i finally fell down the honda rabbit hole october last year and picked up a clean K24 EP3. i've had an absolute ton of fun putting parts on this car. everything is just so simple and straight forward. other than fighting bearings, bushings, motor mounts and normal 20yr old car problems it's been a breeze! I've got about 11k into my build(wheels tires bushings and bearings all around BC ER coils motor mounts shifter and cables and 6-piston wilwood brakes) and am already planning forced induction!!!
I saw the heat shield and thought wow ! Then I remembered the car isn't Canadian. Otherwise it would be on the side of a highway somewhere about 6 years ago.
As always, fantastic work. Im a Honda enthusiast in my 40s now, and we have the same taste in modifications. Like, i would have hated to see the pipes sticking out of the bumper. 😂
The intercooler is mounted backwards. The Go-Autoworks logo should be facing outside, so other people can see you have real quality stuff on your Civic. I also have a turbo kit from Go-Autoworks and Greg is always helping out if I ever need help with anything. Even tho I don't live in the US, he will always help out when I need it.
I still have my Go-Autoworks downpipe, catch can and intercooler piping. He made it back in 2011 for me, back before he welded his logo onto the pipes. Quality stuff!
PT could get a second job at Vibrant fabricating downpipes and welding. I recommend putting some fire sleeve over the turbo drain line and exhaust wrapping the intercooler, downpipe and radiator hose. Good job guys🏆
Your channel is one of the ones that has inspired me over the past few years to learn TIG welding. I finally got a welder (Primeweld) and need a few more things, but I'll be ready to practice soon! Thanks for the inspiration!
With Pete’s attention to detail and strive for perfection… I would love to see a Gd sti build. Hawkeye preferably. Thank you guys for what you do! Keep up the quality content.
I watched this episode literally 4 times and I love this build cause my first car was a 92 eg, and I out a b18c1 in it and had another eg as a beater some years later. I love the eg platform. Thank you guys for bringing back so many memories. I love you Pete and Dave. Ps. I loved the surprise Pete got when he removed the bumper. Lol
Talking from my experience with Hondas and adding turbos you can fabricate your charge pipes to work with out cutting your bumper or the radiator support.. just got take some time making pie cuts to give it the right angle for clearance and save the front bumper
For drilling into stainless , slow speed and lubrication is the key. Stainless will work-harden very quickly and keeping the friction down is a must. As soon as you sent it with a small bit at high speed you turned the lattice into a molecular fortress lol (ask me how I know, speak from experience)
@@mattdeverall3138 get a custom AC condenser fabbed up to go NEXT to the radiator. Try and have the bare minimum of things in front of the radiator. Anything that's in front of it will require ducting so the air is forced through it, not out of the sides. Been there done that with my ITR build. Not ducting properly will result in overheat issues
I need that car in my life.. I built a 92 and did the b20b non . Had to get rid of it due to medical issues. But hope to do it again when I have the time and the money
Something I learned when trying to drill through steel is to go slow and lubricate the bit. I learned this after destroying 2 kits trying to drill through multiple melted exhaust bolts
The EMS's you'll likely end up using will have boost by gear and also boost by rpm. You could have used a low-psi spring with a G25 and had boost ramp in after peak torque. It's very helpful when the engine doesn't have max-effort cams or a smaller turbo.
I'm stoked on this build! Non-vtec FTW I'm doing a very similar turbo kit + motor built for my time attack dc2; CSS B18b arias flattop 10:1 pistons, Speed Factory rods, BC stage 2 turbo cams + springs + retainers, FIC 775cc injectors radium fuel dampener, AEM rail & reg, skunk2 pro IM + 68mm TB, go auto works charge piping 2.5", pfab turbo manifold, precision 5858, greddy FMIC+ BOV + airinx intake+ oil cooler, CSF full size rad (built kit around clearing full rad, spal fans, wave trac LSD, comp clutch stage 2, AEM infinity & CD5 dash. Really looking forward to see #'s & how it comes together. I'm jealous of the Artec manifold I didn't know they made Honda manifolds until recently after I had mine built but probably wouldn't clear full rad.
Also you mentioned the oil drain pooling up into the turbo I've heard of that happening w/ 90's at the oil pan and from experienced sources was recommended nothing more than a 45 just a heads up
Pro tip for the tig is to set your tungsten length to be correct while the cup is resting on your joint, that way you can essentially wiggle the torch to move instead of having a shaky hand. you’ll have way less dunks into the weld and I always notice you have excessive stick out anyway. Otherwise nice job
I managed to fit a 650hp intercooler behind my bumper without cutting the fog housings. I did have to trim the grillle a lot. But I didn’t cut it out it’s still fully intact I just shaved the back side and thinned it out. But I say mine alot lower basically RIGHT above level with the bottom of the core support.
304 stainless is brutal on bits and blades, especially cold cut saw. It hardens as it heats. I have switched to doing all of my exhausts in 409. Cheaper, easier to work with, and still extremely corrosion resistant. 304 is the premier material though.
When I built my high horsepower turbo Civic I installed an OBX LSD (that I modified with stronger belleville washers and cap bolts) and a LS 5th gear into my GSR trans. The 4th to 5th transition was a big step.
At around 13:30 in the video, I have a set of bore brushes I can put on a drill and dip in used synthetic motor oil. Cleans out rusty threaded holes super well.
If working with stainless and you dont immediately see chips, stop. You will burn the bit almost instantly. The chips pull the heat away. Also, lubrication helps.
Very excited for this build. The EF as well. Trying to decide the VTEC vs boost for my B20B build in my 89 Hatch. This will be a huge help! The dump pipe was $. Way to go with those "novice" fab skills! 😅
You want ducting between the intercooler and radiators so there's no gaps to allow the airflow to 'stall' or you'll run into cooling issues on track after continuous lapping. If you don't sort it, that B16B will hand you your arse after about 6 laps because you can't keep on it whereas the NA motor will just keep lapping up the abuse.
If you still have the transmission out and depending on your power/ET goals, I would look into putting an LS final drive in. We had the best success using LS final drive with a GSR gear set at both the strip and street. This was with stock LS revving to 7500 making just north of 300whp. On 24.5 inch tires, we consistently got to 120 trap speed with full interior right at the top of 4th with that setup
Pete do you have a plasma cutter it would make quick work at 25:00 . In Hamilton there is the Everlast welders distributor and they sell mig tig plasma you can even go in and try machinw i'm sure they would show you how to use if you never have. Great work on the cars as always
25:25 Pete, you silly goose, you have to use a center punch to give your bits a fighting chance 😢 the web of the bit needs a divot, dent, or dimple to fit inside so the "teeth" can start cutting. It's not that the steel is too hard, you just can't start without a center punch mark.
15.05 a nice misty coat of high temp spray paint would do just fine on those elbows, no need to blow the wad on little stuff (which you may even want to reengineer later, it's Lego, uh I mean Honda, afterall)
Need to pulse that drill whem drilling stainless, 1/8th pilot hole, and some rapid tap or equivalent. It's way easier after you've done it once or twice. But yeah, just holding the trigger and drilling is going to ruin bits and heat the stainless, making it harder
Curious to see how well that half size (OEM size) performs with the addition of the snail, hope you're training your arms, shoulders and forearms PT, turbo FWD are quite a handfull 🤣
That LS 5th gear is going to be brutal in a b16 gearbox, the 4th gear is a 1.1 (LS is .966 and gsr is 1.034) so a gear spread of 1.1 to .71 is going to be a massive drop in rpm. Since 4th is pretty short in a b16 gearbox you might even use 5th at the track since you're likely not going to be revving the non-vtec engine all that high. Even at 7500 rpm 4th will only get you to around 100-105 mph. You guys might really want to rethink that LS 5th gear
@@speedacademy Yea I totally understand, the cruising rpm isn't ideal on the b16 gearbox for that engine. What about running something like a GSR gearbox with the LS 5th? I was watching the type R at TMP and Daves right around 7500rpm in 4th towards the end of the straight (sounds like it might be a 98 ITR box so gsr 4th with 4.7fd). The civic mayyy need to use 5th with the b16 4th depending on the rev limit. GSR 4th with the 4.4fd will get you to around 112mph with 7500rpm. Otherwise if you just really want the shorter b16 1-4 for the street then go for it! 👍
Pete: "I am a novice fabricator."
- proceeds to finish off the episode highlighting his glorious fabrication skills.
For real! Looked great!
Whan an ass haha
As a fellow Honda enthusiast from Ontario I’m low key jealous how clean that eg is lol
i finally fell down the honda rabbit hole october last year and picked up a clean K24 EP3. i've had an absolute ton of fun putting parts on this car. everything is just so simple and straight forward. other than fighting bearings, bushings, motor mounts and normal 20yr old car problems it's been a breeze! I've got about 11k into my build(wheels tires bushings and bearings all around BC ER coils motor mounts shifter and cables and 6-piston wilwood brakes) and am already planning forced induction!!!
Share it !!
Hell yeah
Pete starting the episode off with his fly down killed me.
😂
-What are you looking at?"
+"Your fly is down."
-"It´s my workshop."
I had a b18b1 in my 94 integra. 5speed manual pushing 12lbs! I think the b18b1 ia an underrated motor! Add boost and its a monster
If you don’t want a screamer pipe, you can also fit a high flow motorcycle muffler. It works pretty well.
I saw the heat shield and thought wow ! Then I remembered the car isn't Canadian. Otherwise it would be on the side of a highway somewhere about 6 years ago.
As always, fantastic work. Im a Honda enthusiast in my 40s now, and we have the same taste in modifications. Like, i would have hated to see the pipes sticking out of the bumper. 😂
Pete flexing his gorgeous welds on this build. Love these series you guys run, keep it up! Love from Minnesota
The intercooler is mounted backwards. The Go-Autoworks logo should be facing outside, so other people can see you have real quality stuff on your Civic. I also have a turbo kit from Go-Autoworks and Greg is always helping out if I ever need help with anything. Even tho I don't live in the US, he will always help out when I need it.
Thank you, I greatly appreciate it
I still have my Go-Autoworks downpipe, catch can and intercooler piping. He made it back in 2011 for me, back before he welded his logo onto the pipes. Quality stuff!
PT could get a second job at Vibrant fabricating downpipes and welding. I recommend putting some fire sleeve over the turbo drain line and exhaust wrapping the intercooler, downpipe and radiator hose. Good job guys🏆
Your channel is one of the ones that has inspired me over the past few years to learn TIG welding. I finally got a welder (Primeweld) and need a few more things, but I'll be ready to practice soon! Thanks for the inspiration!
Great choice on a welder! I have a 225x and I love it
With Pete’s attention to detail and strive for perfection… I would love to see a Gd sti build. Hawkeye preferably. Thank you guys for what you do! Keep up the quality content.
Man in my youth I always wanted a turbo non vtech car, living vicariously!
I appreciate the fact that you gentlemen use catalytic converters on every build
Yeah, Instead of 'kicking the can down the road' (american phrase) and basically saying let the next generation deal with it lol
@@jeremyb4493yes, a cat will hold back the pole reversal and a solar maximum
I think they have to in ontario. In other provinces not so much
I'm the same way, and much the same as these guys the primary reason I do so is because I hate how cars stink without them.
I watched this episode literally 4 times and I love this build cause my first car was a 92 eg, and I out a b18c1 in it and had another eg as a beater some years later. I love the eg platform. Thank you guys for bringing back so many memories. I love you Pete and Dave.
Ps. I loved the surprise Pete got when he removed the bumper. Lol
That's a cool exhaust manifold, never seen it before.
Single jingle owner from BC admiring the hard work.
When Drilling stainless, use some tapping fluid to help the drill bit.
Talking from my experience with Hondas and adding turbos you can fabricate your charge pipes to work with out cutting your bumper or the radiator support.. just got take some time making pie cuts to give it the right angle for clearance and save the front bumper
For drilling into stainless , slow speed and lubrication is the key. Stainless will work-harden very quickly and keeping the friction down is a must. As soon as you sent it with a small bit at high speed you turned the lattice into a molecular fortress lol (ask me how I know, speak from experience)
Inline Pro cast B series mani is theee best for tight fitment scenarios. Ran one on my turbo ITR, zero issues.
I have the same on my 94 del Sol VTEC. Now I just need to figure out the radiator and A/C condenser which might look just like the one in this build.
@@mattdeverall3138 get a custom AC condenser fabbed up to go NEXT to the radiator. Try and have the bare minimum of things in front of the radiator. Anything that's in front of it will require ducting so the air is forced through it, not out of the sides.
Been there done that with my ITR build. Not ducting properly will result in overheat issues
Argon purge when working with stainless steel. Helps prevent “sugaring”
Da boisss! Lets go! Damn PT is really stepping it up with the fab game!
Pete when I built my downpipe I ended up using an angle grinder or Dremel tool and cutting a rough outline, then shaping it with the Dremel tool.
PT you got to give yourself credit. You’re an awesome fabricator!
Can’t wait to see the track battle 🤤
I need that car in my life.. I built a 92 and did the b20b non . Had to get rid of it due to medical issues. But hope to do it again when I have the time and the money
Something I learned when trying to drill through steel is to go slow and lubricate the bit. I learned this after destroying 2 kits trying to drill through multiple melted exhaust bolts
The EMS's you'll likely end up using will have boost by gear and also boost by rpm. You could have used a low-psi spring with a G25 and had boost ramp in after peak torque. It's very helpful when the engine doesn't have max-effort cams or a smaller turbo.
I'm stoked on this build! Non-vtec FTW I'm doing a very similar turbo kit + motor built for my time attack dc2; CSS B18b arias flattop 10:1 pistons, Speed Factory rods, BC stage 2 turbo cams + springs + retainers, FIC 775cc injectors radium fuel dampener, AEM rail & reg, skunk2 pro IM + 68mm TB, go auto works charge piping 2.5", pfab turbo manifold, precision 5858, greddy FMIC+ BOV + airinx intake+ oil cooler, CSF full size rad (built kit around clearing full rad, spal fans, wave trac LSD, comp clutch stage 2, AEM infinity & CD5 dash. Really looking forward to see #'s & how it comes together. I'm jealous of the Artec manifold I didn't know they made Honda manifolds until recently after I had mine built but probably wouldn't clear full rad.
Also you mentioned the oil drain pooling up into the turbo I've heard of that happening w/ 90's at the oil pan and from experienced sources was recommended nothing more than a 45 just a heads up
I'm glued to this build series, and i'm not even a Honda fan boy.
Finally, I've been waiting on this one, I've watched the whole EF build
Absolutely love this channel. Heck I even thumb up the video before I even watch the whole thing!! Thanks Speed Academy!!
My man, purging that AC straight to the atmosphere while he turns his head and holds his breath!
Thoroughly enjoyable episode and great work on making that exhaust👍
17:54 how to ride a unicycle and lose a washer in a part you are about to return... lol ! This is one of my very favorite channels
Pro tip for the tig is to set your tungsten length to be correct while the cup is resting on your joint, that way you can essentially wiggle the torch to move instead of having a shaky hand. you’ll have way less dunks into the weld and I always notice you have excessive stick out anyway. Otherwise nice job
welding part was fun to watch
Great EP gents! can't wait to see the track test. Bolts plus sells good quality drill bits for SS.
you will need to build fan shroud for that Rad, also dont forgot us honda guys usually buy parts from 95 to 01 integra gsr!!
I managed to fit a 650hp intercooler behind my bumper without cutting the fog housings. I did have to trim the grillle a lot. But I didn’t cut it out it’s still fully intact I just shaved the back side and thinned it out. But I say mine alot lower basically RIGHT above level with the bottom of the core support.
18:56 thought you were rapping, i was waiting for the beat to drop.
304 stainless is brutal on bits and blades, especially cold cut saw. It hardens as it heats. I have switched to doing all of my exhausts in 409. Cheaper, easier to work with, and still extremely corrosion resistant. 304 is the premier material though.
When I built my high horsepower turbo Civic I installed an OBX LSD (that I modified with stronger belleville washers and cap bolts) and a LS 5th gear into my GSR trans. The 4th to 5th transition was a big step.
Depending on what your final drive is. If you use the stock gsr then yeah. Use the ls one and it is not that bad
@@darksidegarage910 Yeah, I'm fairly certain that the final drive of my GSR transmission was 4.4.
At around 13:30 in the video, I have a set of bore brushes I can put on a drill and dip in used synthetic motor oil. Cleans out rusty threaded holes super well.
If working with stainless and you dont immediately see chips, stop. You will burn the bit almost instantly. The chips pull the heat away. Also, lubrication helps.
Very excited for this build. The EF as well. Trying to decide the VTEC vs boost for my B20B build in my 89 Hatch. This will be a huge help!
The dump pipe was $. Way to go with those "novice" fab skills! 😅
It would be nice if you rebuild a H22A and put it on a EK you don’t see that a lot.
Your fab skills are getting really solid. I want to see you guys build a jank turbo setup on a car with spending less than $1000 using junkyard parts.
Great job, Pete! A pleasure to watch the downpipe job
Wow, excellent build. Always great to wake up Saturday morning for a new episode.
You want ducting between the intercooler and radiators so there's no gaps to allow the airflow to 'stall' or you'll run into cooling issues on track after continuous lapping. If you don't sort it, that B16B will hand you your arse after about 6 laps because you can't keep on it whereas the NA motor will just keep lapping up the abuse.
Well done! Such an advantage knowing how to weld! It came out great!
If you still have the transmission out and depending on your power/ET goals, I would look into putting an LS final drive in. We had the best success using LS final drive with a GSR gear set at both the strip and street. This was with stock LS revving to 7500 making just north of 300whp. On 24.5 inch tires, we consistently got to 120 trap speed with full interior right at the top of 4th with that setup
I love watching the fabrication! Well done gentlemen.
I would put gold heat reflective DEI tape on the oil pan near the downpipe.
Bro, your fly is down...🤣🤣🤣
woah… why you looking down there 😏
@@chocoflanhez Because who doesn't like penis?? DUH... 🤣🤣
Damn son!
Why you staring man don't be jealous!
We call that Florida AC..
Awesome job Peter ! Car looking killer keep up the great work and videos!
Nice job weld is always a lot of work! Tig welding all day make me feel like shit !
Great stuff dude, that kit went on pretty smooth
Pete do you have a plasma cutter it would make quick work at 25:00 . In Hamilton there is the Everlast welders distributor and they sell mig tig plasma you can even go in and try machinw i'm sure they would show you how to use if you never have. Great work on the cars as always
We do. Great idea, will use it next time
First comment from the US, let’s go boys - love the build aye🔥🔥
25:25 Pete, you silly goose, you have to use a center punch to give your bits a fighting chance 😢 the web of the bit needs a divot, dent, or dimple to fit inside so the "teeth" can start cutting. It's not that the steel is too hard, you just can't start without a center punch mark.
I tried a punch and oil though
@@speedacademy sorry didn't see that 🤦♂️🙇♂️ maybe the heat treatment of the tubing made it harder than woodpecker lips.
Great work. I wouldn’t call you a “novice” fabricator - it looks just fine. 👍
Now that I know how to turbo a civic, all I need is:
1: A Honda Civic
2: money for the turbo kit.
15.05 a nice misty coat of high temp spray paint would do just fine on those elbows, no need to blow the wad on little stuff (which you may even want to reengineer later, it's Lego, uh I mean Honda, afterall)
Need to pulse that drill whem drilling stainless, 1/8th pilot hole, and some rapid tap or equivalent.
It's way easier after you've done it once or twice. But yeah, just holding the trigger and drilling is going to ruin bits and heat the stainless, making it harder
B18b Ts are fun. They make good tq for the HP
You guys put out some of the best content out there!
Great fabwork Pete, love to see it
Finally! a youtube channel that shows us how to super-turbo da choo-choo bang pop bang GANG FOLYFE!!!!! And....its all on the FLY........down.
i hope both hondas get a 4wd conversion as well.
Level 7 has great products and I use them on my 2jz builds
Great install as always!
Awesome video!
The best builders leave their fly down. Easy access baby! lol
Wish I had your novice welding skills
Nice build, Ls-Vtec that thing.
It's great to see a Canadian performance channel. Great job! Where are you guys located?
17 thousand views!?!?!? Why are people sleeping on these guys??? RUclips needs to adjust their algorithms...
Nice job on the fab work, I'd say you're being modest calling yourself a novice. :-)
great video brother. love ur honda builds
Artec is really getting popular it seems
Hell yeah! Quality content as always guys!
“Isn’t super mint”.. says the guy with a unicorn 92 civic in immaculate condition
Curious to see how well that half size (OEM size) performs with the addition of the snail, hope you're training your arms, shoulders and forearms PT, turbo FWD are quite a handfull 🤣
Amazing video, thanks for the detailed information!
Great video as always!
Get yourself some carbide drills. It’ll make you life a little easier when working with harder materials.
You guys should do a budget d series build!
That LS 5th gear is going to be brutal in a b16 gearbox, the 4th gear is a 1.1 (LS is .966 and gsr is 1.034) so a gear spread of 1.1 to .71 is going to be a massive drop in rpm. Since 4th is pretty short in a b16 gearbox you might even use 5th at the track since you're likely not going to be revving the non-vtec engine all that high. Even at 7500 rpm 4th will only get you to around 100-105 mph. You guys might really want to rethink that LS 5th gear
This isnt a track car its a street car that will see a track battle. Having that drop is exactly what I want so it can be enjoyable on the highway
@@speedacademy Yea I totally understand, the cruising rpm isn't ideal on the b16 gearbox for that engine. What about running something like a GSR gearbox with the LS 5th? I was watching the type R at TMP and Daves right around 7500rpm in 4th towards the end of the straight (sounds like it might be a 98 ITR box so gsr 4th with 4.7fd). The civic mayyy need to use 5th with the b16 4th depending on the rev limit. GSR 4th with the 4.4fd will get you to around 112mph with 7500rpm. Otherwise if you just really want the shorter b16 1-4 for the street then go for it! 👍
If you don’t have it you will need the LS 5th gear/ reverse shift fork as well.
Love this Kind of content love it again !! Keep it up !! Thank for this entertainement !!
You need to cool the stainless steel by using tapping oil otherwise it will harden from the heat
Drilling stainlees steel need lubrication, dry does not cut and burn all yours driling bits 😉
😂 Wait what? Go Autoworks also makes turbo kits for D-series ? Your welcome 😂
Nice build guys.
On track use with smaller radiator , ac condenser and intercooler the coolant gonna overheat.
One of the few car channels I can still watch! Awesome work guys.
Screamer pipe, THUG LIFE! SEND IT!