For it to keep blowing head gaskets im fairly certain the head or block is gonna need decked. Make sure to check both for warpage the next time u have it apart. U can either send it to a machine shop or stick some 220g sandpaper to a sheet of glass and try it yourself
Hi Tim, thanks for the advice, this is actually a new build, block and head was done at engineering. problem was the mix match of parts bumping the compression very high + boost on pump fuel. since I fitted the thick head gasket its running great.
Hi, thanks for the advice, in my case the old engine had no issues, the new build with 9.8-1 compression blew 3 head gaskets even when it was making just 110hp, since I put the cheap thick femo gasket from a EG the issue is gone, I suspect my issue was the high compression ratio, as it is running perfect now at 180hp
@@RisingBoostYT I had a few with the D16A9 PM7 pistons at 10,2:1 cr and they made great power on boost. Compression is NOT a problem. A good tuner and fuel is also needed. Never use a D16 flywheel on a D15, trust me. You also need to rev your motor higher, 7500 is easily still safe. Try use a higher pressure rated pressure plate and a non metallic clutch. The cranks thrust bearings will thanks you.
Hi, thanks for sharing your experience and info. I still have some work to do to get it to perform better, the lower comp only dropped 4kw, acceptable for me since I want to run on pump 95, currently revving to 7300 just to get the rpm higher in second gear so it don't drop out of boost. planning to swop in a shorter ratio box. i'm not worried to rev 7500 but it stops making power after 6500 because the boost drop off. so I need to find and fix the boost issue. but I am taking notes, thanks!
Hi Darren, the torque specs are for D-series ARP final torque setting. the 70ft was over torquing it. I use this website - www.nthefastlane.com/d-series-torque-specs
Man I love the build! I just finished up my stock D15B7 build with 440 injectors, fuel pump, ebay turbo, hondata running on about 6.5 psi. I have the same issue of boost going down as rpms increase, and I speculate that the problem is the wastegate spring being too weak and the exhaust gas pressure keeping it open. Another video of yours mentioned your air filter. I am running a wire mesh screen on mine, and I get lovely turbo sounds, so maybe that is worth a look? I live in a colder climate, but my car seems to be producing quite some white smoke even despite the cold at idle. Fluid levels staying relatively constant for now so I am not sure, could be a head gasket just like you though. Keep us updated on how the paper gasket is holding up, and anything else with the car man, it really is a clean build, and I hope it gets to your goals!
Hi, thanks. the wastegate theory can be true as I use an internal gate, I have shortened the gate arm to limit the opening, but still the same. I did pull off the filter during a dyno run and it only made a few hp difference overall. if the white smoke does not go away after like 20-min it is likely the gasket, you should notice some coolant going missing slowly? DON'T use the paper gasket for turbo setup, it's great to "fix an issue for NA" but if the paper gasket blows it could hydrolock the motor and a MLS gasket probably won't. if you keep blowing gaskets during boost you should rather try a thick MLS gasket or even 2 normal gaskets rather.
Hi kenny, no it should not. I am not sure why some gaskets have the 2 extra holes, however it did not cause any issues. Its probably related to the manufacturing process
Hi, I am using a 1.6 head, the D16Z6 sohc vtec head to be specific. the cometic head gasket would definitely be a better option but they are not available in my country sadly. and ordering online will x3 the price once shipping is added.
Hi Prenom, below is links to the NGK wires from ebay and amazon, the Z4 us the same plug wires as all the other EK D15/D16 motors from 1996 to 2000. but EG wires will not work. Part no - RC-HE76 NGK Plug Wires Amazon - amzn.to/3RCXXAu eBay - ebay.us/YBN9Fl
I'm surprised that paper gasket is holding. In my experience the OEM gasket are the best to use untill you go over 300hp. I'm interested to see how much timing that tuner is running in boost. You can't run a lot of timing on the d series you pop head gaskets. Head lift is the biggest problem with the d series. Keep peak cyclinder pressure down by Conservative timing 160-180 coolant temp Low IATs Are you running a 7 heat range spark plug? Also don't run coolant through your throttle body. What size turbo is that And how much psi are you pushing ?
Hi Zach, thanks for sharing. I am as surprised as you are that the spare shop paper gasket fixed my issue. currently its still perfect and it's been a few weeks since I filmed the video. Timing at 7psi is about 20deg. (previously with the steel HG I had it at 14deg and it still blew the HG making only 118hp) Coolant temps are now running as low as they can with the thermostat still in. 172'F +- 10'F plugs are 7 range yes, and no coolant goes to TB. turbo is a china T04E 0.50AR and it makes about 9.5psi for 183whp. I have the motor build on the channel, the mix match build had a compression ratio of 9.8-1 about, I think that was the problem. the thicker HG made it 8.9-1 and now it runs fine, in fact it feels faster now. again, thanks for sharing the info.
@@Alex-B-Media dicktator is cheap and easy but it batch-fires the injectors so low rpm tuning is sometimes an issue. the uniq is probably a better option depending on the cost.
Good video! I got a d16y8. I’m on 10psi making 225hp stock bottom block with a build cylinder head and blown the head gasket twice with ARP head studs installed. I was wondering whats the thickness of the new head gasket you put on there?
Hi Lilo, I had the same issue, blowing gaskets at 160hp, I switched to the older D-series perforated steel gasket from the EF / EG civics, mine was 0,068 or 1.7mm thick, it dropped my compression ratio and now the gasket issue is gone, tested the power and it only dropped about 6hp with the lower comp.
Hi Lebird,, the gasket I used was the one form the D16A7, most D-series gasket work on each other, (but not D17 or A9) but the EK gasket is thinner so it will increase compression. I did make a video on how to replace it. you can get the gaskets from Alert Parts or ProdigyH
Hi, awesome and good luck. the D16v1 is a slightly newer Dseries, it also has high compression. if you boost it I would recommend using high-octane fuel to avoid detonation, if it does blow a head gasket try to get a thicker gasket or lower compression pistons. a set of ARP head studs will also help. my setup with the lower compression is solid so far. head gasket issues are gone.
the Vitara pistons will drop the compression ratio way down, makes it safe for boost. I don't think you will have any head gasket issues with a vitara piston, good fuel and conservative ignition timing. stock rods and head studs only hold about 220whp so just keep it under that and you will be fine.
@@RisingBoostYT i have in the back of my head a desire to also buy the speed factoru no notch rods, and a block guard, what would be a safe limit to stop with these?
the speedfactory rod and YCP piston setup are rated at 350hp I believe, the ARP studs are a must. blocks are fairly strong but if you do buy a block guard get the Supertech one. 350hp easy. some people make more on this setup but of course, you start trading reliability for power after 350. also fuel pump and injectors are a must.
@@RisingBoostYT mixed feelings after fixing the problem using diff. head gasket.. like me thinking oh no its done for the D series but hearing you targeting the 200hp mark!! Got me excited brother!! Goodluck!!!
Hi Bash, the motor is stock, with spare shop pistons, but the big reason is I had head gasket issues, the aim for this setup was 200 - 210hp. Any more than that and it will probably fail, I do plan to turn it up a bit still since I got the headgasket issue fixed.
@@RisingBoostYT oh I didn't know it was a stock rebuild motor, Man you should make more vids, the vids you made were a very good detailed series with great Craftsmanship and Ingenuity
Hi Carlos, yes a full size would help, however my turbo is to big to fit one, initially when I got the car (was boosted already) it had the stock skinny 14mm mini radiator, it didn't seem to have a cooling issue but I upgrade to the thicker 24mm radiator from an auto model, when checking temps it does not look like it wants to overheat even under boost, I also had to go with a slim fan due to space limitations. I need to get a smaller turbo and better routed exhaust before I can do much about the cooling system. i'd like to fit the stock fan is it is better.
In South Africa, the engine no is linked to the vin and displayed on the licence, if someone is looking for a clean engine number they could use my engine no, so better to hide it. Also easy to bribe for info should someone try to find out the cars address. Just africa things bro
also you need a better breathing vent system. ive tried leaving my email in here for you but youtube keeps removing it. i can help. the ign is being retarted bc the coolant temps is over 205F. also the ign marks on the spark plugs when u had the head off tells me what I presumed. im not sure how to get ahold of you vc leaving comments on here isnr working youtube keeps removing them.
temp gauge doesnt go past half unless engine is running over 205... so your at least that or more.. not good.. get yourself a 170 degree thermostat and bleed the coolant with a bleeder funnel for 30mins and wait until the fan comes on 2x. use honda blue coolant only. this will fix alot of ur problems.
Hi Matt, thanks for the advice, I had some cooling issues in the past, and did something similar. I have a 172F thermostat and a fan controller that only allow for 10F over the 172 before fans bring it back down to 172F, setting it any cooler keeps the fans on all the time as the thermostat closes. the gauge in the car always sit in the same spot, perhaps the camera angle is making it look like it is over half. i'll definitely get some of the honda blue coolant.
That Subaru Blue engine bay is the reason why headgasket keeps blowing 😂
🤣 best advice i ever got in the comments so far
For it to keep blowing head gaskets im fairly certain the head or block is gonna need decked. Make sure to check both for warpage the next time u have it apart. U can either send it to a machine shop or stick some 220g sandpaper to a sheet of glass and try it yourself
Hi Tim, thanks for the advice, this is actually a new build, block and head was done at engineering. problem was the mix match of parts bumping the compression very high + boost on pump fuel. since I fitted the thick head gasket its running great.
@@RisingBoostYT shit that is odd but ig it makes sense. I saw the bit of pitting on the head and assumed it had been decked
Always used Payen gaskets and never had a D series blow a gasket. 309whp D15 VTEC with Gude cam, ported head, on 12 psi
Hi, thanks for the advice, in my case the old engine had no issues, the new build with 9.8-1 compression blew 3 head gaskets even when it was making just 110hp, since I put the cheap thick femo gasket from a EG the issue is gone, I suspect my issue was the high compression ratio, as it is running perfect now at 180hp
@@RisingBoostYT I had a few with the D16A9 PM7 pistons at 10,2:1 cr and they made great power on boost. Compression is NOT a problem. A good tuner and fuel is also needed. Never use a D16 flywheel on a D15, trust me. You also need to rev your motor higher, 7500 is easily still safe. Try use a higher pressure rated pressure plate and a non metallic clutch. The cranks thrust bearings will thanks you.
Hi, thanks for sharing your experience and info. I still have some work to do to get it to perform better, the lower comp only dropped 4kw, acceptable for me since I want to run on pump 95, currently revving to 7300 just to get the rpm higher in second gear so it don't drop out of boost. planning to swop in a shorter ratio box. i'm not worried to rev 7500 but it stops making power after 6500 because the boost drop off. so I need to find and fix the boost issue. but I am taking notes, thanks!
Thank you for the torque specs sir , i really appreciate it 😇
Hi Darren, the torque specs are for D-series ARP final torque setting. the 70ft was over torquing it. I use this website - www.nthefastlane.com/d-series-torque-specs
@@RisingBoostYT thank you sm seems everything is to spec on my car
Man I love the build! I just finished up my stock D15B7 build with 440 injectors, fuel pump, ebay turbo, hondata running on about 6.5 psi. I have the same issue of boost going down as rpms increase, and I speculate that the problem is the wastegate spring being too weak and the exhaust gas pressure keeping it open.
Another video of yours mentioned your air filter. I am running a wire mesh screen on mine, and I get lovely turbo sounds, so maybe that is worth a look?
I live in a colder climate, but my car seems to be producing quite some white smoke even despite the cold at idle. Fluid levels staying relatively constant for now so I am not sure, could be a head gasket just like you though.
Keep us updated on how the paper gasket is holding up, and anything else with the car man, it really is a clean build, and I hope it gets to your goals!
Hi, thanks. the wastegate theory can be true as I use an internal gate, I have shortened the gate arm to limit the opening, but still the same. I did pull off the filter during a dyno run and it only made a few hp difference overall. if the white smoke does not go away after like 20-min it is likely the gasket, you should notice some coolant going missing slowly? DON'T use the paper gasket for turbo setup, it's great to "fix an issue for NA" but if the paper gasket blows it could hydrolock the motor and a MLS gasket probably won't. if you keep blowing gaskets during boost you should rather try a thick MLS gasket or even 2 normal gaskets rather.
Mooi man...baie sterk en netjies!
Hi Tj, Dankie, doen goed vir n 1.5
Leka bru, sounds and pulls very strong
Hi Jason, yeah it's pulling really nice and strong now, also reliable as I have done more driving since with no issues.
Hi what do you think off that head gasket spray the copper one
Hi, never used it myself, but also never seen it cause an issue, i'm sure it can only help if you use it correctly.
@@RisingBoostYT hi morning and is intake valves and exhaust valves the same
On the exhaust side, there are two holes on the gasket but not on the block, will that cause any leaks?
Hi kenny, no it should not. I am not sure why some gaskets have the 2 extra holes, however it did not cause any issues. Its probably related to the manufacturing process
Try to install 1.6 head and use the cosmetic head gasket
Hi, I am using a 1.6 head, the D16Z6 sohc vtec head to be specific. the cometic head gasket would definitely be a better option but they are not available in my country sadly. and ordering online will x3 the price once shipping is added.
Please What is the correct spark plug cable reference for my d15z4
Hi Prenom, below is links to the NGK wires from ebay and amazon, the Z4 us the same plug wires as all the other EK D15/D16 motors from 1996 to 2000. but EG wires will not work. Part no - RC-HE76
NGK Plug Wires
Amazon - amzn.to/3RCXXAu
eBay - ebay.us/YBN9Fl
Thanks for the clarification and links. We wish you all happiness☺️
I'm surprised that paper gasket is holding.
In my experience the OEM gasket are the best to use untill you go over 300hp.
I'm interested to see how much timing that tuner is running in boost.
You can't run a lot of timing on the d series you pop head gaskets.
Head lift is the biggest problem with the d series.
Keep peak cyclinder pressure down by
Conservative timing
160-180 coolant temp
Low IATs
Are you running a 7 heat range spark plug?
Also don't run coolant through your throttle body.
What size turbo is that
And how much psi are you pushing ?
Hi Zach, thanks for sharing. I am as surprised as you are that the spare shop paper gasket fixed my issue. currently its still perfect and it's been a few weeks since I filmed the video.
Timing at 7psi is about 20deg. (previously with the steel HG I had it at 14deg and it still blew the HG making only 118hp)
Coolant temps are now running as low as they can with the thermostat still in. 172'F +- 10'F
plugs are 7 range yes, and no coolant goes to TB.
turbo is a china T04E 0.50AR and it makes about 9.5psi for 183whp.
I have the motor build on the channel, the mix match build had a compression ratio of 9.8-1 about, I think that was the problem. the thicker HG made it 8.9-1 and now it runs fine, in fact it feels faster now.
again, thanks for sharing the info.
Leeeeekker bru! Where about in sa are you based ?
Hi Alex, Gauteng, east rand.
@@RisingBoostYT Awesome! Your quality is top notch! I'm busy swopping my d16 to a p08 head (i have the ZC jdm motor) so glad i discovered your channel
Thanks Alex, goodluck with the swop! what ecu are you going to use to trigger the vtec?
@@RisingBoostYT the plan is to go uniq or apexi controller for now, and go towards dictator
@@Alex-B-Media dicktator is cheap and easy but it batch-fires the injectors so low rpm tuning is sometimes an issue. the uniq is probably a better option depending on the cost.
Hi my friend
Mi Honda d16w5. APR model ?
Hi Fabio, I responded to your other comment.
Good video! I got a d16y8. I’m on 10psi making 225hp stock bottom block with a build cylinder head and blown the head gasket twice with ARP head studs installed. I was wondering whats the thickness of the new head gasket you put on there?
Hi Lilo, I had the same issue, blowing gaskets at 160hp, I switched to the older D-series perforated steel gasket from the EF / EG civics, mine was 0,068 or 1.7mm thick, it dropped my compression ratio and now the gasket issue is gone, tested the power and it only dropped about 6hp with the lower comp.
I found out that the gasket on my Honda was done. The mechanic never replaced it. It's a D16A7 block
Hi Lebird,, the gasket I used was the one form the D16A7, most D-series gasket work on each other, (but not D17 or A9) but the EK gasket is thinner so it will increase compression. I did make a video on how to replace it. you can get the gaskets from Alert Parts or ProdigyH
Link for head gasket?
Hi, try Alert Parts or www.prodigyh.co.za/part/sr40gskch15-cylinder-head-gasket-d15b3d16a7/80
Thank you for the link .
in summer im boosting my d16v1 , im scared of the whole headgasket thing
Hi, awesome and good luck. the D16v1 is a slightly newer Dseries, it also has high compression. if you boost it I would recommend using high-octane fuel to avoid detonation, if it does blow a head gasket try to get a thicker gasket or lower compression pistons. a set of ARP head studs will also help. my setup with the lower compression is solid so far. head gasket issues are gone.
@@RisingBoostYT im planning on getting YCP vitara pistons and later speed factory no notch rods
the Vitara pistons will drop the compression ratio way down, makes it safe for boost. I don't think you will have any head gasket issues with a vitara piston, good fuel and conservative ignition timing. stock rods and head studs only hold about 220whp so just keep it under that and you will be fine.
@@RisingBoostYT i have in the back of my head a desire to also buy the speed factoru no notch rods, and a block guard, what would be a safe limit to stop with these?
the speedfactory rod and YCP piston setup are rated at 350hp I believe, the ARP studs are a must. blocks are fairly strong but if you do buy a block guard get the Supertech one. 350hp easy. some people make more on this setup but of course, you start trading reliability for power after 350. also fuel pump and injectors are a must.
Nice niceeee!!!
lets gooo letss go for the 200hp mark!!
Hi NoLimit, I am going to push for that 200hp!!
@@RisingBoostYT mixed feelings after fixing the problem using diff. head gasket.. like me thinking oh no its done for the D series but hearing you targeting the 200hp mark!! Got me excited brother!! Goodluck!!!
Why did you make such a little power with a built motor
Hi Bash, the motor is stock, with spare shop pistons, but the big reason is I had head gasket issues, the aim for this setup was 200 - 210hp. Any more than that and it will probably fail, I do plan to turn it up a bit still since I got the headgasket issue fixed.
@@RisingBoostYT oh I didn't know it was a stock rebuild motor, Man you should make more vids, the vids you made were a very good detailed series with great Craftsmanship and Ingenuity
Hi Bash, thanks for the compliment, glad you enjoy it. working on more content, just slow because it is a weekend hobby for now.
You need a full size radiator
Hi Carlos, yes a full size would help, however my turbo is to big to fit one, initially when I got the car (was boosted already) it had the stock skinny 14mm mini radiator, it didn't seem to have a cooling issue but I upgrade to the thicker 24mm radiator from an auto model, when checking temps it does not look like it wants to overheat even under boost, I also had to go with a slim fan due to space limitations. I need to get a smaller turbo and better routed exhaust before I can do much about the cooling system. i'd like to fit the stock fan is it is better.
@@RisingBoostYT love the build the Honda Civic single cams are great
Cod colour engine bay sir
Thanks! glad you like it
why would you blur serial numbers? does that mean the shit is stolen or is it to stop people from making fake calls into cops or what
In South Africa, the engine no is linked to the vin and displayed on the licence, if someone is looking for a clean engine number they could use my engine no, so better to hide it. Also easy to bribe for info should someone try to find out the cars address. Just africa things bro
also you need a better breathing vent system. ive tried leaving my email in here for you but youtube keeps removing it. i can help. the ign is being retarted bc the coolant temps is over 205F. also the ign marks on the spark plugs when u had the head off tells me what I presumed. im not sure how to get ahold of you vc leaving comments on here isnr working youtube keeps removing them.
Hi Matt, thanks of the advice, you can DM me on instagram, I know RUclips removes links, even mine sometimes.
temp gauge doesnt go past half unless engine is running over 205... so your at least that or more.. not good.. get yourself a 170 degree thermostat and bleed the coolant with a bleeder funnel for 30mins and wait until the fan comes on 2x. use honda blue coolant only. this will fix alot of ur problems.
Hi Matt, thanks for the advice, I had some cooling issues in the past, and did something similar. I have a 172F thermostat and a fan controller that only allow for 10F over the 172 before fans bring it back down to 172F, setting it any cooler keeps the fans on all the time as the thermostat closes. the gauge in the car always sit in the same spot, perhaps the camera angle is making it look like it is over half. i'll definitely get some of the honda blue coolant.
@@RisingBoostYT I was looking at that as well
Mine sits at about a quarter, but I run no thermostat. Runs around 180ish
First!!
Hi Mike! awesome, thanks for the support!