list!
I have a hummer H2 2004 new battery i tested the alternator its good… did the parasitic drain test and good as well my issue is that the is no click, no start, battery dies over night or in a couple of hours and the dashboard doesn’t turn on so with a dead battery and not a single click it can be the starter?
S - This video may be more helpful: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Can another symptom of a bad starter, start the vehicle cold, but after it runs for a while, not start it. Has a new battery. Just curious.
I got a problem on my car, it starts fine sometimes and sometimes the starter would spin (you can hear it) but it doesn't crank then you try again a few times and it starts and cranks no problem. Could it be a faulty solenoid causing the gear to not engage?
S - This video may be helpful with your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Running into an issue where the car struggles to start and when it does start and I drive around for 30 min turn it off I gotta wait an hour or so before the car starts again any thoughts?
B - This video will likely be helpful for this:
ruclips.net/video/_80Lcb0_aGY/видео.html
Good battery, new alternator, starter sounds whiney and like it struggling to start it but does. What's that mean?
S - It could be the starter going out. This video may be helpful for your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
E450 super duty diesel here.
All electrical works, when key is turned whirring sounds come from the starter. No clicks. Batteries are tested and full/ healthy.
Any ideas??
D - This video may be helpful with your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
Sometimes my Nissan Sentra won't start, get 1 click, everything powers off, the hit the push button once, then hit the button to start and starts up... Doesn't do it Everytime, but it's an issue, I don't know if it's the starter or what, only 2yrs old
B - Could be a sign of a starter starting to fail.
Ended up being the battery, had a bad cell... Weird being 2yrs old😂
B - Thanks for updating! Will certainly help future viewers.
my acadia now is starting in the morning and then i will go out to a store or something and nothing no crank no nothing but all good electrical after about 10 tries it will start it’s now doing this consistently i tried to swap out the relay and still the issue is there … could it be a failing starter ? i dread this job on a 09 acadia great vids btw
C - It certainly could be. We have another great video that may be helpful here: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
I recently bought a 2015 Infiniti Q50 and been having problems with it starting days after buying it. Took it to Infiniti for multi point inspection and they found no problems and they suggested I remove the after market starter it has. I picked up from Infiniti and it was starting and running with no issues for almost a 3 weeks till a couple days ago it didn’t want to start but then hours later it did. Now it completely doesn’t want to start for the whole day. Ignition lights and everything come on but won’t start. When I try to start it I just hear one click.
S - This vide may be helpful for your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
😂🎉 cam sensor
@@shaquilefinch7401 till this day don’t know what caused it not to start. Infiniti could not find anything wrong with it either. It only did that when I started it with the push button inside the car. Now I just use the remote start and haven’t had a problem, It’s been a little over a month
Not starting new starter timing sensors battery fuses are all good any idea
K - This video may help with your research: ruclips.net/video/cOW5RlAkqi4/видео.html
@8020Media not clicking either doesn't do anything
K - ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html This one should help here
I have a 2016 sonata that sometimes just clicks and dashboards power surges. Battery voltages is good but just click but it does crank and fires right up when jumped. Do you believe it’s the starter?
V - This video may be helpful for your research: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html
So recently i have been hearing a grinding noise come from my engine bay when starting the car how would i be able to diagnose wether it is my alternator or starter motor
M - We have a great video that may help here: ruclips.net/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/видео.html