Best Way To Repair Damaged PVC
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- Опубликовано: 21 дек 2021
- Connectite Push-to-Fit 2" DWV Coupling: amzn.to/32kO99R
Accidentally drilling through a PVC pipe can seem like a big issue but depending on the situation you could correct the issue in just a few minutes. I will show you 2 different methods with the first using a Connectite push-to-fit coupling and the second method using a standard DWV Schedule 40 coupling. Both of these methods are approachable by DIYers which could help you save significant time and money.
Parts Used
Connectite Push-to-Fit 2" DWV Coupling: amzn.to/32kO99R
Schedule 40 2" DWV Coupling: amzn.to/33Lc2rv
Oatey Handy Pack (Primer and Cement): amzn.to/3mrskwk
Hacksaw: amzn.to/3mstsjg
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. 
Хобби
Thank you so much Scott. I look forward to learning with your wonderful tutorials, they are so helpful to us trying to make repairs.
Hey Hannah, really appreciate the kind words. Merry Christmas 🎄!
I've never heard of a shark bike pvc coupling but definitely interesting! PVC glued fittings can actually be fixed if there is a mistake by boring out the fitting and glueing again, but remember ABS piping cannot do this. Keep up the good vids!
This video is an easy fix. The pipes move so you can easily make the connection. In most plumbing situations the pipe would be ridgid on both sides. Tell us how you fix that.
They have what's called a sliding coupling that provides ample length for adjusting. 👍🏼
i came looking for this solution. how do i find it
Another option for a simple hole like that is to buy the correct diameter slip coupling (i.e. no ridge in the middle, can insert pipe all the way in) and cut it in half (like a taco shell.) Then, smear that and the pipe with glue, and snap it onto the pipe over the hole.
Yeah, I like that idea as well and have seen it a couple times in the past 👍 Thanks for the feedback.
You are doing a great service to the viewers of this channel.
Your advice is very much appreciated.
Thanks man, appreciate the support 👍
Good information thanks.
Thank you very much
Well done!
Thanks for this!
i was hoping this video was on pipe that was hard in place and not one you could slide to make room for coupler
If you have the same diameter pipe section handy, cut to fit and a little heat will soften the ends enough to slip on to connect the two end pieces. when cooled you will have a tight fit
Thank you so much. I’m just a mom trying to fix my pvc drain pipe on my pool. My husband ran over it with the mower about two years ago. I think it’s safe to say he isn’t going to fix it. 🙄 When I go to Home Depot what is the name of that $.70 piece? I think my pipe is also 2 inches but I’ll measure to make sure. Also, is there anything else I can cut it with? My pipe is kinda in the ground so I will try to dig around it. Now that I think about it I might need o add pvc pipe to fill the gap. I feel overwhelmed but I’ll keep trying to watch videos. Thank you so much
great video, this is what I need to do, but what if the pipe is in a wall running vertically, how much do the pipes bend?
I need to cut out a middle section with damage and replace that with new pipe and 2 couplers. again the location is tight between 2 walls.
Any advice?
Haven’t seen 3 inch DWV coupling for.70 cents in a long time!!!
Yeah this one was only a 2 inch but prices on everything keep steadily going up. Bought a $50 box of screws (power lags) a few days back 🤯
@@EverydayHomeRepairs My bad!!! Thought it was a 3 Inch!!!! Merry Christmas!!!
I just bought a 3” repair coupling it was 8.09
Many fittings that are designed like the Sharkbite model cost up above $10, so the big coupling isn't that expensive considering its size.
Thanks. How do you handle a situation where the pipe that is being repaired does not have flex in it? In other words, it is very stationary and will be difficult to repair in either of these methods? Does that make sense?
If it were me I would have patched with a spare piece of pvc and solvent glue.
I cut a length out of the pipe, usually about a foot. I put a normal coupling on one side, and on the other side a rubber coupling (in some areas these are called NoHub couplings, other regions have other names). The rubber coupling is a few mm larger than the pipes outer diameter, so it is able to slide freely along the pipe. Slide the rubber coupling onto the pipe (doesn't matter which end). Glue the normal coupling on one side. Once that has set up, slide the rubber coupling over the other joint and use the included hose clamps to clamp it shut.
I'm lazy and would probably have just used a dab of JB Weld with or without a machine screw in the hole. Then there's just a quick wrap of silicone tape. Didn't have any confidence in that product until I was confronted with a small leak in 1/2 in. copper cold water supply in a tough location. Draining and soldering would have been very difficult but I could get to it with the wrap. After 5 yrs., it's still dry!
I know a lot of people swear by JB Weld for many quick fixes around the house 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I've even used it for an R12 central AC high pressure refrigerant line when I didn't want to braze.
When I was a kid, I used its predecessor to repair the copper supply line to a toilet tank.
50 yrs. later it was still dry. Great stuff.
Thanks for the tips. Wouldn't melting shut the hole be an option ?
Trying to melt PVC is a bad idea. Not only does it tend to distort badly with heat, but if you're hot enough to melt it (above 85C), then you're hot enough to trigger dehydrochlorination (starts at about 70C), which is an autocatalytic degradation process likely to rapidly leave you with a whole pipe, and possibly even other pipes nearby, completely ruined.
Thank you for the detail explanation
How much psi dose the press and fit coupling hold ?
Will the connect type work on waste lines also? 2inch 3inch and 4 inch waste lines
It is supposed to work on drain, waste, and vent pipes which is what “DWV” represents. Best of luck.
Interesting. But how did you fix the poorly sloped furnace exhaust pipe?
He actually made it worse
And did you solve the water build up? Otherwise you'll be back at drilling a hole. If the geometry will not allow a straight run to the outside, then you'll need something like a u-trap to keep combustion gasses inside pipe and outside house.
I was able to raise the end of the PVC pipe at the furnace such that the moisture would exit the exhaust outlet.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs that should do. Watch that dip where you joined the pipe, it will collect water and if the support is too far away the weight will cause it to sag, and more condensation collects, pipe dips further, etc.
@@rcmrcm3370 Very good point on that last comment. He probably should install some type of strap or something where he made the repair so that it will remove the dip in the pipe and prevent it from sagging.
How do u get those pipes to connect like that?
Just use the pvc saddle cement on . All you do is use primer on the pvc and the sch 40 saddle and then put your cement on both and push the saddle over the hole area , done.
What happens if you glue the standard coupler to the pipe only using cement and not primer?
The primer adds a lot of strength to the glue connection. A drain or vent line with just glue would probably be fine but anything under pressure needs the extra strength that primer adds to the glued assembly.
If you're not able twist pipe. Use extra glue and hold in place for longer period of time up to a couple few minutes. 👍🏼😎
in some areas some areas haven't they banned the use of both abs and pvc for furnace and water heater exhaust due do the hot air making the pipe become brittle.
Thanks for the feedback, where are you roughly located?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs i'm in canada. i know for sure here the black abs stuff can no longer be used. but i saw another utuber who is an hvac tech say the pvc stuff is also banned in his area now to u have to use this grey coloured pipe now that has a high temperature rating.
How about tapping a thread and installing a plug with Teflon its not under pressure.
That might work for this vent but I fixed this specific water pooling issue by elevating the pipe near the furnace to have the desired downward slope to the outlet 👍
I would just plug it with J-B Weld. I am sure it would do the job.
The sag in that pipe at the end will be a major problem for a drain.
👍👏👏👏
I have never see one of those type Push to Fit couplers!
It does not look like it would work if the pipe could not move sideways like yours did. When the pipes can't move away from each other, the rubber sleeves with hose clamps will work here too. They do make a PVC coupler without the stop in the middle that you can slide on one pipe all the way and then slide back over the middle. Now tell me why those cost more then the couplers with the ridge??
Hahaha, that is a good question. Maybe it is a product volume thing. Or just trying to make a bit more profit, which might be a bit more likely 🙂
Wish I'd have known about that kind of coupler when I had to dig about four feet of yard to have room to cut and bend pvc to repair the water line coming in from the meter.
Use a sawzall or multi tool
Should have threaded and put peacock valve for future draining
He mentioned in another comment that he fixed the underlying problem such that he shouldn't need to keep draining it in the future. Draining it with the drill was just a stopgap measure to get a furnace running immediately in an emergency situation where there wasn't time to wait for the aforementioned proper fix of the underlying problem to be completed.
You show how to fix a leak in a PVC pipe that is in the ground
It's basically the same process, except you have to dig it up first, and more cleaning is necessary in order to get a good glue bond.
@@JohnDoe-nq4du I have to make such repair in a few months - just damaged a 3/4" PVC sprinkler pipe rated up to 200 PSI. The pressure coming from the city is about 90-95 PSI. Will the glued connection withstand it?
Since it's only a Vent type of pipe, Flex tape is a faster and cheaper solution.
I also sand the surfaces before I prime, inside the fitting and on the pipe.
He could have used chewing gum too but that isn't the point of the video. His demonstration is intended to illustrate where an actual repair is mandated.
I thought about flex tape. I’m looking at DIY to fix a leak outside the wall underneath my toilet. I can’t do all this type of fix so I have been searching quick fixes like flex tape, JB weld, etc for pvc. Any suggestions?
@@suzannaj3834depends if the pipe you’re talking about is pressurized or just a vent/drain.
Flex tape!! Or gorilla glue
Epoxy
I do not trust sharkbites long term. I would rather glue, solder or crimp. I do use them for temporary repairs only.
Why didn't you just add a slope up of a 1/4 every 4 feet starting at you furnace placing clams where nessesary and this would never be a issue. Which should be standard for the common HVAC installer
That is what I did to fix the moisture issue. The vent line was not installed correctly prior to me owning this property.
😎👍👌🖖✌😁
I was always taught never to put your cement on the inside of the coupling. Reason for that is as you are pushing the pipe in, the cement on the inside of the coupling will push out and then be inside your pipe and will dry in a heap and could cause flow issues. If you only put it on the outside of the pipe itself, all excess cement is pushed to the outside of the pipe where it wil not do any harm. A properly primed coupler with still adhere to the pipe with just the cement on the pipe
If you use the right amount of cement, you won't have any issues.
*Inducer fan.
If the pipe isn’t draining properly why didn’t you fix the thing?
Why didn't you remove the entire area of the pipe with the hole? I would think that is not making a good seal b/c of half of that hole still being there
My guess is that if it were a pressurized pipe he would have, but the O-ring is past the hole so it will seal the same, the primer/glue will be slightly weaker than without the hole but plenty strong since it's not under pressure.
As Dustin mentioned the home was small enough I knew it would not impact the o-ring on the Connectite coupler and still had plenty of room on the Standard DWV coupler. If the hole was bigger I would completely remove the section.
Next EHR video -> How to use a screw driver. 🤣😂🤣
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