flashandthepan Unless it's a fitting that I can't change all of this is stupid. PVC isn't that expensive and with the supplies you buy for the job. You already have enough to just cut it off and add what's needed. If find a flange or a good piece I want to save I still rather cut it out. When you're good. You don't cut into the piece you want to save.
There are fittings called pipe extenders. You cut the old fittings out and the pipe extenders glues inside of pipe and extra length is the same size of pipe you are repairing. Use them on a reagurler basis. Have been in the Pool and Hot Tub repair business for over 33 years. Best invention ever. Hope this helps some of the people out there trying to do things right.
Randy I bet you been in the business for 30 year's but have you ever come across the one eyed pipe snake? Me personally I have never seen one but I did hear that a fella named Randy was a professional when it comes to handling the 1 eyed pipe snake.
Not sure if others mentioned, but using a sawsall for this is the equivalent of using a sledgehammer to drive a nail. I used a dremel tool instead, it worked great. You have a lot more control and I did not put a single mark on the remaining coupling. took 5 minutes.
Absolutely works. Used a sparkplug socket in the fitting and heated it up. Slow and low and was able to twist the pipe out. Thank you thank you. There are so many crap posts saying it is not possible. Your advise is fantastic.
I just replaced a 2' cleanout wye fitting buried in the foundation using this method although I did use a heat gun instead. It worked way better than I expected. I had no idea that you could remove the fittings and reuse the pipe without cutting fittings off first. Heated them up after cutting majority of old wye fitting off first due to clearance (behind the bush directly under my gas meter...damn). Thank you very much Chris!...saved me a thousand bucks I'll bet.
Well the glues chemically weld the plastic to make the bond and the heat melts that and the pipe so... wouldn't expect the salvaged pipe to reliably stay seal under any kind of pressurized use.
I used this heated coupling idea on two projects this last weekend. One on PVC inground pool equipment and secondly a bathroom sink drainage replacement. The heated coupling idea worked perfectly. I kept telling my wife, how did someone come up with this idea? Much higher thinking than you or I. The first two methods are unpredictable and risky. Imagine having to dig up PVC piping for a replacement of inground pool equipment. The coupling method is very specific and not destructive to surrounding equipment. If you want before & after pics, let me know. Thank you for the ingenious idea RCWCO. I'm not sure if others have tried this method, but SS couplings are very expensive, I found a workaround, that includes purchasing the required number of washers that closely meet the inside diameter of the PVC pipe that needs to be replaced. Find a bolt & nut that will tightly compress the washers together. Place the head side of the bolt and all the washers inside the replacement piece of PVC. Tightly secure the bolt on the threads, making sure the washers are aligned. Galvanized, zinc, SS, it doesn't matter. The cost of a respirator and goggles is much less than a single SS coupling.
Thank you for those great ideas and examples. It got myself and my wife on what we could use since we didn't have a pipe to salvage the existing 2" drain pipe that had absolutely no extra pipe to cut and have enough to reattach a fitting. A HEAT GUN WORKED GREAT!!! Heat guns aren't super expensive but this didn't create any emissions. It had a curled attachment that helped direct the heat. I set it to 750 and kept checking until I was able to start peeling the pvc out. Just had to share that experience!
I've used the first method to remove a broken flange from under a toilet. Plumbers wanted a couple hundred to remove the broken flange which was glued to the inside of the sewage pipe. Using a handheld hacksaw, I cut grooves 1 inch apart into the flange then chiseled them out. Took about 30 minutes to remove a 4 inch flange but saved me hundreds.
I used method 3 with a $2.95 1.5" x 3" threaded nipple pipe from Home Depot. PVC uni joint broke at the intake where my pump hooks up to a Jandy 3 way black plastic pool valve with 3 skimmers and main brain plumbed in with white PVC pipe. Would have been quite a job plus the expensive Jandy cost. Thanks so much for the 3 illustrations. NO BRAINER People -method 3 works great and yields super clean removal. Jandy is like new for a now simple connection. Just do it exactly as Chris in this video does it. Don't cut it, don't smack in a screw driver, just push softened PVC in with screwdriver tip then roll out with long nose pliers.
Hey USA Mark, thanks a gazillion. I am doing that right now. I can't find a cap for the tee. So I can't cut the line there, and I just wanted to leave one line alone and I already cut the broken valve off from 2 inches below ground and will run the lines separately up to the pump. Maybe I can save the second line with a good valve if I can get the tee off.
Big thanks you for your video! I'd seen a snippet on an IG reel of handyman hacks that showed a flammable liquid applied to a PVC welded joint, lit on fire , the piece of cut PVC softens and is twisted out. But I didn't believe it would work. This is what made me appreciate your video all the more, you took the time to try 4 methods, discussed the potential hazards of each and compared the results. I found an 1-1/4 inch copper pipe segment (btw, big thanks for the tip NOT to use galvanized) that fit inside the 1-1/2" PVC piece I needed to remove. I attached it to a pair of long nose vise grips, heated it up for about 30 seconds with my trusty MAP torch, inserted into the PVC pipe section, slowly turned it so all sections would get heated and after about 45 seconds, I was able to work the cut piece out and the section was good enough to use again! Your video made the kitchen sink drain reconfigure go very smoothly!
Thank you Chris! I had a cracked 90 deg El that needed replacing. I used the hot coupling method to melt the old part and very easily remove it - it worked like a charm! Without this I would have to have replaced the entire assembly which would have taken several hours to tear everything out and start all over. you do a great job on all your videos! Thanks,
I had a 1/2 inch threaded pvc pipe on a sprinkler head that broke off at the T fitting in the ground. I used the method of heating up a piece off steel and soften the threaded piece of PVC pipe. 5 minutes later , presto!, I had it removed. You saved me a lot of work. Thanks for great post!
Option 3 worked for me for removing a 1in pipe in an outside sprinkler line. I had a break right by a 3 way connector so it was worthwhile for me to get the pipe out of the connector. I just heated an old cheap socket with a propane burner and set it in with needle nose pliers. Thanks for the idea.
Lol I watched the video because I have the exact same situation as you described and I was going to do the same thing. Curious what size socket fit into the 1" pipe?
I could see the heated metal (#3) as the only viable method in the field. If you think about trying to remove the fitting while still attached to some type of installation then heating the metal works best. If you needed to, you could even heat the metal more while it is still in the pipe using the torch. It would likely work on a horizontal removal as well rather than just straight up. Great video...
In the first method if you use a small hacksaw rather than a sawzall, you'll have much more success and don't have to worry about cutting too deep. Also what was not said is when you get all the bits of pipe out the fitting you need to take sandpaper and remove all the bits of residual glue and pipe and sand the cup of the fitting smooth.
This is an old post that I ran across so I thought I would comment. I've used Ram bits with great success. Method 3 actually worked quite well in the demonstration.
I see that this video is a couple years old so I assume you have seen these but, I use Socket Saver drill bits and they work awesome with very little cost for the bits. No flames and no cutting into the fittings.
I didn't have a stainless steel coupling....I choose a combination of option 1 and 2 together and it worked like a charm. Cutting the slots and heating it up worked just as well as what I'd expect option 3 to be....but no real basis for that. thank you!
I recently removed an old toilet flange using the first method. It works a lot better when it’s not moving around while trying to cut it. The other 2 methods are awesome but I wouldn’t introduce fire to a fitting while in place. Methane and hydrogen sulfide gases and fire don’t mix well.
Sincerely appreciate your well/related videos! Surprised so many commenters here don't understand this is Not about "salvaging" a 99 cent fitting. I do like "socket savers", work great if you grind/file the blades down some so they don't wallow out fittings: Heat gun works good if access too limited. But Maybe you don't have those tools... To all the "Bah Humbuggers": Here's the ANSWER: Whatever WORKS Is RIGHT!
I thank you for your attempt by removing pvc couplings from pipes, the way I do it is as follow I plug the pipe with a rag very tight so nothing goes down the drain, then I used my dremol tool using a round bit cuter and I start cutting vertical groves , be sure to clean as you go trying not to go too deep .I do my best to be one sixteen away from pvc pipe. then tap it with a 1/4" wood chisel tool lightly and wala. it breaks of pice by pice or some times it just falls apart. thank you I do like your videos and yes I have used some of your ideas in my present job, as a handyman. thank you
I thoroughly enjoyed your video! The third method you demonstrated is pure genius!! I can't wait to try it!!! I have used the fist method you demonstrated with mixed results. In that regard, I found that sawing the groves by hand and using a fifth groove, parallel to and w/i an inch or less of one of the others, to help get the initial piece of pipe out easier, goes a long way towards improving the final outcome. Most people don't have the patience to do this. Another method I've used, with pretty darn good results, is similar to your second method, only I use a heat gun instead of a flame. (Not as satisfying, but much safer when attempting it indoors!) When using this method, I shove a sopping-wet rag tightly into the PVC pipe so that it rests in the fitting just past the inner end of the stub of pipe to be removed. (And before anyone gets all exercised about the possibility of the rag sliding down into the nether regions of the piping system, I can attest, from personal experience, that such an offending rag is easily removed by using a pipe snake with an auger on the end. Phew!!!) If possible, I also wrap another sopping-wet rag around the exterior of the fitting, especially if it is in a wall cavity. I then evenly heat the entire inner surface of the pipe to be removed from the fitting with the heat gun until it becomes soft and pliable. Then I take a pair of long needle-nose pliers and proceed as you demonstrated. The only advantage I see of my method, over the third method you demonstrated, is that it can be done on an installed horizontal section of pipe & fitting in situ, as opposed to a detached section of pipe & fitting that is conveniently sitting vertically on a concrete floor where you are merely trying to salvage the (often expensive) fitting. My concern would be that the action of gravity, acting on the heated S.S. pipe coupling (which would have some weight to it) inside the stub of PVC pipe would cause a preferential heating/melting at the bottom portion of a horizontally mounted PVC pipe and/or fitting. One other thing: These methods seem to work fairly well on PVC pipe and fittings; but, for reasons I have not yet determined, they do NOT work well at all on ABS pipe and fittings.
Hi Chris, that was a Great Video and informative. I was wondering, have you ever tried using a heat gun on PVC glued fittings. Low heat, heating the inside and outside for short time and using Channel Lock Pliers and Gloves to separate the fittings.
i would think that a heat gun would compromise both fittings , maybe make them out of round , hot metal on the inside diameter lower heat transfer is my strong guess , unless it is a drain or non pressure
Thank you for posting. I used a wallpaper heat gun, channel locks, and vise grip pliers and was able to remove a 4" section out of a PVC soil stack tee in less than 25 minutes with no damage to the soil stack. One downside, I drop a small piece of PVC down the stake, which will probably cause an issue down the road. I heated the inside of the pipe that needed to be removed and peeled it out easily with heating it in small sections. I did, however, score the pipe with a sawsaw. Worked nicely without any real fumes or fire! Wear glasses and mask!
very interesting. 570 comments and I did not read them all. I worked in the landscape irrigation industry and my pipe vendor sold a tool that was used with a cordless drill to bore the old PVC pipe from the fitting. It takes some practice but it had worked well for me in the field.
You know I have a PVC sewer problem and before I can finish that bathroom I've got to unglue some PVC lines that go to the toilet now I've never did it before so thank you for your video man and you have a great Monday morning.... PS I have faith in you... Wait I mean me....thanks
I will for sure try and save this method #3 in the old memory bank for an emergency. I have tried the chisel and cut method before with almost zero luck!
In the field for quick repairs where you have to work on site the cold method works best. Especially when you need to remove pvc couplings instead of pvc pipes. Most of the time you're working with small sizes 1/2 inch to 1 inch. In which case you carefully saw the coupling or elbow in halves and proceed to pry with flat screwdriver and twist off with nose pliers.
Genius safety tip from 3:50 in: take your plumbing outside before disassembly. Brilliant! In reality, you might* be able to pull this off inside a building with: 1) a fire extinguisher and a plan 2) a box fan with a filter on the inlet side, set up near the burn so the air gets run though. *on second thought, the fan trick works great with dust in a wood shop or sanding a concrete floor, but I'm NOT so sure it'll work with vapors from burning plastic. I'd probably want to put the fan alone in a window forcing air into the house, then close all the other doors and windows and turn on the bath fan - but that's not perfect. Be safe!
Occasionally you will run into a job where digging out the fitting is very helpful in certain places. We have for years done this. We would try to get both the levels the same when looking at the broken off piece, then we would just use the propane torch directly on the pipe slowly heating all around just like the s/s coupling did and we would actually let the pipe and most of the time the fitting get the PVC soft and use a thin blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Just force the thin blade screwdriver between the pipe and fitting wall and separate it a bit so that you can insert your needle nose pliers all the way to bottom and just twist it out. Have done this successfully numerous times. In comes in handy in sticky situations. Slow and sure will usually do the trick.
Excellent video! clean & simple & informative. I forgot the 3rd method & was playing with fire! thanks again! When I'm close enough to the kitchen the stove or outside I use the BBQ.
I use a small hand saw then a heated piece of pipe. You can cut a slot in the fitting without gouging the the outer fitting in under 2 minutes. Then use the heated pipe and peel it out.
I use the saw and screw driver method maybe once or twice a month (only because I try not to fuck up that often) and it works like a charm if you’re not a dummy with the saw. And the primer and glue will kinda fuse all that shit together so don’t be afraid of gouges. I’ve been doing it for 14 years and never had any problems and my father has for over 30 years. So we’re no rookies.
The 3rd method has my vote. I just saved a trip to the store for a green Orbit manifold coupling. The pvc was 3/4. Stuck a deep set 14mm socket in a vice to heat it up and keep it secure . Seemed easier to handle the coupling this way. Coronavirus is still out there, and I am 68, plus my wife has major immune deficiency, so it was more than just about money.
as a plumber when I'm under a vanity in a customers house, I can't set the pvc on fire, that's why I like the heat gun method it takes more patience, but the customer doesn't have to put up with the toxic fumes
You should do a video like this but try and save the pipe instead of the fitting. That’s what had to try and do today at work in a restricted hole I broke in concrete. Had to replace a broken low heel.
On this old house, Richard showed how to remove the piece by using a special hole saw the same size as the inner pipe. Worked great without damaging the coupler.
I knew a crossdresser that broke a high heel on a hole in concrete. He fell; to re his dress and smudged his lipstick. All that and he still got my bathroom remodeled on time and under budget.
The 3rd procedure was much safer then the 2nd because no open flame from the procedure of 3 occurs except for the torch heating the stainless fitting. Less pollution to air also no burning primer.
Plumber had to use method #1 to replace the closet flange. Home architects and designers don't plan on you ever needing to replace or repair anything. They don't leave enough room to use a reasonable length of pipe so you can just cut the pipe and add a coupling. So there are places where you have to do this or turn the job into a big job ($$$).
For someone that ain't got the extra money at the moment,this is great. Also great with people that's got some scrap parts and needing a quick fix or want to save a dollar.
All three seemed doable though you seem to struggle and I couldn’t take a chance of scoring the piece needed nor could I find my heat gun. I saw a different video that I followed, pouring boiling hot water over the joint while using pipe wrenches on the two pieces, The seal broke apart immediately with no damage to either piece and it was easy Peezy!
I like this. Especially if you have a special fitting such as a "Bath Tub Overflow" fitting that you can not just buy, without buying the whole kit for $$+.
MY TIP TO YOU GUYS WATCHING 👀👀👀...use a stainless steel hose clamp attach to outside of the PVC fitting it protects & reinforces the fitting from being damaged -- wear gloves at all times in case you slip with screwdriver . 👍🏻
Use a paint stripper heat gun - works like a charm. Heat the inner pipe up till flexable then long nose pliers and she comes right out. Lot less messy.
Good video I have some old fittings that I have saved to reuse. I am in a rural area of Eastern Australia and I am 45 minutes driving time from the nearest big town where I can buy a new fitting, and I am on tank water, ( no mains water available at all here)so I do all my own plumbing. I have learned something from your video as I just assumed that it would destroy the main fitting trying to get the stub of pipe out after it had been glued with that terrible PVC glue that you use on pipe fittings, as it holds the pipes so strongly together. Although I tend to use clear silicone on non-critical above ground pipes between tanks etc. Up to now, I have just used a reducer or another joiner onto the old stub, where possible. Now I know that you can get the old pipe off the fitting, so thank you for showing how its done.
Should try small cut on inside of the PVC pipe, needle nose vise grips, heat pvc with hot air gun, then grab the PVC rotate the inner PVC pipe counter clockwise. This method works without getting stabbed by accident. And the PVC is still installed on the equipment. Works for me many many times in small hot tub fitting replacement or swimming pools repairs, leaks etc.
I think you should have reglued the coupling to a pipe for all three methods an added pressure. Something tells me that might be slightly out of round and the only thing holding pressure back would be glue. My opinion only
I find if you put a 2 prong fork into the heated pipe ( one inside the pipe and one outside the pipe ) just outside the fitting and heat up the pipe inside the fitting, by rotating the fork, theres no need to beat and bang...just shove the fork in and twist. The pvc pipe will merely roll up and pull away from the fitting, leaving the fitting pristine. It helps to use a strap wrench to hold the fitting while turning the pvc pipe. Use a heat gun instead of fire
I tried this method. Me and. my family are now living in a hostel :) ... Joking aside, this looks great but not for a pipe in situ. Major thanks anyhow...
Man, I'm facing the same issue! Cracked pipe right next to the fitting, right at the back of a deep cupboard. It's so tight under there and there's no room for wastage of pipe. I might hook up my vacuum cleaner to suck the gases right at the source and exhaust direct to outdoors. The hot metal cylinder method is by far the most scientific.
I found the best method is a heat gun And a little bit of patience works best it’s softens the pipe makes it easy to remove it can also be used to clean some of the old glue out of the existing pipe
We just removed a few fittings with a heat gun and it worked easily and quickly. All the methods shown here are likely to damage pipes and the ones with heat are a fire hazard.
I cut my junction pipe, ran the saw up the pipe, smashed it with a c-clamp, then got the rest by twisting it with a strap wrench. Great video, also wanted to share my success. Granted, mine was leaking so it wasn't a perfect mate/connection. If it were, I don't know if would have worked.
I like number three the best! As a plumber for over 35 years, I'm tired of dealing with # 1's and # 2's! Off to enjoy my retirement! Who wants some good tools? Just pay for shipping, and you can have them. 🙌
Like the videos FYI if you would put the fittings back into the vise and put your chisel in at the point that fitting intercepts the jaw of the vise it gives you a little backing and will keep it from damaging your collar just sayin 😎
Instead of a saws-all take a hacksaw apart in put it back together inside the fitting. You can get a better cut with less chance of cutting the fitting.
Why not use a COMBINATION method? Add 2 cuts w/Sawzall before heating interior either w/burned off primer or SS pipe piece? That will make it easier to remove inner pieces as it will be in 2 pieces - easier to twist out than 1 piece. You don't have to cut completely through the inner pieces as partial cuts will separate easily when twisting after heating.
it is far more expensive than heating a metal fitting and inserting but there are fitting saver reams and it would be interesting to hear others' experiences using them.
I have found that it depends on the type and age of the glue. A 1st floor bath was added to my house 25 years ago. They did not use primer and "PVC" glue ( thick and MAP gas yellow) and all joints are brittle.
i have sawed a couple times where someone asked for help...saw 3 cuts only get 1 piece out and work the edge...sandpaper if its gouged up..i haven't had any problems. .easy does it
Instead of a sawzall use a die grinder. Much more control and you can see the interior of the cut as you go. Use a 1/2" carbide Burr it makes a nice open channel you can monitor. Free the edge and pry/roll out. Usually 1 cut rarely 2 and it's out.
For couplings why not simply heat a short piece of pipe that fits in the coupling. Now heat the end of that piece of pipe and insert it into another piece of pipe the same size. You've made a swedge for your pipe. Now pull it out and heat another piece of pipe that you want to use and insert the swedge into the pipe for several inches depending on the size of the pipe. Pull it out and you're left with a bell on the end of the pipe you plan on using. You can wrap a little paper around the swedge before using it to give a little more room in the bell if needed. Now you have a pipe with the coupling on it without spending any money.
Worked like a charm! Method 3 saved me $$$!
Woohoo! Glad you found it useful :)
flashandthepan p
flashandthepan
Unless it's a fitting that I can't change all of this is stupid.
PVC isn't that expensive and with the supplies you buy for the job.
You already have enough to just cut it off and add what's needed.
If find a flange or a good piece I want to save I still rather cut it out.
When you're good. You don't cut into the piece you want to save.
That makes sense. My situation was in a hot tub and it was critical that I salvage the existing connection.
flashandthepan lol funny exactly the reason I watched this video!
There are fittings called pipe extenders. You cut the old fittings out and the pipe extenders glues inside of pipe and extra length is the same size of pipe you are repairing. Use them on a reagurler basis. Have been in the Pool and Hot Tub repair business for over 33 years. Best invention ever. Hope this helps some of the people out there trying to do things right.
Randy I bet you been in the business for 30 year's but have you ever come across the one eyed pipe snake? Me personally I have never seen one but I did hear that a fella named Randy was a professional when it comes to handling the 1 eyed pipe snake.
Pool and spa-yes. Plumbing DWV-no
Not sure if others mentioned, but using a sawsall for this is the equivalent of using a sledgehammer to drive a nail. I used a dremel tool instead, it worked great. You have a lot more control and I did not put a single mark on the remaining coupling. took 5 minutes.
Good Tip!
Absolutely works. Used a sparkplug socket in the fitting and heated it up. Slow and low and was able to twist the pipe out. Thank you thank you. There are so many crap posts saying it is not possible. Your advise is fantastic.
I just replaced a 2' cleanout wye fitting buried in the foundation using this method although I did use a heat gun instead. It worked way better than I expected. I had no idea that you could remove the fittings and reuse the pipe without cutting fittings off first. Heated them up after cutting majority of old wye fitting off first due to clearance (behind the bush directly under my gas meter...damn). Thank you very much Chris!...saved me a thousand bucks I'll bet.
Well the glues chemically weld the plastic to make the bond and the heat melts that and the pipe so... wouldn't expect the salvaged pipe to reliably stay seal under any kind of pressurized use.
I used this heated coupling idea on two projects this last weekend. One on PVC inground pool equipment and secondly a bathroom sink drainage replacement. The heated coupling idea worked perfectly. I kept telling my wife, how did someone come up with this idea? Much higher thinking than you or I. The first two methods are unpredictable and risky. Imagine having to dig up PVC piping for a replacement of inground pool equipment. The coupling method is very specific and not destructive to surrounding equipment. If you want before & after pics, let me know. Thank you for the ingenious idea RCWCO.
I'm not sure if others have tried this method, but SS couplings are very expensive, I found a workaround, that includes purchasing the required number of washers that closely meet the inside diameter of the PVC pipe that needs to be replaced. Find a bolt & nut that will tightly compress the washers together. Place the head side of the bolt and all the washers inside the replacement piece of PVC. Tightly secure the bolt on the threads, making sure the washers are aligned. Galvanized, zinc, SS, it doesn't matter. The cost of a respirator and goggles is much less than a single SS coupling.
Thank you for those great ideas and examples. It got myself and my wife on what we could use since we didn't have a pipe to salvage the existing 2" drain pipe that had absolutely no extra pipe to cut and have enough to reattach a fitting. A HEAT GUN WORKED GREAT!!! Heat guns aren't super expensive but this didn't create any emissions. It had a curled attachment that helped direct the heat. I set it to 750 and kept checking until I was able to start peeling the pvc out. Just had to share that experience!
I've used the first method to remove a broken flange from under a toilet. Plumbers wanted a couple hundred to remove the broken flange which was glued to the inside of the sewage pipe. Using a handheld hacksaw, I cut grooves 1 inch apart into the flange then chiseled them out. Took about 30 minutes to remove a 4 inch flange but saved me hundreds.
RunBof Diver and a plumber will FIX it when it fails
I used method 3 with a $2.95 1.5" x 3" threaded nipple pipe from Home Depot. PVC uni joint broke at the intake where my pump hooks up to a Jandy 3 way black plastic pool valve with 3 skimmers and main brain plumbed in with white PVC pipe. Would have been quite a job plus the expensive Jandy cost. Thanks so much for the 3 illustrations. NO BRAINER People -method 3 works great and yields super clean removal. Jandy is like new for a now simple connection. Just do it exactly as Chris in this video does it. Don't cut it, don't smack in a screw driver, just push softened PVC in with screwdriver tip then roll out with long nose pliers.
Hey USA Mark, thanks a gazillion. I am doing that right now. I can't find a cap for the tee. So I can't cut the line there, and I just wanted to leave one line alone and I already cut the broken valve off from 2 inches below ground and will run the lines separately up to the pump. Maybe I can save the second line with a good valve if I can get the tee off.
Big thanks you for your video! I'd seen a snippet on an IG reel of handyman hacks that showed a flammable liquid applied to a PVC welded joint, lit on fire , the piece of cut PVC softens and is twisted out. But I didn't believe it would work. This is what made me appreciate your video all the more, you took the time to try 4 methods, discussed the potential hazards of each and compared the results.
I found an 1-1/4 inch copper pipe segment (btw, big thanks for the tip NOT to use galvanized) that fit inside the 1-1/2" PVC piece I needed to remove. I attached it to a pair of long nose vise grips, heated it up for about 30 seconds with my trusty MAP torch, inserted into the PVC pipe section, slowly turned it so all sections would get heated and after about 45 seconds, I was able to work the cut piece out and the section was good enough to use again!
Your video made the kitchen sink drain reconfigure go very smoothly!
Thank you Chris! I had a cracked 90 deg El that needed replacing. I used the hot coupling method to melt the old part and very easily remove it - it worked like a charm! Without this I would have to have replaced the entire assembly which would have taken several hours to tear everything out and start all over. you do a great job on all your videos! Thanks,
I had a 1/2 inch threaded pvc pipe on a sprinkler head that broke off at the T fitting in the ground. I used the method of heating up a piece off steel and soften the threaded piece of PVC pipe. 5 minutes later , presto!, I had it removed. You saved me a lot of work. Thanks for great post!
Option 3 worked for me for removing a 1in pipe in an outside sprinkler line. I had a break right by a 3 way connector so it was worthwhile for me to get the pipe out of the connector. I just heated an old cheap socket with a propane burner and set it in with needle nose pliers. Thanks for the idea.
Lol I watched the video because I have the exact same situation as you described and I was going to do the same thing. Curious what size socket fit into the 1" pipe?
Best video I’ve seen in how to remove glued pvc, THIS THING WORKS, I did the hot metal ( last test ) !! Thank you
I could see the heated metal (#3) as the only viable method in the field. If you think about trying to remove the fitting while still attached to some type of installation then heating the metal works best. If you needed to, you could even heat the metal more while it is still in the pipe using the torch. It would likely work on a horizontal removal as well rather than just straight up. Great video...
Thanks for the comment!
In the first method if you use a small hacksaw rather than a sawzall, you'll have much more success and don't have to worry about cutting too deep. Also what was not said is when you get all the bits of pipe out the fitting you need to take sandpaper and remove all the bits of residual glue and pipe and sand the cup of the fitting smooth.
Good advice!
This is an old post that I ran across so I thought I would comment. I've used Ram bits with great success. Method 3 actually worked quite well in the demonstration.
The third way worked amazing, mind blown, saved me from having to buy a whole new pressure tank, hundreds $ saved, thank you!
I see that this video is a couple years old so I assume you have seen these but, I use Socket Saver drill bits and they work awesome with very little cost for the bits. No flames and no cutting into the fittings.
I didn't have a stainless steel coupling....I choose a combination of option 1 and 2 together and it worked like a charm. Cutting the slots and heating it up worked just as well as what I'd expect option 3 to be....but no real basis for that. thank you!
I recently removed an old toilet flange using the first method. It works a lot better when it’s not moving around while trying to cut it.
The other 2 methods are awesome but I wouldn’t introduce fire to a fitting while in place. Methane and hydrogen sulfide gases and fire don’t mix well.
Great video. I use a heat gun and a flat head screw driver. Works like a million bucks plus much less smoke. 5 minute job👍🏻
Sincerely appreciate your well/related videos!
Surprised so many commenters here don't understand this is Not about "salvaging" a 99 cent fitting.
I do like "socket savers", work great if you grind/file the blades down some so they don't wallow out fittings: Heat gun works good if access too limited.
But Maybe you don't have those tools...
To all the "Bah Humbuggers": Here's the ANSWER: Whatever WORKS Is RIGHT!
It's about saving a 59 cent fitting.
I thank you for your attempt by removing pvc couplings from pipes, the way I do it is as follow I plug the pipe with a rag very tight so nothing goes down the drain, then I used my dremol tool using a round bit cuter and I start cutting vertical groves , be sure to clean as you go trying not to go too deep .I do my best to be one sixteen away from pvc pipe.
then tap it with a 1/4" wood chisel tool lightly and wala. it breaks of pice by pice or some times it just falls apart.
thank you I do like your videos and yes I have used some of your ideas in my present job, as a handyman.
thank you
I thoroughly enjoyed your video! The third method you demonstrated is pure genius!! I can't wait to try it!!! I have used the fist method you demonstrated with mixed results. In that regard, I found that sawing the groves by hand and using a fifth groove, parallel to and w/i an inch or less of one of the others, to help get the initial piece of pipe out easier, goes a long way towards improving the final outcome. Most people don't have the patience to do this. Another method I've used, with pretty darn good results, is similar to your second method, only I use a heat gun instead of a flame. (Not as satisfying, but much safer when attempting it indoors!) When using this method, I shove a sopping-wet rag tightly into the PVC pipe so that it rests in the fitting just past the inner end of the stub of pipe to be removed. (And before anyone gets all exercised about the possibility of the rag sliding down into the nether regions of the piping system, I can attest, from personal experience, that such an offending rag is easily removed by using a pipe snake with an auger on the end. Phew!!!) If possible, I also wrap another sopping-wet rag around the exterior of the fitting, especially if it is in a wall cavity. I then evenly heat the entire inner surface of the pipe to be removed from the fitting with the heat gun until it becomes soft and pliable. Then I take a pair of long needle-nose pliers and proceed as you demonstrated. The only advantage I see of my method, over the third method you demonstrated, is that it can be done on an installed horizontal section of pipe & fitting in situ, as opposed to a detached section of pipe & fitting that is conveniently sitting vertically on a concrete floor where you are merely trying to salvage the (often expensive) fitting. My concern would be that the action of gravity, acting on the heated S.S. pipe coupling (which would have some weight to it) inside the stub of PVC pipe would cause a preferential heating/melting at the bottom portion of a horizontally mounted PVC pipe and/or fitting. One other thing: These methods seem to work fairly well on PVC pipe and fittings; but, for reasons I have not yet determined, they do NOT work well at all on ABS pipe and fittings.
No mean comment here or sage advice. I learned a bit from the video and enjoyed it immensely.
I have heated the whole fitting and pulled out the inside piece. But I like the hot steel better. Thanks.
I used the third method worked like a champ! This saved me from having to tear out a section of the wall. Thank you!
Hi Chris, that was a Great Video and informative. I was wondering, have you ever tried using a heat gun on PVC glued fittings. Low heat, heating the inside and outside for short time and using Channel Lock Pliers and Gloves to separate the fittings.
i would think that a heat gun would compromise both fittings , maybe make them out of round , hot metal on the inside diameter lower heat transfer is my strong guess , unless it is a drain or non pressure
Thank you for posting. I used a wallpaper heat gun, channel locks, and vise grip pliers and was able to remove a 4" section out of a PVC soil stack tee in less than 25 minutes with no damage to the soil stack. One downside, I drop a small piece of PVC down the stake, which will probably cause an issue down the road. I heated the inside of the pipe that needed to be removed and peeled it out easily with heating it in small sections. I did, however, score the pipe with a sawsaw. Worked nicely without any real fumes or fire! Wear glasses and mask!
Glad to hear the video helped!
Thanks brother appreciate you taking the time to research and test the methods
very interesting. 570 comments and I did not read them all. I worked in the landscape irrigation industry and my pipe vendor sold a tool that was used with a cordless drill to bore the old PVC pipe from the fitting. It takes some practice but it had worked well for me in the field.
You know I have a PVC sewer problem and before I can finish that bathroom I've got to unglue some PVC lines that go to the toilet now I've never did it before so thank you for your video man and you have a great Monday morning.... PS I have faith in you... Wait I mean me....thanks
I will for sure try and save this method #3 in the old memory bank for an emergency. I have tried the chisel and cut method before with almost zero luck!
Thank you Chris - from another Chris. Video really helped me out with some 4” schedule 40 tees I’m trying to save. Appreciate ya!
In the field for quick repairs where you have to work on site the cold method works best. Especially when you need to remove pvc couplings instead of pvc pipes. Most of the time you're working with small sizes 1/2 inch to 1 inch. In which case you carefully saw the coupling or elbow in halves and proceed to pry with flat screwdriver and twist off with nose pliers.
Genius safety tip from 3:50 in: take your plumbing outside before disassembly. Brilliant!
In reality, you might* be able to pull this off inside a building with:
1) a fire extinguisher and a plan
2) a box fan with a filter on the inlet side, set up near the burn so the air gets run though.
*on second thought, the fan trick works great with dust in a wood shop or sanding a concrete floor, but I'm NOT so sure it'll work with vapors from burning plastic. I'd probably want to put the fan alone in a window forcing air into the house, then close all the other doors and windows and turn on the bath fan - but that's not perfect. Be safe!
Occasionally you will run into a job where digging out the fitting is very helpful in certain places. We have for years done this. We would try to get both the levels the same when looking at the broken off piece, then we would just use the propane torch directly on the pipe slowly heating all around just like the s/s coupling did and we would actually let the pipe and most of the time the fitting get the PVC soft and use a thin blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Just force the thin blade screwdriver between the pipe and fitting wall and separate it a bit so that you can insert your needle nose pliers all the way to bottom and just twist it out. Have done this successfully numerous times. In comes in handy in sticky situations. Slow and sure will usually do the trick.
Excellent video! clean & simple & informative. I forgot the 3rd method & was playing with fire! thanks again! When I'm close enough to the kitchen the stove or outside I use the BBQ.
I use a small hand saw then a heated piece of pipe. You can cut a slot in the fitting without gouging the the outer fitting in under 2 minutes. Then use the heated pipe and peel it out.
Thank you for the great advice! I fixed my pool water features ball valves!!!
Excellent!
I used number 1 out of laziness. So far so good!
Awesome video! What do you think about Boring it out with a "Socket Saver"?
The mallet and screwdriver worked perfectly for a pool filter! Thank you!
Method no. 3 is the best of all as far as heating method
I use the saw and screw driver method maybe once or twice a month (only because I try not to fuck up that often) and it works like a charm if you’re not a dummy with the saw. And the primer and glue will kinda fuse all that shit together so don’t be afraid of gouges. I’ve been doing it for 14 years and never had any problems and my father has for over 30 years. So we’re no rookies.
The 3rd method has my vote.
I just saved a trip to the store for a green Orbit manifold coupling.
The pvc was 3/4. Stuck a deep set 14mm socket in a vice to heat it up and keep it secure . Seemed easier to handle the coupling this way.
Coronavirus is still out there, and I am 68, plus my wife has major immune deficiency, so it was more than just about money.
as a plumber when I'm under a vanity in a customers house, I can't set the pvc on fire, that's why I like the heat gun method it takes more patience, but the customer doesn't have to put up with the toxic fumes
O llamar a los bomberos!!!
Thanks! Hope one of your methods works for my stuck shower thread connector! (Coincidentally, I live in your area too!)
You should do a video like this but try and save the pipe instead of the fitting. That’s what had to try and do today at work in a restricted hole I broke in concrete. Had to replace a broken low heel.
That's a great suggestion, thanks! How did you do it?
On this old house, Richard showed how to remove the piece by using a special hole saw the same size as the inner pipe. Worked great without damaging the coupler.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. sawzaw chisel flat head screwdriver and a hammer. But ended up being a fail and plus it took hours totally a waste of time
Hacksaw blade,use it to split the fitting and peel off.
I knew a crossdresser that broke a high heel on a hole in concrete. He fell; to re his dress and smudged his lipstick. All that and he still got my bathroom remodeled on time and under budget.
When your near the depth you want, with the sawzall, release the trigger, and use the sawzall like a hand saw. Much finer control.
There is an attachment you can purchase at the plumbing supply house that is used on a drill to remove the tubing from the socket of the fitting.
The 3rd procedure was much safer then the 2nd because no open flame from the procedure of 3 occurs except for the torch heating the stainless fitting. Less pollution to air also no burning primer.
Plumber had to use method #1 to replace the closet flange. Home architects and designers don't plan on you ever needing to replace or repair anything. They don't leave enough room to use a reasonable length of pipe so you can just cut the pipe and add a coupling. So there are places where you have to do this or turn the job into a big job ($$$).
For someone that ain't got the extra money at the moment,this is great. Also great with people that's got some scrap parts and needing a quick fix or want to save a dollar.
These methods aren’t for harry homeowner. Leave this shit to the professionals.
All three seemed doable though you seem to struggle and I couldn’t take a chance of scoring the piece needed nor could I find my heat gun. I saw a different video that I followed, pouring boiling hot water over the joint while using pipe wrenches on the two pieces, The seal broke apart immediately with no damage to either piece and it was easy Peezy!
I like this. Especially if you have a special fitting such as a "Bath Tub Overflow" fitting that you can not just buy, without buying the whole kit for $$+.
Like it. I would add another method: heat gun to avoid burning down the house!
Outstanding!! You saved me a bunch!! #3 the best and fastest
MY TIP TO YOU GUYS WATCHING 👀👀👀...use a stainless steel hose clamp attach to outside of the PVC fitting it protects & reinforces the fitting from being damaged -- wear gloves at all times in case you slip with screwdriver . 👍🏻
Worst & Co. coming with that straight fire AGAIN!
Use a paint stripper heat gun - works like a charm. Heat the inner pipe up till flexable then long nose pliers and she comes right out. Lot less messy.
Good video
I have some old fittings that I have saved to reuse.
I am in a rural area of Eastern Australia and I am 45 minutes driving time from the nearest big town where I can buy a new fitting, and I am on tank water, ( no mains water available at all here)so I do all my own plumbing.
I have learned something from your video as I just assumed that it would destroy the main fitting trying to get the stub of pipe out after it had been glued with that terrible PVC glue that you use on pipe fittings, as it holds the pipes so strongly together.
Although I tend to use clear silicone on non-critical above ground pipes between tanks etc.
Up to now, I have just used a reducer or another joiner onto the old stub, where possible.
Now I know that you can get the old pipe off the fitting, so thank you for showing how its done.
Should try small cut on inside of the PVC pipe, needle nose vise grips, heat pvc with hot air gun, then grab the PVC rotate the inner PVC pipe counter clockwise. This method works without getting stabbed by accident. And the PVC is still installed on the equipment. Works for me many many times in small hot tub fitting replacement or swimming pools repairs, leaks etc.
it really boils down, to where the pipe is and what was in it.
Thank you for the video it was amazing never know how easy you process worked!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent...great job and so pleasant a presentation!
I think you should have reglued the coupling to a pipe for all three methods an added pressure. Something tells me that might be slightly out of round and the only thing holding pressure back would be glue. My opinion only
Heating a short metal pipe and use of a vise grip is brilliant
I find if you put a 2 prong fork into the heated pipe ( one inside the pipe and one outside the pipe ) just outside the fitting and heat up the pipe inside the fitting, by rotating the fork, theres no need to beat and bang...just shove the fork in and twist. The pvc pipe will merely roll up and pull away from the fitting, leaving the fitting pristine. It helps to use a strap wrench to hold the fitting while turning the pvc pipe. Use a heat gun instead of fire
I tried this method. Me and. my family are now living in a hostel :) ... Joking aside, this looks great but not for a pipe in situ. Major thanks anyhow...
With elbows and tees you can use a couple sets of small/ needlenose pliers. Put your foot on the joint & put pliers on opposite sides of inner tube.
Helpful video! Nice production quality too.
Thanks for watching! :)
the only thing i dont like about the stainless is now you have to have the right size of metal pipe around for each size you may do.... good video
Thanks for watching!
Now try doing that while your under a sink standing on your head.
pat K LOL
That's what I'm talking about
It's easier if you stand on the other guys head.
Man, I'm facing the same issue! Cracked pipe right next to the fitting, right at the back of a deep cupboard. It's so tight under there and there's no room for wastage of pipe.
I might hook up my vacuum cleaner to suck the gases right at the source and exhaust direct to outdoors. The hot metal cylinder method is by far the most scientific.
Or underground covered in oak tree roots
I found the best method is a heat gun And a little bit of patience works best it’s softens the pipe makes it easy to remove it can also be used to clean some of the old glue out of the existing pipe
We just removed a few fittings with a heat gun and it worked easily and quickly. All the methods shown here are likely to damage pipes and the ones with heat are a fire hazard.
I cut my junction pipe, ran the saw up the pipe, smashed it with a c-clamp, then got the rest by twisting it with a strap wrench. Great video, also wanted to share my success. Granted, mine was leaking so it wasn't a perfect mate/connection. If it were, I don't know if would have worked.
I like number three the best! As a plumber for over 35 years, I'm tired of dealing with # 1's and # 2's!
Off to enjoy my retirement!
Who wants some good tools? Just pay for shipping, and you can have them. 🙌
If that's a serious offer--sign me up!
Best way is an insider fitting 🤷♂️ no heat no pulling nothing just glue n cleaner 👌
Very useful video and our methods.
Great ideas and useful video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Like the videos FYI if you would put the fittings back into the vise and put your chisel in at the point that fitting intercepts the jaw of the vise it gives you a little backing and will keep it from damaging your collar just sayin 😎
In the old days they used to burn wood buildings to save the nails. This guy could save a lot of fittings in his lifetime and I find that admirable.
Instead of a saws-all take a hacksaw apart in put it back together inside the fitting. You can get a better cut with less chance of cutting the fitting.
Solid advice!
Can you show us how to re use ABS fittings using only a phased plasma rifle in the 40 watt range??
Send us one and we'd be glad to! 😂
Thanks for that, I am just about to try method 3 on my pool coupling. Wish me luck.
Why not use a COMBINATION method? Add 2 cuts w/Sawzall before heating interior either w/burned off primer or SS pipe piece? That will make it easier to remove inner pieces as it will be in 2 pieces - easier to twist out than 1 piece. You don't have to cut completely through the inner pieces as partial cuts will separate easily when twisting after heating.
Would this work good if I was using it for a fitting that was going to be under pressure?
it is far more expensive than heating a metal fitting and inserting but there are fitting saver reams and it would be interesting to hear others' experiences using them.
I have found that it depends on the type and age of the glue. A 1st floor bath was added to my house 25 years ago. They did not use primer and "PVC" glue ( thick and MAP gas yellow) and all joints are brittle.
i have sawed a couple times where someone asked for help...saw 3 cuts only get 1 piece out and work the edge...sandpaper if its gouged up..i haven't had any problems. .easy does it
Instead of a sawzall use a die grinder. Much more control and you can see the interior of the cut as you go. Use a 1/2" carbide Burr it makes a nice open channel you can monitor. Free the edge and pry/roll out. Usually 1 cut rarely 2 and it's out.
Cool - this may prevent me from having to rebuild a 3 x 2" ball valve manifold.
I used the technique and it did work. It saved me a lot of time and money.
Really appreciate the video #3 looks like a genius idea to me thank You!
For couplings why not simply heat a short piece of pipe that fits in the coupling. Now heat the end of that piece of pipe and insert it into another piece of pipe the same size. You've made a swedge for your pipe. Now pull it out and heat another piece of pipe that you want to use and insert the swedge into the pipe for several inches depending on the size of the pipe. Pull it out and you're left with a bell on the end of the pipe you plan on using. You can wrap a little paper around the swedge before using it to give a little more room in the bell if needed. Now you have a pipe with the coupling on it without spending any money.
Exactly what I needed to See!
appreciate the efforts made but may be difficult to accomplish when the pipe and fittings are suspended in their place??
another way is rimming it drill and hole saw bit. But I like your heated metal pipe method
That core heating was awesome.
It's a brilliant ideas, but will be discourage on site.. Good to be in the work shop. Thank you.