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Hi Mike...I'm about to change out my valve cover gasket & just tried to see how torqued down the 5 bolts are & applied some pressure but backed off being afraid of breaking it. Should I be afraid of doing this or are these bolts hardened enough not to break & just apply more torque on the rachet? I certainly don't want to cause me any grief of having to do any "easy out project". This is a 2003 Cummins 400 isl with 72k on the clock.

Great video Mike! Your craftsmanship sets a very high bar! You bumped your boost by blocking the signal line to the waste gate servo? Thanks!

do you rebuild Blue ox Bx4325 Alladin tow bar ?

That was awesome to watch, thank you for explaining everything you were doing. I learned a lot !!!

I have a 2006 Travel Supreme 42DS04. I took it in to check the slobber tube as to I saw some dripping on my concert after coming back from a trip towing my Ford F150 4x4. Took it in just to have it checked and they said everything looked good but I was missing a bolt on the manifold. They suggested that I get a new bolt put in and change the gaskets. Should I just have the whole manifold replaced to be on the safe side? 58K on the engine and the turbocharger checks out GOOD. Thoughts?

Nice job.

i just replaced both idler pulleys and both spindle assemblies for the first time in 15 years and also both blades and the belt on my 2009 Z4200. I live in Florida and it gets used 52 weeks a year for 1/2 hour. i replace the belt and blades every year and sell the used ones on ebay at zero net cost. my spindles had a same bearing noise as yours and idlers were both draggy. it has never cut so level and smooth. the biggest thing i have found on this machine is all the motor mount bolts and the frame bolts need to be torqued on an annual basis. they literally shake loose and all need to be red loctite done. i just haven't gotten around to that yet

Great work sir. You are a professional.

Is the original rotor on the 2010 110 different than the newer 2014 and up ones?

I would suggest rotating the tire after each adjustment

Just changed the belt on my 2001 Monaco exitive. Find your videos helpful when working on mine . Had it apart to find an oil leak . So once I had it apart figured to go ahead and change the belt , check for wearing & rub marks on all the hoses. And I found the oil leak too . It was the oil pressure sending unit. Next project is to replace a couple air selinods for the HWH system. Have the screws turned in on the valve body so it's only in normal air ride for now . Thanks for all the great information you share .

Mike, I am glad that I ran across your video and presentation. I have a 2000 Monaco Diplomat that I purchased a couple years back. It's been hard to get good information about the chassis. For example, the Tie rod ends, and the center link are a problem that no one in my area in South Carolina seem to supply parts. There are a lot of things under the coach that I'm trying to service but it's not so easy when I don't have anything but an owner's manual to lead me. You video was very well done. I have subscribed to your channel and will be viewing your other videos. Thanks so much for sharing.

"Mike, great videos! They help me a lot with multiple things related to service and repairs. I purchased a 2003 Monaco Dynasty 42’. We have the exact same Monaco made in Oregon. If you could provide me with some pictures of the fuse schematic on the driver’s side, that would help me tremendously as I’m trying to troubleshoot some electrical issues. I may be pushing my luck by asking for the part numbers for the airbags. Keep the videos coming!"

@zmotorsports Where about in Utah are you? Wondering if you do any work for others? I am in St George and have a 05 Beaver Marquis

Did you video the coolant hose replacements?

GM idiots. Why not run the oil to radiator to cool? I am not a ford fan but this the biggest top bull$hit to repair job I've ever done. Thanks GM.

I have the same problem. I tow jeep with truck camper dually truck. After watching video I built guards identical to yours. First trip no changes to rock chips (front of new flaps peppered with rocks). Now I’m thinking it’s my Rock Tamers and I put “stiff flaps” on instead of the ones that came with it. They are probably only an inch off ground when loaded. Thoughts?

I have the same problem. I tow jeep with truck camper dually truck. After watching video I built guards identical to yours. First trip no changes to rock chips (front of new flaps peppered with rocks). Now I’m thinking it’s my Rock Tamers and I put “stiff flaps” on instead of the ones that came with it. They are probably only an inch off ground when loaded. Thoughts?

After replacing my 2nd EGR valve on my 2011 JK (3.8 Automatic), I want to share a few tips that I learned the hard way. This job is a pain as it is very hard to access the EGR valve. The key to making this job easier (or even possible) is to have the right tools and follow a particular sequence. The following flexible locking head pass-thru wrench (GEARWRENCH 27 Pc. 1/4" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru™ Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric - 891427) was a lifesaver the key to getting this job done correctly. If you use something else, you have a good chance of stripping the bolts and/or not being able to access a couple bolts at all. Note: they sell this ¼” drive wrench and 10mm socket separately for less $ but I bought the entire set. I HIGHLY recommend buying at least the flexible wrench and 10mm socket (the locking head mechanism and shallow body on this is a key to how it works so well in this application - also, only use 6 point sockets for this job to not strip the bolts.) The first time I replaced my EGR, I didn't have this and it took forever and I stripped a bolt. Worth every penny. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIAKJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Use a good worklight for this job. 1) From on top of the engine, remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the rigid silver tube that connects down to the side of the EGR. You will also use a 12mm socket to remove the bracket holding 2 rigid black plastic tubes (next to trans dipstick) and pop those tubes out of bracket (set bracket aside). Now remove 12mm bolt (under the bracket you just removed) holding he silver EGR tube down to valve cover. 2) Jack car up & remove front passenger side wheel. Use jack stands for safety as you will be reaching in through the passenger side wheel-well to do most of the work. 3) Using a trim removal tool, remove trim push nuts holding passenger side inner wheel well plastic cover and remove the wheel-well and gain access to the EGR. You can leave the plastic fender in place for this job. You should have new trim push barbs on hand as you will probably break these taking them out. They sell a pack of them on Amazon. 4) From wheel-well side, remove the (2) 8mm bolts holding the silver tube elbow to the EGR valve & lift tube out of vehicle from top of the engine side. 5) Trace the 3 spark plug wires from the passenger side of the engine over to where they plug in to the distributor block on the driver side of engine. Mark the three wires (1, 2, 3) with a sharpie or tape so you know where to replace them after you are done. Unplug the 3 spark plug wires from the distributor on driver side & pull though to passenger side of engine folding out of the way exposing the top of the EGR valve. (note how the wires are routed as it is sort of a pain to push them back through under all the tubes and wires when you want to reconnect them - you don't need to unplug from spark plugs and you can keep wires in the plastic bracket). 6) You can now see the top of the EGR valve and the wiring connector you will need to disconnect. Use a screwdriver or pick tool to push the red tab on connector toward the firewall of car. Then use a long screwdriver to push down on the black tab/middle back top of connector while pushing connector with a long needle nose pliers (or screwdriver) toward drivers side to release connector (note: you will not be able to remove the connector all the way yet because there is a stud bolt sticking up from the engine preventing the connector from sliding all the way off - as long as you release the connector and slide it a bit off you are good for now… taking it completely off occurs later). 7) From inside wheel-well, you will now use a 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt from the EGR valve. (Note: use only 6 point sockets and make sure they are seated correctly before trying to break these EGR bolts loose, you DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE BOLTS - make sure you are using 10MM and they are kept seated well on the bolt before using even pressure to break the bolts free - lefty looseny). 8) When the lower EGR bolt is removed. You will now take your hand and push the top of the EGR valve away from you to break free the hidden 2nd EGR bolt. Be careful to not get your fingers caught between the EGR and the trans dipstick tube. (you can also stick a rod/screwdriver into the hole on side of EGR for leverage but hand pressure worked for me). 9) With the EGR now moving, you can now angle the connector upward and detach the wire connector from the top side (much easier than doing from underneath). 10) You now NEED to get the dipstick tube moved toward the driver side slightly to be able to access the hidden EGR bolt. Some dipstick tubes are attached by a lower bracket which is in a real tight spot to remove. Near the EGR valve at firewall, you can see/feel a bracket with a 10mm bolt. You will need to access the bolt head from the firewall side (there are some rubber tubes at the firewall that get in the way but you can work around them). Using the 1/4" drive 10mm pass-thru wrench (linked above) saved me on this job. I locked the wrench head for a slight back-angle and using the 10mm socket and feeling with two hands was able to loosen the bracket bolt - be patient. One bracket bolt was disconnected, from the top side I used a strong bungee around the top of dipstick tube and pulled as far as I could toward drivers’ side and attached it to something. My hood was fully flipped back this whole time. This moved the dipstick tube a couple inches toward driver side and now allowed access to the final EGR bolt using the special pass-thru socket (linked above). 11) From the wheel-well, you can now use the 10mm pass-thru flexible head socket to access the final EGR bolt. You will need to remove the bolt by hand once it gets loose enough. 12) Reverse the procedure to install the new EGR using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't forget the gaskets. Don’t over-tighten bolts as you could break them off - just very snug. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Great video, after watching I will replace it myself. I’m very mechanical but wasn’t sure what I would be getting into, your video decided for me. I have 04 Windsor 400ISL engine ,cracked manifold same place, has 110,000 miles.Hope my turbo is ok , but thanks for the info. I just need to find the new manifold.

What was the product you greased up the compressor O-ring with? I missed what you called it and can't seem to make out the words. Thanks in advance.

I just bought this car with 61,000 miles. You think its a decent car? What should i look out for?

Does the offset of the seal have to super precise?

Is that a 5.0 ltre 305 or 5.7 350

I wish I had one percent of his skill. Somehow I knew the piece was going to be polished. I’ll have to settle for the commercially available alu tank on my Monaco for about $450 if I recall.

The oil monitor is just a reference guide. I just go by how often I drove my vehicle and I check my oil level and the quality of it by taking a quick check. And just change it when they get dark brown. Cheap oil will lose they're lubricity in extreme heat.

Thanks Mike! Great video and excellent step by step procedure. Going to eat my Wheaties before attempting the 74 ft.lbs + 105 degrees

Do you ever build any of these tanks for other people ?

Do you ever build any of these tanks for other people ?

I checked his website and he says he has retired.

I have the same issue on my BMW 1200RT. How do I get a hold of you?

I'll be using this guide this winter when I do a tub swap. Thanks!

Mike, first of all thank you for doing these videos! They are extremely helpful. My question is what digital torque wrench are you using for the harmonic balancer? I’ve been searching on the net and can’t seem to find one that’s over 250 ft lbs with the exception of the one I found from Snap-On. Thank you for your time.

Great video. Thanks for the information. Is the lift pump above the starter, and did you get access from on top

Great video Mike, can you give me a little more information about the electronic fuel pressure gauge that goes up front? (part # where to get it, )

You sir are a true professional, I am currently having my exhaust manifold replaced on my 2005 holiday rambler Neptune 5.9, I would hire you in a minute if you were in my area. I would have done it myself but im waiting to have a shoulder replacement, your video would have been a great help!

2nd gen

Hey Mike, Was there an extra stop you needed to remove to get your generator to pull out farther? Mine doesn't come out nearly as far as yours, it's a beaver non Tag but our coaches are very similar otherwise.

Great video Mike, thanks a bounch. By any chance could you have the rebuild kit brand or link? Much appreciated. Ruben

I have heard that these older Monaco Roadmaster Chassis are great but have also heard about a rear suspension issue that some are recommending it be upgraded do you have any comment on that issue believe it was the rear control arms or something like that and is the upgrade as good as the folks who are pushing the change out?

GREAT JOB! I appreciate the attention to detail and high professionalism. Great tutorial!

would you have interest in a 1986 Honda 250R 3 wheeler left side motor case - i need some expert welding help?

What did you make those bench tops from

on the 6:15 mark you used some pliers to disconnect a conector, what plier are those?

I am so glad I found your channel! I originally searched for information about the toro that I just acquired. Then I see this video and I also have the exact same color '15 Camaro SS with some serious paint defects. Thank you for filming and sharing your knowledge.

Would this also be a fix for the indicator in the dash not showing park when the truck is in park? It will show reverse the odd time then start flashing. The shifter also feels somewhat loose and not a good firm feel when running through the gears to select the desired.

Well done, very clear video! My Monaco is 2007, and like yours the floors are solid but will install these also. Wow, they are pricey though!

Solid tutorial on real world example. Good stuff.

My new valve is making a ticking noise on acceleration. 07 Jk, never had that noise till the egr was replaced. Any idea why and how to fix it ?

Does it need to be balanced or something?