What I like most about your videos is that you double-down or triple-down in reinforcing the most important bits and pieces of your instruction. Well done
Some advice if you’re not familiar with this jig , watch all of this guys Video on this jig then do a simple “through dove tail “ joint . Do this multiple times then come back and watch the videos again and again. Continue to rest this multiple times until you get the “hang of it” as some would say. Don’t expect perfection the first time. Even though I’ve become proficient with it I still 18:00 come back and view all these videos every now and then. Each time you will find another little “gem” you over looked .
Tracy, I tried using your method of lining the right side of my work piece with the right side of the PC jig, and my box joints were perfect the first time out of the chute. Thanks for the great info.
This is the only video I've found that shows how to reset the depth gauge. Aside from that this was very easy to follow, and the tangents were even informative from an experience stand point. Great work. I'll be watching it again when I'm down there with the jig scratching my head trying to set it up when I build my kitchen drawers.
Thanks Michael. I also have a Playlist of other techniques and joints using this jig if your interested. Thanks for stopping by my channel and leaving me a comment
well i got the jig set up (only had it for a few days). planed the wood. i dont thinik i have the wood setup right. i didnt have enough time to go back to your video it was time to go to work. i'm maintanance at GE. so i'll have to get back with you. thanks for checking on me
Tracy - well done. Simple, straightforward and complete. Extra points for the safety gear, and double extra points for the gun safe. Wish all gun owners were as responsible as you are.
Thanks Charlie. Actually that safe don't have anything it except flammables. The real safe is in another location. Thanks for those kind words. I have a Playlist for this jig if you are interested in checking it out
yes, yes and yes. I tried to make some dovetails and they didn't line up like they do when I use a table saw jig for my box joints. Good video. I will be giving it a try in the next few weeks.
Thank you for making this process easy to understand - much better than the OEM instructions. At this point we’re only making box joints for humidors and jewelry boxes but we’ll check back in once we move on to dive tails.
Tried your method; worked the first time, resulting in a perfect box joint. Could not be happier. I think the key was lining up the outside edge of the board to the outside of the tooth on the template. I held a 1/4" spacer between the black sliding piece on the jig and installed the second board. Perfect! I Couldn't believe it was so easy. New subscriber here. You are very much appreciated.
I think the hard part now is figuring out how to glue the joint up without making a mess. I hate squeeze out, but it might be unavoidable. @@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679
Your videos are really good. You apologized for "rambling," but it helps a lot to understand this process when you "think out loud" during these. Much better than the videos in which everything works perfectly to plan. Your videos help us around the pitfalls before we encounter them. Just the simple step of pulling the template toward you before raising it (to avoid inadvertently turning the brass knobs) is a great process tip. Thanks so much!!
Tracy, I spent part of my day messing with my PC jig trying to perfect tight clean Box joints. Using your method the “mini” sized are perfect but the large I’m still not happy with. They would work but require more clamping than I think they should. I have ordered a Leigh adjustable bushing in hopes of correcting the large one. Will keep you posted after I receive it and test it. Mikey
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 The thriving metropolis of Sharpsburg, GA., about 30 miles south of Atlanta. Thanks again for your video - very informative- very refreshing to see someone sharing information in such a honest and practical way!
Thank you for those kind words Danny. If your ever going to be up this way give me a shout and we will try to meet up. May shoot a video if you want. I'm am 3 or 3 1/2 hrs from you
As I am a newby to dovetail and box joints, I would like you to know that I have followed your instructions and have been able to make a decent dovetail box. It is my first successful assembly. I tried to follow Porter Cable's directions and messed up too many times. I think I did the same thing with the manual that you did. Thank you for you clear and concise instruction. With amore practice I know I will be making joints as well as yours.
I have videos showing how to make dovetail joints as well. I have a whole Playlist on my channel. Check those out and I'm sure you will be able to make them too
Great vid ! Although I've been cutting the 1/4" dovetails primarily, I've been wanting to cut the box joints. I thought I'd have to succumb to cutting them w/ the table saw...now I can them since watching your presentation~
Follow Up: This is for others like me, beginner woodworker....RE: Box joints - I found that using Tracey's method of cutting these joints, i.e., the first cut (flush fit up against the stop on the jig) that I'll rotate that first piece CCW and make the cut. Then I'll fit the next piece w/ the 1/4" offset. Ditto, like the first cut (I'll make my cut, then rotate it CCW and cut).Much like I do w/ the dovetail cuts...I'll cut the last two pieces w/ the offset - of course, considering the mark on the mini jig, the pieces are coming out great, good fits and much less time than the dovetails.
Thanks for the video. I just got this jig and trying to figure out how to use it. I’ve cut box joints on my table saw in a jig I made and it can be adjusted if the joints are too tight or loose. I’m not sure how these could be adjusted if necessary. I’m going to give it a shot and see. I like your tip on the spacer. Thanks.
@LivingTheLifeRetired Thank you. I have several videos on this jig. There is a Playlist on my channel for through dovetails, halfblind, etc. If you wish to check them out
Pura vida mi hermano great video as always you know how to do it .your videos review about that dovetail jig models is amazing and one of the best I watched on you tube .thanks again keep going with your woodworking projects.pura vida
Thanks for a really great video. So much more accessible than the manual. One thing the manual does say about box/finger joints is that you should use the opposite end of the jig for cutting your second piece. You use the first piece you cut as the guide for setting up the end stop at the right-hand side. I think this would mean that you could batch out both ends of the joint without changing your set-up once you have it dialled in? Any reason why you don't use this approach? I've had the jig for about 3 years and haven't dedicated the time to making it work yet, so your video has given me the motivation to go and give it another try. Thanks again.
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 fair enough. Why change something that works. Yes, I've seen your other videos on the jig. Great content and saved to my favourites!
This is a very well-done, useful presentation on the cutting of box joints with the PC Jig. I will be certain to review your other videos on this jig. I have bought it and am anxious to get started using it. Is there a way to adjust the finger's dimensions relative to the openings? Some authors like the fingers to be slightly smaller that the openings so the joint fits together more easily. William Ng recommends that the fingers be .006-inch smaller than the openings. Just a thought. Thanks again!
Thank you. I don't think there is a way when using this jig. They fit together very well though. To get fingers smaller than a 1/4 inch you will probably have to make then on a tablesaw. But for 1/4 or 1/2 inch fingers you can knock them out all day on the PC jig very fast and accurate.
Thank you so much Tracy for making this video, I do appreciate these tips to get this Jig a 2nd spin. The alignment tips & clamping tips in this video are fantastic. I really liked your previous video on this Jig and nice to see your support with this.
Thank you Tracy for the Awesome video. I purchased a PC 4212 jig and I'm ready to try it. Mine has the 1/2" shaft bits. My router's have a 1/4" collet. Any recommendations. New bigger router or 1/4" bits if available ? Thank you
@roberttravalent7782 Thanks Robert. If your budget allows for it, I would recommend a router with a half inch and quarter inch collets. Half inch bits do not have the flex as the 1/4 inch do. Especially when you are using longer bits. They also tolerate heat a little better and retain their sharpness longer. They will still build up heat but it's not as bad. I have 1/2 and 1/4 inch collets for most of my routers and it's nice having those options when you have a certain bit and you need a router it will fit
Hello Tracey. I have a question about the lumber you have used to make box joints with this jig. IN the demo video, it looks like you're using pine. Today, I set everything up with a brand new, high-quality 1/4" straight bit in my router. I decided to use really crappy lumber, so I chose some 1/2-inch birch plywood from The Home Depot. Perhaps not surprisingly, the router tore the dickens out of the near side of the wood. The back, which was backed up with material, looked pretty good. When I used my table saw box joint jig with better quality plywood (1/2-inch Baltic Birch plywood) I had to back up each cut with an uncut piece of 1/8-inch masonite or the surfaces of the plywood were torn up badly. I am assuming that if I out some masonite between the router bit and the plywood, I could probably get clean joints. SO I have a few questions. Have you ever used plywood successfully making box joints? Have you used solid wood in all occasions? Are there woods that are better or worse when making box joints, ones that tend to come out clean or ragged? Thank you sir! George
Hello George. I have not yet used plywood with the PC jig to make box joints. I have used plywood for box joints on the tablesaw. Anyway you can back it up with a sacrifice piece of material will help. It may not always be 100% perfect but it will help. I have made dovetails in plywood with the PC jig and they came out fine. Not perfect but perfect enough. A good sharp bit and a backer always improves the quality of any joint. Solid wood such as hardwood or even pine will still blow out some if it's not backed up with a sacrifice piece or using a dull bit. Another contributing factor is not setting the router speed to the rpm needed for the big size. A lot of that cheap plywood that home depot or lowes has is hard to get good precision cuts anyway. I would suggest trying some different material types and do some practicing and see what works best for the task you are doing. Hope this helps.
hey what is the cutting diameter of the straight router bit you're using? I'm using the "smaller" straight bit given from the 4216 porter cable set but it doesn't seem to be the right size? aka the finger joints cut out by the straight bit are too large to be joined with the other board (also cut with the straight bit)
Tracy, regular viewer here. If you had it to da all over would you buy a Leigh dove tail gig instead of the Porter Cable jig or not. I have one like yours and am happy except it looks like the Leigh is more versatile in that you have infinite patterns of dove tails and box joints plus it’s easier to deal with different width material. Your opinion please. Mike
Hello Mikey. First, let me say thank you for being a regular viewer. I am myself satisfied with the Porter Cable jig. For the purpose I needed it for was through dovetails and halfblinds. It's quick and easy to set up. I looked at the leigh and several others, and like most, I watched a lot of youtube videos on them. I settled on the Porter Cable mainly because the templates are fixed. There weren't any moving parts to them as individual pieces and the price was good. I build custom furniture for customers and speed was what I needed when it comes to making drawers. So the Porter Cable jig was a hit for me. I didn't need a wider dovetail here and a narrow one there in the same piece and I didn't want to have to adjust each and every time. With the Porter Cable I can put my stock in it and start cutting my joints. So over all the Porter Cable has worked out well for me. If there is ever a certain pattern I need and I can't get it with the Porter Cable, I will just cut it by hand. Which is very rare any way. I use to cut them by hand and now that never happens. So I am satisfied with the PC jig. Knowing what I know about it now, I would buy the PC again. But to each his own. If you want the versatility that another jig offers and budget is not an issue, by all means get what you want. I myself am satisfied with the PC. Hope this makes sense. I just woke up lol
Just get it as close to even as possible. As long as you are not tweaking it too hard it will be fine. If you wanted to you can adjust it all the way to the jig without any work piece in it. Once you have it all the way to the jig you can start counting the turns of each side as you back it off. But I have never had a need to do that. As long as your not stressing the template too hard. You can also loosen one side up and tighten the other side and that should line the template straight with the jig. Then tighten the other side.
I am having a problem with the through piece on the box joint (1/2 inch) is coming out at about 3/4 inch and the two pieces obviously done mesh. So I have a 1/2 inch cut and a 3/4 inch through piece. What am I doing wrong. I am using a 3/4 inch template guide and a 1/2 inch straight bit. ???
I am replying to my Question above. I have been cutting box joints with a 1/2 inch bit and a 3/4 inch template guide. The groove I cut comes out to 1/2 inch wide but the through piece ends up being 3/4 inch because the edge of one groove is 3/4 inch to the next but the 1/2 inch groove will not allow the 3/4 inch through piece to mesh with it. It's like putting a square peg in a round hole. There has to be a 3/4 inch groove to allow the 3/4 inch through piece to go into it. Does that make sense. I am cutting up trees to figure this out.
@DaveMock-je2xd I am sorry but I still don't think I am completely understanding what you are experiencing. When you say "through piece", what are you calling the through piece?
To me, there is a lot of instructions left out, because only two sides are completed. Doing the entire box leaves room for many mistakes, and needs further steps.
What I like most about your videos is that you double-down or triple-down in reinforcing the most important bits and pieces of your instruction. Well done
@@edwardglynn9554 thank you
Some advice if you’re not familiar with this jig , watch all of this guys Video on this jig then do a simple “through dove tail “ joint . Do this multiple times then come back and watch the videos again and again. Continue to rest this multiple times until you get the “hang of it” as some would say.
Don’t expect perfection the first time. Even though I’ve become proficient with it I still 18:00 come back and view all these videos every now and then. Each time you will find another little “gem” you over looked .
Clear, detailed with no BS. Many thanks.
Thanks Kurt. I have more videos on this jig if you care to check those out
Tracy, I tried using your method of lining the right side of my work piece with the right side of the PC jig, and my box joints were perfect the first time out of the chute. Thanks for the great info.
Glad to hear of your success Harold
This is the only video I've found that shows how to reset the depth gauge. Aside from that this was very easy to follow, and the tangents were even informative from an experience stand point. Great work. I'll be watching it again when I'm down there with the jig scratching my head trying to set it up when I build my kitchen drawers.
Thanks Michael. I also have a Playlist of other techniques and joints using this jig if your interested. Thanks for stopping by my channel and leaving me a comment
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 Oh, I'm subscribed too. I'll be checking them all out.
I appreciate you taking the time and making the video im headed to the garage and giving it a try!
How did it go?
well i got the jig set up (only had it for a few days). planed the wood. i dont thinik i have the wood setup right. i didnt have enough time to go back to your video it was time to go to work. i'm maintanance at GE. so i'll have to get back with you. thanks for checking on me
Tracy - well done. Simple, straightforward and complete. Extra points for the safety gear, and double extra points for the gun safe. Wish all gun owners were as responsible as you are.
Thanks Charlie. Actually that safe don't have anything it except flammables. The real safe is in another location. Thanks for those kind words. I have a Playlist for this jig if you are interested in checking it out
Great instructional video. Particularly liked the use of an offset for the second board cuts. I made 1/2 box joints. Turned out great. Thank you!!
Thanks John. Glad it was useful. I also have videos on making dovetails if your interested. There is a whole playlist
yes, yes and yes. I tried to make some dovetails and they didn't line up like they do when I use a table saw jig for my box joints. Good video. I will be giving it a try in the next few weeks.
Thank you for making this process easy to understand - much better than the OEM instructions. At this point we’re only making box joints for humidors and jewelry boxes but we’ll check back in once we move on to dive tails.
Thank you. I have videos on dovetails too. Have a Playlist on them
Tried your method; worked the first time, resulting in a perfect box joint. Could not be happier. I think the key was lining up the outside edge of the board to the outside of the tooth on the template. I held a 1/4" spacer between the black sliding piece on the jig and installed the second board. Perfect! I Couldn't believe it was so easy. New subscriber here. You are very much appreciated.
That's great man. Glad to hear of your success. Thanks for subscribing.
I think the hard part now is figuring out how to glue the joint up without making a mess. I hate squeeze out, but it might be unavoidable. @@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679
Outstanding Job! Thanks for sharing
Thank you
Your videos are really good. You apologized for "rambling," but it helps a lot to understand this process when you "think out loud" during these. Much better than the videos in which everything works perfectly to plan. Your videos help us around the pitfalls before we encounter them. Just the simple step of pulling the template toward you before raising it (to avoid inadvertently turning the brass knobs) is a great process tip. Thanks so much!!
Thank you for those kind words. That's means a lot
Great video! This really explains the process well👍🏻You we’re able to clearly explain a rather involved process.
Thank you. Be sure to check out the Playlist on the Porter Cable dovetail jig.
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 Roger that!
Tracy, I spent part of my day messing with my PC jig trying to perfect tight clean Box joints. Using your method the “mini” sized are perfect but the large I’m still not happy with. They would work but require more clamping than I think they should. I have ordered a Leigh adjustable bushing in hopes of correcting the large one. Will keep you posted after I receive it and test it. Mikey
I hope that corrects your issue.
Great video - wish we were neighbors!!!
Thank you. Where are you from?
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 The thriving metropolis of Sharpsburg, GA., about 30 miles south of Atlanta. Thanks again for your video - very informative- very refreshing to see someone sharing information in such a honest and practical way!
Thank you for those kind words Danny. If your ever going to be up this way give me a shout and we will try to meet up. May shoot a video if you want. I'm am 3 or 3 1/2 hrs from you
I just ordered this exact jig. Thanks for the video
I have a Playlist for this jig if your interested
Definitely
As I am a newby to dovetail and box joints, I would like you to know that I have followed your instructions and have been able to make a decent dovetail box. It is my first successful assembly. I tried to follow Porter Cable's directions and messed up too many times. I think I did the same thing with the manual that you did. Thank you for you clear and concise instruction. With amore practice I know I will be making joints as well as yours.
I have videos showing how to make dovetail joints as well. I have a whole Playlist on my channel. Check those out and I'm sure you will be able to make them too
Great vid ! Although I've been cutting the 1/4" dovetails primarily, I've been wanting to cut the box joints. I thought I'd have to succumb to cutting them w/ the table saw...now I can them since watching your presentation~
Follow Up: This is for others like me, beginner woodworker....RE: Box joints - I found that using Tracey's method of cutting these joints, i.e., the first cut (flush fit up against the stop on the jig) that I'll rotate that first piece CCW and make the cut. Then I'll fit the next piece w/ the 1/4" offset. Ditto, like the first cut (I'll make my cut, then rotate it CCW and cut).Much like I do w/ the dovetail cuts...I'll cut the last two pieces w/ the offset - of course, considering the mark on the mini jig, the pieces are coming out great, good fits and much less time than the dovetails.
@buddydog1956 I'm glad the video was helpful and you are having success. That's my goal
Thank you man, I having the time of my life....thanks to you!!!@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679
I love hearing. Makes my day! Makes what I do worth doing. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I just got this jig and trying to figure out how to use it. I’ve cut box joints on my table saw in a jig I made and it can be adjusted if the joints are too tight or loose. I’m not sure how these could be adjusted if necessary. I’m going to give it a shot and see. I like your tip on the spacer. Thanks.
@LivingTheLifeRetired Thank you. I have several videos on this jig. There is a Playlist on my channel for through dovetails, halfblind, etc. If you wish to check them out
Pura vida mi hermano great video as always you know how to do it .your videos review about that dovetail jig models is amazing and one of the best I watched on you tube .thanks again keep going with your woodworking projects.pura vida
Thank you
Thanks for a really great video. So much more accessible than the manual. One thing the manual does say about box/finger joints is that you should use the opposite end of the jig for cutting your second piece. You use the first piece you cut as the guide for setting up the end stop at the right-hand side. I think this would mean that you could batch out both ends of the joint without changing your set-up once you have it dialled in? Any reason why you don't use this approach? I've had the jig for about 3 years and haven't dedicated the time to making it work yet, so your video has given me the motivation to go and give it another try. Thanks again.
Thank you. I just do it the way I did because that is what works for me. I have a Playlist on this jig if you are interested
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 fair enough. Why change something that works. Yes, I've seen your other videos on the jig. Great content and saved to my favourites!
This is a very well-done, useful presentation on the cutting of box joints with the PC Jig. I will be certain to review your other videos on this jig. I have bought it and am anxious to get started using it. Is there a way to adjust the finger's dimensions relative to the openings? Some authors like the fingers to be slightly smaller that the openings so the joint fits together more easily. William Ng recommends that the fingers be .006-inch smaller than the openings. Just a thought. Thanks again!
Thank you. I don't think there is a way when using this jig. They fit together very well though. To get fingers smaller than a 1/4 inch you will probably have to make then on a tablesaw. But for 1/4 or 1/2 inch fingers you can knock them out all day on the PC jig very fast and accurate.
Thank you so much Tracy for making this video, I do appreciate these tips to get this Jig a 2nd spin. The alignment tips & clamping tips in this video are fantastic. I really liked your previous video on this Jig and nice to see your support with this.
Thank you so much. It means a lot
Thank you Tracy for the Awesome video. I purchased a PC 4212 jig and I'm ready to try it. Mine has the 1/2" shaft bits. My router's have a 1/4" collet. Any recommendations.
New bigger router or 1/4" bits if available ? Thank you
@roberttravalent7782 Thanks Robert. If your budget allows for it, I would recommend a router with a half inch and quarter inch collets. Half inch bits do not have the flex as the 1/4 inch do. Especially when you are using longer bits. They also tolerate heat a little better and retain their sharpness longer. They will still build up heat but it's not as bad. I have 1/2 and 1/4 inch collets for most of my routers and it's nice having those options when you have a certain bit and you need a router it will fit
Thanks!
You are welcome Robert
Hello Tracey. I have a question about the lumber you have used to make box joints with this jig. IN the demo video, it looks like you're using pine.
Today, I set everything up with a brand new, high-quality 1/4" straight bit in my router. I decided to use really crappy lumber, so I chose some 1/2-inch birch plywood from The Home Depot. Perhaps not surprisingly, the router tore the dickens out of the near side of the wood. The back, which was backed up with material, looked pretty good.
When I used my table saw box joint jig with better quality plywood (1/2-inch Baltic Birch plywood) I had to back up each cut with an uncut piece of 1/8-inch masonite or the surfaces of the plywood were torn up badly.
I am assuming that if I out some masonite between the router bit and the plywood, I could probably get clean joints. SO I have a few questions.
Have you ever used plywood successfully making box joints?
Have you used solid wood in all occasions?
Are there woods that are better or worse when making box joints, ones that tend to come out clean or ragged?
Thank you sir!
George
Hello George. I have not yet used plywood with the PC jig to make box joints. I have used plywood for box joints on the tablesaw. Anyway you can back it up with a sacrifice piece of material will help. It may not always be 100% perfect but it will help. I have made dovetails in plywood with the PC jig and they came out fine. Not perfect but perfect enough. A good sharp bit and a backer always improves the quality of any joint. Solid wood such as hardwood or even pine will still blow out some if it's not backed up with a sacrifice piece or using a dull bit. Another contributing factor is not setting the router speed to the rpm needed for the big size. A lot of that cheap plywood that home depot or lowes has is hard to get good precision cuts anyway. I would suggest trying some different material types and do some practicing and see what works best for the task you are doing. Hope this helps.
hey what is the cutting diameter of the straight router bit you're using? I'm using the "smaller" straight bit given from the 4216 porter cable set but it doesn't seem to be the right size? aka the finger joints cut out by the straight bit are too large to be joined with the other board (also cut with the straight bit)
Use a 1/4 straight bit. I explained the bits in the video
Tracy, regular viewer here. If you had it to da all over would you buy a Leigh dove tail gig instead of the Porter Cable jig or not. I have one like yours and am happy except it looks like the Leigh is more versatile in that you have infinite patterns of dove tails and box joints plus it’s easier to deal with different width material. Your opinion please. Mike
Hello Mikey. First, let me say thank you for being a regular viewer. I am myself satisfied with the Porter Cable jig. For the purpose I needed it for was through dovetails and halfblinds. It's quick and easy to set up. I looked at the leigh and several others, and like most, I watched a lot of youtube videos on them. I settled on the Porter Cable mainly because the templates are fixed. There weren't any moving parts to them as individual pieces and the price was good. I build custom furniture for customers and speed was what I needed when it comes to making drawers. So the Porter Cable jig was a hit for me. I didn't need a wider dovetail here and a narrow one there in the same piece and I didn't want to have to adjust each and every time. With the Porter Cable I can put my stock in it and start cutting my joints. So over all the Porter Cable has worked out well for me. If there is ever a certain pattern I need and I can't get it with the Porter Cable, I will just cut it by hand. Which is very rare any way. I use to cut them by hand and now that never happens. So I am satisfied with the PC jig. Knowing what I know about it now, I would buy the PC again. But to each his own. If you want the versatility that another jig offers and budget is not an issue, by all means get what you want. I myself am satisfied with the PC. Hope this makes sense. I just woke up lol
How do you make sure the brass bushings are screwed out evenly, the same distance out from the jig so the template isn’t at an angle?
Just get it as close to even as possible. As long as you are not tweaking it too hard it will be fine. If you wanted to you can adjust it all the way to the jig without any work piece in it. Once you have it all the way to the jig you can start counting the turns of each side as you back it off. But I have never had a need to do that. As long as your not stressing the template too hard. You can also loosen one side up and tighten the other side and that should line the template straight with the jig. Then tighten the other side.
I am having a problem with the through piece on the box joint (1/2 inch) is coming out at about 3/4 inch and the two pieces obviously done mesh. So I have a 1/2 inch cut and a 3/4 inch through piece. What am I doing wrong. I am using a 3/4 inch template guide and a 1/2 inch straight bit. ???
@@DaveMock-je2xd I am not sure I am understanding your issue. Are you using 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch thick pieces?
I am replying to my Question above. I have been cutting box joints with a 1/2 inch bit and a 3/4 inch template guide. The groove I cut comes out to 1/2 inch wide but the through piece ends up being 3/4 inch because the edge of one groove is 3/4 inch to the next but the 1/2 inch groove will not allow the 3/4 inch through piece to mesh with it. It's like putting a square peg in a round hole. There has to be a 3/4 inch groove to allow the 3/4 inch through piece to go into it. Does that make sense. I am cutting up trees to figure this out.
@DaveMock-je2xd I am sorry but I still don't think I am completely understanding what you are experiencing. When you say "through piece", what are you calling the through piece?
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 I am using 3/4 inch board for all sides.
Some folks calls it a box joint. Some calls it a fanger joint. I call it a slingblade joint, mmm-hmm
That's a new one to me lol
To me, there is a lot of instructions left out, because only two sides are completed. Doing the entire box leaves room for many mistakes, and needs further steps.
You just do all 4 corners the same. Once you set the positive stop on the jig everything is referenced off it.