How To Remove PVC Pipe after it's Glued
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- Опубликовано: 19 апр 2019
- Ever wonder how to remove PVC pipe after glued? In this video, I'll show you a painless method to use and it doesn't involve inhaling those toxic fumes. You'll need a hacksaw blade, a hammer, a screwdriver, and if you wish a hairdryer. Removing PVC pipe after glued CAN be done without using a torch. Don't chance burning down your house and inhaling toxic fumes, stick around and learn!
Happy Plumbing!
Bob.
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The Chris Walken of plumbing! Thanks for this video
Dear Bob: you are my hero
great vid
thanks
I'm humbled, thank you! Most of the Trolls think I talk to much...LOL!
Thanks bud, you saved me a ton of hassle. Much appreciated.
First time watching; thank you very much! I appreciate your skills, patience showing how to for meatheads, and humor.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video! A little long, but it helped me out of a jam!
Another great Video Bob! There’s no doubt in my mind that you’re a nice guy and a respected plumber. Enjoy your weekend sir.
Thank you for watching, much appreciated! Regards, Bob.
Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated.
Always buy twice the amount of fittings one needs because we all make mistakes, in the end plumbing is about the right fitting and correct tool, buy plenty of fittings which will save a headache, injuries and a hell of alot of time. fwiw
Good video Bob!!
Thank you George! Regards, Bob.
Thank you for useful video.
This will work for me, I'm sure. Thanks for putting the video together. I have a snapped off pipe glued to a "T" coming out of a Block Wall. So, I got nowhere to go and nowhere to hide. I've got to take it out!
The hole saw method is my favorite. I use a hole saw, a small pair of vice grips, and a torch. You can get the price of pipe out with a screwdriver it’s so easy. Doing it this way you don’t have an open flame near the pipe. Not only do you not have to worry about setting something on fire, you don’t blacken the pipe.
Great Video I like simple solution's, hack saw and a little patience works for me. Last thing I need is more tools laying around that I might use once every two years. Heat and fumes no thanks breathed enough toxic crap in my early years.
I like the hacksaw and hammer with a chisel.
Thanks...great solution, I'm going to put it to practice
Thanks for the video. It worked great!
I know within an hour I screwed up and I used the large pipe wrench like you suggested. It came out. No cutting, no hearing, it was great! Thank you.
This was awesome. Can't wait to try it out. Got a 2 inch pipe inside a scupper needs replacin'. Don't want to mess up the scupper or it's water proofing. Thanks so much for the lessons bruv!
Did you ever try this?
Thank you for the tip.
Thanks Bob, you've rescued me. I'm having to replace a rusted out flange and wax ring on my 35 year old owner built (previous owner) house. The PVC fitting is a mess too and I'm installing an up-to-date waxless gasket and throat system that a fellow Navy vet and former plumber at my local Ace Hardware recommended. You've provided the last piece of the puzzle. Bravo Zulu!
Thank you so much! Bob
Great vid and well explained. Thank you
Very welcome! Bob
Thanks for showing this... I have one of those "service disconnect joints" or whatever you call them. The thing you can unscrew and take apart in case you need to remove some of the piping in an area and then just put it back.
Well I bought one sink and did it up the way I wanted then the wife wanted a different sink so I go the other sink and the holes didn't match up. Those couplings are expensive... it's not like they are just a few dollars and if it had been glued to a straight pipe it would have been fine but it was glued to an elbow that was glued to an elbow lol... so yeh not gonna work.
So this saved me some money.
Thanks!!!
Bob, thanks for the video. I would use the cuts and a sharp wood chisel with no heat. They have a tool, drill bit that will ream out the PVC. Purchased on Amazon and used with good results, after piece cut flush at hub.
Thanks for commenting William! Regards, Bob.
Thank you for teaching me something new (Greetings to you from Egypt)
Thank you for checking out the video! Greetings from N.Y.C. Regards, Bob.
just buy socket-savers (internal fitting cutter), no heat, faster and no chain breakage.
Thank you very much for this!
You're very welcome!
I usually use a heat gun on the inner pipe and twist the end with channel locks. I go slow and work my way around and the pipe comes out of the fitting. I haven't destroyed a fitting yet, but I'm sure at some point I will.
That torsion on the pipe breaks that bond if you're patient
Thanks
Thanks for checking out the video!
Hi again -I worked on another piece pvc fittings your way this time I used 2 s/drivers greater results hoping you can try it and let me know
your video helps
If I had it back in a wall I would tie a rope to the corner of a rag. Push the rag down the pipe and let the rope hang out. Do my work and any broken pieces that fall back into or down the pipe will get pulled out when finished
Great explanation, Two weeks ago I was on my personal kitchen project, 1989 home. Took out the complete kitchen without taking out walls. It was time to change the old design from a two basin sink to one large. The plumbing although done very well for the time was close fitting and had pipes going in two directions for the two sink drains. I wanted to bring this scenario down to a one pipe connection, less wasted space and it does include a disposal. I thought about this and started on the hacksaw method but after a short time I said to my self just cut the wall and get it done. I did and I was happy I did. In all my kitchen and bathroom modifications I have always added the female 1 1/2 threaded connector so if someone in the future would like to make changes they could do so with a normal threaded connection from the wall. Had I seen the heat method I might have tried it, but to be honest plastics degrade over time; PVC included. For me that day it was about 100% integrity and not having to go back in later on or for someone in the future for that matter. The patch work was a breeze with a product DAP FASTPATCH 30.
Thanks for commenting! I personally don't like the heat method, but based on the videos I see on youtube people are doing it. Regards, Bob.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos That's the bad thing about RUclips. People can post almost anything, including dangerous ideas. Like too much heat starting a fire that didn't happen in their video, but happened in a viewer's home by mistake. Thank you for your safer tips here.
Hey Bob, have you ever used either a pipe or fitting extenders. Theyre great in the pool plumbing repair world. I prefer the fitting extenders over the pipe extenders to not reduce inside diameter.
I have not, my world is under sinks for the most part but that sounds like a great solution!
Thank you for video really works
You are welcome
Hi Bob, I usually heat the pipe inside and out without cutting the slots, then use the needle nose to twist it out. The elbow becomes slightly deformed... then what I do is reheat it again and use a fresh piece of pipe to mould the shape back to the original till it cools.
Really quick method under 5mins.
Thanks for your videos thought, I learn a lot.
Nice, I may have to give that one a try! Regards, Bob.
Bob remember the old solder bushing where the waste arm of the p-trap was soldered to the brass solder bushing would try with a nipple extractor and if that didn’t work cut it just like the pvc but at 11 and 1 or 10 and position and use a cape chisel Reason cutting just those 2 areas in case you accidentally cut the threads on the cast iron or Durham drainage fittings less chance of leak
Thank you so much sir
All the best! You're welcome. Bob
I saw a plumber once took a torch and heated up both pipes and took a car exhaust pipe expander when the pipe was hot and he just cranked both until they were expanded large enough to fit the pipe he needed to fit inside.. said that since he expanded a double layered pvc pipe then it wont become brittle if just going up the next size.. if you heat it right then it looks like any other fitting..
Thank you sir, great video! I do building maintenance work and I always like to hear other tradesman ideas.
Thank You for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.
Generally it isn't worth the time and hassle for cheap fittings, but extremely useful for fittings going into concrete! Nothing worse than having to break concrete to access a PVC fitting in the ground.
That being in my personal experience fittings that are really old can sometimes be brittle. So it doesn't always go 100% according to plans.
No question about it!
My fitting cracked when I hit the flat screwdriver to separate the piece of broken pipe from the inside of the fitting. It was for 3" pipe. I only did 4 cuts though, and I suspect the cut didn't go deep enough (went back afterwards to continue the cuts and noticed it 'felt' different when the blade depth past the PVC pipe and started into the glue of the joint). I made the cuts with a hacksaw blade. I did not use any heat. I wish I made more cuts, did them deeper, and used heat.
Three inch pipe is heavy, you gotta get as close to the fitting as possible in order for it to be successful. I often remove broken PVC flanges from inside a piece of pipe. I literally score the inside of the pipe if I have to.
Thank you you saved me a lot of trouble
Glad to help! Regards, Bob.
For making those cuts, do you recommend orienting the hacksaw blade so it cuts on the pull stroke, or on the push stroke?
The pull stroke might be easier for you, but the push stroke is faster IMHO.
Hi Bob. Handy video. Could you explain how to remove a broken fitting but save the pipe it fitted over. Need to remove a cracked T connector from pool pipe. Not enough pipe left to cut it
Send me some detailed pic's - inforobertsessaplumbing.com.
Hello Bob, have you ever used the Reed Plastic Pipe Fitting Reamer?
I have not! They appear to be like great solutions for situations like this. Thankfully I don’t make these mistakes to often.Bob
I subscribed
Can you make a video make fitting the pvc without pvc cement
would the saw method be ok to do on my spa pump union? I would assume that was a drain pipe where there is no pressure, The spa pump is 5hp
I'll do anything to remove a piece that's compromised, just go easy with the cuts. Use a 24 TPI blade go nice and easy and I would go with the heat gun method to soften things up a bit and gently peel the pieces out.
Hi tried your stuff it works I didn't even cut too deep more of deep cut was inside more than the outside, thanks for thinking about us,keep up the good work, may you know Christ Jesus as your REDEEMER AMEN and continue to touch lives of others
Glad it helped
great video, just did this on a toilet and as soon as the screwdriver went in, each piece popped right out. Noheat.
Everyone has a video about removing pipe out of the fitting, what about removing a fitting off of pipe sticking out of the wall do you just make small cuts to the fitting?
You could make small cuts to the fitting and use a heat gun to pry off the pieces. If there is enough room and you can make good use of the heat gun with out damaging anything, the pieces should be relatively easy to remove.
What kind of metal was that pipe? As a pool guy I deal with a lot of fragile and dry rotted PVC. Heat is the most effective way of removing old pieces from each other. I would very much like to try that pipe method but I know galvanised steel isnt a good type of metal to heat up
That's 1 1/2" tubular brass that I typically use to connect kitchen sinks from the "P" trap to the sink strainer.
If it was not glued properly and leaks but glued to much yo pull apart..can i add more glue to it without removing it. Or would the heat gun work
I would try the heat gun method, just smearing some glue over it is going to be a temporary fix.
If the first 2 pieces popped out so easy,,,,why did you use heat to get the rest out ??
They don't all come out so easily, some need convincing!
If I had a piece like that sticking out of the wall I would put a coupling on it 😁
Certainly an option! Regards, Bob.
no heat- just cuts + slow tap it out
Bob, newbie DIYer here. Why do you need to cut the pipe at all? All my plumbing jobs seem like they are in cramped undersink situations (and my legs cramp like crazy). Delicately sawing cuts like that without damaging the pipe seems like a nightmare. Couldn't you (1) heat a wide strip of the pipe until flexible, (2) insert a screwdriver or awl to life away from the fitting, (3) cut the flexible lifted away section lengthwise, (4) grab one end with a needlenose and (5) heat and twist? Thanks for the videos, they help me a lot!
You know I hate to admit, I’m old school and for me making these small cuts is no big deal even in tight quarters. I actually will use my sawzall w/ a fine tooth metal blade in some tight situations. The heat gun works well, but I would try to cut the stub out flush with the fitting. Heat the least amount of surface area possible, pry it away from the fitting and then grab it with a pair of needle nose players.
My concern with heat is that it will distort the fitting a little.
Does this method word with any pvc glue? I’m using clear
Most of the glue joints I've removed were with purple primer and a clear medium weight p.v.c. glue.
Has anyone ever tried finger nail polish remover like they do on crazy glue
Dang. Watching this 5 hours too late. Just this morning I glued in a 1.5 inch to 1.5 inch trap adapter on the stub out for a sink drain. I thought I had grabbed a 1.5 to 1.25 adapter but someone at Home Depot must have re-shelved that 1.5 unit into the wrong box. I didn't notice till I had glued everything up and walkaway for several hours. Ended up finding a nut that fit on the 1.5 adapter but was for a 1.25 drain tubing but that seems like cheating.
Not cheating I use 1 1/2" X 1 / 1'4" trap nuts for basins all the time! Regards, Bob.
Everyone seems to do it that way nowadays. We use to use 1 1/4 traps on lavs and 1 1/2 on sinks but now we just use 1 1/2 traps and reduce at the tailpiece. The mistake you made is fine, it’s when it’s the other way around that screws things up. Last week, I bought an 1 1/2 and 2” over male adapters for the air gap on a 3” RPZ. It was 2” so I had the 1 1/2 leftover. I had it with the rest of the fittings and my apprentice glued it on thinking it was a trap adapter. The only difference is a trap adapter has a larger ID so you can fit the tubing in. Luckily we had enough pipe to cut it off and glueanother one on
You know there's a tool that attaches to a drill that will cut the pipe out, right? I have cut and chiseled out before, it works.
The Reed and Wheeler companies makes them, nice tools indeed. For the occasional screw ups I make didn't think they were worth the investment. Thanks for commenting! Regards, Bob.
I think I paid about 5 bucks for the tool .bought one in both inch and a half and 2 in. always good to have more tricks up your sleeve!
But if the pipe is in wall, how are you going to hold it steady with a vice?? 🤔 😂
Bingo! You're not!!
I can’t see inside my pipe to know where I’m cutting. It’s in a hole in the ground. I’ll need to buy a drilling tool to do it.
I did use the heat method but just used a hot gun the whole pipe became maluable but the darn glue held. The pvc piple were put together in the 90"s so maybe the glue was stronger. Still working on this, UGH !
21 minutes remove pipe from fitting.....
Why not use a internal PVC pipe cutter?
That video is in the works!
In this situation, I would think using a ram bit socket saver will be a lot easier and save a lot more time.
Probably would, but for my occasional screw up's, this gets the job done! Regards, Bob.
You are absolutely right Bob. Right on. No one is perfect. Awesome video by the way.
Or you could’ve just bought a coupler, and simply slip it on to the pipe. Then you end up with a fresh new fitting to slip in your new pipe.
Any time you need to make an alteration on PVC you just want to try and cut through a pipe with enough space on it so that you can leave some of it still sticking out of the fitting it was glued into (just like the piece used in this video’s demonstration, before it was cut) that way you can slip on a new fitting. In this case where it says in the video that the fitting might be inside of a wall. Well with some of the pipe still left sticking out of the fitting you could just use a coupling that you can buy at any warehouse. There’s many options to go with, it all depends on what you’re trying to do. But that’s still an easy fix without having to unglue the pipe from its fitting.
The only time you really need to unglue a piece of PVC pipe from a fitting is when and if you can’t find a fitting that you need, you don’t want to spend money on new fittings, or there’s nowhere you can make your cut to be able to slip on a new fitting that won’t end up just costing more and having to do more work. Also if you just happen to have a fitting with a piece of pipe already glued in it but not enough of it sticking out to be able to slip it into another fitting (like in this video after cutting the pipe to where it’s flush with the fitting) and you would like to salvage the fitting to reuse it on a future project. In that case your only option would be to try and pry that puppy out somehow.
Cool demonstration on ungluing PVC, but pointless applications for where and when it should be done. Some people now knowing this might try to unglue PVC pipe when all they needed was probably just a simple little coupling. But they didn’t know about couplings. That should’ve been in the video. Just a quick explanation for when you don’t have to unglue the pipe from the fitting. But in any other instances where a simple fitting won’t work, or you don’t want to spend more money buying new fittings then ungluing might be something you want to do.
Useful. Re the use of the heat gun, without due care, it seems one could distort the shape of the outer fitting also by too much heating and prying. (ahh, I see Doxx below has a method for dealing with that.)
I'm also wondering if there are solvents that can loosen such a glued joint - maybe with a bit of time to work.
If it's more than 15/30 minutes, you're going to have to heat it up to get it out. A good hair dryer on high or the heat gun with some care and I think you'd be good to go. I'm not aware of any solvents that would penetrate the joint without affecting the fitting and pipe.
A BIG screw-up is leaving the bar code sticker in the glue area of the fitting. !!!!!
it's a demo lmao.
LOL ... love the fact that some box store worker put a bar code INSIDE a fitting.
Why don't you just use a socket saver very simple very cheap an most important it's very affected I'm a plumber in jersey I go to alot of Amazon's and do work I use all the time there real shotty work was done at these places and it has worked everytime and I use the cheap ones from depot and they work fine
Wouldn't this weaker the pipe?
Possibly but I've personally never had an issue with this technique. Just my experience.
The pipe is destroyed.
God made pvc to occupy time spent "in fixing". In writing, "a thousand years is like one day".
This old guy is high
It's the glue and primer 😂
I appreciate the information, but alittle slow moving, sorry.
I get it, but some people need baby steps! Thanks for checking it out!
Also a total waste of time to save $.39 elbow.
Why in gods name would you ever wanna go through all of that to save a $.39 elbow? The job I'm doing, I want to destroy the fitting but save the pipe.
For a few dollars. Buy a new joint.
That fitting is under a buck.
Zero content before the 1 minute mark... then you spent 6 minutes talking about a method you don’t recommend? Waste of time. This dragged out 21 minutes could’ve been condensed into about 5 tops... we don’t need to hear your each and every stream-of-consciousness thought. You seem nice / knowledgeable but you gotta learn to be quick and to the point with how-to videos.
Why an earth are Americans using inches and not mm to measuring something small like a pipe? Lol
Good Question 👍
Who gives a fuck?
You talk to much :( sorry I like it going straight to the “how to” instead of all comments about what other people might do
fast forward?
This vid is ridiculously long. Tighten up your presentation skills. Five minutes max is how you should've presented all the necessary useful information.
I was really hoping you were going to say “just use heat” or whatever the answer is.
This guy‘s not here for you! Did you get that yet? Don’t be a dick to somebody who took the time to put a video online whether you liked it or not.
bro ridiculously long fr what reason? good lawd
WHAT ALOT OF RUBBISH ! ALL THAT TIME WASTING TO SAVE A PENNY !!!!
You take to long for this...
Then go watch another channel genius!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I did ,,, jajajaja
Honestly, could have been a five minute video instead of over 20. You know no one is sitting through the whole 20 minutes...
Apparently you're a genius! Congratulations🎉. Most D.I.Y. enthusiast need a little more guidance.
NICE FAKE VIDEO BRO NEXT TIME TRY A PIECE THAT IS GLUED. YOU HAD NOTHING BUT A SMALL DAB OF GLUE ON THAT PIECE ALL THE REST IS THE PURPLE CLEANER COME ON NOW
BULLSHIT!