Lubricating the Sig Sauer MCX Rattler LT

In this video I’ll show you how to lubricate/oil your sig Sauer MCX rattler lt upper. If you want to see how to lubricate the lower I have another ar15 oiling video for that. This will work for your sig MCX virtus, spear lt, and original rattler.

[@bradyb2233]

What is that on your bolt catch. looks like a BAD lever but not.

[@2AToday]

It is a bad lever specifically for the MCX. Brand is Parker mountain machine. Great company and products.

[@bradyb2233]

@ cool, I like that it’s bigger than the magpul. Thanks for the info brother

[@GearAndGuns]

@@bradyb2233 It’s the Parker mountain machine BCD. Like the bad lever but for mcxs. This is the spear lt version. Bad levers don’t work.

[@GearAndGuns]

@@bradyb2233 ruclips.net/video/lRpdKmY6Udw/видео.htmlsi=OaFA3fkHVudUF-tb
Here’s a video on it

[@PerFecTD0P3B01]

@@GearAndGunsyou know if this will work for the canebrake?

[@2AToday]

Before you bought this, what was your thought process on getting the rattler vs the pistol version with a barrel length of a few more inches? Was the deciding factor having a barrel that is absolutely as short as possible? Or some other feature differences the rattler has? I value your personal opinion!

[@GearAndGuns]

@@2AToday I got the rattler because I already have a 11.5” 5.56 rifle. If I would’ve gotten the 9”, when they’re both suppressed they would’ve been the same length which is like having the same exact gun with only slight differences like the spear lt having a folding stock and shooting quieter if using subsonic rounds. Seemed stupid to me to have 2 guns so similar even though the 9” would perform better velocity wise than the rattler. I wanted to diversify my arsenal and not have similar guns that could be used for the same purpose. The purpose of the rattler for me was home defense and a bag gun using subsonic rounds. My 11.5 fits more into cqb to mid range role. I also wanted the shortest package possible to an extent. I could’ve gotten the original rattler which is even shorter but I’ve seen it keyhole at like 25 yards, maybe a little longer which almost makes it worthless, really limiting the subsonic round. The rattler lt was supposed to fix some of the issues of the rattler, that being one. The 11.5” 5.56 ar15 and a 9” 300 black with super sonic rounds have similar trajectory and bullet velocity. I don’t make enough money to have multiples of each other, if I buy something it has to have a goal or purpose. The barrel length was the main reason. The spear lt and the rattler lt are the same feature wise I believe. One mistake I made was trying to save money using this stupid adapter kit instead of just buying the whole gun with the sig lower. 15 rounds in, it damaged my Geissele trigger. At some point in the future I want to buy the correct sig lower and swap aero lower with the adapter kit out. I appreciate you valuing my opinion, that means a lot. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have anything else. 🤝🏼👍🏼

[@2AToday]

@@GearAndGunsfantastic answer! I agree 100% and would take the same path as you. Regarding the trigger damage: you can remove the firing in safety latch from the spear LT and rattler LT. It won’t affect reliability and will make disassembly easier. It also will stop any damage to triggers. Just drive out the roll pin that holds the latch in place. Since the firing pin itself has a spring, there should not be any safety issue. For anyone reading this, i don’t know if the Virtus firing pin latch can be removed as well, only the LT

[@GearAndGuns]

@ Thank you for that information. When I talked to sig they say they moved something on the bolt, not sure if it’s the firing pin latch or not but it’s supposed to make it better for other triggers. Didn’t seem to work out the way for me. But thanks for the input and sharing.

[@2AToday]

@@GearAndGunsit’s the firing pin latch. On the virtus the latch is built into the ‘lobe’ where the recoil spring attaches to the top of the bolt carrier, and this latch swings on a vertical axis. That’s why the virtus needed a special trigger, the hammer has to be long enough to knock this latch out of the way (the impact part is above the firing pin). On the LT, the latch is to the right of the firing pin if viewing the back of the bolt carrier held in front of you. This latch does not swing on a pin like the virtus, but instead is itself a piece of spring steel. It flexes along a horizontal axis. A vertical roll pin both holds it in place and acts as the fulcrum. You can drive this roll pin out of the bolt carrier and thus ‘delete’ the latch. There’s no downside. Sig includes it thanks to that cringey POS nutnfancy as well as frivolous lawsuits. It’s not needed-the firing pin spring prevents any issues. With the latch deleted, disassembly is a breeze and there will be ZERO issues or damage with any triggers ever.

[@2AToday]

Sig’s redesign of the latch ensures that all triggers will make the gun fire. And that’s true. But the latch is so stiff and, IMO, poorly designed (placement, geometry, force required, sharp edges, excessive friction) that it will cause severe wear and tear on the bcg and parts during disassembly, as well as damaging 3rd party triggers. As you found.