Thank you I appreciate that. I enjoy sharing what I've learned over the past 30+ years of being a mechanic as well as continuing to learn myself. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike
Yes, I use the old nut and run it on so there is no clearance. It has to be tight enough that the is no clearance in order to get any accurate pinion depth. Once mockup is complete and final pinion depth is determined everything is assembled for the last time when final rotating torque is set. Thanks for taking the time to watch and I hope it was helpful. Mike
You can. I've done both and found no difference for torquing the main caps. You do however, want to back the case tension off to check the carrier preload as that can have an effect.
What case spreader do you own Mike? Part way through but loving it so far. I got a hand me down but it’s pretty rough, looking to upgrade. Been looking at the ARB or the OTC but seen a few others out there.
@@zmotorsports62 love the long video format and great work Mike. I will be ordering an engraver now and adding that to my process. Don’t do a ton of regears but seems like a good practice. Also, you have me looking for those ARB shim drivers, will definitely be ordering a set. Next time be great to see the test drive and what your listening or looking for during that. Book ends the build as it were. Definitely be interested to see the truck when it comes back after the break in period.
Thanks Paul. I didn't even think about filming the test drive. I appreciate the idea, I may have to film that although many might think it's pretty boring. Mike
@@zmotorsports62 no someone using this as a guide will appreciate it. Also if someone has had a regear and wasn’t done well they will have an idea of what’s ‘normal’ and what is a warning things are getting out of spec. For example if the shop had the backlash set to the loose end of spec because they didn’t use a case spreader etc. Now it’s clunking or something else. Warning signs are great before you do permanent damage. Anyways, appreciate how much effort it takes to get all the angles and show it all. But you’re a natural so keep it up. Have a great evening Mike.
Yes. Very little. Usually these bearings have between .0005"-.001 interference fit so only .001"-.002" is all that needs to be removed for a slight slip fit.
Yes. There are a few setups that have the carrier shims under the side bearings which necessitates setup bearings for the carrier as well as the pinion but they are few and far between. Most shims are outside of the carrier bearings, or like on the Ford 9" third members and GM 14-bolts they actually have adjustable side shims that are adjusted by way of using a spanner wrench to set the backlash as well as carrier pre-load.
You are so meticulous. I wish you were closer to Indiana. I'm needing to re-gear my 2016 F150 that I just boosted with 3.0L Whipple supercharger. I've got the older 6-speed and 3.31 e-locker. I always do my own auto work, as I have a hard time trusting others, but I think I'd prefer having someone (meticulous like you) to do this job...I don't quite have the facilities and tools for front and rear re-gear. Quick question...isn't the rotational torque in inch pounds at the yoke the combined preload? If the carrier is in with the shims and caps torqued to spec, I thought the yoke torque would be combined preload.
Thanks for the comments, I am flattered. If you notice in the video I show two preload numbers. The first one is pinion alone measured with a dial inch/pound torque wrench and you want to measure the value once it is rotating and not the breakaway value. That is known as the pinion preload or PPL as I indicate when I engrave the ring rear and in my notes. The next is the combined preload known as CPL in my notes and engravings. This is in fact the total preload once the carrier is installed IF the people shims are installed. The shims for the carrier not only determine the backlash but also set the proper carrier preload but this is difficult or even impossible to measure on most configurations so combining the two is the best method. I generally shoot for around 3 to 7 in/lbs additional to the PPL. I hope I explained that ok. Thanks for taking the time to watch and especially for the kind words. Mike
That was proper &professional. Did injoy the education. The proper way is the only was. An another thing. Happy lefthanders day bro.👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿
One of the most well done how to videos I've ever watched. Thank you for sharing your Knowledge, Sir.
Thank you. I appreciate the kind words and thank you for watching.
Mike
Absolutely amazing video! Very thorough & extreme attention to detail.
Thank you and thanks for taking the time you watch.
Mike
Great two videos on this process. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
You're welcome and thank you for the comments and for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Awesome work 👏
Fantastic job and vid! 👍🏻
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Mike
Holy crap this video was a life saver. THANK YOU
Glad it was helpful.
Thank you for watching.
Mike
Great video, thanks😁
Thank you and thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Wow so much knowledge, thanks for sharing!
Thank you I appreciate that. I enjoy sharing what I've learned over the past 30+ years of being a mechanic as well as continuing to learn myself.
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
When checking pinion depth, are putting the nut on the pinion shaft every time or do you leave the nut completely off? Great video BTW. Thanks!
Yes, I use the old nut and run it on so there is no clearance. It has to be tight enough that the is no clearance in order to get any accurate pinion depth.
Once mockup is complete and final pinion depth is determined everything is assembled for the last time when final rotating torque is set.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and I hope it was helpful.
Mike
10 4, thanks for reply, great vid, very informative
Thank you for watching. Glad to hear it was informative.
Mike
would you not want to back pressure off of case spreader before you tightn the carrier bolts
You can. I've done both and found no difference for torquing the main caps. You do however, want to back the case tension off to check the carrier preload as that can have an effect.
Do you have to tune computer for the regear? Why or why not. Thanks
Yes, you should because not only will it throw the speedometer off if not, but it will have an effect on things like transmission shift points.
@@zmotorsports62 thank you
Good job Mike...
Thanks Terry. I appreciate that.
where are you located? I would love to pay you for this service
Northern Utah but I'm not a commercial business any longer.
Mike
What case spreader do you own Mike? Part way through but loving it so far. I got a hand me down but it’s pretty rough, looking to upgrade. Been looking at the ARB or the OTC but seen a few others out there.
Paul, mine is an OTC case spreader.
Hope you're enjoying the video.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 love the long video format and great work Mike. I will be ordering an engraver now and adding that to my process. Don’t do a ton of regears but seems like a good practice. Also, you have me looking for those ARB shim drivers, will definitely be ordering a set.
Next time be great to see the test drive and what your listening or looking for during that. Book ends the build as it were. Definitely be interested to see the truck when it comes back after the break in period.
Thanks Paul. I didn't even think about filming the test drive. I appreciate the idea, I may have to film that although many might think it's pretty boring.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 no someone using this as a guide will appreciate it. Also if someone has had a regear and wasn’t done well they will have an idea of what’s ‘normal’ and what is a warning things are getting out of spec.
For example if the shop had the backlash set to the loose end of spec because they didn’t use a case spreader etc. Now it’s clunking or something else. Warning signs are great before you do permanent damage.
Anyways, appreciate how much effort it takes to get all the angles and show it all. But you’re a natural so keep it up. Have a great evening Mike.
Do you buy the setup bearing for the pinion or make it out of the original removed from vehicle?
I make them myself. Either a good used one removed from the vehicle or I'll purchase a new one.
@@zmotorsports62 im assuming just a small amount of material removed from the inner bearing race ?
Yes. Very little. Usually these bearings have between .0005"-.001 interference fit so only .001"-.002" is all that needs to be removed for a slight slip fit.
@@zmotorsports62 ok perfect. I suppose we are lucky only having to use them for the pinion on the super 8.8 lol
Yes. There are a few setups that have the carrier shims under the side bearings which necessitates setup bearings for the carrier as well as the pinion but they are few and far between. Most shims are outside of the carrier bearings, or like on the Ford 9" third members and GM 14-bolts they actually have adjustable side shims that are adjusted by way of using a spanner wrench to set the backlash as well as carrier pre-load.
You are so meticulous. I wish you were closer to Indiana. I'm needing to re-gear my 2016 F150 that I just boosted with 3.0L Whipple supercharger. I've got the older 6-speed and 3.31 e-locker. I always do my own auto work, as I have a hard time trusting others, but I think I'd prefer having someone (meticulous like you) to do this job...I don't quite have the facilities and tools for front and rear re-gear.
Quick question...isn't the rotational torque in inch pounds at the yoke the combined preload? If the carrier is in with the shims and caps torqued to spec, I thought the yoke torque would be combined preload.
Thanks for the comments, I am flattered.
If you notice in the video I show two preload numbers. The first one is pinion alone measured with a dial inch/pound torque wrench and you want to measure the value once it is rotating and not the breakaway value. That is known as the pinion preload or PPL as I indicate when I engrave the ring rear and in my notes.
The next is the combined preload known as CPL in my notes and engravings. This is in fact the total preload once the carrier is installed IF the people shims are installed. The shims for the carrier not only determine the backlash but also set the proper carrier preload but this is difficult or even impossible to measure on most configurations so combining the two is the best method. I generally shoot for around 3 to 7 in/lbs additional to the PPL.
I hope I explained that ok.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and especially for the kind words.
Mike