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Hi there! I honestly don’t remember but will check, thanks for the tip!

I am not a pro either! Keep us posted if you find a real answer

Hopefully our videos give you some perspective! Feel free to send questions and good luck with the build

All same bolts have to be removed regardless of the method , you can find them. This is showing how to get the engine out by yourself. Good luck and thanks for watching!

I was actually looking for a video that would actually show the process in detail. The title of this video indicates that the video showed that. It did not.

No issues so far. I did get a lot of people telling me I used too much of it which is probably true, but the engine is doing good!

What are you trying to say?

Thanks for watching!

Holaa!

Those have smaller passages and restrict oil flow. I do run one in my other bus that was installed by a previous owner and it’s fine but that bus doesn’t get as many miles as the Blue Doobie. For longevity and road worthiness I chose to do it the right way

That is an amazing idea, thank you!

How is your build going?

I know… it was a bummer to have all that noise. Maybe some new AI tool will come out that can fix it and then we’ll re-upload!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you for all your comments. Which is the correct one?

@@onehappykombi Look for piston ring pliers.

Thank you for watching and leaving a comment

So you would make a hole in the pulley tin?

More like fine dust

Straight Wont clear pulley tin

I didn’t have an issue, just would prefer not doing it

Thank you! We’ve been putting some miles 😁

Agreed! But they’re pricey. Any brand you recommend in particular?

@@onehappykombi I use torques uk but if your in the states then not sure? You guys have a bigger range for sure

I wasn't born knowing 😂

what do you mean a little tight? so far so good !

One of your rods for one just sticks in place, those things should flop easily not bind or be stiff whatsoever

okay thanks for the heads up. I haven't had any issues after running it for a few thousand miles. Do you think this could be because I assembled it using white grease instead of oil? @@Fahrfrumlosin

@@onehappykombi maybe, that’s a bit thicker

Do you think VW will actually stop manufacturing ICE vehicles?

Then it would hit the pulley

​@@onehappykombi maybe your pulley is larger I did the extension pipe and fitting on my 1600 dune buggy and it totally clears my pulley your engine is beautiful hate seeing you destroy it when there are better options like eBay full flow oil pump or adapter from original oil cooler bracket area bolts right on ❤

Danke schön

That is a great tip, however I heard stories of people forgetting the paper towel in there which can also be chaotic!

Yes! Thank you!

Great to hear that! What is this research for?

It all depends many factors. How’s your engine? We started with a really crappy engine and had to rebuild it. Overall just do it and worry about the problems later!

Thanks. My engine isn't the best, but she runs ok. I have already replaced quite a bit since I've had her. I was more concerned with the steep mountains, since she is not fond of them lol. Thanks for the info, I really enjoy your videos.

Steep mountains will be fine if you take them slow! The pancake engine should have way less issues than we did and it also has more power Keep us updated!!

@@onehappykombi Thanks 😊

I used a “camper special” cam from Steve Long. I think it’s supposed to be similar to the CB cheater cam. I’ll keep an eye on the mpg and bump up the comp ratio if needed Thank you!

I still have that other case, I will have it checked by a different professional Do you still machine your own cases these days?

@@onehappykombi no all the line bore stuff got sold. that should not have any edge like that. almost looks like the bit was a bit dull. My line bores look super shiny. almost like a mirror.

Face of the rocker parallel to the tip of the valve, i posted a photo with lines showing this on the video So far all good!

Of course this is a lot of very confusing information in this poorly prepared video. Please let me know if this helps. I am not a professional engine builder but have a lot of engineering experience solving problems and developing manufacturing solutions. I would like to offer everyone a method I developed in 2015 and published instructions on The Samba. The objective in performing rocker arm geometry is to find the correct length push rod when at the point of TVL/2 by way of adjusting the shims under the rocker arm such that half height results in the valve stem plane being parallel to any other un-pushed stable valve stem. How is parallel determined? Most will employ the "eyeball" method as viewed from the rocker end but if small bubble levels are used then maximum precision and repeatability can be achieved. One bubble level is placed on any other valve stem with its adjuster screw removed. The other bubble level is affixed (magnet & double tape) to the valve lash adjuster screw. Once the two levels are approximately centered when at half of total valve lift then the push rod length can be measured. Centering the rocker arm contact with the valve stem at half height will minimize valve guide wear and resistance. Follow the path of the rocker contact across the valve stem surface to fully understand.

Hi Mike! Thank you for all your advice during the rebuild, couldn’t have done this without you!!

Why am I suddenly getting dozens of these messages? Did the channel come up on some app you guys use?

@@onehappykombi we are work for you

Thank you! We’ve been putting in miles :D

Highly recommended! You could get a lighter one for the warmer climate

Very exciting Thank you for leaving a comment!

I can build an engine but I can’t fix the horn 🤣😂

@onehappykombi just as an idea. Use an earth wire on the pole that is on the inside of the cab. (Next to your knees) and use this wire as the earth cable for the horn? If it's an earth problem. If not, adjust the height of your horn push button. Remove the horn cover at the steering wheel. Under it, you should have 3 screws. Adjust this outwards. Each screw should have a spring on each one. This pushes the contact ring away from the steering wheel. If it makes contact with the steering wheel, it will complete the circuit and make the horn work. Just a couple of tips.

@onehappykombi well done rebuilding the engine! Top work. It's a huge weight off both your chests when it runs. Don't hammer it down the road. Nice and gentle. 300 miles (roughly) change the oil. If not fewer miles. But im sure you have the help when needed. One thing I've learnt owning old VWs is the love. Anyone and everyone who owns old vw are happy to help. ❤️ it's not just a machine.... it's emotional 🤙🏻

So far we put about 1000 miles on it without issues

Thank you for your encouragement!

That would have been nice!

Sounds good now the drive test !

Thank you for commenting I will give this a try. Although the stuff is cheap, I don’t mind if I wasted some and it still looks great!

Hi Jon Thank you for your message Why are you saying I should try to remove the fuel pump? I just put it in there

spoiler alert: I've been spending my weekends driving the bus instead of editing video 😀

@@onehappykombi Awesome!!! You’ve gone to great lengths to do things right. I did the exact same thing to my car about 18 years ago. Found all the OEM tin and fan housing and thermostat system including the famous Hoover Bit (for which you can find good new reproductions that fit great). Up in NY it will help the engine warm up quicker and nicer during cold weather. Can’t wait to see the install and start up videos.

Hey John! Yes my upper cylinder tins shown on this video are for a bug Don’t forget the hoover bit! Thank you for leaving a comment