Видео

Nicely done sir

Thank you Tracy for the Awesome video. I purchased a PC 4212 jig and I'm ready to try it. Mine has the 1/2" shaft bits. My router's have a 1/4" collet. Any recommendations. New bigger router or 1/4" bits if available ? Thank you

I wonder if you got the snipe because you didn’t have tables

Outstanding!!!

Does anyone have any advice on how to prevent this issue from recurring?

I like the seats on this one. I've watched a few different videos, and I'm going to pick this one.

Exactly. They want you to wipe it off and throw products in the garbage. Which does 2 thing. Makes it lighter if it's a lighter stain. And 2 makes you have to buy more stain. Do you ever have a problem with it being sticky and top coating right with the way you're doing it?

The sub bases are cheap you can find them online for less than 5$. I bought a couple for the plunge base so I could use my 1.5" flattening bit. Overall for the price it's a solid entry point into a router imo. Great review.

I have the jig that Chad makes and it works as designed on odd numbered pins , 3,5,7 etc as that leave an opening in the center of the board. Even numbered don’t have that open area to place the jig ? Did I miss something?? I don’t see how it would work on even numbered spaces ?

I just bought one of these with this problem for $150. I need to replace the sprocket but your tutorial made this a great deal for me. I would never have figured this out otherwise.

appreciate your video, but could you speak a little more clearly??

Nice job matey xden

Ive got a 735x and love it. I accidentally knocked my planer off a temp stand it was on that resulted in this very issue. I was ready to toss it then watched this and its back up and running. thanks!

This jig is a very simple method for one use of my Router. (The Router does have many other uses in the Workshop, I have found)! I will find this jig simple and easy to use, and much easier than using the Table saw for cutting Tenons. 🤠

Why do guys build clamp racks but not use clamps to assist in holding parts together during assembly? Hmmmmm? Ive watched a few rack builds and have begun wondering about that...

Good video but I wish you would have explained what busing you used as well as what bits. And if they came with the jig.

Thank you very much! I just had the same problem today. The interior was jam packed with shavings and the chains and sprockets were all gummed up. I vacuumed up all that I could but quickly discovered I was going to need to take it apart to get at everything. I got lucky and your video was the first that popped up on google. One question: you used a drill/driver to remove the black handles. Was that a hex (Allen) bit in the extender on the drill?

Thank you for taking the time to explain this so well. Tomorrow I will give this a try.

please america convert to millimeters

Nice Mr. Tracy

After a frustrating day of failed attempts in the garage, I came across your video, and everything finally clicked. Thank you for taking the time to explain the process so clearly-your calm and thoughtful way of instructing made all the difference. I truly appreciate it!

Love your vids Tracy. Got Chad's centering aid. I got a slightly different centering trick here..... ruclips.net/video/PNgSuw6proA/видео.htmlsi=z4sdsJSD_6rsQsJO

Tell Chad this is a great idea, and I would really like to have them.

I have had one of these for about 10 years. It was very accurate; in fact I used the five-cut method to adjust it and the result was the near and far ends of the fifth cut-off were identical to the ten thousands of an inch. I repeated the test two more times got the same result. I used this strictly for 90º since my miter saw or my Incra V27 were more convenient for other angles. Since then I sold the table saw before moving, and upgraded at the new place. It's now not as easy to calibrate because there is more slop in the far end of the miter bar, and the adjustment ring is tightened to the max. I inserted a 0.010" leaf from an old feeler gauge between bar and slot, and am holding it in place with tape. The only time I use it is to cut sheet goods that extend beyond the edge of the table. The most accurate miter gauge that I have is the V27 that I bought 12 years ago; using the five-cut method, it has an error rate of 0.00001" per inch. I don't remember what I paid for it, but it's currently available from Incra for $75; it doesn't come with a fence, but a good quality 3/4" plywood works just fine.

What I like most about your videos is that you double-down or triple-down in reinforcing the most important bits and pieces of your instruction. Well done

Very nice

Beautiful doors.

Ok now make me one!

Looks like construction lumber. Isn't shrinkage and warpage going to be a problem?

Very nice!

Thank you

Great tutorial video. My PC jig has the same issue with the both offsets. The issue here that the offset part stamped incorrectly and does not have true 1/2 offset between vertical and horizontal edges. I was trying to order replacement parts and they all have similar issue.

"Build your own barn door" proceeds to use equipment 99% of people won't ever own. Idiot.

Thanks man!

Do you have a CAD file for what you designed?

if the half blind is to tight how do you loosen the joint

Nice video. I’m looking to build a half height door to cover access to a crawl space. Opening is 5 ft wide and 4 ft high. The door must travel to the left so I’m planning to make one door. I believe your design will work. What do you think about using pocket screws as the backside will not be visible? Any suggestions?

Incra is has a good name, I'm considering buying the 1000 HD miter gauge😢 and the things you point out make it look like something I might make up myself in my shop! There's nothing streamlined at all about it! Don't be surprised if Harvey or another company eats your lunch incra! Thanks for the video .

Tracy, have you considered making one of your centering templates fore a l Leigh” supper jig ? I have one as well as a Porter Cable. The same principle applies . I’ll take the first one you make ?

Very good explanation. Thank you!

Well done, I just purchased a 4216 and this will help alot!

I appreciate that you actually mentioned the species of wood. Most folks just say hardwood & softwood. It’s good education with repetition for newer wood workers like me b

Since the width of boards are standard why not etch both board edges into the template? then just line it up.

Holy cow! I’ve been looking for a solution to why mine suddenly became hard to crank. Some guy on a forum mentioned that sometimes they jump the sprocket. Your explanation and demo is just what I need! This is probably my problem. Thank you so much!

This is exactly what I’m trying to figure out. Just noticed it yesterday, same side and everything

One of the better explanations on RUclips. Thanks!

Thanks, have 1 in the box, been sitting on a shelf for years as there were no instructions with it. Now I know, and looks very handy

Did you consider a large overhang, before the drain idea? Thanks for the video!

Hi there, watched your video after many mistakes 😅. Definitely did not use your method or in fact the propwr method to stain. So here i am 😂 i stained something darker - I think is was maybe Mahogany but it was faded so I was attempting to make it Ebony. I didnt sand it or anything. I was td it was basically unnecessary - so the stain clearly didnt spread eventually throughout and pooled in some areas, its a bit thicker (like paint) 😮😢😅😳 definitely not my intention. So not thin at all basically nowhere 😊. Do you have any advice for someone like me who has found themselves in this situation? I know its fixable but how far back do i got to go?😂 I want to make sure I don't make this mistake again in the future. 😊 Thank you soooo much for everything. Greatly Appreciate Your Content.

So I took the same steps using the exact same products as you except my color was Mocha. After sanding with 120 and wiping off all dust I followed it with a couple of passes with the vacuum then proceeded with pre-stain wood condition from Minwax. The stain is same brand. 1- I used a staining brush removing the excess like you did. 2- I let it dry 24 hrs and the next day it was sticky. I don’t have AC in garage so I use a large commercial fan. The weather is warm and it has been rainy on and off. I’m wondering if the humidity may have affected it. My question to you is if after several days the stickiness doesn’t go away is there a way to correct the stickiness? I’ve stained plenty of furniture before and this is the first time experiencing this. Btw the unit was made of pine 2x4’s. Thank you for sharing.