As someone who has been EDCing short guns like krinks for years and have tried every option under the sun (even some home brew stuff), this video resonates with me. Since the surefire pro body and arisaka mlok mounts came out, it single handedly kicked everything else to the curb. ALL (and I mean all) cantilever scout pattern mounts are garbage. Absolutely would never trust them given how fragile they are. Had multiple versions either bend or snap and seen even more from others. You simply can't get the arisaka pro mounts to fail during normal abuse. Clicky caps are the way. I tried a good handful of pressure pads and for one reason or another, I just was not a fan. Even on short guns, it's not hard to run the clicky cap and it's just more reliable and less prone of getting damaged. You do NOT want to run those inline mounts past the handguard. arisaka warns of this as it's very easy to have those mounts snap. Seen it happen multiple times (and on other versions as-well like the haley thorntails) The TRA scout (not pro) mount is also very fragile in that it bends easily. Even TRA shows this in one of their promotional videos with the pro. While not optimal for your setup, you could run the WML on the 12 o'clock position and run a tapeswitch down. It casts the shadow directly downwards and sits a good bit over the bore to help reduce that shadow. I personally don't like 12 o'clock mounts for most rifles. The Modlite PDW350 was designed for this role, but you can use regular scout/pro bodies as the same. For tape switches, the unity gas cap and axon seems to be the best switch ecosystem on the market right now. regular MB and MBL have some serious issues with just dying. Modlite and Unity blame surefire and surefire blames unity. For the scout hinge mounts, I own a few (bobro, overbore, monstrum, etc) and while they work, they just don't compare the the surefire pro hinge system as like you said, it doesn't tuck in as nicely and you still have the failure point of the 2 screw design). Meteorite concepts released their own version that takes some inspiration for the predecessors. Unity sells/sold a direct mlok to scout pattern mount. Similar to the arisaka inline you have, but doesn't cantilever. But yeah, my opinion (not like you asked) is pretty decent given what you have and given how you don't want to push past your (albeit long) muzzle device. When you decide to push the light out more, the arisaka (not TRA) pro picatinny mount would be the direction I'd go as it will put the light in about the same spot, just an inch or so further forward. That or go with a longer handguard as that just makes everything simpler.
@@GldenRetriever Forgot to mention the Arisaka pro mounts, those do look a lot more durable. I prefer to use the tail cap push button as well for the reasons you stated but I’d have to use a switch if I pushed the light out farther towards the end of the suppressor.
@@GldenRetriever PDW 350 is a good option. Didn’t know about that. My light is pretty much at 12 o’clock now but that’s a good option too. Interesting to hear about the MB issues. They just stop working? What’s better about the gas cap and axon? Thank you for that information.
@@GldenRetriever Didn’t want to do a longer hand guard even though it would be better because of my suppressor being a quick detach and not a direct thread. Although since it’s living on there it wouldn’t really matter if it stays on. That arisaka pro picatinny is a good recommendation as it would make it slightly easier to push the button and not adjust my hand as much. I really appreciate your input, advice, experience, and information on this matter. This was really helpful and I’m going to pin your comment because I think it would help a lot of other people too. Thank you 🤝🏼🙏🏼
If you want an even further extended mount, try the ELM from Reform arms, some of our team use it and it is an incredible light mount, especially for kicking your light out to avoid shadow and make activation simple!
@@ModliteSystems Thank you for that information and sharing! Haven’t seen that before but man that thing is extended for sure lol. Definitely another good option. Great for hand guards like this. Hard to find all the options but that was helpful thank you 👍🏼🤝🏼
Great video brother. Something I think people should keep in mind too, there's a very fine line with pressure switches. You want it to be in a comfortable spot that meets your grip easily, but you also don't want it to be a hazard for an ND with momentary. Sometimes it's better, in terms of operational safety, to have it in a slightly more difficult position purposefully, so that it takes a deliberate movement to activate that ensures no ND. I have white light ND trauma, so take it from a dude who white light ND'd on a night stealth patrol while operating oversees and luckily did not ruin the whole mission , but everyone looked at me like I was a jackass for that, which i was. I like the Hot Button because it takes just a little extra but not too much to activate, a nice balance. That top mounted solution is sick tho, I would do that if I didn't have the LAM
@@guitarthrasher81 Thank you brother. That is a good point I forgot to mention. I agree, it’s important not to have a light or mount something in a certain way that can easily nd. Operational safety is more important for sure. ND or AD can be very serious and get people killed or compromise a mission so I completely understand the severity of it, especially in a situation like you described. I like the hot button too, great switch, has the little bit of added resistance which is well thought out. Having the surefire momentary between the hand guard and the rail could potentially cause that but I think it would fit in there just right to where it’s not a risk. Can’t say for sure without testing it, if it was a problem I’d just switch it to the top. Most of the options I stated I would be comfortable with using because they need deliberately pushed. Lasers are important so I understand prioritizing that. Could always mount the switch behind it, or do a side choice. I hope this helped give a solution if you were looking for one. Thank you for your service 🤝🏼🫡
@ Yeah it works pretty well for a cheaper option not having to buy switches and different tail caps and all. Wish it was like an inch farther forward though.
@@OneLowPony That’s awesome dude. Great choice. I’m not sure when it will be back in stock. I don’t see one specifically made for the rattler Lt. Only for the spear lt. I would assume it would work but with this suppressor, the hand guard would cover the suppressor locking mechanism. Which specific one are you referring to? Thank you man!
@@GearAndGuns google this SKU number from sig. it will bring you to the site and show you that it is specifically built for the rattler Lt. it is currently out of stock though. SKU: 8901326
As someone who has been EDCing short guns like krinks for years and have tried every option under the sun (even some home brew stuff), this video resonates with me.
Since the surefire pro body and arisaka mlok mounts came out, it single handedly kicked everything else to the curb. ALL (and I mean all) cantilever scout pattern mounts are garbage. Absolutely would never trust them given how fragile they are. Had multiple versions either bend or snap and seen even more from others. You simply can't get the arisaka pro mounts to fail during normal abuse.
Clicky caps are the way. I tried a good handful of pressure pads and for one reason or another, I just was not a fan. Even on short guns, it's not hard to run the clicky cap and it's just more reliable and less prone of getting damaged.
You do NOT want to run those inline mounts past the handguard. arisaka warns of this as it's very easy to have those mounts snap. Seen it happen multiple times (and on other versions as-well like the haley thorntails) The TRA scout (not pro) mount is also very fragile in that it bends easily. Even TRA shows this in one of their promotional videos with the pro.
While not optimal for your setup, you could run the WML on the 12 o'clock position and run a tapeswitch down. It casts the shadow directly downwards and sits a good bit over the bore to help reduce that shadow. I personally don't like 12 o'clock mounts for most rifles. The Modlite PDW350 was designed for this role, but you can use regular scout/pro bodies as the same. For tape switches, the unity gas cap and axon seems to be the best switch ecosystem on the market right now. regular MB and MBL have some serious issues with just dying. Modlite and Unity blame surefire and surefire blames unity.
For the scout hinge mounts, I own a few (bobro, overbore, monstrum, etc) and while they work, they just don't compare the the surefire pro hinge system as like you said, it doesn't tuck in as nicely and you still have the failure point of the 2 screw design). Meteorite concepts released their own version that takes some inspiration for the predecessors.
Unity sells/sold a direct mlok to scout pattern mount. Similar to the arisaka inline you have, but doesn't cantilever.
But yeah, my opinion (not like you asked) is pretty decent given what you have and given how you don't want to push past your (albeit long) muzzle device. When you decide to push the light out more, the arisaka (not TRA) pro picatinny mount would be the direction I'd go as it will put the light in about the same spot, just an inch or so further forward. That or go with a longer handguard as that just makes everything simpler.
@@GldenRetriever Forgot to mention the Arisaka pro mounts, those do look a lot more durable. I prefer to use the tail cap push button as well for the reasons you stated but I’d have to use a switch if I pushed the light out farther towards the end of the suppressor.
@@GldenRetriever Yes I understand you’re not supposed to run the scout mounts past the hand guard. Forgot to mention that as well.
@@GldenRetriever PDW 350 is a good option. Didn’t know about that. My light is pretty much at 12 o’clock now but that’s a good option too. Interesting to hear about the MB issues. They just stop working? What’s better about the gas cap and axon? Thank you for that information.
@@GldenRetriever I understand what you mean about the scout mounts not being as good. I didn’t realize it was such a big deal with failures.
@@GldenRetriever Didn’t want to do a longer hand guard even though it would be better because of my suppressor being a quick detach and not a direct thread. Although since it’s living on there it wouldn’t really matter if it stays on. That arisaka pro picatinny is a good recommendation as it would make it slightly easier to push the button and not adjust my hand as much. I really appreciate your input, advice, experience, and information on this matter. This was really helpful and I’m going to pin your comment because I think it would help a lot of other people too. Thank you 🤝🏼🙏🏼
Someone who actually explains logic behind owning and or wanting one of these. Good video!
@@ItsChrisFPS Thanks brother. Much appreciated 🤝🏼
Sweet build
@@aaronvargas3580 Thank you
If you want an even further extended mount, try the ELM from Reform arms, some of our team use it and it is an incredible light mount, especially for kicking your light out to avoid shadow and make activation simple!
@@ModliteSystems Thank you for that information and sharing! Haven’t seen that before but man that thing is extended for sure lol. Definitely another good option. Great for hand guards like this. Hard to find all the options but that was helpful thank you 👍🏼🤝🏼
I’m also running the mod button with a surefire right now and love how it works man.
@@OneLowPony That’s awesome, where’s your mod button mounted? Sounds like a good setup.
@ I’m running it on the top picatiny rail. Maybe I’ll do a video tonight and upload it to show you what I am running.
@ I know what you mean. That’s a solid setup. How do you like the mod button?
@ it’s a solid setup and I don’t mind the light only being on while I hold the button.
@ Glad you’re liking it.
Great video brother. Something I think people should keep in mind too, there's a very fine line with pressure switches. You want it to be in a comfortable spot that meets your grip easily, but you also don't want it to be a hazard for an ND with momentary. Sometimes it's better, in terms of operational safety, to have it in a slightly more difficult position purposefully, so that it takes a deliberate movement to activate that ensures no ND. I have white light ND trauma, so take it from a dude who white light ND'd on a night stealth patrol while operating oversees and luckily did not ruin the whole mission , but everyone looked at me like I was a jackass for that, which i was. I like the Hot Button because it takes just a little extra but not too much to activate, a nice balance. That top mounted solution is sick tho, I would do that if I didn't have the LAM
@@guitarthrasher81 Thank you brother. That is a good point I forgot to mention. I agree, it’s important not to have a light or mount something in a certain way that can easily nd. Operational safety is more important for sure. ND or AD can be very serious and get people killed or compromise a mission so I completely understand the severity of it, especially in a situation like you described. I like the hot button too, great switch, has the little bit of added resistance which is well thought out. Having the surefire momentary between the hand guard and the rail could potentially cause that but I think it would fit in there just right to where it’s not a risk. Can’t say for sure without testing it, if it was a problem I’d just switch it to the top. Most of the options I stated I would be comfortable with using because they need deliberately pushed. Lasers are important so I understand prioritizing that. Could always mount the switch behind it, or do a side choice. I hope this helped give a solution if you were looking for one. Thank you for your service 🤝🏼🫡
@@GearAndGuns Thanks bro. Yeah the surefire tail cap at the position is literally perfect
@ Yeah it works pretty well for a cheaper option not having to buy switches and different tail caps and all. Wish it was like an inch farther forward though.
Have the same Rattler LT and SOCOM 300 SPS man. When do you think sig will have the extended rail back in stock? Great build man!
@@OneLowPony That’s awesome dude. Great choice. I’m not sure when it will be back in stock. I don’t see one specifically made for the rattler Lt. Only for the spear lt. I would assume it would work but with this suppressor, the hand guard would cover the suppressor locking mechanism. Which specific one are you referring to? Thank you man!
@@GearAndGuns google this SKU number from sig. it will bring you to the site and show you that it is specifically built for the rattler Lt. it is currently out of stock though. SKU: 8901326