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@@bens3566 That’s awesome, glad I was able to. Will do man 🤝🏼 I did a long form video on this as well if you’re interested in that. It’s easier to follow because it’s more detailed, explained better and the process is slowed down. It’s also a review on the products and I talk about why I chose them. You may like that a little better if you’re trying to use it to install your own. Here is the link or you can find it on my channel : ruclips.net/video/CH8P_cp3Py4/видео.htmlsi=269NMDcdSkHv-cFu

@ Awesome I’ll check it out, I’m actually building my first rifle so finding an account that offers clear concise yet detailed instructions and Info is a boon to new shooters. You earned a new sub, hope you have a good one and looking forward to new content!

@ That’s awesome you’re building your own rifle. Good for you! I have short and long form videos for each step on building the lower receiver on my channel. Regarding the upper receiver I haven’t built my own yet because there’s so many good companies out there who make complete uppers, I’ve just bought bcm uppers. Hopefully someday I’ll build my own and be able to record it. Thank you for subscribing. I really appreciate that. You have a good one as well 🤝🏼 I’ll keep it coming out as fast as I can.

@@herbertmartin4320 Sig was misleading making it seem like you can use any trigger. I tried to use my Geissele Ssa-e trigger and it damaged it. If it does not get any better I’ll have to replace it for one of sigs triggers or a heavier mil spec trigger that’s like a 5 lb trigger. I think the Ssa-e was too light and that’s why it was damaged. From my bad experience I wouldn’t recommend you get the conversion kit. I would just buy the entire firearm with the sig lower that comes with it. If you do get the conversion kit, make sure you use an sig trigger or a heavier mil spec trigger. That seems to work better. Hope this helps.

@@davidgraham2673 P2 is pretty good for the most part, I have heard some complaints on them failing or breaking but it’s relatively small compared to how many are out there. The new Trijicon RCR is supposed to be more durable but at the price of $774, it’s getting closer to the T2. Rcr is right in between the p2 and the t2 price wise. Yes I think durability and reliability are very important, especially on a shotgun. Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it and I hope it was helpful.

@@commalTl Oh yeah so much easier. Love the threaded end lower receivers. Hope more companies do stuff like that. Trying to smash that spring in with the end plate is annoying 😂

🤔 I’ve got a tap and die set and a box of set screws.

@@AndresGonzalez-kp7dd Didn’t want to buy a tool so figured out a way to do without. You don’t have to trim the springs, I did it to make the take down pins easier to pull out and push in if taking off the upper. They have a lot of resistance with the fulls springs on this upper, especially when using the screw in the rear.

@@AndresGonzalez-kp7dd Thank you for your service 🫡🤝🏼 Tools not needed like you said, just have to be a little more careful.

@@jr303official Aero ambi is decent, I don’t like the right side bolt controls. I prefer this lower but it is a bit overpriced.

@GearAndGuns it's also about half the price on sale. It's a forged lower, so it's lighter and stronger. Also, on mine, I was able to put on an extended mag release.

@ Half the price is true and lighter I can imagine. Not sure about the strength but I don’t think that matters much for lowers. Haven’t had a need for extended mag releases but if you like that more that’s good. This is the highest quality lower I’ve seen.

@GearAndGuns have you ever looked at ARQ 15 or Ascend Armory reciver sets? Those are amazing. I don't think the extended mag release is nessisary, but if you use it, you understand.

@ This is my first time seeing those. What do you like about them? Yeah I haven’t been able to use one but I could see it being helpful.

@@502outlaw2 No problem, glad you enjoyed it and happy to help.

@@anthonyyoung754 Probably better to. I try to brace it when I remember but when you dry fire it, there’s nothing to brace it then.

@@gruffsbadmojo Glad you like it, I should’ve just stayed with black though.

@@112233or1 Thank you 👍🏼

@@Rique7447 Quality over quantity my brother 👍🏼 I might have a video coming up of something that’s actually not quality but I didn’t pay for it.

@ I feel you man, keep it coming🤝🏻

@ A company is supposed to send me out a cheap optic. It’s not something I would buy myself, recommend or use. Only reason I agreed to it is because I wanted to try out an optic with a green dot. So I’ll make a couple videos on that but won’t be recommending most people to buy it. Also just something to be able to make videos on to keep content coming out but everything I normally make videos on is quality. This will be an exception, I will explain more in the video. Will do man 🤝🏼

@@GearAndGuns Eotech makes a green optic but the cheap Chinese ones have one you can switch between red and green 😂😂 I feel like a red one would be better due to your eyes seeing it better. But a G-33 and EXP-3 on a AR-15 is a match made in HEAVEN

@ I’d much rather Eotech send me one then Cvlife but yeah it’s cheap Chinese lol. I definitely prefer red but was interested to try out green. Yeah that setup is awesome, that’ll be my next rifle optic setup, plan to put that on a 10.3. 👍🏼

@@808G8GT I disagree, reliability and durability aren’t overhyped. What’s better and cheaper? And how? Holosun? Steiner?

@@timyoung2082 I understand.

@@SharkyF90 Looks like a decent option but wasn’t my first choice. I shouldn’t have got the conversion kit for this though. A lot better as a full gun. I think I’d prefer the honey badger over the maxim defense, that’s a better comparison to that. This is a little different because it’s piston.

@@nickpark4561 I’ve owned both the benelli and this beretta. The grips are both fine to me. I don’t think it’s worth the money to change out the stock and grip, but thanks for the input.

@@joelbellJB Been using it for years and I like it alot better than the stock one and another I tried. Easier to hit and out of the way of my grip so it ensures slide lock.

@@CobraTate-ig2kf I like it better. A lot easier to hit and out of the way of my grip so my slide locks back more consistently.

@@koreyphan No problem. Happy to help. I agree 🤝🏼

@@paxtonwheeler98 I’d like to do that but unfortunately I’m not building an upper right now. I also haven’t ever built my upper because companies like bcm, Geissele and Daniel defense make really good uppers so haven’t felt the need to build my own. Sorry. I wish I could.

@ I appreciate the response. I’ll probably follow suit and buy a complete upper down the road. Thanks

@ No problem, happy to help. Just alot easier in my opinion to buy a complete upper when there’s a lot of good companies out there.

@@jesus-ok1hd Yes it is the same besides in the enhanced lpk it has the trigger guard but if you have the m4e1 you want need it because it has the fixed trigger guard. The trigger you get might be slightly different but it’ll be very similar. I’d recommend watching my long form videos instead of trying to use these shorts. The videos are slower so they’re easier to track what I’m doing and see what I’m doing alot better. They’re also more detailed. If you look on my channel, I have videos showing how to build your full lower receiver. I think they would be more helpful to you than the shorts. 👍🏼hope this helps.

@ thanks for the help I’ll be sure to check out your other videos once my lpk comes in

@@jesus-ok1hd No problem happy to help. Yes I’d definitely check those out and use those instead it’ll be a lot easier to fall along instead of a short video I have to trim down.

@@U.S.AVDUB89 Glock mos adapter plate set. Here’s the set it was apart of : www.glockstore.com/Glock-MOS-Adapter-Set I recommend forward controls adapter plates though, they’re a lot more durable and reliable : www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/opf-g-dpp.html

@@rbarnes8169 For this I did. Otherwise the takedown pins are really hard to pull out and push in.

They’re meant to be that size. Don’t listen to this guy get the right tool and you won’t have a problem

@ Doesn’t have anything to do “the right tool”. With a full spring the takedown pins are extremely hard to get out to the point of needing to punch them out. Trimming the spring helps a lot. Some people grind down the detent, I don’t like doing that. I’m not going to use a full spring, if you want to go for it.

@@GearAndGuns I always put the spring in without that tool just my hands alone but I recommend the tool for people who aren’t used to building ARs. There a reason why the spring is that size. No reason to change the size just to make it easier to install

@ I didn’t use a tool, I used a take down pin and an Allen key which you need the Allen key to install the rear screw. I also didn’t trim the spring to make it easier to install. I trimmed the spring because when using a full spring and the pins are installed, the take down pins are extremely hard to pull out and push in. Im not going to carry around a punch and hammer to push in and pull out the pins.

@@ModliteSystems Thank you for that information and sharing! Haven’t seen that before but man that thing is extended for sure lol. Definitely another good option. Great for hand guards like this. Hard to find all the options but that was helpful thank you 👍🏼🤝🏼

@@ModliteSystems Glad you liked it! This means a lot coming from your company! I’ve been using your flashlights from the start of my journey. Your products are great, I’ve enjoyed using them and they’re a top recommendation from me. I appreciate your support as well brother 🤝🏼🫡

@@thegolflife7565 Yeah that’s similar to the pmm stock. Sig makes the minimalist plus folding stock which is kind of close to that too. Sig also makes a buffer tube adapter that would allow you to use that mct battle link stock if you really want to.

@ I have the PMM stock now. I just wish the handguard was slimmer (Vertus). Don’t really want to upgrade to the LT, just wish I could swap the handguard out. Been told with little modifications I can.

@ PMM stock looks decent. Vertus is cool. I personally would sell it and upgrade but I understand not wanting to. LT has some good upgrades. Piston systems are already heavy as is and the LT helps with that. The hand guard is also a lot more secure being screwed in instead of just held in with a take down pin. Not a huge fan of modifying stuff myself, always seems to mess things up and make it worse but if you want to go for it.

@ If you upgrade, get the full gun. I wouldn’t recommend getting the conversion kit like I did.

@@davidmartin7039 I don’t like to run tritium night sights because you’re seeing 4 dots when you aim. 3 green and 1 red. It’s distracting and not needed in my opinion. I usually go black because I’m using my red do 99% of the time.

@@Illyasviel_von-einzbern Acro has a different mounting footprint than the Coa. Acro and rcr are the only 2 reliable closed emitters to choose from if you want a quality closed emitter. There slightly different but most people are comparing the two when wanting to decide between for themselves. There’s really nothing else to compare it to besides now that the coa is out but it’s super new.

@@KingNate_85 I like it a lot but if I did it again I would’ve just bought black and spray painted it when I was ready.

@@SethV0812 Yes it is.

@@chaos-jp7nt I like to

Dial works fine

@@SSAe2 I personally don’t buy and don’t recommend fake life saving products.

@ well then you are a jackass

@@2AToday I got the rattler because I already have a 11.5” 5.56 rifle. If I would’ve gotten the 9”, when they’re both suppressed they would’ve been the same length which is like having the same exact gun with only slight differences like the spear lt having a folding stock and shooting quieter if using subsonic rounds. Seemed stupid to me to have 2 guns so similar even though the 9” would perform better velocity wise than the rattler. I wanted to diversify my arsenal and not have similar guns that could be used for the same purpose. The purpose of the rattler for me was home defense and a bag gun using subsonic rounds. My 11.5 fits more into cqb to mid range role. I also wanted the shortest package possible to an extent. I could’ve gotten the original rattler which is even shorter but I’ve seen it keyhole at like 25 yards, maybe a little longer which almost makes it worthless, really limiting the subsonic round. The rattler lt was supposed to fix some of the issues of the rattler, that being one. The 11.5” 5.56 ar15 and a 9” 300 black with super sonic rounds have similar trajectory and bullet velocity. I don’t make enough money to have multiples of each other, if I buy something it has to have a goal or purpose. The barrel length was the main reason. The spear lt and the rattler lt are the same feature wise I believe. One mistake I made was trying to save money using this stupid adapter kit instead of just buying the whole gun with the sig lower. 15 rounds in, it damaged my Geissele trigger. At some point in the future I want to buy the correct sig lower and swap aero lower with the adapter kit out. I appreciate you valuing my opinion, that means a lot. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have anything else. 🤝🏼👍🏼

@@GearAndGunsfantastic answer! I agree 100% and would take the same path as you. Regarding the trigger damage: you can remove the firing in safety latch from the spear LT and rattler LT. It won’t affect reliability and will make disassembly easier. It also will stop any damage to triggers. Just drive out the roll pin that holds the latch in place. Since the firing pin itself has a spring, there should not be any safety issue. For anyone reading this, i don’t know if the Virtus firing pin latch can be removed as well, only the LT

@ Thank you for that information. When I talked to sig they say they moved something on the bolt, not sure if it’s the firing pin latch or not but it’s supposed to make it better for other triggers. Didn’t seem to work out the way for me. But thanks for the input and sharing.

@@GearAndGunsit’s the firing pin latch. On the virtus the latch is built into the ‘lobe’ where the recoil spring attaches to the top of the bolt carrier, and this latch swings on a vertical axis. That’s why the virtus needed a special trigger, the hammer has to be long enough to knock this latch out of the way (the impact part is above the firing pin). On the LT, the latch is to the right of the firing pin if viewing the back of the bolt carrier held in front of you. This latch does not swing on a pin like the virtus, but instead is itself a piece of spring steel. It flexes along a horizontal axis. A vertical roll pin both holds it in place and acts as the fulcrum. You can drive this roll pin out of the bolt carrier and thus ‘delete’ the latch. There’s no downside. Sig includes it thanks to that cringey POS nutnfancy as well as frivolous lawsuits. It’s not needed-the firing pin spring prevents any issues. With the latch deleted, disassembly is a breeze and there will be ZERO issues or damage with any triggers ever.

Sig’s redesign of the latch ensures that all triggers will make the gun fire. And that’s true. But the latch is so stiff and, IMO, poorly designed (placement, geometry, force required, sharp edges, excessive friction) that it will cause severe wear and tear on the bcg and parts during disassembly, as well as damaging 3rd party triggers. As you found.

4th rule of gun safety, be sure of your target and whats around it. How you gonna do that in the dark without a light?

It is a bad lever specifically for the MCX. Brand is Parker mountain machine. Great company and products.

@ cool, I like that it’s bigger than the magpul. Thanks for the info brother

@@bradyb2233 It’s the Parker mountain machine BCD. Like the bad lever but for mcxs. This is the spear lt version. Bad levers don’t work.

@@bradyb2233 ruclips.net/video/lRpdKmY6Udw/видео.htmlsi=OaFA3fkHVudUF-tb Here’s a video on it

@@GearAndGunsyou know if this will work for the canebrake?

@@MenoProductions Yes the material is the same. It’s a hardened rubber.

@@scotthambrick1475 Briley 3 Gun Mlok 13” Hand guard.

@@alexuram5984 I switched to a top mount because I saw that’s what everyone else was doing and I thought it would be better. After training with it I released I didn’t like it. None of my face was touching the stock at all so recoil control was more difficult, the height over bore for the aimpoint t2 on top was like 4.75 inches which was ridiculous, had to hold over a lot up close which I didn’t like as well. The only benefits I see to a top mounted red dot is for use with night vision which I don’t have, and a heads up shooting position. If I kept this system I was going to switch back to the offset. It’s a lot easier overall, controlling recoil was easier, and simply rotating the rifle to see your red dot was easier instead of moving your head up. Go with the offset red dot like you want. I had a unity fast mount and I swapped it out for a 1.93, I thought the unity was too tall as well. The unity fast was designed for close quarters combat and night vision. Rooftopdefense.com is where I got all of my badger ordnance. They had a ton of their stuff in stock when badger ordnance themselves didn’t. Looks like they’re 30mm 1.70” mounts are out of stock but they’re 34mm 1.70” mounts are in stock. You can join their mailing waitlist and others to get a back in stock notifications. There are good company. You have to get the 1.70” mount or higher to use the offset. I recommend the 1.70” height, I think it’s the best happy medium for that setup. If you went with a top mount then I’d maybe do the 1.54” so the height over bore is smaller. Here’s is a link to one of my videos where I talk about the badger ordnance mount/ top dot and the unity fast if you’re interested: Best Optic Height For Your AR15/Rifle. 1.42, 1.57, 1.70/.75, 1.93, 2.26, 2.93” Pros And Cons Explain ruclips.net/video/RMC1IySZpPU/видео.html I talk about the pros and cons to the heights, height over bore and why I switched away from them. I think the best overall “do it all” optic setup is what you mentioned. Lpvo with offset red dot. Badger ordnance 1.70” with their j arm is awesome, I loved it. I hated to sell mine but unfortunately it was a bit too complicated and time consuming to learn and get good at/stay consistently good at. I switched to the acog ta02 where I will have an offset red dot but also be testing the top mounted red dot on that as well. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

@@trentcampbell2388 Thank you. Glad you like yours. I really appreciate that! 🤝🏼

@@Az2FL Yes it is, it’s the 1.93 height.

@@GearAndGunshow do you like it? You’re the first channel I’ve seen using one. I’ve been waiting over a year for them to drop their leap 16

@ Yes I do. Every scalarworks mount I’ve used is fantastic, they make great products and optical mounts. Some of the best mounts in the 2a industry. This is my first magnifier mount I’ve used from them but I’ve used lots of their optic mounts and they’re great. I think I like the lever quick detach more than the turn dial ratcheting system but that’s just a small personal preference, doesn’t really matter. Their mounts are supposed to return to zero when taken off and put back on. In regard to 1.93 or 1.57, either is fine. I want to get more time on the 1.57. If your eotech is already at 1.57, you can stay with that. I started at the 1.57, went to 2.26, back down to 1.93 and now I’m wanting to return to get more time on the 1.57. The leap 16 looks slightly different because it’s mounted at a 45° angle which is cool. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

@ thanks for all the info! I have a aimpoint comp on a 1.93 leap and it’s been a long wait for a mag mount that isn’t a bunch of spacers

@ No problem. Happy to help. This should work great for that, I understand. I don’t like spacers either.

@@44trem No problem. Happy to help 👍🏼

@@DP-jaja ✝️🙏🏼

@@mattofjax They should both be the same crispness. This may vary person to person depending on their preference or how it looks through their eyes. I don’t think one is worse than the other in this regard.

@@Albuqrazy I would say yes. It would look like a hand stop at that point. Most vertical grips are like minimum 3-4” long. This vertical grip can actually be used on pistols though because it’s slightly slanted and doesn’t make a 90° angle at the hand guard.

@@GearAndGuns what I want to do is take a 90 degree vertical grip and chop it shoot, even to an even 1 inch. We’ll see. But I did read just a moment ago online that the ATF says along with the 90 it’s gotta be enough for a “full” hand grip. Well I’ll have the 90 but not a full hand grip lol. So technically I think I shall be ok, I hope. Thank you for sharing you’re insight with me, I appreciate it boss 🫡 just subbed. I like those 88.9 bcm’s, get under their skin! Haha.

@ Yeah that should be fine if you chop it an inch. I would cut it as short as you can while still being able to clamp it the way you want to. No problem, happy to help. Thank you, I appreciate that. Yeah these slanted bcm grips are awesome. A lot of people cut these down about an inch as well.

Glad to hear that. No problem. Happy to help 👍🏼