I just want to say that you are an excellent teacher. I know a fair amount about car repair and have replaced a number of starters in my day, but never have I heard someone so thoughtfully and thoroughly explain the difference between the 2 housings, their functions, the steps to test continuity, what it means, and how to verify you are placing the test leads in the correct places. I learned something by watching you and I'm sure that people with less experience at this than me will be thrilled that they were able to pick up this very valuable information in the correct way from a qualified, very well versed source. I think we all, at some point in our lives, will hear that dreaded "click" when we turn our key. You have made a fan out of me. Super job!
The clicking could be from low voltage from weak battery and/or bad connections, and the solenoid is a large switch for large current amps, not voltage. Your continuity test is not under load which may show it as ok, but under load the contacts may not pass current from pitted contacts but read ok on multimeter. But it's a place to start.
@@elaineclementsfinn1872 I'm having this issue on my Hiace. I haven't got a multimeter yet but when I half turn the key I can't use both the radio and headlights. This tells me it's the battery but it's fully charged and the connections all seem in good order. I have been having issues with my viper alarm though which is throwing me off. Not keen on forking out for a starter motor if it isn't the issue.
When the starter stops turning over every time but just some of the time.... the issue is the copper contacts inside the solenoid becomes pitted from sparking. Take the starter off...take the solenoid off and disassemble it. Sand down the large round copper pads smooth. Put it all back together. This would make a good video to make
I think this might be happening to mine. I bought a new starter put it on and a month later I tried to crank just got one click my battery is new and alternator is good. The starter even though said it's new might be a bad starter.
It’d be better if you show the actual sound that the car makes, you explain how to fix the problem well but I’m not sure if it’s the same clicking sound my car is making lol. I’ve heard other RUclipsrs do the clicking sound with their mouth then they show their car sound and it’s completely different than my car :s
Well done video. Just one thing mentioned which is not correct. The terminal referred in the video as negative is not really a negative, it is the point of supplying 12 volt to he starter motor when at the moment of cranking via the solenoid contact. There is no negative terminal in starters, the starter body is what supply negative to the starter.
Ok so would this maybe be why for some reason when my car decides not to start , I get it to start only by hooking up a battery starter with the positive clamp on the negetive battery terminal ?? I dont even know why I did that but I figured this out by accident lol. Does this make sense to you ?
Continuity or resistance test may be a good indicator of whether a part or conductor is bad or has failed, but is not necessarily an accurate way to tell if the part or connection is good or functioning properly. Resistance or continuity is checked with a circuit not under a load. For more accurate results even voltage testing should be performed while circuit is activated rather than in a static state. Voltage drop or amperage draws are more reliable and better indicator of whether the system is functioning properly or experiencing adverse conditions.
sir I have the same problem though mine will start with 1 click then other time 3 to 4 clicks .... when it's cracking it directly through... not weak but strong . thank u for your video hope you can add some tips.
that was an awesome video. exactly what i was looking for... but can you explain why the s lead has continuity with the larger solenoid, or why with no continuity the starter us bad
I need to put my two cents in as a mechanic of 30 years both on cars and airplanes here it goes the information given on this video is very good it's accurate but to let you know I understand people come to RUclips because they're either fixing their own cars or they cannot afford a car repair bill don't let these things scare you all cars make noises for one reason or another and a lot of mechanics will rip you off they'll tell you it's something major when all it is is something very minor and ignore car shield your missions light will come on your sensor routinely checks or problems sensors excuse me if you want to spend $500 on a loose connection go right ahead again this information is very useful for people that fix cars but for the lay person avoid the big mechanics like Firestone they'll work you off find somebody that you can make arrangements with through referral a decent mechanic good luck
I'm pretty sure 1 click means a bad relay, or the wiring leaving the relay is bad. There should be a relay somewhere between your starter and the battery. Both the relay and the starter click. So if you hear one click and not two, I think that means power is making it to the relay, but not from the relay to the starter. I'm about to go troubleshoot my own no-start tomorrow. 99% sure its a bad start motor/solenoid, so I have a new one on hand in case the hammer trick doesnt work. I tried ordering a new relay as well, just in case my diagnoses was wrong. Sadly, Mitsubishi cancelled the order and told me those relays are out of stock, with an indefinite eta... Meaning its basically unobtanium, at least from OEM. Fingers crossed it's not a relay.
Can you make a video showing how to hook up and use a remote starter switch correctly to crank a vehicle when a helper is not around to crank the vehicle sir? It will be a great and very helpful video!
terminal S is actually a positive terminal ( after ignition ), why does it have to have continuity with ground terminal, this is actually short circuit plus to ground.. please explain
My problem was the negative battery post cable. The smaller black cable that is grounded to the truck frame. Replace the battery terminal and clean the smaller neg cable. Replace it ASAP. Ford Ranger 2003.
Touching the starter body and S connector for continuity is the same as touching the negative and S connector because the negative is ground with the car body.
Having intermittent starting issues with a CLICK as I turn key. Seems to start fine cold but as car gets hot, I can get the no start condition. Is solenoid getting overheated and temporarily failing? Will seem to start if car cools.
Help . Used portable jumper took a bit but then I have lights radio but when I turn key it just clicks it taps alot when I turn key . Won't start . Then if I disconnect jumper and go inside house out stuff away come out test if lights work it's completely dead again. Is it lights , starter , a relay . Help !!
mine clicking every one or 2 seconds when the key is turned. I'm always having ignition problems with my ford escape but I think the starter may be bad as well.
Thanks for this video. I currently have a 2012 Dodge Durango Citadel. My Durango has a V8 engine and the check engine light started coming on. It started sputtering/misfiring and driving like it had no power. The Dodge dealership found code P0562: Activation control code MDS solenoid--bad cylinder six(located the pistones). I was also told need to replace the gaskets (top ones). My Durango only has 66,726 miles on it. I checked with Dodge about any recalls and they are no recalls on this issue, however, Google is showing a number of Durango owners with this same problem.
It would be helpful if we could hear the sound that you are referencing bc I want to be sure it is the same before going through all of that. Otherwise very helpful video. Thanks!
Okay, what if it has good battery (all terminals are clean good cables and all), good starter relay, there is continuity between S terminal and big cylinder and negative bolt on the solenoid but it only clicks once??. also I was able to rotate the crank I didn't feel any force. will that mean it has a bad stater? Mine is hard to remove so I wanted to make sure before removing it. Thank you.
Hi Iv got a Fiat 128 Rally 1974 My starter keep on cranking and not start at all, i had to pul battery wire to stop it. After days of strangle i find that the points plastic on it melt little and touching the earth. After fixed the points starter stop keep on cranking. And car starts 100% Thing that confuse me totaly. How can points that touch earth like my car did. Let the starter keep on cranking. How is that possible??? My coil got 3 wires on. 1. Ignition wire to + 2. Wire to points on - 3. Wire also on - (this wire i got no idee where it goes) Realy realy hope you can give me the answer on this. 😁😁😁
Not sure this test diagnosis a stuck solenoid … the electrical continuity will still test good as you demonstrate but if the solenoid is stuck the armature will never get full juice from the battery.
Not only does it not do anything, but it blows my starter fuse. My homeboy in the hood was able to start my truck without the fuse. I need to know how he does it cause I'm currently stuck far from home and far from the auto parts store
I have a 350z - I turn the key - it lights up but nothing. I checked the battery - good and it's new - I checked the fuses - looks good. I checked all the relays - good - I checked the clutch safety switch on the clutch - little button - good - I even put in a jumper - still nothing. The clutch safety switch did break and I put alligator clips to bypass the switch and the car started --- However, now with even alligator clips, it won't start. ---------------------------- I am thinking -- could the switch have been fine and it was just the starter all this time? My car is a 2005 but it only has about 33k on the engine/car. I will try this tester - could the starter cause the car to just turn the key and nothing but every electrical thing in the car works?
@@CarsNToys where do I connect my voltmeter to do a voltage drop test to verify my starter motor is bad? I’ve been told it’s quite simple to do. Please explain
In my car electrician change solenoid and install relay for starter motor but still click sound coming and car is not starting, kindly explain what could be wrong and needs repair
You only test the coil windings in the starter, if that is bad it won't even click, secondly you forgot to check the switch inside that closes when the plunger is engage, that sends the voltage from the battery terminal to the motor
Ok this needs to be better explained with the clicks. It's to different clicks. When you hear just in the on position indicate the cylinder is good the other as you turn the key than hearing clicks means it's bad.
my 05 escape sometimes it will turn on with one key turn but sometimes it will need like 3 or 4 key turns to start also i dont hear a clicking when it wont start but more of a clacking type noise again it doesnt do this all the time but it seems it might be getting worse any help would be appreciated thank you
I have a similar problem on my car. Yesterday I tried to turn it on and when I turn the key, only one click is heard and the engine does not turn, I tried many times and every time only that one click is heard and the car will not turn to try to start. the battery is new and excellent and that is not the reason. after that I tried to push the car only half a meter forward and sat in it and turned the key and the car immediately started normally, I turned it on and off without any problem 20 times in a row, the whole day wherever I went the car started normally, The next day I sat in the car to go to work and suddenly I turned the key and again the click sound, the car does not start. I push the car 1 m forward, sit in it, close the door, turn the key and start it without any problems.. I don't know why it happens, do you maybe know or suspect something? will I constantly have to manually push the car forward a few centimeters for it to start after that? thank you in advance for your help!!
In my case, it turns out nothing was faulty: i followed the wire from the battery to the solenoid, and.... it was loose! Not loose enough to fall off, but loose enough for intermittant starts. So yeah, check your wires!
My tractor didnt start after i came back from the store and it said ratatatt for a while but after a while only clicked once we jump started it and i got home and tested batterys and theyre full so is it the solenoid
Great video. When I drive my 1965 c10 for over an hour and I turn the truck off it usually takes 10 minutes to restart. Engine won't crank not even the engine fan turn on. It sounds like no power at all. Any suggestions?
Don’t know if you still have your problem but you may want to look at came chaft position sensor throttle position sensors or crank shaft position sensor. Hope this helps!
I have the same issue and I have a new high cranking battery I’m starting to think it’s the started or a relay but the car often starts after a jump any updates?
HA ! ..... before you go and take the starter/solenoid assembly out of the car, remove the battery and have it LOAD tested. Do the easy things first and save yourself some headaches ! A battery that is on its "last leg" will make your solenoid "click" (and do nothing else) every time you try to start the car!
Do starter solenoids suddenly go out, or will it intermittently not start before not starting at all? My car suddenly won't start at all. The battery is good, just replaced it and all lights work in the "on" position. When you turn the key to the "start" position the radio functions go out but nothing else. I should also mention there is a constant electronic whine coming from the engine compartment when the key is in the "on" position. That whine usually only stays on for a few seconds but now it DOESN'T SHUT UP.
@@anthonymarin584 It ended up being the starter solenoid. Not sure if it caused the whine but, I had the starter-solenoid assembly replaced and haven't had any issues since.
@@anthonymarin584 Might be as simple as having a professional replace that section of wire. A bad solenoid might be causing it to melt/burn though. You can test the solenoid by giving it a few good whacks with a hammer and see if the car will start afterwards. Its not guaranteed to work though.
My F150 sounds like a machine gun, ba ba ba ba (battery is good). Could a very bad storm and water cause a starter/solenoid problem? In was fine, then we had a huge storm (S. Louisiana, so I mean a real storm) and she wouldn't crank back up.
dead battery, we tried a new one, but that one dint have enough amps, we charged this for 18 hours and it was enough. My alternator was faulty, turns out.@@empiresrikesfat
Yeah my 2001 v6 mustang does this sometimes it clicks one time but won’t crank but once it happens it won’t start there were two different sounds I was hearing though one from the starter clicking and one from something else after continuously trying to start it about 6 times right back to back it started but I don’t want to have to do that once I have it started and turn it off it starts right back up does this mean my starter could be bad if not what else could possibly be bad and how do I go about fixing it?
When it clicks is it draining the battery? I noticed that the newly charge battery had the dome light back on but as soon as I tried to turn the key the dome light went off. and clicking continued until I turned the key all the way to the right.
@@sibp901 I had bought a battery from a salvage yard They said that the battery had a good charge I put our home charger on twice and thought the battery was not the problem I ended up taking it to an alternator guy He charged the battery on his charger and IT STARTED. So it was the battery. Cost was 4 dollars for his charge.
I have a 1995 f 350 7.3 L diesel. It suddenly would not crank. All I heard was a single click. After trying few things with no luck, I then hot wired a piece of wire to the + post on the battery and then I touched the other end to the S terminal (that has thin red wire , the trigger wire connected ) on the starter solenoid, The starter cranked and ,the engine started. I Single click didn't mean the solenoid was bad. ... Still trying to figure out why the trigger wire is not getting power.
I'm about to replace my starter, it seems like when this crap starts happening sometime you have to keep going and before long you have spent hundreds on a problem that is overlooked by you and the other mechanics. The new set of eyes will fix your car, its happened several times to me and it will cause some people to get rid of their car because of a CHEAP fix that no one can find.
I just want to say that you are an excellent teacher. I know a fair amount about car repair and have replaced a number of starters in my day, but never have I heard someone so thoughtfully and thoroughly explain the difference between the 2 housings, their functions, the steps to test continuity, what it means, and how to verify you are placing the test leads in the correct places. I learned something by watching you and I'm sure that people with less experience at this than me will be thrilled that they were able to pick up this very valuable information in the correct way from a qualified, very well versed source. I think we all, at some point in our lives, will hear that dreaded "click" when we turn our key. You have made a fan out of me. Super job!
The clicking could be from low voltage from weak battery and/or bad connections, and the solenoid is a large switch for large current amps, not voltage. Your continuity test is not under load which may show it as ok, but under load the contacts may not pass current from pitted contacts but read ok on multimeter. But it's a place to start.
Terrific points. Something I went over in the previous vid: ruclips.net/video/rE_gNyTRX3I/видео.html
My van intermittently won't start. Most of the time I just hear a pift sound. Still the starter ?
@@elaineclementsfinn1872 I'm having this issue on my Hiace. I haven't got a multimeter yet but when I half turn the key I can't use both the radio and headlights. This tells me it's the battery but it's fully charged and the connections all seem in good order.
I have been having issues with my viper alarm though which is throwing me off. Not keen on forking out for a starter motor if it isn't the issue.
is there a way i can get in contact with you if your willing to hep me over the phone i have a video with sound but i can explain what i was doing.
@@CarsNToys 8
When the starter stops turning over every time but just some of the time.... the issue is the copper contacts inside the solenoid becomes pitted from sparking. Take the starter off...take the solenoid off and disassemble it. Sand down the large round copper pads smooth. Put it all back together.
This would make a good video to make
would really like to see that video ha.
Yup the contacts and the plunger, $20 lol
I think this might be happening to mine. I bought a new starter put it on and a month later I tried to crank just got one click my battery is new and alternator is good. The starter even though said it's new might be a bad starter.
Why not just buy a new starter
@@mightyhealthy8227 45 mins of DIY or $700+ for new starter
I love you guys who post this stuff on RUclips. That's all. I just love you. Thank you!
It’d be better if you show the actual sound that the car makes, you explain how to fix the problem well but I’m not sure if it’s the same clicking sound my car is making lol. I’ve heard other RUclipsrs do the clicking sound with their mouth then they show their car sound and it’s completely different than my car :s
Thank you! I came to this video hoping to hear the sound. And nada....
Same
Same
@@libradamontano2340 same
@@libradamontano2340 I don't know why folks seem to not know to allow the watchers to see or hear the symptoms. smh
Wow! Great tutorial video to test the starter solenoid! Thank you so much for posting!
He is a real gentleman - smart and humble. Subscribed.
Well done video. Just one thing mentioned which is not correct. The terminal referred in the video as negative is not really a negative, it is the point of supplying 12 volt to he starter motor when at the moment of cranking via the solenoid contact. There is no negative terminal in starters, the starter body is what supply negative to the starter.
Read above everyone! Glad someone else pointed this out :)
Ok so would this maybe be why for some reason when my car decides not to start , I get it to start only by hooking up a battery starter with the positive clamp on the negetive battery terminal ?? I dont even know why I did that but I figured this out by accident lol. Does this make sense to you ?
Continuity or resistance test may be a good indicator of whether a part or conductor is bad or has failed, but is not necessarily an accurate way to tell if the part or connection is good or functioning properly. Resistance or continuity is checked with a circuit not under a load. For more accurate results even voltage testing should be performed while circuit is activated rather than in a static state. Voltage drop or amperage draws are more reliable and better indicator of whether the system is functioning properly or experiencing adverse conditions.
thanks for the additional great tip. 👍
sir I have the same problem though mine will start with 1 click then other time 3 to 4 clicks .... when it's cracking it directly through... not weak but strong . thank u for your video hope you can add some tips.
What does single click indicate ??
that was an awesome video. exactly what i was looking for... but can you explain why the s lead has continuity with the larger solenoid, or why with no continuity the starter us bad
I need to put my two cents in as a mechanic of 30 years both on cars and airplanes here it goes the information given on this video is very good it's accurate but to let you know I understand people come to RUclips because they're either fixing their own cars or they cannot afford a car repair bill don't let these things scare you all cars make noises for one reason or another and a lot of mechanics will rip you off they'll tell you it's something major when all it is is something very minor and ignore car shield your missions light will come on your sensor routinely checks or problems sensors excuse me if you want to spend $500 on a loose connection go right ahead again this information is very useful for people that fix cars but for the lay person avoid the big mechanics like Firestone they'll work you off find somebody that you can make arrangements with through referral a decent mechanic good luck
Sir, where do you live so I can hire you to fix my car??
solenoid supplies amperage to the starter, voltage is consistent.
i salute bro, for every video you make... very helpful and details....
da best 8 minutes in my life! ❤️
thanks bro..
Great, professional and useful video. Thanks so much for sharing it.
Aside from the starter, battery and seized engine what else can cause single click when trying to start it?
Thank You! What does just one "klick" mean?
Possible weak battery
@@burujuguru Battery is Good. Still does one click, takes a few tries then starts, click changes tone before car starts. Thank You for replying.
@@amandazeller787 I'm having the same issue. One click, then it starts. Battery alternator and starter tested fine
@@devinchambers8202 mine is doing the same thing
I'm pretty sure 1 click means a bad relay, or the wiring leaving the relay is bad. There should be a relay somewhere between your starter and the battery.
Both the relay and the starter click. So if you hear one click and not two, I think that means power is making it to the relay, but not from the relay to the starter.
I'm about to go troubleshoot my own no-start tomorrow. 99% sure its a bad start motor/solenoid, so I have a new one on hand in case the hammer trick doesnt work. I tried ordering a new relay as well, just in case my diagnoses was wrong. Sadly, Mitsubishi cancelled the order and told me those relays are out of stock, with an indefinite eta... Meaning its basically unobtanium, at least from OEM. Fingers crossed it's not a relay.
Can you make a video showing how to hook up and use a remote starter switch correctly to crank a vehicle when a helper is not around to crank the vehicle sir? It will be a great and very helpful video!
Tho straight to the point and clearly explained tho you
My 2006 Impala does the click, hesitant,than starts. So what's going on with that? Got good battery,new starter?
If there’s no click and no start but when I turn key to start position start smoking will this be the starter truck was just running 2 mins ago fine?
Sounds like a battery problem haha, check your battery to make sure it's secured and not bumping around and touching other metal parts.
My bronco ii starter 199” had two 17mm bolts holding it on.
Thank you I’m in class right now and I forgot completely how to check the solenoid
terminal S is actually a positive terminal ( after ignition ), why does it have to have continuity with ground terminal, this is actually short circuit plus to ground.. please explain
Thank you so much for your nice explanation and your help.
My problem was the negative battery post cable. The smaller black cable that is grounded to the truck frame. Replace the battery terminal and clean the smaller neg cable. Replace it ASAP. Ford Ranger 2003.
Great video. Thank you so much!
Touching the starter body and S connector for continuity is the same as touching the negative and S connector because the negative is ground with the car body.
Having intermittent starting issues with a CLICK as I turn key. Seems to start fine cold but as car gets hot, I can get the no start condition. Is solenoid getting overheated and temporarily failing? Will seem to start if car cools.
Help . Used portable jumper took a bit but then I have lights radio but when I turn key it just clicks it taps alot when I turn key . Won't start . Then if I disconnect jumper and go inside house out stuff away come out test if lights work it's completely dead again. Is it lights , starter , a relay . Help !!
Super excellently explained video, with great clarity, & quality......
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
So nice of you
mine clicking every one or 2 seconds when the key is turned. I'm always having ignition problems with my ford escape but I think the starter may be bad as well.
What about the positive to housing? Will that give same results?
Thanks for this video. I currently have a 2012 Dodge Durango Citadel. My Durango has a V8 engine and the check engine light started coming on. It started sputtering/misfiring and driving like it had no power. The Dodge dealership found code P0562: Activation control code MDS solenoid--bad cylinder six(located the pistones). I was also told need to replace the gaskets (top ones). My Durango only has 66,726 miles on it. I checked with Dodge about any recalls and they are no recalls on this issue, however, Google is showing a number of Durango owners with this same problem.
It would be helpful if we could hear the sound that you are referencing bc I want to be sure it is the same before going through all of that. Otherwise very helpful video. Thanks!
Okay, what if it has good battery (all terminals are clean good cables and all), good starter relay, there is continuity between S terminal and big cylinder and negative bolt on the solenoid but it only clicks once??. also I was able to rotate the crank I didn't feel any force. will that mean it has a bad stater? Mine is hard to remove so I wanted to make sure before removing it. Thank you.
did you need new starter motor?
@@empiresrikesfat Yes the starter motor was bad.
Great video, mahalo! Who needs to pay a mechanic $500 when you can DIY!
Hi
Iv got a Fiat 128 Rally 1974
My starter keep on cranking and not start at all, i had to pul battery wire to stop it.
After days of strangle i find that the points plastic on it melt little and touching the earth.
After fixed the points starter stop keep on cranking. And car starts 100%
Thing that confuse me totaly.
How can points that touch earth like my car did. Let the starter keep on cranking. How is that possible???
My coil got 3 wires on.
1. Ignition wire to +
2. Wire to points on -
3. Wire also on - (this wire i got no idee where it goes)
Realy realy hope you can give me the answer on this. 😁😁😁
Not sure this test diagnosis a stuck solenoid … the electrical continuity will still test good as you demonstrate but if the solenoid is stuck the armature will never get full juice from the battery.
Not only does it not do anything, but it blows my starter fuse. My homeboy in the hood was able to start my truck without the fuse. I need to know how he does it cause I'm currently stuck far from home and far from the auto parts store
What make and model is this vehicle? Have issues with 2003 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4.6L starter solenoid.. Please help
Very good explanation..thank you sir
What Is the third wire for?
The one u call "this guy".
Ground maybe?
Cool beans. Thanks 🙏
I have a 350z - I turn the key - it lights up but nothing. I checked the battery - good and it's new - I checked the fuses - looks good. I checked all the relays - good - I checked the clutch safety switch on the clutch - little button - good - I even put in a jumper - still nothing. The clutch safety switch did break and I put alligator clips to bypass the switch and the car started --- However, now with even alligator clips, it won't start. ---------------------------- I am thinking -- could the switch have been fine and it was just the starter all this time? My car is a 2005 but it only has about 33k on the engine/car. I will try this tester - could the starter cause the car to just turn the key and nothing but every electrical thing in the car works?
Great explanation 👍 It worked for me, THANKS 🙂
Great to hear!
@@CarsNToys where do I connect my voltmeter to do a voltage drop test to verify my starter motor is bad? I’ve been told it’s quite simple to do. Please explain
In my car electrician change solenoid and install relay for starter motor but still click sound coming and car is not starting, kindly explain what could be wrong and needs repair
Thank you for this :D
What about click noise from relay no noise from starter? All fuses are good on kia sorento
You only test the coil windings in the starter, if that is bad it won't even click, secondly you forgot to check the switch inside that closes when the plunger is engage, that sends the voltage from the battery terminal to the motor
The letter O makes an awwwww sound, Sawwwlenoid.
I have a z71 it ran got parked now the starter relay fuse makes clicking noise truck cranks but no spark and relay clicks till you turn the key off??
Did you get it figured out?
my 2016 toyota yaris won't start or crank all I hear when I turn the key is a continuous winning noise like something is spinning
Nice video mate
Ok this needs to be better explained with the clicks. It's to different clicks. When you hear just in the on position indicate the cylinder is good the other as you turn the key than hearing clicks means it's bad.
GOOD VIDEO FOR ME. THANK YOU MAN
Big facts
I replaced the starter on my Camry last year. I didn't keep the receipt though. Starters should last more than a year.
my 05 escape sometimes it will turn on with one key turn but sometimes it will need like 3 or 4 key turns to start also i dont hear a clicking when it wont start but more of a clacking type noise again it doesnt do this all the time but it seems it might be getting worse any help would be appreciated thank you
it sounds like ignition lock cylinder issue which escapes are known for. I've dealt with the same thing.
I got a really fast clock that repeats multiple times after car gets warm. What could that be?
Do you need to disconnect battery for this test?
Lol
I have a similar problem on my car. Yesterday I tried to turn it on and when I turn the key, only one click is heard and the engine does not turn, I tried many times and every time only that one click is heard and the car will not turn to try to start. the battery is new and excellent and that is not the reason. after that I tried to push the car only half a meter forward and sat in it and turned the key and the car immediately started normally, I turned it on and off without any problem 20 times in a row, the whole day wherever I went the car started normally, The next day I sat in the car to go to work and suddenly I turned the key and again the click sound, the car does not start. I push the car 1 m forward, sit in it, close the door, turn the key and start it without any problems.. I don't know why it happens, do you maybe know or suspect something? will I constantly have to manually push the car forward a few centimeters for it to start after that? thank you in advance for your help!!
I Love your video
In my case, it turns out nothing was faulty: i followed the wire from the battery to the solenoid, and.... it was loose! Not loose enough to fall off, but loose enough for intermittant starts. So yeah, check your wires!
Awesome vid
Thanks man
Nice video, good points and well-shot. Thx to the commenters for their points about continuity and your link to the other video.
Sillinoid???? What’s that? Is it like a solenoid?
My tractor didnt start after i came back from the store and it said ratatatt for a while but after a while only clicked once we jump started it and i got home and tested batterys and theyre full so is it the solenoid
What is the solenoid cable connected too? Not the STARTER, but what part of the engine
The battery I believe is what he said
Is it a solenoid if I hear only one 'click'?
Great video. When I drive my 1965 c10 for over an hour and I turn the truck off it usually takes 10 minutes to restart. Engine won't crank not even the engine fan turn on. It sounds like no power at all. Any suggestions?
Don’t know if you still have your problem but you may want to look at came chaft position sensor throttle position sensors or crank shaft position sensor. Hope this helps!
Good explainations ! Thanks guys
Sir I just install a new starter motor but no sign of start.only one click sound only...vehicle model mitsubisi rosa bus diesel engine
Thanks. Well done.✌🏽👍🏽
What is wrong when my car only start when using jumper cable, battery is new @ 12v, when it runs idle at 14v. Any help would be appreciated, thanks
I don’t know much about cars but it sounds like you have a defected battery you can take it to have them check it at auto zone
Or you have a lower ranked battery. The battery isn't powerful enough to get it to turn over.
I have the same issue and I have a new high cranking battery I’m starting to think it’s the started or a relay but the car often starts after a jump any updates?
HA ! ..... before you go and take the starter/solenoid assembly out of the car, remove the battery and have it LOAD tested.
Do the easy things first and save yourself some headaches !
A battery that is on its "last leg" will make your solenoid "click" (and do nothing else) every time you try to start the car!
What if I hear only 1 click ? I have a c200k 2001
Try cranking the car so we can hear what it sound like before you tear everything apart
…Good point
0:58 voltage stays the same 12v, you meant large current.
What if it's intermittent? Sometimes you have tone, sometimes you don't? A ghost? It's not always that simple
Good question. I also wondered, as my starter occationally works, occationally don't.
Means theres a bad electrical contact somewhere. Either inside the solenoid, relay, ground, or wiring itself.
Or at least, thats the most likely.
Click click click. Could be any type of click click. Click
Sounds from the relay
Why does it keep clicking instead of just only once?
cuz ur battery is dead
But does it solve?
so if there is continuity THEN solenoid is not bad BUT starter is??
Do starter solenoids suddenly go out, or will it intermittently not start before not starting at all? My car suddenly won't start at all. The battery is good, just replaced it and all lights work in the "on" position. When you turn the key to the "start" position the radio functions go out but nothing else. I should also mention there is a constant electronic whine coming from the engine compartment when the key is in the "on" position. That whine usually only stays on for a few seconds but now it DOESN'T SHUT UP.
Did you find the problem I have the same thing happening to my Audi
@@anthonymarin584 It ended up being the starter solenoid. Not sure if it caused the whine but, I had the starter-solenoid assembly replaced and haven't had any issues since.
@@waltofalltrades6817 thanks , On my starter it looks like there’s some melted and burnt wire coming off the solenoid
@@anthonymarin584 Might be as simple as having a professional replace that section of wire. A bad solenoid might be causing it to melt/burn though. You can test the solenoid by giving it a few good whacks with a hammer and see if the car will start afterwards. Its not guaranteed to work though.
My F150 sounds like a machine gun, ba ba ba ba (battery is good).
Could a very bad storm and water cause a starter/solenoid problem?
In was fine, then we had a huge storm (S. Louisiana, so I mean a real storm) and she wouldn't crank back up.
1:01 ✅
well, what if i only hear a single click every time?
what was the cause?
dead battery, we tried a new one, but that one dint have enough amps, we charged this for 18 hours and it was enough. My alternator was faulty, turns out.@@empiresrikesfat
I replaced mine and it still does it
Yeah my 2001 v6 mustang does this sometimes it clicks one time but won’t crank but once it happens it won’t start there were two different sounds I was hearing though one from the starter clicking and one from something else after continuously trying to start it about 6 times right back to back it started but I don’t want to have to do that once I have it started and turn it off it starts right back up does this mean my starter could be bad if not what else could possibly be bad and how do I go about fixing it?
When it clicks is it draining the battery? I noticed that the newly charge battery had the dome light back on but as soon as I tried to turn the key the dome light went off. and clicking continued until I turned the key all the way to the right.
I'm having this same issue. Were you able to figure out what it was?
@@sibp901 I had bought a battery from a salvage yard They said that the battery had a good charge I put our home charger on twice and thought the battery was not the problem I ended up taking it to an alternator guy He charged the battery on his charger and IT STARTED. So it was the battery. Cost was 4 dollars for his charge.
My neighbour has to hit the starter motor with a hammer to get it free it'self when starting from cold.
So u don’t have to have battery connected
Love how he uses p.b. blast when the bolts look brand new just trying to get a sponsor
Just curious, why do you always say "we made a video"? Are you not the only one who makes and edits these videos?
I have a 1995 f 350 7.3 L diesel. It suddenly would not crank. All I heard was a single click. After trying few things with no luck, I then hot wired a piece of wire to the + post on the battery and then I touched the other end to the S terminal (that has thin red wire , the trigger wire connected ) on the starter solenoid, The starter cranked and ,the engine started. I Single click didn't mean the solenoid was bad. ... Still trying to figure out why the trigger wire is not getting power.
thank you i tried to ram the armature with a hammer and now works perfectly
I'm about to replace my starter, it seems like when this crap starts happening sometime you have to keep going and before long you have spent hundreds on a problem that is overlooked by you and the other mechanics. The new set of eyes will fix your car, its happened several times to me and it will cause some people to get rid of their car because of a CHEAP fix that no one can find.