I have a 2017 q50 premium that I purchased last year pre owned with 36,000 miles, 2 weeks after having it I had both turbos, belt, and water pump replaced under warranty. 1year has passed and the car has been great, and I’m ontop on maintience. No issues. I run a jb4 map 2 for daily driving and blow off valves. Runs great.
No, all you need is the JB4 boost controller. I'm not a fan of the JB4 but a low boost increase map 2 is realistic for the car's ecm and faxtory setting to deal with. Do not remove catalytic converters by adding downpipes and run JB4 and blowoff valves. You will damage your turbos over time. Blowoff valves and catless downpipes need Ecutek tuning to recalibrate for these changes. Proof is why there are so many troubled 2016-2018 turbo Q50/60's. Lots of misinformation in 2016-2018. Good tuners started to developed their skills and knowledge in early 2019 going forward.
@@GettingthruLife I see, I saw a lot of people recommending downpipes but I’m just trying to do a heat exchanger and JB4 if I ever do get the car, I also know nothing about modding vehicles so I want to be careful, maybe an exhaust too or something
I own 2007 G35S and 2010 M35X and both are EXTREMELY reliable so far... (They both were 2-3 year old used cars when I bought them) By the way, we also plan to buy a used Q50 3.0t for my wife because my daughter will need a car next year(she will be driving M35X then). Now my son is driving my previous G35S and I'm driving a GSF!!!
Cool, thanks for sharing. There are still plenty of older Infiniti's on the road and many look in great condition. I've always liked the FX35 and the G vehicle. Short story, my older next door neighbor had a black G-coup maybe a 2011-2012 in near mint condition stuck in the tiny garage. He only drove it on only certain occasions/random weekends as he had a work truck. His car was spotless as it was his baby. Back in 2015-2016 he up and died of cancer/lost his fight. His ragtag family members from another state swooped in and stripped out his house and took his Infiniti. At that time I knew nothing about Infiniti's but I always admired his Infiniti when I saw it pulling out.
The best mods I did was lower downpipes and hks blow off valves and will do catch can and mishimoto heat exchanger and replace the garbage stock exhaust system and AMS remote tune
Bottom line is : reliability factor boils down to proper maintenance. One thing you didn't mention on that car : TURBO COOL DOWN. Even though it is modern car same principles apply.
If you are talking about letting the car idle for a couple minutes before just coming to a stop and shutting it off, I have a video made just 3 weeks ago about cooling the turbos and it's mentioned in some other videos too. ruclips.net/video/mvnLasQ0C-g/видео.html Thanks for your response!
So give it a couple minutes to just rest after parking, when able? For those of us in routinely Hot climates...anything further than heat exchanger and blow off valves recommended? Thanks in advance!
@@DV8N1 If taking on the task of adding a better heat exchanger because you want/like to push this car then there are options. I just wished Infiniti would have put more effort to set this 3.0t to succeed. If not on the basic model, pure & luxe, then on the sport and red sport beef up the HX and rear differential from the factory. My suggestion for heat exchanger is you want to save some money/keeps this cost down research Frozen Boost options. A little more tinkering skill required because it takes some more steps to mount it up. Next is the Burger Motorsports HX. They have 2 versions. One is made fully overseas and one is likely pieced together here in the US. $100 more for one made in US, but they are identical in size and function, 299 & 399. I chose the 299.00 version and for the most part I'm happy with it for the price savings. Next is the newest addition to the 3.0t heat exchangers and that is the Mishimoto heat exchanger. I am a fan of Mishimoto. They do extensive test and research developing their products and they do what they are designed to do. $528 right now. Another option maybe worth looking at in PLM (private label MFG). Less people have these but seems like a good option still and costs right now $495.00. Lastly, the premium HX because of cost, name and their development/experience with the 3.0t motor is AMS heat exchanger. It costs $799 but sets the benchmark. In short, all of these options are going to out perform the inferior and anemic factory unit. It just depends on how much $ you want to invest in the game. I don't believe the actually cooling ability between all of these will be that much different but the Mishimoto, PLM and AMS will likely have some small advantages. If you want the best then that costs more. AMS parts also give you cool points and bragging rights. These blowoff valves you hear mentioned buy many don't deal with any cooling ability or gain you any speed or performance gain. They just do not. I don't run them were for some cars it's more about the turbo blowoff sound they produce like in the movie such as the Fast and the Furious series. Some turbo cars need then because of age, configuration or the very large hp numbers they produce but these cars don't come with them from the factory. Adding 100-140hp doesn't change that. Plus they cost $600 per the kit. To properly run BOV's ones car should be tuned for them but either way they won't hurt or help this auto transmission, VR30 motor. Lots of debate but most professions in the Automotive Industry that know the Q50-Q60 will repeat they are widely used for the sound they produce. It just makes many people giddy. If you buy one of these 3.0t's new get a oil catch can, Mishimoto brand, get a CBE (catalytic converter back exhaust system to see a marginal hp gain and sound increase), new tires for increase in traction and mostly ride quality & less sound, wheels if that makes you happy. If you want to jump into waking the motor up then there's the Burger Motorsports JB4 boost controller and ultimately the ECU tuning. JB4 $500-650. Tuning the ECU ranges now from $700 to 1,700 depending on company. AMS Performance is the most expensive but appears to be the most hands on with the actual 3.0t motor and ECU.
@@DV8N1 also, the turbos recieve oil from the motor as lubrication so if running the car with elevated oil temps and then you shut the motor off, the oil stops flowing. Also same with the coolant for the car. Running it for thirty seconds to minute to 2 minutes additionally at idel just allows a saftey factory. In the performance cars back likely in 70 up to the 90's people bought what's called a electronic turbo timer and install on their turbo cars. Look that up to read more about it. In one of my videos I discuss me opening my hood after driving when it really hot outside where I notice all my temps on the hot side. I park my car in a closed garage to when the garage door shuts no airflow. Good closed just allows the under the hood contents to stay really hot for many more hours including the turbos. Parked outside then more natural airflow but it's what track racers do to cool down their motors.
@@GettingthruLife These are outstandingly thorough responses!! Anyone reading, please upvote original thread to share increase awareness! Thank you very, very much in the time taken to be so thorough! I, as many others I'm sure, would greatly appreciate a video quickly reiterating this valuable information and suggestions. Can only imagine you have at least one already uploaded.. Thank you again! Very recently got a Q50 and want to care and respectfully push the car. Your insight is invaluable.
I have owned a 2017 Q60 Red Sport AWD since 2016. Just had both turbos and engine replaced @ 33k miles under factory powertrain warranty due to one turbo whistling under boost, caused by a failed bearing that allowed the impeller to contact the compressor housing. Engine replaced since the turbo failure could introduce metallic bits into the intake side of the engine. Other Q50/Q60 owners w/3.0t have experienced porous engine block issues - the symptom is disappearing coolant, overheating, and/or white smoke from the exhaust when engine is warmed up. Oil analysis will confirm elevated levels of Potassium and/or Sodium in the oil. The only fix is a "long-block" replacement, where the engine core is replaced at the dealership.
This is known to be problematic in the 16,, 17 and some 18' engines. Hopefully, I'm supposed to be better off. Someday I should send my oil sample in for analysis to be in the know. My radiator coolant level stays consistent.
@Tre Reese it not to bad. 2016 to some 2018 can encounter porous blocks. Maybe has to do with heat cycles over time or environmental related. Ford with their 2018-19 mustang 5.0 had the cylinder wall plating issue. Most Q50-60 fixed under warranty. With that said, I really don't want my car to need to be repaired. 2019 to 2023 models likely have this issue resolved.
I like to respond to people. I read every single comment, even the bad and mean one's. When I personally post comments on others videos, rarely/almost never get a response. I male the time to do it.
I still really enjoy mine after 3 years. Usually I get bored in 2 years and want to get something else but this car is just over the top for value, looks and overall feel/ride. These cars do have a bad rep for turbo failure but I think a fair portion of that came do to how well it was maintained and how hard it was used.
One thing people have to consider is that this is the 2020 Nissan Skyline over in Japan, and they offer this engine in two specs. 1: A 300hp version like ours 2: A 400hp version that's basically just tuned. Plus this is the motor that they most likely are going to put in the new "400z", but they will use the 400hp tune version. That means that this engine is going to be way more popular, and have a much bigger community of people pushing it to the limits and finding weak spots. Good video btw (:
For the last 5 years since the 3.0t we've had the 400hp model as well. It's been the Q50-Q60 Red Sport 400. The only main difference to get the jump in power is the ECU tuning difference as well. For the most part people have found the hp and tq ceiling for this stock motor and 7 speed Infiniti transmission. The motor and trans can hold realistically up to 625-650 motor hp and 700 tq!. Yep, when the Nissan 400z and Nismo maybe 25 more hp version comes out then there will be more options and aftermarket support. Hopefully parts get lesser expensive as of now AMS Performance controls and sets the market with high markup on their performance upgrade parts. Z1 is better in this aspect but limited development for now.
I think it’s important to remember here….this car had only 7,000 miles at the time the video was recorded, so I place very little confidence in the claim by the owner that it is a “reliable” car.
Nope, 100% reliable so far 3 plus years 23k. Low miles because covid. I prefer to keep low miles and not drive a vehicle into excessive milage per a year if possible. Only thing I do is change oil 5-6k mileage. First oil change was at 600 Miles before I ecutek tuned my car 93 octane.been tuned to approx 435-440 rwhp and 500plus torque per dynojet Dec 2019.
I had a brand new 2014 Ford Focus ST (top trim level ST3) and in the first year I had 2 recalls tsb, an oil leak that could never be stopped (took it in 5 times to 3 different dealerships), high pressure fuel pump issue, and a coolant leak that sent the car into overheat/limp mode highway while I was traveling out of my city in a low populated area. I found a old milk container jug had to fill it with water every 10-12 minutes and fill radiator. All this under 10k miles. 2 new Nissan frontier crew cabs after that focus ST, 20-22k miles each no issues for both trucks. 3 nissan vehicles 7 years, excellent reliability. Cant say that fir other brands even bought new.
Bought a 2018 VR30 $24,000 24,000 miles. got the unlimited miles warranty, no issues all highway miles and stay on top of preventative maintenance. had a bad wheel bearing and the dealer fixed it no charge. long story short get the warranty. directly through Infiniti , they have been great to me
My car 2019 is worth about 32k with my mileage and my lease in 2 month my buyout is 23k. Established price in 2019 market. I love my car but I get bored very easily and usually want something else after 2 years. This Q50 is one of my first vehicles that if I trade/turned in I'd be stupid and miss this car. I rent a bunch of other vehicles and I can't wait to get back driving my car.
Infiniti and Nissan really one of the same. I'd buy there a million times over from a roadside sales lot. Their warranty has you covered. Just get in writing and signed by gm/sales manager.
Great perspective!! I really appreciate what folks like your self are doing for this platform as far giving your input and suggestions. I own a 2016 used ss 3.0t and have yet to experience any problems with the turbos or anything related to the drive train. I am completely stock and thanks to warnings from yourself and others I think im pretty content with stock the car is still fun
These are very fun cars with 300 whp. Hopefully I can dodge any mechanical issues since I tuned the ecu. I don't get to race many others but I'd like to think I'll get in some situations here one day with some GT 5.0's or dodge 392's. Now I finally have the traction I need with my upgraded Nitto NT555RII's. Good traction is a game changer.
Late to the party, but specifically for the 2016-2017 model years, the turbos and water pump tend to fail a bit more than the 2018+ model years. If you're not planning on modifying your VR30 engine, definitely consider adding the additional factory warranty. It will save you THOUSANDS in costs, if/when something finally snaps.
extended warranty is good and as I have seen ICPO warranty is very good. You pay more but almost always end up with a better car. Infiniti's bought at other dealerships with warranty most the time not nearly as good as buying from Infiniti and no auction cars. Needs to have good and documented history in the Infiniti database. So sos so so many cars are bought at auction where almost nothing is known about the cars. Buying cars now from the wrong person just got more troublesome because of the hurricanes and flooding across the U.S. because many of those cars will be restored/not documented flood/salvage and sold as casual used. Electrical gremlins down the road and failed seals. I saw a show/internet documentary a hundred plus thousand 1 to 5 year old cars underwater fresh and salt water last 1.5 year.
Thanks for making great video like this. I like your thought process on all the parts you put on your car, not just because everyone else put on their car. You review parts more intense like what it does, why, gains/benefits of it, why and such. I've never buy brand new car in my life and hope never will. I don't believe in buying new car. I been looking at Q50/Q60 ever since they come out back in 2016 and finally got me q50 back in February of this year with approximately 6 month of bumper to bumper and 3yr 30K powertrain warranty left. I paid 23K out the door with 31K miles on the odometer. My thought on this was what would it break on the car that would cost 25 thousand dollar plus to fix with 30K miles and 3 year left to for the power train warranty. Another reason I don't want New car is because i don't like to deal with the dealer with warranty work and other stuff. I get panic even when I have to take it in for yearly state inspection. After I bought the car I don't like anyone touch my car unless absolutely have too. They build the car now a day with all the fail safe built in the vehicle system control. It's almost impossible for normal folks to break anything. The car computer won't let you put in wrong gear proper rpm range, won't run full boost without all the parameters are within specified range like oil and water temperature, etc.
Thanks for the positive reinforcement. Sometimes it's difficult to make videos because it can be kind of difficult and easy to screw up. What is in my head, (my vision for the video), doesn't always translate into the videos smoothly. There's away a ton of things to be improved. I'm just not as quick thinking and witty as I was in my 30 and early 40's. getting old does have many disadvantages. Many times buying a used vehicle makes very good sense like I bought a pre-owned 2002 Ford Taurus SE from a dealership around 2007-2008. With that stated you got to really feel out that purchase and see if it's everything it looks like after the dealership has done what they can to polish it up. Pretty amazing what the folks that recondition these cars can do. I worked at a big dealership here in Dallas as the photographer so I was involved in these processes as soon as the auction cars/trade-in cars showed up. My 2002 Taurus, 32K miles was a fairly good car minus a motor-related drivetrain fault 10,000 miles later that cost me $850. Fixed in a day and a half but 850 was a lot of money cash out of my pocket. Then the transmission went out at 90,000 and left me stranded where the 150 tow and hundreds of dollars storage and then the $4-4,500 to replace it was to much for me at the time. Traded it into ford for chump change even though the car, in general, looked amazing-like a new one minus the tranny failure. Someone that knew what they were doing (I didn't) likely bought that car at an auction for 1K and was able to buy a decent rebuilt replacement transmission and install it for nothing in their re-conditioning shop. Around here, in the real world people's property gets treated pretty harshly. Not everything is treated harshly and abused but most is. There is a skill to see thru the bad and discover the good or it can really come back to bite people. Transmission repair/labor $4,000-5,000, replacement motor $5-7,000, airconditioner heater core or other related fixes $500 to $3,000, turbo failure $4,000-6,000, accident frame damage, under-paint body damage $2,000-$5000, or undercarriage/suspension damage. All hard to spot with the eye and even on test drives. I am very particular too as people can likely tell from my videos. I hate taking a new car back to the dealerships for warranty work because they don't treat my property the same way I do. I've got plenty of personal, jacked-up stories to tell about my vehicles coming back from dealership repair(cough Ford). That's why I mention being hesitant about taking my Q50 back to Infiniti to have them address the rattle in my headliner with my sunroof. I'd get it back and almost for sure see miss-fitment issues, new scratches, dirty hand print stains into the fabric, and likely tool marks left. Things like that drive me nuts so if I can't fix it myself then I will likely live with it. Example: one of my new Volkswagon Jetta's 2.0T, had a issue with a part of one of the rear leather seats. They fixed it but it didn't look anything like when it was new from the factory condition. It looked like crap to me/an otherwise senseless job to them but it was what it was. You are right. To a degree, cars today protect themselves but with that said look at the popular Q60 youtuber that damaged his motor because he ran it low on oil. He never came out and disclosed he ruined his car's motor but I dug into the internet and found out along with other failures. He had to have it all replaced and the reason why he drove 3 hrs to Austin Infiniti because they replaced it under warranty even though the owner was clearly at fault and it was documented he was tuned and running e-85. That was a $7,000 to 10,000 mistake. There is no way on God's green earth that I would want to buy into a couple of these Q50-Q60 youtubers cars when their lease is over or they trade in their cars to be resold. Someone can come back and say that about me too but I go to great lengths and effort to make sure my car is babied, respected, garage kept, fully detailed each week, its interior is always spotless and fluids are changed based on use and not time tables. Thanks for reaching out to me! Would be super cool to meet with all these different people and have some fun with our cars and share stories and experiences.
@@GettingthruLife Wow you really had bad luck on that Taurus. The main key in buying a used car is to buy one that still have some factory warranty still left like my current 2016 Q50, which will be expire in about 3 month, but I already done quiet a few mods to where it would be hard for them to honor that warranty. As soon as I got it, I drove the crap out of it every chance I got to see if it would break while the warranty is still left. You are right, it can get really expensive if you get a bad one and no warranty left in it. And another important thing for buying a used car is to do a lot of research about the particular car make and model. Read car complaints to see what is common issue they have on the particular and know what to look for when buying a car. Such as look at screws, bolts to see if it been disturb or been modified, oil in the coolant, etc. The sells man thought I was crazy when I asked him "Did this bolt factory marked line is off", hehehe. And most important one is don't buy the car that come from the North where there are snow and use salt on the road. But this can be easily spot if you look at the exhaust pipe and muffler. The muffler will rust in days if it been driven in the salted snow. Of course make sure the nut and bolt are not been disturb. My 14 years old C6 Corvette I bought it used at 40K miles even though with supercharger on and added over 200hp plus about 8 years ago still running like a champ. And my 2012 tundra bought it at 70K miles on the odometer still run without skipping heart beat. Non of these car has seen the shop or dealer as long as I've process other than yearly smoke test and tires and alignment. I still got unresolved recall on C6 for 3 years now have not taken to the dealer yet. Keep it up, you are doing great. Slow but effective. Your information are better than 90% of other channel I've seen. A lot of them are non sense but entertaining I guess. Thanks
@@zkyzork I liked that ford taurus. It had factory warranty left as it was a ford certified vehicle but the warranty didn't cover that part. I think it was cam chain adjuster or something like that. When I bought it I didn't have to think who own this before me and what did they do to make it faster and more unreliable. I actually put in a full stereo system speakers, amps, subs, head unit, door speakers and rear deck speakers. I can honestly say I did a good install but wasn't as tight as when it left the factory. I had to pull out/cut the door liner plastic seal for one and that allowed moisture to get past those protective barriers. Just one of the handful of things I compromised. Also, I remember my alternator going out where I was left high and dry because older car. had to get it towed to repair shop and a major pain in the ass. When cars go out of warranty that's when things break. Maybe the reason why I buy new and sell/trade when the warranty is near expiring. I negotiate so I don't lose much money versus the convenience factor and reassurance.
I currently own q60 red sport 2020 awd with currently have 17k miles on it. This is my 3rd infiniti. I used to own. G35 2006 awd sedan and g37 2008 coupe. Never have had any kind of issues. Only got scheduled oil changes, break pads, and tires. Other than that never spent any money on anything ☺
I myself never looked at Infiniti either for performance but I really want a RWD performance sedan and unfortunately there isn’t many to choose from anymore! After looking at my options I think the Q50’s are awesome thanks for the video!
The other performance sedan options like BMW are outrageous in prices and seem to have reliability areas too but are strarting 50k even used. The Q50-60's were at the time when I leased mine, 2019, a phenomenal deal and why I leased with the option to buy. Now i bought it and end up saving money in todays upside down, crazy vehicle market. My car since I bought it new and where I've personally taken care of it with frequent oil changes and its been treated as a valued asset, it's been great and still looks and feel near new. The first few week I installed tge Mishimoto oil catch can. A big deal because limits the buildup of carbonized oil deposits in intake valves. Only takes 10k miles of blowby to junk up those valves from flowing properly. The downside of the Infiniti Q50-60 is the popularity of the JB4 boost controller, people removing their catalytic converters without the proper tuning and the there is the blow off valve addiction which needs ecu adjustment to have the car function with them. All these three things, plus some early fuel modding has lead to a lot of these cars having issues and then blamed on factory reliability. This is why the Infiniti Q50 has a bad wrap online but owners play a big part in the problem. Thing is when buying one of these vr30 engines is you want one that's never been molested and treated as jb4 boost vehicle was cats removed damaging tge turbos over time.
Or even better the Lexus IS 500F v8 sedan. But those would be rare to find used and prob still 50-55k. The Q50's with 3.0 twin-turbo are a good value package if you can find a healthy/well cared for 2019-2021.
Thank you for the Info man!! I’m Shopping for a Q50 right now but I’m Stuck I don’t know what to do, buy a red sport Or the premium Model. I for sure want the 3.0 though
I think the 3.0T is the forsure choice. A Red Sport sure would be Good! I am racing a un untuned Red Sport in the early A.M. today with full boltons and 93 fuel. Video hopefully to come if everything goes good and I make it back home in one piece.
That's awesome. Thanks for sharing your your experience. A little racing from time to time is fun. I'm never going the same direction as other cars I'd like to have a go at. Also not ever good moments to do a u-turn. I ran across a loud newest gen camaro today but he turned down onto a neighborhood street when I caught up to it. Also a loud 392 charger with some sharp looking wheels a few days ago but in heavy traffic and congested area.
4yrs ago and he's still replying to comments. . .legend . btw I'm thinking of getting my first car. have options for pre-owned 20 21 22 and 23 models . .which would you recommend ?
I would say the one that's in the best shape, best records, best history per what you are willing to pay. Pay more for a better car up front and then likely less chance you get a car with pre-existing issues.
Or I say many young folks in their 20-30 y.o. range. Just depends on the individual. These Infiniti cars are sought after to modify which means suspension, lowering and chambered tweaked and raspy loud exhausts. Once a car's suspension is taken all out of wack and driven on it, no thanks on your life do I want it. A lot of used cars/tuner cars have damage that may be hard to see or discover until after you buy it.
Looking at getting a 2018 q60. Turbo issues for sure scare me. My friends q50 3.0t alr went thru 2 sets of turbo’s & 1 motor under warranty. Fbo tuned. 50k miles
Did the car always have cattless downpipes without a proper tune before your friend bought the car? Did the car have blowoff valves without proper tuning for extended time? Did your friend have a JB4 before actually tuned or the owner before have these part? Who was the tuner? Those parts I firmly believe contribute to turbo failures when these cars are not properly tuned. Then people add CBE as well with cattless operation and compound the problems. A lot of people who buy these cars go to the internet and hear others talk about got to have catless lower//full dps, CBE and blowoff valves. Adding these things can contribute to turbo and issues without proper tuning from one of the experience and trusted tuners.
Also did your friend change his oil every 5k mileage or more like 10-11k mileage? Did he always keep an eye on his fluid levels? Did/does your friend mistreat his car and do things like smoky donuts in the parking lots or bash on it hard everytime his foot hits the pedal? Lots of things can contribute to how a car runs and performs over time. If you buy into a good vr30 that was taken care of plus when you get it you take care of it, then less chance of future problems and headaches.
@@GettingthruLife actually he got the car with 20k miles, did basic bolt ons, got tuned by z1. Had problems with the z1 tune. So he switched to Martin at RS. Just regular down pipes. Lower I should say. He eventually added turbo smart BOV kit from CZP
Thanks...I feel ive aged more last 3 years much quicker. I've always been told I look really young so maybe that's a part of why I grew facial hair. Used to be a full, much longer beard but I get mistaken for a homeless person. Last few years my eye sight took a dive, my cardio took a dive and my resistance to heat went bye bye. Good things is I'm on no medications, no recreational drugs and no alcohol and life's still good.
You did this right.. Glad to see someone that looks at modding a car for more reliability. Milage? Having a tune didn't bother voiding warranty that if something happened it could cause engine damage
Thanks for the info and video. I have a 2016 Q50RS that is nearly full bolt-on. I'm scheduled to take it to Z-1 Motorsports at the end of this month to have full AMS aluminum drive shaft, full down pipes, BOVs, and AMS expansion tank installed. They are also going to dyno and tune it. Also recently had a water pump and both turbos replaced under warranty. Was wondering what your thoughts are on the new solid state transmission mounts that folks have just started installing on their Qs. Supposedly reduces drivetrain loss and shifts are firmer. But saw another comment on a forum that suggested that the solid mount vs the OEM one that contains a bushing may lead to stress fractures in the transmission housing or other unintended issues. Thanks again.
There's always more to be said, a better way to say it or that I could try to go into but the video gets long and people complain (I understand). Making videos can be tough. Yeah, your cars sounds fast right now not to mention when you get all those other go-fast goodies installed. I can't even come close to putting my current power down so until I can I'm just going to focus on getting good rear tires/drag radials. I'm hoping these Nitto NT555RII drag radials are the answer to my lack of traction. Knowing my luck, I will still spin and be out another $700 for two tires and install/balance. I am also thinking AMS driveshaft or similar because I don't want to have the factory DS fail and then damage the underside of the car when/if it breaks. I can see it now (should have, would have, could have). I'm also interested in the in the fender AMS expansion tank or waiting for someone to come out with a heavy duty, plastic built tank like the current oem reservoir tanks. Save a couple $100. Also, I have been thinking even before "boost in motion", the chiller killer device. There are people here on different cars, 5.0's, Dodge 392 and hellcats 6.2 running them. the ultimate in IAT cooling. This is all down the road for me and depending on money and seeing these troubling times. As far as firming up the transmission mounts and even the motor mounts that would be taking it over the top for me. Any sort of comfort and ride quality goes out the window. I installed the Boomba Racing brand aftermarket rear motor mount in my Focus ST and for a month I was like holy freaking cow. It killed the comfort level but that all depends on what you want to accomplish and what you are will to live with to achieve your goals. There were people that also went firm engine mounts and that would have blown my mind and drove me insane driving that around daily. Now if purely a race/track vehicle then a whole different story. With my Z1 motorsports bushing collars installed, there are some times depending on the road were I wish I could revert back to Infiniti's ultra plush, full-floating rear subframe bushings but its not a deal killer. I can only bet/assume that taking away the movement/flex of the transmission would make for a bunch of NVH but should add the performance aspect. All up to you...let me know if you get this and what you thoughts are.
I found a 2017 Q60 for 15.2k with 134k miles would you think this car still have a lot of life left? Lets say the owner took amazing care of it what is your opinion?
do your research and do-diligence to verify the car is in the usable condition you expect it to be. I have years of seeing comments, experiences, situations that buyer get into and it doesnt turn out well or how they expected. Pays huge benefits to buy a 3.0T/infiniti that's been looked after. Twin turbo V6's are good when healthy but abused and neglected v6 turbo engines can be a disappointment. Obviously reason why good ones are more expensive then the neglected ones. Steer clear of auction bought, shady title, reconditioned, salvage title unless you are ready for added expenses.
I here ya. Here in Dallas in 2018-2019 it was nearly impossible to find 392's at any of the dealerships. The 5.7's and V6 were all over the place. I could tell jacked up stories from the 7-8 dealerships I called and visited from North, west, east and south. The dealership down the street from me quoted the only way you could drive a 392 charger or challenger is to do the paperwork and then commit to buying it/be pre approved financing then you can drive to see if you like. It was an awful experience shopping at Dodge and Ford. There is about 6-7 months when it can feel good to flip on the heated seats and steering wheel but I hear what you are saying. The air cooled seat would be nice to have/try. I've not owned a car or a truck with air vented seats. That what really sucks about the southern, central states...it gets 19 to 25 degrees cold and then freakishly hot. No break from one, suffer thru both.
I'd stay far away from those unless you can afford problems and unknowns. Sane for auction cars. No there a flood cars more than ever going around with no documentation of water/salt water damage.
This is what i am saying, literally looking at q50s RS awd rn and ofc all of them are rebuilt but you gotta pick from the best ones and actually take a look of them IRL + pay or get someone who knows cars and may have second "unbiased" opinion on the car and go from there!. Going to take a look at 3 next week up in Florida. As in Massachusets all of them are from NY and rebuilt titles or just BEAT ON cars, went tru 5+ winters with salts and etc.
Turbos have been updated '19 plus models so more of a 16-18 year model shortcoming. The one serpentine belt seems to only last about 30K miles so it's a no-brainer to keep an eye on it around that time plus if an unusual noise coming from that area then a good idea to change before it breaks and causes other damage.
or better yet if you dont vibe with my style then don't watch. Video was not based on your sole needs and expectations. (try making your own video/s and see what the whole process is like) Biggest complainers are people with zero content of their own, you are just one out of hundreds of examples)
@@GettingthruLife relax homie That was content criticism and you should listen to criticism if you want to improve your content I didn’t mean any hate with my comment you could’ve used many cut in the video to make it more energetic I don’t think your watch time on this video was good at all+ this my Side job I edit video for successful RUclipsrs 100 thieves e sports Miniminter clips Tbjzl Sentinel’s Team liquid valorant And many more that I cant disclose because of confidential reasons All I wanted was to see if q50 was reliable to buy one for my sister and your video bored me out hope you can take this as criticism and improve from it. Respect
My videos are not an advertisement, a sponsored video or a professional presentation. I makes videos for pure fun whether it's 10 people watching or 20,000. I am more likely to accept ideas and critiques from an individual that walk a similar path, like tries themselves to make video content. If you had videos of your own and you put the time in doing so, then you would definitely be less vocal and more understanding. Videos for many are story telling were not everybodies going to vibe with the story. Common sense then says move on. I do my best to get to the point and make good, the best content but not everthing works out like you see it in your head. If you made videos and spent hours editing and uploading then you'd get it.
99.8 percent of youtubers don't respond to viewers but I feel obligated many times. Apart of the youtube experience. Car/vehicle related content brings with it many harsh and critical viewers. Also, firearm cobtent viewers are their own breed too. Making videos is fun and rewarding but some people tend to suck the fun/enjoyment out of the experience.
I am looking to buy a 2017 Q50 with around 30-40k miles from a dealership . Would this car be good with a cat back exhaust and just intakes I live in Miami so its around 85-90 everyday.
Hey Niko...If you like the looks of this car and the interior meets your needs then get it. I really love my '19 Q50 which is essentially the same car as the 2017 3.0T. The car runs great in 20 degree weather up to 110 degree outside temps so don't worry. The concern with the heat is when it comes to drag racing the car and have it be as fast as it has the potential to go. Turning up the boost past the RS 400 is when temps become a bigger issue. These Q50-Q60 3.0T's will easily handle your favorite CBE, wheels, AMS intake kit but just always run 92-93 octane fuel. If buying from the dealership just ask questions like do they know the owner who traded in the car? Did they buy this car from an auction? Was it a lease turn in? Do they have any "in the computer -Infiniti- maintenance records on the car, check the oil dip stick/level/color of oil, drive it for an hour or so around town, make sure the aircon works good, make sure it shift well and in the different shift modes, flip all the buttons, look underneath the car well for abuse/impacts/damage/rough use, check coolant level and heat exchanger level and even better ask to remove the plastic cover that leads to the airboxes and check the filters. If clean good, if grimy/caked with dust and dirt then I'd reconsider the purchase. See what tires are on the car. If replaced with factory runflats you will likely want to replace those first. Exhaust, CBE, is something you can do next but I don't recommend a hacked up exhaust job. Don't fall into the pit of despair and feel you need BOV's to save your car. Save your $600.00. Anyone that knows cars for the lively hood will agree in some way that BOV's are mostly for their fast and furious sound. (These cars didn't come with them for a reason/auto transmission/electronic wastegates and factory tuning calibrations that even carry over to tuned cars) Get them if you love the sound and they make you happy but they add zero performance advantage. Kind of the same story with 3.0T Intakes but I feel they can benefit a ecu tuned car more. Maybe some drop-in, oil-less filters $120.00.
Getting thru Life thanks for the recommendations. I was also looking and they say the heat exchangers are laughable so i was planning on buying a heat and cat back and just keeping it there from performance mods and adding wheels and coilovers later on.
Getting thru Life and throughout your video you said the car is reliable but i’ve had some people tell me it’s not that reliable. But i’m pretty they are saying that to people who aren’t really performing maintenance as they should
@@Niko-sp1rf If you dive deeper into the background of these people, you will likely see that they don't own this car or have little experience with the Infiniti brand. I see all the time, close to 15-18 year old infiniti vehicles driving around where most of these look really good and taken care of and still appear to be very nice vehicles. Has a lot to do with the owner. I know my car doesn't have a lot of miles on it but I've owned other new car with multiple problems that arose in the time that I've owned my '19 Q50. A lot of problems are brought on by improper use and abuse.
@@GettingthruLife yeah the only thing is that I have a heavy foot so I like to step on it a bit like everyone does. But other than that I'm not stepping on it everyday all day its usually like when im with friends or open road.
Depends on many unknown variables to me. Aaking price depending on your budget, condition, user history, who's selling it. I'd likely myself only buy a certified pre-owned Infiniti from a well established Infiniti dealership. As far as market price that depends on this incredibly messed up economy and the monthly changing vehicle industry. The year 2020 was the last year you wouldn't get screwed buy/leasing/finance a vehicle.
I bought a used 2016 Q50 3.0T with 40k miles on it and I'm getting 21.1mpg. I've seen other VR30 owners getting around 15mpg, so it's safe to say the previous owner took somewhat good care of the car right? Only problem I noticed is the hot air blowing down to my feet while driving (I remember talking to you about this on one of your previous videos), someone suggested taking it to my Infiniti dealer to get a bigger Heat Exchanger. hopefully that solves the problem. but other than that, no problems, car is riding smooth
Yes I remember our discussion. Yeah I don't know why hot air is blowing down into the footwells at all times. That happens when I turn the heat on and direct climate control to blow air in that area only. Sounds like an aircon electronic system issue. Also the car's heat exchanger wouldn't have anything to do with hot air blowing into the cabin. The heat exchanger and intercoolers cools the intake compressed air leaving the turbos and then forced into the cylinders. Fixing a climate control part failure could be an easy fix or a very expensive fix with parts with labor. I range about 22-26mpg around town/city but a really congested city in high, high traffic I'm sure that will drop my mpg sitting more at traffic lights. 15 mpg and I be really disappointed and pissed. Mpg's will drop when the intake valves become coated in carbon and oil deposits. Reason to get a oil catch installed while these cars are new to limit any buildup. A car that already has carbon buildup on intake valves needs to have them cleaned and then a guality oil catch can added as prevention.
The key is buy your mods you plan to be running example (downpipes, BOV's, cat-back exhaust, heat exchanger, air box/intake and or fuel system needs) and then budget, spend the money to get tuned within a few months to properly tune the car to make it run well and last. Ecutek software with one of the trusted and respected Infiniti 3.0t tuners for the parts you added. The minimum stuff these cars needs (Q50-60 3.0t), a tune and an upgraded heat exchanger ($400+1,400-1500). These 2 things alone will transform this car from 300-310 whp to 425-430 whp. CBE plus downpipes tuned together get you up a little more 445-450 whp. Catless lower downpipes alone don't add much more hp, sad reality. The key is you also have to have a performance minded cat-back 2.5" to 3" exhaust to match up to those 2.5-3" downpipes to see any real gain plus be tuned to keep turbos running properly and have healthy motor.
I'm 20 and plan on getting a 2017 q60 red sport with 45k miles, is it worth it? Also parts for Infiniti are cheap as well compared to Audi and BMW correct?
I think these Infiniti cars are worth it. If you like the interior, ride quality, the exterior looks/style then the car shouldn't disappoint. Just be aware the car has 45K of someone else's miles and care on it. Do your home work on the car and buy it from a reputable dealership with history of doing and being in business. If you buy it from an individual ask questions like are you the cars first owner? Where did the car come from if you are the second or third owner, maintenance records, ask/pay a dealership to look the car up in their Infiniti records. I hear those others cars are more expensive to maintain and cost more for repairs. Have someone look at that serpentine belt and make sure that's in good condition or been replaced. Your at that mileage mark. Inspect the airfilters and check oil level and color. check that everything works and I mean everything. Touch everything. Lay on your back and look under the car and look for impacts and damage from curbs and debris impacts. make sure exterior panels line up. Look for repainted inner edges of body work(door, hood, truck) to help spot bodywork repairs. Hope this helps. 3.0t motor and added Redsport boost makes for enjoyment.
My biggest concern is reliability. Trying to decide between the infiniti Q50 red sport 400 and the Dodge challenger R/T scat pack or lastly a acura Tlx v6 all 2018 to 2020 model years. Not sure which is best for the price.
Challenger and Q50-60 two different spectrums. I was looking at 2018-19 GT 5.0 10-speed and 392 Chargers before I went in the Infiniti dealership because of my Nissan trucks being financed. The infiniti brand is good, it's just many of the individuals buying these Q50-60's. People messing with the electronics, suspension and cattless downpipes with no proper tune. If people just lefts these cars alone then far less potential failures. Just try to get an unmolested Q50-60 or buy new. All these cars that have had turbo failures are because of the owners. Serpentine belt failure isn't a deal breaker but people just need to be aware at about 30k might need to be replaced and put back on correctly with proper alignment.
I bought my Q50 new and my 2019 Q50 Luxe now has 82k miles. I drive a lot of highway miles. I've had my JB4 since 20k miles or less I can't remember, but I've had no serious issues with the car. I did have a coolant leak issue when it was summer here in California but I used a Barr's stop leak and haven't had a reoccurring issues.
That's so untrue but believe what you want to. You definitely got bad Intel. If you bought a car from a person before you and they didn't take care of it or they put on downpipes, blowoff valves and JB4 without proper tuning then they shortened the life of the turbos. Must have a proper tune from a reputable tuner if you modify boost parameters or remove catalytic converters or add blowoff valves so the ecm can be calibrated..
I hate reviews that are made with cars with low miles that doesn't help & from what I understood u don't really drive it cause u don't want wear & tear on it so what's the point of the review
Hey retardt, I have other videos with additional years of driving this car. I cant make everyone happy so you hate it, click off and dont watch, move on is what i revommend. .You just clicked on one video of mine. I have 175 video i recall on this one car.on a side note I have been driving 37 years and had other new cars where I didnt drive them into the ground either and they have had failures, issues and recall/tsb one after tge other. All under 10-15k miles. This car has had zero in 22k miles. If you don't want to believe my experience, judgement or opinion since I own and use since 2019 then don't get a Infiniti Q50-60. It doesn't matter to me. My Q50 is the best car I've ever owned or out of 50 new cars I've rented over the last 3 years for travel and work. Online professional youtube channels that review cars short/long term don't put 35-50k miles on a car and review them and share their advice on their owership/reliability experiences. Most are held onto and driven for 10,000 miles.
Hello, ive been looking into buying a 2020 Q50 Red Sport and just wanted to know how long you owned this car for or do you still own it and if so, how has it treated you in terms of long term reliability? How many miles have you put on it? Just seeing a lot of turbo failure horror stories and not really seeing any of these for sale over 90k miles, which has me worried its not that reliable as I've been wanting to upgrade to a newer daily driver (I average about 12-14k a year). Great video btw, very informative
@mynameed7720 I had my car almost 5 yrs. I didn't like to put excessive miles on it and I had other transportation. Driving a vehicke high mileage and putting wear and tear happens with excessive miles. More opportunitiesfor accidents, rick chips, door dings, hail, worn out tires, bent wheels, worn outsuspebsiin, potholes... I liked mine to be mint looking and feeling. Most of the new cars with smaller displacment motors and turbos to maje up power loss, plus all comptuteted controlled are not realisticly 150-200k mile cars. I loved my car bought new. Buying used means you are buying into what the 1 or 2nd owner didn't do and how the treated it. Many many, many people don't change their oil and drive 25k, 30k even up to 40k. Ruibs the motor and turbos. These motors and turbos need oil changes every 5-6k mileage. If you are looking to buy a used 35-50k mileage Q50 3.0t and plan on puting 15-20k miles a year and plan on keeping another 5-7 years, then I'd look elsewhere. I'd say if you bought new and planned on driving next 5-6years then definitely the car would be great. Under warranty 6 yr drive train and 4 yr general warranty. Many Many Many people lease these as I did, but they do very little if at all to take care of them. I loved mine so much I bought mine when 3 yr lease was up. In short the jerk people, they use up the car in 3 yrs and then hand them off scott free and the next person buys into the neglected car. That's why so many people have issues. Most people buying these and are online and talking about them, they bought them used and bought crappy cars. Talk to people who bought new and they did their maintance and they valued and loved their Q50, you will see a much different ownership experience and see a much better car.
@@GettingthruLife Thankyou for your detailed response! The Q50's I've been looking at are at around that 30k miles, 1-2 owner mark, I have a range for price of roughly $30k and I always try to see the service record provided on those listings. I would definitely be using this as a daily driver (about a 22 mile commute to my work and 22 miles from my work to home all highway miles). Would definitely buy a bumper to bumper warranty if I purchased a Q50, I just love the styling on these cars 😁 thankyou again for your response
@mynameed7720 Get a genuine infiniti warranty and not a 3rd party extended warranty. A 2020 will still have some powertrain/ full engine and turbo coverage.
I keep hearing you can’t drive these cars hard or you’ll blow a turbo what do you think is replacing a turbo gonna be something I have to do right away ?
Most people buy these cars used from somebody else and have no clue how it was driven, kept, wrecked, proper repairs made, maintenance done so you can get get an unloved car/performance oriented, turbo engine this way. It's the nature if the beast. If I were going to buy a 5.0, 392, Hellas, corvette, Camaro, Supra, M2/3/4...I'd be pretty picky. Since it's a sizable investment, I'd likely buy my used Q50-Q60 from a reputable dealership who offers CPO or other options with warranty or extended warranty. Just look at yourubers/Facebook who moddded their cars improperly/sort of properly from the repair shop around the corner and them wore their cars down/out after 35-45k on odometer and developed mechanical issues. They turn around and sell/trade back in/ get out of lease and then pass on the problems to the unknown new buyer.
@@GettingthruLife so your saying q50 are reliable ? And a q50 is still an investment for me at least 30 k is a big buy for me to have problems down the road you know
@@Deadmatt777 if you find one that's not seriously tagged on, modded incorrectly, fluids need to have been maintained. Hard to do with a used car with 25-40,000 miles already on it. My car I have written down and dated my oil changes in the back of the manual. Changed every 4k or abouts because there were times I raced the car on a variety of occasions. Adult owned, one owner, garage kept is an indication that a car might have been taken better care of. Run these cars low on oil and you don't just hurt/hamper the engine, you hurt the two turbos. One YT Q60 owner ran his car with low oil and had to have his motor replaced if I'm not mistaken. Buy a Certified pre-owned car is my advice. Pay more now but serious piece of mind is worth a price. Heck yah, 10k, 20k and 30k is all investment money. Moment doesn't grow on a tree for me or Line my pockets. Bottoming, need to buy the right car/vehicle...do your homework. Ask a bunch of questions and look for documentation.
@@Deadmatt777 I've had my car bought new, almost now 3 years. Two years ecutek tuned 19-20 psi and I've had zero issue. 5 years from now will I be able to say that if I still have this car, I don't tell the future. In my opinion, if you buy/get a healthy car and you take care of it too, then it's highly likely to be a reliable car. You abuse it and don't maintain it then likely with medium to higher mileage on it, it won't be a good vehicle. Always try to buy as an unmolested vehicle as possible, because the more owners mess with the factory package the more problems down the road. Not all labor, installs and Uninstaller on the same level.
I read online on the turbo life span being 100k And if you drive harder it will break sooner? So if I get a 60k miles q50 I’ll be stuck with a turbo replacement by 75k
I don't know if that's the rules of thumb to live by. 2016 to 2918 turbos are not as stout as 2019 and newer as there was a revision/update. My word if advice Stat away from JB4 and if you are buying a higher mileage 3.0t than tuning to higher boost levels may mean replacing turbos sooner.
Who tuned ur car? My old g37 FBO was tuned by Vinny Ten racing then admin tuning then Eugene Turkov on ecutek. Wonder who was your tuner. Enjoy the beautiful car
At first got the car tuned by Joteck Motorsports Dallas/Garland TX because close, local and they tune many high end turbo cars. Anyway, they did a subpar job because Infiniti 3.0t not their cup of tea. I contacted Hussain at Racebox over a year ago and had him tune my car with 93 octane and basically 2.5 CBE.
@@emmanuelmartinez5588 At 3000k miles I got my car tuned at a controversial premiere import shop here in Dallas, Tx. I have a map that has hp at 510 and Tq at 513. I don't use that map currently. I opt to use the 470 hp (at motor) map and 510 tq map. My intentions are not to not over stress the motor where I'm also not running the car ultra-hard in race-like conditions for long periods of time. I have my all my CAT's for emissions and the stock downpipes for warranty purposes. I'm sticking with regular gas 93 octane where the 500hp and torque is my limit while trying to keep my car running and driving daily. This car Q50 and Q60 should be still capable to hold together at slightly higher numbers than the Redsport model which I am at. Anything more and one should start looking to add tougher driveshaft, axles, and transmission and then even beefier turbos for more reliability and performance.
@@emmanuelmartinez5588 I'm only partially knowledgeable. I look at a lot of stuff online. I try to be accurate but sometimes maybe I don't have something right. I come out and say I'm sorry I got it wrong if I do.
Hey Bryan how are you , I 1:20 have a quick question, I noticed my q60 have a lil whit smoke from my muffler delete . What do you think it may be , is this a sign of turbo failure
@torvarrisevans9334 Questions to ask, did you buy your car new? Buying used/pre-owned leaves a lot of unknowns. V6 turbo engines need more care and attention. It pretty much all the new engines. Have you kept up with oil changes? Have you not allowed your car to run low on oil? Have you been keeping hx/radiator coolant fluid at proper levels? I found it hard to tell what was going out my exhaust due to different weather, different temps between months, different weight oil used 0w-20 vs 5w-30, fresh morning start vs afternoon start, cold start vs warmed up start... Ultimately, for best and most accurate diagnosis, I'd set up an appointment at Infiniti to get their certified advice. One way I think that will give you an idea if your car has a big issue is that your fluids, oil and or coolant, is disappearing or needing to be topped off more often. If your fluids are/have been stay pretty consistent and you have been changing your oil every 5-6k then less likely to have issues. If you bought a pre-owned car with 30+ miles then damage could have been done before you bought it. Many, many people don't change their oil and they can run their car low on oil.
@@GettingthruLife ok thank you Bryan , unfortunately I bought it pre owned I live in the Bahamas. No warranty. What are the signs of a failing turbo seal or turbo. I didn’t notice no lost of coolant or anything thing . But I only have a muffler delete and I noticed lil smoke at idle but not while driving.
@torvarrisevans9334 Wow, live in the Bahamas, nice. Oil seal leak on a turbo is a possibility. If so, it means a new, used or a reconditioned turbo or turbos is in your future. Is oil level dropping on your dipstick per a month? Do you see More than usual dirty residue on exhaust tips? My car over a few months would dirty up my chrome Magnaflow inner tips. If it's a normal 80 dgree day and your car is emitting clearly white/grey smoke then something more is going on. I would think it would steadily emit smoke not just at startup. Most cars smoke a little more at startup. Also, it could be oil slipping past a piston ring or rings from excessive wear on the cylinder walls. Caused by oil problems or low oil or worn out oil. Really, the only way to know is to tear into the motor, get a close look at the turbos or use a borescope and look into the cylinders through sparkplug holes. Maybe after driving, smell for burnt oil smell under the hood. Loss of oil on your lipstick could also show losing oil. I'm not 100% sure about this but you could pull you airboxes and coupler tube's that connect right up to the turbo inlet and look for possible oil residue on the impeller. If a seal is leaking into the exhaust side of the turbo then possible leaking into the intake side. (It does require about 2hrs time and long socket extension helps plus swival joint to do.) One aspect of replacement is there are a few different bolt-on aftermarket turbo options RT/Z1 motorsports/ second hand salvage theu internet. Just don't want to get to the point that metal shards and small pieces of metal could be sent into the motor from impeller wear or wobble. Only good way to know for more certain is have a good mechanic shop or better yet infiniti dealership investigate. Better to catch sooner than later.
@@GettingthruLife thank you Bryan I appreciate the advice. I will a machanic shop to check it out because it only happens at idle , just a little bit of smoke if you rev it up
Sounds like a good deal. For 23,245 in today's used market place. Who's selling the car? A rental car can mean it wasn't loved on. I drive rental cars all the time and tire pressures are way off like my last one 55 pounds of air in front tire and 31 in tge other 3. Also I see oil changes that are way over due according to the maintenance stickers. Many people just don't respect things, all things they touch. Bust thing to do if you like this car, the inside as well as outside, check key items: radiator fill tank level, heat exchanger fill tank fluid level (a mark/level indicated on them proper level), check oil level proper, check oil color (not blackish), look under the car very well for heavy rust/impact areas, damage, massive grime, oil reside spots, check tire wear that it's consistent all four tires/equal tread inside tire vs outside, check interior/sunroof/trunk signs for rain leaks, verify one owner though car fax can be misinformation too, look at body panel edges for paint lines means paint repair/accident minor-major. Drive around and 20 minutes stop and go traffic and makes sure blowing hot and cold air.
@@GettingthruLife it’s listed at a previous rental vehicle dealership. I was worried that it hadn’t been treated well, as it was a rental car. I test drove the car it was very nice fully loaded. Should I be worried about the turbos if I pull the trigger?
@@GettingthruLife I am also looking at a 2015 3.7 with 65k miles, 2 owner car, good car fax. At a dealership as well. Would you recommend the 3.0t or the 3.7?
In my opinion buying an Infiniti certified pre owned is the way to go then secondly if they have a non certified pre-owned Infiniti. More of a gamble otherwise as who knows what about the car. If you buy from a Infiniti dealership the bonus is they can look up records/history/service. Buying from a random car rental place is a gamble but I wouldn't say that's always a bad way to buy. Just depends on the vehicle. To find out you have to inspect the vehicle properly. Got to do homework when buying cars in different situations for other situations. Turbo damage, excessive turbo wear comes from either lack of oil changes, car being pushed in extreme situations or previous owner altering the way the motor and turbos perform which when done happens at about 35-45k mileage. Also 2, at about the 35k-40k mark is when most people drive the new car and sell whereby avoiding having to deal with maintenance which affects reliability/operation down the road. Auto transmission fluid, rwd/awd differential oil, serpentine belt inspection/replace, airfilter inspect/replace.... Buying used is many times a gamble because of unknowns but if done intelligently can be done and money can be saved because reduction in fees, taxes and not paying thenew car price. Reason I bought/went new and then when my lease was up, if I still liked the car experience I could buy. If I was one of those who used and abused their car, used up the newness then many escape the aftermath by dumping their car and walking away, then doing/repeating the process over again. I don't think or feel there is really one car 3.0t vs 3.7 that is more reliable than the other. I do feel the 3.7 sounds better but the turbo 3.0 is more fun and has more room to grow for adding more fun factor to the motor, but needs to be done right, a investment. Stay away from a 3.0t that's had blowoff valves, stock/factory catalytic converters removed and had a Burger Motorsports JB boost controller added. How do you know, buying used? You don't, you can only look for tale tale signs which can be difficult to see. Reason to buy new or buy from a trusted source. To run those parts above, a 3.0t needs to be tuned/ adjusted by a reputable tuner for those modifications. Many don't want to spend that 1,400 to 1,700 dollars and therefor take the shortcut which can cause problems down the road for the next owner or the 3rd owner.
@d3annax449 look at these things to get an idea if your used car you are looking to buy is worth it. ruclips.net/video/bYLeZSPRS-c/видео.htmlsi=TecYqXvg-jz71izo
I would say in general the car is a great all around car but if it's a good deal is a huge, broad question. It depends on your opinion of nice and condition. When it comes to my definition of nice and worthy of my money, I want my car to look as close to off the showroom floor new condition. Of course theirs going to be wear and imperfections from ownership but does it meet you standards now. Is the paint good, had the front of the car been cared for and not splattered in rock chips, door ding free, scratch free around the trunk and doors from care of putting things in the trunk/ getting in and out, how do the leather seat look, how do the interior surface look, is the motor clean, what does the under side condition look like, have you checked the oil level/smell/color, look at the airfilter condition. Be ready to soon need oil change, serpentine belt change, soon rear diff oil, soon transmission flush, maybe new tires especially if still the factory runflats. I'm not shopping for these cars but price maybe low 20"s if appears taken care off and less wear and tear. Since from a real dealer with extended factory warranty and they stand behind the car, probably asking 25k-27. All depends on many variables. I love and enjoy the heck out my my car. Drives so nice and feels solid and quality. I go above and beyond to protect it and keep it clean and fluids new and correct levels. If you can get it for what you feel you can afford monthly and comfortable with, you should be happy. Just look all over the car and get personal with it. Look inside wheel wells at brakes and suspension, get on your back and look under the car for things that damage, scuffs, cracks, impacts. Look at exterior panel gaps and look for paint lines indicating repainting. If everything lines up with your standard's and the payments/financing then should be a good move.
@@GettingthruLife Thank you for the advice. It’s either between the q60 or a Jeep Wrangler Again thank you I will take a deep look when I go test drive
@@OBEYALLSTARS See now you stated Q60 instead of Q50 so more $ than I quoted. I don't know what these cars go for used with various miles so Im really guessing or what I be willing to pay. 2018 30k miles in the market we are in were used vehicles are fetching a premium price maybe 35-37k for that used '18 Q60 which is CPO. Dealership do charge top dollar of course. I drove/ rented a jeep Cherokee upper model trail rated blah blah, where it was nice but I wasn't impressed. Good vehicle to rent but not for me to own. Wobbly suspension with ton of body movement/roll and a real lack precision experience compared to my Q50 sedan which is my benchmark which I judge other vehicles. I was renting a lot of cars 2018-2019 early 2020 and nothing I rented compared to my '19 Q50 Sig Edition. I really liked a Nissan Altima SR loaded car that I rented for a business trip and it drove so nicely and was super comfortable. That's what got me to go to Infiniti after visiting Nissan dealership who was playing insane hardball on their prices. Glad it worked out the way it did because I'm super happy, even close to 2 years later that I opted to get the Infiniti.
I have 2017 Q50S 405HP, awd. The car is mine since dealership to the present time. I run 64 000kms. I have no problems with engine..., but I know at least 3 same cars where engine die because of overheating, with mileage below 40k kms((( I think the main problem is that we have same radiator/engine heat exchanger as 2.0t... Nissan was trying to unify the cars but owners are to pay for this....(((
These cars in general compared to what's out there don't need much. Getting a reliable car depends on many things like first buying a taken care of vehicle. You can do lots of things to make sure you are not buying into a inferior vehicle. If the Q50 or Q60 you want to by has more than 30k miles then you want to verify the serpentine belt replacement status.get someone who is well educated in buy vehicles and even better someone who has history with Infiniti products. Other than that buy new and then don't have to worry for 3 years. The bad thing with these and most cars is people don't change their oil often enough based on their use.
40k a year is on the extreme side for a year. I would likely say not a 40k a year car unless you bought brand new and did oil changes every 7k. It's not an endurance type of motor. I drive about 7k a year because I have other vehicles and I tend to rent for business which is most of my mileage last 4-5yrs.
I just bought one and I wouldn’t buy it used like that it probably only has a good 20k miles on it left before something messes up and the warranty is gonna be gone by then
So if someone were to get one like myself, would 2019 be the best year to get one? Since the other years had turbo issues? I keep reading that the turbos blow on the other years but I don’t know much about the 2019 year
Turbos don't really blow up. Turbos on many cars are touchy. Turbos spin at insane high rpm and deal with extremes. Supposedly, 2019 verses 2016-2018 got revised turbos but I have not been able to confirm what updates were made. Common issues for wear are people don't change their engine oil enough for the conditions they drive. These turbos use the same oil for lubrication. Worn out oil then worn out turbos. Oil seals on these little turbos wear out and can leak. The waste gate flapper door mechanism can wear out and impeller wheels can develop play/wobble over years of use. Over time and with extended use, happens to most lower spec/mid spec oem factory built turbos. Note if you buy an earlier year model car then it has more use and miles so point is to buy the newest car you can so less overall wear. (If a car/vehicle, the parts that move and spin see less extended high rpm's over years of use -racing the engine-putring under more stress, then the turbo internals as well as the rest of the engine will tend to last longer.) Just practical thinking. Good lubrication is also an important key to longevity. Buy any vehicle and dive the snot out of it, then going to need to typically do more maintenance. 4 and 6 cylinder engines in general work harder the old school V8's to produce similar performance so over time they encounter more stress and wear and tear. Upside, 4 and 6 cylinder turbo charged engines maje good power and get better fuel economy than V8's.
@@GettingthruLife oh alright! I just wondered what the best years were and coming from you having it tuned and taken care of your car of course. Would you recommend the q60 in general besides some of the problems?
Same exact internals in a Q60 vs a Q50. I recently elected to have my turbos replaced under warranty due to turbo wastegate rattle. My car worked fine but the startup rattle was not favorable sounding but not a big deal. I just elected to have them replaced. These cars have pretty good warranties. 4 year overall car warranty and 60k motor/powertrain warranty. Always try to buy from an Infiniti dearship with a trusted reputation is key. Not roadside car lot or other dealerships just selling auction inventory products peoples unknown trade ins.
I run two sets depending on the weather and my mood. I have my factory tinted chrome 19x8.5x245 and then I have 4 x Verde VFF01wheels 19x8.5 fronts and 19x10 rears.
I'm suspicious all the time. When it comes to certain things I can even be more suspicious, like cars that are known to be the type that most people manipulate, do subpar mods/installs and then typically get abused. Got to chose wisely when buying Dodge 5.7/392's/Hellcats, GT 5.0's/350, Vettes, Cameros, Supras, and certainly cars like 2009-2015 GTR's, BMW's, Mercedes. Really do your best do-diligence to sniff out B.S. and undisclosed/hidden problems.
Hi mileage almost always lowers reliability unless some bland Toyota or Honda. Just depends massively how the used car was maintained and care for. Crap shoot buying multi owner used.
@@Freestyler4130 There's a big difference between a beater/not cared for/older model Infiniti and a newer one that has been taken care of or bought new. There's not many cars you can buy today that thru a tune only you can make a 450-470+ crank hp car and it not be a boy racer mustang or a 10-15 year old BMW. Many could/can find a somewhat clean 2016-2017 for around 19-22K. Knocking someone else wishes/likes is sort of closed-minded to put it politely. People are who they are and not everyone is at the same point in life.
2016, 2017 and 18 motors can have a tendency to have porus blocks which means after time the block with the coolant channels leaks coolant into the engine oil. Also the 16,17 and 18 models have the older turbos and or engine software that allowed more reliability issues. Who's selling it? How many owners? young person or older person? Has it had lower downpipes/full downpipes and or blowoff valves? Maintenance records included? In this market car prices are out of wack. I personally think 32K is high for 80K miles unless this is at a actual Infiniti dealership and they have looked the car over and are offering 100K mile warranty. The only Infiniti I'd trust is one you have full history on or you know the owner and they take care of the things they own. A bunch of tore up, worn out and abuse VR30's out there. Good car but just need to know what you are buying into.
From my research and my data yes this 3.0T motor could use bigger, less restrictive Dp's but there's a big but. This car was designed around its restrictive exhaust and catalytic converters. The stock turbos were selected and spec'd for this restriction/slowdown. When you go and put downpipes and remove this car's CATS 2 or then 4 of them you place more risk on premature turbo failure. Right now in the next couple of years I don't know if I'm ready to buy new turbos or seek the trouble that comes with removing catalytic converts. Replacing the Lower downpipes typically remove 2 unless you buy the 800-900 highflow catted. It's just a personal opinion. One day in the future if I still have this car/plan on hagging onto it, and it's worth it to me, and if I went bigger and better turbos in the quest for more performance then I'd for sure look into installing 3" full catless dp's.
Getting thru Life yes I agree but it was factory tuned for the small diameter pipes and like in your situation you are hurting your car by tuning and choking it even more just my opinion any intelligent tuner would inform you of this and also give you launch control so lower downpipes and hks blow off valves and heat exchangers is all supporting mods for the longevity of our little turbos and doesn’t need a tune but improves the car air flow dramatically
Getting thru Life one more thing from my research was heat and boost spikes and without the proper venting you are trapping heat which in the long term will kill your power or uncontrollable boost spikes
@@chantyduong1502 I don't understand what you mean by hurting the car because I don't have aftermarket lower dp's likely catless? That makes no sense to me. I've been in direct contact with AMW tuning in Houston who specializes in Q50 3.0T's where he is a highly recommended tuner among the Facebook 3.0T crowd plus I've gone straight to the source and had many email conversations/shared my datalogs with Ecutek who designed the software to crack these and others car's computers. From these discussions, like with my current tuner who is a world-renowned and highly respected GTR/Nissan platform tuner, they stand by my car running safely and within calibration/performance limits as does Ecutek overseas. Interesting as well is, every one of these companies and individuals have told me directly and hinted indirectly that blowoff valves are not necessary and they are popular and sought after mainly for more for the sound. They all went even a step further and stated that blowoff valves can be a minor benefit in some special circumstances but can also be a hindrance to AFR). I made a video on this: ruclips.net/video/doTLF4Xwp3s/видео.html I have never, ever heard or seen evidence that not running lower downpipes on a tuned 3.0T makes it dangerous situation. I've actually heard the opposite from so technical discussions. Removing the stock downpipes and cats can allow the stock turbos, tuned and untuned, to spool up too quickly and freely causing more heat and undo wear to the stock turbos. (they aren't meant to be used hard) Now if you have upgraded, tougher turbos and the proper tune for them then this won't be an issue. There is lots of misinformation out there going around so I like to email and talk to the proper sources that have first hand working knowledge plus they aren't just trying to get me to buy their product. You talk to companies that sell a product and depend on you buying their parts then, of course, they want/need you to buy their part and in some instances spread free that you are damaging your car without their part or lie about the performance gain. Hope that helps. You don't have to believe me or agree with me but this is what I'm going by.
My information is based on a Nissan master tech that has over 20 years experience and still currently works for Nissan and he told me all the parts in our q50 is mass produced and assembly line junk not like the parts for the Gtr and if you tuned you need to do supporting mods for the turbo and back pressure will kill your turbos if there is excessive pressure going backwards so without the blow off and no recirculated system where does it go ??? All our cars is the same but one thing is different the tuner so I guess if your tuner is giving you codes and can’t figure it out then is more than a software problem and q50 and GTR is not same. It’s not about popular parts but good quality parts and a good tuner goes hand and hand. The master tech goes to New Jersey to update his education every year and is my friend
Looking at a 2017 Q60 3.0T in the Middle East, it’s a US spec import with 100k KM and priced around $17k, anything I should look out for? Checking the vins to see if it was totaled but other than that idk much
Look at heat exchanger and radiator overflow tanks under the hood. Two of them left side and one driver side backside of radiator. Fluid level color should be blue and about 2 inches from bottom or to fill line indicated on tank. Drive around 30 min a check again. Check oil level and color. Deep back vs brown or better yet honey color. Flip on ac on high check cooling, run heater and check. Check all vents blowing performed air. Look at all tires, inside tread and outside for unusual tire wear. Check exhaust on startup for mild white smoke and coolant smell. Rev engine mildly hood up and listen/look at serpentine belt function/operating. Get in the ground with a flashlight if needed and look for road damage to undercarriage. Look in truck, lift carpet look for mold, water, cleanliness. Check exterior panels for repainting- inside door parimeter. Check hood edges paint for roughness. Touch every button, rocker switch for proper function. Do a 20-30 min test drive in silence and listen for odd sounds.
I’m buying a 2017 3.0t with 27k miles on it not planing on doing any mods just blow off valves and axel back exhaust do I have to worry about turbos or serpentine belt if I keep it stock?
Just for you to decide what's best for you but the tuners like AMS and other top tuners do not recommend blowoff valves since there isn't a a proper recirculating blow off valve kit out for this car. The blowoff to atmosphere valves won't destroy a motor quickly but can have a slow negative effect over time due to confusing AFR's. It is what it is. Blowoff valves really need the ecu adjustment to run them properly but for most folks that does not stop them. Same as removing catalytic converters with full/lower downpipes per my tuner at Racebox because car/ecu was designed to run with 4 catalytic converters. At 27K I would have someone official at a respected Infiniti dealership inspect your belt and advise you if needs replacement. If it has never been replaced or it had been replaced and not precisely put back on (correctly aligned) then you risk destroying that belt which can damage other things. Part of the downside of purchasing a pre-owned car as over time stuff has to be done to keep it running like new. Most of the time the owner/owners before you did nothing in maintenance because they knew or likely knew they wouldn't have the car when parts started to wear due to lack of maintenance. (There's a reason why so many people buy a car used and then later have issues either from the person before you or the new owners own bad choices). Best bet is to buy a CPO but then that costs more money buts means less risk and more piece of mind. seriously, if in doubt and there should be because belts are reported to snap most around 30K. This depends on many variable but since you didn't own the car for the first 27K then you don't know. I'd drive it to a Infiniti dealer and ask if they could take 5 min and give it a look. You will likely be a customer of their in the future so they should help you out.
They are an ok tire at a reasonable price but as far as performance I've recognized the need to spend more and get more. Not stellar for 0-60 acceleration especially when these turbo cars get tuned with an additional 100+ whp. Likely just fine for a AWD Q50-60 AWD but not necessarily RWD with an open diff.
My car runs flawlessly. Things I'd stay away from are blowoff valves that are/have been available and removing the catalytic converters ie catless downpipes or lower downpipes. Talk to anyone with turbo issues and bam... guess what? Blowoff valves and catless lower downpipes.
a guy I know that works at a tire shop had a q60 and he put like 4000 miles kn it and the motor blew at only 43k miles. he didn't have a warranty on it and to replace the motor was gonna cost him somewhere around 27,000 dollars which is ridiculous I'd rather have the 3.7
A guy I know who drives a Q60 leaves a ton of unknown info. Bashing a car based on super limited info is sketchy or intentional. He obviously bought a crap car from a crap business and got taken to school. Highly likely he didnt do his homework and didnt propely inspect the car. You can buy any car on the planet where if it wasn't taken care of, shotty parts and subpar install on it and or was driven into the ground then of course it's likely going to be a bad vehicle. Maybe he bought a reconditioned or salvaged title as more people try to do to save money but usually a bad idea. People usually are to blame for their own mistakes. Not the brand or the platform. It's easy to buy a clapped out 3.7 too.
You stupid it goes to all cars dummy, the guy probably was clueless doesn’t know how to simply maintain a car but changing oil, air filter, transmission fluid, rotors brakes, etc i bought a q50 3.0t 2018 at 30k miles and now it’s sitting at 65k miles age has never been to the shop or even break a single part, I’ve drove it to LA back and fort because my girl live there and I live in SF so 5-7 hours. No problem with my car love this car, those clueless brainless people who drive cars doesn’t know how to even change the oil bunch of morons then hating on the car.
Turbo pre mature failure at 30-40k has a lot to do with the modifications people have done to their VR30 motors. Catless downpipes and no ecu tuning for those catless downpipes and then a little of blowoff valves over time cause turbos to fail. Ots just a fact that people with their catalytic converters on their standard tune are far, far less likely to have problems. One more point, for 2019 Infiniti VR30 x they got a turbo, block and a software upgrade.
@@ahmadmasadeh1298 Buy new and take care of the car yourself or buy a certified pre-owned car from an Infiniti dealership with extended warranty, or know what you are doing when buying used and go over a pre-owned VR30 car with a fine tooth comb and ask a lot of question and get answers. If no answers then the person selling that car has no idea about the car and likely flipping it, hiding something or clueless. I think easy to buy into a bad Infiniti turbo car these days. Not that Infiniti motors/cars are not reliable, it's just many people these days don't value the things in their possession. Just got to buy smart.
My car is great so far. Good gas mileage, pretty quick close to 500 motor/crank hp, still pretty tight with minimal interior rattle/squeaks, and no parts failures or need for warranty repair. I got mine new at the middle point of 2019.
I'm not a big fan of the Stinger's rear sloping window design plus the side scoops just like on the Q60. The KIA stingers are also expensive for the KIA name. Less money to mod Q50 to gain more who. Note: I'd consider sticking to the 2018 and newer cars because some updates and upgrading where done to make the cars more reliable...I think this is pretty much true but I can't confirm this concrete/set in stone. 2016 -2017 lesser expensive and typically more miles but also more water and tear and more maintenance likely needed so cost and climb back up.
That is a difficult question to answer. Tons of things that need to be looked at to see if it's worth that price or not. Check the oil level/quality, check radiator and heat exchanger coolant tanks, check the airfilters for condition, check transmission level and for quality, a good look at the main serpentine belt, look at tires/date codes, inspect the bottom of the entire underside of the vehicle look for fluid/oil leaks. look for repairs or shotty work.........maintenance records/oil change records???? 2016-2017 likely to have worn turbos because who doesn't drive these cars hard depending on who owned it. Extended dealership warranty?
I recently purchased a 2017 q50 3.0 premium with about 35,000 miles. (40,000km estimate) for about 25k USD. For the lower price, I would highly consider looking in to what Brian suggested. (especially if the dealer offers a extended warranty)
@@williamjeffries452 that's a nice price ! I've seen a bunch in my area for solid prices coming from dealerships from 17k -25k and they all have 15-40k miles
Yep, still not a good time to be shopping for vehicles due to high prices and economy. Reason why I'm more than happy with my 2019 and the value I git in 2019 price before shit hit the fan.
Be willing to travel for the dream car you want! I'm finding q60's 3.0t in Florida for 20-25k with high ish miles. That's the top end of my price range but I makes it an actual possibility for me to get :)
New York got to be sure you don't buy a flood car. Buy used anywhere got to be ultra diligent to look for flood damage due to all the flooding including hurricane. Hurrican Ian ruined/totalled like 358,000 according to latest Google. Shaddy people and small dealership buy the water damaged vehicles, and do their best to not disclose properly. A flooded car, especially saltwater means ruined or a nightmare to repair. According to Google again, hurricane flood water and heavy rains in New York 2021-2022 destroyed an estimated 250,000 vehicles with flood damage.
Well my mint, 100 percent loved and maintained 2019 3.0t Sig Edition RWD with 26,300 miles is slated in this (obnoxious) market to sell for about +/- 28,000k at the infinit dealership. They were offering me 24,000. I passed on their offer. I was considering the newest 2024 Tesla Model 3 performance. Not now with their 8,000 plus down 3 year lease offer. Tesla was advertising/offering $550 a month and 2,999K down lease.
The STI's and Subaru products/models are popular cars, pretty quick and awd but in my mind they are in different categories than Q50-60. Rally car look and vibe compared to more flowing lines and touring/luxury vibe on the interior. They both can be modded but initially that tune and heat exchanger alone upgrade for Infiniti is about as good as it gets in my opinion. Reliability depends on so many, to many variables. Just depends on the shape and care the used cars were in at buying used stage. Both car platforms that are bought by younger, gear head oriented people who modify aspects like suspension, braking, aero, and engine performance mods (turbo, HX, ecu, fuel, exhaust). I think which one to buy just comes down to preference. Pretty much all the Subaru's are awd where the Q-Infiniti cars you can choose. Reliability in my eye, the Subaru might be higher but that could be because the nature of the people buying them. I feel there are plenty of uninformed/under informed people buying the Infiniti twin turbo car. (Removing the CATs and then doubling down with the performance exhaust while untuned for those mods is not a good idea.) Reason why the Q50-60 3.0t have garnered an online bad reputation. Nissan and Subaru are pretty good automobile makers to pick which ever one that excited you the most when your walking away from or up to. For me, that was my 2019 Infiniti Q-50 Signature Edition or their full sport model.
@@GettingthruLife Hey how are you ? I just picked up a 2018 Q60 , I was told that with the Lower down pipes it’s in monitored and you wouldn’t need a tune for it , what is your opinion on that?
If it's a RedSport model, they come with the turbo sensors that allow the ecu to monitor the turbo wheel speed where the ecm can manipulate parameters to get things close to balanced but I don't feel it's the perfect solution. There's a guy I know with a 2017 RedSport I think I recall the year where he ran his CBE, lower downpipes and blowoff valves with no tune and his turbos went out I think around 40-45k. I think I recall seeing the 2018 models got equiped with an upgrade turbo to increase longevity and the newer models. I still think the best way to run catless dps is be tuned and for the other stuff people are addicted to put on these cars but I would think the RedSport models handle lower dps better. If your car has them on there then your kind of stuck with then because you don't have the factory pipes/cats plus putting on dps and taking off is a struggle. Hopefully you have years to enjoy and no big let downs. Does your car have BOV'S and a CBE as well, muffler delete?
The factory catted downpipes have O2 sensors which play a huge roll in the car running right. I would only recommend full or a partial lower downpipes when professionally tuned. Then just a lower downpipes set with the factory Cat-back exhaust is a waste if time and money and hard on the car without proper tuning. Just think why there are so many people with turbo issues.
I am not familiar with first-hand experience with the 3.7. My first Infiniti product is with my purchased new 2019 3.0T. I would suggest just like buying anything on the level of high mileage. Just check that everything functions so you know where you stand once you own it. Inspect tires, underneath the vehicle, check oil/level/color, pull out the air filters inspect, radiator tank overflow container level and coolant color, transmission fluid level, maybe have a shop do a multi-cylinder compression check...point/objective is know what you are getting into and what you will likely be needing to spend money on in the near future to keep your car running at optimum level. Ask questions to get a feel for the car/vehicle's history. Any maintenance records? What's been modified on the car? What have they replaced during their ownership?
It doesn't bother me if you think they all blow up. With this stated I feel there are a bunch of abused Q50-60's out there so if not willing to spend a little more to get a good/solid car then I'd say buy something else. A lot of people buy their car unknowingly from people who buy these from auction and they want to pay as little as they can and then turn around and inflate the price. If the motor/the all-around package was so untrustworthy and terrible why would Nissan pretty much make their newest wonder car with the same turbo VR30 motor? Ive got 27K on my car over 3+ years and never once have I needed a repair and Ive been tuned 445 whp and 500+ torque for 2.6 of those years.
Im looking to buy a 2017 Q50 with 100k miles as my first car for 16k to me that's a lot of miles for it being fairly new but I've seen the car faxs and its two previous owners mostly highway miles im guessing im a little nervous i dont want any problems
Yeah I agree...for me 100K would be a little excessive. That price seems high as I wouldn't be paying that or I'd look at others. Honestly, I'd look at a 3.7 with high miles before the turbos. Most people don't change the oil enough and the turbos do wear out over time as they are not the highend turbos like Precision, Garrett, BorgWarner... It all comes down to person or people taking care of the car so in this car's case that's times 2 to try and be lucky with. Really do your homework and likely put that car up on a lift and check what needs to be brought up to specs so that it's good to go a couple of years. Would suck to buy and then find out 6 months later you got to drop $500 here and $900 there or more. A car that's super rusty or excessively dirty underneath says a lot to me.
@@jovonnphd If you're looking at one with 100K plus miles then yes likely the 3.7. The 3.0t's didn't come about till 2016 so if you bought a 2016 with 100K then that person drove upwards of 20K a year. That's a fair amount of driving and these turbos likely aren't going to last that long as almost everybody turns these turbos up which puts a lot more wear and tear on them. The 3.0T are faster stock, motor for motor and then there's the factory Red Sport. If I had a good used option for a 3.0T, that was in my spending range, then I'd opt for the 3.0t motor with the twin turbos.
If you like it and it checks out. Depends heavily in where you buy it from. Ask if it was it was bought at auction. Any history/records on the car? Have you gone over it and looked and touched everything? Ask to drive the car for an hour and if everything runs good at the end then that's a bonus. Flip on the air and crank aircon. Flip on the heat and run heater 5 min. Check all vents. Check the hx and radiator over flow tank levels. Check oil and look at color and level. Honey color oil good, black color oil not changed and can tell you maintance not a big priority. Look at tire wear pattern on tires. Can tell suspension/alignment issues. Start car and immediately go to exhaust tips, look for any smoke or coolant smell. Check air filters. Look at serpentine belt with aid of a flashlight check tension/ listen for odd sound as car is reved. Don't under any circumstance buy a retitled or salvage title unless you know 100% what's likely to break and you are an amazing and resourceful mechanic. Only buy a clean titled car and I would try to buy from a long standing, trusted dealership. Get anything worth in writing warranty or you buy as is. Because these cars are usually not well cared for, you could easily buy into a headache because people before you had blowoff valves, catless/full diwn pipes, lowered suspension, and highly likely the JB4 boost controller. I would not buy a 2016-2918 that had these parts installed for extended time. If you like the car still and down the road you have budgeted for a proper tune and aftermarket turbos then buying a higher mileage q50-60 2016- 2018 makes more sense. Most of these car has issues because of previous owners and not necessarily the cars fault.
I purchased a 2019 Q50 used with 30,000 miles and just took it in for coolant leak. Comes to find out that the coolant was leaking into the engine oil. Dealer is telling me I need a new engine and factory warranty may not cover it and I only had the car for 3 months
The porous block thing sucks and happens more often than usual. I haven't seen or heard many 2019 affected by this. I know a friend with a 2018 redsport and had this happen with around 40-50k and Infiniti replaced everything under warranty but his was a CPO Infiniti with that warranty. If under warranty than that's a clear warranty issue. If they are saying you caused it then they have to prove that. If out of warranty due to time limit than that's unfortunate. Depends on what's the cause of the damage or failure.
I wonder if this porous engine block thing is environment driven? Are these cars that are run in seriously cold climates, does that contribute to the metal becoming porous? Close to zero degrees and then warming up to 200 degrees thousands of times? Shouldn't happen but why some cars have this problem and others don't needs research. Most of the time it's when people buy used/preowned vehicles. It leaves open where did the car originate from or where was the car mostly driven for the 1st 20-30K miles? How does iron even become porous over time is the question.
@@GettingthruLife good point. I’ve only had the car for 3/4 months, I had just purchased last year end of December certified pre-owned with 26,000 miles. The vehicle is still at the dealership just waiting on the warranty claim hopefully they can cover it and not try to blame me for it. I had just taken the vehicle to get an oil change two months ago. It’s just a bummer to see a 2019 vehicle go through this. I’ve only seen older cars with miles over 150,000+ with this issue.
Depends on many variables like condition, maintenance records and where it came from, and who's selling it. Everything today is higher priced due to a government forced, shitty economy and jacked up vehicle market. Not the best time to buy and get a deal.
Maintance records, how many owners. check oil level, check oil color, look at coolant levels, look at airfilter inspects, look at tire wear, inspection underneath car for damage/wear, consider auto trans fluid flush/replace, feel for brake vibration/pad replace, drive and flip every button/lever/AC.. drive it for 30 min slow-fast-traffic-highway. Think about or consider paying for a 100 point inspection at a Infiniti/Nissan dealer if you don't feel confident in your ability to pick a healthy reliable vehicle.
That's hard for me to generalize and just say sight unseen if that's a good car. You need to do your do diligence to check the vehicle out. Just beware that at 50k that's a sweet spot for miscellaneous things to go out/get used up. Example battery, plugs, alternator or a sensor of some type. These parts/repairs add up and the maintainance that's past due or put off because the car was going to be sold. Buying used means you got to consider where you are buying it from. If buying from a individual you can get a better deal/less markup but then you don't have anyone to fall back in or hold to a degree of responsibility if you bought into a total lemon or a nightmare scenario. Buy from a reputable dealership then you pay more but you have a dealership that was responsible to a point to make sure the car was looked over and made sure everything looked good. Downside of dealerships these days cars are bought at auctions of all sorts by a buyer so the cars history is none resistant but they still do their best not to buy something horrible because that means they/the dealerships got to sink money into it. Buying used is a gamble many times. Sometimes you can win and sometimes you can lose. Learning how to buy used items like a car can payoff big over time. Generally 40 to 50 a car is not used up. There's typically another 30 to 45k in there before 6,000 to 7k major parts start needing to be rebuilt or replaced. If you don't know how to look a car over or just don't have the time then try to take it to a trusted professional in the industry who can put it up on a lift and run thru it. Will cost a little bit but could save you thousands in additional unseen repair bills.
@@denorvellcollier1633 These motors these days will run well if you take care of them. Give them the right fuel, change worn out fluids and address issue sooner than later. Just depends on if you get a new car and treat it this way from the start or buy it from a dealership or individual who treated it with respect before you. A lot of people abuse and intentionally mistreat their vehicles.
I bought my 2013 G37xS sedan in 2016 with 50K miles on the clock. Today it has 111K miles and a nice set of maintenance records. Plugs at 75K, passenger side valve cover gasket and radiator (rusted from salted roads in Winter) at 90K. Exhaust (also rusted) at 100K, got a quiet-ish Invidia Q300. Never any major downtime/repair in 6 years. 35 mpg cruising at 65 mph.
Despite what non Q50-60 owners state through lack of knowledge or ownership, the trans in the 50-60 is fairly decent. It will hold close to 600- whp without needing to upgrade. It's not the perfect drag racing/road course trans but being a torque converter run trans I think that is a positive. Maybe an upgraded torque converter if seriously pounding on these cars. For a daily driver/occasional drag race/fun car the 7 speed trans is fine. If a choice maybe the 2018 and above 8 speed ZF HP8 transmission would be a better choice.
Car market is an insane place 2022. I'm looking for 2nd car for my work travel and prices are stupid insane. I know very little about the hybrid Q50. Look the car over and ask a lot of questions like where it came from? Compare to other similar car prices. Ask to drive the car around town to get a good feel for how everything operates. If you like it and feel you can afford/justify...then consider getting.
Here in Dallas used car lots by my house. Get this...2020 Nissan Versa 10-12k miles selling for $23,500. 2021 15k miles selling for $24,700.. 2018-2021 altimas selling for 28,000-31,000.
With the factory engine cover on, that makes a difference (here it is removed). Tell me what model car's engine you like that looks better with their engine cover off too? The intercoolers on top of the motor add a fair amount of complexity of hoses and wires but there are benefits to this design as this motor is going to be duplicated and celebrated on the 400Z and the potential will be broadcasted loud and clear for all the hear and some to weep?
Hopefully not but anything can happen. I am making these hairdryer turbos spin faster and generate more heat. I'll for sure let people know when/if things like this happen. The 16 and 17's year models are more likely to have turbo failures. If I still have this car then that will be a great time to go AMS Garrett turbos and go from tiny to mid-sized with much higher build quality and mid to upper RPM boost.
@@Nontoxic6 I'm not going to say anything more as if I do I could curse myself. Stock 3.0T car and treated right...in most circumstances likey 5 years. Up to this point in my life I haven't owned a single car or truck more than 3 years, mostly 2. I really like this car so maybe I'll keep it much longer as long as something else doesn't come out that is a have to have in the $45-55k range.
Of course you don't keep cars too long, u buy Nissan products you can only drive them 2 years before they become junk! That car isn't even a year old and you are already judging its reliability?
I would take a guess that you are likely generally not the most friendly person to hang around and appears you just seem to look and watch videos that you can be negative on. Why otherwise would you watch a Nissan/Infiniti junk video? What you wrote comes off automatically like you have a grudge or a bad attitude. I buy and drive all kinds of cars from many brands but Nissan and Infiniti have many of their older vehicles on the road today and they still drive and function great like my neighbor with his 1980's Nissan truck and his 1990's Nissan car. Clearly you have personal issues so I'll just leave that with you. Also if you're not civil going forward then I'll just close you out. I don't like to do that but I try to keep things friendly.
@@GettingthruLife Sorry if i hurt your feelings, i figured that making videos on you tube, u would understand criticism. Nissan was great from the moment it started As Datsun but lately they are horrible cars, especially their Jatco transmissions. My sons Altimas Transmission broke at only 46k miles. I wanted to get a 2013 Infiniti cuz they are half the price of a Toyota or Lexus, which is why i was looking for videos on reliability and came across this video. But here u are making a video of a 9 month old car. If you are that impressed of a Nissan product that has gone a few months without problems, then im sure i want to stay away from these vehicles. U don't have to block me, i just wont watch your videos and tell everyone to stay away from you so they won't hurt your sentiments.
I bought my Q50 new and my 2019 Q50 Luxe now has 82k miles. I drive a lot of highway miles. I've had my JB4 since 20k miles or less I can't remember, but I've had no serious issues with the car. I did have a coolant leak issue when it was summer here in California but I used a Barr's stop leak and haven't had a reoccurring issues.
What was your circumstance? New or used purchase? What year model was your car you have experience with? If used did you by it from a dealership or an individual?
@@jonathanperez2358 Well that leaves a lot of information open/unanswered. Did they buy a good vehicle in the first place? How many miles and did they check the service history of their vehicles before they bought them? Are they tuned with added boost? Were they tuned previously? Did they have downpipes and or have some or all their cats deleted? What's their driving style? What's there routine maintenance-oil change schedule? All these and much more have a lot to do with how a vehicle lasts and performs. Almost always there are underlying reasons why someone is having problems with their product. I don't have a lot of miles on my 3.0t but I am tuned, were I drive it hard for short periida and expect it to perform but I am also very respectful with it and take care of it to the best of my knowledge. The reason why I'm not playing around with the fuels pumps, injectors, catless downpipes, aftermarket infotainment screens and lowering components/alter suspension. Hopefully it continues to be a great car like it's been so far.
@@jonathanperez2358 Also important to note, many times breakages or problems come from modifications made or related issues.The popular Q50-Q60 RUclipsrs have had their problems because of their modificatiins and in one case letting their engine oil get low for their motor failure. Every car manufacturer is going to have some bad apples but as a whole, I think the Infiniti brand and more specifically the 3.0t if not altered, they have a pretty decent reliability experience. If my car here in the future has issues related to my tuning then I can't fault the car.
I work for Infiniti
Use to sell them also lol
But yeah they’re reliable I’m about to get one eventually hopefully in time for Christmas
I have a 2017 q50 premium that I purchased last year pre owned with 36,000 miles, 2 weeks after having it I had both turbos, belt, and water pump replaced under warranty. 1year has passed and the car has been great, and I’m ontop on maintience. No issues. I run a jb4 map 2 for daily driving and blow off valves. Runs great.
Cool, glad you're enjoying the 50. I'm hoping my turbos last at least 3 years then maybe I can accept buy new AMS turbos if they come out.
Do you need anything special to run map 2? I don’t even have the car, but I plan on getting one and I’m tryna gather info
No, all you need is the JB4 boost controller. I'm not a fan of the JB4 but a low boost increase map 2 is realistic for the car's ecm and faxtory setting to deal with. Do not remove catalytic converters by adding downpipes and run JB4 and blowoff valves. You will damage your turbos over time. Blowoff valves and catless downpipes need Ecutek tuning to recalibrate for these changes. Proof is why there are so many troubled 2016-2018 turbo Q50/60's. Lots of misinformation in 2016-2018. Good tuners started to developed their skills and knowledge in early 2019 going forward.
@@GettingthruLife I see, I saw a lot of people recommending downpipes but I’m just trying to do a heat exchanger and JB4 if I ever do get the car, I also know nothing about modding vehicles so I want to be careful, maybe an exhaust too or something
@@GettingthruLife what do blowoff valves do exactly?
Need a shorter answer? jump to 1:05. You're welcome.
I own 2007 G35S and 2010 M35X and both are EXTREMELY reliable so far... (They both were 2-3 year old used cars when I bought them)
By the way, we also plan to buy a used Q50 3.0t for my wife because my daughter will need a car next year(she will be driving M35X then). Now my son is driving my previous G35S and I'm driving a GSF!!!
Cool, thanks for sharing. There are still plenty of older Infiniti's on the road and many look in great condition. I've always liked the FX35 and the G vehicle. Short story, my older next door neighbor had a black G-coup maybe a 2011-2012 in near mint condition stuck in the tiny garage. He only drove it on only certain occasions/random weekends as he had a work truck. His car was spotless as it was his baby. Back in 2015-2016 he up and died of cancer/lost his fight. His ragtag family members from another state swooped in and stripped out his house and took his Infiniti. At that time I knew nothing about Infiniti's but I always admired his Infiniti when I saw it pulling out.
The best mods I did was lower downpipes and hks blow off valves and will do catch can and mishimoto heat exchanger and replace the garbage stock exhaust system and AMS remote tune
You may not have a ton of subscribers, but now you have a new one keep up the good work!
Same here
Bottom line is : reliability factor boils down to proper maintenance. One thing you didn't mention on that car : TURBO COOL DOWN. Even though it is modern car same principles apply.
If you are talking about letting the car idle for a couple minutes before just coming to a stop and shutting it off, I have a video made just 3 weeks ago about cooling the turbos and it's mentioned in some other videos too. ruclips.net/video/mvnLasQ0C-g/видео.html Thanks for your response!
So give it a couple minutes to just rest after parking, when able?
For those of us in routinely Hot climates...anything further than heat exchanger and blow off valves recommended?
Thanks in advance!
@@DV8N1 If taking on the task of adding a better heat exchanger because you want/like to push this car then there are options. I just wished Infiniti would have put more effort to set this 3.0t to succeed. If not on the basic model, pure & luxe, then on the sport and red sport beef up the HX and rear differential from the factory.
My suggestion for heat exchanger is you want to save some money/keeps this cost down research Frozen Boost options. A little more tinkering skill required because it takes some more steps to mount it up. Next is the Burger Motorsports HX. They have 2 versions. One is made fully overseas and one is likely pieced together here in the US. $100 more for one made in US, but they are identical in size and function, 299 & 399. I chose the 299.00 version and for the most part I'm happy with it for the price savings.
Next is the newest addition to the 3.0t heat exchangers and that is the Mishimoto heat exchanger. I am a fan of Mishimoto. They do extensive test and research developing their products and they do what they are designed to do. $528 right now.
Another option maybe worth looking at in PLM (private label MFG). Less people have these but seems like a good option still and costs right now $495.00.
Lastly, the premium HX because of cost, name and their development/experience with the 3.0t motor is AMS heat exchanger. It costs $799 but sets the benchmark.
In short, all of these options are going to out perform the inferior and anemic factory unit. It just depends on how much $ you want to invest in the game. I don't believe the actually cooling ability between all of these will be that much different but the Mishimoto, PLM and AMS will likely have some small advantages. If you want the best then that costs more. AMS parts also give you cool points and bragging rights.
These blowoff valves you hear mentioned buy many don't deal with any cooling ability or gain you any speed or performance gain. They just do not. I don't run them were for some cars it's more about the turbo blowoff sound they produce like in the movie such as the Fast and the Furious series. Some turbo cars need then because of age, configuration or the very large hp numbers they produce but these cars don't come with them from the factory. Adding 100-140hp doesn't change that. Plus they cost $600 per the kit. To properly run BOV's ones car should be tuned for them but either way they won't hurt or help this auto transmission, VR30 motor. Lots of debate but most professions in the Automotive Industry that know the Q50-Q60 will repeat they are widely used for the sound they produce. It just makes many people giddy.
If you buy one of these 3.0t's new get a oil catch can, Mishimoto brand, get a CBE (catalytic converter back exhaust system to see a marginal hp gain and sound increase), new tires for increase in traction and mostly ride quality & less sound, wheels if that makes you happy. If you want to jump into waking the motor up then there's the Burger Motorsports JB4 boost controller and ultimately the ECU tuning. JB4 $500-650. Tuning the ECU ranges now from $700 to 1,700 depending on company. AMS Performance is the most expensive but appears to be the most hands on with the actual 3.0t motor and ECU.
@@DV8N1 also, the turbos recieve oil from the motor as lubrication so if running the car with elevated oil temps and then you shut the motor off, the oil stops flowing. Also same with the coolant for the car. Running it for thirty seconds to minute to 2 minutes additionally at idel just allows a saftey factory. In the performance cars back likely in 70 up to the 90's people bought what's called a electronic turbo timer and install on their turbo cars. Look that up to read more about it. In one of my videos I discuss me opening my hood after driving when it really hot outside where I notice all my temps on the hot side. I park my car in a closed garage to when the garage door shuts no airflow. Good closed just allows the under the hood contents to stay really hot for many more hours including the turbos. Parked outside then more natural airflow but it's what track racers do to cool down their motors.
@@GettingthruLife These are outstandingly thorough responses!!
Anyone reading, please upvote original thread to share increase awareness!
Thank you very, very much in the time taken to be so thorough! I, as many others I'm sure, would greatly appreciate a video quickly reiterating this valuable information and suggestions.
Can only imagine you have at least one already uploaded..
Thank you again!
Very recently got a Q50 and want to care and respectfully push the car.
Your insight is invaluable.
I have owned a 2017 Q60 Red Sport AWD since 2016. Just had both turbos and engine replaced @ 33k miles under factory powertrain warranty due to one turbo whistling under boost, caused by a failed bearing that allowed the impeller to contact the compressor housing. Engine replaced since the turbo failure could introduce metallic bits into the intake side of the engine. Other Q50/Q60 owners w/3.0t have experienced porous engine block issues - the symptom is disappearing coolant, overheating, and/or white smoke from the exhaust when engine is warmed up. Oil analysis will confirm elevated levels of Potassium and/or Sodium in the oil. The only fix is a "long-block" replacement, where the engine core is replaced at the dealership.
This is known to be problematic in the 16,, 17 and some 18' engines. Hopefully, I'm supposed to be better off. Someday I should send my oil sample in for analysis to be in the know. My radiator coolant level stays consistent.
😐... Damn!! Great info unfortunately!
@Tre Reese it not to bad. 2016 to some 2018 can encounter porous blocks. Maybe has to do with heat cycles over time or environmental related. Ford with their 2018-19 mustang 5.0 had the cylinder wall plating issue. Most Q50-60 fixed under warranty. With that said, I really don't want my car to need to be repaired. 2019 to 2023 models likely have this issue resolved.
You fr the goat for actually responding to people and helping them,, good video btw
I like to respond to people. I read every single comment, even the bad and mean one's. When I personally post comments on others videos, rarely/almost never get a response. I male the time to do it.
Just bought a 2016 red sport two weeks ago for $19.999. With 70.000 miles. My fingers are crossrd. Great video, i also watched the others
I still really enjoy mine after 3 years. Usually I get bored in 2 years and want to get something else but this car is just over the top for value, looks and overall feel/ride. These cars do have a bad rep for turbo failure but I think a fair portion of that came do to how well it was maintained and how hard it was used.
Where did you find that? . Every red sport I've seen for sale is atleast 30 grand...even high mileage ones.
@@mikeg3529 texas
One thing people have to consider is that this is the 2020 Nissan Skyline over in Japan, and they offer this engine in two specs. 1: A 300hp version like ours 2: A 400hp version that's basically just tuned. Plus this is the motor that they most likely are going to put in the new "400z", but they will use the 400hp tune version. That means that this engine is going to be way more popular, and have a much bigger community of people pushing it to the limits and finding weak spots. Good video btw (:
For the last 5 years since the 3.0t we've had the 400hp model as well. It's been the Q50-Q60 Red Sport 400. The only main difference to get the jump in power is the ECU tuning difference as well. For the most part people have found the hp and tq ceiling for this stock motor and 7 speed Infiniti transmission. The motor and trans can hold realistically up to 625-650 motor hp and 700 tq!.
Yep, when the Nissan 400z and Nismo maybe 25 more hp version comes out then there will be more options and aftermarket support. Hopefully parts get lesser expensive as of now AMS Performance controls and sets the market with high markup on their performance upgrade parts. Z1 is better in this aspect but limited development for now.
Also the sport models have 2 water pumps rather then just 1.
Never buy a Turbo in anything. Naturally aspirated .......only. Problem solved.
turbo/s do add complication but typically with proper maintenance turbos are great. Added hp and better fuel economy then V6/V8 alone.
I think it’s important to remember here….this car had only 7,000 miles at the time the video was recorded, so I place very little confidence in the claim by the owner that it is a “reliable” car.
Nope, 100% reliable so far 3 plus years 23k. Low miles because covid. I prefer to keep low miles and not drive a vehicle into excessive milage per a year if possible. Only thing I do is change oil 5-6k mileage. First oil change was at 600 Miles before I ecutek tuned my car 93 octane.been tuned to approx 435-440 rwhp and 500plus torque per dynojet Dec 2019.
I had a brand new 2014 Ford Focus ST (top trim level ST3) and in the first year I had 2 recalls tsb, an oil leak that could never be stopped (took it in 5 times to 3 different dealerships), high pressure fuel pump issue, and a coolant leak that sent the car into overheat/limp mode highway while I was traveling out of my city in a low populated area. I found a old milk container jug had to fill it with water every 10-12 minutes and fill radiator. All this under 10k miles. 2 new Nissan frontier crew cabs after that focus ST, 20-22k miles each no issues for both trucks. 3 nissan vehicles 7 years, excellent reliability. Cant say that fir other brands even bought new.
Very helpful 3 years later !
Bought a 2018 VR30 $24,000 24,000 miles. got the unlimited miles warranty, no issues all highway miles and stay on top of preventative maintenance. had a bad wheel bearing and the dealer fixed it no charge. long story short get the warranty. directly through Infiniti , they have been great to me
I agree 100%. Piece of mind and a nice car sounds like.
My car 2019 is worth about 32k with my mileage and my lease in 2 month my buyout is 23k. Established price in 2019 market. I love my car but I get bored very easily and usually want something else after 2 years. This Q50 is one of my first vehicles that if I trade/turned in I'd be stupid and miss this car. I rent a bunch of other vehicles and I can't wait to get back driving my car.
Where would you go for unlimited mile warranty
Is it ok if I get the unlimited mile warranty with Nissan? They are selling an Infiniti I like there
Infiniti and Nissan really one of the same. I'd buy there a million times over from a roadside sales lot. Their warranty has you covered. Just get in writing and signed by gm/sales manager.
Great perspective!! I really appreciate what folks like your self are doing for this platform as far giving your input and suggestions. I own a 2016 used ss 3.0t and have yet to experience any problems with the turbos or anything related to the drive train. I am completely stock and thanks to warnings from yourself and others I think im pretty content with stock the car is still fun
These are very fun cars with 300 whp. Hopefully I can dodge any mechanical issues since I tuned the ecu. I don't get to race many others but I'd like to think I'll get in some situations here one day with some GT 5.0's or dodge 392's. Now I finally have the traction I need with my upgraded Nitto NT555RII's. Good traction is a game changer.
What’s your mileage at? Just purchased a used 2016 3.0t silver sport as well at 70k
@@karlsandin4515 hows your car doing after 70k miles? Is it still running strong ?
Late to the party, but specifically for the 2016-2017 model years, the turbos and water pump tend to fail a bit more than the 2018+ model years. If you're not planning on modifying your VR30 engine, definitely consider adding the additional factory warranty. It will save you THOUSANDS in costs, if/when something finally snaps.
extended warranty is good and as I have seen ICPO warranty is very good. You pay more but almost always end up with a better car. Infiniti's bought at other dealerships with warranty most the time not nearly as good as buying from Infiniti and no auction cars. Needs to have good and documented history in the Infiniti database. So sos so so many cars are bought at auction where almost nothing is known about the cars. Buying cars now from the wrong person just got more troublesome because of the hurricanes and flooding across the U.S. because many of those cars will be restored/not documented flood/salvage and sold as casual used. Electrical gremlins down the road and failed seals.
I saw a show/internet documentary a hundred plus thousand 1 to 5 year old cars underwater fresh and salt water last 1.5 year.
Thanks for making great video like this. I like your thought process on all the parts you put on your car, not just because everyone else put on their car. You review parts more intense like what it does, why, gains/benefits of it, why and such.
I've never buy brand new car in my life and hope never will. I don't believe in buying new car. I been looking at Q50/Q60 ever since they come out back in 2016 and finally got me q50 back in February of this year with approximately 6 month of bumper to bumper and 3yr 30K powertrain warranty left. I paid 23K out the door with 31K miles on the odometer.
My thought on this was what would it break on the car that would cost 25 thousand dollar plus to fix with 30K miles and 3 year left to for the power train warranty. Another reason I don't want New car is because i don't like to deal with the dealer with warranty work and other stuff. I get panic even when I have to take it in for yearly state inspection. After I bought the car I don't like anyone touch my car unless absolutely have too.
They build the car now a day with all the fail safe built in the vehicle system control. It's almost impossible for normal folks to break anything. The car computer won't let you put in wrong gear proper rpm range, won't run full boost without all the parameters are within specified range like oil and water temperature, etc.
Thanks for the positive reinforcement. Sometimes it's difficult to make videos because it can be kind of difficult and easy to screw up. What is in my head, (my vision for the video), doesn't always translate into the videos smoothly. There's away a ton of things to be improved. I'm just not as quick thinking and witty as I was in my 30 and early 40's. getting old does have many disadvantages.
Many times buying a used vehicle makes very good sense like I bought a pre-owned 2002 Ford Taurus SE from a dealership around 2007-2008. With that stated you got to really feel out that purchase and see if it's everything it looks like after the dealership has done what they can to polish it up. Pretty amazing what the folks that recondition these cars can do. I worked at a big dealership here in Dallas as the photographer so I was involved in these processes as soon as the auction cars/trade-in cars showed up. My 2002 Taurus, 32K miles was a fairly good car minus a motor-related drivetrain fault 10,000 miles later that cost me $850. Fixed in a day and a half but 850 was a lot of money cash out of my pocket. Then the transmission went out at 90,000 and left me stranded where the 150 tow and hundreds of dollars storage and then the $4-4,500 to replace it was to much for me at the time. Traded it into ford for chump change even though the car, in general, looked amazing-like a new one minus the tranny failure. Someone that knew what they were doing (I didn't) likely bought that car at an auction for 1K and was able to buy a decent rebuilt replacement transmission and install it for nothing in their re-conditioning shop.
Around here, in the real world people's property gets treated pretty harshly. Not everything is treated harshly and abused but most is. There is a skill to see thru the bad and discover the good or it can really come back to bite people. Transmission repair/labor $4,000-5,000, replacement motor $5-7,000, airconditioner heater core or other related fixes $500 to $3,000, turbo failure $4,000-6,000, accident frame damage, under-paint body damage $2,000-$5000, or undercarriage/suspension damage. All hard to spot with the eye and even on test drives.
I am very particular too as people can likely tell from my videos. I hate taking a new car back to the dealerships for warranty work because they don't treat my property the same way I do. I've got plenty of personal, jacked-up stories to tell about my vehicles coming back from dealership repair(cough Ford). That's why I mention being hesitant about taking my Q50 back to Infiniti to have them address the rattle in my headliner with my sunroof. I'd get it back and almost for sure see miss-fitment issues, new scratches, dirty hand print stains into the fabric, and likely tool marks left. Things like that drive me nuts so if I can't fix it myself then I will likely live with it. Example: one of my new Volkswagon Jetta's 2.0T, had a issue with a part of one of the rear leather seats. They fixed it but it didn't look anything like when it was new from the factory condition. It looked like crap to me/an otherwise senseless job to them but it was what it was.
You are right. To a degree, cars today protect themselves but with that said look at the popular Q60 youtuber that damaged his motor because he ran it low on oil. He never came out and disclosed he ruined his car's motor but I dug into the internet and found out along with other failures. He had to have it all replaced and the reason why he drove 3 hrs to Austin Infiniti because they replaced it under warranty even though the owner was clearly at fault and it was documented he was tuned and running e-85. That was a $7,000 to 10,000 mistake. There is no way on God's green earth that I would want to buy into a couple of these Q50-Q60 youtubers cars when their lease is over or they trade in their cars to be resold. Someone can come back and say that about me too but I go to great lengths and effort to make sure my car is babied, respected, garage kept, fully detailed each week, its interior is always spotless and fluids are changed based on use and not time tables.
Thanks for reaching out to me! Would be super cool to meet with all these different people and have some fun with our cars and share stories and experiences.
@@GettingthruLife Wow you really had bad luck on that Taurus. The main key in buying a used car is to buy one that still have some factory warranty still left like my current 2016 Q50, which will be expire in about 3 month, but I already done quiet a few mods to where it would be hard for them to honor that warranty. As soon as I got it, I drove the crap out of it every chance I got to see if it would break while the warranty is still left. You are right, it can get really expensive if you get a bad one and no warranty left in it.
And another important thing for buying a used car is to do a lot of research about the particular car make and model. Read car complaints to see what is common issue they have on the particular and know what to look for when buying a car. Such as look at screws, bolts to see if it been disturb or been modified, oil in the coolant, etc. The sells man thought I was crazy when I asked him "Did this bolt factory marked line is off", hehehe. And most important one is don't buy the car that come from the North where there are snow and use salt on the road. But this can be easily spot if you look at the exhaust pipe and muffler. The muffler will rust in days if it been driven in the salted snow. Of course make sure the nut and bolt are not been disturb.
My 14 years old C6 Corvette I bought it used at 40K miles even though with supercharger on and added over 200hp plus about 8 years ago still running like a champ. And my 2012 tundra bought it at 70K miles on the odometer still run without skipping heart beat. Non of these car has seen the shop or dealer as long as I've process other than yearly smoke test and tires and alignment. I still got unresolved recall on C6 for 3 years now have not taken to the dealer yet.
Keep it up, you are doing great. Slow but effective. Your information are better than 90% of other channel I've seen. A lot of them are non sense but entertaining I guess. Thanks
@@zkyzork I liked that ford taurus. It had factory warranty left as it was a ford certified vehicle but the warranty didn't cover that part. I think it was cam chain adjuster or something like that. When I bought it I didn't have to think who own this before me and what did they do to make it faster and more unreliable. I actually put in a full stereo system speakers, amps, subs, head unit, door speakers and rear deck speakers. I can honestly say I did a good install but wasn't as tight as when it left the factory. I had to pull out/cut the door liner plastic seal for one and that allowed moisture to get past those protective barriers. Just one of the handful of things I compromised. Also, I remember my alternator going out where I was left high and dry because older car. had to get it towed to repair shop and a major pain in the ass. When cars go out of warranty that's when things break. Maybe the reason why I buy new and sell/trade when the warranty is near expiring. I negotiate so I don't lose much money versus the convenience factor and reassurance.
I currently own q60 red sport 2020 awd with currently have 17k miles on it. This is my 3rd infiniti. I used to own. G35 2006 awd sedan and g37 2008 coupe. Never have had any kind of issues. Only got scheduled oil changes, break pads, and tires. Other than that never spent any money on anything ☺
People create most of their bad circumstances. Generally, take care of something and it will take care you. Thanks for sharing.
I myself never looked at Infiniti either for performance but I really want a RWD performance sedan and unfortunately there isn’t many to choose from anymore! After looking at my options I think the Q50’s are awesome thanks for the video!
The other performance sedan options like BMW are outrageous in prices and seem to have reliability areas too but are strarting 50k even used. The Q50-60's were at the time when I leased mine, 2019, a phenomenal deal and why I leased with the option to buy. Now i bought it and end up saving money in todays upside down, crazy vehicle market. My car since I bought it new and where I've personally taken care of it with frequent oil changes and its been treated as a valued asset, it's been great and still looks and feel near new. The first few week I installed tge Mishimoto oil catch can. A big deal because limits the buildup of carbonized oil deposits in intake valves. Only takes 10k miles of blowby to junk up those valves from flowing properly.
The downside of the Infiniti Q50-60 is the popularity of the JB4 boost controller, people removing their catalytic converters without the proper tuning and the there is the blow off valve addiction which needs ecu adjustment to have the car function with them. All these three things, plus some early fuel modding has lead to a lot of these cars having issues and then blamed on factory reliability. This is why the Infiniti Q50 has a bad wrap online but owners play a big part in the problem.
Thing is when buying one of these vr30 engines is you want one that's never been molested and treated as jb4 boost vehicle was cats removed damaging tge turbos over time.
check out a jaguar xe 35t its a 3.0 supercharged v6 they come in either awd or rwd
Lexus IS 350
Or even better the Lexus IS 500F v8 sedan. But those would be rare to find used and prob still 50-55k. The Q50's with 3.0 twin-turbo are a good value package if you can find a healthy/well cared for 2019-2021.
@@GettingthruLifem340i sedan is the best sedan for the price the transmission is amizin and the b58 engine is a monster and super reliable
Thank you for the Info man!! I’m Shopping for a Q50 right now but I’m Stuck I don’t know what to do, buy a red sport Or the premium Model. I for sure want the 3.0 though
I think the 3.0T is the forsure choice. A Red Sport sure would be Good! I am racing a un untuned Red Sport in the early A.M. today with full boltons and 93 fuel. Video hopefully to come if everything goes good and I make it back home in one piece.
2014 q50 sport 3.7 the way to go
Both of the motors are good. Just boils down to what's available and the price you want to pay.
@@GettingthruLife could i get one for under 10k?
It would likely have to be a G series infiniti I'm guessing. A 2016 3.0t with some mileage maybe 16-17k
I got a3.7 with 139,000 miles still winning race’s lol no tune 2014 had it for 2years
That's awesome. Thanks for sharing your your experience. A little racing from time to time is fun. I'm never going the same direction as other cars I'd like to have a go at. Also not ever good moments to do a u-turn. I ran across a loud newest gen camaro today but he turned down onto a neighborhood street when I caught up to it. Also a loud 392 charger with some sharp looking wheels a few days ago but in heavy traffic and congested area.
4yrs ago and he's still replying to comments. . .legend .
btw I'm thinking of getting my first car.
have options for pre-owned 20 21 22 and 23 models . .which would you recommend ?
I would say the one that's in the best shape, best records, best history per what you are willing to pay. Pay more for a better car up front and then likely less chance you get a car with pre-existing issues.
Never buy a car from a teenager
Or I say many young folks in their 20-30 y.o. range. Just depends on the individual. These Infiniti cars are sought after to modify which means suspension, lowering and chambered tweaked and raspy loud exhausts. Once a car's suspension is taken all out of wack and driven on it, no thanks on your life do I want it. A lot of used cars/tuner cars have damage that may be hard to see or discover until after you buy it.
As a 40+ year old teenager, good luck buying from me.
@slavko321 acceptable request. Don't buy from the 40+ y.o. teenager, noted.
Looking at getting a 2018 q60. Turbo issues for sure scare me. My friends q50 3.0t alr went thru 2 sets of turbo’s & 1 motor under warranty. Fbo tuned. 50k miles
Did the car always have cattless downpipes without a proper tune before your friend bought the car? Did the car have blowoff valves without proper tuning for extended time? Did your friend have a JB4 before actually tuned or the owner before have these part? Who was the tuner? Those parts I firmly believe contribute to turbo failures when these cars are not properly tuned. Then people add CBE as well with cattless operation and compound the problems. A lot of people who buy these cars go to the internet and hear others talk about got to have catless lower//full dps, CBE and blowoff valves. Adding these things can contribute to turbo and issues without proper tuning from one of the experience and trusted tuners.
Also did your friend change his oil every 5k mileage or more like 10-11k mileage? Did he always keep an eye on his fluid levels? Did/does your friend mistreat his car and do things like smoky donuts in the parking lots or bash on it hard everytime his foot hits the pedal? Lots of things can contribute to how a car runs and performs over time.
If you buy into a good vr30 that was taken care of plus when you get it you take care of it, then less chance of future problems and headaches.
@@GettingthruLife actually he got the car with 20k miles, did basic bolt ons, got tuned by z1. Had problems with the z1 tune. So he switched to Martin at RS. Just regular down pipes. Lower I should say. He eventually added turbo smart BOV kit from CZP
You look very good for 50 years old i would guess 40s
Thanks...I feel ive aged more last 3 years much quicker. I've always been told I look really young so maybe that's a part of why I grew facial hair. Used to be a full, much longer beard but I get mistaken for a homeless person. Last few years my eye sight took a dive, my cardio took a dive and my resistance to heat went bye bye. Good things is I'm on no medications, no recreational drugs and no alcohol and life's still good.
You did this right..
Glad to see someone that looks at modding a car for more reliability. Milage?
Having a tune didn't bother voiding warranty that if something happened it could cause engine damage
Thanks for the info and video. I have a 2016 Q50RS that is nearly full bolt-on. I'm scheduled to take it to Z-1 Motorsports at the end of this month to have full AMS aluminum drive shaft, full down pipes, BOVs, and AMS expansion tank installed. They are also going to dyno and tune it. Also recently had a water pump and both turbos replaced under warranty. Was wondering what your thoughts are on the new solid state transmission mounts that folks have just started installing on their Qs. Supposedly reduces drivetrain loss and shifts are firmer. But saw another comment on a forum that suggested that the solid mount vs the OEM one that contains a bushing may lead to stress fractures in the transmission housing or other unintended issues. Thanks again.
There's always more to be said, a better way to say it or that I could try to go into but the video gets long and people complain (I understand). Making videos can be tough. Yeah, your cars sounds fast right now not to mention when you get all those other go-fast goodies installed. I can't even come close to putting my current power down so until I can I'm just going to focus on getting good rear tires/drag radials. I'm hoping these Nitto NT555RII drag radials are the answer to my lack of traction. Knowing my luck, I will still spin and be out another $700 for two tires and install/balance. I am also thinking AMS driveshaft or similar because I don't want to have the factory DS fail and then damage the underside of the car when/if it breaks. I can see it now (should have, would have, could have). I'm also interested in the in the fender AMS expansion tank or waiting for someone to come out with a heavy duty, plastic built tank like the current oem reservoir tanks. Save a couple $100. Also, I have been thinking even before "boost in motion", the chiller killer device. There are people here on different cars, 5.0's, Dodge 392 and hellcats 6.2 running them. the ultimate in IAT cooling. This is all down the road for me and depending on money and seeing these troubling times.
As far as firming up the transmission mounts and even the motor mounts that would be taking it over the top for me. Any sort of comfort and ride quality goes out the window. I installed the Boomba Racing brand aftermarket rear motor mount in my Focus ST and for a month I was like holy freaking cow. It killed the comfort level but that all depends on what you want to accomplish and what you are will to live with to achieve your goals. There were people that also went firm engine mounts and that would have blown my mind and drove me insane driving that around daily. Now if purely a race/track vehicle then a whole different story. With my Z1 motorsports bushing collars installed, there are some times depending on the road were I wish I could revert back to Infiniti's ultra plush, full-floating rear subframe bushings but its not a deal killer. I can only bet/assume that taking away the movement/flex of the transmission would make for a bunch of NVH but should add the performance aspect. All up to you...let me know if you get this and what you thoughts are.
Had my 2016 for two years now, almost paid off, no issues besides changing car battery twice so far
Nice, batteries no fun to buy..
@@GettingthruLife not at all. Grabbed a three year warranty this time however
@@phil_8367 smart !
Is 86,000 miles on a 2016 red sport worth 27k?
I'd say no. Not worth spending 27k plus tax.
I found a 2017 Q60 for 15.2k with 134k miles would you think this car still have a lot of life left? Lets say the owner took amazing care of it what is your opinion?
do your research and do-diligence to verify the car is in the usable condition you expect it to be. I have years of seeing comments, experiences, situations that buyer get into and it doesnt turn out well or how they expected. Pays huge benefits to buy a 3.0T/infiniti that's been looked after. Twin turbo V6's are good when healthy but abused and neglected v6 turbo engines can be a disappointment. Obviously reason why good ones are more expensive then the neglected ones. Steer clear of auction bought, shady title, reconditioned, salvage title unless you are ready for added expenses.
Not sure if you bought it already but I would tell you most definitely not to buy it
thats way too high for that mileage
Love the video man, great car too! Can I ask if there's a rattle snake next to your camera, b/c the background noise makes it sound like so XD
I’m cross shopping a RS400 vs a Scatpack 392 also. I definitely will miss the exhaust and vented seats. I don’t care about heated seats in Dallas.
I here ya. Here in Dallas in 2018-2019 it was nearly impossible to find 392's at any of the dealerships. The 5.7's and V6 were all over the place. I could tell jacked up stories from the 7-8 dealerships I called and visited from North, west, east and south. The dealership down the street from me quoted the only way you could drive a 392 charger or challenger is to do the paperwork and then commit to buying it/be pre approved financing then you can drive to see if you like. It was an awful experience shopping at Dodge and Ford.
There is about 6-7 months when it can feel good to flip on the heated seats and steering wheel but I hear what you are saying. The air cooled seat would be nice to have/try. I've not owned a car or a truck with air vented seats. That what really sucks about the southern, central states...it gets 19 to 25 degrees cold and then freakishly hot. No break from one, suffer thru both.
Been looking for a used 50/60 redsport. Finding alot of them have salvage or rebuilt titles... like 80% of them
I'd stay far away from those unless you can afford problems and unknowns. Sane for auction cars. No there a flood cars more than ever going around with no documentation of water/salt water damage.
This is what i am saying, literally looking at q50s RS awd rn and ofc all of them are rebuilt but you gotta pick from the best ones and actually take a look of them IRL + pay or get someone who knows cars and may have second "unbiased" opinion on the car and go from there!. Going to take a look at 3 next week up in Florida. As in Massachusets all of them are from NY and rebuilt titles or just BEAT ON cars, went tru 5+ winters with salts and etc.
Goated@@pigeonmaster2703
Anything Infiniti gets a like comment and subscribe
Turbos n tensioner is the main issues I've seen
Turbos have been updated '19 plus models so more of a 16-18 year model shortcoming. The one serpentine belt seems to only last about 30K miles so it's a no-brainer to keep an eye on it around that time plus if an unusual noise coming from that area then a good idea to change before it breaks and causes other damage.
All great points!!! Love your knowledge of the brand! About to hit 100000 on my 2016!
100k miles and still enjoying is a good sign. Thanks for posting comments!
Ain’t going to lie I was sleeping watching u talk please just get to the point on future videos
or better yet if you dont vibe with my style then don't watch. Video was not based on your sole needs and expectations. (try making your own video/s and see what the whole process is like) Biggest complainers are people with zero content of their own, you are just one out of hundreds of examples)
@@GettingthruLife relax homie That was content criticism and you should listen to criticism if you want to improve your content I didn’t mean any hate with my comment you could’ve used many cut in the video to make it more energetic I don’t think your watch time on this video was good at all+ this my Side job I edit video for successful RUclipsrs
100 thieves e sports
Miniminter clips
Tbjzl
Sentinel’s
Team liquid valorant
And many more that I cant disclose because of confidential reasons
All I wanted was to see if q50 was reliable to buy one for my sister and your video bored me out hope you can take this as criticism and improve from it. Respect
My videos are not an advertisement, a sponsored video or a professional presentation. I makes videos for pure fun whether it's 10 people watching or 20,000. I am more likely to accept ideas and critiques from an individual that walk a similar path, like tries themselves to make video content. If you had videos of your own and you put the time in doing so, then you would definitely be less vocal and more understanding. Videos for many are story telling were not everybodies going to vibe with the story. Common sense then says move on.
I do my best to get to the point and make good, the best content but not everthing works out like you see it in your head. If you made videos and spent hours editing and uploading then you'd get it.
@@GettingthruLife I do agree with you. The way he sent his "constructional criticism" has an insult on top of it.
99.8 percent of youtubers don't respond to viewers but I feel obligated many times. Apart of the youtube experience. Car/vehicle related content brings with it many harsh and critical viewers. Also, firearm cobtent viewers are their own breed too. Making videos is fun and rewarding but some people tend to suck the fun/enjoyment out of the experience.
I am looking to buy a 2017 Q50 with around 30-40k miles from a dealership . Would this car be good with a cat back exhaust and just intakes I live in Miami so its around 85-90 everyday.
Hey Niko...If you like the looks of this car and the interior meets your needs then get it. I really love my '19 Q50 which is essentially the same car as the 2017 3.0T. The car runs great in 20 degree weather up to 110 degree outside temps so don't worry. The concern with the heat is when it comes to drag racing the car and have it be as fast as it has the potential to go. Turning up the boost past the RS 400 is when temps become a bigger issue. These Q50-Q60 3.0T's will easily handle your favorite CBE, wheels, AMS intake kit but just always run 92-93 octane fuel.
If buying from the dealership just ask questions like do they know the owner who traded in the car? Did they buy this car from an auction? Was it a lease turn in? Do they have any "in the computer -Infiniti- maintenance records on the car, check the oil dip stick/level/color of oil, drive it for an hour or so around town, make sure the aircon works good, make sure it shift well and in the different shift modes, flip all the buttons, look underneath the car well for abuse/impacts/damage/rough use, check coolant level and heat exchanger level and even better ask to remove the plastic cover that leads to the airboxes and check the filters. If clean good, if grimy/caked with dust and dirt then I'd reconsider the purchase. See what tires are on the car. If replaced with factory runflats you will likely want to replace those first. Exhaust, CBE, is something you can do next but I don't recommend a hacked up exhaust job.
Don't fall into the pit of despair and feel you need BOV's to save your car. Save your $600.00. Anyone that knows cars for the lively hood will agree in some way that BOV's are mostly for their fast and furious sound. (These cars didn't come with them for a reason/auto transmission/electronic wastegates and factory tuning calibrations that even carry over to tuned cars) Get them if you love the sound and they make you happy but they add zero performance advantage. Kind of the same story with 3.0T Intakes but I feel they can benefit a ecu tuned car more. Maybe some drop-in, oil-less filters $120.00.
Getting thru Life thanks for the recommendations. I was also looking and they say the heat exchangers are laughable so i was planning on buying a heat and cat back and just keeping it there from performance mods and adding wheels and coilovers later on.
Getting thru Life and throughout your video you said the car is reliable but i’ve had some people tell me it’s not that reliable. But i’m pretty they are saying that to people who aren’t really performing maintenance as they should
@@Niko-sp1rf If you dive deeper into the background of these people, you will likely see that they don't own this car or have little experience with the Infiniti brand. I see all the time, close to 15-18 year old infiniti vehicles driving around where most of these look really good and taken care of and still appear to be very nice vehicles. Has a lot to do with the owner. I know my car doesn't have a lot of miles on it but I've owned other new car with multiple problems that arose in the time that I've owned my '19 Q50. A lot of problems are brought on by improper use and abuse.
@@GettingthruLife yeah the only thing is that I have a heavy foot so I like to step on it a bit like everyone does.
But other than that I'm not stepping on it everyday all day its usually like when im with friends or open road.
would you recommend buying a used 2021 q50s with 37,000 miles?
Depends on many unknown variables to me. Aaking price depending on your budget, condition, user history, who's selling it. I'd likely myself only buy a certified pre-owned Infiniti from a well established Infiniti dealership. As far as market price that depends on this incredibly messed up economy and the monthly changing vehicle industry. The year 2020 was the last year you wouldn't get screwed buy/leasing/finance a vehicle.
I bought a used 2016 Q50 3.0T with 40k miles on it and I'm getting 21.1mpg. I've seen other VR30 owners getting around 15mpg, so it's safe to say the previous owner took somewhat good care of the car right?
Only problem I noticed is the hot air blowing down to my feet while driving (I remember talking to you about this on one of your previous videos), someone suggested taking it to my Infiniti dealer to get a bigger Heat Exchanger. hopefully that solves the problem. but other than that, no problems, car is riding smooth
Yes I remember our discussion. Yeah I don't know why hot air is blowing down into the footwells at all times. That happens when I turn the heat on and direct climate control to blow air in that area only. Sounds like an aircon electronic system issue. Also the car's heat exchanger wouldn't have anything to do with hot air blowing into the cabin. The heat exchanger and intercoolers cools the intake compressed air leaving the turbos and then forced into the cylinders.
Fixing a climate control part failure could be an easy fix or a very expensive fix with parts with labor.
I range about 22-26mpg around town/city but a really congested city in high, high traffic I'm sure that will drop my mpg sitting more at traffic lights. 15 mpg and I be really disappointed and pissed. Mpg's will drop when the intake valves become coated in carbon and oil deposits. Reason to get a oil catch installed while these cars are new to limit any buildup. A car that already has carbon buildup on intake valves needs to have them cleaned and then a guality oil catch can added as prevention.
Check if he changed the front windshield, usually they are related
super informative thank you.
The key is buy your mods you plan to be running example (downpipes, BOV's, cat-back exhaust, heat exchanger, air box/intake and or fuel system needs) and then budget, spend the money to get tuned within a few months to properly tune the car to make it run well and last. Ecutek software with one of the trusted and respected Infiniti 3.0t tuners for the parts you added. The minimum stuff these cars needs (Q50-60 3.0t), a tune and an upgraded heat exchanger ($400+1,400-1500). These 2 things alone will transform this car from 300-310 whp to 425-430 whp. CBE plus downpipes tuned together get you up a little more 445-450 whp. Catless lower downpipes alone don't add much more hp, sad reality. The key is you also have to have a performance minded cat-back 2.5" to 3" exhaust to match up to those 2.5-3" downpipes to see any real gain plus be tuned to keep turbos running properly and have healthy motor.
I'm 20 and plan on getting a 2017 q60 red sport with 45k miles, is it worth it? Also parts for Infiniti are cheap as well compared to Audi and BMW correct?
I think these Infiniti cars are worth it. If you like the interior, ride quality, the exterior looks/style then the car shouldn't disappoint. Just be aware the car has 45K of someone else's miles and care on it. Do your home work on the car and buy it from a reputable dealership with history of doing and being in business. If you buy it from an individual ask questions like are you the cars first owner? Where did the car come from if you are the second or third owner, maintenance records, ask/pay a dealership to look the car up in their Infiniti records. I hear those others cars are more expensive to maintain and cost more for repairs. Have someone look at that serpentine belt and make sure that's in good condition or been replaced. Your at that mileage mark. Inspect the airfilters and check oil level and color. check that everything works and I mean everything. Touch everything. Lay on your back and look under the car and look for impacts and damage from curbs and debris impacts. make sure exterior panels line up. Look for repainted inner edges of body work(door, hood, truck) to help spot bodywork repairs. Hope this helps. 3.0t motor and added Redsport boost makes for enjoyment.
My biggest concern is reliability. Trying to decide between the infiniti Q50 red sport 400 and the Dodge challenger R/T scat pack or lastly a acura Tlx v6 all 2018 to 2020 model years. Not sure which is best for the price.
Challenger and Q50-60 two different spectrums. I was looking at 2018-19 GT 5.0 10-speed and 392 Chargers before I went in the Infiniti dealership because of my Nissan trucks being financed.
The infiniti brand is good, it's just many of the individuals buying these Q50-60's. People messing with the electronics, suspension and cattless downpipes with no proper tune. If people just lefts these cars alone then far less potential failures.
Just try to get an unmolested Q50-60 or buy new. All these cars that have had turbo failures are because of the owners. Serpentine belt failure isn't a deal breaker but people just need to be aware at about 30k might need to be replaced and put back on correctly with proper alignment.
how is the Infiniti holding up? is everything still functioning good?
2019+ in up models are for sure that’s why then started changing stuff up
lol. Shit has been the same for many years and are not reliable if you start modding them.
I bought my Q50 new and my 2019 Q50 Luxe now has 82k miles. I drive a lot of highway miles. I've had my JB4 since 20k miles or less I can't remember, but I've had no serious issues with the car. I did have a coolant leak issue when it was summer here in California but I used a Barr's stop leak and haven't had a reoccurring issues.
@@Executiveinvestments- lmao idek what I was talking bout I have a whole scat pack 😂😂😂😂
That's so untrue but believe what you want to. You definitely got bad Intel. If you bought a car from a person before you and they didn't take care of it or they put on downpipes, blowoff valves and JB4 without proper tuning then they shortened the life of the turbos. Must have a proper tune from a reputable tuner if you modify boost parameters or remove catalytic converters or add blowoff valves so the ecm can be calibrated..
I hate reviews that are made with cars with low miles that doesn't help & from what I understood u don't really drive it cause u don't want wear & tear on it so what's the point of the review
Hey retardt, I have other videos with additional years of driving this car. I cant make everyone happy so you hate it, click off and dont watch, move on is what i revommend. .You just clicked on one video of mine. I have 175 video i recall on this one car.on a side note I have been driving 37 years and had other new cars where I didnt drive them into the ground either and they have had failures, issues and recall/tsb one after tge other. All under 10-15k miles. This car has had zero in 22k miles. If you don't want to believe my experience, judgement or opinion since I own and use since 2019 then don't get a Infiniti Q50-60. It doesn't matter to me. My Q50 is the best car I've ever owned or out of 50 new cars I've rented over the last 3 years for travel and work.
Online professional youtube channels that review cars short/long term don't put 35-50k miles on a car and review them and share their advice on their owership/reliability experiences. Most are held onto and driven for 10,000 miles.
Great Review man, I hope you upload more detailed videos about this car.
I am planning on doing a 2 year update. Maybe tomorrow I will crank it out.
cars are like people. we never quite feel the same or as tight after surgery.
He he, yep.
Hello, ive been looking into buying a 2020 Q50 Red Sport and just wanted to know how long you owned this car for or do you still own it and if so, how has it treated you in terms of long term reliability? How many miles have you put on it? Just seeing a lot of turbo failure horror stories and not really seeing any of these for sale over 90k miles, which has me worried its not that reliable as I've been wanting to upgrade to a newer daily driver (I average about 12-14k a year). Great video btw, very informative
@mynameed7720 I had my car almost 5 yrs. I didn't like to put excessive miles on it and I had other transportation. Driving a vehicke high mileage and putting wear and tear happens with excessive miles. More opportunitiesfor accidents, rick chips, door dings, hail, worn out tires, bent wheels, worn outsuspebsiin, potholes... I liked mine to be mint looking and feeling. Most of the new cars with smaller displacment motors and turbos to maje up power loss, plus all comptuteted controlled are not realisticly 150-200k mile cars. I loved my car bought new. Buying used means you are buying into what the 1 or 2nd owner didn't do and how the treated it. Many many, many people don't change their oil and drive 25k, 30k even up to 40k. Ruibs the motor and turbos. These motors and turbos need oil changes every 5-6k mileage.
If you are looking to buy a used 35-50k mileage Q50 3.0t and plan on puting 15-20k miles a year and plan on keeping another 5-7 years, then I'd look elsewhere.
I'd say if you bought new and planned on driving next 5-6years then definitely the car would be great. Under warranty 6 yr drive train and 4 yr general warranty. Many Many Many people lease these as I did, but they do very little if at all to take care of them. I loved mine so much I bought mine when 3 yr lease was up. In short the jerk people, they use up the car in 3 yrs and then hand them off scott free and the next person buys into the neglected car. That's why so many people have issues. Most people buying these and are online and talking about them, they bought them used and bought crappy cars.
Talk to people who bought new and they did their maintance and they valued and loved their Q50, you will see a much different ownership experience and see a much better car.
@@GettingthruLife Thankyou for your detailed response! The Q50's I've been looking at are at around that 30k miles, 1-2 owner mark, I have a range for price of roughly $30k and I always try to see the service record provided on those listings. I would definitely be using this as a daily driver (about a 22 mile commute to my work and 22 miles from my work to home all highway miles). Would definitely buy a bumper to bumper warranty if I purchased a Q50, I just love the styling on these cars 😁 thankyou again for your response
@mynameed7720 Get a genuine infiniti warranty and not a 3rd party extended warranty. A 2020 will still have some powertrain/ full engine and turbo coverage.
I keep hearing you can’t drive these cars hard or you’ll blow a turbo what do you think is replacing a turbo gonna be something I have to do right away ?
Most people buy these cars used from somebody else and have no clue how it was driven, kept, wrecked, proper repairs made, maintenance done so you can get get an unloved car/performance oriented, turbo engine this way. It's the nature if the beast.
If I were going to buy a 5.0, 392, Hellas, corvette, Camaro, Supra, M2/3/4...I'd be pretty picky.
Since it's a sizable investment, I'd likely buy my used Q50-Q60 from a reputable dealership who offers CPO or other options with warranty or extended warranty.
Just look at yourubers/Facebook who moddded their cars improperly/sort of properly from the repair shop around the corner and them wore their cars down/out after 35-45k on odometer and developed mechanical issues. They turn around and sell/trade back in/ get out of lease and then pass on the problems to the unknown new buyer.
@@GettingthruLife so your saying q50 are reliable ? And a q50 is still an investment for me at least 30 k is a big buy for me to have problems down the road you know
@@Deadmatt777 if you find one that's not seriously tagged on, modded incorrectly, fluids need to have been maintained. Hard to do with a used car with 25-40,000 miles already on it. My car I have written down and dated my oil changes in the back of the manual. Changed every 4k or abouts because there were times I raced the car on a variety of occasions. Adult owned, one owner, garage kept is an indication that a car might have been taken better care of.
Run these cars low on oil and you don't just hurt/hamper the engine, you hurt the two turbos. One YT Q60 owner ran his car with low oil and had to have his motor replaced if I'm not mistaken.
Buy a Certified pre-owned car is my advice. Pay more now but serious piece of mind is worth a price.
Heck yah, 10k, 20k and 30k is all investment money. Moment doesn't grow on a tree for me or Line my pockets. Bottoming, need to buy the right car/vehicle...do your homework. Ask a bunch of questions and look for documentation.
@@Deadmatt777 I've had my car bought new, almost now 3 years. Two years ecutek tuned 19-20 psi and I've had zero issue. 5 years from now will I be able to say that if I still have this car, I don't tell the future. In my opinion, if you buy/get a healthy car and you take care of it too, then it's highly likely to be a reliable car. You abuse it and don't maintain it then likely with medium to higher mileage on it, it won't be a good vehicle. Always try to buy as an unmolested vehicle as possible, because the more owners mess with the factory package the more problems down the road. Not all labor, installs and Uninstaller on the same level.
@@GettingthruLife thanks for the reply’s imma look into all this ✌🏻 big help
I read online on the turbo life span being 100k And if you drive harder it will break sooner? So if I get a 60k miles q50 I’ll be stuck with a turbo replacement by 75k
yes
I don't know if that's the rules of thumb to live by. 2016 to 2918 turbos are not as stout as 2019 and newer as there was a revision/update. My word if advice Stat away from JB4 and if you are buying a higher mileage 3.0t than tuning to higher boost levels may mean replacing turbos sooner.
I want to buy my first car and I'm debating on weather its worth putting the money for a q50 or I just get a g37
@@FCLS.v I'd probably save some money and try to find a nice G37. Seems tough to find a looked after and unmolested 2017-2019 Q50 3.0t.
Who tuned ur car? My old g37 FBO was tuned by Vinny Ten racing then admin tuning then Eugene Turkov on ecutek. Wonder who was your tuner. Enjoy the beautiful car
At first got the car tuned by Joteck Motorsports Dallas/Garland TX because close, local and they tune many high end turbo cars. Anyway, they did a subpar job because Infiniti 3.0t not their cup of tea. I contacted Hussain at Racebox over a year ago and had him tune my car with 93 octane and basically 2.5 CBE.
You’re making just under 500hp on a stock tune?
I'm tuned with Ecutek. Sorry if i made that confusing in the video.
Getting thru Life no worries! how much more HP are you making after the tune? I was thinking of doing a stock tune to start off with
@@emmanuelmartinez5588 At 3000k miles I got my car tuned at a controversial premiere import shop here in Dallas, Tx. I have a map that has hp at 510 and Tq at 513. I don't use that map currently. I opt to use the 470 hp (at motor) map and 510 tq map. My intentions are not to not over stress the motor where I'm also not running the car ultra-hard in race-like conditions for long periods of time. I have my all my CAT's for emissions and the stock downpipes for warranty purposes. I'm sticking with regular gas 93 octane where the 500hp and torque is my limit while trying to keep my car running and driving daily. This car Q50 and Q60 should be still capable to hold together at slightly higher numbers than the Redsport model which I am at. Anything more and one should start looking to add tougher driveshaft, axles, and transmission and then even beefier turbos for more reliability and performance.
Getting thru Life wow that’s really cool, I appreciate the knowledge
@@emmanuelmartinez5588 I'm only partially knowledgeable. I look at a lot of stuff online. I try to be accurate but sometimes maybe I don't have something right. I come out and say I'm sorry I got it wrong if I do.
Hey Bryan how are you , I 1:20 have a quick question, I noticed my q60 have a lil whit smoke from my muffler delete . What do you think it may be , is this a sign of turbo failure
@torvarrisevans9334 Questions to ask, did you buy your car new? Buying used/pre-owned leaves a lot of unknowns. V6 turbo engines need more care and attention. It pretty much all the new engines.
Have you kept up with oil changes?
Have you not allowed your car to run low on oil?
Have you been keeping hx/radiator coolant fluid at proper levels?
I found it hard to tell what was going out my exhaust due to different weather, different temps between months, different weight oil used 0w-20 vs 5w-30, fresh morning start vs afternoon start, cold start vs warmed up start...
Ultimately, for best and most accurate diagnosis, I'd set up an appointment at Infiniti to get their certified advice.
One way I think that will give you an idea if your car has a big issue is that your fluids, oil and or coolant, is disappearing or needing to be topped off more often.
If your fluids are/have been stay pretty consistent and you have been changing your oil every 5-6k then less likely to have issues.
If you bought a pre-owned car with 30+ miles then damage could have been done before you bought it. Many, many people don't change their oil and they can run their car low on oil.
@@GettingthruLife ok thank you Bryan , unfortunately I bought it pre owned I live in the Bahamas. No warranty. What are the signs of a failing turbo seal or turbo. I didn’t notice no lost of coolant or anything thing . But I only have a muffler delete and I noticed lil smoke at idle but not while driving.
@torvarrisevans9334 Wow, live in the Bahamas, nice. Oil seal leak on a turbo is a possibility. If so, it means a new, used or a reconditioned turbo or turbos is in your future. Is oil level dropping on your dipstick per a month? Do you see More than usual dirty residue on exhaust tips?
My car over a few months would dirty up my chrome Magnaflow inner tips. If it's a normal 80 dgree day and your car is emitting clearly white/grey smoke then something more is going on. I would think it would steadily emit smoke not just at startup. Most cars smoke a little more at startup. Also, it could be oil slipping past a piston ring or rings from excessive wear on the cylinder walls. Caused by oil problems or low oil or worn out oil.
Really, the only way to know is to tear into the motor, get a close look at the turbos or use a borescope and look into the cylinders through sparkplug holes.
Maybe after driving, smell for burnt oil smell under the hood. Loss of oil on your lipstick could also show losing oil.
I'm not 100% sure about this but you could pull you airboxes and coupler tube's that connect right up to the turbo inlet and look for possible oil residue on the impeller. If a seal is leaking into the exhaust side of the turbo then possible leaking into the intake side. (It does require about 2hrs time and long socket extension helps plus swival joint to do.)
One aspect of replacement is there are a few different bolt-on aftermarket turbo options RT/Z1 motorsports/ second hand salvage theu internet.
Just don't want to get to the point that metal shards and small pieces of metal could be sent into the motor from impeller wear or wobble.
Only good way to know for more certain is have a good mechanic shop or better yet infiniti dealership investigate. Better to catch sooner than later.
@@GettingthruLife thank you Bryan I appreciate the advice. I will a machanic shop to check it out because it only happens at idle , just a little bit of smoke if you rev it up
Looking at a 2018 3.0t 48k miles for 23,245. It is a 1 owner car then turned into a rental car. Should I be worried that is was a pervious rental car?
Sounds like a good deal. For 23,245 in today's used market place. Who's selling the car? A rental car can mean it wasn't loved on. I drive rental cars all the time and tire pressures are way off like my last one 55 pounds of air in front tire and 31 in tge other 3. Also I see oil changes that are way over due according to the maintenance stickers. Many people just don't respect things, all things they touch.
Bust thing to do if you like this car, the inside as well as outside, check key items: radiator fill tank level, heat exchanger fill tank fluid level (a mark/level indicated on them proper level), check oil level proper, check oil color (not blackish), look under the car very well for heavy rust/impact areas, damage, massive grime, oil reside spots, check tire wear that it's consistent all four tires/equal tread inside tire vs outside, check interior/sunroof/trunk signs for rain leaks, verify one owner though car fax can be misinformation too, look at body panel edges for paint lines means paint repair/accident minor-major.
Drive around and 20 minutes stop and go traffic and makes sure blowing hot and cold air.
where did u find this
@@GettingthruLife it’s listed at a previous rental vehicle dealership. I was worried that it hadn’t been treated well, as it was a rental car. I test drove the car it was very nice fully loaded. Should I be worried about the turbos if I pull the trigger?
@@GettingthruLife I am also looking at a 2015 3.7 with 65k miles, 2 owner car, good car fax. At a dealership as well. Would you recommend the 3.0t or the 3.7?
In my opinion buying an Infiniti certified pre owned is the way to go then secondly if they have a non certified pre-owned Infiniti. More of a gamble otherwise as who knows what about the car. If you buy from a Infiniti dealership the bonus is they can look up records/history/service. Buying from a random car rental place is a gamble but I wouldn't say that's always a bad way to buy. Just depends on the vehicle. To find out you have to inspect the vehicle properly. Got to do homework when buying cars in different situations for other situations.
Turbo damage, excessive turbo wear comes from either lack of oil changes, car being pushed in extreme situations or previous owner altering the way the motor and turbos perform which when done happens at about 35-45k mileage.
Also 2, at about the 35k-40k mark is when most people drive the new car and sell whereby avoiding having to deal with maintenance which affects reliability/operation down the road. Auto transmission fluid, rwd/awd differential oil, serpentine belt inspection/replace, airfilter inspect/replace....
Buying used is many times a gamble because of unknowns but if done intelligently can be done and money can be saved because reduction in fees, taxes and not paying thenew car price. Reason I bought/went new and then when my lease was up, if I still liked the car experience I could buy. If I was one of those who used and abused their car, used up the newness then many escape the aftermath by dumping their car and walking away, then doing/repeating the process over again.
I don't think or feel there is really one car 3.0t vs 3.7 that is more reliable than the other. I do feel the 3.7 sounds better but the turbo 3.0 is more fun and has more room to grow for adding more fun factor to the motor, but needs to be done right, a investment.
Stay away from a 3.0t that's had blowoff valves, stock/factory catalytic converters removed and had a Burger Motorsports JB boost controller added. How do you know, buying used? You don't, you can only look for tale tale signs which can be difficult to see. Reason to buy new or buy from a trusted source.
To run those parts above, a 3.0t needs to be tuned/ adjusted by a reputable tuner for those modifications. Many don't want to spend that 1,400 to 1,700 dollars and therefor take the shortcut which can cause problems down the road for the next owner or the 3rd owner.
I’m thinking about buying a 2016 q50 3.0t awd premium, for 9500 with 80k miles from dealer … do you think it’s worth it???
@d3annax449 look at these things to get an idea if your used car you are looking to buy is worth it. ruclips.net/video/bYLeZSPRS-c/видео.htmlsi=TecYqXvg-jz71izo
2018 q60 with 32k mile certified pre owned is it worth it?
Great video too
I would say in general the car is a great all around car but if it's a good deal is a huge, broad question. It depends on your opinion of nice and condition. When it comes to my definition of nice and worthy of my money, I want my car to look as close to off the showroom floor new condition. Of course theirs going to be wear and imperfections from ownership but does it meet you standards now. Is the paint good, had the front of the car been cared for and not splattered in rock chips, door ding free, scratch free around the trunk and doors from care of putting things in the trunk/ getting in and out, how do the leather seat look, how do the interior surface look, is the motor clean, what does the under side condition look like, have you checked the oil level/smell/color, look at the airfilter condition.
Be ready to soon need oil change, serpentine belt change, soon rear diff oil, soon transmission flush, maybe new tires especially if still the factory runflats.
I'm not shopping for these cars but price maybe low 20"s if appears taken care off and less wear and tear. Since from a real dealer with extended factory warranty and they stand behind the car, probably asking 25k-27. All depends on many variables.
I love and enjoy the heck out my my car. Drives so nice and feels solid and quality. I go above and beyond to protect it and keep it clean and fluids new and correct levels.
If you can get it for what you feel you can afford monthly and comfortable with, you should be happy.
Just look all over the car and get personal with it. Look inside wheel wells at brakes and suspension, get on your back and look under the car for things that damage, scuffs, cracks, impacts. Look at exterior panel gaps and look for paint lines indicating repainting.
If everything lines up with your standard's and the payments/financing then should be a good move.
@@GettingthruLife Thank you for the advice. It’s either between the q60 or a Jeep Wrangler
Again thank you I will take a deep look when I go test drive
@@OBEYALLSTARS See now you stated Q60 instead of Q50 so more $ than I quoted. I don't know what these cars go for used with various miles so Im really guessing or what I be willing to pay. 2018 30k miles in the market we are in were used vehicles are fetching a premium price maybe 35-37k for that used '18 Q60 which is CPO. Dealership do charge top dollar of course.
I drove/ rented a jeep Cherokee upper model trail rated blah blah, where it was nice but I wasn't impressed. Good vehicle to rent but not for me to own. Wobbly suspension with ton of body movement/roll and a real lack precision experience compared to my Q50 sedan which is my benchmark which I judge other vehicles. I was renting a lot of cars 2018-2019 early 2020 and nothing I rented compared to my '19 Q50 Sig Edition. I really liked a Nissan Altima SR loaded car that I rented for a business trip and it drove so nicely and was super comfortable. That's what got me to go to Infiniti after visiting Nissan dealership who was playing insane hardball on their prices. Glad it worked out the way it did because I'm super happy, even close to 2 years later that I opted to get the Infiniti.
I have 2017 Q50S 405HP, awd. The car is mine since dealership to the present time. I run 64 000kms. I have no problems with engine..., but I know at least 3 same cars where engine die because of overheating, with mileage below 40k kms((( I think the main problem is that we have same radiator/engine heat exchanger as 2.0t... Nissan was trying to unify the cars but owners are to pay for this....(((
Im thinking about getting a 2017 q50 as well how would you say the reliability is? I don’t want a car that will need a lot of maintenance
These cars in general compared to what's out there don't need much. Getting a reliable car depends on many things like first buying a taken care of vehicle. You can do lots of things to make sure you are not buying into a inferior vehicle. If the Q50 or Q60 you want to by has more than 30k miles then you want to verify the serpentine belt replacement status.get someone who is well educated in buy vehicles and even better someone who has history with Infiniti products. Other than that buy new and then don't have to worry for 3 years. The bad thing with these and most cars is people don't change their oil often enough based on their use.
how many miles do u got i drive alot around 40k a year do u think this car would last 100+k miles
40k a year is on the extreme side for a year. I would likely say not a 40k a year car unless you bought brand new and did oil changes every 7k. It's not an endurance type of motor. I drive about 7k a year because I have other vehicles and I tend to rent for business which is most of my mileage last 4-5yrs.
I'd say buy a Toyota Camry or a Honda Accord to pound out serious miles and keep cost as low as possible 87 octane and 35-40 mpg.
I need help I’m looking forward to buy a 2018 Q50 with 70k miles tuned exhaust upgraded intercooler any comments on that?
So no an 2018 and up don’t have the ctv transmission right ?
I just bought one and I wouldn’t buy it used like that it probably only has a good 20k miles on it left before something messes up and the warranty is gonna be gone by then
No Infiniti Q50/Q60 has a CVT transmission
So if someone were to get one like myself, would 2019 be the best year to get one? Since the other years had turbo issues? I keep reading that the turbos blow on the other years but I don’t know much about the 2019 year
Turbos don't really blow up. Turbos on many cars are touchy. Turbos spin at insane high rpm and deal with extremes. Supposedly, 2019 verses 2016-2018 got revised turbos but I have not been able to confirm what updates were made. Common issues for wear are people don't change their engine oil enough for the conditions they drive. These turbos use the same oil for lubrication. Worn out oil then worn out turbos. Oil seals on these little turbos wear out and can leak. The waste gate flapper door mechanism can wear out and impeller wheels can develop play/wobble over years of use.
Over time and with extended use, happens to most lower spec/mid spec oem factory built turbos. Note if you buy an earlier year model car then it has more use and miles so point is to buy the newest car you can so less overall wear.
(If a car/vehicle, the parts that move and spin see less extended high rpm's over years of use -racing the engine-putring under more stress, then the turbo internals as well as the rest of the engine will tend to last longer.) Just practical thinking. Good lubrication is also an important key to longevity. Buy any vehicle and dive the snot out of it, then going to need to typically do more maintenance. 4 and 6 cylinder engines in general work harder the old school V8's to produce similar performance so over time they encounter more stress and wear and tear. Upside, 4 and 6 cylinder turbo charged engines maje good power and get better fuel economy than V8's.
@@GettingthruLife oh alright! I just wondered what the best years were and coming from you having it tuned and taken care of your car of course. Would you recommend the q60 in general besides some of the problems?
Same exact internals in a Q60 vs a Q50. I recently elected to have my turbos replaced under warranty due to turbo wastegate rattle. My car worked fine but the startup rattle was not favorable sounding but not a big deal. I just elected to have them replaced. These cars have pretty good warranties. 4 year overall car warranty and 60k motor/powertrain warranty.
Always try to buy from an Infiniti dearship with a trusted reputation is key. Not roadside car lot or other dealerships just selling auction inventory products peoples unknown trade ins.
what size tires and wheels do you have man?
I run two sets depending on the weather and my mood. I have my factory tinted chrome 19x8.5x245 and then I have 4 x Verde VFF01wheels 19x8.5 fronts and 19x10 rears.
I’ve seen These cars go for 20-25 on car gurus in NY with only 30k miles sound like I good deal but a bit suspicious
I'm suspicious all the time. When it comes to certain things I can even be more suspicious, like cars that are known to be the type that most people manipulate, do subpar mods/installs and then typically get abused. Got to chose wisely when buying Dodge 5.7/392's/Hellcats, GT 5.0's/350, Vettes, Cameros, Supras, and certainly cars like 2009-2015 GTR's, BMW's,
Mercedes. Really do your best do-diligence to sniff out B.S. and undisclosed/hidden problems.
Is it q60 30.t litter with high mileage a reliable car? Please answer my because I want that as my first car it’s one of my dream car❤️‼️
Hi mileage almost always lowers reliability unless some bland Toyota or Honda. Just depends massively how the used car was maintained and care for. Crap shoot buying multi owner used.
@@Freestyler4130 I want a q60 not a q50 bruh and if you had the q60 lucky
@@Freestyler4130 There's a big difference between a beater/not cared for/older model Infiniti and a newer one that has been taken care of or bought new. There's not many cars you can buy today that thru a tune only you can make a 450-470+ crank hp car and it not be a boy racer mustang or a 10-15 year old BMW. Many could/can find a somewhat clean 2016-2017 for around 19-22K. Knocking someone else wishes/likes is sort of closed-minded to put it politely. People are who they are and not everyone is at the same point in life.
@@GettingthruLife Point taken, my comment did come off douchie.
i am looking to buy q60 red sport 2017 with 80k miles on it for 32k is it worth the money
2016, 2017 and 18 motors can have a tendency to have porus blocks which means after time the block with the coolant channels leaks coolant into the engine oil. Also the 16,17 and 18 models have the older turbos and or engine software that allowed more reliability issues. Who's selling it? How many owners? young person or older person? Has it had lower downpipes/full downpipes and or blowoff valves? Maintenance records included? In this market car prices are out of wack. I personally think 32K is high for 80K miles unless this is at a actual Infiniti dealership and they have looked the car over and are offering 100K mile warranty. The only Infiniti I'd trust is one you have full history on or you know the owner and they take care of the things they own. A bunch of tore up, worn out and abuse VR30's out there. Good car but just need to know what you are buying into.
not worth it
Not worth it
hell no 32 k with 80k miles? not even as a gift lol😂
The little pipes is choking the car and especially tuned car with more power
From my research and my data yes this 3.0T motor could use bigger, less restrictive Dp's but there's a big but. This car was designed around its restrictive exhaust and catalytic converters. The stock turbos were selected and spec'd for this restriction/slowdown. When you go and put downpipes and remove this car's CATS 2 or then 4 of them you place more risk on premature turbo failure. Right now in the next couple of years I don't know if I'm ready to buy new turbos or seek the trouble that comes with removing catalytic converts. Replacing the Lower downpipes typically remove 2 unless you buy the 800-900 highflow catted. It's just a personal opinion. One day in the future if I still have this car/plan on hagging onto it, and it's worth it to me, and if I went bigger and better turbos in the quest for more performance then I'd for sure look into installing 3" full catless dp's.
Getting thru Life yes I agree but it was factory tuned for the small diameter pipes and like in your situation you are hurting your car by tuning and choking it even more just my opinion any intelligent tuner would inform you of this and also give you launch control so lower downpipes and hks blow off valves and heat exchangers is all supporting mods for the longevity of our little turbos and doesn’t need a tune but improves the car air flow dramatically
Getting thru Life one more thing from my research was heat and boost spikes and without the proper venting you are trapping heat which in the long term will kill your power or uncontrollable boost spikes
@@chantyduong1502 I don't understand what you mean by hurting the car because I don't have aftermarket lower dp's likely catless? That makes no sense to me. I've been in direct contact with AMW tuning in Houston who specializes in Q50 3.0T's where he is a highly recommended tuner among the Facebook 3.0T crowd plus I've gone straight to the source and had many email conversations/shared my datalogs with Ecutek who designed the software to crack these and others car's computers. From these discussions, like with my current tuner who is a world-renowned and highly respected GTR/Nissan platform tuner, they stand by my car running safely and within calibration/performance limits as does Ecutek overseas. Interesting as well is, every one of these companies and individuals have told me directly and hinted indirectly that blowoff valves are not necessary and they are popular and sought after mainly for more for the sound. They all went even a step further and stated that blowoff valves can be a minor benefit in some special circumstances but can also be a hindrance to AFR). I made a video on this: ruclips.net/video/doTLF4Xwp3s/видео.html
I have never, ever heard or seen evidence that not running lower downpipes on a tuned 3.0T makes it dangerous situation. I've actually heard the opposite from so technical discussions. Removing the stock downpipes and cats can allow the stock turbos, tuned and untuned, to spool up too quickly and freely causing more heat and undo wear to the stock turbos. (they aren't meant to be used hard) Now if you have upgraded, tougher turbos and the proper tune for them then this won't be an issue.
There is lots of misinformation out there going around so I like to email and talk to the proper sources that have first hand working knowledge plus they aren't just trying to get me to buy their product. You talk to companies that sell a product and depend on you buying their parts then, of course, they want/need you to buy their part and in some instances spread free that you are damaging your car without their part or lie about the performance gain. Hope that helps. You don't have to believe me or agree with me but this is what I'm going by.
My information is based on a Nissan master tech that has over 20 years experience and still currently works for Nissan and he told me all the parts in our q50 is mass produced and assembly line junk not like the parts for the Gtr and if you tuned you need to do supporting mods for the turbo and back pressure will kill your turbos if there is excessive pressure going backwards so without the blow off and no recirculated system where does it go ??? All our cars is the same but one thing is different the tuner so I guess if your tuner is giving you codes and can’t figure it out then is more than a software problem and q50 and GTR is not same. It’s not about popular parts but good quality parts and a good tuner goes hand and hand. The master tech goes to New Jersey to update his education every year and is my friend
do you know if the 2.0t 2017 model is more reliable than the 3.0t??
It likely is because nobodies adding 110-150 hp to to the 2.0t. It 's a less stressed and a less pushed motor.
Looking at a 2017 Q60 3.0T in the Middle East, it’s a US spec import with 100k KM and priced around $17k, anything I should look out for? Checking the vins to see if it was totaled but other than that idk much
Look at heat exchanger and radiator overflow tanks under the hood. Two of them left side and one driver side backside of radiator. Fluid level color should be blue and about 2 inches from bottom or to fill line indicated on tank.
Drive around 30 min a check again. Check oil level and color. Deep back vs brown or better yet honey color.
Flip on ac on high check cooling, run heater and check. Check all vents blowing performed air.
Look at all tires, inside tread and outside for unusual tire wear. Check exhaust on startup for mild white smoke and coolant smell.
Rev engine mildly hood up and listen/look at serpentine belt function/operating.
Get in the ground with a flashlight if needed and look for road damage to undercarriage.
Look in truck, lift carpet look for mold, water, cleanliness. Check exterior panels for repainting- inside door parimeter. Check hood edges paint for roughness.
Touch every button, rocker switch for proper function. Do a 20-30 min test drive in silence and listen for odd sounds.
I’m buying a 2017 3.0t with 27k miles on it not planing on doing any mods just blow off valves and axel back exhaust do I have to worry about turbos or serpentine belt if I keep it stock?
Just for you to decide what's best for you but the tuners like AMS and other top tuners do not recommend blowoff valves since there isn't a a proper recirculating blow off valve kit out for this car. The blowoff to atmosphere valves won't destroy a motor quickly but can have a slow negative effect over time due to confusing AFR's. It is what it is. Blowoff valves really need the ecu adjustment to run them properly but for most folks that does not stop them. Same as removing catalytic converters with full/lower downpipes per my tuner at Racebox because car/ecu was designed to run with 4 catalytic converters.
At 27K I would have someone official at a respected Infiniti dealership inspect your belt and advise you if needs replacement. If it has never been replaced or it had been replaced and not precisely put back on (correctly aligned) then you risk destroying that belt which can damage other things. Part of the downside of purchasing a pre-owned car as over time stuff has to be done to keep it running like new. Most of the time the owner/owners before you did nothing in maintenance because they knew or likely knew they wouldn't have the car when parts started to wear due to lack of maintenance. (There's a reason why so many people buy a car used and then later have issues either from the person before you or the new owners own bad choices). Best bet is to buy a CPO but then that costs more money buts means less risk and more piece of mind.
seriously, if in doubt and there should be because belts are reported to snap most around 30K. This depends on many variable but since you didn't own the car for the first 27K then you don't know. I'd drive it to a Infiniti dealer and ask if they could take 5 min and give it a look. You will likely be a customer of their in the future so they should help you out.
How do you like the Indy 500’s
They are an ok tire at a reasonable price but as far as performance I've recognized the need to spend more and get more. Not stellar for 0-60 acceleration especially when these turbo cars get tuned with an additional 100+ whp. Likely just fine for a AWD Q50-60 AWD but not necessarily RWD with an open diff.
Everybody has too many mods……but yeah I have mods too😂😂😂😂
Is there any problems after moding the car ???
My car runs flawlessly. Things I'd stay away from are blowoff valves that are/have been available and removing the catalytic converters ie catless downpipes or lower downpipes. Talk to anyone with turbo issues and bam... guess what? Blowoff valves and catless lower downpipes.
a guy I know that works at a tire shop had a q60 and he put like 4000 miles kn it and the motor blew at only 43k miles. he didn't have a warranty on it and to replace the motor was gonna cost him somewhere around 27,000 dollars which is ridiculous I'd rather have the 3.7
A guy I know who drives a Q60 leaves a ton of unknown info. Bashing a car based on super limited info is sketchy or intentional. He obviously bought a crap car from a crap business and got taken to school. Highly likely he didnt do his homework and didnt propely inspect the car. You can buy any car on the planet where if it wasn't taken care of, shotty parts and subpar install on it and or was driven into the ground then of course it's likely going to be a bad vehicle. Maybe he bought a reconditioned or salvaged title as more people try to do to save money but usually a bad idea. People usually are to blame for their own mistakes. Not the brand or the platform. It's easy to buy a clapped out 3.7 too.
You stupid it goes to all cars dummy, the guy probably was clueless doesn’t know how to simply maintain a car but changing oil, air filter, transmission fluid, rotors brakes, etc i bought a q50 3.0t 2018 at 30k miles and now it’s sitting at 65k miles age has never been to the shop or even break a single part, I’ve drove it to LA back and fort because my girl live there and I live in SF so 5-7 hours. No problem with my car love this car, those clueless brainless people who drive cars doesn’t know how to even change the oil bunch of morons then hating on the car.
What about the turbos issues?
Turbo pre mature failure at 30-40k has a lot to do with the modifications people have done to their VR30 motors. Catless downpipes and no ecu tuning for those catless downpipes and then a little of blowoff valves over time cause turbos to fail. Ots just a fact that people with their catalytic converters on their standard tune are far, far less likely to have problems. One more point, for 2019 Infiniti VR30 x they got a turbo, block and a software upgrade.
@@GettingthruLife So how can I avoid that problem?
@@ahmadmasadeh1298 Buy new and take care of the car yourself or buy a certified pre-owned car from an Infiniti dealership with extended warranty, or know what you are doing when buying used and go over a pre-owned VR30 car with a fine tooth comb and ask a lot of question and get answers. If no answers then the person selling that car has no idea about the car and likely flipping it, hiding something or clueless. I think easy to buy into a bad Infiniti turbo car these days. Not that Infiniti motors/cars are not reliable, it's just many people these days don't value the things in their possession. Just got to buy smart.
Still reliable? Looking in to this or the Stinger
My car is great so far. Good gas mileage, pretty quick close to 500 motor/crank hp, still pretty tight with minimal interior rattle/squeaks, and no parts failures or need for warranty repair. I got mine new at the middle point of 2019.
I'm not a big fan of the Stinger's rear sloping window design plus the side scoops just like on the Q60. The KIA stingers are also expensive for the KIA name. Less money to mod Q50 to gain more who. Note: I'd consider sticking to the 2018 and newer cars because some updates and upgrading where done to make the cars more reliable...I think this is pretty much true but I can't confirm this concrete/set in stone. 2016 -2017 lesser expensive and typically more miles but also more water and tear and more maintenance likely needed so cost and climb back up.
2016 q50 3.0 $22,000 CDN with 66,000 KM. worth it?
That is a difficult question to answer. Tons of things that need to be looked at to see if it's worth that price or not. Check the oil level/quality, check radiator and heat exchanger coolant tanks, check the airfilters for condition, check transmission level and for quality, a good look at the main serpentine belt, look at tires/date codes, inspect the bottom of the entire underside of the vehicle look for fluid/oil leaks. look for repairs or shotty work.........maintenance records/oil change records???? 2016-2017 likely to have worn turbos because who doesn't drive these cars hard depending on who owned it. Extended dealership warranty?
I recently purchased a 2017 q50 3.0 premium with about 35,000 miles. (40,000km estimate) for about 25k USD.
For the lower price, I would highly consider looking in to what Brian suggested. (especially if the dealer offers a extended warranty)
@@williamjeffries452 that's a nice price ! I've seen a bunch in my area for solid prices coming from dealerships from 17k -25k and they all have 15-40k miles
I was looking into buying a 3.0t q50 but i cant find any for under 24k that have under 60k miles its all over 26k
Yep, still not a good time to be shopping for vehicles due to high prices and economy. Reason why I'm more than happy with my 2019 and the value I git in 2019 price before shit hit the fan.
Be willing to travel for the dream car you want! I'm finding q60's 3.0t in Florida for 20-25k with high ish miles. That's the top end of my price range but I makes it an actual possibility for me to get :)
@@sporkinstien6571 New York too
New York got to be sure you don't buy a flood car. Buy used anywhere got to be ultra diligent to look for flood damage due to all the flooding including hurricane. Hurrican Ian ruined/totalled like 358,000 according to latest Google. Shaddy people and small dealership buy the water damaged vehicles, and do their best to not disclose properly. A flooded car, especially saltwater means ruined or a nightmare to repair.
According to Google again, hurricane flood water and heavy rains in New York 2021-2022 destroyed an estimated 250,000 vehicles with flood damage.
2018 q50 3.0t sport with 56k miles for $23k, is it worth? It’s a certified pre owned car from a Lexus dealer. Lemme know🙏
Well my mint, 100 percent loved and maintained 2019 3.0t Sig Edition RWD with 26,300 miles is slated in this (obnoxious) market to sell for about +/- 28,000k at the infinit dealership. They were offering me 24,000. I passed on their offer. I was considering the newest 2024 Tesla Model 3 performance. Not now with their 8,000 plus down 3 year lease offer. Tesla was advertising/offering $550 a month and 2,999K down lease.
I cant decide between a q60 and a subaru sti pls give me a comparison and reliability
The STI's and Subaru products/models are popular cars, pretty quick and awd but in my mind they are in different categories than Q50-60. Rally car look and vibe compared to more flowing lines and touring/luxury vibe on the interior.
They both can be modded but initially that tune and heat exchanger alone upgrade for Infiniti is about as good as it gets in my opinion.
Reliability depends on so many, to many variables. Just depends on the shape and care the used cars were in at buying used stage. Both car platforms that are bought by younger, gear head oriented people who modify aspects like suspension, braking, aero, and engine performance mods (turbo, HX, ecu, fuel, exhaust).
I think which one to buy just comes down to preference. Pretty much all the Subaru's are awd where the Q-Infiniti cars you can choose.
Reliability in my eye, the Subaru might be higher but that could be because the nature of the people buying them. I feel there are plenty of uninformed/under informed people buying the Infiniti twin turbo car. (Removing the CATs and then doubling down with the performance exhaust while untuned for those mods is not a good idea.) Reason why the Q50-60 3.0t have garnered an online bad reputation.
Nissan and Subaru are pretty good automobile makers to pick which ever one that excited you the most when your walking away from or up to. For me, that was my 2019 Infiniti Q-50 Signature Edition or their full sport model.
@@GettingthruLife Hey how are you ? I just picked up a 2018 Q60 , I was told that with the Lower down pipes it’s in monitored and you wouldn’t need a tune for it , what is your opinion on that?
If it's a RedSport model, they come with the turbo sensors that allow the ecu to monitor the turbo wheel speed where the ecm can manipulate parameters to get things close to balanced but I don't feel it's the perfect solution. There's a guy I know with a 2017 RedSport I think I recall the year where he ran his CBE, lower downpipes and blowoff valves with no tune and his turbos went out I think around 40-45k.
I think I recall seeing the 2018 models got equiped with an upgrade turbo to increase longevity and the newer models.
I still think the best way to run catless dps is be tuned and for the other stuff people are addicted to put on these cars but I would think the RedSport models handle lower dps better.
If your car has them on there then your kind of stuck with then because you don't have the factory pipes/cats plus putting on dps and taking off is a struggle. Hopefully you have years to enjoy and no big let downs.
Does your car have BOV'S and a CBE as well, muffler delete?
@@GettingthruLife no sir it’s bone stock , and I had a typo in my question, I was trying to ask are the downpipes unmonitored
The factory catted downpipes have O2 sensors which play a huge roll in the car running right. I would only recommend full or a partial lower downpipes when professionally tuned. Then just a lower downpipes set with the factory Cat-back exhaust is a waste if time and money and hard on the car without proper tuning. Just think why there are so many people with turbo issues.
I’m looking to buy a q50 3.7 VQ , anything I should look out for it used. I’m looking at one for 120,000 miles.
I am not familiar with first-hand experience with the 3.7. My first Infiniti product is with my purchased new 2019 3.0T. I would suggest just like buying anything on the level of high mileage. Just check that everything functions so you know where you stand once you own it. Inspect tires, underneath the vehicle, check oil/level/color, pull out the air filters inspect, radiator tank overflow container level and coolant color, transmission fluid level, maybe have a shop do a multi-cylinder compression check...point/objective is know what you are getting into and what you will likely be needing to spend money on in the near future to keep your car running at optimum level. Ask questions to get a feel for the car/vehicle's history. Any maintenance records? What's been modified on the car? What have they replaced during their ownership?
My friend peter wants to buy one but I'm telling him that its gonna blow up. Can someone convince him not to buy it?
It doesn't bother me if you think they all blow up. With this stated I feel there are a bunch of abused Q50-60's out there so if not willing to spend a little more to get a good/solid car then I'd say buy something else. A lot of people buy their car unknowingly from people who buy these from auction and they want to pay as little as they can and then turn around and inflate the price. If the motor/the all-around package was so untrustworthy and terrible why would Nissan pretty much make their newest wonder car with the same turbo VR30 motor? Ive got 27K on my car over 3+ years and never once have I needed a repair and Ive been tuned 445 whp and 500+ torque for 2.6 of those years.
My 2015 q50 3.7 blew up , I got it from a dealer and only had it for about 4 months
Im looking to buy a 2017 Q50 with 100k miles as my first car for 16k to me that's a lot of miles for it being fairly new but I've seen the car faxs and its two previous owners mostly highway miles im guessing im a little nervous i dont want any problems
Yeah I agree...for me 100K would be a little excessive. That price seems high as I wouldn't be paying that or I'd look at others. Honestly, I'd look at a 3.7 with high miles before the turbos. Most people don't change the oil enough and the turbos do wear out over time as they are not the highend turbos like Precision, Garrett, BorgWarner... It all comes down to person or people taking care of the car so in this car's case that's times 2 to try and be lucky with. Really do your homework and likely put that car up on a lift and check what needs to be brought up to specs so that it's good to go a couple of years. Would suck to buy and then find out 6 months later you got to drop $500 here and $900 there or more. A car that's super rusty or excessively dirty underneath says a lot to me.
@@GettingthruLife I’ll definitely take that into consideration as I proceed. Thanks for your insight man appreciate it 🗣
@@jovonnphd If you're looking at one with 100K plus miles then yes likely the 3.7. The 3.0t's didn't come about till 2016 so if you bought a 2016 with 100K then that person drove upwards of 20K a year. That's a fair amount of driving and these turbos likely aren't going to last that long as almost everybody turns these turbos up which puts a lot more wear and tear on them. The 3.0T are faster stock, motor for motor and then there's the factory Red Sport. If I had a good used option for a 3.0T, that was in my spending range, then I'd opt for the 3.0t motor with the twin turbos.
@@GettingthruLife 2016 q50 red sport. 75k miles 18.5$ thoughts?
If you like it and it checks out. Depends heavily in where you buy it from. Ask if it was it was bought at auction. Any history/records on the car? Have you gone over it and looked and touched everything? Ask to drive the car for an hour and if everything runs good at the end then that's a bonus. Flip on the air and crank aircon. Flip on the heat and run heater 5 min. Check all vents. Check the hx and radiator over flow tank levels. Check oil and look at color and level. Honey color oil good, black color oil not changed and can tell you maintance not a big priority. Look at tire wear pattern on tires. Can tell suspension/alignment issues. Start car and immediately go to exhaust tips, look for any smoke or coolant smell. Check air filters. Look at serpentine belt with aid of a flashlight check tension/ listen for odd sound as car is reved. Don't under any circumstance buy a retitled or salvage title unless you know 100% what's likely to break and you are an amazing and resourceful mechanic. Only buy a clean titled car and I would try to buy from a long standing, trusted dealership. Get anything worth in writing warranty or you buy as is. Because these cars are usually not well cared for, you could easily buy into a headache because people before you had blowoff valves, catless/full diwn pipes, lowered suspension, and highly likely the JB4 boost controller. I would not buy a 2016-2918 that had these parts installed for extended time.
If you like the car still and down the road you have budgeted for a proper tune and aftermarket turbos then buying a higher mileage q50-60 2016- 2018 makes more sense. Most of these car has issues because of previous owners and not necessarily the cars fault.
I purchased a 2019 Q50 used with 30,000 miles and just took it in for coolant leak. Comes to find out that the coolant was leaking into the engine oil. Dealer is telling me I need a new engine and factory warranty may not cover it and I only had the car for 3 months
The porous block thing sucks and happens more often than usual. I haven't seen or heard many 2019 affected by this. I know a friend with a 2018 redsport and had this happen with around 40-50k and Infiniti replaced everything under warranty but his was a CPO Infiniti with that warranty. If under warranty than that's a clear warranty issue. If they are saying you caused it then they have to prove that. If out of warranty due to time limit than that's unfortunate. Depends on what's the cause of the damage or failure.
I wonder if this porous engine block thing is environment driven? Are these cars that are run in seriously cold climates, does that contribute to the metal becoming porous? Close to zero degrees and then warming up to 200 degrees thousands of times? Shouldn't happen but why some cars have this problem and others don't needs research. Most of the time it's when people buy used/preowned vehicles. It leaves open where did the car originate from or where was the car mostly driven for the 1st 20-30K miles? How does iron even become porous over time is the question.
@@GettingthruLife good point. I’ve only had the car for 3/4 months, I had just purchased last year end of December certified pre-owned with 26,000 miles. The vehicle is still at the dealership just waiting on the warranty claim hopefully they can cover it and not try to blame me for it. I had just taken the vehicle to get an oil change two months ago. It’s just a bummer to see a 2019 vehicle go through this. I’ve only seen older cars with miles over 150,000+ with this issue.
Also the dealership hasn’t given me a straight answer on what exactly the problem is but I’m guess it’s what you told me. It seems more accurate
@@edgarcano620 did you get it solved?
2016 Infiniti 3.0t with 60k miles for $23,000 is this good ?
Depends on many variables like condition, maintenance records and where it came from, and who's selling it. Everything today is higher priced due to a government forced, shitty economy and jacked up vehicle market. Not the best time to buy and get a deal.
Hey sir , that’s a deal , Tranna find one around that price range here in Los Angeles
Hey I’m looking to purchase a 2016 q50 2.0t with 25k miles on it from a private seller what should I look out for?
Maintance records, how many owners. check oil level, check oil color, look at coolant levels, look at airfilter inspects, look at tire wear, inspection underneath car for damage/wear, consider auto trans fluid flush/replace, feel for brake vibration/pad replace, drive and flip every button/lever/AC.. drive it for 30 min slow-fast-traffic-highway.
Think about or consider paying for a 100 point inspection at a Infiniti/Nissan dealer if you don't feel confident in your ability to pick a healthy reliable vehicle.
Is a used 2015 Infiniti 3.7 that has 50k miles reliable enough? Is that a good amount of miles for a used car?
That's hard for me to generalize and just say sight unseen if that's a good car. You need to do your do diligence to check the vehicle out. Just beware that at 50k that's a sweet spot for miscellaneous things to go out/get used up. Example battery, plugs, alternator or a sensor of some type. These parts/repairs add up and the maintainance that's past due or put off because the car was going to be sold.
Buying used means you got to consider where you are buying it from. If buying from a individual you can get a better deal/less markup but then you don't have anyone to fall back in or hold to a degree of responsibility if you bought into a total lemon or a nightmare scenario. Buy from a reputable dealership then you pay more but you have a dealership that was responsible to a point to make sure the car was looked over and made sure everything looked good.
Downside of dealerships these days cars are bought at auctions of all sorts by a buyer so the cars history is none resistant but they still do their best not to buy something horrible because that means they/the dealerships got to sink money into it.
Buying used is a gamble many times. Sometimes you can win and sometimes you can lose. Learning how to buy used items like a car can payoff big over time.
Generally 40 to 50 a car is not used up. There's typically another 30 to 45k in there before 6,000 to 7k major parts start needing to be rebuilt or replaced.
If you don't know how to look a car over or just don't have the time then try to take it to a trusted professional in the industry who can put it up on a lift and run thru it. Will cost a little bit but could save you thousands in additional unseen repair bills.
Vq3.7vhr engine is barely out of break in at 50k my g37 has 142k and still running strong
@@denorvellcollier1633 These motors these days will run well if you take care of them. Give them the right fuel, change worn out fluids and address issue sooner than later. Just depends on if you get a new car and treat it this way from the start or buy it from a dealership or individual who treated it with respect before you. A lot of people abuse and intentionally mistreat their vehicles.
The car will likely always crank up and run, but there will always be issues lol
I bought my 2013 G37xS sedan in 2016 with 50K miles on the clock. Today it has 111K miles and a nice set of maintenance records. Plugs at 75K, passenger side valve cover gasket and radiator (rusted from salted roads in Winter) at 90K. Exhaust (also rusted) at 100K, got a quiet-ish Invidia Q300. Never any major downtime/repair in 6 years. 35 mpg cruising at 65 mph.
Any issues with 2019 models and up?
I just published the most recent video update today: ruclips.net/video/hfFOMXP5lfE/видео.html
Are the transmission on 2017 q50 good?
Despite what non Q50-60 owners state through lack of knowledge or ownership, the trans in the 50-60 is fairly decent. It will hold close to 600- whp without needing to upgrade. It's not the perfect drag racing/road course trans but being a torque converter run trans I think that is a positive. Maybe an upgraded torque converter if seriously pounding on these cars. For a daily driver/occasional drag race/fun car the 7 speed trans is fine. If a choice maybe the 2018 and above 8 speed ZF HP8 transmission would be a better choice.
I'm buying a 2016 Infiniti Q50 hybrid milage 105697 for $16995 any comments is that a good car help!!!!
Car market is an insane place 2022. I'm looking for 2nd car for my work travel and prices are stupid insane. I know very little about the hybrid Q50. Look the car over and ask a lot of questions like where it came from? Compare to other similar car prices. Ask to drive the car around town to get a good feel for how everything operates. If you like it and feel you can afford/justify...then consider getting.
Waste off money. Why would you buy a car for that much with over a 100 thousand miles. Might as well get a Altima SL for the same price with 40k miles
Here in Dallas used car lots by my house. Get this...2020 Nissan Versa 10-12k miles selling for $23,500. 2021 15k miles selling for $24,700.. 2018-2021 altimas selling for 28,000-31,000.
El mejor es el v6 sin turbo
Better at producing less hp and less potential to tune.
Rats nest of an engine bay.
With the factory engine cover on, that makes a difference (here it is removed). Tell me what model car's engine you like that looks better with their engine cover off too? The intercoolers on top of the motor add a fair amount of complexity of hoses and wires but there are benefits to this design as this motor is going to be duplicated and celebrated on the 400Z and the potential will be broadcasted loud and clear for all the hear and some to weep?
The turbos will fail between 20k and 40k good luck bro 🤞
Hopefully not but anything can happen. I am making these hairdryer turbos spin faster and generate more heat. I'll for sure let people know when/if things like this happen. The 16 and 17's year models are more likely to have turbo failures. If I still have this car then that will be a great time to go AMS Garrett turbos and go from tiny to mid-sized with much higher build quality and mid to upper RPM boost.
My q60 3.0t is at 70k no tune turbos are fine if that counts for anything 🤷♂️ I feel like if I tune they will def go
@@Nontoxic6 I'm not going to say anything more as if I do I could curse myself. Stock 3.0T car and treated right...in most circumstances likey 5 years. Up to this point in my life I haven't owned a single car or truck more than 3 years, mostly 2. I really like this car so maybe I'll keep it much longer as long as something else doesn't come out that is a have to have in the $45-55k range.
No the turbos will not fail under 40k miles. Unless you're a complete idiot and don't do any maintenance, like change the oil for example.
@@Nontoxic6 check back again once you're at 100k. I have a 2014 q50s and I'm sadden by the fact that the newer ones only come with turbos.
Of course you don't keep cars too long, u buy Nissan products you can only drive them 2 years before they become junk! That car isn't even a year old and you are already judging its reliability?
Don't know about that, I have an 02 maxima since 03 and it's still going strong. The worst thing about it are the dings from living in nyc.
I would take a guess that you are likely generally not the most friendly person to hang around and appears you just seem to look and watch videos that you can be negative on. Why otherwise would you watch a Nissan/Infiniti junk video? What you wrote comes off automatically like you have a grudge or a bad attitude. I buy and drive all kinds of cars from many brands but Nissan and Infiniti have many of their older vehicles on the road today and they still drive and function great like my neighbor with his 1980's Nissan truck and his 1990's Nissan car. Clearly you have personal issues so I'll just leave that with you. Also if you're not civil going forward then I'll just close you out. I don't like to do that but I try to keep things friendly.
@@GettingthruLife Sorry if i hurt your feelings, i figured that making videos on you tube, u would understand criticism. Nissan was great from the moment it started As Datsun but lately they are horrible cars, especially their Jatco transmissions. My sons Altimas Transmission broke at only 46k miles. I wanted to get a 2013 Infiniti cuz they are half the price of a Toyota or Lexus, which is why i was looking for videos on reliability and came across this video. But here u are making a video of a 9 month old car. If you are that impressed of a Nissan product that has gone a few months without problems, then im sure i want to stay away from these vehicles. U don't have to block me, i just wont watch your videos and tell everyone to stay away from you so they won't hurt your sentiments.
I bought my Q50 new and my 2019 Q50 Luxe now has 82k miles. I drive a lot of highway miles. I've had my JB4 since 20k miles or less I can't remember, but I've had no serious issues with the car. I did have a coolant leak issue when it was summer here in California but I used a Barr's stop leak and haven't had a reoccurring issues.
They are not reliable lol
What was your circumstance? New or used purchase? What year model was your car you have experience with? If used did you by it from a dealership or an individual?
No personal experience. Plenty of my friends have 3.0s that are constantly in the dealer. Blown motors and turbos . I have the 3.7
@@jonathanperez2358 Well that leaves a lot of information open/unanswered. Did they buy a good vehicle in the first place? How many miles and did they check the service history of their vehicles before they bought them? Are they tuned with added boost? Were they tuned previously? Did they have downpipes and or have some or all their cats deleted? What's their driving style? What's there routine maintenance-oil change schedule? All these and much more have a lot to do with how a vehicle lasts and performs. Almost always there are underlying reasons why someone is having problems with their product.
I don't have a lot of miles on my 3.0t but I am tuned, were I drive it hard for short periida and expect it to perform but I am also very respectful with it and take care of it to the best of my knowledge. The reason why I'm not playing around with the fuels pumps, injectors, catless downpipes, aftermarket infotainment screens and lowering components/alter suspension.
Hopefully it continues to be a great car like it's been so far.
@@jonathanperez2358 Also important to note, many times breakages or problems come from modifications made or related issues.The popular Q50-Q60 RUclipsrs have had their problems because of their modificatiins and in one case letting their engine oil get low for their motor failure. Every car manufacturer is going to have some bad apples but as a whole, I think the Infiniti brand and more specifically the 3.0t if not altered, they have a pretty decent reliability experience. If my car here in the future has issues related to my tuning then I can't fault the car.
Sure bud, your full of shit. Plenty off friends with them? How many people have plenty of friends with the same car? Stop lying 3.7 fanboy.