Turbo Civic Blew Up - How To Replace a Honda Head Gasket

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  • Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
  • In this video, we diagnose the turbo honda civic and determine that the head gasket is blown, I then show you how to change a head gasket the easy way, by removing as few as possible bolts and parts.
    Head bolt torque specs for the Honda D-series Z & Y series motors are -
    Step 1 - 22 ft-lbs (30 Nm)
    Step 2 - 53 ft-lbs (72 Nm)
    For the 3-layer steel head gaskets
    This video can be described as a "how to change your honda head gasket DIY"
    The Honda D-Series is easy to work on and the cylinder head can be removed in under 1 hour.
    Get a Honda Repair Manual Online - shrsl.com/40flk
    22% OFF Any Manual - Use Code at Checkout: RISINGBOOST22
    Affiliate link to helpful online repair manuals from eManualOnline.
    The Build/Setup
    1998 RHD Honda Civic EK Hatch.
    Full Parts List
    Greddy Style (eBay) Turbo Manifold & T04E 0.50AR Turbo (Too Big)
    440cc Bosch Injectors & Walbro 255L Fuel Pump.
    Stand Alone ECU (Dictator Standard) (RSA)
    Stock D15Z4 Block / D16Z6 Head / Y8 Intake Manifold
    63mm Custom Charge Pipes / Universal Intercooler (Small 20cm)
    Xcell BOV / Internal Westgate 0.3 Bar
    eBay Adjustable Cam Gear / 63mm Custom Downpipe & Exhaust.
    Source of the head bolt torque settings - www.nthefastla...

Комментарии • 33

  • @CPurdiePlays
    @CPurdiePlays 2 года назад +4

    I appreciate you putting it this video and including the Bald Eagle Units. Gave me a good laugh.

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад

      Hi Christopher, Glad you enjoyed it!

  • @TechniqBB6
    @TechniqBB6 2 года назад +3

    Shoo glad you didn't cause any major damage. Love the attention to detail. Keep it up bud 👌

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад +1

      Hi Mr Prelude, thanks, yes we got lucky, for now it looks like the quick fix is working.

  • @halolime117
    @halolime117 2 года назад +3

    Damn im sorry to hear, been watching since the start of the adventure but never commented really, I’ll keep my thumbs held that you pull this through!! 💪💪

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад +1

      Hi Bro, thanks for watching, nothing is going to stop us from making the target power!

  • @mobilebeeler
    @mobilebeeler 2 года назад +4

    Just as a heads up... You seem like a decent person who actually cares about their stuff (i can tell from your huge attetion to detail)... You need to put a 1 way check valve in-line with the PCV valve if your going to run the system that way. Make sure it will close under boost. Because those factory pcv valves were not meant to see boost, they dont close every time when the manifold is under pressure. If you can find a clear 3/8 check valve (sometimes aquarium stores sell them) it will help so you can see through the check valve to make sure its not getting clogged. But def need a check valve. Otherwise like 50% of the time the manifold sees boost, so will the crank case....
    Happy boosting.
    Cheers.

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад +1

      Hi Matt, thanks for the advice and taking the time to share helpful information. I actually for this reason block that hose off, after the pcv valve it is just blocked, I am just using the pipe because I could not stand having the block-off be visible on the intake manifold, so the pipe does not connect to the black breather box, and then I left the breather box open to atmosphere, same with the valve cover breather, I do plan to rout it to a catch can later on. but thanks for the tip with the check valve, I will look into that, see if I can find one.

  • @nolimit12
    @nolimit12 2 года назад +2

    as always thank you for the update boost!

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад

      Hi No Limit, My pleasure! thanks for the support.

  • @MikeKollin
    @MikeKollin 2 года назад +2

    Sorry to hear that!!

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад +1

      Hi Mike, thanks for the support! lucky we got if fixed and for now its still holding up.

    • @MikeKollin
      @MikeKollin Год назад

      @@RisingBoostYT Cool...

  • @3dw3dw
    @3dw3dw 2 года назад +2

    We are supposed to retorted our head studs at 1000 miles. Personally I think 500 is better then again at 1000. That prevents head gasket sealing issues. But after second retorque should be good to go.

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад +1

      Hi 3dw3dw, thank for the advice, this is a highly debated topic on the forms. but I will say that retorquing did work for me initially. but I do suspect that I stretched my head studs with the higher comp, old tunes ignition timing + boost

    • @3dw3dw
      @3dw3dw 2 года назад

      @@RisingBoostYT I don't know about the debatability. I just know that it is required per the instructions included with arp2000 stud sets. Instructions call for retorque at 1000 miles. I feel safer to retorque at 500 miles then again at another 500 miles.

  • @rashieddavids940
    @rashieddavids940 2 года назад +2

    Mooi man love the setup

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад +1

      Hi Rashied, dankie! dyno session coming soon..

  • @lilbboy373
    @lilbboy373 Год назад +2

    Hi what tool/ did you do to get the middle bolt out on the intake manifold? I was watching as best I could.

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  Год назад +1

      Hi bro, I use 2 small 10mm spanners, the ring sides are slightly offset, so I can swop between the 2 and bolt it on from the top through the small hole in the intake

    • @lilbboy373
      @lilbboy373 Год назад

      Thank you bro!. I changed the valve cover gasket then cleaned some gunk off the engine and saw that my leak is a step deeper at the head gasket. So I'll be doing this very soon Ive just been researching a lot

  • @jackcannon8407
    @jackcannon8407 11 месяцев назад +1

    literally looks just like mine got the head off yesterday lol

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  11 месяцев назад

      Awesome bro, good luck with assembly, dm me a Pic to Instagram.

  • @johndamnt1092
    @johndamnt1092 7 месяцев назад +1

    I’m running an SiR body with d16zc on it. Any cam suggestions? Just gonna run it NA but I wanna switch to an aftermarket cam and cam gear

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  7 месяцев назад

      Hi John, ZC I assume it is the "Similar to Y8" ZC, if the head code is P2J? the stock sohc vtec cams are fairly good, I would spend money on a Skunk2 intake manifold, slightly bigger TB and exhaust system first, then a cam, they pricey though but look at skunk2, speedfactory or brian crower, cam gear - personally I think skunk2 make the nicest cam gear. just be sure the cam is not intended for turbo setup. some cams require a valve kit also. it is basically limited to what you want to spend. if you do change the cam you can benefit a lot from a good tune.

  • @PedroGomes-dn2ti
    @PedroGomes-dn2ti 7 месяцев назад +1

    The temperature on the dash shows overheating? My d16y7 stock stay down in comparative to your civic.

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  7 месяцев назад +1

      Hi Pedro, I get this comment a lot, I think it is because it is a JDM cluster (kmph), because they all sit like that at operating temp, I have a Fan controller only allowing temp to go 10F above where the thermostat opens before the fan bring it back to where the thermostat opens at 172F, so it only goes to 182F max. but the cluster always sit in that spot.

  • @junkybuilt8990
    @junkybuilt8990 2 года назад +2

    Need some arp head studs…

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад +1

      Yes that is correct, but I must cheap out first, learn and then get ARP's

  • @HondaCivicEk9DudeSA
    @HondaCivicEk9DudeSA 2 года назад +1

    I also have a white civic...my problem is a crank sensor...for some reason mine is gone the car did drive but now it doesn't wanna start...should i take it apart?

    • @RisingBoostYT
      @RisingBoostYT  2 года назад +1

      Hi, what model civic do you have? most of the 80s/90s D-series motors don't have crank sensors, they use the 3 sensors inside the dizzy to determine engine position.

    • @HondaCivicEk9DudeSA
      @HondaCivicEk9DudeSA 2 года назад

      @@RisingBoostYT it's a d series same as yours but the dizzy is not the same I'll post a video of my car and engine

  • @khairulshahrizan750
    @khairulshahrizan750 Год назад +1

    Line paip terbo