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@AngelNotLow they can move freely before the rocker assembly is bolted to the head. Once bolted down, the rocker arm sits between the valve and cam with the valve springs keeping the valves closed and rockers in place. The vtec arm are kept in place by the lost motion spings that sit above them.

Hi Tyrone, I run mine like this - battery +12v to relay input (30) - relay output (+12v) to vtec solenoid (87) - relay trigger to (key on) ignition +12v (86) - relay negative (85) to Dicktator output. this way the dicktator negative trigger the relay and send battery 12v to solenoid.

@@RisingBoostYTthanks

Yes correct, I recommend taping up the connectors in plastic, also having fender liners will prevent it getting wet

Hi, yes, all EK hatch models can fit the typeR kit, only difference is between facelife and pre-facelift. They have different front bumpers and take a different front lip

Minute 16:36 u make the connector to connect to the meter? I confuse that

Hi bro, in the car, Red and Yellow connect to 12v +. Black connects to 12v negative. the green wire is the signal from the sensor

Hi, no so easy to find but try this on eBay - ebay.us/BV6rLh

Hi, use this link - www.nthefastlane.com/d-series-torque-specs

Hi, yes it can work on that motor. your motor has "coil on plug" so you need to look for your crank position sensor trigger wheel, count the teeth on the trigger wheel and buy the corresponding dicktator ecu. example: 60-2 trigger wheel / buy the dicktator 60-2. but it will need to be fitted and tuned by a professional as there is no "plug n play" options available.

Yes, internal gate. Works fine for low boost setups like mine. Simplify everything. But not so good for high boost setups.

Thanks!

Hi Allen, I mainly got the pulley because I swapped on a vtec head and sometimes it requires the adjustable pulley to get the marks to line up as per factory marks. cam advance or retard can move your powerband up or down a bit, helpful for turbo setup as you gain a bit of control over your power band. It is more helpful on DOHC motors as you can adjust valve overlap. I currently run +3 degrees to get my cam to factory 0 degrees. it is running 0.6 bar boost and made 139wkw. turbo is a T04E 50mm 0.50AR

Hi, sadly no. However, ivtec normally just means it is vtec and vtc combined, vtc is an adjustable cam gear controlled by the ecu and oil pressure. So the vtec system remain the same, some cars have vtec but it is an economy version of vtec that works slightly different. However the tech stay the same.

@@RisingBoostYT thank you for your response , i am about to changing the timing belt and clean the engine out of my honda and was just curious what i should look out for - hopefully i can get it running again (current status crank no start)

Hi John, the main reason I painted the head was because the previous owner sand blasted the surface making it rough, the problem with that is it gets dirty very easy and it's not easy to clean. the paint seals the surface and makes it easier to clean later.

Hi, it depends on the ignition system, if it has a dizzy, use STD dicktator, if it has a single coil with 4 outputs, use wasted spark dicktator, if its has coil on plug, look for your pickup wheel and buy the same ecu, example if you have a 60-2 pickup on the motor, buy a 60-2 Dicktator

Hi, at first no. the compression was 9.8-1 on this setup, after I added a thick head gasket making it 8.9-1. With the high compression and boost I had head gasket issues, lowering the comp mostly solved the issues.

definitely an upgrade yes, also safer, smaller chance of pulling threads out the block with studs.

Hi Luis, I have a walbro 255 pump, upgraded fuel rail and 440cc injectors. running a stand alone ECU for the motor, it's just a cheap basic locally made unit (Dicktator STD)

Hi bro, glad you found it helpful, good luck with the build!

Hi bro, honest answer is price, even though its not expensive in the USA, once shipping, taxes, duties and the exchange rate are added, keeping in mind that on average salaries is 5x lower in my country, it was just not worth it for the Dseries at the time.

good observation, at the time I did not have a power washer, but it would have been helpful.

Hi, honest answer is price, even though its not expensive in the USA, once shipping, taxes, duties and the exchange rate are added, keeping in mind on average the salaries is 5x lower in my country, it's just not worth it.

@@RisingBoostYT I get it. Government sucks. HAHAHA Love the channel, keep it coming. I am doing something like this to my D15b7 in my 93 Del Sol.

É verdade que eu não tinha dinheiro para isso na época, considerando os custos de envio para a África do Sul, mas talvez em breve

Hi Mike, at the time I was not able to find plastic gauge (2020), however since the motor was running fine before and all the components are the same (rods, block and crank) I replaced the bearings with the same size and brand bearings that came out, meaning the risk of it being wrong was low enough for me, and it worked out as the motor is still running.

Hi bro, yes most of it, check the description

Hi, no, it does not work on diesel

I'm glad you found it helpful

Hi, mostly yes. EG and EK have different head and intake gaskets, however they both work but get the correct one for your motor. D15 has different rod bearing to a D16. EK motors has a thin MLS headgasket and EG had a thick "paper style" gasket

Mine is a d16 y4 from New Zealand. Thank you sir I'll get a d16 rebuild kit thank you

I'm glad you found them useful, even if just for a laugh

The board I made was only for the engine harness as I am using an aftermarket standalone ECU. The fuse box, chassis, and dash harness are all still in place and functional.

Hi, these are copy studs without lube or instructions, Real ARP studs are as follow Step 1......15ft lbs Step 2......30ft lbs Step 3......62ft lbs For the copy studs I used motor oil and 56ft lbs final

@@RisingBoostYT what do you mean by final?

@joseperez-zo6fr final is step 3, so I don't torque them as high coz china

@@RisingBoostYT ok so 13 30 56?

Hi, yes you can. Make sure the source wire is not too thin, earth the gauges well, a good test will be to connect your voltage gauge at the battery directly, then at the "in car" location, make sure there is not a big voltage drop between the reading at the battery and the reading inside the car.

@@RisingBoostYT thank you i got it :)

Hi, I did 33 ft lbs (as per the nthefastlane dot com website)

Yes CSS is the best, I had a "press in" block guard, but it fit poorly so I did not use it. CSS not an option for me in my country.

Hi bro, check for a universal spring compressor tool. Getting the retainers out is easy, getting them back in is a bit more challenging, a spring compressor tool will help alot.

Hi bro, these seats are both exactly the same. They have the adjuster on both sides, there is no left or right seat like an OEM seat.

Hi, after looking at both a vtec and no vtec dyno graph, 3700rpm was the best place to engage vtec.

@@RisingBoostYT Thanks for your reply. I asked because I´m concerned about the oil pressure when it´s hot (oil about 100℃）and the VTEC kicks in. Even that Hondata says it´s ok to set the VTEC at 3000 rpm if supercharged, and Defi (japanese gauge brand, known as Nippon Seiki also) says that 29 psi at 4000 rpm is dangerous (speaking in general) knowing that D16 hasn´t such risk factor in normal condition, I´m still wondering if setting the VTEC to a lower RPM could be a good idea; just that. Escepticism lol.

Oil pressure depends a lot on the condition of your engine and oil pump, oil pressure lower as clearances increase. 29psi is fairly low for "performance use" of a motor. try a slightly thicker oil, I use "high mileage" oil and get around 40psi hot at low rpm, but it goes up with rpm. also make sure a 3000rpm vtec will give you more power, vtec so low you could actually lose power. in my case vtec makes less power below 3700rpm.

Hi, no specific follow up, but the loom video was next - ruclips.net/video/Wz1hbknFNRk/видео.html&lc=Ugy2Ma454kglTJZX5-t4AaABAg

Hi, the grill has attachment points at the back around the opening that can take a small self tapping screw

@@RisingBoostYT you're right thank you, I'm also trying to cut up the eBay grill but having a hard time not making a mess 🤣👍

Here is some tips, heat up the grill so it won't crack as easily, use a hair dryer or put it in hot water. Use a good side cutter to cut out the majority of the grill while its hot. use a sharp stanley knife to cut it close to the edge. (very dangerous, always cut away from yourself) last use a file to smooth out the edges. that's how i did it.

@@RisingBoostYT Really helpful I'll be trying this. Thanks!

Hi, it should still work fine, mine is not connected to any ECU, the signal wire from the sensor go directly to the sensor wire on the gauge. also very important is good wiring to the sensor and gauge. use a relay to trigger power to both sensor and gauge, don't just tap into a random wire for 12v or ground. Grounds must be perfect as any voltage drop will affect gauge reading. do not ground to the fuse box pins or share a ground wire with anything else.

@@RisingBoostYT Thank you for your information, we used to try it somehow, but this time, it shows AFR at low speed, it does not show when I press the gas, if I go slow, it shows fine, depending on the gas response, but if I go fast, it remains constant at 20, why does it do this?

@ekremarslan3270 it could be maxed out lean, the narrow band sensors dont read accurate if it is far away from 14.7 so its to far away from that. Perhaps your setup running lean? Did you connect the sensor heater wires?

@@RisingBoostYT I installed it right at the bottom of the manifold, but I know it should be 1 meter after the manifold, maybe that's why it's not reading? All cables are connected but it still stays at 20 at high speed.

Does it just stay it 20 or does 20 flash on the gauge? it wont read if the sensor is cold. (2 white wires are sensor heat element) mine worked fitted directly after the turbo.

Hi bro, i'm from Gauteng, I don't make looms for people as I have a full time job, but i'll give you advice if you need.

​@@RisingBoostYT thanks bro am lucky cause am from Limpopo in Giyani and am frequently in and Joburg so i can come to your workshop to get some advice me too am working for the Government but there are some project which am doing on each every Sunday you can click on that picture to find out what's beneath that picture of my profile. am serious my mam i have a 2016 chevy corsa utility which need a detector man urgent. please help my brother.

???

Hi Razeen, yes, the board has 4 holes in it. Poke the wire ends into the hole and solder both sides. Fold wire end double so it goes into the holes firmly

Shot buddy...so from there does it goes to the dizzy

Yes, after the Mag adapter it goes to the dizzy/pickup (the mag adapter and pickup sensor should not be far apart) also only magnetic sensors require a mag adapter.

Thanks buddy another quick it will i need a laptop to get the car to start

Hi, it does fit some other cars also, especially older japanese cars, but not all cars.

Well seen it here first! in my case it would be a massive waste of time, 5+ hours porting for 10hp gain,,,, or 3 clicks on the boost controller for 40hp gain in 1 second. idk, for my needs it looks like a big waste of time.

I'm glad you enjoyed it. Yeah, very easy to work on an now days evening Dseries are common and cheap.

Hi, I found it on AliExpress a long time ago, I have not seen it recently, however you can still get blue PW-JDM (passwordJDM) sets on eBay and Ali. they similar, just thicker.

@@RisingBoostYTAh, gotcha. Ok cool; thanks for your help!

Hi, what is wrong with the engine? smoke? blow-by? a very basic rebuild is new bearings (main/big-end/thrust), new piston rings and valve stem seals. also get a full gasket set so you can replace all the seals. that is a minimum, however there is a lot more, valve guides and valve seats (new valves if needed), Sleeve wear - sleeves bore oversize and new oversize pistons. cam and crank polishing, (cut if needed). new water and oil pump. it all depends on how worn out the engine is. normally a machine shop can measure clearances and tell you what is necessary to replace and what not. 300000 kms is alot but these motors can handle it. I have a 305000kms k24 motor that still runs like a dream, no smoke and not a single leak.

Hi bro, it depends on your country and engineering cost. For me, a gasket set was $70, and engineering was $150. However, I am from South Africa, and engineering could be x10 more expensive depending on your country.