Im 6 years owner of my Q60 RS. Bad boy is at 60k miles now. Stance out. Bad boy runs superb and full of statistics. I love this bad boy. You love it right and it will love you more than expected. In 6 years, only 1 downfall,that is the serpentine belt at 30k. Bottom line, NO REGRETS.
Best car Ive owned and the longest Ive ever held on to a car. Ive owned now 4 years and a couple of months. With interest rate, still new car prices, new car inventory, used car prices I can't/won't find anything better or as fast and relaible unless it costs 50,000 plus and 800.00 a month. My remaining mo payments are $422.00. My car has a few small rock chips or else it looks as new. Better than new because Racebox tune, Magna Flow CBE, AMS airbox kit, Mishimoto OCC, PLM heat exchanger, AMS LPFP, Subframe bushing collars, and diff brace. Buying a 2024 Q50 would be a disappointment.
I goy my 22 Q50 Red Sport 400 AWD in April of this year, everyone flamed me for it. I could care less; it's exactly what I wanted and is an amazing car. I wanted a V-6 sedan with All Wheel Drive but didn't want American or a Merc, Jag, BMW, or Audi... Lexus and Acura have nothing that compares to my Q in either performance or drivability and my car is just as reliable. So I made the best decision for me and I have not looked back. The funny thing is that now that I have it; I get all the compliments I can stand...
I have no idea to be honest, I’ve done the regular FBO stuff with a JB4 running 93 Octane, coilovers, sways, and new tires. Pretty quick now, still deciding to tune or not, but it’s pretty fun to drive.
The car community has a bunch of childish people. I've had plenty of rude, childish and trolls comment. A few of BMW trolls that get their kicks comparing their cars to others and bad mouthing others choices because it usually makes them feel better about themselves.
Thank you for your honesty. Great video and good information. I'm a 3.7 owner but I feel the same way about getting a truck. For now, the Q50 will have to do.
I just need a truck for different needs but my 2019 3.0T Q50 is still king with me. No way I'm buying a truck/another vehicle that gets worse mileage than my Q and even anything else that get below 30 mpg. The Ford Maverick hybrid which drives car like, with four doors and has the truck bed and tow hitch capacity plus 35-40 mpg city is what makes me even consider it. There are some crazy, badass performing/looking trucks now but all those are 55-75K and get 15-21mpg.
is it true that the 2018+ models have better turbos and are more reliable? Im on the FB forums and everyday it seems that someone has a turbo failure or AWD issues etc. But more common then ever it the turbos.
I'm somewhat informed that the 2019s where the year with the difference in the update to the manufacture switch on the turbos. I am not Mr Infiniti I know everything but this is what I've read and seem from credible 1-2 resources. A part of me thinks this about these turbos. They are not the high grade turbos that can be sourced or bought, but they in general they are good enough. When you give say 100 people the same item to go home with and do whatever they do with it, your likely going to see 10-15 people ruin or break whatever it is.then you will have another 20 people that generally like it but have a few gripes. The rest are fine and never heard from. If an owner buys a new 3.0t and normally drives like an adult but has some fun times with the car, I think this is the point of this model car. If someone buys and drives it roughly most of the tine they have it, then I thin/feel there is the accelerated wear that may not be seen in some other brands or say a good one naturally aspirated V8 350-400hp. Why I state, often my opinion, likely a good car to buy new. Not saying every Q59-60 pre-owned is a bad investment or ticking time bomb but just the combination of many things. With all this stated, I am blown away how many old infinitis vehicles I see driving around in what seem like near new condition. I see about 5 a week from about the 2007-2010 era that really make me smile and want to snap a photo. I really liked the FX35. Also in about 2014-15 my neighbor had an black infiniti 2 door car that he kept in his garage. A okder model but just mint condition. It was his baby, a Sunday only, special day car type of driver. Maybe it was a G37. He died years ago, he was older and in poor health. This was before I new nothing about Infiniti but when he pulled that car out, it was something special. I get that similar vibe with mine. They are unique. The Japanese styling that doesn't seem to age poorly.
@@GettingthruLife yeah definitely. I’m trying to find a low mileage one since I car afford a new one off the lot. I’ve seen some 2019, 2020 models for a good price and low miles. I like to do simple mods to the car. It will be my daily. I will probably run a subwoofer since I heard the bass is kinda a lack luster. Other then that probably some nice wheels, exhaust and a simple tune to wake it up some. I’ll probably throw some quality coil overs on it down the road depending on the driving conditions. I baby my cars for the most part 😁
@josiahr4650 I would tend to say less reliable with higher miles. Really just depends on the car and the owners. (These cars seem to have 2-3 owners which can be a negative). If you can find a 2016-2018 that's been cared for then that's the only way I'd buy a V6 turbo car or unless very cheap to buy and you have time and money to put back into it. 70,000 mile car likely needs a lot of work that was never done. I wouldn't expect to just buy and drive for 3 more years and not encounter some failure that needs attention. Now a cared for 3.0t that's been properly serviced can see 70-90k miles and be more reliable. Though to know the history of vehicles.
I have a 2021 Infiniti Q50s AWD Redsport and I love my car. It is very fast and I haven't even put the first mod on it yet. But I do have clear bra on the front all the way to the windshield.
I got a 2017 q50 premium 2 owner with 48k miles for sub 20k that's been only dealer serviced. I've driven it for 6k miles with no issues, but I was wondering how to squeeze around 400hp without ruining the reliability of the car. I was thinking about getting it tuned with intakes, but I was wondering what is the most reliable tuner for the car
You can easily get 400whp and not tax the car's engine, trans, and axles. Tuning is the best and most reliable way to add hp and Tq while making sure the motor stays healthy. All depends to on how healthy the cars is when getting tuned. Sonic Tuned and Race Box are premium tuners and they are cutting down their prices since the VR30 tuning craze is settling down. Also, Z1 Motorsprots offers good tuning. AMS is very good but their tuning is the highest priced. You just tell them what you want, how far you want to go and they will customize your tune. Best to do the tuning once you settle on everything you want to add. (blowoff valves(no performance gain), lower downpipe, full downpipe, airboxes, heat exchanger, upgraded intercoolers and or catback exhaust.
I'd buy from a reputable Infiniti dealer that has some history with the car. Get a warranty where they will stand behind what they sell. Of you buy from other sources you take a gamble on what was done to it, how it was treated and 40k little to no maintance. I would not buy a vr30 car that had downpipes with out the tuning, these cars with blowoff valves without tuning and then Id stay away from these cars who ran JB4 because everyone goes to the max setting. Big difference between jb4 and professional ecu tuning per dataloging.
I spent 50k on my q50 sport awd 2019. it’s Infiniti certified and I got the 100k warranty. Your right paying extra is well worth it and gives me a peace of mind. Car had 32k on it and so far Ive drove 22k miles haven’t had 1 problem. My question is what are some aftermarket tunes I can do without voiding my warranty that will make my car faster?
I would in my opinion avoid a JB4 because the urge to go overboard is to tempting. All ecu tuning has some level of risk but if you used a respected ecutek Infiniti tuner the risk is minimum. I have a friend I met through youtube that in my area and he has a 2018 Redsport. He bought it a a Infiniti c.p.o. He put downpipes on it, blowoff valves, low pressure fuel pump, intake, catback exhaust and ecutek tuned Z1 motorsports and now a e-30 ethanol tune. He had turbo problems at some point 2021 and had those replaced under infiniti warranty. Then not long after that his radiator overflow tank started dropping and it turned out he had a porous block and had the turbos replaced again and a new block all under warranty. He didn't remove any performance part from his Q50RS to have his warranty fix everything. I'd reach out to your Infiniti service manager where you bought your car and see what he says about having a tune installed by a master ecutek tuner. If you did go a JB4 route, I stay below or at 16.5 psi. A redsport has ecu capacity to about 14-14.5 psi. Lower hp Q50-60 I think recall max turbo psi 8.5 or 9 psi max.
Depends on variables not shared here though 50 is a lot of money. Depends on the car/model and options. Also depends on the region lived as other places even inside the US. It's just more expensive to buy vehicles.
You make a lot of sense and it is very logical from an objective viewpoint. People tune these cars incorrectly especially since these cars are not race cars they need a bit more care when it comes to pushing it. So much more regular maintenance, have it tuned by a reputable tuner and stop messing around the engine without tuning it got it! Thanks bro much appreciated!
I went with a local company Jotech, fantasic tuners -pro racers Lambo, Porsche, McClaren, Nissan GTR god's, and cars few can afford but they didn't know the ends and out of the Infiniti VR30 tuning in relation to all the ecutek available paramters at the time 2019-2020. I then hit up Hussain at Race Box and remote tuned with him. He had his own Infiniti VR30 where he made it his business to understand its full tuning possibilities and knew the software in relation to the car. He had more esperience so he did a better job tuning where I felt better running his tuning for health of the car. Car did run more predictably and still kept it's refined drivability and my mpg is very good in the city and hwy 26/34. I just kept thing simple enough too, 93 only tune, HX upgrade factory location, AMS intakes which when tuned add 11-13 hp up passed 5.5k rpm, and 2.5" dual with x-pipe CBE. Taking off any catalytic converters and messing with emissions is one of the ways to run into motor warranty issues with infiniti. I elected to keep my upper and lower cats. 440-450rwhp is plenty for the street for a car that's not built around a sport chassis and suspension.
@@GettingthruLife Thanks for more details! I'll definitely go to Racebox for a tune it seems that they know what they're doing. Yeah 440+whp on a street car is already amazing and pretty crazy with just a couple bolt ons!
Yeah pretty much 90% in the ecu tune. 10% exhaust and AMS air filter kit. 75-120 more hp from fueling mods but can get expensive and likely to eat into powertrain 6 yr warranty.
Nice, my car still brings a big smile to my face 3 years later. I always take great pride in taking car of my cars and that builds the future auto/human relationship. Take care of your car/vehicle and most the time it will take care of you.
I just bought a 2020 q50 from the dealer because I work in the same building as Infiniti. It was a one owner and seemed to be well taken care of but everybody gave me shit for buying it because the turbos. The turbos did scare me but I take good care of it and I never go 10k miles on an oil change
If it was properly taken care of which still Infiniti's oil change schedule is long and the auto transmission oil service, but if the oil was changed and the previous owner didn't put on a JB4, cattless downpipes and blowoff valves on it, you should be good. The reason why the Infiniti v6 turbos have a bad rap is because improperly informed owners caused the problems with those parts/turbos. Modifying the motor/turbos behavior requires ecu tuning so all the part mesh together properly. I'll assume you purchased possibly a lease turn in or they upsold him/her to another Infiniti vehicle. Anyways, a good idea to buy from an Infiniti dealership because when you buy from a random roadside car lot, you have no idea what the car has been through. Also too, now a days and it's been this way for years, most non-Infiniti dealers and maybe some infiniti dealers buy from vehicle auctions. Auction cars sometimes can be a good value but a lot of times nightmares down the road. Just watch the car fixer-up TV shows that buy and resale vehicles. I still have mine 3 years plus later and because I bought it new and treat it like an investment, it should be fine for many more years. You treat it like shit then it will become shit.
@@GettingthruLife yeah that’s for sure. The car fax showed it had been serviced at Infiniti it’s whole life and they never went 10k miles on an oil change I believe the most I seen was 5k
@@GettingthruLife wait so I just recently installed new Inlets for the bms silicon ones and just ordered the bms heat exchanger with stillen catback exhaust is this a safe mod set up or you recommend a tune to prolong the life and turbo efficiently in my q50 (vr30)
@Mr.Benjamin counta you could do these things without tuning and stay within engine ecu parameters. Tunimg the ecu for these mods would allow for more power gain but at a greater cost because tuning has become big $$$. Removing the catalytic converters, adding blow off valves and running higher amounts of ethanol is not recommended without tuning. The JB4 product is what I'd stay away from in general as that for extended use can lead to excessive turbo wear no matter what some 17-20 year old "Infiniti expert" tells you.
I've got 2 sets. Chrome looking 19's x8.5 came on the car and are stamped Enke brandi on the inside. The grey/steel color other set I have are 19" and 10" wide rear an 8.5 front and VFF01 Verde brand.
Likely not a great investment. 2016-2017 likely but not always have potential more problems. If you like the car, it checks out mechanically, runs well, and you can afford because reasonably priced then consider only.
2019 has the revised turbos and updated ecm tuning software. Much less likelihood of the dreaded porous block. If you use the 2016-17 budget in the cost on maintance that wasn't done and damage caused by previous owners. One way to save money on an otherwisw expensive build would be to buy cheap 2016-2017 and soon send/drive to Hussain-Racebox/AMS and pay for example RA600 complete build package push figure brand new better/bigger turbos replacements. 22k for the car before pandemic prices and 15 - 20 to 22k to Hussain or AMS for motor/turbo update. 600-650 whp for 42k investment. Refresh trans, differential, all fliuds, and new, extra sturdy fresh turbos. Then take care of that car, proper tuning and frequent oil changes and last long time.
@@GettingthruLife really appreciate it! And especially gettijg back so fast! I’ve always loved Infiniti and look forward to getting the car I’ve always wanted
@@Jakovasaur26 ask a lot of questions, take the time to check the air filters, check the trans oil color and consistency. Look closely at the heat exchanger over flow/fill level, also the radiator fill container, look for tale-tail signs of accident damage, weird tire wear, shotty work done-removing parts, ask if the serpentine belt has been serviced/inspect/listen hood up, take it for an hour drive before buy and test everything and vibe with the car. If available, I highly recommend buying a certified pre-owned Infiniti with piece of mind 100k mile warranty. Pay more but get a stood behind car and likely checked over nicely and real service done.
Do you think a full catted exhaust with a ecutek tune is bad for the engine and turbos? I have. 2021 q50 3.0 silver sport. Planning to just get a CBE, heat exchanger, and AMS 400 hp tune. Wondering id I should get a full catted downpipe
The car is designed to run with all four catalytic converters, period. Unless tuned for the absence of catalytic you would be causing problems for your turbos to over spool. Tuning and dataloging allows the tuner to set the electronically controlled waste gates to keep turbo boost within parameter and the speed at which the turbos spin. Anyone tells you any differently is ignorant. If you are going to get tuned by one of the top four Infiniti Ecutek tuners and you want to be at only 400 whp then you don't need to spend $900-1200 for catted full down pipes plus $500-800 install. Lower catted 2.5-3.0 downpipes are good for approx just 7-9whp over a fully catted VR30 with a 2.5" CBE two-pipe/x-pipe. I went Magnaflow 15310 CBE with all my catalytic converters, HX, AMS airbox/filters, and Racebox 93 octane remote tune. My car, rwd, is so fast there's not a street tire available that I wont shred first gear with launch control. 285 width to 305 width. it does not matter. Need a pure drag radial-drag strip tire to launch 0-60mph/60 foot time.
It is their version of the factory fresh air intake. Whether it's cold/cooler depends on outside air temp. Z1 makes their version as well that would improve intake airflow mostly while tuned. I put mine on my car for 1st baseline dyno run and recorded 315whp dynojet.. 12-15whp at the upper rpm range.
Can't easily or reasonable convert to AWD. Pretty much need to make the choice when buying new or preowned. Not as many AWD cars available for the Q50 as I live in warmer climate with minimal snow and ice. If I did again, maybe get the a AWD but definitely like $2,500 - 3000 more.
@@SmokyOkilla There is an electronic add-on controler by www.syvecs.com/product-category/awd-4wd-controllers/ Can do some cool things for AWD cars but I'm sure not inexpensive. This part can allow tune-ability of where power is sent front/rear for awd .
What is your opinion on the jb4? I just bought my q50 and it’s certified pre owned but I don’t really want the dealership to be able to know I ever tuned the car. May just wait till after warranty is over to ecu tek tune and get after market heat exchanger.
Here's my opinion on the JB4 and it makes total sense if somewhere just to think out it. A JB4 is a boost controller that in realistic terms fools the car's computer by adding boost to what the car thinks its supplying. The cars ecu/ecm reads all the data to keep the car's motor in check which include all the data from the elevate boost levels but the ecu as wiggle room to compensate some. A person goes in and peaks out the JB4 on 6 or 7 then they are could be running the car lean, over boost, timing off, knock or whatever the case. Plus JB4 doest see and adjust parameters for blowoff valves and downpipes lower and upper. Blowoff valves change the intake charge and unless calibrated through a tune then the blowoff valves are fighting the car's ecu because ecu and blowoff valves are not communicated together. That's why this car has electronic wastegates that control boost buildup. Blow off valves override what the ecu thinks it's controlling. Over time many thousands of miles JB4, blowoff valves, and cattless downpipes wear out the motor/turbos. That's why it seems like a lot of cars get damaged with 40K miles because so many people run JB4's or take off cats, and run blowoff valves without proper tuning. That's my educated opinion. If you want blowoff valves for just sound and you want to run just lower downpipes or full catless downpipes then you need a ecutek tune that incorporate those modifications per a good tuner.
@@GettingthruLife absolutely awesome! Thank you for taking time out to give me such an in detail response. With all that said the ecu tek just makes sense. Will buy a heat exchanger and a tune soon. Then hopefully get some wheels and tires, I bought a grey one so I am thinking about running the Nissan Z tire set up. Was watching a video and the guy had Z wheels and tires with perfect fitment and 1 inch springs. I do not intend on getting springs though.
also, a heat exchanger upgrade won't typically void warranty unless you break something directed related to the heat exchanger. Low low chance that a nice heat exchanger upgrade would change warranty. Also, I know people who have taken their car into the dealerships with ecutek tuning and gotten full motor and turbos replaced no hasssle. Just get a good tuner to tune your car where they will look at specific car data which will tell them in a way how healthy your car is. They will be tuning off like 30 parameters. You have crappy turbos that are about to go out they can see signs that they car needs to be turned down. Engine knock will determine how much you can turn your car up. Anyways, nothing is 100% so the absolute safest way and to have zero doubts/worries then best to keep the car factory spec. Hope that helps. These cars are pretty fast anyways so you shouldn't be disappointed whatever you decide.
Thise nizmo wheels look sick. Also if you can get the set of 2023 Z wheels those would be killer too. They are forged and machinedi think. Lighter weight.
@@GettingthruLife I have the awd version what square tire set up do you think would work best? I saw your vid on your tire set up but to my knowledge you are rwd correct? Been looking at getting 285s all around to fit a 19 by 10 inch wheel with +40 offset
I want to get a used q50 in a couple of years. They're depreciating so fast and I might be able to get one for 20k in a couple of years. I do wish it came with android auto stock
The 2021 and 2022 do come with Android auto and iapple connect. All cars have gained in value since 2020. My car is worth around 5,000 more in value now so it appreciated in value over three years. I would not recommend the lower priced used Q50-60's because youre almost always get what you pay for. Low price more headaches and undisclosed information leading to more expenses and lost time. These cars tend to get used and abused and sold/traded at auction where pretty much all dealerships are hooked into the auction network. Watch on a computer at the sales managers desk, push the buy button and the vehicle from anywhere in the US shows up at the dealer on a flatbed. Auction cars are an inherent gamble but are appealing because can be bought cheap and resold making nice profits at the expense of history and proper maintenance. Buying a one-owner car with whom the dealership originnally sold the car, plus the interaction they've had with the car means added value and history. I be one of the first to report I see a lot of used Q50 VR30 problems because of unknown/unconfirmed ownership. People who buy their cars new and own them 3 to 5 years tend to report positive ownership feedback and little to no turbo damage or valvetrain failures. Belt issues are also less known and or usually dealt with before they cause damage and need repair that many times is not performed correctly.
Forsure...if it makes you happy. Certified pre-owned piece of mind. Infiniti dealerships from what Ive seen, stand behind their cars 110%. I've seen and heard things that I thought no way this will be covered and I was blown away. Even with downpipes, blowoff valves, tuning and more.
I bought a CPO 18 model and so far it's been great. The dealer changed the coolant and didn't fill it right. I fixed it per procedure and all good but only because the dealer is an hour away and 2 week lead time.
CPO is the way to buy. They stand behind their cars. Lot of piece of mind. Pay more but get a much better car almost always. That or buy a unknown q50-q60 for cheap but be ready to make do a fair amount to bring it back to reliable and not worn out.
I don't have a clue what the part number is. I'd recommend call your local Infiniti dealer. Or call one of the online companies selling these specific chrome wheels: www.originalwheels.com/infiniti-wheels/q502019rims.php
Oil changes are key for motor and turbo live for sure. Depends on mileage as that varies from car to car. 5 to 6K intervals should be adequate but if driving more aggressive on a regular basis closer to 4-5K just my opinion. At 35-40K transmission fluid flush and a rear diff fluid change. Just keep an eye on your serpentine under the hood belt. That varies on climate and other factors too. Do not run these car for thousands of miles with lower downpipes, full downpipes, and or blow off valves without proper tuning from one of the guru tuners for those parts. Don't run one E-10 or E15 fuel often unless you have a specific tune. and upgrades. I'd recommend new brake pads for at least the front brakes over the Infiniti to get better braking performance sport or non sport brakes. I have had the R1 Geomet grade slotted and drilled rotors and R1 ceramic performance pads for year and a half now and they added to the car's over OEM brake performance. Keep an eye on radiator fluid level and heat exchanger fluid in the reservoir tanks as some cars can develop porous blocks and not cool properly or bad head gaskets. New tires over the runflats any and all day long. UHP summer or HP all-weather depending on where you live. That's all that come to my mind. Wash you rcar often and use some long-lasting, coating exterior protectant products to protect your clearcoat/paint. I use Topcoat but their are others that are similar. Ceramic coating the best but $$$.
I actually have in the ball park of 499-500 hp flywheel/ 445-450 rwhp. Torque was registered to be 510+. First off to get strong hp numbers you need a healthy car. Next need the basic goodies such as Ecutek 93 octane tune from a popular Infiniti tuner, upgrade heat exchanger, airbox/filter/coupler upgrade, improved/larger flowing catback exhaust system. Some like to add lower cat-free downpipes too. Result when you bump up the whp/hp, you then need 285-305 width, soft tread compound rear tires for rwd. The UHP tires in 285 and wider are now astronomical in price. AWD cars don't suffer as much from 0-60mph wheel spin but benefit from 275 sticky rear tires and 255 fronts.
If you want to run the best rear tires for traction then get 17" rears for Mickey Thompson ET Street R's. They are not really for daily driving and don't do water but just about the only tires after warm that will grip. Width no less wide than 275 but I'd look at 285/295. Must have a 10 - 10.5 wide wheel. Offset +43 - +45. Lowered suspension could cause problems. Sport brakes should still fit but not 100% sure.
To run e30 fuel mix consisantly and safely I would need to retune with Hussain at Racebox. The cost of the retuning is/was an additional $800-900 dollars on top of the original 93 tuning. Hussain recommends doing this process right so the AMS or equivalent brand of e-sensor flex fuel kit should be put on the car's fuel system adding to the already high price and reliability. Then adding one of the ethanol fuel filters kits would be smart to protect the no injector clogging. One last thing to run safely e20-e30 need to upgrade the LPFP. So for everything looking about $2 grand estimate not including install. If you did all this than better to go up to full e85 but then will need HPFP upgrade and some suggest upgrading the injectors too. Mow about $4,000 out of pocket. Car is fast now...way faster the I can put the power down 0-60mph/60ft. Would need to by new 17" rear wheels to hold the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R tires at about $1,900 more.
@@GettingthruLife you can run e30 on stock fuel system and that’s coming from Alex. I have e30 on stock system I run it Mybe once a month . Car feels great
Unless running a specific tune for e30 there's no gain to be seen. I've run e20-e25 before and my dragy times did not improve, Maybe a decline depending on weather and conditions.
I wouldn't say a lower downpipe upgrade's 12whp would be a felt change. Full catless downpipes can with a proper tune can give around 20hp gain. Both options need a proper ecu adjust/tune so the 3.0t motor runs healthy. Evidence, ask a valid Infiniti qualified master tuner. 2nd, installed downpipes without a proper tune are one of the biggest reasons why 3.0t Q50-60's have turbo issues and is compounded with JB4 use.
@@GettingthruLife yeah I know but usually people get downpipes before an exhaust cause exhaust with stock cats is pretty useless. lowers or full downpipes the turbos would spool up a lot faster 12whp or 20 more would still notice a difference and I know you had hooking problems before but definitely would now but dealing with the emission test and stuff must be a headache and is definitely play a factor on keeping the cats on
Yes spooling faster would be a neagtive. Faster spooling would be helpful/more beneficial if this car had bigger turbos. Adding downpipes in my opinion would be about like adding AMS air boxes/Z1 new airboxes after proper tuning adjustments. For me, per my master tuner Hussain at racebox adding lower dps would not be worth the associated cost. Full downpipes catless with his retune would add some gain but would cost upwards of an additional $2000. (Retune, install, and full dp cost).
@@GettingthruLife new to the vr30 platform, dont want to go crazy on this build honestly im more of a "throw some wheels and lower it a little bit "typa guy but, would you say the jb4 is safe with say, only intakes and a heat exchanger?
I wouldn't go crazy with the JB4 and max it out. I'd keep the boost mild but that's hard to fight the urge to not turn it up. Higher boost levels should come down to physically tuning/adjusting the numerous ecu parameters. The jb4 is a blind device in the sense (the added so-called wires do add more data but the JB product relies on the car's brain to make the correct adjustments but the car's computer doesn't know it has a secondary device hooked up to it which is altering the perceived boost. The car's ecu/ecm can only correct essential engine parameters so much. Paying a tuner to make precise calibration adjustments based on datalogs/actual dyno results is the best way to turn up boost to and past 17 psi in my opinion. Redsport boost is something like 14.5 psi so all the car's equipment and programming can handle that plus some added headroom. In my opinion, 16 psi max including the JB4's added boost is as high as I would go. If you want to see 17-19 psi boost then consider a master Ecutek, trusted vr30 platform tuner. Stay away from blowoff valves in general, not needed and lower downpipes without cbe is pointless but lower catless downpipes and cbe together, 13 feet back of larger tubing will change things enough that the engine management will have to make adjustments. Engine management was set up to run the factory 4 cats and small diameter exhaust per turbo setting wastegate control. My tuner at Racebox states catless downpipes need tuning changes for long term engine health. A cbe exhaust alone won't add much and doesn't require tuning but dp's, ldp's and cbe need ecu calibration for engine/turbo longevity and over all health. More performance gain and better integration of AMS/Z1 airboxes too with tuning for those mods. Any questions or debates...reach out to any top infiniti V6 tuner and see what they recommend instead of internet Joe-blow's I heard from a friend this works. Hussain at Racebox Houston Texas tuned my car and there are other respected tuners as well like AMS and I'll throw out Sonic tuned and Brandon Btuned which I've seen mentioned.
Im 6 years owner of my Q60 RS. Bad boy is at 60k miles now. Stance out. Bad boy runs superb and full of statistics.
I love this bad boy. You love it right and it will love you more than expected. In 6 years, only 1 downfall,that is the serpentine belt at 30k. Bottom line,
NO REGRETS.
Best car Ive owned and the longest Ive ever held on to a car. Ive owned now 4 years and a couple of months. With interest rate, still new car prices, new car inventory, used car prices I can't/won't find anything better or as fast and relaible unless it costs 50,000 plus and 800.00 a month. My remaining mo payments are $422.00. My car has a few small rock chips or else it looks as new. Better than new because Racebox tune, Magna Flow CBE, AMS airbox kit, Mishimoto OCC, PLM heat exchanger, AMS LPFP, Subframe bushing collars, and diff brace. Buying a 2024 Q50 would be a disappointment.
that bad boy will last for ever
@@MurdaQ50that bad boy gon last for sure
I goy my 22 Q50 Red Sport 400 AWD in April of this year, everyone flamed me for it. I could care less; it's exactly what I wanted and is an amazing car. I wanted a V-6 sedan with All Wheel Drive but didn't want American or a Merc, Jag, BMW, or Audi... Lexus and Acura have nothing that compares to my Q in either performance or drivability and my car is just as reliable. So I made the best decision for me and I have not looked back. The funny thing is that now that I have it; I get all the compliments I can stand...
People talk shit because its easy
Why would anyone flame you for buying a Q50RS? I dont really know anyone who has anything bad to say about these cars..
Why would they talk shit? Lol pretty popular car in the car community
I have no idea to be honest, I’ve done the regular FBO stuff with a JB4 running 93 Octane, coilovers, sways, and new tires. Pretty quick now, still deciding to tune or not, but it’s pretty fun to drive.
The car community has a bunch of childish people. I've had plenty of rude, childish and trolls comment. A few of BMW trolls that get their kicks comparing their cars to others and bad mouthing others choices because it usually makes them feel better about themselves.
I bought my 2017 Q60 3.0T used. I've owned it since December 2018. I still love this car.
Good to hear. If bought right and in good condition when sold, then these cars have very little needs besides oil and filter changes.
@@GettingthruLife I agree.
Thank you for your honesty. Great video and good information. I'm a 3.7 owner but I feel the same way about getting a truck. For now, the Q50 will have to do.
I just need a truck for different needs but my 2019 3.0T Q50 is still king with me. No way I'm buying a truck/another vehicle that gets worse mileage than my Q and even anything else that get below 30 mpg. The Ford Maverick hybrid which drives car like, with four doors and has the truck bed and tow hitch capacity plus 35-40 mpg city is what makes me even consider it. There are some crazy, badass performing/looking trucks now but all those are 55-75K and get 15-21mpg.
is it true that the 2018+ models have better turbos and are more reliable? Im on the FB forums and everyday it seems that someone has a turbo failure or AWD issues etc. But more common then ever it the turbos.
I'm somewhat informed that the 2019s where the year with the difference in the update to the manufacture switch on the turbos. I am not Mr Infiniti I know everything but this is what I've read and seem from credible 1-2 resources.
A part of me thinks this about these turbos. They are not the high grade turbos that can be sourced or bought, but they in general they are good enough. When you give say 100 people the same item to go home with and do whatever they do with it, your likely going to see 10-15 people ruin or break whatever it is.then you will have another 20 people that generally like it but have a few gripes. The rest are fine and never heard from.
If an owner buys a new 3.0t and normally drives like an adult but has some fun times with the car, I think this is the point of this model car. If someone buys and drives it roughly most of the tine they have it, then I thin/feel there is the accelerated wear that may not be seen in some other brands or say a good one naturally aspirated V8 350-400hp.
Why I state, often my opinion, likely a good car to buy new. Not saying every Q59-60 pre-owned is a bad investment or ticking time bomb but just the combination of many things.
With all this stated, I am blown away how many old infinitis vehicles I see driving around in what seem like near new condition. I see about 5 a week from about the 2007-2010 era that really make me smile and want to snap a photo. I really liked the FX35.
Also in about 2014-15 my neighbor had an black infiniti 2 door car that he kept in his garage. A okder model but just mint condition. It was his baby, a Sunday only, special day car type of driver. Maybe it was a G37. He died years ago, he was older and in poor health. This was before I new nothing about Infiniti but when he pulled that car out, it was something special. I get that similar vibe with mine. They are unique. The Japanese styling that doesn't seem to age poorly.
@@GettingthruLife yeah definitely. I’m trying to find a low mileage one since I car afford a new one off the lot. I’ve seen some 2019, 2020 models for a good price and low miles. I like to do simple mods to the car. It will be my daily. I will probably run a subwoofer since I heard the bass is kinda a lack luster. Other then that probably some nice wheels, exhaust and a simple tune to wake it up some. I’ll probably throw some quality coil overs on it down the road depending on the driving conditions. I baby my cars for the most part 😁
@@GettingthruLifei found a 2017 3.0t 71000 miles is that good?
@josiahr4650 I would tend to say less reliable with higher miles. Really just depends on the car and the owners. (These cars seem to have 2-3 owners which can be a negative). If you can find a 2016-2018 that's been cared for then that's the only way I'd buy a V6 turbo car or unless very cheap to buy and you have time and money to put back into it. 70,000 mile car likely needs a lot of work that was never done. I wouldn't expect to just buy and drive for 3 more years and not encounter some failure that needs attention.
Now a cared for 3.0t that's been properly serviced can see 70-90k miles and be more reliable. Though to know the history of vehicles.
I have a 2021 Infiniti Q50s AWD Redsport and I love my car. It is very fast and I haven't even put the first mod on it yet. But I do have clear bra on the front all the way to the windshield.
That's a cool car as you got the lower gearing and a little bit more sporty overall package. Redsports Q50-60 in 2021-2022 got a sticker 57-60k now.
I got a 2017 q50 premium 2 owner with 48k miles for sub 20k that's been only dealer serviced. I've driven it for 6k miles with no issues, but I was wondering how to squeeze around 400hp without ruining the reliability of the car. I was thinking about getting it tuned with intakes, but I was wondering what is the most reliable tuner for the car
You can easily get 400whp and not tax the car's engine, trans, and axles. Tuning is the best and most reliable way to add hp and Tq while making sure the motor stays healthy. All depends to on how healthy the cars is when getting tuned. Sonic Tuned and Race Box are premium tuners and they are cutting down their prices since the VR30 tuning craze is settling down. Also, Z1 Motorsprots offers good tuning. AMS is very good but their tuning is the highest priced. You just tell them what you want, how far you want to go and they will customize your tune. Best to do the tuning once you settle on everything you want to add. (blowoff valves(no performance gain), lower downpipe, full downpipe, airboxes, heat exchanger, upgraded intercoolers and or catback exhaust.
looking at a 2018+ Q50 and this video helped alot
I'd buy from a reputable Infiniti dealer that has some history with the car. Get a warranty where they will stand behind what they sell. Of you buy from other sources you take a gamble on what was done to it, how it was treated and 40k little to no maintance. I would not buy a vr30 car that had downpipes with out the tuning, these cars with blowoff valves without tuning and then Id stay away from these cars who ran JB4 because everyone goes to the max setting. Big difference between jb4 and professional ecu tuning per dataloging.
I spent 50k on my q50 sport awd 2019. it’s Infiniti certified and I got the 100k warranty. Your right paying extra is well worth it and gives me a peace of mind. Car had 32k on it and so far Ive drove 22k miles haven’t had 1 problem. My question is what are some aftermarket tunes I can do without voiding my warranty that will make my car faster?
I would in my opinion avoid a JB4 because the urge to go overboard is to tempting. All ecu tuning has some level of risk but if you used a respected ecutek Infiniti tuner the risk is minimum. I have a friend I met through youtube that in my area and he has a 2018 Redsport. He bought it a a Infiniti c.p.o. He put downpipes on it, blowoff valves, low pressure fuel pump, intake, catback exhaust and ecutek tuned Z1 motorsports and now a e-30 ethanol tune. He had turbo problems at some point 2021 and had those replaced under infiniti warranty. Then not long after that his radiator overflow tank started dropping and it turned out he had a porous block and had the turbos replaced again and a new block all under warranty. He didn't remove any performance part from his Q50RS to have his warranty fix everything.
I'd reach out to your Infiniti service manager where you bought your car and see what he says about having a tune installed by a master ecutek tuner.
If you did go a JB4 route, I stay below or at 16.5 psi. A redsport has ecu capacity to about 14-14.5 psi. Lower hp Q50-60 I think recall max turbo psi 8.5 or 9 psi max.
@@GettingthruLife thanks so much I’m going to talk with my service rep and see what he says.
You spent 50k!!! I bought a 2019 Infiniti pre owned certified for 34,000 out the door with a rap warranty
Depends on variables not shared here though 50 is a lot of money. Depends on the car/model and options. Also depends on the region lived as other places even inside the US. It's just more expensive to buy vehicles.
I’m looking at one for 21K. 33k miles. Special edition. AWD. Def not an Infiniti dealership tho
You make a lot of sense and it is very logical from an objective viewpoint. People tune these cars incorrectly especially since these cars are not race cars they need a bit more care when it comes to pushing it. So much more regular maintenance, have it tuned by a reputable tuner and stop messing around the engine without tuning it got it! Thanks bro much appreciated!
I went with a local company Jotech, fantasic tuners -pro racers Lambo, Porsche, McClaren, Nissan GTR god's, and cars few can afford but they didn't know the ends and out of the Infiniti VR30 tuning in relation to all the ecutek available paramters at the time 2019-2020. I then hit up Hussain at Race Box and remote tuned with him. He had his own Infiniti VR30 where he made it his business to understand its full tuning possibilities and knew the software in relation to the car. He had more esperience so he did a better job tuning where I felt better running his tuning for health of the car. Car did run more predictably and still kept it's refined drivability and my mpg is very good in the city and hwy 26/34. I just kept thing simple enough too, 93 only tune, HX upgrade factory location, AMS intakes which when tuned add 11-13 hp up passed 5.5k rpm, and 2.5" dual with x-pipe CBE. Taking off any catalytic converters and messing with emissions is one of the ways to run into motor warranty issues with infiniti. I elected to keep my upper and lower cats. 440-450rwhp is plenty for the street for a car that's not built around a sport chassis and suspension.
@@GettingthruLife Thanks for more details! I'll definitely go to Racebox for a tune it seems that they know what they're doing. Yeah 440+whp on a street car is already amazing and pretty crazy with just a couple bolt ons!
Yeah pretty much 90% in the ecu tune. 10% exhaust and AMS air filter kit. 75-120 more hp from fueling mods but can get expensive and likely to eat into powertrain 6 yr warranty.
I love my 2021 q50 3.0T
It only has 4,500 miles
Nice, my car still brings a big smile to my face 3 years later. I always take great pride in taking car of my cars and that builds the future auto/human relationship. Take care of your car/vehicle and most the time it will take care of you.
@@GettingthruLife Thank u brother!…
That's a gnarly vehicle ,
even the G35 still looks cool to me.
And it get 34-35 mpg hwy.
I just bought a 2020 q50 from the dealer because I work in the same building as Infiniti. It was a one owner and seemed to be well taken care of but everybody gave me shit for buying it because the turbos. The turbos did scare me but I take good care of it and I never go 10k miles on an oil change
If it was properly taken care of which still Infiniti's oil change schedule is long and the auto transmission oil service, but if the oil was changed and the previous owner didn't put on a JB4, cattless downpipes and blowoff valves on it, you should be good. The reason why the Infiniti v6 turbos have a bad rap is because improperly informed owners caused the problems with those parts/turbos. Modifying the motor/turbos behavior requires ecu tuning so all the part mesh together properly. I'll assume you purchased possibly a lease turn in or they upsold him/her to another Infiniti vehicle. Anyways, a good idea to buy from an Infiniti dealership because when you buy from a random roadside car lot, you have no idea what the car has been through. Also too, now a days and it's been this way for years, most non-Infiniti dealers and maybe some infiniti dealers buy from vehicle auctions. Auction cars sometimes can be a good value but a lot of times nightmares down the road. Just watch the car fixer-up TV shows that buy and resale vehicles. I still have mine 3 years plus later and because I bought it new and treat it like an investment, it should be fine for many more years. You treat it like shit then it will become shit.
@@GettingthruLife yeah that’s for sure. The car fax showed it had been serviced at Infiniti it’s whole life and they never went 10k miles on an oil change I believe the most I seen was 5k
@@GettingthruLife wait so I just recently installed new Inlets for the bms silicon ones and just ordered the bms heat exchanger with stillen catback exhaust is this a safe mod set up or you recommend a tune to prolong the life and turbo efficiently in my q50 (vr30)
@Mr.Benjamin counta you could do these things without tuning and stay within engine ecu parameters. Tunimg the ecu for these mods would allow for more power gain but at a greater cost because tuning has become big $$$.
Removing the catalytic converters, adding blow off valves and running higher amounts of ethanol is not recommended without tuning. The JB4 product is what I'd stay away from in general as that for extended use can lead to excessive turbo wear no matter what some 17-20 year old "Infiniti expert" tells you.
@@GettingthruLife wow great Info as always man I genuinely had no clue thank you !
Are those M37 wheels ? They look amazing on the Q50
I've got 2 sets. Chrome looking 19's x8.5 came on the car and are stamped Enke brandi on the inside. The grey/steel color other set I have are 19" and 10" wide rear an 8.5 front and VFF01 Verde brand.
2017 q50 3.0t 71k miles is it a good investment?
Likely not a great investment. 2016-2017 likely but not always have potential more problems. If you like the car, it checks out mechanically, runs well, and you can afford because reasonably priced then consider only.
Gonna be looking at a 2019 q50 with 57k miles this weekend. Is this a good year? Should I save money and try to get a 2016-17?
2019 has the revised turbos and updated ecm tuning software. Much less likelihood of the dreaded porous block. If you use the 2016-17 budget in the cost on maintance that wasn't done and damage caused by previous owners. One way to save money on an otherwisw expensive build would be to buy cheap 2016-2017 and soon send/drive to Hussain-Racebox/AMS and pay for example RA600 complete build package push figure brand new better/bigger turbos replacements. 22k for the car before pandemic prices and 15 - 20 to 22k to Hussain or AMS for motor/turbo update. 600-650 whp for 42k investment. Refresh trans, differential, all fliuds, and new, extra sturdy fresh turbos. Then take care of that car, proper tuning and frequent oil changes and last long time.
@@GettingthruLife really appreciate it! And especially gettijg back so fast! I’ve always loved Infiniti and look forward to getting the car I’ve always wanted
@@Jakovasaur26 ask a lot of questions, take the time to check the air filters, check the trans oil color and consistency. Look closely at the heat exchanger over flow/fill level, also the radiator fill container, look for tale-tail signs of accident damage, weird tire wear, shotty work done-removing parts, ask if the serpentine belt has been serviced/inspect/listen hood up, take it for an hour drive before buy and test everything and vibe with the car. If available, I highly recommend buying a certified pre-owned Infiniti with piece of mind 100k mile warranty. Pay more but get a stood behind car and likely checked over nicely and real service done.
Do you think a full catted exhaust with a ecutek tune is bad for the engine and turbos? I have. 2021 q50 3.0 silver sport. Planning to just get a CBE, heat exchanger, and AMS 400 hp tune. Wondering id I should get a full catted downpipe
The car is designed to run with all four catalytic converters, period. Unless tuned for the absence of catalytic you would be causing problems for your turbos to over spool. Tuning and dataloging allows the tuner to set the electronically controlled waste gates to keep turbo boost within parameter and the speed at which the turbos spin. Anyone tells you any differently is ignorant. If you are going to get tuned by one of the top four Infiniti Ecutek tuners and you want to be at only 400 whp then you don't need to spend $900-1200 for catted full down pipes plus $500-800 install. Lower catted 2.5-3.0 downpipes are good for approx just 7-9whp over a fully catted VR30 with a 2.5" CBE two-pipe/x-pipe. I went Magnaflow 15310 CBE with all my catalytic converters, HX, AMS airbox/filters, and Racebox 93 octane remote tune. My car, rwd, is so fast there's not a street tire available that I wont shred first gear with launch control. 285 width to 305 width. it does not matter. Need a pure drag radial-drag strip tire to launch 0-60mph/60 foot time.
@@GettingthruLife thanks for your input. Btw, AMS air box and filter you referenced is the AMS cold air intake right?
It is their version of the factory fresh air intake. Whether it's cold/cooler depends on outside air temp. Z1 makes their version as well that would improve intake airflow mostly while tuned. I put mine on my car for 1st baseline dyno run and recorded 315whp dynojet.. 12-15whp at the upper rpm range.
I thought you can change the rwd to awd? Or is that just the type you buy is either awd or rwd? Idk
Can't easily or reasonable convert to AWD. Pretty much need to make the choice when buying new or preowned. Not as many AWD cars available for the Q50 as I live in warmer climate with minimal snow and ice. If I did again, maybe get the a AWD but definitely like $2,500 - 3000 more.
@GettingthruLife oh okay, thanks man! I'm looking to buy one. I def wanna hit the turns good, but I don't wanna mess things up if I drift.
@@SmokyOkilla There is an electronic add-on controler by www.syvecs.com/product-category/awd-4wd-controllers/
Can do some cool things for AWD cars but I'm sure not inexpensive. This part can allow tune-ability of where power is sent front/rear for awd .
What is your opinion on the jb4? I just bought my q50 and it’s certified pre owned but I don’t really want the dealership to be able to know I ever tuned the car. May just wait till after warranty is over to ecu tek tune and get after market heat exchanger.
Here's my opinion on the JB4 and it makes total sense if somewhere just to think out it. A JB4 is a boost controller that in realistic terms fools the car's computer by adding boost to what the car thinks its supplying. The cars ecu/ecm reads all the data to keep the car's motor in check which include all the data from the elevate boost levels but the ecu as wiggle room to compensate some. A person goes in and peaks out the JB4 on 6 or 7 then they are could be running the car lean, over boost, timing off, knock or whatever the case. Plus JB4 doest see and adjust parameters for blowoff valves and downpipes lower and upper. Blowoff valves change the intake charge and unless calibrated through a tune then the blowoff valves are fighting the car's ecu because ecu and blowoff valves are not communicated together. That's why this car has electronic wastegates that control boost buildup. Blow off valves override what the ecu thinks it's controlling. Over time many thousands of miles JB4, blowoff valves, and cattless downpipes wear out the motor/turbos. That's why it seems like a lot of cars get damaged with 40K miles because so many people run JB4's or take off cats, and run blowoff valves without proper tuning. That's my educated opinion. If you want blowoff valves for just sound and you want to run just lower downpipes or full catless downpipes then you need a ecutek tune that incorporate those modifications per a good tuner.
@@GettingthruLife absolutely awesome! Thank you for taking time out to give me such an in detail response. With all that said the ecu tek just makes sense. Will buy a heat exchanger and a tune soon. Then hopefully get some wheels and tires, I bought a grey one so I am thinking about running the Nissan Z tire set up. Was watching a video and the guy had Z wheels and tires with perfect fitment and 1 inch springs. I do not intend on getting springs though.
also, a heat exchanger upgrade won't typically void warranty unless you break something directed related to the heat exchanger. Low low chance that a nice heat exchanger upgrade would change warranty. Also, I know people who have taken their car into the dealerships with ecutek tuning and gotten full motor and turbos replaced no hasssle. Just get a good tuner to tune your car where they will look at specific car data which will tell them in a way how healthy your car is. They will be tuning off like 30 parameters. You have crappy turbos that are about to go out they can see signs that they car needs to be turned down. Engine knock will determine how much you can turn your car up. Anyways, nothing is 100% so the absolute safest way and to have zero doubts/worries then best to keep the car factory spec. Hope that helps. These cars are pretty fast anyways so you shouldn't be disappointed whatever you decide.
Thise nizmo wheels look sick. Also if you can get the set of 2023 Z wheels those would be killer too. They are forged and machinedi think. Lighter weight.
@@GettingthruLife I have the awd version what square tire set up do you think would work best? I saw your vid on your tire set up but to my knowledge you are rwd correct? Been looking at getting 285s all around to fit a 19 by 10 inch wheel with +40 offset
i just bought a 2018 3.0 last month, do you know what the difference is in performance compared to the 2019?
Would be identical to the 2019-2022 3.0t performance for the 300hp version.
Depends on wat mods done too urs an if 2019 stock or not
I want to get a used q50 in a couple of years. They're depreciating so fast and I might be able to get one for 20k in a couple of years. I do wish it came with android auto stock
The 2021 and 2022 do come with Android auto and iapple connect. All cars have gained in value since 2020. My car is worth around 5,000 more in value now so it appreciated in value over three years. I would not recommend the lower priced used Q50-60's because youre almost always get what you pay for. Low price more headaches and undisclosed information leading to more expenses and lost time. These cars tend to get used and abused and sold/traded at auction where pretty much all dealerships are hooked into the auction network. Watch on a computer at the sales managers desk, push the buy button and the vehicle from anywhere in the US shows up at the dealer on a flatbed. Auction cars are an inherent gamble but are appealing because can be bought cheap and resold making nice profits at the expense of history and proper maintenance.
Buying a one-owner car with whom the dealership originnally sold the car, plus the interaction they've had with the car means added value and history. I be one of the first to report I see a lot of used Q50 VR30 problems because of unknown/unconfirmed ownership. People who buy their cars new and own them 3 to 5 years tend to report positive ownership feedback and little to no turbo damage or valvetrain failures. Belt issues are also less known and or usually dealt with before they cause damage and need repair that many times is not performed correctly.
I'm about to buy a certified pre owned 2019 q50, sub 25k miles... good idea?
Forsure...if it makes you happy. Certified pre-owned piece of mind. Infiniti dealerships from what Ive seen, stand behind their cars 110%. I've seen and heard things that I thought no way this will be covered and I was blown away. Even with downpipes, blowoff valves, tuning and more.
I bought a CPO 18 model and so far it's been great. The dealer changed the coolant and didn't fill it right. I fixed it per procedure and all good but only because the dealer is an hour away and 2 week lead time.
CPO is the way to buy. They stand behind their cars. Lot of piece of mind. Pay more but get a much better car almost always. That or buy a unknown q50-q60 for cheap but be ready to make do a fair amount to bring it back to reliable and not worn out.
Very good
Can you provide the part number for the OEM wheels so I can try and buy them online? TIA
I don't have a clue what the part number is. I'd recommend call your local Infiniti dealer. Or call one of the online companies selling these specific chrome wheels: www.originalwheels.com/infiniti-wheels/q502019rims.php
@@GettingthruLife how about I give you my 2019 Infiniti Silver Sport wheels and put money on top for yours?
Nice looking tegu
What maintenance do you highly recommend doing to your 3.0t besides an oil change? Great video by the way, do you have an instagram?
Oil changes are key for motor and turbo live for sure. Depends on mileage as that varies from car to car. 5 to 6K intervals should be adequate but if driving more aggressive on a regular basis closer to 4-5K just my opinion. At 35-40K transmission fluid flush and a rear diff fluid change. Just keep an eye on your serpentine under the hood belt. That varies on climate and other factors too. Do not run these car for thousands of miles with lower downpipes, full downpipes, and or blow off valves without proper tuning from one of the guru tuners for those parts. Don't run one E-10 or E15 fuel often unless you have a specific tune. and upgrades. I'd recommend new brake pads for at least the front brakes over the Infiniti to get better braking performance sport or non sport brakes. I have had the R1 Geomet grade slotted and drilled rotors and R1 ceramic performance pads for year and a half now and they added to the car's over OEM brake performance. Keep an eye on radiator fluid level and heat exchanger fluid in the reservoir tanks as some cars can develop porous blocks and not cool properly or bad head gaskets. New tires over the runflats any and all day long. UHP summer or HP all-weather depending on where you live. That's all that come to my mind. Wash you rcar often and use some long-lasting, coating exterior protectant products to protect your clearcoat/paint. I use Topcoat but their are others that are similar. Ceramic coating the best but $$$.
Hello Brian can you tell me what mods you did to get to 513HP, I have a 2019 Q50 Lux with 34,000 miles thanks Jim
I actually have in the ball park of 499-500 hp flywheel/ 445-450 rwhp. Torque was registered to be 510+.
First off to get strong hp numbers you need a healthy car. Next need the basic goodies such as Ecutek 93 octane tune from a popular Infiniti tuner, upgrade heat exchanger, airbox/filter/coupler upgrade, improved/larger flowing catback exhaust system. Some like to add lower cat-free downpipes too.
Result when you bump up the whp/hp, you then need 285-305 width, soft tread compound rear tires for rwd. The UHP tires in 285 and wider are now astronomical in price. AWD cars don't suffer as much from 0-60mph wheel spin but benefit from 275 sticky rear tires and 255 fronts.
Awesome Brian thanks for the information, have a great day!!
What wheel size do you recommend running? For traction with racebox
If you want to run the best rear tires for traction then get 17" rears for Mickey Thompson ET Street R's. They are not really for daily driving and don't do water but just about the only tires after warm that will grip. Width no less wide than 275 but I'd look at 285/295. Must have a 10 - 10.5 wide wheel. Offset +43 - +45. Lowered suspension could cause problems. Sport brakes should still fit but not 100% sure.
@@GettingthruLife what are the tires your currently running for traction ?
Why not try e30 .
To run e30 fuel mix consisantly and safely I would need to retune with Hussain at Racebox. The cost of the retuning is/was an additional $800-900 dollars on top of the original 93 tuning. Hussain recommends doing this process right so the AMS or equivalent brand of e-sensor flex fuel kit should be put on the car's fuel system adding to the already high price and reliability. Then adding one of the ethanol fuel filters kits would be smart to protect the no injector clogging. One last thing to run safely e20-e30 need to upgrade the LPFP. So for everything looking about $2 grand estimate not including install. If you did all this than better to go up to full e85 but then will need HPFP upgrade and some suggest upgrading the injectors too. Mow about $4,000 out of pocket.
Car is fast now...way faster the I can put the power down 0-60mph/60ft. Would need to by new 17" rear wheels to hold the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R tires at about $1,900 more.
@@GettingthruLife you can run e30 on stock fuel system and that’s coming from Alex. I have e30 on stock system I run it Mybe once a month . Car feels great
Unless running a specific tune for e30 there's no gain to be seen. I've run e20-e25 before and my dragy times did not improve, Maybe a decline depending on weather and conditions.
@@GettingthruLife my car is tuned for e30
But u don’t need low pressure fuel pump for that
@@jcproductions89 how do you know how much ethanol is in your gas tank ?
Downpipes changes the whole car 💯
I wouldn't say a lower downpipe upgrade's 12whp would be a felt change. Full catless downpipes can with a proper tune can give around 20hp gain. Both options need a proper ecu adjust/tune so the 3.0t motor runs healthy.
Evidence, ask a valid Infiniti qualified master tuner. 2nd, installed downpipes without a proper tune are one of the biggest reasons why 3.0t Q50-60's have turbo issues and is compounded with JB4 use.
@@GettingthruLife yeah I know but usually people get downpipes before an exhaust cause exhaust with stock cats is pretty useless. lowers or full downpipes the turbos would spool up a lot faster 12whp or 20 more would still notice a difference and I know you had hooking problems before but definitely would now but dealing with the emission test and stuff must be a headache and is definitely play a factor on keeping the cats on
Yes spooling faster would be a neagtive. Faster spooling would be helpful/more beneficial if this car had bigger turbos.
Adding downpipes in my opinion would be about like adding AMS air boxes/Z1 new airboxes after proper tuning adjustments.
For me, per my master tuner Hussain at racebox adding lower dps would not be worth the associated cost. Full downpipes catless with his retune would add some gain but would cost upwards of an additional $2000. (Retune, install, and full dp cost).
@@GettingthruLife new to the vr30 platform, dont want to go crazy on this build honestly im more of a "throw some wheels and lower it a little bit "typa guy but, would you say the jb4 is safe with say, only intakes and a heat exchanger?
I wouldn't go crazy with the JB4 and max it out. I'd keep the boost mild but that's hard to fight the urge to not turn it up. Higher boost levels should come down to physically tuning/adjusting the numerous ecu parameters. The jb4 is a blind device in the sense (the added so-called wires do add more data but the JB product relies on the car's brain to make the correct adjustments but the car's computer doesn't know it has a secondary device hooked up to it which is altering the perceived boost. The car's ecu/ecm can only correct essential engine parameters so much. Paying a tuner to make precise calibration adjustments based on datalogs/actual dyno results is the best way to turn up boost to and past 17 psi in my opinion. Redsport boost is something like 14.5 psi so all the car's equipment and programming can handle that plus some added headroom. In my opinion, 16 psi max including the JB4's added boost is as high as I would go. If you want to see 17-19 psi boost then consider a master Ecutek, trusted vr30 platform tuner. Stay away from blowoff valves in general, not needed and lower downpipes without cbe is pointless but lower catless downpipes and cbe together, 13 feet back of larger tubing will change things enough that the engine management will have to make adjustments. Engine management was set up to run the factory 4 cats and small diameter exhaust per turbo setting wastegate control. My tuner at Racebox states catless downpipes need tuning changes for long term engine health. A cbe exhaust alone won't add much and doesn't require tuning but dp's, ldp's and cbe need ecu calibration for engine/turbo longevity and over all health. More performance gain and better integration of AMS/Z1 airboxes too with tuning for those mods.
Any questions or debates...reach out to any top infiniti V6 tuner and see what they recommend instead of internet Joe-blow's I heard from a friend this works. Hussain at Racebox Houston Texas tuned my car and there are other respected tuners as well like AMS and I'll throw out Sonic tuned and Brandon Btuned which I've seen mentioned.