Yoooo, your intake side cam gear spun when you torqued it down, how were you able to match the timing marks up when it moved ? Check your timing dudeeee
Felpro multi layer oil pan gasket is what you need. Can get it from the parts stores for around $40. Has two rubber layers with a layer of metal in the middle. They are a game changer for sealing oil pans!
@@majinrvby felpro is trash, except for their multi layer oil pan gasket. I swear by oem gaskets and seals, but nothing beats felpro's multi layer oil pan gasket
🤘 tip for the rear crankshaft seal, install the housing with the new seal in it. To ensure when the housing is tightened that the seal is centered onto the crankshaft. you can even spin the crank while its being tightened. smacking a new seal into the housing can cause the little spring to pop out and you wont see it with it already on the block.
Such an amazing video John! We have been looking forward to this moment for over a year. I am so proud of you and all the hard work you have put into not only the EG build, but your channel, and all the other cars in between. I am extremely excited to see you rip it and looking forward to these crazy adventures ahead! I love you.
Love it man! Keep up the hard work!! This def helps motivate me to finish building the css b18 sitting in my garage and swap out the turbo b20v. With prices up on everything i just been waiting patiently.
I am currently building my lsv motor in my garage as well! Literally waiting to put it together and after watching this, I’m starting tomorrow😂 definitely subbing after watching this nice content man
Use a torque wrench. So easy to over tighten bolts which just squishes the gasket for leaks. When using Honda bond. Snug it up and let it sit and dry, then fully torque it down.
@@boosted_john I want to do pretty much what you’re up to 90s Honda Power goal 600 b series (full build) Big turbo.. You know the drill Currently driving a big turbo Veloster N but wanna sell it and get a “normal” car and then do a fun car … big turbo car as only car is kinda sketchy. It’s like … ok.. is today the day … eek 😱 I don’t know if I wanna buy a built long block but after seeing your vids maube a built short block so I can do some of it myself. I’ve never buolt a motor before. I got mad respect when I saw u tackle this and the prior builds with zero experience at this shit. What is your background? How did u get the wiring sorted? I’ll prolly do this in the winter It’s time for riding now. And I gotta wait for some money to show up I do see built cars alreay but it’s not as enticing. I want to do some of the work. Not gonna lie tho bro… nervous it’ll be another half assed car listed for sale that someone didjt finish. I think realistic expectations on a timeline would be important.. seems like “oh ok it’ll take a few days …” Yea no . Prob a year
Yooo john, you don't know how much it encourages me to see that you have uploaded a new video, this just clears my head and helps me a lot especially now that I am going through difficult times, just thanks! and full support from Venezuela my friend, a big hug!!!!
Your exhaust cam moved dude you didn't tighten your bolts,...look up degreeing your cam to get the most out of those type of cam gears you won't regret it
If you bolt your oil pan on like that, I'm not surprised it leaks. You should try torqueing them in an opposing pattern to evenly press down on that gasket. You torqued it from what looked like 1 after the next all the way around.
Looking real good man! You have been motivating me and reminding me of some little parts and things I have overlooked. I can't wait to get my engine together. Very similar build to yours
Help! It’s my first time building my b18b1 with gsr head. What good but inexpensive parts should I get to rebuild the head? I’m running all motor and stock ecu. I’m trying to get the most power without having codes or any check engine light due to emissions unfortunately. Lmk
oem everything 1) honda has millions of hours in r&d with the best power per liter / bang for buck w/ reliability to boot 2) STOCK ECU no point in changing anything while rebuilding head (increase flow change lift/duration) that your computer cant account for let alone make the most of. more air more fuel w/ well timed spark for complete burn is what makes power stock ecu will "think" more air or more fuel means something is wrong vs ability to tune ecu for proper a/f ratio and ignition for additional air plus fuel
@Boostedjohn I may have missed it but I'm curious if I was to get a LS block (b18b1) would I be able to marry it to a B18c1 head. Bstock block came out of a non VTech but the head is VTech. From my understanding I would just need to get a gsr oil pan?? True?? Thanks
John did you have the pistons at mid-cylinder when you torqued down the cams? Always been curious how guys don’t hit valves on pistons when torquing cams and at TDC.
It’s called copper spray. It’s a high temp gasket maker kinda. Used it on the head gasket since LS VTEC is notorious for leaking from the corner of the head gasket by the trans.
lol first time i see someone painting a head gasket, also you dont have to put hondabond with the rubber seal on the older hondas oil pans more chance for leaking, otherwise nice video :D
Man honestly I redid my civic's oil pan gasket like 10 times and ended up with leaks every single time, very interested to see what happens with your sealant all around. My integra gasket took me 3 tries but finally got it to seal even with breaking a bolt -- not going to touch that until I really have to hahaha don't wanna mess up a good thing. Sweet build though brother, love the VC color!!! Be well fam
@@boosted_john I used a very thin layer of hondabond then let it set up for a few minutes then wiped it damn near flat. Other than that I switched from the rubber only gaskets to the blue felpro molded rubber with metal gasket. I honestly think it was just dumb luck. I was at the end of my rope though man, hoping yours holds up this time!
@@TunerThings @Boosted John guys cant stress this enough you need fel pro OS 30630 T. hondabond or any other sealant is only making it worse even more so if not torqued properly. im even running after market moroso pan which is known to not be perfectly flat with fel pro permadry plus and hondabond only in the correct spots no leaks even reusing multiple times. here is from speedfactory they use the same gasket on the fastest FWD & AWD civic in the world. " As with any engine, leaks can develop as time and miles go by. The oil pan gasket is a common leak found on the B series engines - unfortunately, many owners or shops may try to tighten the oil pan bolts to stop the leak. This makes matters worse, as the oil pan on these engines have raised dimples that are stamped in the flange to prevent over compression of the gasket on the assembly line. By tightening the bolts beyond the original torque specification, these dimples can be crushed and the oil pan sealing flange can deform, creating leak paths and will resulting in an even worse leak! At this point, the OE-style oil pan gasket design will no longer work, because it relies on the correct formed dimples to prevent over compression of the gasket. In this case, there are two options - replace the pan at over $100, or install the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket - OS 30630 T. Unlike OE-style gaskets for these engines - including many sold within the aftermarket - the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket features a rigid, steel-core construction and built in torque limiters that prevent over-compression of the gasket and overtorquing of the oil pan bolts, FYI - Installation TipThe OE gasket does have two compression limiters molded into it - they can be found only on the transmission side of the pan. When removing the old gasket, these limiters can be left behind, stuck to the pan. If these limiters are left in place, the limiters built into the Fel-Pro gasket will stack on top of them and result in an oil leak. Be sure to inspect and remove them when cleaning the flange. Like every Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus gasket, the OS 30630 T must be installed on clean and dry sealing surfaces, with NO sealers, adhesives, or RTV applied to the gasket. The repair manual replacement procedure instructions should be followed for this gasket, as with all Fel-Pro gaskets unless otherwise noted. As directed by the repair manual for these applications, there are 4 areas on the engine block where RTV must be applied - the two joints created by the oil pump and the two joints created by the right side cover. RTV is needed at these points because the components coming together creates a joint which no gasket can “flow” into. A little bit of RTV will get on the gasket when the gasket and pan are placed on the block, which is ok as long as RTV is not applied ANYWHERE ELSE. Fel-Pro oil pan Snap-Ups® are included with the set and are a clean, simple and effective way to speed up the oil pan gasket installation. Simply thread them into the block where the oil pan bolts go, snap the oil pan gasket in place, then the pan itself and start threading the bolts in. Once the oil pan is secure, the Snap-Ups are easily removed and are reusable.
@@boosted_john guys cant stress this enough you need fel pro OS 30630 T. hondabond or any other sealant is only making it worse even more so if not torqued properly. im even running after market moroso pan which is known to not be perfectly flat with fel pro permadry plus and hondabond only in the correct spots no leaks even reusing multiple times. here is from speedfactory they use the same gasket on the fastest FWD & AWD civic in the world. " As with any engine, leaks can develop as time and miles go by. The oil pan gasket is a common leak found on the B series engines - unfortunately, many owners or shops may try to tighten the oil pan bolts to stop the leak. This makes matters worse, as the oil pan on these engines have raised dimples that are stamped in the flange to prevent over compression of the gasket on the assembly line. By tightening the bolts beyond the original torque specification, these dimples can be crushed and the oil pan sealing flange can deform, creating leak paths and will resulting in an even worse leak! At this point, the OE-style oil pan gasket design will no longer work, because it relies on the correct formed dimples to prevent over compression of the gasket. In this case, there are two options - replace the pan at over $100, or install the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket - OS 30630 T. Unlike OE-style gaskets for these engines - including many sold within the aftermarket - the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket features a rigid, steel-core construction and built in torque limiters that prevent over-compression of the gasket and overtorquing of the oil pan bolts, FYI - Installation TipThe OE gasket does have two compression limiters molded into it - they can be found only on the transmission side of the pan. When removing the old gasket, these limiters can be left behind, stuck to the pan. If these limiters are left in place, the limiters built into the Fel-Pro gasket will stack on top of them and result in an oil leak. Be sure to inspect and remove them when cleaning the flange. Like every Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus gasket, the OS 30630 T must be installed on clean and dry sealing surfaces, with NO sealers, adhesives, or RTV applied to the gasket. The repair manual replacement procedure instructions should be followed for this gasket, as with all Fel-Pro gaskets unless otherwise noted. As directed by the repair manual for these applications, there are 4 areas on the engine block where RTV must be applied - the two joints created by the oil pump and the two joints created by the right side cover. RTV is needed at these points because the components coming together creates a joint which no gasket can “flow” into. A little bit of RTV will get on the gasket when the gasket and pan are placed on the block, which is ok as long as RTV is not applied ANYWHERE ELSE. Fel-Pro oil pan Snap-Ups® are included with the set and are a clean, simple and effective way to speed up the oil pan gasket installation. Simply thread them into the block where the oil pan bolts go, snap the oil pan gasket in place, then the pan itself and start threading the bolts in. Once the oil pan is secure, the Snap-Ups are easily removed and are reusable.
John is you fault I got a old acura integra 1998 but has little rust and is crash has only 67,000 miles 2 owners should I restore it or take it apart what you recommend?
Where those can gears adjusted it looks it? I’d not Shame on Sk2 charges over 200 bucks for those cam gear to give someone a defective one is typical eBay shenanigans. Nice vid very proper-
This was a little sloppy, bet you went back to the cam seals after installing the sprockets since the cam seals were left hanging there and not pushed in all the way lol
LS means that the bottom end came from an Integra LS. It’s a 1.8L motor that does NOT have VTEC. So you take this LS bottom end and put a VTEC head on it to gain the low end torque of the LS engine and the top end power of VTEC. LS VTEC
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m so excited to finally have the EG back on the channel. Get ready for some seriously sick shit bois 😎
www.blownmotorclub.com
Boosted John Merch^ 🥰
Yoooo, your intake side cam gear spun when you torqued it down, how were you able to match the timing marks up when it moved ? Check your timing dudeeee
And stop putting your spark plugs in with an impact!!! 😫😫😫😫😫😫
@@204_mod_shop i was just about to comment that
It didn't look like you set the Cam gears to top dead center before removing them. D:
Felpro multi layer oil pan gasket is what you need. Can get it from the parts stores for around $40. Has two rubber layers with a layer of metal in the middle. They are a game changer for sealing oil pans!
I’m 100% trying that next. It still leaks :/
@@boosted_john try only using only 20 or 15 ft lbs on the bolts. rubber gaskets blow out at higher bolt tension...
felpro is trash oem is mahle.
@@majinrvby felpro is trash, except for their multi layer oil pan gasket. I swear by oem gaskets and seals, but nothing beats felpro's multi layer oil pan gasket
when you put the gear on the intake camshaft, the tuning moved when you tightened the bolt, nice job
;)
Thanks for the heads up. I ended up swapping to some stock cam gears.
Saw it to I was like shitt bouta blow up
🤘 tip for the rear crankshaft seal, install the housing with the new seal in it. To ensure when the housing is tightened that the seal is centered onto the crankshaft. you can even spin the crank while its being tightened. smacking a new seal into the housing can cause the little spring to pop out and you wont see it with it already on the block.
Such an amazing video John! We have been looking forward to this moment for over a year. I am so proud of you and all the hard work you have put into not only the EG build, but your channel, and all the other cars in between. I am extremely excited to see you rip it and looking forward to these crazy adventures ahead! I love you.
Love you bae. Let’s keep crushing it ❤️
@Boosted John don't sleep on that ring, not talking about piston rings this time.
Can girlfriends be this chill and supportive? Is this real? Am I being punk'd?
Your intake cam moved as you torqued down the bolt. Go back and make sure it's zero'd out again cuz it 100% jumped
It did jump I watched it it’s not zero
If the motor blew we now know why 😂
Dang dude, I bet the purple is even better in person!
19:22 I hope you saw at editing the cam gears ajusted theselfs
Great video and super satisfying to watch. Can't wait to see it in the car and on the dyno. Keep up the great work!
no other youtuber has such engine building quality like you john!
Um, PFI? BoostedBoys? American Garage? Young Static? There's others out there to.
Nice job John and special guest
Joe E! I love the color! 👍👍👍 LY 🥰
Thanks mom! LY
Damn! After all that RTV you may not need a rear main seal anymore!
Running an OEM Honda oil pan gaskets hasn’t leaked on me sir!
Love it man! Keep up the hard work!! This def helps motivate me to finish building the css b18 sitting in my garage and swap out the turbo b20v. With prices up on everything i just been waiting patiently.
Ayyy! CSS gang 🤙🏼
That smell is so satisfying, I just got my b18b1 back from the machine shop, and it smells amazing.
THE DAY HAS COME!!!!!
What a beautiful build! Nice work!
Thanks Stuart!
I am currently building my lsv motor in my garage as well! Literally waiting to put it together and after watching this, I’m starting tomorrow😂 definitely subbing after watching this nice content man
Dude I actually can’t wait
Awesome work man you keep me stoked with your EG and it helps push me to build mine. Try to keep those axles intact once you make all the power. 😂
Comments like this make me happy. Keep pushing bro 🤙🏼
I erased my last comment to say VALVE COVER SWAGG GAME IS SICKKK!
Can you do a write up of all the things done to your block now? Like pistons, what rods, did you get the bore increased, new piston gap etc
I’ll try to gather all info and post it somewhere.
Did you ever post this?
Use a torque wrench. So easy to over tighten bolts which just squishes the gasket for leaks. When using Honda bond. Snug it up and let it sit and dry, then fully torque it down.
Your videos make me so happy! Keep up the good work!
Cleanest engine build ever. 👌🏼
EXCELLENT video.👍🏻
Dude this video was perfect for someone like me! Much appreciated man!!
Looking good brother! Looking forward to seeing her up and running.
@19:27 your intake cam gear moved when you tightened it , double check that sprocket Jon plz .
This looks so enjoyable to do.
Can’t wait to start on mine hopefully later this year
It was fun! A bit annoying when I forgot the head alignment dowels, but otherwise great time.
What are you building?
@@boosted_john I want to do pretty much what you’re up to
90s Honda
Power goal 600
b series (full build)
Big turbo..
You know the drill
Currently driving a big turbo Veloster N but wanna sell it and get a “normal” car and then do a fun car … big turbo car as only car is kinda sketchy. It’s like … ok.. is today the day … eek 😱
I don’t know if I wanna buy a built long block but after seeing your vids maube a built short block so I can do some of it myself. I’ve never buolt a motor before. I got mad respect when I saw u tackle this and the prior builds with zero experience at this shit. What is your background? How did u get the wiring sorted?
I’ll prolly do this in the winter
It’s time for riding now.
And I gotta wait for some money to show up
I do see built cars alreay but it’s not as enticing. I want to do some of the work. Not gonna lie tho bro… nervous it’ll be another half assed car listed for sale that someone didjt finish. I think realistic expectations on a timeline would be important.. seems like “oh ok it’ll take a few days …”
Yea no . Prob a year
@@geraldgoodiii6993 any updates? you end up doing that build?
Oil Pan gasket. Use the felpro gasket that has the metal center bondod into it and the pan gasket will never leak again
said the same thing
Yooo john, you don't know how much it encourages me to see that you have uploaded a new video, this just clears my head and helps me a lot especially now that I am going through difficult times, just thanks! and full support from Venezuela my friend, a big hug!!!!
Love this video, well put together sir.
Satisfying for sure😩
Chu papi muneño 😩
Can’t wait to see this thing running 👍
It’s running and the video just went live! Check it out!
That's badass brother, can wait for head to return from the machine shop..great job
Nice to see it. Hopefully I'll be doing a similar build later this year but with no vtec. Already got a b20 turbo.
Check back the cam gears
It shifted when you were tightening the cam gear bolts
Ended up swapping some stock ones on later.
Very nice turbo engine.🤘👍👍👍
Thank you!
Your exhaust cam moved dude you didn't tighten your bolts,...look up degreeing your cam to get the most out of those type of cam gears you won't regret it
If you bolt your oil pan on like that, I'm not surprised it leaks. You should try torqueing them in an opposing pattern to evenly press down on that gasket. You torqued it from what looked like 1 after the next all the way around.
You have me exited to finish my build 😩 I’m going for a useable 300-450
such a great video! Learnt alot from this as I am a beginner
Looking real good man! You have been motivating me and reminding me of some little parts and things I have overlooked. I can't wait to get my engine together. Very similar build to yours
can't wait to see it run, but damn, how long have you been waiting for this motor?? seemed like a while LOL
It was almost exactly a year!
@DJkirakira I can’t do the giveaway right now due to working a full time job. I have not forgotten about it tho.
Subbed because I’m in the process of assembling my b18c5 motor so I’m here to learn from you lol.
have you tried the oil pan gasket without any sealers at all? like JUST the gasket itself? because that has always worked for me...
Just have to say ! Love the glasses bro. Keep it real !!!
Why would you want a thick headgasket and what pistons should i get if i was building a engine for street and occasionally track.
Help! It’s my first time building my b18b1 with gsr head. What good but inexpensive parts should I get to rebuild the head? I’m running all motor and stock ecu. I’m trying to get the most power without having codes or any check engine light due to emissions unfortunately. Lmk
oem everything 1) honda has millions of hours in r&d with the best power per liter / bang for buck w/ reliability to boot 2) STOCK ECU no point in changing anything while rebuilding head (increase flow change lift/duration) that your computer cant account for let alone make the most of. more air more fuel w/ well timed spark for complete burn is what makes power stock ecu will "think" more air or more fuel means something is wrong vs ability to tune ecu for proper a/f ratio and ignition for additional air plus fuel
Did css put your block all together with crank, rods, and pistons?? Do you send them your choice of parts and have them install it??
@Boostedjohn I may have missed it but I'm curious if I was to get a LS block (b18b1) would I be able to marry it to a B18c1 head. Bstock block came out of a non VTech but the head is VTech. From my understanding I would just need to get a gsr oil pan?? True?? Thanks
Very nice 👌
That thing is awesome i going to need help with mine.. maybe you can give me some advice knowledge
bro get a FEL-PRO OS30630T OIL PAN GASKET not only wont leak but reusable all the b series turbo OG's know
Got one!
@@boosted_john just saw this lol awesome great choice just go easy on hondabond only in 4 corner spots and tq to spec youll be golden
4:21 you straight up look like McLovin
That copper spray gets everywhere! Lol
What main+rod bearings are you using, along with their manufacturer?
John did you have the pistons at mid-cylinder when you torqued down the cams? Always been curious how guys don’t hit valves on pistons when torquing cams and at TDC.
Makes me wanna build
Dope build. I am currently building one myself and I was wondering where did you get your ram horn manifold and turbo from?
Ram horn from eBay. Brand is 1320.
That turbo was junk. Currently running a precision 5858. Much better.
Nice build dude! What did you spray on the head gasket though?
It’s called copper spray. It’s a high temp gasket maker kinda.
Used it on the head gasket since LS VTEC is notorious for leaking from the corner of the head gasket by the trans.
oh fuck yeah bud
Just take it to the boostedboiz lol
Hi bro. Did you used wiseco piston 6567m84 b20 itr head what is the performance
🔥🔥
lol first time i see someone painting a head gasket, also you dont have to put hondabond with the rubber seal on the older hondas oil pans more chance for leaking, otherwise nice video :D
Have you always worked on cars or do you just have a lot more confidence than I do?
Both probably haha. If I can do it, you can do it. Just takes patience and persistence.
Wouu super
Hey,the intake cam gear moved slightly while you torqued it....🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
Did anyone notice the intake cam gear move when he was tightening the bolt down. Check the cam gear bolts.
Clear timing covers! Or just timing covers in general.
Man honestly I redid my civic's oil pan gasket like 10 times and ended up with leaks every single time, very interested to see what happens with your sealant all around. My integra gasket took me 3 tries but finally got it to seal even with breaking a bolt -- not going to touch that until I really have to hahaha don't wanna mess up a good thing. Sweet build though brother, love the VC color!!! Be well fam
How do you make it not leak? Mine still leaks by the oil pump…
@@boosted_john I used a very thin layer of hondabond then let it set up for a few minutes then wiped it damn near flat. Other than that I switched from the rubber only gaskets to the blue felpro molded rubber with metal gasket. I honestly think it was just dumb luck. I was at the end of my rope though man, hoping yours holds up this time!
@@TunerThings @Boosted John guys cant stress this enough you need fel pro OS 30630 T. hondabond or any other sealant is only making it worse even more so if not torqued properly. im even running after market moroso pan which is known to not be perfectly flat with fel pro permadry plus and hondabond only in the correct spots no leaks even reusing multiple times. here is from speedfactory they use the same gasket on the fastest FWD & AWD civic in the world. " As with any engine, leaks can develop as time and miles go by. The oil pan gasket is a common leak found on the B series engines - unfortunately, many owners or shops may try to tighten the oil pan bolts to stop the leak.
This makes matters worse, as the oil pan on these engines have raised dimples that are stamped in the flange to prevent over compression of the gasket on the assembly line.
By tightening the bolts beyond the original torque specification, these dimples can be crushed and the oil pan sealing flange can deform, creating leak paths and will resulting in an even worse leak!
At this point, the OE-style oil pan gasket design will no longer work, because it relies on the correct formed dimples to prevent over compression of the gasket. In this case, there are two options - replace the pan at over $100, or install the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket - OS 30630 T.
Unlike OE-style gaskets for these engines - including many sold within the aftermarket - the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket features a rigid, steel-core construction and built in torque limiters that prevent over-compression of the gasket and overtorquing of the oil pan bolts,
FYI - Installation TipThe OE gasket does have two compression limiters molded into it - they can be found only on the transmission side of the pan. When removing the old gasket, these limiters can be left behind, stuck to the pan. If these limiters are left in place, the limiters built into the Fel-Pro gasket will stack on top of them and result in an oil leak.
Be sure to inspect and remove them when cleaning the flange.
Like every Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus gasket, the OS 30630 T must be installed on clean and dry sealing surfaces, with NO sealers, adhesives, or RTV applied to the gasket. The repair manual replacement procedure instructions should be followed for this gasket, as with all Fel-Pro gaskets unless otherwise noted. As directed by the repair manual for these applications, there are 4 areas on the engine block where RTV must be applied - the two joints created by the oil pump and the two joints created by the right side cover. RTV is needed at these points because the components coming together creates a joint which no gasket can “flow” into. A little bit of RTV will get on the gasket when the gasket and pan are placed on the block, which is ok as long as RTV is not applied ANYWHERE ELSE.
Fel-Pro oil pan Snap-Ups® are included with the set and are a clean, simple and effective way to speed up the oil pan gasket installation. Simply thread them into the block where the oil pan bolts go, snap the oil pan gasket in place, then the pan itself and start threading the bolts in. Once the oil pan is secure, the Snap-Ups are easily removed and are reusable.
@@boosted_john guys cant stress this enough you need fel pro OS 30630 T. hondabond or any other sealant is only making it worse even more so if not torqued properly. im even running after market moroso pan which is known to not be perfectly flat with fel pro permadry plus and hondabond only in the correct spots no leaks even reusing multiple times. here is from speedfactory they use the same gasket on the fastest FWD & AWD civic in the world. " As with any engine, leaks can develop as time and miles go by. The oil pan gasket is a common leak found on the B series engines - unfortunately, many owners or shops may try to tighten the oil pan bolts to stop the leak.
This makes matters worse, as the oil pan on these engines have raised dimples that are stamped in the flange to prevent over compression of the gasket on the assembly line.
By tightening the bolts beyond the original torque specification, these dimples can be crushed and the oil pan sealing flange can deform, creating leak paths and will resulting in an even worse leak!
At this point, the OE-style oil pan gasket design will no longer work, because it relies on the correct formed dimples to prevent over compression of the gasket. In this case, there are two options - replace the pan at over $100, or install the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket - OS 30630 T.
Unlike OE-style gaskets for these engines - including many sold within the aftermarket - the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket features a rigid, steel-core construction and built in torque limiters that prevent over-compression of the gasket and overtorquing of the oil pan bolts,
FYI - Installation TipThe OE gasket does have two compression limiters molded into it - they can be found only on the transmission side of the pan. When removing the old gasket, these limiters can be left behind, stuck to the pan. If these limiters are left in place, the limiters built into the Fel-Pro gasket will stack on top of them and result in an oil leak.
Be sure to inspect and remove them when cleaning the flange.
Like every Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus gasket, the OS 30630 T must be installed on clean and dry sealing surfaces, with NO sealers, adhesives, or RTV applied to the gasket. The repair manual replacement procedure instructions should be followed for this gasket, as with all Fel-Pro gaskets unless otherwise noted. As directed by the repair manual for these applications, there are 4 areas on the engine block where RTV must be applied - the two joints created by the oil pump and the two joints created by the right side cover. RTV is needed at these points because the components coming together creates a joint which no gasket can “flow” into. A little bit of RTV will get on the gasket when the gasket and pan are placed on the block, which is ok as long as RTV is not applied ANYWHERE ELSE.
Fel-Pro oil pan Snap-Ups® are included with the set and are a clean, simple and effective way to speed up the oil pan gasket installation. Simply thread them into the block where the oil pan bolts go, snap the oil pan gasket in place, then the pan itself and start threading the bolts in. Once the oil pan is secure, the Snap-Ups are easily removed and are reusable.
Yo, the cam gear moved adjustment when you torqued the second one down, hopefully you caught this cause it moved a lot
Hey boosted John what head gasket did you use?
Hey man what was the torque sequence you used on the head 🙏🏼✌🏼
What turbo manifold your running John? 👀👀asking for a friend
LETS GOOOOOOOOO
John is you fault I got a old acura integra 1998 but has little rust and is crash has only 67,000 miles 2 owners should I restore it or take it apart what you recommend?
will this missile go around bends?
What is that your spraying out of the can??
U should've wrote blow at the last piston 😂👌
how much was the wcytechs intake manifold?! ur cam seals might leak, push them in more next time! excited for u bruddah
What oil pump y’all running ?
Have you seen the K997 videos?
997 with similar engine.
So did you provide them with your pistons and rods and have them assemble it for you?
Yeah. And bearings.
@@boosted_john nice i just got a b16a block and crank that i want to send out to get sleeved. Either benson or golden eagle. How much did you pay?
Where those can gears adjusted it looks it? I’d not Shame on Sk2 charges over 200 bucks for those cam gear to give someone a defective one is typical eBay shenanigans. Nice vid very proper-
Where did you got the motor base?
This was a little sloppy, bet you went back to the cam seals after installing the sprockets since the cam seals were left hanging there and not pushed in all the way lol
👍👍👍👍
@3:34 😂😂😂😂 🙌
leeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeegoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
God, I’ll always get nervous when bolting down head bolts.
Are you ever gonna fix the body?
Not big on Civics, but what does LS mean for a VTEC motor, because when I see LS I think of the LS V8
LS means that the bottom end came from an Integra LS. It’s a 1.8L motor that does NOT have VTEC.
So you take this LS bottom end and put a VTEC head on it to gain the low end torque of the LS engine and the top end power of VTEC.
LS VTEC
Start a candle company and thank me later bro 😎
why does your oil pan leak?
anyone else see his cam gear slip when tightening it. certainly not going to be in time exactly
intake side cam gear to be exact
I would love to get a eg6 shell🙇🏽♂️
What cams ?