4 GENIUS Ways To Remove Glued PVC Fittings | GOT2LEARN
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- Опубликовано: 3 май 2024
- Here are 4 safe ways to remove/salvage/upcycle a glued PVC/ABS/CPVC fitting to save $$$ !!
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DISCLAIMER: Got2Learn is NOT responsible for any damage done to a property of which the plumbing wasn't done by a professional, I do not recommend doing your own plumbing if you are unsure about what you are doing, always hire a LICENSED contractor when doing any type of plumbing so you can be covered by insurances if something does happen, these videos are for entertainment purposes only!
Amazon affiliate links to all the products I used in this video:
Milwaukee 28 Holesaw Kit: amzn.to/2oivWW5
18" RIDGID Pipe Wrench: amzn.to/2mb0sRi
Channel Lock 8" Needle Nose Pliers: amzn.to/2nIfgac
REED Clean Ream 1 1/2" (better but $$$): amzn.to/2m9srkg
REED Clean Ream 1 1/2" (cheaper model $$): amzn.to/2m5nN6J
Cheaper socket saver ($):amzn.to/2mGaJ8p
Milwaukee M18 Brushless Drill: amzn.to/2onk1qb
Milwaukee One handed Hacksaw (Reciprocating blade compatible): amzn.to/2nD7ONI
In doing pool equipment plumbing, pipe extenders (aka "insiders") are used extensively.
A pipe extender is a PVC fitting that glues to the *inside* of the pipe, with about an inch and a half sticking out which is at the same OD as the pipe.
Cut off the pipe at the fitting, clean the part of the pipe that is still glued into the fitting and glue the extender in. From there you can glue a coupler or 90 onto it.
Some extenders are glued inside to inside pipe, like a coupler, but internally.
I've used sizes from 3/4 to 2.5 inches, dozens of them.
Every plumber should know about these.
These cost a few dollars each and work like a CHARM!
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@@mayorb3366 Okay in most cases, but you are reducing the diameter of the pipe at those joins. May or may not be an issue, depending on the amounts of water and pressure. Just something to keep in mind.
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I've been a licensed general building contractor for 40 years, this is an excellent how to video. I would add only that after going through all that work oftentimes it's difficult to seal the new pipe to the old fitting so I would encourage that a person use the cleaner as shown there and then thoroughly glue both fittings and make sure to rotate the new pipe as inserting it approximately 1/4 turn and push firmly and you'll have a good chance of success. additionally if the pipe that needs to be repaired happens to be behind a cabinet, it may be much less costly especially in labor to simply cut a section of the wall out to access the fitting and remove it completely.
Is there a slip pvc fitting when you can't move the pipes?
@@AgentOffice Yes, but I would only use it on a sprinkler system, or somewhere that it is not critical if it leaks a little. I would not trust it under constant high pressure.
Further more rotate the pipe and hold pressure on it for a solid min after so it doesn’t start to separate. You’re not gluing the pipes in basic terms you’re causing a chemical reaction that essentially melts them together
Can’t thank you enough for these tips! I’m dealing with some horrific contractor issues, but these tips will make my life much easier!
Great video on how to fix a "huge" problem for some of us do-it yourself home owners. Previously I would cut the pipe and glue on a new fitting, but that does not work for in-wall fittings obviously. Thanks tons for these tips! Subscribed!
I’m never throwing away my old holesaws!! Killer trick.
Yes, surprised it works so well to melt glue/pipe, and without burning everything else around it.
I'm a plumber and use the reed cutter quite a bit and it works great. You're right about the battery life.. and the hole saw trick is great to know. Thanks!!
😎😎😎
I’ve done the saw & screwdriver method many times. It does take a while to do but now that I know about the heated hole saw method I have a new preferred way.
;)
Thanks for the tips, I used the saw technique, with a bread knife, very slow and gently. Worked like a charm and zero tools needed to purchase!
Awesome!!
Usually 99.5% of situations would be easier to just cut the pipe back, stick a new coupling on and go from there. In twenty odd years as a plumber I’ve only removed a PVC fitting once, that was to change the fitting not to reuse it rather than dig out concrete floor the pipe was set in. Can’t take a chance any fitting will fail if you’ve messed around with it!
Love your video's. You always come up with great practical ways of solving problems that most of us have run into from time to time. Till this moment the only way I have ever removed a glued fitting was to use method #4 (cutting it) and it's very time consuming and tiring. I didn't even know they had cutting tools to do this and never thought about heating up a hole saw to melt the glue (all great ideas). Keep the videos coming, I always learn something new.
😇😇😇 thanks Rich!
I used the last method. I cut one at 12 o'clock and then one at 3 o'clock. I had doctor appointment at 6 o'clock so I couldn't cut at 6pm. I'm just waiting for 9 o'clock now. 2 more hours to go....
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👌👌👌👌
If you have other plans... there is always tomorrow.
Brilliant
Haha...😂😂😂
,😂
Broke the PVC pipe coming out of a T in the sprinkler system. Method #4 saved me big time. Many thanks for the innovative repair methods.
I've had my same cheap cutter for 1 1/2 and 2 inch fittings since the 80's. They still work. Mine came with guides for the different schedules of pipe.
Niceeee
Some Alternatives (I've used most all of em): A die grinder or even a Dremel tool (if it's the best thing you have) will do the trick with a variety of bits. A single cut carbide cylinder burr in a 1/4 die grinder will do the slot method in seconds. Keep the RPMs down or take short light cuts and skip around the pipe to prevent melting. The venerable old "Dragon Skin" or drum sander on a drill will work too. It doesn't have to be cordless, The old standby Milwaukee holeshooter will run the counterbores all day long without breaking a sweat. Real contractors always have one on hand. If you don't want to take the temper out of your expensive hole saw, use a galvanized or black iron coupling or nipple to heat. Sockets work well too, go for a 6 point impact socket for maximum heat retention, and you can attach an extension bar as a handle/safety catch.
You can even heat an old screwdriver and melt the grooves for the slot and collapse method. As with all of these, commons sense and safety come 1st.
The most useful tool in getting out of such situations lies between the ears. Be calm, think it through. Things like putting a wire or magnet on the tool so it won't fall 2 stories to the next bend are worth considering before lighting the torch....
Happy plumbing!
All good tips, thank you so very much for sharing!!!
Great tips. Thanks.
When faced with the removal of a pipe from a fitting we use your 4 saw cut method a little differently, we make 2 cuts,1/2 inch a part on the top side of the pipe because water sits on the bottom of the pipe not the top so if a cut that is a little deep normally is not a problem, you can use a power saw this way just very carefully, nothing a little extra PVC cement won't fix, tap out the 1/2 center piece with a screw driver creating a space, then start on one side and work the remaining piece of the pipe out by twisting or popping it free in a circular motion, usually works good but takes a little finessing, normally we don't use heat but I will try your hot hole saw trick next time, great tips!
Yes, your way is actually better than mine, never thought of doing that, great job!!!
That is the method I was taught years ago. Takes considerable skill and patience. I have chipped a few old fitting hubs figuring this one out.
Thank you for you post, I’m grateful. I used the hole saw/heat method to fix a broken pipe in a 5 gang sprinkler manifest. Sharing your experience saved me countless hours and money in rebuilding the manifest.
Glad it helped!!!
This channel has made me understand plumbing, I knew nothing before and have learned so much. Love this guy
Wow, that's so cool, thanks for sharing that with me 🙏🙏🙏
@@Got2Learn :)
As always, eXcellent info! Also: 1) A right-angle drive adapter for the drill might let you use the extractor between studs.
2) Here in rural areas, we often use the gray heavy bodied weld cement for in ground. It has an additive that lets it stay slightly flexible to allow for ground shifting. Even after long dry times, it acts soft & gummy. That means high friction-heat-melting occurs when hole-sawing which can badly distort outer fitting. It will work, but you have to pause and let it cool every few minutes. AND the gray cement sets slowly and creates a deep, thorough, true-weld with the pipe. That means you cannot just snap out quarter cut pieces, because if bond was done correctly first time, the fitting, pipe, and weld will become one piece of plastic.
3) Heating cup hole saws not only removes the coating, but that variety is usually just high-speed steel, so you will likely ruin the temper and reduce the life to less than half (unless you later re-temper them).
I bought a brushless right angle drill - one of those things you don't appreciate until you need to do something like this - then it's the best thing ever!
The heated hole saw is something I've never seen and is a pretty good idea! Even on a riser, a stick and a bit of steel spline would keep it in position. Tried the torch/heat gun direct heat once... after contorting the fitting I have been using the last method, saw and screw driver but have almost always marred the I.D. of the fitting piece being kept. Thank you!!!
Try using a wet cloth on the pvc you wish to keep with a heat gun and see If that helps.
Awesome! First, this is the only video I've seen that uses the hot hole saw trick. Second, I almost threw out my old, dull hole saws today, after buying a new Spyder carbide set. Now I can breath new life into those old tools that were trash. It's great to find gold nuggets of information thanks!
Glad I could help!
I just want to thank you! The method of the circle saw worked perfectly and it was not effort at all.
THANK YOU!!! I was installing a 2” drain line for the backwash function of my pool so it would stop flooding the yard. The GLUED pipe fittings into the 5-way valve on the filter were more brittle than I expected and the pipe broke off at the valve. A new 5-way is about $120, if you can find one locally. Plus, you’re going to burn a LOT of time replacing all the plumbing connections to it. I tried your heating the hole saw technique AND IT WORKED LIKE A CHAMP! Saved me hundred of dollars and hours of my time! Thank you for putting this out here, it really helped me when I was in a pinch!
Yesterday I tried your heating the pipe method, I had to remove a 1-1/2" Y from a kitchen sink drain stub out, going to a single bowl instead of a double, pipe coming out of the wall was to short to just cut and add a new fitting, I cut the fitting off at the hub, as I told you in a previous comment I made a 1/4" notch in the hub on the "top" of the fitting, popped out the notch with a screw driver and I used a paint striper heat gun to "warm" the hub since it was the hub on the outside of the pipe on inside, once the left over piece reached the correct temperature I started the removal with a screw drive to get it started and then rolled it off with a pair of needle nose pliers, worked great! Thanks for the great tips!
Awesome!!! 💪💪💪
Thank you for your video. I have successfully used your favorite method for a broken pipe in a concrete kitchen wall. Getting in done using this method saved me a lot of money.
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2. Is a very good idea will try that in field. On something that's been glued awhile . Old stuff the kind that cracks easy . Ill bet is works
20 year Plumber here never knew The holesaw trick thank you
Cool man!!
Same.
Darrin's coils&clouds don’t do it.
34 year plumber here.
@@Iwillnotbepushed so what methods do you use? 22 year Plumber here. Just good to learn new things.
Seems fake. He didn't even glue the pipe... it was just primed...
Always something to learn here. I salvage my plastic and GI fittings and make unusual sculptures and lamps from them. Funny, though. I've had to remove most because of either too little, too much PVC weld and/or not giving it 1/4 turn when assembling, so they come off pretty easily LOL. I'm pretty sure I saw a video of yours where you explain how to properly assemble PVC joints, and the effects of under/over-schmooing the pipes, but I think it was part of a longer video. I searched your published videos, but couldn't find it. It'd be great to see it as a separate video because occasionally I have the need to school jack-of-all-trade types and I often point them your way. Cheers, mate!
So nice of you, thank you so so much!!!
Of course these came out easy; this phony only used primer and not glue to hold the pipes together. Look closely, no glue to be seen only primer. A socket saver is the only way to do this. GTFOH your foreign fakery you accented imbecile.
Brilliant! I have a pool system with multiple leaks after the Texas deep freeze. The couplings, valves and equipment were so closely installed to each other, I thought I had no other option than to re-plumb or redesign the layout. Removal of the piping only with the heating element method looks like it will save me a lot of work. Never mind finding couplings these days (Feb 2021 in Texas).
Glad it helped!
my central air condensation line clogged recently. I thought no big deal I will clean it out and she will be good as new. When I went to remove the P trap, the entire P trap line was glued all the way into a pvc floor drain inside of cement! To make things worse I cut a section out to clean it thinking I would just use a coupler to put it back on and the pvc snapped off in the floor drain! D: thank you for the video im going to try the heated hole saw trick and carefully hold it inside the broken piece of pipe and see if I can carefully remove it to run a new p trap line. cheers!
I own a plumbing company here in okc and I've been on the job for 23 years now and I've never seen or heard of that first trick. Can't wait to try it !!
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The hole saw method is great! I wish I had seen that on the last DWV system I built!
;) There will be another occasion :)
Thanks for the video. I'm partial to the heat gun trick but I always keep a spare chunk of pipe around to put in the fitting as soon as I remove the old pipe to make sure that the fitting that I'm saving stays round.
Thank you so mych buddy, good input ;)
Thanks for the tip. The heated hole saw method worked like a charm. Easy peasy nice and easy!!!
Sweet, glad it worked out for you Luis!
You did well. You got to the point quickly. So many go into lengthy explanations which are not really necessary. You didn’t waste time.
😉😉😉
Hey dude! The hole saw along with torch trick saved me from having to go and purchase another 4" 90° long sweep elbow and 4" gutter adapter that I prematurely bonded.
I hadn't even finished the trench but yet, for some reason, I primered and cemented them.
Lesson learned...and also learned how to undo the error in case I forget this lesson in the future.
Thanks for the tip🤘🤘
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Your last," trick", is the one I've always tried first for years. I've also used an inside pipe cutter. As long as you have enough pipe left after cutting off the fitting. I do remodeling anyway, so cutting the drywall and repairing is not that time consuming either. And saves a lot of headache..
Your heat idea is the best. I never had to do it yet but glad you showed me how.
Glad it was helpful!
If you should choose to use a handheld blow dryer or heat gun, put a wet rag over the pvc you wish to preserve. Using a wet rag can also prevent melting or deforming of pvc to maintain structural integrity. Make the necessary adjusments in terms of how close your holding the hot air to prevent over heating.
Yes. 100%. I learned this the hard way on some proprietary quick connect fittings on a pool filter. Did the first with a heat gun and it worked, but was a pain to control the heating and prevent burning. Next switched to boiling the fitting. This was easier, and both let me clear the 2" pipe from the socket and re-glue for a water tight pressure seal, but both allowed the OTHER END of the fitting (male slip fit with captive o-ring on exterior and lock nut) to deform out of round. This caused leaks around the o-rings. Oh well. 60 dollar mistake. Should have bought the fancy Reed socket saver. Would have paid for itself and then I'd have the cool tool leftover.
I used the heated hole saw method on a 4” supply line that had a small leak. I had to heat my hole saw and ended up using the torch inside the hole saw while inside the pipe. The outcome was favorable as it save a lot of time on a difficult repair.
That is really cool Jason, thanks for sharing man ;)
Ha, most of me says that this is a big waste of time but there is this plumbing job that I periodically have on a remote island that involves a long forested walk then a 1 hour boat ride and finally a quick drive just to get to the hardware store only to repeat it all again to get back. Still, it's always better to carry a bag of couplers and more fittings than you need. Anyhow, this is useful information for PVC jobs that have cracked with no room between the fittings on something like a plumbing manifold. Hole saw method scores big points, thanks.
Thank you. You have given me good idea of using pvc fitting. I've used your trick of hitting iron pipe to release fitting.. 👍👍👍😊
Awesome!
Interesting, good to know! I hope I never need to do this, but it does happen. All of the pipes I have seen once properly "glued" will not just let go. The cement does not just stick to the PVC surface (like a braze) but when done properly makes a permanent weld. I need to try this.
Agreed. The keyword being 'properly', of course.
Yes. You can even make your own cement in a pinch with solvent and pvc shavings. I wouldn't do it for anything pressurized though.
Properly, as in wiping primer on joint surfaces long enough/enough times to soften them so they can weld them selves together once you apply the glue.
I am a plumber in the Netherlands, nice to see this!!!
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Would you help me how to apply on netherland ..? I m a plumber too
I’ve been plumbing over 20 years and I have never seen the heated hole saw trick. Nice video and thank you for sharing.
You bet!!!
Great tips I have used many of these through trial and error. Keep up the good work
Thank you very much Tristan :)
The only thing I might edit or mention : When you first pressed a pipe in the salvaged hole you should have cleaned the dust and shavings off of the wall board. Great videos
I am a 34 year licensed Master Plumber. If you do not have experience and a steady hand the
hole saw solution will only enlarge the fitting to the point you will never get a tight seal. Glue is just that glue. It’s not meant to fill gaps. It’s a solvent that melts tight fitting pieces together.
Now if you can get to a wet joint fast enough you may have some success cutting a slice from the pipe and chiseling the piece out gently with a flat blade screw driver. Beyond that this method only works on 3” and larger fittings. Break the joint in the wall or in the floor and it’s time to cut sheetrock. Not the end of the world but now most people are in over their heads.
hub saver for me. use em a few times a month. i prefer the cheap ones as you say. lol. key with them is just being straight. have 1 1/4 to 3". have had them 4 yrs. still cut great.
In the field I used to carry a slightly modified screwdriver for what we called "chiseling the hub." Scored the pipe like you showed and then used the modified screwdriver to pop out the pipe. Had to deal with occasional damage to ABS or PVC from the other trades but not enough for the company to cough up the money for a specialty tool. Ya work with what ya got... :-)
Great video, love that there is a quality video like this that shows all the ways to salvage a fitting. The only one I haven't done is using the socket saver bit which I've been wanting to try. Really appreciate that you show cased it cause I couldn't find any videos of the reed ones being reviewed or so
Anways the one way I've salvage the fittings is using the saw method,either by hand or I've using my m18 fuel hacksaw to cut with slow control. Always works good .
Thank you Ethan, yeah you could get away with a sawzall if you have a steady hand, but there's always that risk to take, have a great day buddy!
Pretty cool info. I've never seen those but they would had come in handy over the years that's for sure. It's not very often I've had the need to remove a fitting however in the example you have shown with the pipe cut to short in demo has happened to me a few times where I've had to hand cut the pipe and pry it out of the fitting. It doesn't take that long usually. Fittings don't cost enough to justify worrying about saving fitting but in a situation where you need to connect to a pipe and your only option is to either cut out the wall or remove the pipe from the fitting then it's necessary however most of the time I will cut out the wall and redo it all but I'd do get a lot of jobs where the plumber did a half ass ruff-in and refused to come back and do the trim out so on those occasions you have to deal with whatever mess is left for you lol. In these occasions if my only problem is a few stub outs to short I consider myself lucky lol.
Exactly!
I used the heat trick with the hole saw blade today on a 2 inch DWV pipe in a 20 year old house. It was a vertical pipe so I hooked the end of the hole saw blade with a piece of wire so I wouldn't drop it in the drain. It took three tries and it came out piecemeal (not as clean as the video) but I have to say it worked like a charm. Thank you so much for brilliant idea!!!
Awesome, happy it worked for you Leo!!!!!!
Each job is completely different. No method is a one stop shop. Every idea will come in handy one day. Especially in PLUMBING!!!
Not a plumber, so bought the cheapest version of the tool I could find at 4:05, and it got the job done.
that's really what amazes me about these , they (the posters) actually help people down on the ground level, if u catch me, ,
The last method is my favorite as a plumber here in the Philippines
I had an inch and a half water pipe, schedule 40 galvanized, freeze and break one time, with the threaded part remaining in the fitting. Something you will hopefully never ever have to deal with in the Philippines. I had to carefully cut it out in the cold and remove it like he did the hand saw for PVC without damaging the threads on the tee to badly so I could reassemble it. It was one of the most miserable of jobs due to the extreme cold, the awkward work space, and the delicacy of not damaging the threads. The repair still functions to this day, decades later.
@@richhagenchicago it's common here in the Philippines. There so many times I repair like what you said.
@@ronelramos1118 I would guess from corrosion maybe. When I was in your country I notices a lot of outdoor plumbing and tropical plants. In rural areas, particularly in Ifugoa and Mountain Province, plastic water pipes were strung along the sides of roads to carry water to homes. I did not think it froze there anywhere outside of freezers and Mall of Asia's ice rink. I like your country.
Got the Milwaukee 12v system. Got the hacksawl perfect for crawl space work.
Used the first method. It was about an hour after I made up a joint that I noticed I'd missed installing a cleanout. You just saved me a lot of weirdness and/or a lot of rework.
😇🙏
Great video and great "Tricks-of-the-Trade." The only thing I might comment on is that I only say Primer applied to fitting and pipe... no PVC glue applied. You can't imagine, after 40 years in plumbing, how many PVC connections I've had to replace because ONLY Primer was applied to pipe and fitting... no glue. That's OK... keeps me in business!! Enjoyed the video.
The cement was a clear cement 😉
@5:20 for me, when considering the cost of plumbing tools, I look at how many plumbers visits I save by having the tool - which makes any tool that is less than about $150 a no-brainer, as a call-out plus repair starts at about that much. I have a full set of pipe threaders that I have only used _one single time,_ but they cost under $100 so they were a profitable purchase within an hour of me buying them. :)
I’m gonna try the hot hole saw trick. Thanks dude
Excellent examples and precise description of method. Well done young man!
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I know a true professional when I see one. This is a great channel to know even if we are not a Plummer. Subscribed👍
Thank you so much Daniel, please share if you can, it helps a bunch :)
Good video. I don't like heating a hole saw, but the same trick could be used with a piece of pipe instead of the hole saw.
The only times I have recycled a fitting it was loose and I chucked it in a lathe and cut out the pipe.
Grest idea. Using a torch on my hole saw blades....ahhhh no. I like the metal pipe idea so thanks.
Living in a very rural area were parts are not always available makes these methods very handy.
So I’m going to add my comment because one of these methods just got me out of a jam. I am redoing plumbing for a kitchen where I had to fire the contractor after a horrendous job. He had installed a P-Trap for a shower pan above a kitchen renovation. I only needed to change the direction of the drain pipe to avoid building a soffit inside the kitchen. When I ran my new drain pipe I needed to reroute the direction of the P-Trap. It was either installing a new drain which would include breaking a ceramic floor in the bathroom above and installing a new drain to run new PVC from it or using one of these ideas. I used the hole saw idea which I din’t think it would work. I tested outside before committing. It worked and then I proceeded to doing in the real environment. It actually worked and I was able to twist off the PVC nipple the so-called contractor had used. Saved me so much time and additional headaches. Thanks for your ideas.
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I usually do just one cut and use a screwdriver to lever the cut piece out
Can not tell you how many times I snapped a fitting doing this although it does work
@@bobdylan211 put a hose clamp on the hub
Same here
Heating up that hole saw certainly seems easier, quicker, and safer than setting the pipe on fire! I've used a hub saver maybe 3 times in the past 4 months for mistakes and quite a bit in general, mostly for doing re-model and plumbing repairs/customer self-install screw-ups. I get nervous every time I use one thinking I'm going to drill right though the back of a 90!
Yes heating it is my perferred method.
@kd9bwi REED Clean Ream Extreme and Clean Ream Plus hub savers have a body shape to keep you from drilling too deep. We try to make jobs easier!
Do not do this as it will re-temper the hardness of the metal in the hole saw blades and also promote corrosion. This is so beyond stupid. Use metal pipe or metal pipe fittings instead of ruining the composition of your hole saws. Dumb to the second power
@ReedPipeTools I'm concerned about this, too. What about the body shape prevents the user from drilling too far and ruining the fitting? I've watched a lot of videos and looked at your bits on Amazon but cannot find this issue addressed anywhere. I'd imagine there are lots of us that are hesitant to pull the trigger because of this. Thank you.
If you're a plumber you've been in a jam like this b4..for the most part when i need to remove a fitting it's on a new work rough and the waste lines are filled on a water test..i just cut out and replace..but every so often you run into a situation where you dont want to open up walls so the more options you have the better!..it's always fun watching these videos. Even an old dog can learn a new trick sometimes.
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You've got great videos. I'm always learning new ways to do things.
Thank you so much Bobby, really appreciate it!!!
I've always used the heat gun trick. You need to keep a piece of clean pipe handy to shove into the fitting after removing the old fitting to get it back to shape. However, I like the old hole saw trick. It makes me think that someone could invent a tool like the hole saw that heats up--kind of like a soldering iron. You'd have a collection of "hole saws" that fit nicely into various pipes that would then heat up upon plugging in. Very cool.
Yeah that would be a nice idea, thanks !!!!!
Or you can buy a cheap hole saw set (Harbor Freight sells them for $10 USD) that you use specifically to heat up. Depending on how much you use it, that $10 could be a good investment
I use a heat gun and it does the job well,
I like the red reamer best, never would I set the pipe on fire. I've used the silver one called "Ram-Bit". Cutting the pipe in quarters I've done on steel and brass threaded pipe. It works great for broken off shower arms. Good video...😎👍
Yeah the ram bits work well too, thanks for the nice comment Clifton!
I've used a heat gun multiple times to loosen pvc, to get it out/off, the key is to keep moving the gun & then let it start to cool down!!! I've also done the cutting method!!! I dont like the cutting method though had the pvc break on me!!! The pvc cutters are really nice, I've used the cheaper style quite a bit, so far still holds up!!!
The last method is usually needed when fixing a toilet drain. Saves you from cutting lots of holes in wall/ceiling.
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From Lil Giant Thanks! Wow! Good to know, especially when parts/product not available-like in a crisis.
I really loved the second method. I'm amazed
Thank you! Cheers! Please share if you can, it really helps ;)
I agree! Thanks for the video!!!
these are very creative methods, this is the stuff plumbers would almost never share, before instructional videos became All The Rage!!
not a plumber, but as a homeowner DIY, I've always done my own plumbing, but I've always used copper pipe, which if need be the fittings of which are Easy to remove with no extra tools. And you can always clean and reuse them.
However, the house we have now they already had installed PVC piping... which I've always hated. This is worse because a lot of plumbing was not done right, and we had to fix and redo a lot of the plumbing work. With that said, I never knew a PVC fitting could be removed and/or saved. This is a GREAT Video! Only wish I had seen this years ago. As the techniques you showed can help a lot in some tough situations, especially like you showed about the short pipe. Or even if you just don't have another replacement fitting. Thanks for posting a very informative video!
Thank you so so much!!!
I have various sizes of old pipe and metal couplings all stacked together on a dowel in the back of my service truck I use for the old heat and twist method it's the best solution I have found also holds heat well doesn't ruin the hole saw the're expensive😁
I thought this was going to be one of those clickbait BS videos....boy, was I wrong. Great information and techniques and very well presented. The whole saw trick is the bomb.
Hehe, yeah, no clickbait on this channel, thank you so much Wayne, please share if ya can, helps a lot 🙏
Thanks Jay, love hearing that 🙏
Hole Saw
Sometimes you can just leave the existing pipe end as it is, and glue a new short length of a different size pipe or coupling inside the existing pipe end. If the new pipe or coupling is a little too large to fit into the the existing pipe end, you use can use a propane torch to first soften the new pipe/fitting.
Conversely, sometimes you can use a new pipe/fitting piece to go on to the outside of the existing pipe end, again using a propane torch to soften the new pipe/fitting piece so it will fit. (If the new pipe/fitting piece is a little too large, you can use 2 or 3 hose clamps to tighten it onto the existing pipe end.)
The above won't pass any kind of inspection, but on your own farm etc., so what?
Do not care what anyone says, this video was excellent. You are a gifted teacher sir
😊😊😊
Great videos and extremely helpful for us amateur plumbers
Glad to help Rob!
For the 2nd method you don't need to use a hole saw; you could instead use a steel pipe cut to the required length, or a steel coupling that is of the proper diameter.
Yep works just as good!
And as a bonus, you don't risk damaging the hole saw!
Best video I've seen on removing a pipe from a fitting, i would like to see a video of a fitting removed from a pipe
Thank you so much, don't forget to share :)
Insteaed of the hacksaw blade method, I have a Klein muli-master tool with a small blade. Used it many times, works like a charm! Typically on ABS fittings here in AZ.
Great tip!
OMG! I have to admit I was skeptical but I tried the heat method and it works like a dream. Didn’t even need to ruin a hole saw, heated a small piece if 3/8 iron pipe with a torch into 1/2 pvc and it peeled out easily as shown. After 30 years of working with occ snd being frustrated with situations like this Thank you!
Awesomeeee, glad it workeddd!!!
A "right angle drill" might do for those tight spaces...
😂😂 The last clip you played of the guy actually burning the pipe out of course they're drinking beer.
You wouldn't do that sober.
Boogie Boogs, I’ve been doing it that way for more than 35 years,
and I have never had a beer in my life, so how does that affect your calculations?
@@elonmask50 Hey Mr. Elon, Sounds like you have an exciting life!😂
@@elonmask50 It still stands as Boogie Boogs making a joke.
@@RErnie-gv1hv, then you could both do with some better jokes.
My father-in-law just used that method to get a piece of two-inch schedule 40 pipe out of a sediment filter that was a bit short. I was worried about damaging the filter housing and he came over and put some of the cement inside the pipe along where the glue is and set it on fire with his lighter. He waited about a minute and then pulled the pipe out with no damage to the filter or housing at all. I had already been playing with it for about 40 minutes and it was glued in so tight that I could not break out the pipe even after it was cut on the inside in 6 spots. He was a retired Seabee and he learned the trick from a plumber in the trades for years. He said he doesn't do it all the time but that the filter housing was much thicker and denser so it was less likely to be damaged by the heat and the pipe inside would melt and give much faster. It worked and most of the old glue came out with the pipe. When we reassembled everything, it doesn't leak at all.
I've used the heated hole saw method a lot, but more recently I use a heat gun instead. For 1-1/2 or 2 inch PVC, I heat up at least 1/2 of the diameter of the pipe/fitting for 2 minutes, and then use the pliers to twist it out. Actually just did that 2 days ago when I had to replumb a double sink vanity that failed inspection.
Nice, it's a great trick for when you're in a pinch you know...otherwise, replace the whole thing hehe, thanks Jorden!
Hey man just wanna say thanks cause the heated hole saw bit did the trick for me and saved me big time!
No problem 👍
Awww a sponsorship ☺️😭😍👏🏻 im so happy and proud! You deserve this ☺️☺️💙👏🏻👏🏻 good job !!
Thanks!
You forgot to mention that drinking 2 beers before lighting the pipe on fire is recommended. As evidenced by the the 2 open bottles in the video. Thanks for doing this video!!!!!
🤘🤘🤘
I think beer is required in order to get the tool to work properly. It's right in the instructions.
you just saved my gravy cpvc 3/4" T slow leak noticed long time ago. put off because so near elbows it would of unleashed a nightmare of repipe. found me a metal pipe nipple, heated with map torch. wow just wow. Thank You
Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!
Buy the less expensive silver boring bit. I've use them for years. I carry 1.5,2,3" Surely saves the day when remodeling
I thought they were chemically fused and couldn't be separated. Neat tips. 👍
Try it 😎
i'll try to remember the heated hole saw technique but i'll probably forget and use the australian professional plumber's method of setting glue or joint cleaning fluid alight in the hole. all australian plumbers use this method. the brand of glue used as shown is australian.
You mentioned using the special pipe boring tool (5.30) in an enclosed space being difficult, why don't you just add a hex drive extension bar.
Never seen such a cutter as this, what a brilliant idea. 👍👍
Thanks, ..... I hadn't even considered the possibility of being able to remove pvc pipe from a fitting. Good Video ..
🙏🙏🙏
I'm thinking a copper coupling instead of a hole saw would be better than messing up a good hole saw. Or use a worn out hole saw. 🤔👍
Anything that you can get hot enough that fits tightly in the hole 👌
another method is by using a soldering iron just insert a soldering iron without the soldering tip then when it heated use a long nose plies to pull out the pvc. easy....
Using the second method, is it good to do on flex pvc ?
Thanks