Before the track video gets filmed can we start a petition to make a TMP lap time leaderboard in your shop, Top Gear style? You predict and talk about dyno numbers, but real world results are what matters. Like if you agree.
Been following you since the early 911 turbo videos. One of, if not the best car channel on RUclips and motivate me to work on my own 911 and Honda civic. Keep up the strong work with the channel!
The oil temp and pressure sensor needs a piece of flex line and mounted on the firewall or somewhere else with a rubber grommet.Mounting it like you did will eventually faill from the engine vibrations and break.Never mount it directly onto the block ,specially with added adapters and sensors. There are remote oil sensor kits available .The temp difference on that short piece of line is non existing.Ideally your temp sensor should be mounted in the oil pan. The back of the block always reads higher temp because it gets heat soaked.
Back in 2011, drove my 95 hatch through Hamilton to the recruitment center from Saint Catharines. It was summer and with it being a CX with no AC... I got to taste the industrial area 😂
The internet is correct, that coolant line behind the turbo and manifold will get cooked. Silicone covered fiberglass sleeves will crumble. There’s a reason I welded a bung on the water crossover tube. Also, those radiator zip ties will make the radiator sag and damage the radiator. Get some 18 gauge aluminum and bend up a shroud. You will be glad you did and it’s a cool project for more content 👍🏼
Those MPG numbers are inflated, the EPA has changed how the mileage is determined, with one of the changes being the car has to be driven with the AC system running. Highway was tested at a constant 55mph with no inclines. City was done with minimal acceleration from stopped, as well as only going up to IIRC 30mph with the most efficient use of the manual shifting. This made it very very easy for the manufacturers to manipulate the MPG ratings. Today's testing is done in more real world conditions.
I used an oil filter sandwich plate for my oil feed, oil pressure etc. just thread the oil pressure switch back in and take your oil feed etc from the sandwich.
Fan shroud ducting to mount the fan to on the back of the rad. Ducting to direct the air flow through the intercooler and ducting to stop the air escaping from between the various radiators. If you don't do this, you WILL end up with cooling issues when the ambient temperature is high. Been there, done that.
To solve the leverage issue with the oil pressure/temperature sensors, you could always install an oil cooler/vtec conversion sandwich plate that has ports in it for sensors. An oil cooler might not be a half bad idea with a turbo car.
Engine bay is coming together beautifully! I mean if you're going to modify a clean example of one of these golden era cars these days then this is how it should be done!
For the oil feed, do a 1/8bsp to 4an/jic straight off the block, short braided line to a tee for the sensor, bracket off the block. Something simple like a p clamp around the hex portion of the sensor. You might need to come up with something better than that, but that's what I'd try first. Then the rest of the feed to the turbo. That should relieve all the stress off the fittings, and a short run of a few inches shouldn't affect oil temp readings. I've been using these bosch pst-f1 sensors for a few years now without fault. They're awesome. Great for fuel and even coolant.
Just sold my b18b non vtec turbo build last year and i ran oil pressure/temp sensor same place with a bpst adapter never had a leak or issue in readings. Ran a sandwich plate on the filter for turbo feed also no leaks no issues at all.
I bought my 00 accord from original owner last year and guy went all out with every single receipt and even gas mileage records! Gotta love people like that
Love this build. My first Honda was an LS Integra that I kept all motor but built a head for. I got as far as owning the components to go turbo and changed my mind, it’s fun to see this one come together.
Loving this build as a turbo honda owner myself. Just a heads up though, you installed the Honed fuel pump antisurge kit incorrectly. The slotted section is for the hanger to go through it.
I would ditch the oil tee and use an oil filter sandwich plate which typically have NPT ports for feeding turbos or the head in VTEC conversions. Bonus the oil supplied would be filtered.
The Aluminum BSPT fitting is more ideal when screwing into the block than a steel fitting at that port. The ideal alternative is to use the Golden Eagle (filtered oil) sandwich plate...or some othersandwich plate. Great work
LOL ALL of those headgaskets were done because of the d15 with no headstuds. lmao. The B18 needs ARP rod bolts and adjustable cam gears if you want to run higher boost in the top end (7000+). Your plan to use a larger turbo in order to raise the boost threshold is sound, but once the turbo spools it will need more cam overlap to flow enough air mass. If you are runnnng a hood exit exhaust then disregard. But if you plan on using a real exhaust system then you need to dial the cams in to get the best knock resistance. These are some of the best engines to boost.
Man this EG is looking fresh!😍🔥👌🏼 That EF is so beautiful! Love both builds but if I had to choose, I'd go with the EG just because parts are still easy to find
SPEED ACADEMY!!!!.... I just want to warn you the EG hood doesn't clear the drivers side tank of the Koyo radiator. I had to clearance my hood with a socket and hammer to keep it from making the typical nasty gash. If you look at pics online you'll see every Koyo install in an EG has a nasty scar on the front edge just left (drivers) of the radiator cap. Koyo recently added the sloped face to passengers side upper tank to finally properly fit the EK, but completely neglected the fail-fitment in the drivers side for the EG. Cant believe this radiator has been on the market for almost 30 years and was never updated to fit its most popular application. Good luck!
Love the honda content, your 1 of the only channels I watch the whole video and don't skip any of it and I'm always excited for you to upload a new video every Saturday. I wish there was 2 videos a week but owel 1 video is fine.
Love your work as always. I prefer the old valve cover! That look as some history behind it, like the Italian twin cam units of old. Either way, great job.
Use hydraulic fittings. Steel BSP adapters are common. Use a BSP adapter and a run tee. On my Miata I use a BSP to JIC (works with AN fittings) and a JIC run tee.
I tapped into that oil pressure sensor port for my D16 CRX back in the day for a PSI gauge. I ended up remote mounting the whole deal onto the firewall using a flex line.
My hatch has blew 3 d series motors and they wasn't even driven hard.. but the ls has been amazing. I have a j 6mt swap I've been thinking about swapping in it
Can confirm... salty Minneapolis roads do a number on our cars. Makes it much harder for the amateur mechanic to do any job under the car or with suspensions.
We just outfitted our labs with the Mk4 Prusa printers, but this is on my list of wants for next year. Great video dude, I think we need an automotive video next using it!
Spal fans, any fan, is super loud and not very efficient when you mount it direct to radiator. Simply adding a shroud that moves it away 1/2" makes a huge difference.
Those Bosch temp/pressure sensors does not like to be mounted directly on the engine. Those are recommended to remote mount on a bracket. It’s because of vibrations from the engine.
I love the looks of the black piping too. It’s looking very nice. You guys don’t typically do this, but I wonder what the fuel economy will be with all of these upgrades?
I think the info in your video for the turbo water lines is incorrect. The cold water is at the bottom of the radiator so that should be your feed. The adapter to the frost plug is the return where your hot water from the turbo enters the block and flows upwards to the head and eventually back out to the top of the radiator.
Funny, I've always preferred the older B18B valve cover design because it reminds me of the ones used on the RA16 F1 engine. The revised one always looked boring to me in comparison.
@speedacademy Also, l, love what you're doing with the non vtec platform. They're just as reliable, if not more than it's vtec headed brother ...lol... I can't wait to see the outcome
i own a Acura rsx typr S 2003 and i live in Québec , mannn its so hard to find a clean dc5 below 15k its crazy ! bought mine for 6500 in 2021 , and i love it ! but too much rust
When i was running a water cooled turbo, if i remember correctly, i was using the coolant that normally goes to the throttle body/iacv? I dunno, it was like 20 years ago
Chicago, WIsconsin, Twin Cities... real nasty salted and sanded cars from the winters. I've literally seen trucks that the frames have rusted in half...
Before the track video gets filmed can we start a petition to make a TMP lap time leaderboard in your shop, Top Gear style? You predict and talk about dyno numbers, but real world results are what matters. Like if you agree.
100% agree!
Yes please
Completely agree
Nice idea 👌
New England and rust go hand in hand. Ocean salt, road salt, margarita salt, bath salt, it never ends. Everything has rust.
Margarita salt 🤣
🤣🤣🤣You aint wrong
*Cries in NJ*
⁹tu I'm@@Bxudĥ😢 0:00 😢67⁷6th 89th is my lot 😮
Rhode islander here, I can agree it's pretty bad
The new rocker cover gives me Rover K series and Ford Duratec vibes. I would have kept the old one.
Been following you since the early 911 turbo videos. One of, if not the best car channel on RUclips and motivate me to work on my own 911 and Honda civic. Keep up the strong work with the channel!
The oil temp and pressure sensor needs a piece of flex line and mounted on the firewall or somewhere else with a rubber grommet.Mounting it like you did will eventually faill from the engine vibrations and break.Never mount it directly onto the block ,specially with added adapters and sensors.
There are remote oil sensor kits available .The temp difference on that short piece of line is non existing.Ideally your temp sensor should be mounted in the oil pan.
The back of the block always reads higher temp because it gets heat soaked.
Mentioning that "sales" price reminds me of my EG Civic sedan that had a declared sales tax value of $0.01. I still have the ServiceOntario receipt.
I kinda like the older valve cover better
Back in 2011, drove my 95 hatch through Hamilton to the recruitment center from Saint Catharines. It was summer and with it being a CX with no AC... I got to taste the industrial area 😂
The internet is correct, that coolant line behind the turbo and manifold will get cooked. Silicone covered fiberglass sleeves will crumble. There’s a reason I welded a bung on the water crossover tube.
Also, those radiator zip ties will make the radiator sag and damage the radiator. Get some 18 gauge aluminum and bend up a shroud. You will be glad you did and it’s a cool project for more content 👍🏼
Use a sandwich plate on the oil filter and mount the line and oil pressure sensor on the plate
Run a lsvtec sandwich plate for you oil pressure line
Second Valve cover does look better!! Once again you guys are OEMplus Academy , love it
The golden eagle sandwich plate would be a solution to your turbo feed line
Those MPG numbers are inflated, the EPA has changed how the mileage is determined, with one of the changes being the car has to be driven with the AC system running. Highway was tested at a constant 55mph with no inclines. City was done with minimal acceleration from stopped, as well as only going up to IIRC 30mph with the most efficient use of the manual shifting. This made it very very easy for the manufacturers to manipulate the MPG ratings. Today's testing is done in more real world conditions.
I used an oil filter sandwich plate for my oil feed, oil pressure etc. just thread the oil pressure switch back in and take your oil feed etc from the sandwich.
Fan shroud ducting to mount the fan to on the back of the rad. Ducting to direct the air flow through the intercooler and ducting to stop the air escaping from between the various radiators.
If you don't do this, you WILL end up with cooling issues when the ambient temperature is high.
Been there, done that.
To solve the leverage issue with the oil pressure/temperature sensors, you could always install an oil cooler/vtec conversion sandwich plate that has ports in it for sensors. An oil cooler might not be a half bad idea with a turbo car.
Engine bay is coming together beautifully! I mean if you're going to modify a clean example of one of these golden era cars these days then this is how it should be done!
Radium products are simply amazing.
For the oil feed, do a 1/8bsp to 4an/jic straight off the block, short braided line to a tee for the sensor, bracket off the block. Something simple like a p clamp around the hex portion of the sensor. You might need to come up with something better than that, but that's what I'd try first. Then the rest of the feed to the turbo. That should relieve all the stress off the fittings, and a short run of a few inches shouldn't affect oil temp readings. I've been using these bosch pst-f1 sensors for a few years now without fault. They're awesome. Great for fuel and even coolant.
Dont use the oil temp/pressure sensor. They leak and break. Look up the failure rate on them
Just sold my b18b non vtec turbo build last year and i ran oil pressure/temp sensor same place with a bpst adapter never had a leak or issue in readings. Ran a sandwich plate on the filter for turbo feed also no leaks no issues at all.
so stoked for the first startup!!!
I bought my 00 accord from original owner last year and guy went all out with every single receipt and even gas mileage records! Gotta love people like that
Love this build. My first Honda was an LS Integra that I kept all motor but built a head for. I got as far as owning the components to go turbo and changed my mind, it’s fun to see this one come together.
this guy is the definition of measure once cut twice
Loving this build as a turbo honda owner myself. Just a heads up though, you installed the Honed fuel pump antisurge kit incorrectly. The slotted section is for the hanger to go through it.
Glad to see Pete getting better at welding. For more practice, please brace the intake.
You guys need and oil filler sandwich plate!
I would ditch the oil tee and use an oil filter sandwich plate which typically have NPT ports for feeding turbos or the head in VTEC conversions. Bonus the oil supplied would be filtered.
Tractuff fitting with a remote mount line. Those T break off the block
Excited to see this rip!
Not sure if the coolant is going to keep circulating in the block instead of going through the radiator to cool it down. But i might be wrong🙆🏽♂️
The Aluminum BSPT fitting is more ideal when screwing into the block than a steel fitting at that port. The ideal alternative is to use the Golden Eagle (filtered oil) sandwich plate...or some othersandwich plate.
Great work
Keep the content up guys. Love the videos.
LOL ALL of those headgaskets were done because of the d15 with no headstuds. lmao. The B18 needs ARP rod bolts and adjustable cam gears if you want to run higher boost in the top end (7000+). Your plan to use a larger turbo in order to raise the boost threshold is sound, but once the turbo spools it will need more cam overlap to flow enough air mass. If you are runnnng a hood exit exhaust then disregard. But if you plan on using a real exhaust system then you need to dial the cams in to get the best knock resistance. These are some of the best engines to boost.
Use the Acquity cube for the oil feed/sensor. absolute solid piece!
The valve cover is a nice subtle touch.👌🏻
Waiting for my turbo kit from Go-Autoworks to ship for my B18C EG Hatch! My first project car and I cant wait, this was my high school dream car!
I'll say it in every video. Underrated content.
Amazing work, love watching you guys.
Pretty sure you want the turbo coolant return at the top of the radiator, not bottom. Hot return from the engine also at the top.
TracTuff! Rob has the fitting you need.
I love you guys and truly don't understand how you dont have Over a million subscribers.
All you need to do is run a oil filter sandwich plate
Man this EG is looking fresh!😍🔥👌🏼 That EF is so beautiful! Love both builds but if I had to choose, I'd go with the EG just because parts are still easy to find
SPEED ACADEMY!!!!.... I just want to warn you the EG hood doesn't clear the drivers side tank of the Koyo radiator. I had to clearance my hood with a socket and hammer to keep it from making the typical nasty gash. If you look at pics online you'll see every Koyo install in an EG has a nasty scar on the front edge just left (drivers) of the radiator cap. Koyo recently added the sloped face to passengers side upper tank to finally properly fit the EK, but completely neglected the fail-fitment in the drivers side for the EG. Cant believe this radiator has been on the market for almost 30 years and was never updated to fit its most popular application. Good luck!
Love the honda content, your 1 of the only channels I watch the whole video and don't skip any of it and I'm always excited for you to upload a new video every Saturday. I wish there was 2 videos a week but owel 1 video is fine.
Ktuned makes a nice multi port oil fitting adapter
KTD-OPS-AD3
I'd remote mount the oil press/temp sensor. Progress is looking good!
Love your work as always. I prefer the old valve cover! That look as some history behind it, like the Italian twin cam units of old. Either way, great job.
Cant wait to see this fire up for the first time.
Thanks! Another great blend of info and entertainment. I can’t wait to see the end result.
Great job Peter engine bay looks awesome ! Can’t wait to hear the engine! Love all the black inside the engine compartment! Keep up the great videos
Love the Honda content. Out East in America the RUST and road Salt in winter is RUTHLESS!!! It eats cars alive!!!!!
Man, just get an oil filter sandwich and call it a day, you wont have studf hangine off the block and waiting to snap off and its cleaner too
Use hydraulic fittings. Steel BSP adapters are common. Use a BSP adapter and a run tee. On my Miata I use a BSP to JIC (works with AN fittings) and a JIC run tee.
I really hate that yall don’t get the love you deserve.
I really, really like your videos, guys. Thanks for all the effort.
Next series should definitely be a Honda Fit build off
I tapped into that oil pressure sensor port for my D16 CRX back in the day for a PSI gauge. I ended up remote mounting the whole deal onto the firewall using a flex line.
My hatch has blew 3 d series motors and they wasn't even driven hard.. but the ls has been amazing. I have a j 6mt swap I've been thinking about swapping in it
The composite d15 head gaskets were so prone to failure especially in warmer climates.
Use the stainless steel 1/8 bsp oil pressure adaptor that screws right up against block with a washer
That bolt kit is sick... hoping they do Subaru soon.
I feel your pain New Jersey is just as bad with winter and rusty cars lol. I had to scrap my 96 Integra because of rust, was a very sad day.
Can confirm... salty Minneapolis roads do a number on our cars. Makes it much harder for the amateur mechanic to do any job under the car or with suspensions.
Man I’m ready to hear it fire up!! You guys can easily make 300 to 350whp on this stock motor
i always use the 1/8 npt when i turbo my honda/acura and had no problems
We just outfitted our labs with the Mk4 Prusa printers, but this is on my list of wants for next year. Great video dude, I think we need an automotive video next using it!
Spal fans, any fan, is super loud and not very efficient when you mount it direct to radiator. Simply adding a shroud that moves it away 1/2" makes a huge difference.
Those Bosch temp/pressure sensors does not like to be mounted directly on the engine. Those are recommended to remote mount on a bracket. It’s because of vibrations from the engine.
I love the looks of the black piping too. It’s looking very nice. You guys don’t typically do this, but I wonder what the fuel economy will be with all of these upgrades?
In lieu of the fitting, a piece of strap as a support bracket would be a good interim solution.
Looking & sounding great!
Lemon juice does a great job of getting the gas smell off your hands.
Maybe bolt on a bracket of some sort onto the block near the oil pressure sensor to support the weight??? Maybe
Woot! Woot! Said the turb....oh, wait, that is choo choo!
Either way, this is AWESOME!
Love your videos..hello from bosnia and herzegovina
I would be cool to 3D print a heat shield or scoop to keep the hot air away from the intake.
I think the info in your video for the turbo water lines is incorrect. The cold water is at the bottom of the radiator so that should be your feed. The adapter to the frost plug is the return where your hot water from the turbo enters the block and flows upwards to the head and eventually back out to the top of the radiator.
i like the old valve cover better
It's definitely a 9 out of 10 bad for rust here in New Hampshire. And Maine is terrible too.
Funny, I've always preferred the older B18B valve cover design because it reminds me of the ones used on the RA16 F1 engine. The revised one always looked boring to me in comparison.
Man, if you only knew that the Eg civic have a drain bolt at the bottom of the gas tank...oh well, you still got it done and out
We did but had the pump out so it was the cleaner and easier method
@speedacademy Also, l, love what you're doing with the non vtec platform. They're just as reliable, if not more than it's vtec headed brother ...lol... I can't wait to see the outcome
Try supporting the oil union with a tab and an existing bolt hole....
So happy you guys are building these Hondas. Basically our generation of hot rods 😂 can’t wait to see these things screaming at tmp
Loving the series guys!!
I use that same hose plier on my 1990 integra gas line and surly I broke the gas line since it was rusted 😂
At 13:02 Pete was gonna drop the f bomb 😂
i own a Acura rsx typr S 2003 and i live in Québec , mannn its so hard to find a clean dc5 below 15k its crazy ! bought mine for 6500 in 2021 , and i love it ! but too much rust
iTunes make a BSP stainless fitting with 1/8” NPT ports for that oil set up
For oil feed why not run it off a golden eagle oil sandwich plate, I’ve my setup that way for 6 years no issue.
Would have been nice to see you try squeezing AC as well.
Watter wetter in the radiator and the other fan is fine i know i have it on mine its great 6:42
yeah are gonna have to get a powdercoat oven in there
When i was running a water cooled turbo, if i remember correctly, i was using the coolant that normally goes to the throttle body/iacv? I dunno, it was like 20 years ago
Was looking to see how you manage to fully install the AC in the car
Looks like the deck needs to be machined. Wonder if over heating warped the head causing blown HGs
Chicago, WIsconsin, Twin Cities... real nasty salted and sanded cars from the winters. I've literally seen trucks that the frames have rusted in half...
I wouldn't mount that fan with those mounts... daily drive it for a while like that and you'll see why