As a multiple-generation Infiniti car owner, I am very happy with the brand's reliability. I have never encountered any issues with the transmissions, engines, or running parts. The drive trains and auxiliary components, such as the air conditioning and starter, have been very dependable. Nissan, as a company, is known for being conservative and has been using their VQ engine line for over a decade. The 3.0t engine is a direct descendant of the GTR and is an excellent engine. Unfortunately, Infiniti needs to do a better job in marketing their cars, and the sophistication of the engine and transmission is often unknown to the public. As a result, many of these cars end up on the second-hand market, where they are bought by less experienced owners who may mistreat them. This leads to examples of what not to do with your car, and creates a myth that Infiniti is not a reliable brand.
I agree with your consensus. My Infiniti which was bought new and maintained by me has been a very good car. One vehicle manufacturer that I would not say good things about is Ford from my experiences and many of the other similar brands. I believe the Japanese make more reliable vehicles than the rest of the countries.
It's not a ton of effort to eyeball, so just makes sense to stay on top of it. Healthy motor then happy life. Easy for time to escape the mind/fast forward and before you know it, the engine is running low on oil. Also, dirty/crusty intake valves just make a vehicle run less efficiently and there is some power loss with also some loss in idle/start/stop smoothness. The first mod I bought for my new Q50S sig edition was the mishi $210.00 OCC then upgraded the tires to Pirelli summer.
@@issavibez394 They don't burn oil if you get a new one and take care of the motor. Same way with many cars. Boosted cars go through more oil because of the added pressure in the cylinders from a turbo/turbos/supercharger. more blowby past the rings and out the crankcase breather. Then you tune these motors with another 7 to 10 psi and you increased the blowby that hopefully gets caught by an oil catch can and some goes out the exhaust ports. Some people's cars are in bad shape from making poor decisions and the turbo oil seals have become damaged and those leak.
Always love your insight. Simple items like a catch can are hella useful. I really am 5w30 gang forever. My VQ has 195k on it and ive never used 0w20. I think it is smart to follow the guide of changing them depending on climate but idgaf im only using 5w30!
Glad to hear from you! Awesome you have continued to enjoy your Q60. I think a oil catch can is for sure a needed part. If a new car or low miles then people need to get one.
@@tomasurbina6096 The filtered oil catch, the Mishimoto brand oil can needs to be put on when the car is new because it doesn't take long to build up black burnt oil which turns into the dreaded hard carbon on the intake valve's stem, face and the portion that seals the valve seat. A car with as little as 15,000 miles no OCC the intake valves look bad. Video at 3:18: ruclips.net/video/sZQtfbf_2QE/видео.html
@@tomasurbina6096 If I was buying a preowned 3.0T with 35-55,000 miles I think putting a OCC on is to little too late. Unless you plan on a pro cleaned or you will do the cleaning yourself which can be a very nasty/dirty job. I did this on my 2014 Ford Focus ST by hand with 15K on the clock bought brand new and it was very messy and dirty. Time intensive but worth the result in the end if you then do the measure to prevent future carbon and goo buildup from returning. There are companies that specialize in this but its not cheap. May not be worth the cost in some cases. Best to never let it happen in the 1st place.
Thanks for explaining in depth about the catch can and its purpose...Ive always heard about them but never used one b4... I havent ever owned a GDI engine...When I had my 94 probe gt V6 intake manifold off,the valves looked pretty damn clean for 250,000 mi and it was never pulled off before... I cleaned them down to bare metal and the minor deposits were easy to remove especially after soaking them with intake valve cleaner spray...It was meant for GDI engines but did an easy cleaning job on a port injected intake...Ive seen pics of those direct injected valves b4 and its horrific how bad they can look in short time...I believe even the 370z is also direct injected as well...I wonder would the catch can have any benefit on a port injected engine?
Oil blow-by pretty much happens on all engines but the fuel getting sprayed onto/across the intake valves means the carbon gunk buildup doesn't happen as fast and to the same amount. Oil blowby catch-cans benefit most conventional engines in the long run. High performance motors suffer more because of higher compression numbers, higher rpm, more work output. More oil being leaked past the piston rings. All engines build pressure as they work and use oil for lubrication. Another issue of oil mist being pumped through motor is also water vapor, unburnt fuel and other contaminants get passed around inside the motor. These things being put into the combustion chamber hinder and down grade the combustion process and quality of the fuel. Contaminates lower the fuel octane plus other things. The quality and purity of fuel matters to a higher performance engine and making power. I remember back in the 70's and 80's seeing gas stations marketing their fuels as better at keeping your car's valves clean. Most vehicles in the 70s not fuel injected but carbs and in the 80's with fuel injection becoming popular that was portable injection. Those two methods reduced intake valve gunk buildup but clearly it was still an issue. Key is, get a oil/blowby catchcan that uses a filter media verses a baffled only design. The filtered one will likely catch 40+ percent more vapor blowby ( fuel, condensation, oil, sulfer and other elements.)
So, Im a two-time G coupe owner, been looking at the newer year RS models. The thing is, I ragged on my old VQ35 like the Dickens. Traded it at 210K for my G37, which I literally do (barely) any maintenance. I've read horror stories about the turbos just dicking out, even during daily driving. If I were to upgrade, personally I'm gonna stick to a 3.7 Q. Sure it's a bit narrow minded, but they're what I know and I know they're solid.
These are not the best to buy used is now my thought. Too much of a gamble unless you truly know about the car or really close to your local dealership selling one of these. Most used 2016-2021 Q50's are lease dumps, multiple owner and the others are auction cars (not the best place for reliability and quality). Unless buying new or you have a plan to buy a used one and your intentions are to build it up and you have money budgeted for new bigger and better turbos, fuel system and whatever you want to do, then I look elsewhere. I bought mine new and it's been treated well beside the marginal amount of street drag racing stuff. This is a car that wants to be looked after but also just depends on how hard it's being driven. It's not a sports car or a muscle car. 3.7L should do better with the little to no maintenance approach and it doesn't have the added complexity of the turbos, engine knock concern and the supporting electronics for engine/turbo management.
My 18 q60 was lady driven. Dont think the coolant is going anywhere had to put a tad more oil because i have the first gen dipstick,but the pure turbos the heat exchanger doing awesome waiting to get a tune at z1 i hardly drive it,but when i do i granny that thing till i get it tuned. Till then the z pretty much my daily anyway.
Makes sense to drive it softly while running upgraded turbos and no tuning chages . I would assume to run properly and safely at higher rpms the additiinal ecu tuning is necessary. A pretty penny for two new pure turbos, install and a possible rebuilt motor if damage is caused in some area.
Great video. I’ve got a ball in the pit of my stomach after watching your video. I have an ‘18 Q50s. 54k mi and just recently bought an oil catch can. Have yet to install. I’ve known about how important they are for maybe 10k miles or so. I’m pretty concerned about what my valves / intake looks like and how much it impacts the engine.
Nice to hear from you. The good thing is these cars still drive and function with dirty intake valves. It's just with clean, cleaner intake vales, they run better. Every car and situation can be a little bit different. Maybe call around or inquire to Infiniti how much is a intake valve cleaning/walnut blasting job. Call some other places that specialize in the work. Save up some money in the meantime to have it done. Then for sure have a quality designed oil-blowby catch can installed. All this big picture stuff is based around on how long you plan to keep this car. If you just keep it another 1yr or so, 10,000 miles and then sell, maybe not worth the valve cleaning. Just depends on the person and how they keep their cars. Some people go through life and don't care about many things but you sound like you do care about details. In this time that we are now financially with our economy and worldly affairs, many of us may have to hang onto our current cars longer. I am in this category now. New car financing, internal combustion and electric vehicles are too expensive compared to 2.5-3 yrs ago. I won't pay $250-350 more a month for a newer, cheaper car or $350-400+ a month more for the same/similar car. Point is do the best to preserve the car you have and still make it fun and enjoyable to drive. My 2019 Q50 3.0t car payment was $445 a month when financed new. Now I refinanced almost 1.5 yrs ago and $419.00 a month. I am right side up on ownership by a good amount too, about 9K. To buy a new 48K-53,000 vehicle which they all are now, the monthly payments would be nearly $850+ a month.
All depends on the true condition of the car. People and shady businesses are masters at finishing over defects, prior damage and neglect. Dealership have people on staff that make bad cars look good but just under that repair they did doesn't hold up long. Many used car are auction cars with zero history. I'd only consider buying from a person you trust or a well respected Infiniti dealership. I probably wouldn't even buy from a Nissan dealership. definitely not from the other dealerships like at a dodge. These cars with the turbos are not heavy duty race/donut cars and many are neglected. Got to find one that's been treated well and likley modded right by a respected tuner from the get go. Redsports tend to life hard lives. Not saying all are ragged out but look really well at the car. I have a video with things to look at closely: ruclips.net/video/bYLeZSPRS-c/видео.html Absolutely no JB4 crap which is rare because many folks/young adults want more power without paying the price for proper tuning. Avoid these cars with out their catalytic converter and blowoff valves that have been run hard without the proper ecu tuning, (you may not be able to tell). This is a big reason why infiniti 3.0T motors have gotten so many people damaging their cars 2016-2018. This car is all electronics and computer controlled. The newer 2020 to 2024 have more ecu protections to keep people from destroying their engines/turbos as quickly. I feel 2019 and above models the better choice, just my opinion.
Passenger side is a breather and does not put out oil vapor. To buy two catch can system such as Add 1 coat twice as much. I've taken my passenger side AMS intake off down to the turbo inlet and no oil residue. Some people, some systems use a one way check valve but that's not a smart idea. Unless the B&C oil catch can uses a micron vapor filter then it's not adequate. The term or design of baffle or baffles are not going catch but an estimated 50% vapor/fluid blowby. Why my mishimoto occ catches what seem like a fair amount of watery, honey goop.
Also, Just to explain...I called Mishimoto 2 years ago and talked to their parts tech support about the 2 catch can system that came out later (Add 1 OCC) costing $400 plus...The Mishimoto company stated that through their research and development testing that they did see any negative amount of oil/vapor blowby coming out of the passenger side CCV (crank case vent). The PCV, driver's side is the side that blows out the contaminants from the crank case that needs to be caught and returned as a part of the emissions system. Mishimoto personnel told me they did not see the need to charge their customers more money for things (hoses, check valve, added catch can housing) that were not necessary.
I have kept mine somewhat simple. First I added new tires, Pirelli p-zero and got rid of Dunlop runflat tires. Next, I added the AMS airbox kit with filters because I was soon getting tuned with Ecutek software. Got tuned first at Jotech Motorsports Jan 2020. 434 rwhp (at wheels) and 513 torque according to their calibrated dyno-jet dyno. Approx 500 crank hp and 513 torque which is pretty strong numbers. Almost brand new car, tuned at 3K miles. Then I got a Magnaflow 2.5" x-pipe catback exhaust after seeing how small the factory cbe diameter was after working under the car. I still have my 4 factory catalytic converters because these cars (VR30) needs to run with their catalytic converter unless professionally tuned to run catless. Then I wasn't happy with Jotech Motorsports tuning/support so switched to Racebox tuning July 2020. Now, to add/go full catless/catted downpipes I'd need to retune again ($600) plus the cost of the downpipes ($800-900) and the install $500-600. Likely 2,000 dollars cost. Price not worth to me to gain another 19-20 whp. I'm Running stock fueling components and run 93 octane fuel though I did add a AMS low pressure fuel pump at start of 2022 which I bought 2nd-hand from local (facebook market place) guy who had a Q50 but didn't install it in his car.
Just watch when it catches blowby oil vapor, water vapor and other bad elements and then you know you did something valuable which adds up over time. Otherwise that junk/gunk would cling onto your intake valves and the chambers inside the cylinder head. Also then goes into the combustion chamber and mixes with your fuel and air there by decreasing your octane/fuel quality. Just a good idea on a fuel direct injection motor then on top of that DI engine with turbos or a supercharger which increases engine blowby gases/vapor.
@@GettingthruLife like you had mentioned, I don’t drive my car a lot since I now work from home. But I will definitely monitor it now. My friend who had a Q60 warned me about this because it built up so much junk in his valves that he couldn’t drive it anymore and had to just sell it and take the loss. I just finished installing it, took less than an hour. I do have a heat exchanger and the oil cooler, so just some things to protect my car with the performance mods.
@gerardkronemberg5589 Since i installed mine in just 20k miles, I've kept out approx a quart or more of coffee and cream colored cough syrup from going back into my motor's intake. Mishimoto is the only occ with an actual vapor filter. Any other occ with out a super fine vapor catching filter only stops about 20% of the the blowby gunk.
@GettingthruLife that's awesome. I definitely learned my lesson about paying for cheaper parts. You pay what you get for, lol. Mishimoto is a highly respected brand name, and they deliver on their parts. They had a Labor Day sale, so the occ was like $100 off, and I brought it on Amazon, so I got to me the next day.
I have driven my 2018 Red sport 400 for a few years now and I have a AMS red alpha stage 3 kit that was dyno tuned at AMS and only got 414HP (wheel) and 489 ft lbs of torque so I question your numbers but you have some great information. The only thing I would add is the dipstick recall. I am not sure when that was corrected but my 2018 needed it so confirm that as it is important. The recalled one is too long, giving you an inaccurate reading for your oil level. The new one is shorter allowing more oil to be in the car when it reads full. Keep up the great work!
A healthy factory redsport pulls close to 390whp. If you only got 414 whp wirh all the bolt-ons stage 3 you have issues or you misread/ misheard the right numbers. My car with 600-700 miles on odomter with just a tune and a lame burger motorsports heat exchanger hit just over 435 whp and 511 torque on a dyno jet. Company tuning it in late 2019 tuneded handfulls of Porsche, record 2000whp-2500 whp GTR's, 1200hp audi R8s, all the McLarens and Lamborghini track cars. Then I got returned after getting a x-pipe, dual cbe at Racebox so likely over 450-55 whp end of 2020. 450whp is pretty whimpy when compared to most vr30s these days with fuel mods, ethanol tuning and now with bigger turbos or the improved efficiency turbos that were the rage. Almost every vr30 coming out of AMS minimal 430-440whp and many with e-fuel tunes 500-520 whp. (My car at 500 crank hp when take away 13% for driveline loss that ballparks to the 435 whp. (The industry standad states driveline loss at 17%.) A Dodge 392 scat pack at 485 crank hp makes approx 422whp for comparison.
Appreciate all the input but numbers are very subjective. I can only run 91 Octane so I'm sure that is a big factor. I can only share my actual numbers. I was told I would be around 500 if I added the fuel upgrade and move to e85 but I won't likely do that and enjoy the car as it sits. Here is a link for anyone interested in my project ruclips.net/video/CnmWNmILnF4/видео.html
@@kevinbentley3923I've seen likely a few hundred dyno results from 2016-2022 VR30's and 433ish to 450whp is the most common result. With E-30 tunes and support mods VR30's seeing 470-480+ whp. I had a friend with 2018 Redsport LPFP, catless lower downpipes, tuned by Z1 E-30, ams airboxs, fresh turbos, CBE...and he 2 was at 470+whp. That's around 540 +/- crank hp. E-70-80 tune would be close to 600+ whp. With Z1 turbo upgrade I think I recall 690-700+whp. I'm out of the game now and don't follow Q50-60 racing, news and the forums. I still own my car but just drive it and rarely floor it or even spin the tires. Wish I could take out my Z1 rear subframe bushing collars and revert back to factory for comfort now.
@@GettingthruLife, thanks for your input. I am in a rare situation whereas I dont really chase numbers. My modifications are just to get what I can out of the car without losing reliabity but I was never worried about numbers. All I can do I report my actual numbers. My car is almost exclusively AMS parts (have a complete stage 3 Red Alpha package) and tuned on their dyno in IL. The dyno sheet is is the link in the above post. I wish I could add more but appreciate hearing what others are getting. In most cases, you get feedback from people that have not actually dyno'd their cars so I was sharing what my actual numbers were.
@@kevinbentley3923400 to 440whp is more than enough for the street plus the high torque which is the highlight to me. I'm more of a torque person 0-30, 0-60mph. I don't drive fast anymore, to much risk and danger as Texas cities population explode. Have a good day.
I’d say for people who drive more then you should check the oil more then once a month but you make some good content been watching your videos for a while
yea checking stuff/fluids is simple and will or could save big headaches if you catch something early. These cars in good condition don't burn excessive oil but if you get to the point you developed a porous block then coolant disappearing in a short period of time is a good indication to document with Infiniti or if no warranty start planning to resolve.
I would not make that trade on any levels unless it is a q60 or look for an older Q70 I wouldn’t touch an infinite with a 3.0 2.0 in it a waste of car when u could get something more faster and fun ifs it’s not a 3.5 or 3.7 or a older m45 or m37 m56 stay away
She's an 18 q60. No some just on cold start,but it's it's guess work here on temp ,but slight to no no moke on cold start. Intercooler reservoir spot in the radiator about a cup and a half low . It was cold no overheating or anything. Im sure the car would let me know if something is wrong . I love the throttle and steering on my 04 z touring. It's more raw. Only flaw with that. You feel everything in the road .
You still have to get it walnut blasted even if you have a catch can, but it does help a lot, you have borescope your car every 50k to see if it starts to build up.
Most of the catch cans out like the infamous Add1 brand catch only capture about 40-50% blowby because they aren't filtered. Mishimoto has the only CC im aware of with an actual .50 micron filter setup for VR30 bolt-on. This style CC catches likely 90+% blowby that would normally be recycled into the intake ports. Mishimoto tested this stuff when developing their OCC. I've had detailed discussions with their R&D department while doing much research on the topic years ago. I wish I did have a borescope with light to look and document. They are not terribly expensive since these days they hook up to and use phone screen and app. I've considered buying and investing a chunk of my time into looking into my intake ports which would help document and valudate to many with evidence but I don't make enough payback on videos to make everything I want to do worth it. Takes more effort to make videos and put them up on YT than many think or consider. Maybe one day I will have the overpowering urge to do it. If you have video links to people who have done, I'd like to see the links. ( Ihave to searched out the topic recently) Would be extra cool to see someone with the actual mishimoto occ inspect their intake ports and have on video the results with factual accurate results. I put mine on when my car had approx 400 miles from being new. A key ingredient to account for.
Also, Just my opinion and not substanciated fact but I have my suspicion that the lighter weight oil 0w-20 will allow a slight better 0-60mph/60 foot compared to 5w-30 oil. Double edged sword here because thinner oil protects less under high heat and hard driving versus the the 10 extra weight oil rating when warm. Good thing about the 0w rating is in cold weather means the oil will flow easier/quicker when really cold like on a 10-20 degree moring. Quicker flowing oil means the oil flows quicker and get to critical engine parts faster to provide lubercation. Why if you live in a cold climate the recommendation in 0w-20. This car is built wit the oil in mind due to the tollerances engeneried into this motor build. 5w-30 isn't a big vicosity difference from the 0w-20 cold/hot so its fine to use as well but more for warmer climate use. I wish I had the dragy data to show but to do so would require a same day oil change between oil weights and running the car at very similar temps on the same road surface where I have not done this. But I bet I could get data that might show a .05 to .10 improment in 0-60mph because less drag on the rotating engine parts but still allowing a ultra thin layer of oil per the small tollerances this motor has. If someone really pound on their car often and they live in 70-90+ temps close to all year around then 5w-30 would be the oil choice I'd pic due to less oil thinning due to increased heat.
@GettingthruLife hey I wanna say thanks for all the content you put out boss, ive been looking into q50s and q60s recently, and youre videos and knowledge is really helpful. I would also greatly appreciate if you could get in contact to give me some pointers and advice for buying a preowned one 👍
Pointers [bring a flashlight]: 1. check oil level on dip stick (a little higher then middle of the full/low level), 2. look at oil color (light brown/dark brown/black/dark black), 3. look/verify coolant levels on the reservoir tanks HX/radiator with in correct level, look at tire wear: inside tire tread/middle/outside tread, 4. look closely at bottom of the vehicle with flashlight to look for road damage/large scrapes/missing panels/oil spots/rust (where there is residue usually mean a leak or a tear, 5. inspect/pull on serpentine belts, look for cracks/brittleness, missing ribs, listen for squeaks or slipping, 6. look inside around carpet: feel for any moisture/look for discoloration/mildew smell/signs the carpet has been pulled up...indication of flood/water damage, 7. look for signs of water leaks around sunroof: Ive never had a problem with mine but some buying used have seen a leak prob, 8. look at the front spoiler and look up underneath: if beat up and scratch up likely means the preson driving the car was a dumbass or just didn't care, 9. look for excessive rock chips/dings on front of car and possible windshield small/med/large, 10. Road rash on wheels could mean alignment issues, 11. look at inside of body panels for repaint lines, 12. look at brake rotors and look at wear on the rotors: if really warn might need new rotor or tuned up rotors, 13, look under the motor area for oil residue/coolant residue, 13. touch everything in the car to makesure they work/run air con/run heat/move seats/check windows, 14. look at the driver's instrument cluster: is is stratched up or if someone cleaned it did they spend time to use a clean microfiber cloth?, 15. start the car and idle/walk around and listen for odd sounds that might sound different or not right, 16. if you can check the airfilters: means removing the front top cover with those push pin style fastners maybe 10-12 of them, 17, If you can and likely a very good think to do...have infiniti pull up the vin number and run a check on it, I'd even consider have a inifniti look over the vehicle too. Next best thing to buy new is buying from a good/high quality/long standing/reputable Infiniti dealership and consider certified pre-owned with infiniti's actual extended pre-owned warranty. Maybe I will make a video on this and highlight what Ive mentioned here. Best advice is buy the 3.0t turbo cars new but I know not always what people want to spend. We have been living in shady times for a long time now and this include the used car industry. Auction cars bad/to many unknowns. 80% of used car likely to have been an auction car and moved around the country. Also remeber like in the last 7 years there have been more floods and hurricanes than in last 40 years and Ive seen reports of a million cars in last 5-6 years have been damaged by flood water and sea water. Means a car with low miles and low wear on outside can be bought much cheaper and then made to look nearly new and then sold at a big profit but the buyer is usually plagued with issues and electrical problems which can be tough to ever fix right. Carfax and others don't count on them to tell you the whole story.
Hey I didn't get the chance to properly thank you but I really want to give my thanks for not just your wisdom but the time you took to respond back and give me a large amount of feedback, I'm checking out a couple of them pre-owned and you've been a big help to me so again big thanks you have my gratitude boss.
Great advise, thank you! I will be investing in a catch can. 30k on a 2019 Q50 under normal driving conditions, hopefully it's not too late for the catch can. Excellent video. What's your opinion on when to change the transmission and differential fluid on these cars? Thanks!
The oil catch can is a must have for a new D.I. engine but even more important for performance driven D.I. engines since piston ring blow-by is increased and more the engines tend to have increased airflow. Adding a blow-by oil/contaminates catch-can to a vehicle with over 20K miles on its odometer won't be as beneficial as adding to a new car because carbon buildup on the intake valves will have already happened. Depending on the motor/manufacturer the level of buildup will vary but it happens fairly quickly. The best situation is again buy OCC when motor is new/close to new but adding one later will still have and provide benefits by not allowing the buildup to become even more of a hindrance. Plus, the blow-by produced by I.C.E engines do decrease octane/fuel quality as the emissions system diverts the blow-by from the block back into the combustion chamber thru the intake valves and intake chamber. Definitely considering getting a "catch can" with a interanl filter element and not just a so-called baffle design. If good OCC's were less money it would really be a no-brainer to get one at any amount of milage but since these are now $230-240.00, it does make one consider the price verse the benefits. If you do buy a OCC, oil catch can, I'd go with Mishimoto because theirs has both a baffle plate and a 50 micron filter setup. Vapor filters catches way more contaminates and oil vapor because when a motor is runing and get hot, the oil turns into a mist from the moving parts and other contaminates become liquid vapor.
For fluid changes like trans and diff I'm counting on when I get closer to 35-40K I will do a trans fluid refresh and rwd diff oil replace. Motor oil at 5-7K miles depending on how hard the car is driven and the heat conditions you live in for summer.
You can pull your auto trans dipstick and check fluid color on a white surface. Light pink: coolant mixed with fluid/replace, Red transparent: New or like new/no action required, Light brown: good condition/no action, Dark brown fluid but still slight red: old/ needs replace or flush, Very dark brown or black: definitely replace immediately
I am not educated on the older model infinitis. The FX35 was an awesome vehicle in that time and still see a fair amount of them in very good condition. I remember them well. The V8 was cool but maybe that was called the FX45.
Thanks for all your info. I think my valves may be covered in oil. My gas mileage is very poor and I see oil sweat around my plum. Is there a way to clean the valves and get a catch can or is it too late ?
After just 15K mileage with no OCC "oil catch can" the intake valves will have a fair amount of carbonized built up of hard, oil which looks like a black cancer in human lungs on them. At this point it just goes down hill from there. There are places that specialize in Intake valve cleanings because it's a monster problem with many many cars/manufacturers that are direct Injection only engines. There are makes and models of cars that have it way worse than the infiniti 3.0T motor. There are do it yourself methods with canned intake valve spray solvents but nothing will be as good as a professional walnut blast process or doing it by hand with harsh solvents and various brushes takes hours if not 2 days. Search RUclips "clean your intake valves" and there will be many how to videos.
Hey boss, what are your thoughts on blow off valves on this car? I’ve heard they are recommended because of the back pressure that stays in the system keeping the turbos spooling much higher and also prematurely blowing them out but I’ve heard mixed things. Let me know what you think thanks!
Absolutely false info. Infiniti when building this engine knew exactly what they were doing. The people saying so are ignorant. This isnt a 1980-1990's turbo manual trans car. This car is fully electronic ecu controls everything just as it should. In short this car has fully electronic waste gates that blow off boost and adjust the compressor wheel speed. Also, the twin throttle bodies never fully close/snap shut so boost doesn't get backed up when the throttle body valve closes like on a manual transmission car. *plus if you add them and you are not tuned specifically for them, you are creating problems for the motor. i.e. the motor thinks its doing one thing but the blowoff valves are throwing off the air/fuel ratio. Mess with the A/F ratio constantly makes the car run poorly, can cause issues, and cause poor fuel economy. Infiniti designed this car to run perfectly from the factory. Even the Red Sport with elevated boost level doesn't need BOF's to run safely and correctly. If you just have to hear that blowoff sound then you need to get professionally tuned and then that person can tune the ecu to compensate/adjust for the addition of BOV's. Otherwise no gain in performance either way. BOV's without a tune hurt the motor's performance and can cause issue long term use. Also the same with removing the catlytic converters. All emissions parts are working directly with the ECU. you remove any of them and the car will not perform right unless tuner tell the car what to change and how.
@@GettingthruLife thank you. I was just wondering because people were saying on forums that the OEM ones were too small but I’m not a professional and there was a lot of mixed reviews about it. Only reason I have it was because I thought it would help the life of the turbo
@spleafplayzyt8078 This motor has no blowoff valves from the factory. Blowoff valves are old school spring activated from a vaccum or pressure. These VR30 engines are pretty much all electronic controlled and monitored. Listening to most on the forums will lead you down a hole. I stopped visiting the forums years ago. Sometimes some entertainment and some knowledge but use discretion. There's a primary reason why thses cars seem to have weak motors and turbo failures often. It's usually the owners fault and or past owners. With cars today, last 5-6 years, altering how the motors operate often requires ecu tuning or adjustments to see benefits or even run right.
2016 Q50RS 54k non tuned. Did rear differential seals for $900 this year. Also did the transmission valve body for $3000 this month 😮. Hearing about turbo failure and porous block issues has me thinking about selling it! That or buying an extended warranty. Thoughts?
If you don't have leaking of coolant fluid HX-radiator by now I would think you are safe from the porous block issue. Turbo seals wear out over time and as long as you're changing the oil at about 5K instead of 11K the turbos should being lubricated and less likely to to have internal probs. If you can get what you need or want out of your car then it could always be a consideration to sell and then buy another average car with a more simple engine but then again a lot of other used cars can have breakdowns or expensive repairs right around the corner too. Climate has a lot to do with things wearing out quicker. Really dry climates can be extra hard on parts. Really hot climates, really cold climates, really wet climates can cause seals to crack, belts to wear faster, hoses to wear out, cause rust. As long as you like, know your car/vehicle you should be able to kind of gauge where it's at. If you have a strong feeling things are on their way out, then might be the opportunity to sell. One reason I am hesitant to buy used, like buy a 7-8 year old small truck because right when I do, I will likely be the one to experience transmission replace/repair or some other $3000 to 5000 repair which kills the point/value of buying used to try and save money.
@@GettingthruLife Thanks for the response! To be fair I always thought my car was pretty bullet proof until the transmission valve body required replacement. That was the most expensive repair I experienced in my adult life so it freaked me out. I’ve owned it since Jan 2020 and I baby it. Less than 8.5k miles annually. I do oil changes every 5k like you suggested above. I never agreed with Infiniti’s suggestion of 10k. Silly question, but how would I know if coolant is leaking? I park in my garage. Would there be visible fluid on the floor? I looked at the coolant tank while the engine was hot, and it seems to be sitting right at low. I would imagine the Infiniti techs look at it during their multi point inspection but to my knowledge they never topped it off in the four years they’ve completed my normal maintenance. Car has never run hot once to date (knock on wood).
@phil_8367 if there is a porous block condition then the coolant just disappears from the coolant tanks. It slowly leaks into the engine and get burnt up in the exhaust. A sign as far as I've seen is at your exhaust you will see what looks like smoke and a different smell. Coolant when it dries leaves a white chalking reside. You can look for that around the engine area. Note sometimes I see a little residue around my plastic intake cover. The tanks vent at different times depending on temp conditions. Your resistor tank levels will fluctuate up and down but coolant should disappear. Over time some coolant will/can dissipate but it a small amount. Every few month a just eyeball my coolant reservoir tanks. I have not had these things happen so I'm not an expert or can't speak from experience. That part you had fail that was expensive, i'm not really sure what happened to cause that to fail. I would have had to ask the tech/repair person a lot of questions because I don't hear many instances where people report that as service/replacement part/work they needed. I would have asked is this transmission valve body part that failed is it around this mileage point? What causes this part to fail? I don't not why that part would fail and I don't know much about it in general.
I have 2014 q50s with 105k on the odom. Car has been running fine but I've been lacking on regular service. I live in So Cal. Looking to get the 105k service maintenance done but my local Infin dealer/service shop wants about $500 in labor and $200 in parts just for the Spark plug replacements. I cant do it myself. That price seem about right?
I have not researched the spark plug replacement, but I think I've seen that one or two are very difficult to get to on the 3.0t engine. Maybe easier on the 3.7 model. 100% youtube search a couple videos on spark plug replacement. Doing stuff at the dealership is always more expensive, but for many, it's a convince thing. Plus having service work done at the manufacturer provides piece of mind and the work is pinned to the car through the VIN number for future records. Also, I've noticed pretty much all dealerships charge a bogus waste/disposal fee $50 -75 even if they don't need to replace fluids. My car I like to do the basic stuff myself but if you can't then just depends on your ability to source out the work.
Honestly, in my opinion, unless you buy a brand new car or one with very low miles, 3-5K I'd say not worth buying $250.00 OCC. It doesn't take long, many miles for the intake valves on D.I. engines and then boosted D.I. engines to start collecting oil/dried oil "carbon" buildup. I was doing turbo pipe upgrade on my 2014 D.I. (direct injection only) Ford Focus ST turbo car and just because i was taking things off I went another couple steps to pull off the intake plenum t see the intake poarts and valves. I the car new and at 15K miles the intake valve goo and carbon buildup blew my mind. I was sort of angry to say the least. Made me sick to see my low mileage car with the charbroiled oil, crusty carbon buildup and filthy goo. I cleaned them myself, over 3 days with soaking time, and I bought gun barrel brass bore brushes and chemicals that softened up the hard buildup and scrubbed for hours and use my shop vac to pull out the junk. Got them pretty clean, not perfect but pretty good, way better. I immediately bought a Diamond Motorsports brand OCC that was a kit for the Focus ST at that time. Why I told you the story is unless you are getting your intake valve professionally cleaned then they are already coated. The effects of the valves building up carbon won't be felt over a week or a month but over time the air flowing into the intake ports, down the valve stems, past the valve face/valve seat, that smooth flow process gets interrupted or restricted. Just think about how this works when the opening and closing process happens over 45,000 times on a 30 minute drive. Most of the time you won't notice much because the carbon buildup is done over extensive time if you started with a new car. Point is drive the car with 40k miles like it is unless you just want things to always run as good as they can. Some people don't care much. (google: If the engine is running at 4,000 RPM, the valves are opening and closing 2,000 times every minute, or 33 times every second.) Vehicles at different stages of intake valve buildup usually drive fine until they don't. Starts with running not as smooth, rough idle, starts a little rougher. MPG can drop but if you invested in a good, trusted shop to clean them, I bet you'd notice a difference and if you dataloged and GPS dragy timed your car you would see a jump in performance and fuel economy returned. It all just depends on what kind of person you are. I think it depends on how long you plan to keep your Q50 3.0T. Most people have these cars a couple years and lose interest/buy something different so again maybe not worth the OCC investment unless you are meticulous about your vehicles and plan on keeping for long time. If you don't keep long then the next person and so on will pay more of the penalty.
I really appreciate your videos. I just bought a 2019 infiniti Q50S signature like yours except its AWD with low milleage. Can you give more information about the Mishimoto oil cath can and how to install it. I am planning purchasing one. Thank you again sir.
The reason I ask mileage is a Q50/60 3.0t with 20k miles on it already with no oil blowby catch can already have pretty crusty intake valves. Adding a $230.00 oil catch can then isn't as effective afterwards. It's still not a bad idea to stop additional layers of oil/carbon buildup but best to avoid all/most of the buildup from the getgo. Watch videos of the people who use the product Seafoam to attempt to clean their intake valves more affordable. There are some other products as well. Once you have them clean or attemp your best to get them cleaner, then you add the misihimoto oil catch can. The best way to clean is have it done professionally but is pretty expensive, walnut blasting. If low miles on your car then definitely get the misihimoto occ. You go to their website, look for online with 10% discount options if available, and buy directly from them or like Summit racing or similar. I have a video where I install mine. Some say it was tricky for them to connect one of the hoses which takes patience and a level head but can be done with some fanegalling and some cuss words.
@@GettingthruLife 31000 miles. The car runs so nice. I want to minimise the accumulation of carbon on the valves. I live in Canada so i need to check if they are shipping to Canada. By the way, with good winter tires, the awd is a beast in the snow, so well balanced. Thanks
@@danielc1334 AWD is nice for sure. If I could do it again and buy new and awd than a no brainer. These cars now are way more money new, leases are hundreds of more dollars and financing cars are hundreds more dollars since the covid economy. 2019 I made out like a bandit on my car payment. I get offers to buy mine all the time for a brand new one until I see the lease/finance/interest rate price.
I bought a 16 Q50s with the dreaded wastegate rattle. With only 60k on the clock, Infiniti replaced my motor with a new one. Coming from a 13 BMW 335xi,, catch cans I knew to be important on any direct injection motor. And I will say that any catch can is better than none. I did the ADD1 that does come with the baffle minus the big name brand price. It has worked great. I empty mine every 3000 miles and it catches a bunch of crap I don't want my motor eating.
Thanks for chiming in, cool you joined the VR30 family. Agreed, a crankcase, blowby catch can is better no OCC. A baffle design alone, a plate with holes added into it does collect some of the condensed ultta small vapors but just not as well as a dedicated micron filter which seems to only be offered by Mishimoto. Add 1 OCC aren't cheap as when all squad and done close to $200 per single catch can. Anyways, enjoy your ride and new motor. Treat it well and it should be reliable and produce pretty decent power at close to 290-300whp ... 320 with cbe.
Guys I had the same issue of loosing coolant level and I thought I had a defect on my block or turbo, but guess what I’ve changed all the radiator caps on my car and suddenly it stopped loosing coolant, so I assume the issue was from the caps, because the car produces a lot of heat so the caps need to be changed every 2 years I would say, and change the coolant water as well every 2 years trust me you will see a lot of improvement in decreased heat soaking. Now this worked for me I don’t know if it will work for everyone, but I just wanted to share it. And also consider changing the thermostat every 3-5 years as well. yeah because the caps where letting the vapor escape (not holding the pressure in the system) so leading to reducing the reservoir levels so fast, especially with the vr30 which produce a lot of heat. Just consider this solution first, as I might believe that some radiator and reservoir caps may be defected from the factory, but no one consider it as a probable cause as the car is new, so they go for more bigger issues, like blocks issue or turbosleak. POROUS BLOCK. Cheers
Interesting report. Did you notice a fair amount of coolant residue in the area? Or did it just evaporate to the best of your knowledge with no white residue?
Something I also recommend is a oil cooler. The coolant helps heat up the oil, but because of that the coolant temps being high also makes the oil temps high. If they get too high the detergents and lubricant properties can break down and not lubricate anymore. I recommend the Z1 oil cooler. Might also want a AMS heat exchanger. Glad to see you did a catchcan.
Out of the almost 3 years of data logging my car and watching/ reading oil temps, my personal car's O.T. has never been seen to go above 200 degrees. I'm a little surprised, but most the time it almost never goes above 195 even hot, hot summer time. Even when doing multiple wide open + 0-130 runs and 8-9 flat-out 0-65mph Dragy runs. Which is the most taxing thing I would do. Maybe if I were to do competition road course style raceing or tow 1k - 1,500+ lb trailer, it might become worth for me but depends on what people are doing. Adding additional oil cooling capacity would be good for people who see 220 --225+ degree oil temos on a more general basis. Yes I agree, high oil temps will speed up breakdown of lubrication both motor, transmission and torque converter.
There are possible turbo failures, porous blocks, worn main serpentine belt. Good to buy from a reputable seller that will shoot you straight. Do a lot of looking into the car so you don't buy a shinny outside but poopoo/clapped out internals. I made a video of somethings to look at before you buy 3.0T. ruclips.net/video/bYLeZSPRS-c/видео.htmlsi=VDfvsBjgAxf0ujE-
Thanks for the great info. I don't know a lot about the turbo set ups but I've owned a few non turbo Nissan Infiniti vehicles. Why is a catch can not installed during the manufacturing process? Was curious because many others have suggested adding oil catch cans aftermarket as well.
My guess is that most of the vehicle owners in the world/US don't care to open their vehicle's hood and have change and maintain things. Putting on a extra device that requires emptying every few months is a added liability. If an oil catch can is used while full, will cause a backup and potentially other probs or warning lights.
Nothing needs to be covered but generally not a good idea to spray high-pressure water at electrical areas. In my opinion, best to spray the under the hood area with a product like Simple Green. Let it sit for 4-5 min and rinse with a garden hose. Use regular water hose pressure with your finger at the end to fan out the water stream. I feel also ok to use a power washer at the public car washes but they have the engine/wheel spray setting with reduced output and a decreased. Example video: ruclips.net/video/sfMeMKoCPJE/видео.html.
Also check this video out: ruclips.net/video/te7HRwW2ht8/видео.html Q50 3.7 or 3.0T are still car engines compared to any other so general rules apply to all for washing.
I got a lease, brand new 23 luxe is the OCC easy install ? Should I do it on the lease ? It sounds like it’s definitely worth it but for warranty and lease purposes I wanna know if it’s easy to uninstall before I take it in for maintenance
In the long run haul of the car the OCC is a sure thing but since it's a lease and most use it and turn it in after 32-35K then the benefits really come in to play for the next guy or gal. There are benefits when new up to 30k but most of the carbon on the intake valves starts to show buildup as soon as after 15K though my brand new Ford Focus ST-3 trubo had a scary amount after 12K. With the intake valve's shaped is altered from the carbon buildup and gunk covering the intake valves intake chamber less smooth airflow is going to happen, roughing running, decreased fuel economy, startup another revolution or 2, decreased performance though small differences add up over time and long term down the road. Up to you. One of the main reasons buying turnaround leases can be a compromise because the owners put things off because of a lease. No long term worries or commitment for them. Some might say use/d and abuse/d. Not always the case but with lease trade ins but a higher percentage. Congratulations on the lease and new car. When they are new and you do everything you can to keep in running new and looking new, it's a good feeling. Still a fine looking car even after 10 years and I still enjoy my sport styled interior with sunroof, 360 camera/front/rear, electric seats with leg support, semi-soft touch surfaces and the layout.
@@GettingthruLife appreciate that brother keep going with the insights man you do a really good job I guess the only other thing I’m looking at then is what oil to run I live in south FL so it’s HOT all the time so I’ve been thinking of 5w-30 bc of the heat out here
@Lisander jimenez yes go 5w-30. Not really any need to spend more because 0w-30 is a thing but not easy to find, likely have to buy online. Also just buy the Valvoline, Castrol, shell Rotella, Quaker State $22-25 jug and one bottle of same oil because need about 5 1/2 quarts oil with filter change. I like the basic wix filter from auto parts store. Just change oil 5-6k miles so don't need boutique $$ oil brands.
I’m curious how are you getting over 500HP with just exhaust system intake and this pcv oil catch can. Even if it’s red sport it sounds impossible but again I have not been mechanic over 25 years..
It's a ecu tuned vehicle. When tuned by a good ecutek tuner a basic 3.0T can be near 500hp and near 500tq. That equates to 430ish whp. With a 19psi 93 octane tune, airbox/filter, Catback exhaust close to 445-450whp. Over 510-515 crank hp.
Thank you for the video. I am looking at a used 2020 Q50 Red Sport with 38k miles, but I'm now skeptical about it after seeing so many people have tranmission issues. Any tips on purchasing a used q50rs? Would you recommended? Or is it almost imminent to have issues down the road? T.I.A.
I've never heard the transmissions in these cars as being a part that breaks. Non owners of these cars just bag on it because its not a dual clutch. Its a stall converter which is good in its own right. The infiniti trans are known to hold up to 600whp from the factory. Turbo wear and tear is more likely a weak point but covered under the 6yr or 70k mile warranty. I just recently made a video on what I'd look for when picking out a used Infiniti V6 twin turbo car.
transmissions are garbage trust me i been there before had to replace my redsport transmission twice in less than 3 month and the car was stock i trade it in for a g70 then i trade in the g70 for an m340i
@b58forever Just another prime example of "this transmission is junk" garbage with no documented background info.. (its a random post so i get it) You had problems sucks and not discounting your situation. Did you buy your Q50 new, 2nd hand, third hand? Did it come from a random auction or non specific car lot? Did you buy from an Infiniti dealership? Where did it come from when you bought it used? What was the complete history on the car? Did you know the history/service history on your car? Was it a crashed or flooded car? So many unknowns and likely the same case when you bought the car. That's what you get when you buy a used car. Sometimes good and more often bad. The real situation here is likely your Q50 trans was bad, abused, improperly used and damaged, maybe before you got it. People's bought new transmissions and driven on in normal conditions don't just fail unless bad things are/were done to them. Your transmission was garbage doesn't translate to "all" Q50-60 transmissions are "garbage" or "junk". Unless you bought it new, you likely bought someone else's mistake or a shotty secondhandshort buget repair or the typical bought a 2nd hand trans from junkyard or craigslist. A properly used and maintained Jatco 7 speed torque converter transmission is stout and robust when good working order. 25+ people just in 2023-24 online are putting 650-700whp through their oem 3.0t transmissions.
@@GettingthruLife ok i can speak on my own experince the q50 was a 2016 redsport stock and i know lot of people having issues with this transmission i replace the transmission twice. the issue with this transmission is the valve body once the valve body fails you need to replace the whole unit cause the parts get damage once the valve body fail. yes maybe the transmission can hold 600 whp but it have a dafective part the valve body some people are lucky necer have the issue but for most will have issue
Hello, How are you? I live in South Florida and I have a VR30 3.0t with 24k miles. What brand of oil do you use or recommend? the last use quaker state ultimate durability 0w20 ?
Hello, I'm not an oil snob but I also don't run inferior oil. For most of my oil changes I use Quaker state green bottle full synthetic either 0w-20 colder months or 5w-30 for the warmer months. If and when quaker state makes a 0w-30 then I'd switch to that. In extensive oil testing I've read, the ultimate durability Quaker State did very well for a turbo-charged modern motor. I also change my oil often, 4,000 to 5,000 miles so it's always fresh and clean. Most the top brands work and perform great so spending a lot more money for something like oil is overkill in my opinion especially if you stay on top of changing it. I use a Wix basic or medium grade filter too.
If I purchase a non CPO car that still has some manufacturer warranty left on it, can I, as the new owner, extend the manufacture warranty or add protection to the vehicle through Infiniti? or is that only available for first owners or CPO only cars? I really want a Q60 but after doing some searching and finding all of this information regarding turbo failure and pours blocks, I’ve gotten cold feet and want protection. The problem is all of the CPO cars I can find are bland spec and not what I want.
I am no expert but you should be able to purchase a warranty if bought at an Infiniti dealership. You want Infiniti specific backed warranty not a third party warranty as I've heard some people get. Always best to contact Infiniti to verify /discuss extended warranty plans 866-224-9827.
I recommend to ask your dealer about the CPO or some kind of extended protection plan. I believe as long as if you are within that manufacturer's warranty, you should be able to extend your protection. It's also better to get an extended protection plan that is backed by the manufacturer, not some kind of third party provider (yes, maybe third party provider is cheaper, however when it comes to making the claims, they may be more harsh and reluctant on approving the claims). If you go with a manufacture extended protection plan, as long as if you keep your maintenance record with a dealer (oil changes), then your claims should be smooth sailing. Also, when you do claims, you will be dealing with the manufacture and not a random third party company. But again, I recommend asking your dealer, typically the Finance Manger should be able to help with this.
I don't recall. I don't think so back then. That could have changed now in 2023-2024. My car did go in for semi-major service 5-6 months ago so the dealer would have likely addressed all updates and or issues. I've never had heat exchanger issues.
Wow, 6500 miles a year. That car does a lot of sitting. I hav a '21 RS and i love it. And my car sits a lot to. Yeah, i gotta get a catch can. But i always check fluids, Rotate tires and other work i do myself. Tell u one thing its better than any German car - lol...
I have a motorcycle I ride as often as I can plus I have a Sur Ron X e-bike I rode during the last half of the pandemic almost everywhere I could because very fun too. When I can, I let my car sit n the garage. Especially when super 93 fuel was $5 plus a gallon. People in the democrat run states I know paid way more than $5 and that's awful. The first year of ownership (middle of 2019 to April/May 2020)I drove more.
hi new sub here on the channel thanks so much for all the info i wanna do a few things with my 2016 q50 3.0t i guess i will start with the heat exchanger :) and by the way my q50 is 90 k milleage and is firm as a rock not complains heheh always put 93 gas and sintetic oil :)
I have a fair amount of past 3.0T/Q50 content which people can find interesting. I still have my car, coming up on 4 years but at the current time I'm not really adding more parts as my income has not fully returned since the pandemic. You could do different levels of tunes now as more options are available like "more basic "off the shelf" lower hp tunes which are more standardized and dont cost as much. I'm still not a fan of blowoff valves just for sound effect and JB4 boost controllers. Z1 Motorsports seems to be the Q50-60 3.0T go to company these days for new parts with their HX brand, ecu tuning, brakes, inatke kit, exhaust and accessories. What I've come to accept with my car is it can be a great and fun car but more emphasis is placed on comfort, softer-everyday ride quality and clean body lines. and comfy interior. It's not a all-out purist sports car so its not the best as far as pushing its limits trying to make it something it's not , but does what it does pretty well.
Z1 Motorsports $349 solution simple gain/uptick in boost for more power 3.0T www.z1motorsports.com/engine-management/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-hotbox-performance-tuner-p-40680.html?list_name=NestedCategoryEngineManagement&oid=40680%3A0%3A397%3A15&qid=3ce56592b0e38370a6a5840c852d91d8
ask for service records, check with infiniti and run VIN to see any history, check oil level, look at oil condition, look at radiator coolant level, look at heat exchanger coolant level (between full and low mark), Look at paint edges and edges of panel gaps for paint lines ( means likely repaint/crash), look at all 4 tire/tread wear (inside wear as well as outside), bring a flashlight: look under the car well for oil spots and grime spots meaning likely leaks/problems...look for scrapes and impact spots like from curbs or hitting something, make sure all the under body panels are there/attached, look for massive amount of rust, try to look at the engines serpentine belt for old/cracks/warn out, check floor boards for stains or sign of water/pull up floormats, make sure A/c blowing hot air than cold air, check air filters which means you need to pop up the front black plastic panel with 8 push pins. look at exhaust while running look for hint of grey smoke oil leak from turbos or the sweet coolant smell/get down and look and smell.
I don’t have a oil catch can I own a 2019 Q50 Red Sport and it’s been reliable even tho I did tune the car it’s making 520-530hp I’m Fbo I always change my oil Every 3k miles or less I use 5w-40 rotella t6 oil
@@VERY_RAREQ50RS I have known about this for about 3 years and considered too but hadn't made the switch yet myself. Though I'd like to get 0w-30 myself.
@@queuefiddy9063 Bro, you clearly didn't listen to the video and what I stated did not register in your brain. I stated in two spots my car and other similar cars with a good ecu tune can make 500hp and 510 tq backed up by actual local Dyno Jet dyno +/-. This is at the flywheel as almost every vehicle manufacturer states their hp numbers. Also, that was the old tune without the much better and bigger CBE which was added and retuned at Racebox whom is a better tuner. The car as sits in the video makes in the range 445-450 rwhp. Not a high number or unrealistic. Also, just to clarify, when I stated the average 120-150 hp gain for a tune, that's when added to the base model Q50-60 3.0T 300whp version. All the information is correct and accurate.
Best thing to do is go to mishimoto website and enter car and year. Pulls it right up for you. Likely can score a 10% discount code too found on their site when you visit.
Getting an engine replacement for my 2018 3.0T awd.. metal shavings were in my oil… the new engine is going to have 59k miles. Whats the life expectancy of our vehicles left completely stock?
There's so many variables at play. That would be like me predicting how long a random off the street 20 year old is going to live. All/a lot is determined by the previous owner/s. If you had a new motor to start with and you routinely changed the oil and fluids to the full levels then much more predictable results. People report 100,000+ miles on 2016-17 models. I'm sure there are loads of 18-20 year old infinit's with 125,000-150,000+ running around. I see them all the time and many look in fantastic shape and sometimes I cat with the owner. They live their car/suv/crossover.
This is because the VR is not a reliable engine. If someone asked you what the VQ37s lifetime would be, you'd tell them about 300k miles easily. The VR can't even touch half that milage without blowing something even when maintaibed correctly. B58 is what the VR should have been
My warranty period is still good. Long history of people who have been ecutek tuned and have used their Infiniti warranty if they needed it. Just depends on many variables and dealerships. Even damaged turbos from the own negligence blowoff valves, jb4, cbe, airbox/filter and catless downpipes.
My car the 2019's oil temp never exceeds 200. I don't now why you need to upgrade oil to more oil cooling. Maybe if road racing but who road course races a Infiniti? Towing...a possibility? The Redsport model definity needs a bigger/better cooling hx. If I had lots of money the mishimoto twin top mount intercooler would be super cool to have. Redsport have dual hx motors and the companies like AMS say its worth while upgrade for the non redsport folks. Hx to look at: ams, mishimoto, aam, plm, z1 Motorsports. Whichever one floats your boat or the one you can save the most $$$.
Occ will not stop the build up. Nature of a direct injection engine. Had occ on my Focus ST and build up still happened. Oil change every 3000 miles 🤷🏾. Bought it with 34 miles and 99967 miles it had a Occ. At 100,007 miles I looked at the valves and they were coated. Looked like a diamond mine. Traded it in for the Q50 RS. Occ was wasted money. It’s going to happen regardless.
Not all catch cans are created equal. Most basic vapor blowby catch cans are just a "janky" baffled design. That won't cut it. The actual filtered type is the one that works. I had a 2013 Focus ST as well and I bought a Diamind Brand that was recommended from the ST Forum. That was the only OCC availble as far as main stream bolton. I knew nothing about occ then. Obviously, if you stop or severely limit all residue blowby from being injected into the intake ports, then you won't have the buildup. DI engines suffer intake valve coaking/buildup because of the emissions system. You, in your situation didn't stop the emmissions system blowby from reaching your DI intake ports. Reason why I preach in 3-4 prior mishimoto catch can video i have made, only buy the Mishimoto. Many people opt to buy the inferior Add One brand, just baffled catchcan brand. I really wish I could justify the cost and effort to buy an endoscope camera and look down into my intake ports. At this time Mishimoto is the only brand that sells the 50 micron filtered oil vapor blowby catch can.
@@GettingthruLife not here to go back and forth with you but I have that same Occ on the Q50 (Mishimoto). I have a family member(brother), certified mechanic 15 years, that has a endoscope camera and we are already seeing build up starting 🤷🏾♂️. 27000 miles🤷🏾♂️. I bought it with 4000 miles on it. This is what led me to say Occ are a waste of money. The oil that they do catch leads you to believe it’s working but buildup is still happening 🤷🏾♂️. It’s the nature of the beast. DI has its pros/cons. Buildup is just a byproduct.
You mentioned a Focus ST and not a q50 with a mishimoto in your post..I don't read minds or thoughts. I read your post. If you think your mishimito occ is a waste of money take it off and sell to someone else. 4000 miles with no catch can is enough mileage to allow some oil vapor to be deposited, which would turn into some buildup which your family member mechanic saw. You likely won't listen but I had my Focus ST with only 10k on motor no catchcan and it's intake valves where extremely covered in carbon and goo. Direct injection is not the nature of the beast in the grand scheme because being DI alone does not cause carbon buildup on intake valves. It's the emmison system added that directs the crankcase vapor through a hose up to the pre-intake valves. Disconnect this emmissions pcv and then the ccv hoses then the intake valves stop getting coated. Downside is the emmisions system built into the car is functionally a part of it. Reason a person can't just disconnect it and bypass to the atmosphere plus it's illegal. Disclosure, i never stated that the mishimoto occ catches 100% all "blowby by" but 85-90+ is way way better than 50% or no OCC at all. I truly wish I could justify the time to look at my intake valves. Then I could prove what I say/think. I put my mishi occ on with approx 400 miles on my odometer as documented in my 1st, Q50 3.0t mishimoto install video almost 4 yrs ago.
@@GettingthruLife not trying to argue with you at all. I never said I had a Mishimoto on the ST. Go back and read my post. No mind reading needed. The Q50 has the Mishimoto. As I stated in my second post at 27000 miles I’m seeing buildup and as you said it’s not 100%. This is also why I say a Occ is not solving the problem of valve buildup 🤷🏾♂️. You say it catches 85-90%. I think less. Again this not an argument! Just two guys talking cars. If you in DFW area let me know.
Best thing to do skipping to the point is watch a hand full of self-cleaning intake valves videos on youtube. Get the best understanding you can and how you want to do it yourself. There's good videos out there. Best but most expensive would be to have them cleaned professionally so 100% sparkling shinny new look. (get photos before cleaning if you get/have access to see them, to share on the internet). Then I'd buy the Mishimoto Q50/Q60 blowby oil catch can (.50 micron bronze filter). Mishimoto has some 10% off discount codes I see from time to time. Just baffled catch cans alone don't fully catch and separate super heated moisture vapor from the airflow through the can which then flows back into the intake port.
After 4 years with this car and researching a ton and my general experience I'd select 0w-20 for cold weather 50 and below if you live in a climate that stay that temp a lot. I'd select 5w-30 if you live in a climate that stays more hot, like 80 -110. 0w-20 oil gives better fuel economy and the reason Infiniti ship these car with that in them. For more warm/hot engine protection on warmer day 5w-30. Don't do 10w-40 or 5w-40 or 20w-50 because of this motor's tolerances and design. So folks have mentioned there you can buy 0-30 which is the best of both worlds but no as easy to buy and likely more expensive, JFYI online order.
If coming from the mid to rear section of your car could possibly be driveshats or the section that it splits into to sections. Could possible be the rear differential, maybe a wheel bearing going out?
All depends on the car's internal health. Check the oil level, oil color hopefully not black and the consistency of water. Check radiator level, check heat exchanger coolant level on reservoir tanks. look at the four tires treadwear patterns, Do you best to inspect the serpentine main pully belt for excessive wear and crack. One thing about buying used with 50-60K mileage is you likely are the one spending the money on maintenance items. I'd consider a trans flush, replace of diff fluid and even a brake fluid replacement. Likely the brake pads are close to needing to be replaced too. Worth it if you get a well looked after car and not worth if it's been poorly looked after. I personally from the horror stories would only buy this car new but you can I'm sure find good ones. I personally would try to buy from an older 35-55 yo person who's the original owner and can validate the car. Otherwise I would not buy from any random car lot and likely not from a different car dealership that knows very little about Infiniti. A lot of these cars are bought at auctions and in reality, the auctions are an unreliable source for quality and history. Like I've suggested many times, write the V.I.N down and call Infiniti help line/or go to a quality/up scale Infiniti dealership and have them look up the history on the car you want to buy. I would not buy these cars with little to no history. With all the natural disasters happening these days, used cars could have been in a flood or water damaged last 4-5 years. Half a million cars last 5-6 years have been flooded and many with salt water.
Brother I’d keep looking, I bought mine private owned 4 months ago 2019 with 24k miles at 25,500$ off an older lady she was the first owner. Be patient when searching as it always pays off
Bought a 2018 Q50 sport 60k miles, and the heat exchanger reservoir is full of oil. Seems like power steering fluid or some type of fluid that is gold in color. I removed the reservoir and sure clean gold colored oil. How the hell is that possible. Previous owner put oil in the wrong place?
Man that is nuts but a lot of people don't have a clue and dont want one. Likely need to do a chemical flush too. Like means the car was run hot which could lead to more wear and tear. Then makes me wonder about the heat exchanger motor/pump condition. Those are not cheap.
I bought a q50 2.0 with 90k miles on it,I’ve searched the vin and seen a transmission fluid change has never been done,should I do it or you think I’m going to have any problems?
I would think that's a lot of miles if no trans fluid change. I would expect/think I'd do trans trans flush or trans partial/full replace at 40ish 1000 miles. If I were you, I'd call Z1 Motorsports support and ask one of their infinit/nissan transmission gurus what they recommend. Then buy your fluids from them. They know everything about these cars. I am not well versed in transmission repair, fluids, and proper intervals and practices. I in the past 13-14 yrs, I buy new cars and sell them every 2 years. I had a very nice 2006 -2007 Ford Taurus, bought used with 35k miles. Drove it into the 80k+ miles with no trans fluid change. Likely never had trans fluid anything done. When I hit 85k the trans went out, broke. Cost to fix or swap to a reconditioned trans was estimated $3,000 -4000k. I traded the car broken for a new Ford car. Was a sad day. I liked that fully loaded, leather Taurus. I had a full sound system installed in it and brand new tires and battery.
Awesome man, just keep tabs on essential things: fluid levels, fluid consistency, serpentine belt for condition (some folks car's due to the environment need this belt replaced sooner). If you or the person before you bashed on the car often or regularly, then hard driving takes its toll on drivetrain parts. All the popular cars have their own shortcomings when pushed. Maintenance helps. A car with 30 to 40k start to think about brake fluid flush, diff oil change, trans/converter fluid flush, unless oil look fresh replace, maybe a blue hx/radiator coolant replace. All just prolongs/extends further operation.
From looking at the Mishimoto internal portion of their CC I see it has the parts needed to successfully capture the most crankcase blowby, deverter plate, a plate with holes in it midway down, and the bronze 50 micron filter. As far as I've seen, companies like ADD W1 dont show what the inside of their CC's consist of other than just saying "baffles" a bunch of times. Same with Z1. what does their inside look like? How does it function to catch oil mist and condensation? I like Z1 products as they make a lot of performance parts for the Z and Q50-060's. I just have no personal experience with a Z1 oil catch can. If it doesn't have a filter that attempts to catch moisture and mist (oil and water vapor) being blown into it, then it will only catch/stop say 50% of the blowby entering the device. It's why I have had people through the years say catch cans don't work because they report still having gunk on their intake valve while using one, but then I ask "what brand catch can are you using". I never hear back from them. Interesting fact: A glass pickle jar with a metal top and two holes cut in it for the two hoses rrun into to it will look like and function like a generic catch can. It will catch some oil contents but not do the job very well. The point of a good catch can is to catch nearly all of the oil/vapor blowby being sent through it. An inferior catch can design just means you intake valves will get gunked up slightly slower. That's my honest opinion and why I believe in the Mishimoto design.
@@B_Law726 Mishimoto seems to be one of the few who show the internals of their catch can: www.z1motorsports.com/oil-catch-can/mishimoto/mishimoto-compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-port-p-11657.html?list_name=SearchResults&oid=11657%3A0%3A83521%3A91&qid=4bff379ce248b2f5fe842ae8acc958a2
@@GettingthruLife How easy is it to empty the catch can and what frequency? For example, check and empty with every oil change or every air filter change (once year)?
@B_Law726 on the Q50-60 with the specific mounting bracket that cones with kit, I take out the 3 small bolts that hold Catch can to the bracket. Slip the CC away from bracket and out between the driver side intercooler then unscrew the bottom portion of the catch can. Just depends on the car, how much driving ones does. You get the mishimito CC, in first month check it/clean it out then will have a better idea of how often it needs attention. I check/clean mine out every 3-4 months. If I drove more, maybe every 2 months. With these turbo cars, it's not a bad idea to be eyeballing fluid levels about the same times anyway (coolant levels and oil level) so not a big deal.
Keep an eye on coolant resivor tank levels. If coolant is vanishing, then it's likely being leaked into the combustion process from a porous block or gasket failure. I've found it hard to smell the exhaust fumes for what people claim is a sweet smell when coolant is burnt. Also, exhaust when cooler usually looks smokey even if in the 60 degrees. Also, can send in oil sample to Blackstone and get analysis to see if coolant is in your oil. Sometimes can drain oil and see coolant in it if bad enough.
@@AntonioRodriguez-xp9viI'm not a specified vehicle mechanic or a self-proclaimed Infiniti guru expert but could be a head gasket issue plus some engines have encounter porous block material too. The coolant over time seeps through the pores in the metal and then gets into other areas where it's not supposed to be.
@@GettingthruLife am going to do a coolant bleed tdy and keep an eye on the level . As for my head gasket I haven’t encountered any other symptoms of a bad one but I’ll keep you updated on the the problem so you’d like to share it in the future
500 at the crank. This is how all cars sold new, last 40 plus years advertise their car's factory hp. Mustang 5.0 and all the high hp Dodges the same at the flywheel numbers. In the world where casual people live, I just sometimes quote flywheel rating. 434 rwhp, my actual dyno # and 510 torque ( Jotech Motorsports Jan 2020). GT 5.0 460 hp and 6.4 dodge 485 hp. In my not so naive opinion, modern transmissions are less of a drag than those found in the 1990's and early 2000 sporty car transmissions. Instead of .18% it's now closer to .14 maybe .15 max % loss to wheels Lower. With catless lower only downpipes good for say 10 more hp with tuning. Full catless downpipes takes that up 20-22 more hp with the proper tuning. I'd be right there at 455+/- rwhp with that setup tuned. Just elected to keep my 4 catalytic converters and tiny 2" factory downpipes.
Also I made a mistake. It got to 19 degrees here's nothing in the reservoir. I did top off it was lottery none. It's supposed to stay between min max that tiny bit. Put it bottom line at max I got the tune I use 0w20 I use 10w40 in my z. I got the tune. Yeah more user error you abuse it it's gonna break. Common sense. I did get a mishimoto oil catch can. Not even driving hard it consumes Where's it's twin turbo def need. Yeah I was personally paranoid. Until it contracts and expands. Tuned in the q50 or q60 mine is an 18 used like I said it'would have had some if it was abused. The turbo seals,but where I live and my eyes suck lol. No change I topped off when I wouldn't have again. This car is so complicated.
Always keep an eye on fluid levels, once a month to keep tabs on things. If one of the fluids always disappears then there is a problems that needs to be addressed. The car in a sense gives the owner signs that its not feeling well and need to see a doctor/infiniti service.
I do every week. At full warm up and driving it's at the bottom of the max when the beats on it stays a bit over half way. Think I got lucky. Mines an 18. Not all q50/60 were plaqued by this issue but,guess I got lucky.
Could be a number of things. Warped brake rotors, worn out ball joints, bad tires. Could be from an accident or just worn out parts. An alignment shop might be able to find the issue or a general mechanic with vehicle up on a lift.
Do you love it? If you do then sounds like a good deal. 9K is low miles so you should be better off on that front. I bought mine new in 2019 July and I think it stickered around 44K before taxes/fees/junk. I would think the 2020 sport version in 2023 is a good price.
A oil/vapor blowby catchcan?.. no, just need one OCC hooked up to the primary pcv line located on the driver's side cylinder head where the specific emissions hose is.
check oil every 1k miles? my chrysler with 125k does not need that much attention. ill check midway between changes and call it a day. never had to top off.
Its just good to keep an eye on fluids nothing difficult or maintenence heavy unless bought into a turd.. Some and many run these 3.0t motors with mods into ground and neglect maintenance. With a torquey motor and twin small turbos pushing 300, 400 and 500hp have more oil blowby than non forced induction.
@Kulxc Southern/Central states heat and humidity is nasty and kills people. I've been to other states hot climates and piece of cake. Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and even southern Arkansas is pure he'll. I will move if/when I have the opportunity. I was in my 2019 low mileage Q50 yesterday during this heatwave, most time I stay inside, had to drive and my wonderful cars A/C felt like it wasn't even working. It couldn't cool the air it was dealing with.
I think a good rule of thumb is 5w-30 for warmer climates 80 and above. 0w-20 for cooler climates 10 degrees to 70. 0w-30 synthetic oil if access to it and added cost is what you do.
@@vonksummer9099nope. It’s better. Just don’t use it if you live in places that get below 40 degrees. Also put in 6.2 quarts and buy a z1 updated dipstick.
I'd say not the end of the world if you don't get OCC. Now if you had your intake valves cleaned, then by all means yes. If you were ever had engine work done where your valves could be cleaned because the dealership is removing parts or doing extensive work then 100 percent have them cleaned and then get at least the Mishimoto 50 micron filtered catch can. (After 15K miles from new a VR30 motor's valves will be pretty coated in black carbon buildup in the intake chamber's of the cylinder heads. It just happens.
I'd only buy and install one (oil catch can)at 80k mar if I had a new motor installed or after valve cleaning procedure. It might be better served, money spent to have an intake valvve cleaning done by a shop. Get before photos and after photos as a trophy or badge of honor.
Some people just want to be oblivious, uneducated intentionally or unintentionally, but yes emissions blow-by, simply put, gets caked on the backside of intake valves on plenty of D.I. motors.
@@monicababy1056You mean the Mishimoto oil catch can? These used to be $225 now 260 as we know everything has gone up. Sometimes Mishimoto offers a 10% off coupon code. www.mishimoto.com/infiniti-q50-q60-catch-can-2016.html
Literally tons of people around the world and vehicle publications that identified/ referred Nissan's latest 2-door sports car the 400Z, www.autoevolution/news/2021-nissan-400z-renderings-preview-twin-turbo-v6-production-model-144897.html Also, tons of average people, people who own the car who saw the plausible name mentioned "Nissan 400z" and still use the moniker even years later such as myself: ruclips.net/user/shortsrXxjyabvSPc ruclips.net/video/RbphoWb0hPg/видео.html , ruclips.net/user/shorts5rE3kJIIRpM www.youtube/shorts/VuH2hzxcnFI
I honestly think that you should have written down everything that wanted to talk about before filming the video. I mean, who doesn't unless it a live stream...
To be honest the people who are the biggest critics and most likely to try to share their advice or perspective are always 99.9% the ones with no videos of their own that they have made, zero or very low subscribers and also very little positive YT activity. I can see your channel activity and history very easily. With RUclips viewers this likely means either they have no/lack creative talent, they are scared themselves to make a video based on their voice or their presence, they are super lazy, they don't like talking to or in front of people, and maybe they have nothing what-so-ever interesting to say. Hard to take advice from or listen to someone who has no foot to stand on. I do this for fun and many times just to try to be helpful in some way. Someone or anyone who doesn't like what I do, how I do it and/or fails to gain anything from watching my videos is always free to leave.
@@GettingthruLife Well that doesn't change the fact that you should've prepared notes before making this video. I truly enjoyed reading your touchy response. It was really entertaining. Thank you 😊
@@nightcoregirlprinzeugen7234 Go make a 100 videos where you talk, present and edit then get back to me in a year. There are different approaches to making videos, different styles and to say I don't do something right or think about the process or practice is because you know very little about it and you have little to no background to speak from. Most youtubers would just delete your comment and move on but I don't like to do that but I can.
@@GettingthruLifeI liked your video and I subscribed to your channel. I wouldn't do so if I didn't like your content. I don't make videos, I just watch them. You're the expert in this field and I will acknowledge that fact. Ok? Thank you...
@@nightcoregirlprinzeugen7234 I'm not mad or upset but I can 100% explain myself and share my respons. Reason I am quick to go into a detailed response is because making videos is not as easy as "non making video" people think. People that spend time making videos usually don't feel the need to critic other's videos unless specifically asked too. I am not a professional actor , trained in acting school, or am I making a movie or a paid advertisement. I watch hundreds of videos in a week with a large gap in quality and expertise but I never feel the need or justify the fact to tell a individual person what I dislike about their video, what they need to do better or in some people's cases leave a foul or distasteful message. thanks for leaving a like and subscribing> I appreciate you comments and do take things typed into consideration.
Infiniti does a good job of representing their warranty coverage from the people I've known that need to use plus plenty of others that had expensive repair/replace needs.
Here's a thought, from a former G35 owner. Lose the Infinity, its a glorified nissan hence garage. Youre better off buying a civic or camry. I have never hated a car as much as my infiniti. Nothing nut problems, too many "dealer only" overpriced parts, high maintenance costs, poor electrical (💩 soldering connections), poor quality of interior finishes, etc. Ill never buy an infiniti/nissan product again.
My infinite car experince is vastly different than yours. A lot of people and seeming more and more younger people are buying used/preowned Infiniti and its not usually done from reputable, established Nissan/Infiniti dealers. My car is pretty wonderful, comfortable and since I've onwed 30 years of cars and trucks, I'd suggest fit , finish and quality is high for car under 50K new with near 300whp. I bought new and I take very good care of the things I own so that makes a difference. If you buy into a turd, usually that is the buyer fault and of course likey to have issues, problems and faults. Just putting Infinit up against the likes of Audi, BMW, Alfa Romeo...they actually score semi low and are more expensive and parts. Sorry you had a bad experience with your 2003-2007 year model Infiniti. Maybe look into buying a new or low mileage 15-20K, well cared for 2019-2024 model and maybe your opinion would change.
@GettingthruLife yes well not all of us can afford $60 grand for a new "luxury" car. Most of us are stuck buying Hondas or Chevs, etc. My position stands though, and I've seen hundreds of videos complaining about same issues. Faulty soldering resulting in defective instrument cluster, cheap plastic in seat motors resulting in them failing. Cheap thin steel that rusts like no ones business, etc. My civic had twice the km, was arguably worse cared for was spotless undercarriage. My G35, once I started cleaning it up was rotted to the core. Then there's the issue with their transmissions, most of which are junk and prone to known failure points (tranny cooling system), the junk cvt tranny they use. I can't speak for you, but I AM mechanic trained and have always done my own work on my vehicles, so I to speak from an experience of actually having to do the service on them. Not just driving around.
I used to watch the RUclipsr StangMode because before the Infiniti Q50 purchase I thought about buying a 2018-2019 GT 5.0. The Ford dealers were quoting me insane financing prices. Anyways, he did a J&L OCC (oil catch can) video showing that platform only benefited from a single catch can system. I can't find the video now, I tried.
@@issavibez394 Oh for sure the newest 8 and 10 speeds are really good. This seven speed is perfect for this car. Its not intended to be a all out sports car. Its a good mix between comfort, reliability, smooth for the most part and it can handle up to 600 whp which is impressive. Nothing wrong with a transmission with a torque converter setup.
@@khabrahasunny1947 I would say for a newly purchase q50/60 VR30 3.0t its a must buy. Buy as soon as you can and install. For these cars with 30K+ miles I'd debate it. If you plan on keeping the Q50 for 10 years and you are in love with it and plan on making it 500-600 whp fun car then buy a $200+ Mishimoto OCC. Otherwise if the car you've bought used has 40K miles then the intake valves already look pretty bad as far oil gunk and carbon buildup. If you plan on doing a valve cleaning or have it professional done walnut blasting then of course buy a Mishimoto brand which come with their bronze 50 micron filter which does all the work separating oil/liquids from the air which gets sent back into the combustion chambers.
Feet in videos is knarly yes, but I get lazy. During nice weather I like to wear minimal clothing. Athletic shorts, tanktop and no shoes. My dog chewed my last pair of sandals that I liked.
I love "Maditory Items". A big one is the terrible transmission. They're trash. Also a motor is electric; and engine is the word you're after. Also MPG is not a good indicator of which oil you should use. Some really weird content. 17 minutes to say - get a catch can, check your fluids. FFS.
You must not have this car like 99.9 of the negative commentors. And looking at your channel gives me a good indication of who's commenting. Of course, you have zero videos and zero car/ mechanical content. Plus, it seems you must lack the skill to make, shoot and post a video/s but the commenting part is super easy. The transmission in this car is just fine. If you own this car, then tell me why this 7sp trans with the stall converter setup is terrible. And yes mandatory unless you like and appreciate compromised intake valves. My entire life, 50+ years, I've heard an read engine also called a motor and the vast internet agrees. Google motor oil and then engine oil. You really must have personal issues if you find this a problem which you do. I can't help you there. Note: your comnents are one of the more weird I've gotten on 177 Q50 car videos, nearly 5yr running and over 1,000+ comments. Congrats! In closing, you need to do some basic research on automotive engine/motor oil because a manufacturer picks their oil viscosity/weight based on many variables which can be centered around efficiency and mpg. -Google it If you don't like the video, or you get triggered by it, then best advice is don't/stop watching. I hope you find this acceptable.
@@GettingthruLife Straw-man argument with layman's ideas and a whole lot of assumptions does not make you correct. Plus you spelled "mandatory" wrong in the thumbnail. Muppet.
Try making some videos yourself and maybe have more understanding. Making video for some is like telling a story. It's my story and not a advertisment. Anyways, i will think about your criticism.
@@DonnythelatemodeltechDo your research on this car and a catch can before you make stupid comment is all I can say. Just search "clean intake valves DI or GDI engine" to see. A proper OCC installed prevents the blowby going into PCV which deposits the buildup on the valves. And you call yourself a mechanic, yikes. Own the car and then you may learn more about it.
@@DonnythelatemodeltechI own this car of course new and I also owned a new Ford Focus ST, another turbo direct injection engine. Turbos/forced induction compounds and magnifies the carbon buildup on the intake valves, period. All do to the due to the increased air escaping past the rings. I saw/have seen the results of how a proper oil catch can works, with a micron filter, and the results of using the catch, what it captures from the PCV emissions system. To deny the benefits of using a proper OCC just mean stupidity and or arrogance. I'm not a mean person but truth be told. Every few months because I don't drive a lot, as much as some, I empty my catch can and in those times what's caught is up to half a baby food food jar worth of water/condensation, oil blowby and other contaminates that looks like maple syrup blended together. Not only does this blowby build up on the intake valves hurting performance and drive-ability, it also lowers fuel octane and the quality of the burn in the cylinders which can increase engine knock. Just do your research before commenting on something you seem to have little experience with. I've been doing this for four years plus Q50h and another 2 with the Ford Focus ST. I'd safely assume up to 2 quarts of nasty blowby has been caught over the time period with the Infiniti/Nissan 3.0T motor. I have videos showing draining and what the contents have been. I have a couple hundred Q50 3.0T videos. Just watch the1000's of videos online until you can't watch anymore and deny. Some cars/vehicles are worse than others and it's a very common problem that plagues many direct injection vehicles, fact. Answer/solution: is to try and catch the blowby in the PCV before it's sent back through the intake per the EPA. One out of many, many videos: ruclips.net/video/LTV-uHv5Cwk/видео.html
Haters are common in the car world and more so on youtube. I have the calibrated Dynojet session, actually many done by a local Master Ecutek tuner. And at the time 3 years ago it was done without the current 2.5" dual/x-pipe cbe I have added now and then retuned. I have 175 videos on this 3.0t Q50 so lots of content where you will find the tuning video that documents the 433.7 rwhp and 513.14 max torque. Note: if you add back the 15% loss from the driveline that shows the estimated +/- hp at the crank which is 499 +/-. Many folks in the Vehicle Industry still use .18%.
As mentioned done 3 years ago (dynojet results) @ 5:13 ruclips.net/video/YCxr2tFv5-k/видео.html🤭 I like you, have now been tuned by Hissain at Racebox which was done 2.7 years ago because of the refinement and his added knowledge with the Infiniti/Nissan VR30 motor.
Why so much effort to respond, Big Dog? Independent of the fact of the matter, telling people catch can, air intakes + catback (no mention crank or wheel, with a tune as an afterthought = 500&500. Deceptive, at best. Not a hater...or a poser. We can tell that because i'm not posting videos as any kind of authority on you tube. You have a good day.
@@thinkfast469 By the way a person that has to confirm and justify their comment on youtube with silly faced emojis to try and sink their point in is either an immature adult or a female. Again by you referring to me as Big Dog is apparently your immature way of holding conversation. Attempting in some way to be cute or sharp witted or degrading. Just stop showing your so-called intelligence or better yet lack of intelligence. (Note below: Jotech Motorsports showcases under Infiniti along with their tuned Porsche, Lamborghini, Mclaren and etc, their Q50-60's with what amounts to the Dynojet 438 to 445whp with just their Ecutek 93 tunes, intake upgrade and CBE. And yes, when I said/say hp I mean hp as stated in the video. Clearly not whp/rwhp/awhp. (sometimes I guess I need to assume not everyone is on the same level of knowledge and understanding) General hp is rated at the motor. Note: Every car manufacturer on the planet states their vehicles rated power as hp and not whp. In the video I was no different. No deception as you say but only in your mind because you didn't listen or it didn't compute. ***Also, video never stated or intended to specify that an oil catch can adds hp. That is literally idiotic for you to suggest and you did because you wrote it above. Video's topic was generalized around taking care of your Infiniti 3.0T. Your initial post should have been just taken down because it's really just you posting inaccurate accusations and it's like you didn't even watch the video. Note: If you just want to battle with me I will consider removing your comment/s and possibly removing you JFYI. and be done. www.jotechracing.com/portfolio-item/stage-1-rsq/ www.jotechracing.com/portfolio-item/stage-1-vdq50/
@@austinkeho7567 I'd bet Monsoon doesn't even have a valid DL, but that don't keep him from sneakin out Moms Chrysler Pacifica after hours when she forgets to put the keys up. So yea if any1 lookin to run a roll or dig, look out for the minivan with the blue underglow leds at local street races for Monsoon. How's my aim Monsoon? and if you try clapping back with some cap like u daily a gtr or some bs, it better be accompanied by a time stamped post on your YT account driving whatever hoopdy u r struggling to pay off. Until then save the ignorant comments (i.e "Very Unreliable")about a platform you don't have a clue about...lol
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As a multiple-generation Infiniti car owner, I am very happy with the brand's reliability. I have never encountered any issues with the transmissions, engines, or running parts. The drive trains and auxiliary components, such as the air conditioning and starter, have been very dependable. Nissan, as a company, is known for being conservative and has been using their VQ engine line for over a decade. The 3.0t engine is a direct descendant of the GTR and is an excellent engine. Unfortunately, Infiniti needs to do a better job in marketing their cars, and the sophistication of the engine and transmission is often unknown to the public. As a result, many of these cars end up on the second-hand market, where they are bought by less experienced owners who may mistreat them. This leads to examples of what not to do with your car, and creates a myth that Infiniti is not a reliable brand.
I agree with your consensus. My Infiniti which was bought new and maintained by me has been a very good car. One vehicle manufacturer that I would not say good things about is Ford from my experiences and many of the other similar brands. I believe the Japanese make more reliable vehicles than the rest of the countries.
Really good you think to take care of the car for the person after you
I appreciate that sir
Oil is checked on a weekly basis on a 3.0t, along w/ coolant levels. Some great info 🙏
It's not a ton of effort to eyeball, so just makes sense to stay on top of it. Healthy motor then happy life. Easy for time to escape the mind/fast forward and before you know it, the engine is running low on oil. Also, dirty/crusty intake valves just make a vehicle run less efficiently and there is some power loss with also some loss in idle/start/stop smoothness. The first mod I bought for my new Q50S sig edition was the mishi $210.00 OCC then upgraded the tires to Pirelli summer.
Why weekly do they burn oil
@@issavibez394 They don't burn oil if you get a new one and take care of the motor. Same way with many cars. Boosted cars go through more oil because of the added pressure in the cylinders from a turbo/turbos/supercharger. more blowby past the rings and out the crankcase breather. Then you tune these motors with another 7 to 10 psi and you increased the blowby that hopefully gets caught by an oil catch can and some goes out the exhaust ports. Some people's cars are in bad shape from making poor decisions and the turbo oil seals have become damaged and those leak.
Always love your insight. Simple items like a catch can are hella useful. I really am 5w30 gang forever. My VQ has 195k on it and ive never used 0w20. I think it is smart to follow the guide of changing them depending on climate but idgaf im only using 5w30!
Thanks for commenting and positive feedback.
Great video
Great video! I've got a 2017 Q60 and still runs great. The first thing I did was add an oil catch can. Gives me a little peace of mind.
Glad to hear from you! Awesome you have continued to enjoy your Q60. I think a oil catch can is for sure a needed part. If a new car or low miles then people need to get one.
@@GettingthruLife thinking about trading my car for one!! First things I should do is get the catch can and replace filter valves??!!
@@tomasurbina6096 The filtered oil catch, the Mishimoto brand oil can needs to be put on when the car is new because it doesn't take long to build up black burnt oil which turns into the dreaded hard carbon on the intake valve's stem, face and the portion that seals the valve seat. A car with as little as 15,000 miles no OCC the intake valves look bad. Video at 3:18: ruclips.net/video/sZQtfbf_2QE/видео.html
@@tomasurbina6096 If I was buying a preowned 3.0T with 35-55,000 miles I think putting a OCC on is to little too late. Unless you plan on a pro cleaned or you will do the cleaning yourself which can be a very nasty/dirty job. I did this on my 2014 Ford Focus ST by hand with 15K on the clock bought brand new and it was very messy and dirty. Time intensive but worth the result in the end if you then do the measure to prevent future carbon and goo buildup from returning. There are companies that specialize in this but its not cheap. May not be worth the cost in some cases. Best to never let it happen in the 1st place.
New subscriber love the content 😊😊
Thanks for explaining in depth about the catch can and its purpose...Ive always heard about them but never used one b4... I havent ever owned a GDI engine...When I had my 94 probe gt V6 intake manifold off,the valves looked pretty damn clean for 250,000 mi and it was never pulled off before... I cleaned them down to bare metal and the minor deposits were easy to remove
especially after soaking them with intake valve cleaner spray...It was meant for GDI engines but did an easy cleaning job on a port injected intake...Ive seen pics of those direct injected valves b4 and its horrific how bad they can look in short time...I believe even the 370z is also direct injected as well...I wonder would the catch can have any benefit on a port injected engine?
Oil blow-by pretty much happens on all engines but the fuel getting sprayed onto/across the intake valves means the carbon gunk buildup doesn't happen as fast and to the same amount. Oil blowby catch-cans benefit most conventional engines in the long run. High performance motors suffer more because of higher compression numbers, higher rpm, more work output. More oil being leaked past the piston rings. All engines build pressure as they work and use oil for lubrication.
Another issue of oil mist being pumped through motor is also water vapor, unburnt fuel and other contaminants get passed around inside the motor. These things being put into the combustion chamber hinder and down grade the combustion process and quality of the fuel. Contaminates lower the fuel octane plus other things. The quality and purity of fuel matters to a higher performance engine and making power.
I remember back in the 70's and 80's seeing gas stations marketing their fuels as better at keeping your car's valves clean. Most vehicles in the 70s not fuel injected but carbs and in the 80's with fuel injection becoming popular that was portable injection. Those two methods reduced intake valve gunk buildup but clearly it was still an issue.
Key is, get a oil/blowby catchcan that uses a filter media verses a baffled only design. The filtered one will likely catch 40+ percent more vapor blowby ( fuel, condensation, oil, sulfer and other elements.)
Dope thanks man
So, Im a two-time G coupe owner, been looking at the newer year RS models. The thing is, I ragged on my old VQ35 like the Dickens. Traded it at 210K for my G37, which I literally do (barely) any maintenance. I've read horror stories about the turbos just dicking out, even during daily driving. If I were to upgrade, personally I'm gonna stick to a 3.7 Q. Sure it's a bit narrow minded, but they're what I know and I know they're solid.
These are not the best to buy used is now my thought. Too much of a gamble unless you truly know about the car or really close to your local dealership selling one of these. Most used 2016-2021 Q50's are lease dumps, multiple owner and the others are auction cars (not the best place for reliability and quality). Unless buying new or you have a plan to buy a used one and your intentions are to build it up and you have money budgeted for new bigger and better turbos, fuel system and whatever you want to do, then I look elsewhere. I bought mine new and it's been treated well beside the marginal amount of street drag racing stuff. This is a car that wants to be looked after but also just depends on how hard it's being driven. It's not a sports car or a muscle car. 3.7L should do better with the little to no maintenance approach and it doesn't have the added complexity of the turbos, engine knock concern and the supporting electronics for engine/turbo management.
My 18 q60 was lady driven. Dont think the coolant is going anywhere had to put a tad more oil because i have the first gen dipstick,but the pure turbos the heat exchanger doing awesome waiting to get a tune at z1 i hardly drive it,but when i do i granny that thing till i get it tuned. Till then the z pretty much my daily anyway.
Makes sense to drive it softly while running upgraded turbos and no tuning chages . I would assume to run properly and safely at higher rpms the additiinal ecu tuning is necessary. A pretty penny for two new pure turbos, install and a possible rebuilt motor if damage is caused in some area.
Great video. I’ve got a ball in the pit of my stomach after watching your video. I have an ‘18 Q50s. 54k mi and just recently bought an oil catch can. Have yet to install. I’ve known about how important they are for maybe 10k miles or so. I’m pretty concerned about what my valves / intake looks like and how much it impacts the engine.
Nice to hear from you. The good thing is these cars still drive and function with dirty intake valves. It's just with clean, cleaner intake vales, they run better. Every car and situation can be a little bit different. Maybe call around or inquire to Infiniti how much is a intake valve cleaning/walnut blasting job. Call some other places that specialize in the work. Save up some money in the meantime to have it done. Then for sure have a quality designed oil-blowby catch can installed.
All this big picture stuff is based around on how long you plan to keep this car. If you just keep it another 1yr or so, 10,000 miles and then sell, maybe not worth the valve cleaning. Just depends on the person and how they keep their cars. Some people go through life and don't care about many things but you sound like you do care about details.
In this time that we are now financially with our economy and worldly affairs, many of us may have to hang onto our current cars longer. I am in this category now. New car financing, internal combustion and electric vehicles are too expensive compared to 2.5-3 yrs ago. I won't pay $250-350 more a month for a newer, cheaper car or $350-400+ a month more for the same/similar car.
Point is do the best to preserve the car you have and still make it fun and enjoyable to drive.
My 2019 Q50 3.0t car payment was $445 a month when financed new. Now I refinanced almost 1.5 yrs ago and $419.00 a month. I am right side up on ownership by a good amount too, about 9K. To buy a new 48K-53,000 vehicle which they all are now, the monthly payments would be nearly $850+ a month.
Hey love the videos just wanted to know your thoughts on 2018 q60 sport 50k miles thank you
All depends on the true condition of the car. People and shady businesses are masters at finishing over defects, prior damage and neglect. Dealership have people on staff that make bad cars look good but just under that repair they did doesn't hold up long. Many used car are auction cars with zero history. I'd only consider buying from a person you trust or a well respected Infiniti dealership. I probably wouldn't even buy from a Nissan dealership. definitely not from the other dealerships like at a dodge. These cars with the turbos are not heavy duty race/donut cars and many are neglected. Got to find one that's been treated well and likley modded right by a respected tuner from the get go. Redsports tend to life hard lives. Not saying all are ragged out but look really well at the car. I have a video with things to look at closely: ruclips.net/video/bYLeZSPRS-c/видео.html
Absolutely no JB4 crap which is rare because many folks/young adults want more power without paying the price for proper tuning. Avoid these cars with out their catalytic converter and blowoff valves that have been run hard without the proper ecu tuning, (you may not be able to tell). This is a big reason why infiniti 3.0T motors have gotten so many people damaging their cars 2016-2018. This car is all electronics and computer controlled. The newer 2020 to 2024 have more ecu protections to keep people from destroying their engines/turbos as quickly. I feel 2019 and above models the better choice, just my opinion.
Bonnie and Clyde make the best catch can . It picks up oil from passenger side also
Passenger side is a breather and does not put out oil vapor. To buy two catch can system such as Add 1 coat twice as much. I've taken my passenger side AMS intake off down to the turbo inlet and no oil residue. Some people, some systems use a one way check valve but that's not a smart idea.
Unless the B&C oil catch can uses a micron vapor filter then it's not adequate. The term or design of baffle or baffles are not going catch but an estimated 50% vapor/fluid blowby.
Why my mishimoto occ catches what seem like a fair amount of watery, honey goop.
Also, Just to explain...I called Mishimoto 2 years ago and talked to their parts tech support about the 2 catch can system that came out later (Add 1 OCC) costing $400 plus...The Mishimoto company stated that through their research and development testing that they did see any negative amount of oil/vapor blowby coming out of the passenger side CCV (crank case vent). The PCV, driver's side is the side that blows out the contaminants from the crank case that needs to be caught and returned as a part of the emissions system. Mishimoto personnel told me they did not see the need to charge their customers more money for things (hoses, check valve, added catch can housing) that were not necessary.
Hey, I really appreciate the information you give on the Q50. I was wondering what are all the mods you did to it ?
I have kept mine somewhat simple. First I added new tires, Pirelli p-zero and got rid of Dunlop runflat tires. Next, I added the AMS airbox kit with filters because I was soon getting tuned with Ecutek software. Got tuned first at Jotech Motorsports Jan 2020. 434 rwhp (at wheels) and 513 torque according to their calibrated dyno-jet dyno. Approx 500 crank hp and 513 torque which is pretty strong numbers. Almost brand new car, tuned at 3K miles. Then I got a Magnaflow 2.5" x-pipe catback exhaust after seeing how small the factory cbe diameter was after working under the car. I still have my 4 factory catalytic converters because these cars (VR30) needs to run with their catalytic converter unless professionally tuned to run catless. Then I wasn't happy with Jotech Motorsports tuning/support so switched to Racebox tuning July 2020. Now, to add/go full catless/catted downpipes I'd need to retune again ($600) plus the cost of the downpipes ($800-900) and the install $500-600. Likely 2,000 dollars cost. Price not worth to me to gain another 19-20 whp. I'm Running stock fueling components and run 93 octane fuel though I did add a AMS low pressure fuel pump at start of 2022 which I bought 2nd-hand from local (facebook market place) guy who had a Q50 but didn't install it in his car.
I immediately brought a Mishimoto Oil Catch Can after watching this, thanks for the info
Just watch when it catches blowby oil vapor, water vapor and other bad elements and then you know you did something valuable which adds up over time. Otherwise that junk/gunk would cling onto your intake valves and the chambers inside the cylinder head. Also then goes into the combustion chamber and mixes with your fuel and air there by decreasing your octane/fuel quality. Just a good idea on a fuel direct injection motor then on top of that DI engine with turbos or a supercharger which increases engine blowby gases/vapor.
@@GettingthruLife like you had mentioned, I don’t drive my car a lot since I now work from home. But I will definitely monitor it now. My friend who had a Q60 warned me about this because it built up so much junk in his valves that he couldn’t drive it anymore and had to just sell it and take the loss. I just finished installing it, took less than an hour. I do have a heat exchanger and the oil cooler, so just some things to protect my car with the performance mods.
@gerardkronemberg5589 Since i installed mine in just 20k miles, I've kept out approx a quart or more of coffee and cream colored cough syrup from going back into my motor's intake. Mishimoto is the only occ with an actual vapor filter. Any other occ with out a super fine vapor catching filter only stops about 20% of the the blowby gunk.
@GettingthruLife that's awesome. I definitely learned my lesson about paying for cheaper parts. You pay what you get for, lol. Mishimoto is a highly respected brand name, and they deliver on their parts. They had a Labor Day sale, so the occ was like $100 off, and I brought it on Amazon, so I got to me the next day.
I have driven my 2018 Red sport 400 for a few years now and I have a AMS red alpha stage 3 kit that was dyno tuned at AMS and only got 414HP (wheel) and 489 ft lbs of torque so I question your numbers but you have some great information. The only thing I would add is the dipstick recall. I am not sure when that was corrected but my 2018 needed it so confirm that as it is important. The recalled one is too long, giving you an inaccurate reading for your oil level. The new one is shorter allowing more oil to be in the car when it reads full.
Keep up the great work!
A healthy factory redsport pulls close to 390whp. If you only got 414 whp wirh all the bolt-ons stage 3 you have issues or you misread/ misheard the right numbers. My car with 600-700 miles on odomter with just a tune and a lame burger motorsports heat exchanger hit just over 435 whp and 511 torque on a dyno jet. Company tuning it in late 2019 tuneded handfulls of Porsche, record 2000whp-2500 whp GTR's, 1200hp audi R8s, all the McLarens and Lamborghini track cars. Then I got returned after getting a x-pipe, dual cbe at Racebox so likely over 450-55 whp end of 2020. 450whp is pretty whimpy when compared to most vr30s these days with fuel mods, ethanol tuning and now with bigger turbos or the improved efficiency turbos that were the rage.
Almost every vr30 coming out of AMS minimal 430-440whp and many with e-fuel tunes 500-520 whp.
(My car at 500 crank hp when take away 13% for driveline loss that ballparks to the 435 whp. (The industry standad states driveline loss at 17%.) A Dodge 392 scat pack at 485 crank hp makes approx 422whp for comparison.
Appreciate all the input but numbers are very subjective. I can only run 91 Octane so I'm sure that is a big factor. I can only share my actual numbers.
I was told I would be around 500 if I added the fuel upgrade and move to e85 but I won't likely do that and enjoy the car as it sits.
Here is a link for anyone interested in my project
ruclips.net/video/CnmWNmILnF4/видео.html
@@kevinbentley3923I've seen likely a few hundred dyno results from 2016-2022 VR30's and 433ish to 450whp is the most common result. With E-30 tunes and support mods VR30's seeing 470-480+ whp. I had a friend with 2018 Redsport LPFP, catless lower downpipes, tuned by Z1 E-30, ams airboxs, fresh turbos, CBE...and he 2 was at 470+whp. That's around 540 +/- crank hp.
E-70-80 tune would be close to 600+ whp. With Z1 turbo upgrade I think I recall 690-700+whp.
I'm out of the game now and don't follow Q50-60 racing, news and the forums. I still own my car but just drive it and rarely floor it or even spin the tires. Wish I could take out my Z1 rear subframe bushing collars and revert back to factory for comfort now.
@@GettingthruLife, thanks for your input. I am in a rare situation whereas I dont really chase numbers. My modifications are just to get what I can out of the car without losing reliabity but I was never worried about numbers. All I can do I report my actual numbers. My car is almost exclusively AMS parts (have a complete stage 3 Red Alpha package) and tuned on their dyno in IL. The dyno sheet is is the link in the above post. I wish I could add more but appreciate hearing what others are getting. In most cases, you get feedback from people that have not actually dyno'd their cars so I was sharing what my actual numbers were.
@@kevinbentley3923400 to 440whp is more than enough for the street plus the high torque which is the highlight to me. I'm more of a torque person 0-30, 0-60mph. I don't drive fast anymore, to much risk and danger as Texas cities population explode. Have a good day.
I’d say for people who drive more then you should check the oil more then once a month but you make some good content been watching your videos for a while
yea checking stuff/fluids is simple and will or could save big headaches if you catch something early. These cars in good condition don't burn excessive oil but if you get to the point you developed a porous block then coolant disappearing in a short period of time is a good indication to document with Infiniti or if no warranty start planning to resolve.
Currently have a 2013 Audi S5. Thinking of selling and getting a Q60RS… still on the fence though.
Q60 are more rare to be seen. Q50's more common and cheaper. Just find a Q that's been looked after and not an auction car or salvaged title.
I would not make that trade on any levels unless it is a q60 or look for an older Q70 I wouldn’t touch an infinite with a 3.0 2.0 in it a waste of car when u could get something more faster and fun ifs it’s not a 3.5 or 3.7 or a older m45 or m37 m56 stay away
She's an 18 q60. No some just on cold start,but it's it's guess work here on temp ,but slight to no no moke on cold start. Intercooler reservoir spot in the radiator about a cup and a half low . It was cold no overheating or anything. Im sure the car would let me know if something is wrong . I love the throttle and steering on my 04 z touring. It's more raw. Only flaw with that. You feel everything in the road .
Your a 100 percent correct not to dump that back in
You still have to get it walnut blasted even if you have a catch can, but it does help a lot, you have borescope your car every 50k to see if it starts to build up.
Most of the catch cans out like the infamous Add1 brand catch only capture about 40-50% blowby because they aren't filtered. Mishimoto has the only CC im aware of with an actual .50 micron filter setup for VR30 bolt-on. This style CC catches likely 90+% blowby that would normally be recycled into the intake ports. Mishimoto tested this stuff when developing their OCC. I've had detailed discussions with their R&D department while doing much research on the topic years ago.
I wish I did have a borescope with light to look and document. They are not terribly expensive since these days they hook up to and use phone screen and app. I've considered buying and investing a chunk of my time into looking into my intake ports which would help document and valudate to many with evidence but I don't make enough payback on videos to make everything I want to do worth it. Takes more effort to make videos and put them up on YT than many think or consider. Maybe one day I will have the overpowering urge to do it.
If you have video links to people who have done, I'd like to see the links. ( Ihave to searched out the topic recently) Would be extra cool to see someone with the actual mishimoto occ inspect their intake ports and have on video the results with factual accurate results. I put mine on when my car had approx 400 miles from being new. A key ingredient to account for.
Thanks for all the info man. I just bought my 19 q60 with 12k miles, it’s not too late to get a OCC right?
I put put one on pronto. One with a filter that catches oil mist and vapor. Baffle/s on go about 50% of the way.
Also, Just my opinion and not substanciated fact but I have my suspicion that the lighter weight oil 0w-20 will allow a slight better 0-60mph/60 foot compared to 5w-30 oil. Double edged sword here because thinner oil protects less under high heat and hard driving versus the the 10 extra weight oil rating when warm. Good thing about the 0w rating is in cold weather means the oil will flow easier/quicker when really cold like on a 10-20 degree moring. Quicker flowing oil means the oil flows quicker and get to critical engine parts faster to provide lubercation. Why if you live in a cold climate the recommendation in 0w-20. This car is built wit the oil in mind due to the tollerances engeneried into this motor build. 5w-30 isn't a big vicosity difference from the 0w-20 cold/hot so its fine to use as well but more for warmer climate use. I wish I had the dragy data to show but to do so would require a same day oil change between oil weights and running the car at very similar temps on the same road surface where I have not done this. But I bet I could get data that might show a .05 to .10 improment in 0-60mph because less drag on the rotating engine parts but still allowing a ultra thin layer of oil per the small tollerances this motor has. If someone really pound on their car often and they live in 70-90+ temps close to all year around then 5w-30 would be the oil choice I'd pic due to less oil thinning due to increased heat.
@GettingthruLife hey I wanna say thanks for all the content you put out boss, ive been looking into q50s and q60s recently, and youre videos and knowledge is really helpful. I would also greatly appreciate if you could get in contact to give me some pointers and advice for buying a preowned one 👍
Pointers [bring a flashlight]: 1. check oil level on dip stick (a little higher then middle of the full/low level), 2. look at oil color (light brown/dark brown/black/dark black), 3. look/verify coolant levels on the reservoir tanks HX/radiator with in correct level, look at tire wear: inside tire tread/middle/outside tread, 4. look closely at bottom of the vehicle with flashlight to look for road damage/large scrapes/missing panels/oil spots/rust (where there is residue usually mean a leak or a tear, 5. inspect/pull on serpentine belts, look for cracks/brittleness, missing ribs, listen for squeaks or slipping, 6. look inside around carpet: feel for any moisture/look for discoloration/mildew smell/signs the carpet has been pulled up...indication of flood/water damage, 7. look for signs of water leaks around sunroof: Ive never had a problem with mine but some buying used have seen a leak prob, 8. look at the front spoiler and look up underneath: if beat up and scratch up likely means the preson driving the car was a dumbass or just didn't care, 9. look for excessive rock chips/dings on front of car and possible windshield small/med/large, 10. Road rash on wheels could mean alignment issues, 11. look at inside of body panels for repaint lines, 12. look at brake rotors and look at wear on the rotors: if really warn might need new rotor or tuned up rotors, 13, look under the motor area for oil residue/coolant residue, 13. touch everything in the car to makesure they work/run air con/run heat/move seats/check windows, 14. look at the driver's instrument cluster: is is stratched up or if someone cleaned it did they spend time to use a clean microfiber cloth?, 15. start the car and idle/walk around and listen for odd sounds that might sound different or not right, 16. if you can check the airfilters: means removing the front top cover with those push pin style fastners maybe 10-12 of them, 17, If you can and likely a very good think to do...have infiniti pull up the vin number and run a check on it, I'd even consider have a inifniti look over the vehicle too. Next best thing to buy new is buying from a good/high quality/long standing/reputable Infiniti dealership and consider certified pre-owned with infiniti's actual extended pre-owned warranty. Maybe I will make a video on this and highlight what Ive mentioned here. Best advice is buy the 3.0t turbo cars new but I know not always what people want to spend. We have been living in shady times for a long time now and this include the used car industry. Auction cars bad/to many unknowns. 80% of used car likely to have been an auction car and moved around the country. Also remeber like in the last 7 years there have been more floods and hurricanes than in last 40 years and Ive seen reports of a million cars in last 5-6 years have been damaged by flood water and sea water. Means a car with low miles and low wear on outside can be bought much cheaper and then made to look nearly new and then sold at a big profit but the buyer is usually plagued with issues and electrical problems which can be tough to ever fix right. Carfax and others don't count on them to tell you the whole story.
Hey I didn't get the chance to properly thank you but I really want to give my thanks for not just your wisdom but the time you took to respond back and give me a large amount of feedback, I'm checking out a couple of them pre-owned and you've been a big help to me so again big thanks you have my gratitude boss.
Great advise, thank you! I will be investing in a catch can. 30k on a 2019 Q50 under normal driving conditions, hopefully it's not too late for the catch can. Excellent video. What's your opinion on when to change the transmission and differential fluid on these cars? Thanks!
The oil catch can is a must have for a new D.I. engine but even more important for performance driven D.I. engines since piston ring blow-by is increased and more the engines tend to have increased airflow. Adding a blow-by oil/contaminates catch-can to a vehicle with over 20K miles on its odometer won't be as beneficial as adding to a new car because carbon buildup on the intake valves will have already happened. Depending on the motor/manufacturer the level of buildup will vary but it happens fairly quickly. The best situation is again buy OCC when motor is new/close to new but adding one later will still have and provide benefits by not allowing the buildup to become even more of a hindrance. Plus, the blow-by produced by I.C.E engines do decrease octane/fuel quality as the emissions system diverts the blow-by from the block back into the combustion chamber thru the intake valves and intake chamber. Definitely considering getting a "catch can" with a interanl filter element and not just a so-called baffle design.
If good OCC's were less money it would really be a no-brainer to get one at any amount of milage but since these are now $230-240.00, it does make one consider the price verse the benefits. If you do buy a OCC, oil catch can, I'd go with Mishimoto because theirs has both a baffle plate and a 50 micron filter setup. Vapor filters catches way more contaminates and oil vapor because when a motor is runing and get hot, the oil turns into a mist from the moving parts and other contaminates become liquid vapor.
For fluid changes like trans and diff I'm counting on when I get closer to 35-40K I will do a trans fluid refresh and rwd diff oil replace. Motor oil at 5-7K miles depending on how hard the car is driven and the heat conditions you live in for summer.
You can pull your auto trans dipstick and check fluid color on a white surface. Light pink: coolant mixed with fluid/replace, Red transparent: New or like new/no action required, Light brown: good condition/no action, Dark brown fluid but still slight red: old/ needs replace or flush, Very dark brown or black: definitely replace immediately
@@GettingthruLife Good to know. Thanks for all the info!
@@GettingthruLife there is no dipstick
some good info here thnx. Do you know which AFTER MARKET differential bushing will fit a 2009 fx35 rwd suv?
I am not educated on the older model infinitis. The FX35 was an awesome vehicle in that time and still see a fair amount of them in very good condition. I remember them well. The V8 was cool but maybe that was called the FX45.
So the heat exchanger & radiator tank uses the same coolant ? New to this car lol 😅 tryna make sure whenever I need to refill
Yes, same coolant used in both. I'd stick to the official nissan blue coolant too unless out of warranty. Can buy on amazon or other retailers.
Thanks for all your info. I think my valves may be covered in oil. My gas mileage is very poor and I see oil sweat around my plum. Is there a way to clean the valves and get a catch can or is it too late ?
After just 15K mileage with no OCC "oil catch can" the intake valves will have a fair amount of carbonized built up of hard, oil which looks like a black cancer in human lungs on them. At this point it just goes down hill from there. There are places that specialize in Intake valve cleanings because it's a monster problem with many many cars/manufacturers that are direct Injection only engines. There are makes and models of cars that have it way worse than the infiniti 3.0T motor. There are do it yourself methods with canned intake valve spray solvents but nothing will be as good as a professional walnut blast process or doing it by hand with harsh solvents and various brushes takes hours if not 2 days. Search RUclips "clean your intake valves" and there will be many how to videos.
ruclips.net/video/nC33deag8s4/видео.html
@@GettingthruLife thank you so much
@@paytawn4005I'm always around to try to be helpful and be as accurate as I can be.
Hey boss, what are your thoughts on blow off valves on this car? I’ve heard they are recommended because of the back pressure that stays in the system keeping the turbos spooling much higher and also prematurely blowing them out but I’ve heard mixed things. Let me know what you think thanks!
Absolutely false info. Infiniti when building this engine knew exactly what they were doing. The people saying so are ignorant. This isnt a 1980-1990's turbo manual trans car.
This car is fully electronic ecu controls everything just as it should. In short this car has fully electronic waste gates that blow off boost and adjust the compressor wheel speed. Also, the twin throttle bodies never fully close/snap shut so boost doesn't get backed up when the throttle body valve closes like on a manual transmission car. *plus if you add them and you are not tuned specifically for them, you are creating problems for the motor. i.e. the motor thinks its doing one thing but the blowoff valves are throwing off the air/fuel ratio. Mess with the A/F ratio constantly makes the car run poorly, can cause issues, and cause poor fuel economy. Infiniti designed this car to run perfectly from the factory. Even the Red Sport with elevated boost level doesn't need BOF's to run safely and correctly.
If you just have to hear that blowoff sound then you need to get professionally tuned and then that person can tune the ecu to compensate/adjust for the addition of BOV's. Otherwise no gain in performance either way. BOV's without a tune hurt the motor's performance and can cause issue long term use. Also the same with removing the catlytic converters. All emissions parts are working directly with the ECU. you remove any of them and the car will not perform right unless tuner tell the car what to change and how.
@@GettingthruLife thank you. I was just wondering because people were saying on forums that the OEM ones were too small but I’m not a professional and there was a lot of mixed reviews about it. Only reason I have it was because I thought it would help the life of the turbo
@spleafplayzyt8078 This motor has no blowoff valves from the factory. Blowoff valves are old school spring activated from a vaccum or pressure. These VR30 engines are pretty much all electronic controlled and monitored.
Listening to most on the forums will lead you down a hole. I stopped visiting the forums years ago. Sometimes some entertainment and some knowledge but use discretion.
There's a primary reason why thses cars seem to have weak motors and turbo failures often. It's usually the owners fault and or past owners.
With cars today, last 5-6 years, altering how the motors operate often requires ecu tuning or adjustments to see benefits or even run right.
Thank you I appreciate it!
2016 Q50RS 54k non tuned. Did rear differential seals for $900 this year. Also did the transmission valve body for $3000 this month 😮. Hearing about turbo failure and porous block issues has me thinking about selling it! That or buying an extended warranty. Thoughts?
If you don't have leaking of coolant fluid HX-radiator by now I would think you are safe from the porous block issue. Turbo seals wear out over time and as long as you're changing the oil at about 5K instead of 11K the turbos should being lubricated and less likely to to have internal probs. If you can get what you need or want out of your car then it could always be a consideration to sell and then buy another average car with a more simple engine but then again a lot of other used cars can have breakdowns or expensive repairs right around the corner too. Climate has a lot to do with things wearing out quicker. Really dry climates can be extra hard on parts. Really hot climates, really cold climates, really wet climates can cause seals to crack, belts to wear faster, hoses to wear out, cause rust. As long as you like, know your car/vehicle you should be able to kind of gauge where it's at. If you have a strong feeling things are on their way out, then might be the opportunity to sell.
One reason I am hesitant to buy used, like buy a 7-8 year old small truck because right when I do, I will likely be the one to experience transmission replace/repair or some other $3000 to 5000 repair which kills the point/value of buying used to try and save money.
@@GettingthruLife Thanks for the response! To be fair I always thought my car was pretty bullet proof until the transmission valve body required replacement. That was the most expensive repair I experienced in my adult life so it freaked me out. I’ve owned it since Jan 2020 and I baby it. Less than 8.5k miles annually. I do oil changes every 5k like you suggested above. I never agreed with Infiniti’s suggestion of 10k.
Silly question, but how would I know if coolant is leaking? I park in my garage. Would there be visible fluid on the floor? I looked at the coolant tank while the engine was hot, and it seems to be sitting right at low. I would imagine the Infiniti techs look at it during their multi point inspection but to my knowledge they never topped it off in the four years they’ve completed my normal maintenance. Car has never run hot once to date (knock on wood).
@phil_8367 if there is a porous block condition then the coolant just disappears from the coolant tanks. It slowly leaks into the engine and get burnt up in the exhaust. A sign as far as I've seen is at your exhaust you will see what looks like smoke and a different smell. Coolant when it dries leaves a white chalking reside. You can look for that around the engine area. Note sometimes I see a little residue around my plastic intake cover. The tanks vent at different times depending on temp conditions. Your resistor tank levels will fluctuate up and down but coolant should disappear. Over time some coolant will/can dissipate but it a small amount. Every few month a just eyeball my coolant reservoir tanks.
I have not had these things happen so I'm not an expert or can't speak from experience.
That part you had fail that was expensive, i'm not really sure what happened to cause that to fail. I would have had to ask the tech/repair person a lot of questions because I don't hear many instances where people report that as service/replacement part/work they needed.
I would have asked is this transmission valve body part that failed is it around this mileage point? What causes this part to fail? I don't not why that part would fail and I don't know much about it in general.
Hey quick question if I wanna fill up on my coolant what should I buy? And do I just simply add it in there?
I have 2014 q50s with 105k on the odom. Car has been running fine but I've been lacking on regular service. I live in So Cal. Looking to get the 105k service maintenance done but my local Infin dealer/service shop wants about $500 in labor and $200 in parts just for the Spark plug replacements. I cant do it myself. That price seem about right?
I have not researched the spark plug replacement, but I think I've seen that one or two are very difficult to get to on the 3.0t engine. Maybe easier on the 3.7 model. 100% youtube search a couple videos on spark plug replacement. Doing stuff at the dealership is always more expensive, but for many, it's a convince thing. Plus having service work done at the manufacturer provides piece of mind and the work is pinned to the car through the VIN number for future records.
Also, I've noticed pretty much all dealerships charge a bogus waste/disposal fee $50 -75 even if they don't need to replace fluids. My car I like to do the basic stuff myself but if you can't then just depends on your ability to source out the work.
I just got a 2020 Q50s 40k miles and don't plan on modding it (debatable, maybe later) do you still recommend the oil catch can!?
Honestly, in my opinion, unless you buy a brand new car or one with very low miles, 3-5K I'd say not worth buying $250.00 OCC. It doesn't take long, many miles for the intake valves on D.I. engines and then boosted D.I. engines to start collecting oil/dried oil "carbon" buildup. I was doing turbo pipe upgrade on my 2014 D.I. (direct injection only) Ford Focus ST turbo car and just because i was taking things off I went another couple steps to pull off the intake plenum t see the intake poarts and valves. I the car new and at 15K miles the intake valve goo and carbon buildup blew my mind. I was sort of angry to say the least. Made me sick to see my low mileage car with the charbroiled oil, crusty carbon buildup and filthy goo. I cleaned them myself, over 3 days with soaking time, and I bought gun barrel brass bore brushes and chemicals that softened up the hard buildup and scrubbed for hours and use my shop vac to pull out the junk. Got them pretty clean, not perfect but pretty good, way better. I immediately bought a Diamond Motorsports brand OCC that was a kit for the Focus ST at that time.
Why I told you the story is unless you are getting your intake valve professionally cleaned then they are already coated. The effects of the valves building up carbon won't be felt over a week or a month but over time the air flowing into the intake ports, down the valve stems, past the valve face/valve seat, that smooth flow process gets interrupted or restricted. Just think about how this works when the opening and closing process happens over 45,000 times on a 30 minute drive. Most of the time you won't notice much because the carbon buildup is done over extensive time if you started with a new car. Point is drive the car with 40k miles like it is unless you just want things to always run as good as they can. Some people don't care much. (google: If the engine is running at 4,000 RPM, the valves are opening and closing 2,000 times every minute, or 33 times every second.)
Vehicles at different stages of intake valve buildup usually drive fine until they don't. Starts with running not as smooth, rough idle, starts a little rougher. MPG can drop but if you invested in a good, trusted shop to clean them, I bet you'd notice a difference and if you dataloged and GPS dragy timed your car you would see a jump in performance and fuel economy returned. It all just depends on what kind of person you are.
I think it depends on how long you plan to keep your Q50 3.0T. Most people have these cars a couple years and lose interest/buy something different so again maybe not worth the OCC investment unless you are meticulous about your vehicles and plan on keeping for long time. If you don't keep long then the next person and so on will pay more of the penalty.
just curious what you paid for yours. I'm looking at one right now with 62k miles for 25k. Is that in line with what you paid?
@@JimmyMarrowI paid that much but it was about 40k miles, it was a good deal imo tho, so maybe for 60k I'd guess it should be lower 20's for price
I really appreciate your videos. I just bought a 2019 infiniti Q50S signature like yours except its AWD with low milleage. Can you give more information about the Mishimoto oil cath can and how to install it. I am planning purchasing one. Thank you again sir.
How many miles are on the car now?
The reason I ask mileage is a Q50/60 3.0t with 20k miles on it already with no oil blowby catch can already have pretty crusty intake valves. Adding a $230.00 oil catch can then isn't as effective afterwards. It's still not a bad idea to stop additional layers of oil/carbon buildup but best to avoid all/most of the buildup from the getgo. Watch videos of the people who use the product Seafoam to attempt to clean their intake valves more affordable. There are some other products as well. Once you have them clean or attemp your best to get them cleaner, then you add the misihimoto oil catch can. The best way to clean is have it done professionally but is pretty expensive, walnut blasting.
If low miles on your car then definitely get the misihimoto occ. You go to their website, look for online with 10% discount options if available, and buy directly from them or like Summit racing or similar.
I have a video where I install mine. Some say it was tricky for them to connect one of the hoses which takes patience and a level head but can be done with some fanegalling and some cuss words.
Install video: ruclips.net/video/3XTVr5ooVpQ/видео.html
@@GettingthruLife 31000 miles. The car runs so nice. I want to minimise the accumulation of carbon on the valves. I live in Canada so i need to check if they are shipping to Canada. By the way, with good winter tires, the awd is a beast in the snow, so well balanced. Thanks
@@danielc1334 AWD is nice for sure. If I could do it again and buy new and awd than a no brainer. These cars now are way more money new, leases are hundreds of more dollars and financing cars are hundreds more dollars since the covid economy. 2019 I made out like a bandit on my car payment. I get offers to buy mine all the time for a brand new one until I see the lease/finance/interest rate price.
I bought a 16 Q50s with the dreaded wastegate rattle. With only 60k on the clock, Infiniti replaced my motor with a new one. Coming from a 13 BMW 335xi,, catch cans I knew to be important on any direct injection motor. And I will say that any catch can is better than none. I did the ADD1 that does come with the baffle minus the big name brand price. It has worked great. I empty mine every 3000 miles and it catches a bunch of crap I don't want my motor eating.
Thanks for chiming in, cool you joined the VR30 family. Agreed, a crankcase, blowby catch can is better no OCC. A baffle design alone, a plate with holes added into it does collect some of the condensed ultta small vapors but just not as well as a dedicated micron filter which seems to only be offered by Mishimoto. Add 1 OCC aren't cheap as when all squad and done close to $200 per single catch can.
Anyways, enjoy your ride and new motor. Treat it well and it should be reliable and produce pretty decent power at close to 290-300whp ... 320 with cbe.
yo same but i got mine with 71k miles. What warranty did you have to have them do it for free?
Guys I had the same issue of loosing coolant level and I thought I had a defect on my block or turbo, but guess what I’ve changed all the radiator caps on my car and suddenly it stopped loosing coolant, so I assume the issue was from the caps, because the car produces a lot of heat so the caps need to be changed every 2 years I would say, and change the coolant water as well every 2 years trust me you will see a lot of improvement in decreased heat soaking. Now this worked for me I don’t know if it will work for everyone, but I just wanted to share it. And also consider changing the thermostat every 3-5 years as well. yeah because the
caps where letting the vapor escape (not
holding the pressure in the system) so leading
to reducing the reservoir levels so fast,
especially with the vr30 which produce a lot of
heat. Just consider this solution first, as I
might believe that some radiator and reservoir
caps may be defected from the factory, but no
one consider it as a probable cause as the car
is new, so they go for more bigger issues, like
blocks issue or turbosleak.
POROUS BLOCK.
Cheers
Interesting report. Did you notice a fair amount of coolant residue in the area? Or did it just evaporate to the best of your knowledge with no white residue?
Something I also recommend is a oil cooler.
The coolant helps heat up the oil, but because of that the coolant temps being high also makes the oil temps high. If they get too high the detergents and lubricant properties can break down and not lubricate anymore. I recommend the Z1 oil cooler. Might also want a AMS heat exchanger.
Glad to see you did a catchcan.
Out of the almost 3 years of data logging my car and watching/ reading oil temps, my personal car's O.T. has never been seen to go above 200 degrees. I'm a little surprised, but most the time it almost never goes above 195 even hot, hot summer time.
Even when doing multiple wide open + 0-130 runs and 8-9 flat-out 0-65mph Dragy runs. Which is the most taxing thing I would do.
Maybe if I were to do competition road course style raceing or tow 1k - 1,500+ lb trailer, it might become worth for me but depends on what people are doing.
Adding additional oil cooling capacity would be good for people who see 220 --225+ degree oil temos on a more general basis. Yes I agree, high oil temps will speed up breakdown of lubrication both motor, transmission and torque converter.
Getting a 2016 used q50 tomorrow 😬I love the look but heard some reliability issues so im a little scared ngl
There are possible turbo failures, porous blocks, worn main serpentine belt. Good to buy from a reputable seller that will shoot you straight. Do a lot of looking into the car so you don't buy a shinny outside but poopoo/clapped out internals. I made a video of somethings to look at before you buy 3.0T. ruclips.net/video/bYLeZSPRS-c/видео.htmlsi=VDfvsBjgAxf0ujE-
Thanks for the great info. I don't know a lot about the turbo set ups but I've owned a few non turbo Nissan Infiniti vehicles. Why is a catch can not installed during the manufacturing process? Was curious because many others have suggested adding oil catch cans aftermarket as well.
My guess is that most of the vehicle owners in the world/US don't care to open their vehicle's hood and have change and maintain things. Putting on a extra device that requires emptying every few months is a added liability. If an oil catch can is used while full, will cause a backup and potentially other probs or warning lights.
Hii! ... Talking about wash the engine bay .. could you tell me if i have to cover something? I mean .. ecm , modules , etc ??
Nothing needs to be covered but generally not a good idea to spray high-pressure water at electrical areas. In my opinion, best to spray the under the hood area with a product like Simple Green. Let it sit for 4-5 min and rinse with a garden hose. Use regular water hose pressure with your finger at the end to fan out the water stream. I feel also ok to use a power washer at the public car washes but they have the engine/wheel spray setting with reduced output and a decreased. Example video: ruclips.net/video/sfMeMKoCPJE/видео.html.
Also check this video out: ruclips.net/video/te7HRwW2ht8/видео.html
Q50 3.7 or 3.0T are still car engines compared to any other so general rules apply to all for washing.
Thank you so much
I'm calmer with your advice.
I appreciate it.
I will do that.. I need wash as a soon posible, it's so dirty
I got a lease, brand new 23 luxe is the OCC easy install ? Should I do it on the lease ? It sounds like it’s definitely worth it but for warranty and lease purposes I wanna know if it’s easy to uninstall before I take it in for maintenance
In the long run haul of the car the OCC is a sure thing but since it's a lease and most use it and turn it in after 32-35K then the benefits really come in to play for the next guy or gal. There are benefits when new up to 30k but most of the carbon on the intake valves starts to show buildup as soon as after 15K though my brand new Ford Focus ST-3 trubo had a scary amount after 12K. With the intake valve's shaped is altered from the carbon buildup and gunk covering the intake valves intake chamber less smooth airflow is going to happen, roughing running, decreased fuel economy, startup another revolution or 2, decreased performance though small differences add up over time and long term down the road.
Up to you. One of the main reasons buying turnaround leases can be a compromise because the owners put things off because of a lease. No long term worries or commitment for them. Some might say use/d and abuse/d. Not always the case but with lease trade ins but a higher percentage.
Congratulations on the lease and new car. When they are new and you do everything you can to keep in running new and looking new, it's a good feeling. Still a fine looking car even after 10 years and I still enjoy my sport styled interior with sunroof, 360 camera/front/rear, electric seats with leg support, semi-soft touch surfaces and the layout.
@@GettingthruLife appreciate that brother keep going with the insights man you do a really good job I guess the only other thing I’m looking at then is what oil to run I live in south FL so it’s HOT all the time so I’ve been thinking of 5w-30 bc of the heat out here
@Lisander jimenez yes go 5w-30. Not really any need to spend more because 0w-30 is a thing but not easy to find, likely have to buy online. Also just buy the Valvoline, Castrol, shell Rotella, Quaker State $22-25 jug and one bottle of same oil because need about 5 1/2 quarts oil with filter change. I like the basic wix filter from auto parts store. Just change oil 5-6k miles so don't need boutique $$ oil brands.
I’m curious how are you getting over 500HP with just exhaust system intake and this pcv oil catch can. Even if it’s red sport it sounds impossible but again I have not been mechanic over 25 years..
It's a ecu tuned vehicle. When tuned by a good ecutek tuner a basic 3.0T can be near 500hp and near 500tq. That equates to 430ish whp. With a 19psi 93 octane tune, airbox/filter, Catback exhaust close to 445-450whp. Over 510-515 crank hp.
Thank you for the video. I am looking at a used 2020 Q50 Red Sport with 38k miles, but I'm now skeptical about it after seeing so many people have tranmission issues. Any tips on purchasing a used q50rs? Would you recommended? Or is it almost imminent to have issues down the road? T.I.A.
I've never heard the transmissions in these cars as being a part that breaks. Non owners of these cars just bag on it because its not a dual clutch. Its a stall converter which is good in its own right. The infiniti trans are known to hold up to 600whp from the factory. Turbo wear and tear is more likely a weak point but covered under the 6yr or 70k mile warranty. I just recently made a video on what I'd look for when picking out a used Infiniti V6 twin turbo car.
ruclips.net/video/bYLeZSPRS-c/видео.htmlsi=CE6jPNjoB7dV40TN
transmissions are garbage trust me i been there before had to replace my redsport transmission twice in less than 3 month and the car was stock i trade it in for a g70 then i trade in the g70 for an m340i
@b58forever Just another prime example of "this transmission is junk" garbage with no documented background info.. (its a random post so i get it)
You had problems sucks and not discounting your situation. Did you buy your Q50 new, 2nd hand, third hand? Did it come from a random auction or non specific car lot? Did you buy from an Infiniti dealership? Where did it come from when you bought it used? What was the complete history on the car? Did you know the history/service history on your car? Was it a crashed or flooded car? So many unknowns and likely the same case when you bought the car. That's what you get when you buy a used car. Sometimes good and more often bad.
The real situation here is likely your Q50 trans was bad, abused, improperly used and damaged, maybe before you got it. People's bought new transmissions and driven on in normal conditions don't just fail unless bad things are/were done to them.
Your transmission was garbage doesn't translate to "all" Q50-60 transmissions are "garbage" or "junk".
Unless you bought it new, you likely bought someone else's mistake or a shotty secondhandshort buget repair or the typical bought a 2nd hand trans from junkyard or craigslist.
A properly used and maintained Jatco 7 speed torque converter transmission is stout and robust when good working order. 25+ people just in 2023-24 online are putting 650-700whp through their oem 3.0t transmissions.
@@GettingthruLife ok i can speak on my own experince the q50 was a 2016 redsport stock and i know lot of people having issues with this transmission i replace the transmission twice. the issue with this transmission is the valve body once the valve body fails you need to replace the whole unit cause the parts get damage once the valve body fail. yes maybe the transmission can hold 600 whp but it have a dafective part the valve body some people are lucky necer have the issue but for most will have issue
Hello, How are you? I live in South Florida and I have a VR30 3.0t with 24k miles. What brand of oil do you use or recommend? the last use quaker state ultimate durability 0w20 ?
Hello, I'm not an oil snob but I also don't run inferior oil. For most of my oil changes I use Quaker state green bottle full synthetic either 0w-20 colder months or 5w-30 for the warmer months. If and when quaker state makes a 0w-30 then I'd switch to that.
In extensive oil testing I've read, the ultimate durability Quaker State did very well for a turbo-charged modern motor. I also change my oil often, 4,000 to 5,000 miles so it's always fresh and clean. Most the top brands work and perform great so spending a lot more money for something like oil is overkill in my opinion especially if you stay on top of changing it. I use a Wix basic or medium grade filter too.
@@GettingthruLife Thanks, I'm also planning to buy an exhaust like yours👌🏼
If I purchase a non CPO car that still has some manufacturer warranty left on it, can I, as the new owner, extend the manufacture warranty or add protection to the vehicle through Infiniti? or is that only available for first owners or CPO only cars? I really want a Q60 but after doing some searching and finding all of this information regarding turbo failure and pours blocks, I’ve gotten cold feet and want protection. The problem is all of the CPO cars I can find are bland spec and not what I want.
I am no expert but you should be able to purchase a warranty if bought at an Infiniti dealership. You want Infiniti specific backed warranty not a third party warranty as I've heard some people get. Always best to contact Infiniti to verify /discuss extended warranty plans 866-224-9827.
I recommend to ask your dealer about the CPO or some kind of extended protection plan. I believe as long as if you are within that manufacturer's warranty, you should be able to extend your protection. It's also better to get an extended protection plan that is backed by the manufacturer, not some kind of third party provider (yes, maybe third party provider is cheaper, however when it comes to making the claims, they may be more harsh and reluctant on approving the claims). If you go with a manufacture extended protection plan, as long as if you keep your maintenance record with a dealer (oil changes), then your claims should be smooth sailing. Also, when you do claims, you will be dealing with the manufacture and not a random third party company. But again, I recommend asking your dealer, typically the Finance Manger should be able to help with this.
CPO is a joke. Don't drink the koolaid.
Are there TSB’s on the heat exchanger and overflow on radiator for those years
I don't recall. I don't think so back then. That could have changed now in 2023-2024. My car did go in for semi-major service 5-6 months ago so the dealer would have likely addressed all updates and or issues. I've never had heat exchanger issues.
Wow, 6500 miles a year. That car does a lot of sitting. I hav a '21 RS and i love it. And my car sits a lot to. Yeah, i gotta get a catch can. But i always check fluids, Rotate tires and other work i do myself. Tell u one thing its better than any German car - lol...
I have a motorcycle I ride as often as I can plus I have a Sur Ron X e-bike I rode during the last half of the pandemic almost everywhere I could because very fun too. When I can, I let my car sit n the garage. Especially when super 93 fuel was $5 plus a gallon. People in the democrat run states I know paid way more than $5 and that's awful. The first year of ownership (middle of 2019 to April/May 2020)I drove more.
hi new sub here on the channel thanks so much for all the info i wanna do a few things with my 2016 q50 3.0t i guess i will start with the heat exchanger :) and by the way my q50 is 90 k milleage and is firm as a rock not complains heheh always put 93 gas and sintetic oil :)
I have a fair amount of past 3.0T/Q50 content which people can find interesting. I still have my car, coming up on 4 years but at the current time I'm not really adding more parts as my income has not fully returned since the pandemic. You could do different levels of tunes now as more options are available like "more basic "off the shelf" lower hp tunes which are more standardized and dont cost as much. I'm still not a fan of blowoff valves just for sound effect and JB4 boost controllers. Z1 Motorsports seems to be the Q50-60 3.0T go to company these days for new parts with their HX brand, ecu tuning, brakes, inatke kit, exhaust and accessories. What I've come to accept with my car is it can be a great and fun car but more emphasis is placed on comfort, softer-everyday ride quality and clean body lines. and comfy interior. It's not a all-out purist sports car so its not the best as far as pushing its limits trying to make it something it's not , but does what it does pretty well.
@@GettingthruLife sure ! that’s true 100% agree thanks for the answer 🫶🏻bless
Z1 Motorsports $349 solution simple gain/uptick in boost for more power 3.0T www.z1motorsports.com/engine-management/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-hotbox-performance-tuner-p-40680.html?list_name=NestedCategoryEngineManagement&oid=40680%3A0%3A397%3A15&qid=3ce56592b0e38370a6a5840c852d91d8
Looking to get a 2017 Q60 with 77,000 miles. Clean title. What’s the first thing that needs to be done incase I do purchase the car?
ask for service records, check with infiniti and run VIN to see any history, check oil level, look at oil condition, look at radiator coolant level, look at heat exchanger coolant level (between full and low mark), Look at paint edges and edges of panel gaps for paint lines ( means likely repaint/crash), look at all 4 tire/tread wear (inside wear as well as outside), bring a flashlight: look under the car well for oil spots and grime spots meaning likely leaks/problems...look for scrapes and impact spots like from curbs or hitting something, make sure all the under body panels are there/attached, look for massive amount of rust, try to look at the engines serpentine belt for old/cracks/warn out, check floor boards for stains or sign of water/pull up floormats, make sure A/c blowing hot air than cold air, check air filters which means you need to pop up the front black plastic panel with 8 push pins. look at exhaust while running look for hint of grey smoke oil leak from turbos or the sweet coolant smell/get down and look and smell.
I don’t have a oil
catch can I own a 2019 Q50 Red Sport and it’s been reliable even tho I did tune the car it’s making 520-530hp I’m
Fbo I always change my oil
Every 3k miles or less I use 5w-40 rotella t6 oil
Sounds good. I like the Shell Rotella motor oil. Ducati recommends the use of their 4T oil. I picked up a 2020 Pre owned Ducati motorcycle. Love it!
@@GettingthruLife my tuner recommended me that oil for VR30 I have other vr owner telling me to run this T6 rotella oil
@@VERY_RAREQ50RS I have known about this for about 3 years and considered too but hadn't made the switch yet myself. Though I'd like to get 0w-30 myself.
you not making 530whp on stock wheels and fitment bro
@@queuefiddy9063 Bro, you clearly didn't listen to the video and what I stated did not register in your brain. I stated in two spots my car and other similar cars with a good ecu tune can make 500hp and 510 tq backed up by actual local Dyno Jet dyno +/-. This is at the flywheel as almost every vehicle manufacturer states their hp numbers. Also, that was the old tune without the much better and bigger CBE which was added and retuned at Racebox whom is a better tuner. The car as sits in the video makes in the range 445-450 rwhp. Not a high number or unrealistic. Also, just to clarify, when I stated the average 120-150 hp gain for a tune, that's when added to the base model Q50-60 3.0T 300whp version. All the information is correct and accurate.
What’s the part number for Mishimoto heat exchanger and the oil catch can? 2018 Infiniti q50 twin turbo?
Best thing to do is go to mishimoto website and enter car and year. Pulls it right up for you. Likely can score a 10% discount code too found on their site when you visit.
@@GettingthruLife ok I can do that
Getting an engine replacement for my 2018 3.0T awd.. metal shavings were in my oil… the new engine is going to have 59k miles. Whats the life expectancy of our vehicles left completely stock?
There's so many variables at play. That would be like me predicting how long a random off the street 20 year old is going to live. All/a lot is determined by the previous owner/s. If you had a new motor to start with and you routinely changed the oil and fluids to the full levels then much more predictable results. People report 100,000+ miles on 2016-17 models. I'm sure there are loads of 18-20 year old infinit's with 125,000-150,000+ running around. I see them all the time and many look in fantastic shape and sometimes I cat with the owner. They live their car/suv/crossover.
This is because the VR is not a reliable engine. If someone asked you what the VQ37s lifetime would be, you'd tell them about 300k miles easily. The VR can't even touch half that milage without blowing something even when maintaibed correctly. B58 is what the VR should have been
Since your tuned are you still on warranty?
My warranty period is still good. Long history of people who have been ecutek tuned and have used their Infiniti warranty if they needed it. Just depends on many variables and dealerships. Even damaged turbos from the own negligence blowoff valves, jb4, cbe, airbox/filter and catless downpipes.
Picking up a 2018 q60 redsport 400, does it already have a good cooling system? Or should i upgrade heat exchanger and oil cooler as well?
My car the 2019's oil temp never exceeds 200. I don't now why you need to upgrade oil to more oil cooling. Maybe if road racing but who road course races a Infiniti? Towing...a possibility?
The Redsport model definity needs a bigger/better cooling hx. If I had lots of money the mishimoto twin top mount intercooler would be super cool to have.
Redsport have dual hx motors and the companies like AMS say its worth while upgrade for the non redsport folks.
Hx to look at: ams, mishimoto, aam, plm, z1 Motorsports. Whichever one floats your boat or the one you can save the most $$$.
I went with AMS HE, overflow and reserve. As prior poster pointed out, money is typically the limiting factor.
Red sport has an oil heat exch , however u need a intercooler HE and a tune then fly
Occ will not stop the build up. Nature of a direct injection engine. Had occ on my Focus ST and build up still happened. Oil change every 3000 miles 🤷🏾. Bought it with 34 miles and 99967 miles it had a Occ. At 100,007 miles I looked at the valves and they were coated. Looked like a diamond mine. Traded it in for the Q50 RS. Occ was wasted money. It’s going to happen regardless.
Not all catch cans are created equal. Most basic vapor blowby catch cans are just a "janky" baffled design. That won't cut it. The actual filtered type is the one that works.
I had a 2013 Focus ST as well and I bought a Diamind Brand that was recommended from the ST Forum. That was the only OCC availble as far as main stream bolton. I knew nothing about occ then.
Obviously, if you stop or severely limit all residue blowby from being injected into the intake ports, then you won't have the buildup. DI engines suffer intake valve coaking/buildup because of the emissions system. You, in your situation didn't stop the emmissions system blowby from reaching your DI intake ports.
Reason why I preach in 3-4 prior mishimoto catch can video i have made, only buy the Mishimoto. Many people opt to buy the inferior Add One brand, just baffled catchcan brand.
I really wish I could justify the cost and effort to buy an endoscope camera and look down into my intake ports. At this time Mishimoto is the only brand that sells the 50 micron filtered oil vapor blowby catch can.
@@GettingthruLife not here to go back and forth with you but I have that same Occ on the Q50 (Mishimoto). I have a family member(brother), certified mechanic 15 years, that has a endoscope camera and we are already seeing build up starting 🤷🏾♂️. 27000 miles🤷🏾♂️. I bought it with 4000 miles on it. This is what led me to say Occ are a waste of money. The oil that they do catch leads you to believe it’s working but buildup is still happening 🤷🏾♂️. It’s the nature of the beast. DI has its pros/cons. Buildup is just a byproduct.
You mentioned a Focus ST and not a q50 with a mishimoto in your post..I don't read minds or thoughts. I read your post.
If you think your mishimito occ is a waste of money take it off and sell to someone else. 4000 miles with no catch can is enough mileage to allow some oil vapor to be deposited, which would turn into some buildup which your family member mechanic saw.
You likely won't listen but I had my Focus ST with only 10k on motor no catchcan and it's intake valves where extremely covered in carbon and goo.
Direct injection is not the nature of the beast in the grand scheme because being DI alone does not cause carbon buildup on intake valves. It's the emmison system added that directs the crankcase vapor through a hose up to the pre-intake valves. Disconnect this emmissions pcv and then the ccv hoses then the intake valves stop getting coated. Downside is the emmisions system built into the car is functionally a part of it. Reason a person can't just disconnect it and bypass to the atmosphere plus it's illegal.
Disclosure, i never stated that the mishimoto occ catches 100% all "blowby by" but 85-90+ is way way better than 50% or no OCC at all.
I truly wish I could justify the time to look at my intake valves. Then I could prove what I say/think. I put my mishi occ on with approx 400 miles on my odometer as documented in my 1st, Q50 3.0t mishimoto install video almost 4 yrs ago.
Also, what brand occ was on your Focus ST. That's the car you 1st told me about. That car 99.9% didn't have a mishimoto occ with the 50 micron filter.
@@GettingthruLife not trying to argue with you at all. I never said I had a Mishimoto on the ST. Go back and read my post. No mind reading needed. The Q50 has the Mishimoto. As I stated in my second post at 27000 miles I’m seeing buildup and as you said it’s not 100%. This is also why I say a Occ is not solving the problem of valve buildup 🤷🏾♂️. You say it catches 85-90%. I think less. Again this not an argument! Just two guys talking cars. If you in DFW area let me know.
I’m getting a 2020Q50 with 30K milles on it this Wednesday 9/23/23 how can I clean the valves so I can add a oil catch can
1st question is, where/who are you getting your car from? You don't need to tell me a person specific name.
Best thing to do skipping to the point is watch a hand full of self-cleaning intake valves videos on youtube. Get the best understanding you can and how you want to do it yourself. There's good videos out there. Best but most expensive would be to have them cleaned professionally so 100% sparkling shinny new look. (get photos before cleaning if you get/have access to see them, to share on the internet). Then I'd buy the Mishimoto Q50/Q60 blowby oil catch can (.50 micron bronze filter). Mishimoto has some 10% off discount codes I see from time to time. Just baffled catch cans alone don't fully catch and separate super heated moisture vapor from the airflow through the can which then flows back into the intake port.
So I should go 5w-30 ? & it’ll be totally safe ? My vq always took 5w-30 never had problems
After 4 years with this car and researching a ton and my general experience I'd select 0w-20 for cold weather 50 and below if you live in a climate that stay that temp a lot. I'd select 5w-30 if you live in a climate that stays more hot, like 80 -110. 0w-20 oil gives better fuel economy and the reason Infiniti ship these car with that in them. For more warm/hot engine protection on warmer day 5w-30. Don't do 10w-40 or 5w-40 or 20w-50 because of this motor's tolerances and design. So folks have mentioned there you can buy 0-30 which is the best of both worlds but no as easy to buy and likely more expensive, JFYI online order.
Hey i have a Infiniti q50 2017 3.0 i hear a noise after de acceleration its like a small whine it’s not from the hood side
If coming from the mid to rear section of your car could possibly be driveshats or the section that it splits into to sections. Could possible be the rear differential, maybe a wheel bearing going out?
im going to be pulling the trigger on a used 2018 q50, 49k miles on it, and a a removed catalytic converter all for $26,000, is this a solid deal???
All depends on the car's internal health. Check the oil level, oil color hopefully not black and the consistency of water. Check radiator level, check heat exchanger coolant level on reservoir tanks. look at the four tires treadwear patterns, Do you best to inspect the serpentine main pully belt for excessive wear and crack. One thing about buying used with 50-60K mileage is you likely are the one spending the money on maintenance items. I'd consider a trans flush, replace of diff fluid and even a brake fluid replacement. Likely the brake pads are close to needing to be replaced too.
Worth it if you get a well looked after car and not worth if it's been poorly looked after. I personally from the horror stories would only buy this car new but you can I'm sure find good ones. I personally would try to buy from an older 35-55 yo person who's the original owner and can validate the car. Otherwise I would not buy from any random car lot and likely not from a different car dealership that knows very little about Infiniti. A lot of these cars are bought at auctions and in reality, the auctions are an unreliable source for quality and history. Like I've suggested many times, write the V.I.N down and call Infiniti help line/or go to a quality/up scale Infiniti dealership and have them look up the history on the car you want to buy. I would not buy these cars with little to no history. With all the natural disasters happening these days, used cars could have been in a flood or water damaged last 4-5 years. Half a million cars last 5-6 years have been flooded and many with salt water.
Brother I’d keep looking, I bought mine private owned 4 months ago 2019 with 24k miles at 25,500$ off an older lady she was the first owner. Be patient when searching as it always pays off
@@jesus11005 silver sport, salvaged title due to back quarter panel ... 32k miles 2018 for 18k$ ???? Clean on the inside 👌..... should I get it?
@@lulmoewiththegimpyleg6815did you get?
Bought a 2018 Q50 sport 60k miles, and the heat exchanger reservoir is full of oil. Seems like power steering fluid or some type of fluid that is gold in color. I removed the reservoir and sure clean gold colored oil. How the hell is that possible. Previous owner put oil in the wrong place?
Man that is nuts but a lot of people don't have a clue and dont want one. Likely need to do a chemical flush too. Like means the car was run hot which could lead to more wear and tear. Then makes me wonder about the heat exchanger motor/pump condition. Those are not cheap.
I bought a q50 2.0 with 90k miles on it,I’ve searched the vin and seen a transmission fluid change has never been done,should I do it or you think I’m going to have any problems?
I would think that's a lot of miles if no trans fluid change. I would expect/think I'd do trans trans flush or trans partial/full replace at 40ish 1000 miles. If I were you, I'd call Z1 Motorsports support and ask one of their infinit/nissan transmission gurus what they recommend. Then buy your fluids from them. They know everything about these cars.
I am not well versed in transmission repair, fluids, and proper intervals and practices. I in the past 13-14 yrs, I buy new cars and sell them every 2 years.
I had a very nice 2006 -2007 Ford Taurus, bought used with 35k miles. Drove it into the 80k+ miles with no trans fluid change. Likely never had trans fluid anything done. When I hit 85k the trans went out, broke. Cost to fix or swap to a reconditioned trans was estimated $3,000 -4000k. I traded the car broken for a new Ford car. Was a sad day. I liked that fully loaded, leather Taurus. I had a full sound system installed in it and brand new tires and battery.
I just watched this video. I think it was helpful to watch: ruclips.net/video/5nK5j3SEylA/видео.html
just got mine 2016 3.0 only 30k miles
Awesome man, just keep tabs on essential things: fluid levels, fluid consistency, serpentine belt for condition (some folks car's due to the environment need this belt replaced sooner). If you or the person before you bashed on the car often or regularly, then hard driving takes its toll on drivetrain parts. All the popular cars have their own shortcomings when pushed. Maintenance helps. A car with 30 to 40k start to think about brake fluid flush, diff oil change, trans/converter fluid flush, unless oil look fresh replace, maybe a blue hx/radiator coolant replace. All just prolongs/extends further operation.
Defiantly need a catch can 1st
@Nathan Daniel That's what I did. 1st thing I bought in 2019 Mishimoto oil catch can.
Just put Amsoil 0w30 if you’re torn between 0w20 and 5w30. Best of both worlds
Yep, that would be an option for both winter performance and summer.
Do you have anything against Z1’s oil catch can? You said you only recommend mushamito
From looking at the Mishimoto internal portion of their CC I see it has the parts needed to successfully capture the most crankcase blowby, deverter plate, a plate with holes in it midway down, and the bronze 50 micron filter.
As far as I've seen, companies like ADD W1 dont show what the inside of their CC's consist of other than just saying "baffles" a bunch of times. Same with Z1. what does their inside look like? How does it function to catch oil mist and condensation? I like Z1 products as they make a lot of performance parts for the Z and Q50-060's. I just have no personal experience with a Z1 oil catch can.
If it doesn't have a filter that attempts to catch moisture and mist (oil and water vapor) being blown into it, then it will only catch/stop say 50% of the blowby entering the device. It's why I have had people through the years say catch cans don't work because they report still having gunk on their intake valve while using one, but then I ask "what brand catch can are you using". I never hear back from them.
Interesting fact: A glass pickle jar with a metal top and two holes cut in it for the two hoses rrun into to it will look like and function like a generic catch can. It will catch some oil contents but not do the job very well. The point of a good catch can is to catch nearly all of the oil/vapor blowby being sent through it. An inferior catch can design just means you intake valves will get gunked up slightly slower.
That's my honest opinion and why I believe in the Mishimoto design.
Thanks
@@B_Law726 Mishimoto seems to be one of the few who show the internals of their catch can: www.z1motorsports.com/oil-catch-can/mishimoto/mishimoto-compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-port-p-11657.html?list_name=SearchResults&oid=11657%3A0%3A83521%3A91&qid=4bff379ce248b2f5fe842ae8acc958a2
@@GettingthruLife How easy is it to empty the catch can and what frequency? For example, check and empty with every oil change or every air filter change (once year)?
@B_Law726 on the Q50-60 with the specific mounting bracket that cones with kit, I take out the 3 small bolts that hold Catch can to the bracket. Slip the CC away from bracket and out between the driver side intercooler then unscrew the bottom portion of the catch can.
Just depends on the car, how much driving ones does. You get the mishimito CC, in first month check it/clean it out then will have a better idea of how often it needs attention.
I check/clean mine out every 3-4 months. If I drove more, maybe every 2 months. With these turbo cars, it's not a bad idea to be eyeballing fluid levels about the same times anyway (coolant levels and oil level) so not a big deal.
Hey just bought a 2018 3.0 with 74k miles and it’s smokes a little out the exhaust what should I check for first?
Keep an eye on coolant resivor tank levels. If coolant is vanishing, then it's likely being leaked into the combustion process from a porous block or gasket failure. I've found it hard to smell the exhaust fumes for what people claim is a sweet smell when coolant is burnt. Also, exhaust when cooler usually looks smokey even if in the 60 degrees. Also, can send in oil sample to Blackstone and get analysis to see if coolant is in your oil. Sometimes can drain oil and see coolant in it if bad enough.
@@GettingthruLife what gaskets would it most likely be ?
@@AntonioRodriguez-xp9viI'm not a specified vehicle mechanic or a self-proclaimed Infiniti guru expert but could be a head gasket issue plus some engines have encounter porous block material too. The coolant over time seeps through the pores in the metal and then gets into other areas where it's not supposed to be.
@@GettingthruLife am going to do a coolant bleed tdy and keep an eye on the level . As for my head gasket I haven’t encountered any other symptoms of a bad one but I’ll keep you updated on the the problem so you’d like to share it in the future
Your making 500whp on this setup?
500 at the crank. This is how all cars sold new, last 40 plus years advertise their car's factory hp. Mustang 5.0 and all the high hp Dodges the same at the flywheel numbers. In the world where casual people live, I just sometimes quote flywheel rating. 434 rwhp, my actual dyno # and 510 torque ( Jotech Motorsports Jan 2020). GT 5.0 460 hp and 6.4 dodge 485 hp. In my not so naive opinion, modern transmissions are less of a drag than those found in the 1990's and early 2000 sporty car transmissions. Instead of .18% it's now closer to .14 maybe .15 max % loss to wheels Lower. With catless lower only downpipes good for say 10 more hp with tuning. Full catless downpipes takes that up 20-22 more hp with the proper tuning. I'd be right there at 455+/- rwhp with that setup tuned. Just elected to keep my 4 catalytic converters and tiny 2" factory downpipes.
Also I made a mistake. It got to 19 degrees here's nothing in the reservoir. I did top off it was lottery none. It's supposed to stay between min max that tiny bit. Put it bottom line at max I got the tune I use 0w20 I use 10w40 in my z. I got the tune. Yeah more user error you abuse it it's gonna break. Common sense. I did get a mishimoto oil catch can. Not even driving hard it consumes
Where's it's twin turbo def need. Yeah I was personally paranoid. Until it contracts and expands. Tuned in the q50 or q60 mine is an 18 used like I said it'would have had some if it was abused. The turbo seals,but where I live and my eyes suck lol. No change I topped off when I wouldn't have again. This car is so complicated.
Always keep an eye on fluid levels, once a month to keep tabs on things. If one of the fluids always disappears then there is a problems that needs to be addressed. The car in a sense gives the owner signs that its not feeling well and need to see a doctor/infiniti service.
I do every week. At full warm up and driving it's at the bottom of the max when the beats on it stays a bit over half way. Think I got lucky. Mines an 18. Not all q50/60 were plaqued by this issue but,guess I got lucky.
Hey howds it going I recently just bought a q50 but it wobbles when I break in high speed from 80 to 60 wha you think it might be ?
Could be a number of things. Warped brake rotors, worn out ball joints, bad tires. Could be from an accident or just worn out parts. An alignment shop might be able to find the issue or a general mechanic with vehicle up on a lift.
Mine does the same thing if I brake anywhere at 50-70
just got a 2020 q50s with 9k miles for 34k this a good deal?
Do you love it? If you do then sounds like a good deal. 9K is low miles so you should be better off on that front. I bought mine new in 2019 July and I think it stickered around 44K before taxes/fees/junk. I would think the 2020 sport version in 2023 is a good price.
Do you need one for each turbo?
A oil/vapor blowby catchcan?.. no, just need one OCC hooked up to the primary pcv line located on the driver's side cylinder head where the specific emissions hose is.
Lol u we’re def talking about boost in motion
check oil every 1k miles? my chrysler with 125k does not need that much attention. ill check midway between changes and call it a day. never had to top off.
Its just good to keep an eye on fluids nothing difficult or maintenence heavy unless bought into a turd.. Some and many run these 3.0t motors with mods into ground and neglect maintenance. With a torquey motor and twin small turbos pushing 300, 400 and 500hp have more oil blowby than non forced induction.
temperature has to do with the fluid’s having to be checked and coming from someone who bought a Q50 in TEXAS that shit sucks
@Kulxc 105 today and with humidity it officially feels like 115+. I'm in Glen Rose Texas today and it's dangerous to be outside.
@@GettingthruLife a state being this hot on earth should be illegal
@Kulxc Southern/Central states heat and humidity is nasty and kills people. I've been to other states hot climates and piece of cake. Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and even southern Arkansas is pure he'll. I will move if/when I have the opportunity.
I was in my 2019 low mileage Q50 yesterday during this heatwave, most time I stay inside, had to drive and my wonderful cars A/C felt like it wasn't even working. It couldn't cool the air it was dealing with.
dont forget to tell them to switch to 5w30 oil asap
I think a good rule of thumb is 5w-30 for warmer climates 80 and above. 0w-20 for cooler climates 10 degrees to 70. 0w-30 synthetic oil if access to it and added cost is what you do.
Can I put 5w-30 on my q50 3.0t ? 36k miles
Yes you can. What's in my car now.
i have 534 and been using 0w-20 well my dealer if i transition to 5w-30 now would anything happen?@@GettingthruLife
@@vonksummer9099nope. It’s better. Just don’t use it if you live in places that get below 40 degrees. Also put in 6.2 quarts and buy a z1 updated dipstick.
2020 Q50 3.0t 50k miles. too late for catch can??
I'd say not the end of the world if you don't get OCC. Now if you had your intake valves cleaned, then by all means yes. If you were ever had engine work done where your valves could be cleaned because the dealership is removing parts or doing extensive work then 100 percent have them cleaned and then get at least the Mishimoto 50 micron filtered catch can. (After 15K miles from new a VR30 motor's valves will be pretty coated in black carbon buildup in the intake chamber's of the cylinder heads. It just happens.
Can I install at 80k miles?? Thanks!
I'd only buy and install one (oil catch can)at 80k mar if I had a new motor installed or after valve cleaning procedure. It might be better served, money spent to have an intake valvve cleaning done by a shop. Get before photos and after photos as a trophy or badge of honor.
those valves do get black and crusty. i seent it.
Some people just want to be oblivious, uneducated intentionally or unintentionally, but yes emissions blow-by, simply put, gets caked on the backside of intake valves on plenty of D.I. motors.
Bro was the link so I can oder that stuff
Plessis I need the website
@@monicababy1056You mean the Mishimoto oil catch can? These used to be $225 now 260 as we know everything has gone up. Sometimes Mishimoto offers a 10% off coupon code. www.mishimoto.com/infiniti-q50-q60-catch-can-2016.html
Ya you’d have to be an air head to pour bad oil your intentionally preventing from going in the engine back into the engine
Well that person was thinking it was straight oil the catch can was catching. The world is full of ignorant people.
Its a nissan Z no such thing as 400 but good video
Early on it was referred to as the 400Z. Not buy me but the vehicle industry.
Literally tons of people around the world and vehicle publications that identified/ referred Nissan's latest 2-door sports car the 400Z, www.autoevolution/news/2021-nissan-400z-renderings-preview-twin-turbo-v6-production-model-144897.html
Also, tons of average people, people who own the car who saw the plausible name mentioned "Nissan 400z" and still use the moniker even years later such as myself:
ruclips.net/user/shortsrXxjyabvSPc
ruclips.net/video/RbphoWb0hPg/видео.html , ruclips.net/user/shorts5rE3kJIIRpM
www.youtube/shorts/VuH2hzxcnFI
I honestly think that you should have written down everything that wanted to talk about before filming the video. I mean, who doesn't unless it a live stream...
To be honest the people who are the biggest critics and most likely to try to share their advice or perspective are always 99.9% the ones with no videos of their own that they have made, zero or very low subscribers and also very little positive YT activity. I can see your channel activity and history very easily. With RUclips viewers this likely means either they have no/lack creative talent, they are scared themselves to make a video based on their voice or their presence, they are super lazy, they don't like talking to or in front of people, and maybe they have nothing what-so-ever interesting to say. Hard to take advice from or listen to someone who has no foot to stand on. I do this for fun and many times just to try to be helpful in some way. Someone or anyone who doesn't like what I do, how I do it and/or fails to gain anything from watching my videos is always free to leave.
@@GettingthruLife Well that doesn't change the fact that you should've prepared notes before making this video. I truly enjoyed reading your touchy response. It was really entertaining. Thank you 😊
@@nightcoregirlprinzeugen7234 Go make a 100 videos where you talk, present and edit then get back to me in a year. There are different approaches to making videos, different styles and to say I don't do something right or think about the process or practice is because you know very little about it and you have little to no background to speak from. Most youtubers would just delete your comment and move on but I don't like to do that but I can.
@@GettingthruLifeI liked your video and I subscribed to your channel. I wouldn't do so if I didn't like your content. I don't make videos, I just watch them. You're the expert in this field and I will acknowledge that fact. Ok? Thank you...
@@nightcoregirlprinzeugen7234 I'm not mad or upset but I can 100% explain myself and share my respons. Reason I am quick to go into a detailed response is because making videos is not as easy as "non making video" people think. People that spend time making videos usually don't feel the need to critic other's videos unless specifically asked too. I am not a professional actor , trained in acting school, or am I making a movie or a paid advertisement. I watch hundreds of videos in a week with a large gap in quality and expertise but I never feel the need or justify the fact to tell a individual person what I dislike about their video, what they need to do better or in some people's cases leave a foul or distasteful message. thanks for leaving a like and subscribing> I appreciate you comments and do take things typed into consideration.
maditory?
Yes unless you want dirty intake valves down the road that affect performance, fuel economy, start up and a smooth running engine. Your choice.
@@GettingthruLife 3 maditory items
I have 2016 q50. Engine was replace with new motor replace under warranty
Infiniti does a good job of representing their warranty coverage from the people I've known that need to use plus plenty of others that had expensive repair/replace needs.
Here's a thought, from a former G35 owner. Lose the Infinity, its a glorified nissan hence garage. Youre better off buying a civic or camry. I have never hated a car as much as my infiniti. Nothing nut problems, too many "dealer only" overpriced parts, high maintenance costs, poor electrical (💩 soldering connections), poor quality of interior finishes, etc.
Ill never buy an infiniti/nissan product again.
My infinite car experince is vastly different than yours. A lot of people and seeming more and more younger people are buying used/preowned Infiniti and its not usually done from reputable, established Nissan/Infiniti dealers. My car is pretty wonderful, comfortable and since I've onwed 30 years of cars and trucks, I'd suggest fit , finish and quality is high for car under 50K new with near 300whp. I bought new and I take very good care of the things I own so that makes a difference. If you buy into a turd, usually that is the buyer fault and of course likey to have issues, problems and faults. Just putting Infinit up against the likes of Audi, BMW, Alfa Romeo...they actually score semi low and are more expensive and parts. Sorry you had a bad experience with your 2003-2007 year model Infiniti. Maybe look into buying a new or low mileage 15-20K, well cared for 2019-2024 model and maybe your opinion would change.
@GettingthruLife yes well not all of us can afford $60 grand for a new "luxury" car. Most of us are stuck buying Hondas or Chevs, etc. My position stands though, and I've seen hundreds of videos complaining about same issues. Faulty soldering resulting in defective instrument cluster, cheap plastic in seat motors resulting in them failing. Cheap thin steel that rusts like no ones business, etc. My civic had twice the km, was arguably worse cared for was spotless undercarriage. My G35, once I started cleaning it up was rotted to the core. Then there's the issue with their transmissions, most of which are junk and prone to known failure points (tranny cooling system), the junk cvt tranny they use.
I can't speak for you, but I AM mechanic trained and have always done my own work on my vehicles, so I to speak from an experience of actually having to do the service on them. Not just driving around.
I cringed so hard when he said she put the blow-by back into her motor… man…
I used to watch the RUclipsr StangMode because before the Infiniti Q50 purchase I thought about buying a 2018-2019 GT 5.0. The Ford dealers were quoting me insane financing prices. Anyways, he did a J&L OCC (oil catch can) video showing that platform only benefited from a single catch can system. I can't find the video now, I tried.
@@GettingthruLife the new 10 speed is good
@@issavibez394 Oh for sure the newest 8 and 10 speeds are really good. This seven speed is perfect for this car. Its not intended to be a all out sports car. Its a good mix between comfort, reliability, smooth for the most part and it can handle up to 600 whp which is impressive. Nothing wrong with a transmission with a torque converter setup.
@@GettingthruLife so for best gas mileage and performance too we need the oil catch can what brand ?
@@khabrahasunny1947 I would say for a newly purchase q50/60 VR30 3.0t its a must buy. Buy as soon as you can and install. For these cars with 30K+ miles I'd debate it. If you plan on keeping the Q50 for 10 years and you are in love with it and plan on making it 500-600 whp fun car then buy a $200+ Mishimoto OCC. Otherwise if the car you've bought used has 40K miles then the intake valves already look pretty bad as far oil gunk and carbon buildup. If you plan on doing a valve cleaning or have it professional done walnut blasting then of course buy a Mishimoto brand which come with their bronze 50 micron filter which does all the work separating oil/liquids from the air which gets sent back into the combustion chambers.
put some damn socks on Brian ! (っ °Д °;)っ
Feet in videos is knarly yes, but I get lazy. During nice weather I like to wear minimal clothing. Athletic shorts, tanktop and no shoes. My dog chewed my last pair of sandals that I liked.
I love "Maditory Items". A big one is the terrible transmission. They're trash. Also a motor is electric; and engine is the word you're after. Also MPG is not a good indicator of which oil you should use. Some really weird content. 17 minutes to say - get a catch can, check your fluids. FFS.
You must not have this car like 99.9 of the negative commentors. And looking at your channel gives me a good indication of who's commenting. Of course, you have zero videos and zero car/ mechanical content. Plus, it seems you must lack the skill to make, shoot and post a video/s but the commenting part is super easy.
The transmission in this car is just fine. If you own this car, then tell me why this 7sp trans with the stall converter setup is terrible. And yes mandatory unless you like and appreciate compromised intake valves.
My entire life, 50+ years, I've heard an read engine also called a motor and the vast internet agrees. Google motor oil and then engine oil. You really must have personal issues if you find this a problem which you do. I can't help you there.
Note: your comnents are one of the more weird I've gotten on 177 Q50 car videos, nearly 5yr running and over 1,000+ comments. Congrats!
In closing, you need to do some basic research on automotive engine/motor oil because a manufacturer picks their oil viscosity/weight based on many variables which can be centered around efficiency and mpg. -Google it
If you don't like the video, or you get triggered by it, then best advice is don't/stop watching. I hope you find this acceptable.
@@GettingthruLife Straw-man argument with layman's ideas and a whole lot of assumptions does not make you correct. Plus you spelled "mandatory" wrong in the thumbnail. Muppet.
Dude, you need to get to the point
Try making some videos yourself and maybe have more understanding. Making video for some is like telling a story. It's my story and not a advertisment. Anyways, i will think about your criticism.
What are you saying? Infiniti forgot that part. BS aftermarket junk
I think this is one of the most numbnuts comments I've ever received and I have had plenty, congratulations🏆
Exactly! Pretty sure if it needed it , the engineers would have put one.
@@DonnythelatemodeltechDo your research on this car and a catch can before you make stupid comment is all I can say. Just search "clean intake valves DI or GDI engine" to see. A proper OCC installed prevents the blowby going into PCV which deposits the buildup on the valves. And you call yourself a mechanic, yikes. Own the car and then you may learn more about it.
@@DonnythelatemodeltechI own this car of course new and I also owned a new Ford Focus ST, another turbo direct injection engine. Turbos/forced induction compounds and magnifies the carbon buildup on the intake valves, period. All do to the due to the increased air escaping past the rings. I saw/have seen the results of how a proper oil catch can works, with a micron filter, and the results of using the catch, what it captures from the PCV emissions system.
To deny the benefits of using a proper OCC just mean stupidity and or arrogance. I'm not a mean person but truth be told. Every few months because I don't drive a lot, as much as some, I empty my catch can and in those times what's caught is up to half a baby food food jar worth of water/condensation, oil blowby and other contaminates that looks like maple syrup blended together. Not only does this blowby build up on the intake valves hurting performance and drive-ability, it also lowers fuel octane and the quality of the burn in the cylinders which can increase engine knock. Just do your research before commenting on something you seem to have little experience with. I've been doing this for four years plus Q50h and another 2 with the Ford Focus ST.
I'd safely assume up to 2 quarts of nasty blowby has been caught over the time period with the Infiniti/Nissan 3.0T motor. I have videos showing draining and what the contents have been. I have a couple hundred Q50 3.0T videos. Just watch the1000's of videos online until you can't watch anymore and deny. Some cars/vehicles are worse than others and it's a very common problem that plagues many direct injection vehicles, fact. Answer/solution: is to try and catch the blowby in the PCV before it's sent back through the intake per the EPA.
One out of many, many videos: ruclips.net/video/LTV-uHv5Cwk/видео.html
@@DonnythelatemodeltechI"ve spent more than enough time here. Conversation done. Thanks for viewing. Have a decent day.
Really don’t like some of the info in this video.
😂😂😂😂No way 500/510 is happening on this car with those modes. 😂😂😂
Haters are common in the car world and more so on youtube. I have the calibrated Dynojet session, actually many done by a local Master Ecutek tuner. And at the time 3 years ago it was done without the current 2.5" dual/x-pipe cbe I have added now and then retuned. I have 175 videos on this 3.0t Q50 so lots of content where you will find the tuning video that documents the 433.7 rwhp and 513.14 max torque. Note: if you add back the 15% loss from the driveline that shows the estimated +/- hp at the crank which is 499 +/-. Many folks in the Vehicle Industry still use .18%.
As mentioned done 3 years ago (dynojet results) @ 5:13 ruclips.net/video/YCxr2tFv5-k/видео.html🤭 I like you, have now been tuned by Hissain at Racebox which was done 2.7 years ago because of the refinement and his added knowledge with the Infiniti/Nissan VR30 motor.
Why so much effort to respond, Big Dog?
Independent of the fact of the matter, telling people catch can, air intakes + catback (no mention crank or wheel, with a tune as an afterthought = 500&500. Deceptive, at best.
Not a hater...or a poser. We can tell that because i'm not posting videos as any kind of authority on you tube.
You have a good day.
@@thinkfast469 By the way a person that has to confirm and justify their comment on youtube with silly faced emojis to try and sink their point in is either an immature adult or a female. Again by you referring to me as Big Dog is apparently your immature way of holding conversation. Attempting in some way to be cute or sharp witted or degrading. Just stop showing your so-called intelligence or better yet lack of intelligence.
(Note below: Jotech Motorsports showcases under Infiniti along with their tuned Porsche, Lamborghini, Mclaren and etc, their Q50-60's with what amounts to the Dynojet 438 to 445whp with just their Ecutek 93 tunes, intake upgrade and CBE.
And yes, when I said/say hp I mean hp as stated in the video. Clearly not whp/rwhp/awhp. (sometimes I guess I need to assume not everyone is on the same level of knowledge and understanding) General hp is rated at the motor. Note: Every car manufacturer on the planet states their vehicles rated power as hp and not whp. In the video I was no different. No deception as you say but only in your mind because you didn't listen or it didn't compute.
***Also, video never stated or intended to specify that an oil catch can adds hp. That is literally idiotic for you to suggest and you did because you wrote it above. Video's topic was generalized around taking care of your Infiniti 3.0T. Your initial post should have been just taken down because it's really just you posting inaccurate accusations and it's like you didn't even watch the video. Note: If you just want to battle with me I will consider removing your comment/s and possibly removing you JFYI. and be done.
www.jotechracing.com/portfolio-item/stage-1-rsq/
www.jotechracing.com/portfolio-item/stage-1-vdq50/
Ignore him, he dont own a vr30, i for jb4 ldp cbe and filters and grapped a gt350 shilby mustang with 526 hp
3.0t is a very unreliable engine and I'd stay away from any yr with this engine.
I guess this is terrible developing news for the highly popular 2023-2024 Nissan Z.
You don't own one you don't know shit I have a modified one that gives me very little issues
What do you drive? Monsoon
@@austinkeho7567 I'd bet Monsoon doesn't even have a valid DL, but that don't keep him from sneakin out Moms Chrysler Pacifica after hours when she forgets to put the keys up. So yea if any1 lookin to run a roll or dig, look out for the minivan with the blue underglow leds at local street races for Monsoon. How's my aim Monsoon? and if you try clapping back with some cap like u daily a gtr or some bs, it better be accompanied by a time stamped post on your YT account driving whatever hoopdy u r struggling to pay off. Until then save the ignorant comments (i.e "Very Unreliable")about a platform you don't have a clue about...lol
@@alexobmann9329 let’s run that dig in the minivan monsoon 💨💨💨 I’ve been meaning to stretch the legs of my Q 😂😂😂🤙 that’s funny bruh